วีดีโอ

Using the correct factory Jaguar tool in 30years never had a head not come off. No broken studs.

Thanks. My son and I are putting together a xjs your videos or very helpful

And the best part is: IT'S THE LEAST EXPENSIVE FUEL ADDITIVE ON THE MARKET!!!

Is it possible to cut access holes behind the rear seat to remove the calipers?

I just picked up 1988 jaguar xjs. I’m going to need your information and knowledge Think you sir

try Yenmak liners

what i did was a cap full of dishwashing liquid after a flush then drove it for a hr or so with NO thermostates in it so it flows (cut old thermos so no butterfly ) then back flushed it out multi times the rust that came out was amazing rinse and repeat 3 times then put new thremos in and refiled and after that it stayed cold ( used lower temp thermos aswell ) other thing is check timeing and advance on it as some times they over advance and cause heat end game was a recore of radiator with a closer core (more fins ) point was the amount of crap it pulled out was amazing and re did it after new radiator and it pulled out even more then from bottom of the block

Super solid sturdy rear end location 👍👍😎

Fantastic work Bob like your attitude its a credit to you

Thank you for the clear and concise description and reasons for your actions. I learned a lot from this video. Now to put this knowledge to work! 👍

Very informative and usefull video, thank you very much

You really love the XJS so do l

Bob, you are as a nuclear reactor. I doubt I ever do this. I will email.

I had a similar problem on my v12 II series . It had never been open since 1977. Tried to remove the head with the plate. Lift 15mm then no more move. I cut the 10 long studs and the head is out ok. But now what shall i do to remove the studs parts from the block??? tried different solutions but nothing worked .

Need a manifolds for webers for v12 group 44 replica that i am building can you help 😊😊

It really is great that Enthusiasts are keeping these wonderful cars alive as they left the factory (Or better then factory in some respects) in all their glory. That harness looks top notch. And with all the rascals that happen to love chewing on wires, it's a welcomed addition to our rebuilds & maintenance of these fine cars.

Cat Call

Looking forward to the video(s) on electroplating, Bob!

You can get an air pump delete idler pulley from Simply Performance in the UK. I used to go the extra mile when I did these. I tapped the intake manifold and red loctited grub screws in the holes, then used normal intake manifold washers on the nuts. It was a good excuse to replace the intake gaskets! 😁

Would putting some anti size on the studs or heat shrink tubing on help prevent head to corrosion to studs???

You do know you can prime it with the control settings, you’ll have to do it often when you run out of diesel.

Good work Bob. Six years ago my wife and I lived aboard a 46 ft sport fisher on Chesapeake Bay and used a similar unit to keep the boat toasty in the winter. Loved it. I should put one in the trunk of the Jag to preheat the interior before leaving for work in the morning and returning home in the evening. LoL.

Great to have this diversity of topics… ‘cause you never know what life may throw at you.

Thanks for sharing your experience

I love that the heater is installed in an outside metal cabinet. Worst case the outside of your ambulance catches on fire which is much better than the inside.

Good morning Bob,, nice work. Very interesting piece, may install one in the garage.. do you smell any diesel fumes from the burn?

I put one of these in my double garage last year and I can say they are excellent heaters, it takes just a few minutes to heat the whole garage and I then run it on the lowest setting and it burns next to no diesel.

That's a decent install. I may have to investigate for my VW T2 👍🏼

❤ That Intake.

Very good video. My father's 89 XJ-S HE has been in storage for 12 years. It starts every year, no problem. It does sometimes idle roughly but soon settles down. It was previously well maintained.

What are your thoughts on a rear main seal leak on a V12? Is it always due to a clogged PCV breather filter? I replaced the filter and changed the breather setup for a slightly higher vacuum to the crankcase. The car still leaks tiny amounts of oil from the RMS. Should I replace the hockey seals, I would prefer not removing the crankshaft to change the rope seals. (The car has 40,000 miles on it and runs well)

G'day Bob, do you have a multi v alternator pulley, and a Marelli style harmonic damper available? I am converting my XJ-S to the Ole Mobek EFI/ECU system and need both to allow a crank position sensor to be fitted. Much appreciated, Chris

Door lock actuators are not coordinated. They're sending conflicting signals.

The car is looking great Bob. Well done! I'll have to look up Bell Exhaust and see if they have a system for the S1 V12 XJ. Looking forward to the next video. Happy Thanksgiving.

Bob, great to hear that you are 100% cleared.. nothing worse than those visits... You have to hire more people, i know,,i know, impossible. But keep looking, high school kids in a apprenticeship program possibly?? Mine isn't a convertible, or newer model, but I had lock kick outs because one of the door switches.. also don't forget ignition switch. Is the trunk,, or door light's on, or the ignition switch buzzer acting up? Also those solenoids have an internal max travel switch.

So glad to hear you are feeling good and gearing up for some videos. I am hem hawing about and need to get a few things up and going (Broken cars!) which will allow me to source a XJS V-12. Still think it would make a magical sound with an exhaust system on it. On your machine problem, I bet there is someone who can sort that out. I worked with my Converter company and they were great. Just FYI, I run multiple machines on one convertor, just have to be careful not to start them simultaneously. Thank you for the work videos, love to watch them and learn (dream!) about these cars. Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family!

The intro and outro music volume levels are much better. The last 15 seconds of you talking was the only place it got hard to hear. Glad you've been a good kind of busy. Enjoyed the tour.

The door lock solenoid or the door Lock key S/w is out of adjustment

I see an XJ-SC targa! The only car I ever bought twice. (Yes, the identical car. Still looking to find it again.)

Glad to hear your health is good! What are the wings one the shop wall? Stearman?

What material did you clean the injector with?

Interesting exercise.

Like mail call.

Wow ! A box of good stuff.

GDI support ?

Great job on the review. My son swears by this stuff. He says it's the best. It straightened out their 94' Corvette perfectly. Thanks for the video

Bob, I love the videos. I've had two XJS's. First was a rare Hess & Eisenhardt convertible. Now I've got a 1991 Convertible (factory) with the the full AJ6 Plus Torque and exhaust modifications. I solved my Marelli problem after one bank quit. Luckily I caught it before burning up. It happens due to a failure inside the distributor, and can be an ultra simple fix. I will use your video guides when I rebuild mine and add the 5 speed manual. Thanks so much for taking the rebuild videos, it's a gold mine of wisdom for these very special old cars

Great information, thank you

Hello Rob, Thanks a lot for the review of my Harness Prototype. Looking forward to seeing it running on one of your engines soon. Don`t be afraid to bend it in the reinforced area between the main connector and the first branching point. I did several torture tests with the first prototype, and it handled a lot of abuse without issues. And yes, you are correct about the connectors. Only the main connector is 3D printed out of reinforced nylon and converts the harness to a circular shape with a strain relief lip. The EV1 connectors are from Tyco (made in the USA). The yellow cap’s purpose is simply to keep dirt and dust out of the connectors until ready to be plugged in. The other "Beta Tester" reported good results and is very happy with the performance of the engine now. Sale will start in about 3 weeks with 3 sleeving options. DR-25 "race-spec inspired" as shown by you, Green Nomex high temp sleeving for an extra slim and sleek professional look and HFT5000 for a more textured appearance than DR-25. Of course, all components used on the harness including the used TEFZEL wire have a minimum continuous temp rating of 150°C. So you can look forward to decades of trouble free operation. It is designed as a "lifetime" harness. The Price is not final yet, but expect it to match SNG price for a, as mentioned by you, a much superior and fully shielded product. Andreas / AE Engineering AE-Engineering@bluewin. ch

Hello, is there any way to buy AE engineering cables, I am from Germany Bavaria and would like one of these.