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Do you gonna upload again?

Thank you

Maybe the material is stuck there..

At 7:54, the spacers mic out the same. If so, then the larger spacer would be floating. The bearing inner race width is usually wider than the outside race by at least a few thou anyway. I don't understand the larger spacers function in that assy. I would think that it would preload the bearing races when torquing the cap down. Or is that the design of that "spindle assembly"? I have no spindle experience. Just trying to grasp it all. Thanks Great video by the way. Part numbers, grease volumes to boot.

Good idea getting some sealed bearings on hand, as well as drilling those holes. If you have sealed bearings next time, you should try heating them up before installing. How have those bearings been holding up? Thanks for the video.

I just took my knife apart yesterday to clean and adjust, and once again marveled at this design and the beautiful machining. Such a special, special creation, thanks for all the attention you put into it and sharing how you put this all together. This knife will never leave my collection!

Sorry my Friend Where can buy this Spindle and show me the name size, please?

Where did you purchase the bearings from and how have they faired?

do you still make knives?

Nice job are the new NSK bearing holding up still ?

ISO

I suggest you start with NOT USING WATER!! That is, unless you want to start a thermite reaction and burn your shop to the ground. ANYONE WATCHING THIS MORON AND THINKING ABOUT TRYING THIS, PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, DO NOT DO THIS NEAR ANY WATER! THE CONSEQUENCES CAN BE LETHAL!

Nice job! How’s this spindle holding up? I wish I could get on for my pcnc1100 it would be awesome to have a 30 taper.

Just rebuilt my spindle today with your help, so thank you! My machine was cutting good parts but the whining noise was driving my coworkers crazy. My lower bearings were still fine, the top of my upper bearings looked like it had a little contamination/corrosion. Just finished the break-in and the noise level is way, way better. Hopefully it will last another couple years.

CSC = German bearing manufacurer

A tile saw blade will not cut you unless you get your hand (finger) wedged in the blade or push at the blade very hard!

Very good video, we have cnc router router that we had to replace the spindle on last year, different configuration but i would assume the working principles are the same, what happen it just got to where it would move over the tool to make too make a change, push down to load the tool and stop, it was like the gripper would not close down on the tool Itself, thoroughly cleaned and lubricated the grippers but got the same result, re cycled the machine while it was over the tool in the load postion I gave a tap wlth a dead blow hammer and picked up the tool. I would assume that there are some type of spring or connical washer either broken or sticking. called around most spindle rebuider's where telling me that between 8and 14k to rebuild. I actully purchased a used one off ebay and has worked fine , thought bout just tearing into the old one and attempting to do the repair or rebuild myself, just dont think it could be that complicated, i have a lot of experince rebuilding other type's of machine spindles for example moulders and shaper's.

super cheap and crappy design of these spindles I must say

Would have been nice to list the parts you used! And a link to Part 1...

See the video of robenz for greasing with kubler on taper bearing

they have tested it with 10000 rmp . the result is clearly visible,, spindles should run in an oil bath like on engines,,

8000RMP grease will be thrown out,,I don't understand how they make spindles like that,,anyone with rotation in their head can see that it won't be there very long

Why don't you just program the table to move taller parts out of the way of the spindle before doing a tool change, you may have to manually add it to the program but it would just be adding one extra rapid movement line such as a G00 X-7.0 before the tool change. Instead of using shoulder bolts for locating try using dowel pins, press fit on one part and a tight slip fit on the other.

Really nice work, fantastic finish

Not sure if I'm correct here but I would have just bored out the hole for the bearing and faced off all 4 sides of the tombstone on the machine again and I believe that would given you 4 perfectly level faces. correct?

Welds look fine to me 😊. My 440 needs filtration. Thank you for the tips.

Awesome!

Helped me again when I went to setup my 4th axis. Appreciate the work you put into these videos.

Given the limited amount of steel in the blade core, how do you recommend sharpening the interface so as not to sharpen away the all steel core itself? Just strop and only strop?

Angular contact bearings should have a continues force applied. It is best not to hammer on them but have a continues force (use a press or something similar). Note the < mark. This mark tells what wall force can be applied to. Make sure to calculate out the proper grease amount G=K*Gref. Check out SKF guide on initial bearing fill (it is based on bearing inner volume and rpm). Please don't put tape on the angular contact bearing. Also, make sure to break in the bearings slowly so the grease spreads evenly in addition to evenly distributing the grease when filling the bearing.

5:59 Measure one pin and set the caliper to INC. Now you can measure the diameter without the need to do calculations. 😊

You should convert to 5 barring and air oil. if you have clean air.

So I followed this video and replaced my old bearings with the ones you used. Spindle is immaculate. However now i am having trouble with spindle orientation.

Do you still make these?

Is the spindle still performing ? I thought I saw a FB thread somewhere that said you may be having it rebuilt by a professional rebuild center and at a much higher cost.

That’s amazing 😮

16:35 When having bearings in this arrangement it actually is quite important to torque them accordingly, that is specifically important for the longlivity of the bearings. If you put it too tight the stress on the bearing can easily become problematic, it's good that you were gentle. They should provide a spec

Someday I'll own one

*4:30** Nice knife, what is it?*

Please make a simple screw jack kind with a metal plate and 3 studs to remove or fix bearings onto the spindle shaft. Dont hammer

6:28 there is a P5 digits on the product code I can see, this probably means it is a P5 precision class bearings. P5 is the cheapest and the lowest quality for precision parameter. A P2 precision class is the most precise bearing, with nanometer-scale tolerances, you would have a runout of less than 1 micron on such bearings and a spindle would cost about 3k to 4k USD

I think it was necessary to grind the rings to achieve duplexing

good afternoon, can you please recommend some good literature on repairing and duplexing spindles?

Why are the painting falling of your machine ?

That’s I N S A N E

I rebuilt my spindle with the same bearings, but it never ran as nice as a stock spindle. I ran the rebuilt spindle for about a day, then ordered a new one f4om tormach. In my case, the rebuild wax an expensive waste of time, especially seeing how inexpensive a tormach spindle is.

As Stefan says, 'When you buy chinese, you are just buying a kit of parts'.

Just wondering how ths preload can be correct when you have the tape on outer bearing race face and not on the inner?

What type of epoxy do you bond the core with?

I did rebuilds on numerous spindles during my 26 years as a CNC tech on Mazak machines. The reason for the grease being thrown out of the bearing is that the bearing must be totally dry (no oil) before it is greased. The grease does not stick properly to the bearing if there is any oil present. I used to wash the bearings in an acetone bath before fitment.