Great job on the videos. Really like watching your 4th axis work on the tombstone. A quick tip that may help with the steps between passes on the tombstone facing. When facing, try using "both ways" in fusion. This will keep the tool down for the entire facing operation at the exact same Z height. Right now, you're relying on your Z axis repeating every pass which is a very difficult thing to ask of a machine in this case (your finger can pretty easily feel just 0.0005" deviation between passes). If you still feel the steps after trying that, it's likely the tram of your head which is pretty easy to adjust in. On a side note, I have been looking for someone with an 1100MX to compare some performance with on my small home brew CNC. Could you tell me what speeds/feeds you're running on those drop in T Nuts? I'd love to replicate the cut on my machine and compare some results
Thank you! I'm not sure about the both ways toolpath being better since there would be a difference in each cut, one being climb and one conventional, but it would be interesting to compare. There wasn't a detectable difference in height, just a small burr and only on the sides cut later on. The feeds and speeds for the contour path on the t-nuts were as follows: The tool is a uncoated 3/8" YG-1 Alu-power 3 flute carbide end mill with a 1 inch flute length. Hardest I could push it was 10k RPM, 120 in/min, .004" feed per tooth, .035" stepover, .8475" Depth of cut. Hope that helps.
@@vcedge9466 thank you very much for the cutting parameters. I actually have the same YG1 tool so I'll have to give those exact parameters a shot and see if maybe I can raise the WOC at all on my machine. As for the alternating conventional/climb cutting, you're definitely correct that you can see some different results in the passes. Considering most facing passes are done at >50% of the tool diameter and very shallow depths, I personally haven't noticed any difference between the passes. If you're getting good results the way you're doing it now, definitely no need to change it up!
@@vcedge9466 gave those a shot today with the same YG1 tool you had. Ended up getting to 0.85 DOC, 0.05 WOC and 250IPM. That was about 100% spindle load for me but absolutely no bogging down that I could hear so I'm guessing I could have probably pushed that width do around 0.065" with the same depth and feed. I really appreciate you sharing the parameters with me. Would you mind if i borrowed a clip from this video to use in mine to show the comparison? (Mentioning that it's your footage of course)
@@mpmachining7227 Yeah, that isn't surprising. You have a much more powerful motor and the tool is capable of using a lot. I don't mind if you use a clip, go right ahead.
I'd be interested to hear your long term experience with this coolant - I had heard it ate the paint, and increased corrosion. Hope it goes well for you
Ah, yes. That piece is there to keep the rod from tilting when it has pressure put on it and provide some extra rigidity for the vertical part. The single thin piece might have been ok but I wanted some extra material there to make sure it was solid.
Nice - but you're not using the telescoping gauge properly. It needs to go in and out at an angle, having been tightened as you tilt it through vertical.
I didn't show it much in the video and I didn't explain so It's hard to tell but I am actually doing that, except coming out just slightly over center. It's very slight since there isn't much depth to the bore on that part. It does take some practice either way. Thanks for bringing it up, that is the way.
@@vcedge9466 Aaah - good. I agree - it's a bit of a technique to get right, but once you know, it's very repeatable. And a whole lot cheaper than small dial bore gauge!
theres no need to change coolant. it is oily by default and any plastic will degrade over time. If you want to have gopro inside the machine make an aluminium case for it.
4thou of deflection at the spindle nose? that's stupidly high what kind of bearings are they using in their spindles? wondering if they cheated and used radial bearings rather than high precision angular contact bearings.
To be clear its not 4 thou deflection. That is the amount of clearance between the new spindle nose and the spindle. We know that it touched at 2 thou and at least part of that is from thermal expansion as well as deflection. I don't know exactly how much of each or what deflection other machines have on heavy cuts, it would be an interesting to find out though.
Awesome, love your videos man. Not sure if you had this problem with your machine but I have an 1100mx and the oiler system in the back doesn't bleed properly. Sometimes tools stick and pop in the spindle ans its really annoying. I've reached out to Tormach and they've actually had trouble with it themselves 😂
The Automatic oiler I have seems to be working just fine. I did have sticking tools like you described until I put a spacer under the drawbar bolt. Having that spacing closer fixed that issue. I also noticed that when I took the drawbar out that the O-rings were damaged so that might contribute as well.
I think I got this material from an ebay store. stonerstoolsandrawmaterials There might be less expensive ways to get stuff, like a local metal supply if you have one around.
Just not super lucky I guess🤷♂️. Although I suspect it's not just mine, browsing the forums you will hear about all kinds of different problems people have.
If I was only machining metals I would have probably stuck with the 251c that was in there. I'll look into it though. I'll have to see what other options there are for composites.
@@vcedge9466 266 I believe can handle CF. Call these guys. Tell'em Dustin sent you. coolantguy.com/index.html Ask for Daren or Dan. See a lot of people including close friends have issues with 735.
Just a thought here; when you bog the spindle motor from running it so hard, the armature current is going to skyrocket and that might melt the wire insulation or melt wires. It is not good for the spindle- life to run your machine to its limits like that. Your machine will lose accuracy and breakdown prematurely if you continue running the spindle motor into the ground. What's your hurry? They're cheapo t-slot nuts....... If, instead of a machine motor choking and almost dying, it was a person, I'd hope you'd listen to the warning signs. You might otherwise be a wonderful person and a superb programmer but it obviously wouldn't hurt if you'd use your ears to hear the death throes of your poor machinery. It's not wise to expect a 2 HP machine to perform the same as a 10 HP machine. If you'd pay attention to what your machine is telling you, it'd last 100 times as long and its accuracy would last equally long.
Yes, I don't normally run the machine like that. I'm aware that its not good for the motor etc. long term but this was a nice opportunity to see what it could handle so that I know where the limits are. Those cuts should have been within the 2hp based on my calculator but it couldn't quite do it, so now I know. Thank you for all the comments and concerns.
Another great video Jason. Thanks
Great video :)
Again - thanks for sharing
Great job on the videos. Really like watching your 4th axis work on the tombstone. A quick tip that may help with the steps between passes on the tombstone facing. When facing, try using "both ways" in fusion. This will keep the tool down for the entire facing operation at the exact same Z height. Right now, you're relying on your Z axis repeating every pass which is a very difficult thing to ask of a machine in this case (your finger can pretty easily feel just 0.0005" deviation between passes). If you still feel the steps after trying that, it's likely the tram of your head which is pretty easy to adjust in.
On a side note, I have been looking for someone with an 1100MX to compare some performance with on my small home brew CNC. Could you tell me what speeds/feeds you're running on those drop in T Nuts? I'd love to replicate the cut on my machine and compare some results
Thank you! I'm not sure about the both ways toolpath being better since there would be a difference in each cut, one being climb and one conventional, but it would be interesting to compare. There wasn't a detectable difference in height, just a small burr and only on the sides cut later on. The feeds and speeds for the contour path on the t-nuts were as follows: The tool is a uncoated 3/8" YG-1 Alu-power 3 flute carbide end mill with a 1 inch flute length. Hardest I could push it was 10k RPM, 120 in/min, .004" feed per tooth, .035" stepover, .8475" Depth of cut. Hope that helps.
@@vcedge9466 thank you very much for the cutting parameters. I actually have the same YG1 tool so I'll have to give those exact parameters a shot and see if maybe I can raise the WOC at all on my machine.
As for the alternating conventional/climb cutting, you're definitely correct that you can see some different results in the passes. Considering most facing passes are done at >50% of the tool diameter and very shallow depths, I personally haven't noticed any difference between the passes. If you're getting good results the way you're doing it now, definitely no need to change it up!
@@vcedge9466 gave those a shot today with the same YG1 tool you had. Ended up getting to 0.85 DOC, 0.05 WOC and 250IPM. That was about 100% spindle load for me but absolutely no bogging down that I could hear so I'm guessing I could have probably pushed that width do around 0.065" with the same depth and feed. I really appreciate you sharing the parameters with me. Would you mind if i borrowed a clip from this video to use in mine to show the comparison? (Mentioning that it's your footage of course)
@@mpmachining7227 Yeah, that isn't surprising. You have a much more powerful motor and the tool is capable of using a lot. I don't mind if you use a clip, go right ahead.
I'd be interested to hear your long term experience with this coolant - I had heard it ate the paint, and increased corrosion. Hope it goes well for you
It does eat it
Cool video. I was wondering, why does the tailstock have the small vertical piece bolted to the big part of the tailstock? Ciao, Marco.
Ah, yes. That piece is there to keep the rod from tilting when it has pressure put on it and provide some extra rigidity for the vertical part. The single thin piece might have been ok but I wanted some extra material there to make sure it was solid.
@@vcedge9466 Make sense. Thanks Jay.
Nice - but you're not using the telescoping gauge properly. It needs to go in and out at an angle, having been tightened as you tilt it through vertical.
I didn't show it much in the video and I didn't explain so It's hard to tell but I am actually doing that, except coming out just slightly over center. It's very slight since there isn't much depth to the bore on that part. It does take some practice either way. Thanks for bringing it up, that is the way.
@@vcedge9466 Aaah - good. I agree - it's a bit of a technique to get right, but once you know, it's very repeatable. And a whole lot cheaper than small dial bore gauge!
nice !!!
theres no need to change coolant. it is oily by default and any plastic will degrade over time. If you want to have gopro inside the machine make an aluminium case for it.
4thou of deflection at the spindle nose? that's stupidly high what kind of bearings are they using in their spindles? wondering if they cheated and used radial bearings rather than high precision angular contact bearings.
To be clear its not 4 thou deflection. That is the amount of clearance between the new spindle nose and the spindle. We know that it touched at 2 thou and at least part of that is from thermal expansion as well as deflection. I don't know exactly how much of each or what deflection other machines have on heavy cuts, it would be an interesting to find out though.
Awesome, love your videos man. Not sure if you had this problem with your machine but I have an 1100mx and the oiler system in the back doesn't bleed properly. Sometimes tools stick and pop in the spindle ans its really annoying. I've reached out to Tormach and they've actually had trouble with it themselves 😂
The Automatic oiler I have seems to be working just fine. I did have sticking tools like you described until I put a spacer under the drawbar bolt. Having that spacing closer fixed that issue. I also noticed that when I took the drawbar out that the O-rings were damaged so that might contribute as well.
where do you buy your aluminum stock from? Thanks :)
I think I got this material from an ebay store. stonerstoolsandrawmaterials There might be less expensive ways to get stuff, like a local metal supply if you have one around.
what size vise is that?
Decrease your depth of cut and use more passes when slotting. Other than that, nice work.
I heard the better option is to reduce optimal load, width of cut, and a keep a deep depth of cut. Less tool pressure, and greater tool life.
Why only your mills keep breaking all the time :D
Just not super lucky I guess🤷♂️. Although I suspect it's not just mine, browsing the forums you will hear about all kinds of different problems people have.
Bore the old part to the new parts size and have a spare. 😃
Should of gone with 266 from Qualichem. 735 will eat everything. Stay with a semi synthetic
If I was only machining metals I would have probably stuck with the 251c that was in there. I'll look into it though. I'll have to see what other options there are for composites.
@@vcedge9466 266 I believe can handle CF. Call these guys. Tell'em Dustin sent you. coolantguy.com/index.html Ask for Daren or Dan.
See a lot of people including close friends have issues with 735.
Just a thought here; when you bog the spindle motor from running it so hard, the armature current is going to skyrocket and that might melt the wire insulation or melt wires.
It is not good for the spindle- life to run your machine to its limits like that.
Your machine will lose accuracy and breakdown prematurely if you continue running the spindle motor into the ground.
What's your hurry?
They're cheapo t-slot nuts.......
If, instead of a machine motor choking and almost dying, it was a person, I'd hope you'd listen to the warning signs.
You might otherwise be a wonderful person and a superb programmer but it obviously wouldn't hurt if you'd use your ears to hear the death throes of your poor machinery.
It's not wise to expect a 2 HP machine to perform the same as a 10 HP machine.
If you'd pay attention to what your machine is telling you, it'd last 100 times as long and its accuracy would last equally long.
Yes, I don't normally run the machine like that. I'm aware that its not good for the motor etc. long term but this was a nice opportunity to see what it could handle so that I know where the limits are. Those cuts should have been within the 2hp based on my calculator but it couldn't quite do it, so now I know.
Thank you for all the comments and concerns.
@@vcedge9466 :)