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Thank God for leashes.

He wonders if it was all worth it in the end

Down off the dunes, I see! Nice! I secretly wanna be on a Norcal Surfer clip. Where do you set up? 👀

Simply beautiful only thing is is you have to watch out for the men in the gray suits who might want to catch a wave with you and have a snack for later😮😢

Petition to remove that rock sitting right in the spot someone could or could not get spat out of a barrel lol

All that for that . I'm so so happy my 30 years of doing that is over.

This seems like the biggest KOOK wave of all time

Quite the feat. Surfing this place like this day. Best waves of your year or possibly your downfall. 😂

all that for a short close out freezing ice cream headache 😅

I counted up to 71 waves?...it's a tough paddle out on small days, harder in 6-8 feet, and then brutal at this size, and sometimes you just have to quit, noodle arms and shoulders, respect the water...it once took me 45 minutes to get out, on a day like this...brutal!

I got tired just watching that. Determination plus!

Gotta admire his tenacity and persistence but way too much work for me!

Back again.... I used to give myself 3 tries. If I could not make it out the third time, I went in. Happened about one time each year. I dubbed it 'Ignominious Defeat."

The sound says everything

Paddling out in cold water is literally 3 times harder than warm water. I've surfed 10ft Portugal but didn't make it out in 4ft surf in Ireland in the winter. You get two of those frigid waves on the head and you just wanna give up. Don't know how this guy made it out.

I was a Bolinas/Stinson surfer back in the '60s and not used to powerful waves or whitewater. The few times I tried to paddle out at Ocean Beach I was amazed at how easily I was pushed back toward shore, just like shown here, and the along-shore drift was ferocious. I didn't have the stamina this guy did.

Ocean Beach can be a workout on an average day. On days like this, I just sit in the dunes and watch the spectacle. Immense respect to the determination and paddle endurance folks like this have.

Tough place to get outside…that and Bells Beach, Melbourne Australia

Much respect to OB 🏄🏾‍♂️

And I thought getting out on a 5ft choppy day was hard 😭

He sat in the car and watched the surf and decided to run to Starbucks for a quad espresso, knowing it was going to be a pain in the ass out😂😂

Been there done that !! On a normal day OB is a challenge , but this is crazy hard !!

Good on you lad.

all that just to make it out to the shark tank, epic

corey lopez

jobs kamila just nominated you 4 vice prez.question. can i stay in your house till i get on my feet .

Lots of moving water...shallow... deep...shallow...deep. Happened to me here only once, never made it out, Carey made it and was waiting for me for over 45 minutes. Failure.

Total mental+physical test to get 70% of the way out there.... Totally gassed .. And the hardest part is getting passed the outside sets Also, whatever leash brand he's using needs to sponsor him

Great footage!

Cool wave and music 😊

It's a treadmill. If you don't keep pace, you get a nice long swim to make up for it. Dogs love these types of games.

That was ballsy! Too old for that anymore and maybe never was young enough for that paddle? I would look for a spot to shave some of that beard off.

wasted energy. coulda: -timed sets -paddled a bit harder at times -used rip to get out faster -accept the 'L', and just get in after 10 min to get a breather before 2nd attempt

Idk how you even get passed the break

This line up just screams IM A MORON KOOK. You couldn't pay me to surf this crappy ass wave.

sometimes you just have to prove it that yes you can, and how good that feeling is

This guy is keeping it real.

the most famous/infamous novelty wave in the world goes legit

Chapel Porth on an epic big day 8 to 10 foot at 16 seconds very similar only way sketchy because it’s only a narrow beach with sheer cliffs on either side but the actual take off and down the line Bank is an A-frame from the middle of the beach off to maybe a mile or so down the coast to PorthTowan or go round the Headland in the other direction before you get to Aggy the worst thing is getting washed out in front of the cliff as the tide is pushing when it’s that I nearly died once that size on an 8 foot after getting five of the eight set wavesI think I got nearly 8 foot trying to bodysurf the thing back in the general direction of the 25 yard wide beach

Yes, it is. BRUTAL.

Looks like a random day in france

Hearty effort bro 👍👍👍

Larry Bertleman approves from beyond.

Idk if it's just me, but the left going into the side wave further down the beach looks way more tasty

👍👍👍💪🤙

Very good very nice

OB is a tough place. Sometimes I drifted 1 - 2 kms from my original entry point. Other times after 15 duck dives just when I though I had beaten the shore break, a wave from out of nowhere would push me back and I had to start from scratch again. It was frustrating, but the more I got pissed off with the ocean, the more pain I endured.

When OB is too much for you, you go to Fort Point

He just wanted to accommodate the vertical format.

That was a lot of paddling forrrrr that onnnnne drooooop....