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I've never put a thermometer on the vent, but it's cold.

While I never put a thermometer on the vent, I have had no issues.

Thanks for watching. I don't mind criticism if it is constructive and helpful....so, what's the issue?

You can, but it is not necessary. The bed is not that heavy.

I finished the frame yesterday before sundown. I couldn't find a wood chisel. But the little storage wheels I used a 5/16 big bolt and did it directly to frame. Can I do that as well with the main casters? Bolt it directly on? Or is the 2x6 base w carriage bolt necessary for strength? I was about to skip the base and bolt it directly w a 5/16 bolt & lock not. Will it be same strength? This was my 1st wood project EVER 😂 Thanks for the video

​@@laurencevillegarageBTW I made the length 6 feet long, 3.5 feet wide. Seems sturdy or do I need to add a center support and wheel? My Gaylords tonneau cover is super heavy. 4 people kind of struggle.. maybe time for a new lighter one.

Sure, you can make it 5 feet. That won’t hurt anything. The best investment will be in good casters. Don’t get crappy ones. I got mine at Northern tool, I think the set of four was around $75 or so . My wheels are 4 inches in diameter, and they work well. However, 5 inch or even 6 inch wheels would roll easier. The frame will support the weight. I can’t remember if I mentioned it in the video, but I added a piece of plywood to the top, making it a bit of a deck or, moving workbench. Comes in really handy for other projects as well.

@@cybergrindin I used a 2 x 6 and cut four pieces that were basically square. Mounted those into the corners you can use lag bolts to hold the caster on. Or, without using a chisel, you can just find a large drillbit say about 1 inch and drill a hole about, a quarter of an inch deep this will allow you to drill a hole through that and counter sink the head of that bolt so that you can attach your caster and then put your lock washers and nuts on. That’s what I did.

Typically it is suggested to replace the thermostat at the same time. That is what I did.

Yes, it is oil temp sensor. On some years, it is same sensor size as coolant sensor.

There are a couple parts, but I don't think it would be worth it. None of the parts are $$...having said that, the price on calipers has gone up. The fronts are plentiful, but the rears (which have the parking brake) are harder to find. Rockauto's least expensive rear caliper w/core is $68.79 (looking at an '86 Eldorado/Seville/Toronado). You would have to balance the additional work to round up all the individual parts and your time vs. a kit. You may find the kit a better alternative. Having said that (driving the truck a while now), if you really want a noticeable braking difference, either upgrade your drums to better components or go to a larger rear disc brake. The larger rear brake will mean you can't use the 15" wheel. I believe you actually have less braking contact surface with the small rear disc set up. The drums offer more surface contact. The discs always look better, but in the 15" size don't offer better stopping power for the $ IMO.

No issues here.

The truck came stock with a front bar, no rear bar.

Usually a purple wire. Runs from ignition switch to solenoid.

On the blue '95 truck, (DBC) the original cruise control unit is the same as the 1999-2001 or so truck unit that is DBC. Only real difference is the length of the cable from the unit to the throttle body. So, simply swapping the 2001 unit bolted in place and the newer cable is the correct length to fit to the throttle body. The factory electrical connection plugs right into the newer cc unit. That's it. On the white '91, it is now BDW. This can be adapted to the original wiring. Check lt1swap.com for details on connecting that up. It's not hard to do. The factory switch can be made to continue to work.

@@laurencevillegarage morning, I also did the same thing, used the unit from the 2000 Silverado in place of my 88's unit. It didn't work and I believe it was associated with the speedometer. I installed the speed wire off of the PCM and it still isn't working. I'll have to start tracing the wiring to solve this issue. Thank you for replying and have a wonderful day.

Before starting the motor, disconnect the upper hose from the radiator. Hold it up and pour about 3/4 gallon coolant/water in. Enough to still reconnect to radiator without spilling any. This will put enough fluid on the backside of the thermostat so it will function properly. Once the thermostat opens and coolant is flowing, you can add to top it off.

I can imagine. When checking for correct sensor on my '15, I checked on Rockauto. In the coolant sensor section it shows 2 thread sizes and specifies location as either cylinder head or oil filter on most, but not all part numbers. One is a coolant temp sensor, the other is an oil temp sensor. This information shows to be correct for my '15 Wrangler. In looking at your '12 model, it indeed does show the same sensor used for both locations. Be sure when purchasing a sensor, its location is specified. Otherwise, it is easy to buy the "wrong" sensor without first removing your existing sensor to check its thread base.

Thank you, I'm glad you found it helpful.

Thanks for the visit!

That is how the factory does it. You would not want to run it below the leaf and can’t run it above the frame. There is a gap between the spring and frame. The spring is not directly below the frame so it is not sandwiched between them. Do you have an OBS? How would you run the cables?

I did break one as well, just had to be patient and work at it.

The “Y” pipe from the NBS does not fit the OBS. I had hopes in the beginning it would but no. If you use a pipe kit like I did, it’s not bad. The first 2 I made, I was crawling under the truck about 40-50 times…I’m sure that’s an exaggeration, but it was a lot of work. Also, the swag base for my band saw was a huge help. Now I have a lift. It’s hard to do without these 2 items, but it can be done.

I did not, just used the crush style washer with it. No issues, no leaks.

@@laurencevillegarage great, thanks, by the way awesome video.

I added a NBS 2001 master cylinder from a Suburban. They are made for 4 wheel disc brake trucks. You can use this type of m/c or use a proportioning valve to get the correct front to rear balance.

No overheating, I had a code P0128. Everything about it seemed to point to the thermostat, but, in nearly all cases it was suggested to replace the temp sensor as well. With the sensor being inexpensive and having to drain my coolant anyway to change the thermostat, it was a no brainer. And yes, my issue was solved.

Thank you, hope it helped!

Thanks for the response. I pulled the videos of the Toyota temporarily due to "issues" with the owner. If the "issues" can be sorted out, the videos will be made available again.

Glad it was helpful!

My trans was the HM290. Not sure of the difference (if any) in the bellhousing of the 2 trans types. What pan are you using? I used a 98-02 F-body LS1 style pan with no clearance issues.

Not sure it came with the 4.8, I bought a 302-1 and still have the same issue

Wish I could send a pic

@@laurencevillegarage which external slave cylinder may I ask

Without seeing the area of interference I can't say. Another option may be to go with a hydraulic throw out bearing. Not sure how that would fit withing your bell-housing. Again, without seeing it I can't say.

Not sure on the Camaro part, if you order a pump for a '96+ truck, that pump will work. Or you can use an aftermarket walbro type pump.

Yes, that is what the stock motor mounts for a 4.3 v6 look like.

@@laurencevillegarage thanks for the update

Thanks for watching. I found it on Ebay but not directly. By that I mean, the fan shroud looks different on the "tow package" than the regular Liberty. The shroud is larger. So, I found Liberty's that were being parted out and contacted the seller about the shroud and fan. That's how I found it. If you search ads just for that you might find one or the other, but maybe not both together. Also, the electric fan on the tow package is different than the "regular" electric fan. So, that means buying the correct fan to go with the tow package. If you get lucky, you may be able to buy all 3 parts of the same vehicle. The only thing I don't like about it is the install. Space is tight. Check out my latest video. I made a tool that will help you emensely.

If you are using the 1050 flywheel, it should only fit one way (although I have never tried to turn it around to see if it could fit), and a clutch kit, it should all fit well. If you have pieced all the various parts together, that could be an issue. Be sure you are not using the LS throw out bearing, it won't work. Use the correct T O bearing for the trans you have. It should all fit together with some "squeeze", but still have room for the clutch forks to move enough when depressing the clutch for it to disengage. If it fit loosely, that's not right either.

As an update, the parking brake works just fine. The key to rear braking performance and the parking brake is to properly adjust the pads at installation. There is a specific method to doing this on that style of caliper. The info is available online from a variety of sources. As to the performance, even adjusted properly there is not a noticeable performance difference. I believe this has to do with the small size brakes used to fit within a 15” wheel space. There is probably more surface area for braking with a pair of shoes than these relatively small pads. Now, if you were to increase the size of rotor/caliper to fit within, say 17-18” wheels, I feel like that would be a difference you will notice. The disc definitely look better…bottom line, I personally don’t feel the looks/difference in braking are worth the $$ outlay for the small size to fit the 15” wheel. One problem I did have was that I needed to grind a couple areas on the top of the caliper for clearance of the wheel. IF you run your wheel weights on the inside of the rim, you must be very careful to place them where they are not in the path of the caliper. Or else, they will get knocked off and/or scraped along the inside of the wheel. This happened to me with aftermarket rims. Thanks for asking.

Check this site out....cunninghammachine.com/chevy-and-gmc/obs-1988-1998/brake/ hope that answers your question.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching the video, yes, I could have. Maybe next time I'll do that or use rivnuts.

Thank you for watching and the comment. I did mention in the description below the video (I was working on a '91), that to do your research because this modification may not work on later model trucks.

I got them off eBay, made and sold by Belltech.

Thank you and good luck!

Well, thanks for watching!