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Slowly. Haven't had much of a chance to get out to the garage recently, too much other stuff going on.

I'll pass thanks 😆

Only for the top 1cm or so. I bought the bore gauges for this purpose (to measure deeper into the bore), but found the piston ring trick to be better anyway. I did use it off camera to back up the results.

@@RedsGarageUK that makes sense, I forgot about measuring the whole bore, it's crazy the amount of precision goes into these

Will do! 👍

I have a 1980 TR7 that will require an engine rebuild also

No worries!

No worries. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Glad to hear it! 👍

Somebody needs to keep me humble 😁

I do like my videos to be realistic, warts and all (to a point!). If I want to watch something polished and slickly edited I'll watch the BBC. I think the water pump is probably fitted new and never used, from the looks of it. But it's been sitting there for over 30 years so it's getting new seals for sure! I get the new ones are a lot better than the originals (how often can you say that these days?), but £300 is still pretty painful, I'm going to be spending a fair bit on this already so I'll use the one I have 🙂

@@RedsGarageUK I bet that water pump is fine with a bit of luck :) Some modern replacement parts are awesome, but some are not as good as I'd hope.. I forgot to add, I think you're very capable, so will make a good job of that engine :) Have you thought about buying the parts to make it a Sprint engine? I just thought it you need to put money into the head, and buying new pistons maybe go 16v? Although that said there is quite a big difference in cost between a rebuild kit for a 8v and 16v Triumph engines if you look on Rimmer site. Thank you again anyway, and well done! :)

@@adrianhughes2163 Thanks! I'd love a Sprint engine, but that's a whole other level of expense and complication on a project that's already been going on way too long. Perhaps a future project if I can find the parts!

@@RedsGarageUK I don't blame you, the 8v 'stuff' is so much cheaper and better value for money. The Sprint 'stuff' now even for rebuild kits is probably twice the price looking at the rebuild kit on Rimmers for 8v and 16v respectively. And I like the 8v engine, best way to describe it is 'happy go lucky' as daff as that may sound, meaning its so easy to drive and live with due to bags of low down torque from the get go for lazy gear changing. It runs out of puff around 5500 rpm, but how often do we use that?! Keep going honestly, you're doing great work. And once done you'll have a fully sorted TR7 that will last years!

Thanks! 👍

Thanks! Don't worry though, tongue firmly in cheek there. I don't take myself too seriously!

I feel kinda sad they never got to finish it. Happy to carry on and finish the job though! 👍

Thanks! 👍

I did look at that, but I've got what looks like an as-new condition one here so I'll run with that for now as long as it all looks okay.

The problem with these pumps is if they go they lock up the jackshaft and snap the timing chain. I had a new pump on mine it leaked. Got a davies craig ewp80 and a brass bung from ej ward no leaks no worries. The electric pump is the same cost as a new mechanical one.

Yeah, that's what I'm going to end up doing after all that!

The clutch cylinder won.

@@RedsGarageUK I must be on my 3rd clutch master cylinder and 4th rebuild kit in 38 years of DHC ownership. I never trusted myself in honing one.

@@Poz100 I figured it was worth a try. The pin's too short anyway, so I'll be replacing it and I'll never know if it would have worked!

Thanks! I got lucky with this one - exactly what I needed (and wanted lol) and about half the price of anything else that was around. It does need more work though!

Kudos to you seeing a diamond in the rough :) One lucky van actually... :)

Thanks 😁 Still lots to do on the TR7, working on wiring and engine at the moment!

I used lithium grease. Seems to work well so far, time will tell though.

Thanks! It's going okay, got a couple of videos in the works. Should have one or the other out in a week or so.

Thanks! 👍Yeah, he's never too far away!

Thanks! I'm aiming to get her back on the road before the end of this year. But then again, I've said that several times before 😄

It sounds more like a problem with the park switch (on the side of the motor, part of the plastic plug assembly). Unfortunately you can't get replacements as far as I know, but there's a good chance it just needs adjusting or cleaning up. That said, I'm not familiar with the later switch layout or the intermittent wipe controller, the earlier cars didn't have that.

Glad I could help! 👍

Yeah, I needed the break - I just never meant for it to be for this long! Back on the case now though 👍

Thanks! It's been a lot of work but not actually too complicated. Just one wire at a time. Glad I had the old loom to refer to, though!

Thanks!

Thanks! Yeah, I think I'll be doing the same with the indicator switch, too. Why pay TR7 prices when mini ones are the same but cheaper?

Interesting, I wasn't aware of that. I just assumed they stuck it to a bit of plastic! It does need to be a flat ribbon where it goes along the sill (there's no recess for it, it just goes underneath the carpet there), but yeah, the rest of it I'll just wrap like a normal loom!

Thanks!

Thanks, good to be back! Yes, I'm going to be adding in a few little extras myself (to come in a future video), but I just wanted to get the basics back to original spec first and get rid of all the old bodged wiring. Yes, the lucas plugs are still available but pretty expensive for what they are! As there was nothing really wrong with the plastic housings on mine I opted to just replace all the pins and reuse the housings. I might go back round and swap all the bullet connectors out though, can't say I'm really a fan of those! And yes, none of those pre insulated terminals are going anywhere near the car! No idea why they're so popular, they look naff and don't crimp properly half the time...

I did consider that, but for all the looms it's almost £700! I thought this would be more fun to make one myself (and mostly, it was). Plus, this way I can add a few extra wires of my own into the loom.

Thanks!

Thanks! More to come, the engine has taken a slightly new direction... video on that coming soon!

I've got way too much work in her to sell her now!

That many connections, there was inevitably going to be something go wrong! I'm just happy I didn't set anything on fire 😁

Thanks for sticking around! I never meant to be away this long... I'm already working on two more '7 videos, so don't worry 👍

Thanks! I'm looking forward to actually having this as a car and not just a project though. It's been too long 😆

Thanks! Yes, I had no idea about the resistor wire, it confused the hell out of me when it went all the way up the loom for no apparent reason - I initially thought (BL build quality being what it was) that someone at the factory messed up the wiring and just buried it in the loom rather than cutting it back properly! She did have electronic ignition (I actually put it in myself, many years ago!), which might explain the 12v coil now I think about it. But the ballast resistor was there when I bought the car, so who knows what sort of mess some PO had made (I seem to remember finding a wire from the coil negative to the starter motor?). Part of why I remade the loom from scratch in the first place. I'm not planning on fitting electronic ignition just yet (keeping things simple and original for now!) but now I think about it, I might just add another wire into the loom for a 12v feed so it's there if I need it.

@@RedsGarageUK Electronic ignition requires a 12V 3 Ohm coil, your coil you measured had a measured value of 1.8 Ohm ( near enough to 1.5) and with the Eureka wire gives you the 3 Ohms. It looks to me that the previous owner used the original 1.5 Ohm coil and added a ballast resistor of 1.5 Ohms not knowing either about the eureka wire. I have seen this before. It is imperative that this eureka wire is permanently shorted out (usually by shorting white & white & yellow) if electronic ignition is added.

@@ChrisFEJacksonOddly enough though, the car just had standard points ignition when I got her. So no idea what the extra resistor was doing there! The wiring around the coil pretty much fell apart when I took it all out so I'm not sure what the setup actually was now.

@@RedsGarageUK Maybe electronic ignition was tried using the same coil and adding the 1.5 Ohm ballast resistor, not knowing of the eureka wire. It didn't work so points were put back in and it worked! Once the extra ballast resistor was removed and left in situ cuz it looked good :)

With my Accuspark electronic ignition on my TR7 I have used a normal 12v non ballasted coil with a 12v ignition wire (white) and it works as it should. The ballast/eureka wire has been bypassed.

Thanks! Good to be back!

Oh, plenty fazes me! I just tend to turn the camera off for those bits 😆 I found a small pair of pliers for the crimping really helped to get everything sitting right, then properly clamping it down with a bigger pair worked best. Not sure how my alt ever worked, it does look like that thin wire was hidden in the loom right from the factory! But the engine wiring was all kinds of weird anyway, hence the push to put it all back to standard - I was tying myself in knots trying to figure out what some previous owner had done!

Thanks! Don't worry, I'm trying for more frequent updates this year - I'm working on two new vids already - plus another two (non-TR7) vids are wrapped and ready for editing...

Good advice. Got all that fun to come!

Awesome, sounds like she's in good hands!

This cars in good nick for it's age.

Heh, never got me yet! But the bonnet came off as soon as I started doing any work on the engine bay. It won't be back on until I'm done. Why tempt fate? 😄