So I have a series 2 that is very hard to start cold and also when it nice and hot. It turns over a bunch and hiccups and blows a puff of smoke and disengages the starter like it going to start but doesn’t. I need to jump on the key once it does that and it gets better sounding. Sometimes doing that will get it started but most of the time I kill the battery trying to start it and give up. I did notice that the throttle side plug gets wet with gas when trying to start it. Right side is dry as a bone. Thinking maybe it needs a rebuild and carb clean since its been sitting a long time. How much did it cost ball park to do a full rebuild yourself? Might turn it into a project. I use this tractor as my snow blower since it is hydro and set up for winter.
Very good in-depth instructional video that engine should have another 30 years or more of life left in her good job I rebuilt the engine in my John Deere 68 but I would love to rebuild a two cylinder opposed twin engine
Thank you very much! I bet this engine will last a long time in this rebuilt state. That's awesome! I hope you can find an opposed engine to rebuild, they sure are nice :D
I have a problem with mine that seems odd. The valves open and close the push rod for the timing doesn't move. Is it one solid rod that goes to the cam or two? Is it possible to only take the engine housing apart without removing the cylinder heads?
If your valves open and close, that means your camshaft is turning. Your valve tappets open your valves on this engines and in your case everything works just fine. It would be hard to believe that your camshaft skipped a tooth or even sheared teeth, to off-set the timing between the crankshaft timing gear and the camshaft. but anything is possible! Check to see if you have shavings in your oil. If it's nice and clean, then you probably don't have any internal damage! You could remove your cylinder jugs without removing your cylinder heads. Just remove 6 bolts holding the cylinder jug to the crankcase. I hope you find a solution and if you firgure out what happened, please let me know. Your comment will let me know your problem got solved and it might just help many other KT17 owners. Regards Andreas
Hello Randall, I'm sorry to hear that you're having issue with your engine assembly. I understand that your crankshaft is tight on the outside diameter of your crankshaft. If everything is tight and your crankshaft DOES NOT rotate and NOT allow you to check for end-play, I would remove the crankshaft. Check if there are any imperfections on the main-bearings and make sure to locate them in the housing correctly (there must be a locating tab)! If these are new bearings, you will want to measure them. I would measure the Inside Diameter every 45 degrees of the bearings. If you receive a measurement which is smaller by 0.002"-0.005" then your bearing might be oval, which could cause this "Clamping Effect" on you crankshaft. You can measure your housing the same way when you tighten the two halfs together without a crankshaft. Another method is to take both bearings and insert them into the housing and tighten the housing bolts. This will allow you to determine the Inside Diameter of the bearings when they are in place, just without a crankshaft. You can they compare the Inside Diameter of the main bearings to the Outside Diameter of the crankshaft main bearings. According to the link in the description, the "Crankshaft Main Sleeve Bearing Oil Clearance" should be 0.002". I hope this will will help you out and if not, share an update with me of what you tried out. I can possibly help from there. Best regards -Andreas
Could you please provide a link to the seller of your rebuild kit? I see a couple on ebay and don't which one is the best quality. Thank you for this excellent TH-cam. OK, I think you said from "I Save Tractors". Did the rods and pistons, and rings, and gasket kit all come from IST? Did you polish the crank or just clean it?
I wanted to buy a kit on eBay which had everything (pistons, piston rings, con-rods, and the full gasket kit)...then the supplier couldn't send it out for some reason and I decided to purchase parts from IST. I had to purchase the piston & piston rings separately and then I ordered the full gasket kit. They do not supply connecting rods, so I had a look at the ones that came out of my engine and measured them. They were still in great shape, and within specs so I could reuse them. Yes, I always use a P-400 grit emery cloth to polish my crankshafts (NOT SANDPAPER). After a little touch-up, it was like new! If you would like me to send you a link of the parts I ordered, please send me an Email. Best regards
Hello, I believe it cost me under $200. The Rebuild kit was from isavetractors (Pistons and complete gasket kit). That's all I needed for this engine! Best regards
Whenever I find an engine that has been sitting for so long, I would Never just start it. There are too many factors that can go wrong if you do that. I rather take it apart and rebuild it and know what I have in front of me. Best regards
Good eye, yes there is! I had the gasket but did not use it. This cover just redirects the oil back into the bottom of the block and the same plate holds the crankshaft seal! I like to use UTV Sealant on covers that need to hold oil. If I were to use a gasket, I would be applying a thin layer of UTV Sealant on both sides of the gasket...so I probably save myself a bit of sealant and I have a spare gasket! Thanks for the question anyways! Cheers
Very well done my friend! Very useful and indepth
Thank you very much Randall! I appreciate your kind words and I'm glad I could share useful content with you. Best regards
this was excellent........you have my confidence beaming
Thank you! I really hope the closeups will help you out and if you have any questions, don't hesitate to comment or send me an email! Best regards
Very nice, helpful video for my kt17
Thank you for the positive feedback and I"m glad I could help! Stay tuned for more episodes. Best regards
So I have a series 2 that is very hard to start cold and also when it nice and hot. It turns over a bunch and hiccups and blows a puff of smoke and disengages the starter like it going to start but doesn’t. I need to jump on the key once it does that and it gets better sounding. Sometimes doing that will get it started but most of the time I kill the battery trying to start it and give up. I did notice that the throttle side plug gets wet with gas when trying to start it. Right side is dry as a bone. Thinking maybe it needs a rebuild and carb clean since its been sitting a long time. How much did it cost ball park to do a full rebuild yourself? Might turn it into a project. I use this tractor as my snow blower since it is hydro and set up for winter.
Very good in-depth instructional video that engine should have another 30 years or more of life left in her good job I rebuilt the engine in my John Deere 68 but I would love to rebuild a two cylinder opposed twin engine
Thank you very much! I bet this engine will last a long time in this rebuilt state. That's awesome! I hope you can find an opposed engine to rebuild, they sure are nice :D
@@WorkshopRebuild yes
I have a problem with mine that seems odd. The valves open and close the push rod for the timing doesn't move. Is it one solid rod that goes to the cam or two? Is it possible to only take the engine housing apart without removing the cylinder heads?
If your valves open and close, that means your camshaft is turning. Your valve tappets open your valves on this engines and in your case everything works just fine. It would be hard to believe that your camshaft skipped a tooth or even sheared teeth, to off-set the timing between the crankshaft timing gear and the camshaft. but anything is possible! Check to see if you have shavings in your oil. If it's nice and clean, then you probably don't have any internal damage!
You could remove your cylinder jugs without removing your cylinder heads. Just remove 6 bolts holding the cylinder jug to the crankcase.
I hope you find a solution and if you firgure out what happened, please let me know. Your comment will let me know your problem got solved and it might just help many other KT17 owners. Regards Andreas
I have a series 1 motor in my 317. Is the rebuild process pretty much the same as the series 2 motor?
Yes they are basically the same except for the details around the camshaft that allow oil to flow through to the rear main bearing.
i have a problem on reassembly, when i tighten the case bolts the crank is locked up, i have double checked everything HELP
Hello Randall, I'm sorry to hear that you're having issue with your engine assembly. I understand that your crankshaft is tight on the outside diameter of your crankshaft.
If everything is tight and your crankshaft DOES NOT rotate and NOT allow you to check for end-play, I would remove the crankshaft. Check if there are any imperfections on the main-bearings and make sure to locate them in the housing correctly (there must be a locating tab)! If these are new bearings, you will want to measure them. I would measure the Inside Diameter every 45 degrees of the bearings. If you receive a measurement which is smaller by 0.002"-0.005" then your bearing might be oval, which could cause this "Clamping Effect" on you crankshaft. You can measure your housing the same way when you tighten the two halfs together without a crankshaft.
Another method is to take both bearings and insert them into the housing and tighten the housing bolts. This will allow you to determine the Inside Diameter of the bearings when they are in place, just without a crankshaft. You can they compare the Inside Diameter of the main bearings to the Outside Diameter of the crankshaft main bearings. According to the link in the description, the "Crankshaft Main Sleeve Bearing Oil Clearance" should be 0.002".
I hope this will will help you out and if not, share an update with me of what you tried out. I can possibly help from there.
Best regards -Andreas
Could you please provide a link to the seller of your rebuild kit? I see a couple on ebay and don't which one is the best quality. Thank you for this excellent TH-cam. OK, I think you said from "I Save Tractors". Did the rods and pistons, and rings, and gasket kit all come from IST? Did you polish the crank or just clean it?
I wanted to buy a kit on eBay which had everything (pistons, piston rings, con-rods, and the full gasket kit)...then the supplier couldn't send it out for some reason and I decided to purchase parts from IST.
I had to purchase the piston & piston rings separately and then I ordered the full gasket kit.
They do not supply connecting rods, so I had a look at the ones that came out of my engine and measured them. They were still in great shape, and within specs so I could reuse them.
Yes, I always use a P-400 grit emery cloth to polish my crankshafts (NOT SANDPAPER). After a little touch-up, it was like new!
If you would like me to send you a link of the parts I ordered, please send me an Email. Best regards
Great job! How much was the compleat rebild? very helpful for my KT17. These are one of the best sounding small engines made.
Hello, I believe it cost me under $200. The Rebuild kit was from isavetractors (Pistons and complete gasket kit). That's all I needed for this engine! Best regards
@@WorkshopRebuild nice! thank you for the info.
Nice video! This will be helpful to me. Thanks
I'm glad to hear that, thank you! Best regards
Was this engine in running order when you got it or was it not was the compression low or did it have damage
Whenever I find an engine that has been sitting for so long, I would Never just start it. There are too many factors that can go wrong if you do that. I rather take it apart and rebuild it and know what I have in front of me. Best regards
Isn't there a Gasket between the Cover Plate and the Block?? (not just sealent). OOOPS! You just answered that!
Good eye, yes there is! I had the gasket but did not use it. This cover just redirects the oil back into the bottom of the block and the same plate holds the crankshaft seal!
I like to use UTV Sealant on covers that need to hold oil. If I were to use a gasket, I would be applying a thin layer of UTV Sealant on both sides of the gasket...so I probably save myself a bit of sealant and I have a spare gasket!
Thanks for the question anyways! Cheers
Why are you saying utv sealant? Is it RTV?
On the packaging of this Sealant it says UTV/RTV. I just went with UTV, so there shouldn‘t be anything wrong with that😁👍🏽