Hey Mike I appreciate your content. I have a 317 and I love that little tractor. So I’m always looking to educate myself on the machines I use. I wish I understood the inner workings of the hydrostatic because mine won’t go anymore. Keep up the good work if it’s what you love to do.
I have found it easier to remove the fender pan, drive out the sheer pin from the drive shaft at the rear (which is normally rust-welled together), spray with penetrant, let sit for at least an hour, get on and start up and with throttle at full, push all the way forward quickly on the forward/reverse lever. The motor torque breaks the rust welds. I spray more penetrant and easily slide the motor out while it drags the drive shaft out with it. You can then deal with getting the drive shaft off the hub on the bench with the hub removed from the engine.
Hi. We are wanting to sell our 1980 JD 317. It sat for over a year. Now it won't turn over at all. Is there anyway to raise the plow and rear tiller to load it on a trailer if there's no power?
I have a 1982 JD 317 with the KT-317 engine. I think it broke a connecting rod. Do you fix these? Where are you located? How much would it cost? I can pull the engine myself.
@@mikestarcher I have four 317s. One I purchased new in the day with the Series I. I still have it and the heads have never been off: Points, fuel pump, a coil (may have been a bad diagnosis...), plugs, oil filler cap, belts (but not too many as I always buy John Deere), Mule drive bearings/pulleys. It gets worked harder and longer than the other 317s (Vanguard and Series II), but I aways check the oil, keep it topped up and drive it on mostly flat land. It has countless hours. Smoked a bit 10 years ago so I started mixing Marvels in the gas and a little added to the engine oil. After a few tank fulls, no more smoke and none today!
Hey Mike I appreciate your content. I have a 317 and I love that little tractor. So I’m always looking to educate myself on the machines I use. I wish I understood the inner workings of the hydrostatic because mine won’t go anymore. Keep up the good work if it’s what you love to do.
I like the "I save tractors." music. Norm would be proud.
You are correct about the piston. The hole is for piston orientation.
Thanks.
I have found it easier to remove the fender pan, drive out the sheer pin from the drive shaft at the rear (which is normally rust-welled together), spray with penetrant, let sit for at least an hour, get on and start up and with throttle at full, push all the way forward quickly on the forward/reverse lever. The motor torque breaks the rust welds. I spray more penetrant and easily slide the motor out while it drags the drive shaft out with it. You can then deal with getting the drive shaft off the hub on the bench with the hub removed from the engine.
Hey Mike I started watching your channel today we’re can I find parts for my 74 John deere 112
I use ebay or isavetractors
Thank you
How do you get that tail shaft off? Mine has a Briggs swapped into it with a leaky rear main and I’m just struggling
The tail shaft?
Hi. We are wanting to sell our 1980 JD 317. It sat for over a year. Now it won't turn over at all. Is there anyway to raise the plow and rear tiller to load it on a trailer if there's no power?
Have 2 pick them up by hand
hey bro just watched the 200 series operation. where can i buy with links to all supporting mods about the lift i am missing almost everything
Ebay or marketplace
I have a 1982 JD 317 with the KT-317 engine. I think it broke a connecting rod. Do you fix these? Where are you located? How much would it cost? I can pull the engine myself.
It would be pretty expensive 2 fix but I could fix it for u. Probably $200 in parts + labor.
@@mikestarcher Where are you located? I love this tractor, and think it would be worth it.
@@taxmanrog ohio
Hey man are you selling and tractor or rototiller
I'm selling lots of tractors
Are they both Series I?
Yup
@@mikestarcher I have four 317s. One I purchased new in the day with the Series I. I still have it and the heads have never been off: Points, fuel pump, a coil (may have been a bad diagnosis...), plugs, oil filler cap, belts (but not too many as I always buy John Deere), Mule drive bearings/pulleys. It gets worked harder and longer than the other 317s (Vanguard and Series II), but I aways check the oil, keep it topped up and drive it on mostly flat land. It has countless hours. Smoked a bit 10 years ago so I started mixing Marvels in the gas and a little added to the engine oil. After a few tank fulls, no more smoke and none today!
Do you have any john deere garden tractor hub caps for sale?
Nope
Thank you