Hextduder Direct drive Prusa mini
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- Big thanks to original designers
Vez3D
/ @vez3d
MirageC
/ @miragec
the tool-Head
www.prusaprint...
//LDO NEMA14
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//Bmg kit
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// heat insert
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//M3 set
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//optional * coupler ptfe
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Donation
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Cults3d
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PrusaPrint
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thank you for Watching !
Currently testing setup. Need to limit upper Z-axis extreme as LDO motor hits and perturbs X-axis. Need to either avoid such prints or install earlier hard stop to activate z-stepper torque limit switch earlier.
Nice model. I m curious about cooling performance. Did you see any noticeable impact on overhangs and bridges ?
Yes offcurs, I have always under extrusion and miss stepping with bowden setup
It has been a year already…what is your assessment with this direct drive on your Prusa Mini?
Link to that super cool lcd bezel?
Hi bro I found two motors types in your post link，what's type you used，thanks！
Nice design!! I am putting it together now. So far only issue is insufficient support for the nut which functions to hold the PINDA probe. Not to hard to fix IMO.
Yes, I will upload another file without support, so it can be made on prusa slicer for more control
@@rarih100 Cool ! I just filled the void for the nut with glue then drilled and tapped it. Other minor bit with my print was inboard bearing hole did not fit snugly, although that appears to be inconsequential.
I am printing the parts now to try on my mini cant wait!
Do you have the STL files for the filament sensor at the end of the video that you made?
Is it feasible to use the revo micro hotend?
La intención es muy buena y en realidad una actualización de primera ,sin embargo el problema de la mini está en el hotend.
how much weight was added to the x axis?
It's about 250 to 270g with all components in it
So what about wiring since there are few different motors around all with different coloring???
My Mamsih Hextruder is assembled and near ready to transplant on my MIni. Now I only look for fitting to adapt 4mm tubing to the filament entry port.
But it is unthreaded and does not allow factory 8mm fitting or the 6mm fitting I ordered to tap into it.
Is there a solution or do you just feed uncovered raw filament into the port ???
I hate to say this, but your test prints look significantly worse than stock prints. They not only seem to have more stringing, but they also have a lot of banding which I've never seen in any of my stock prints.
Do you have anything a little bit more definitive on whether this mod really provides significant improvements in print quality?
Thanks!
You must tune that if you have some issues and second thing is : we dont know nothing about his slicer settings ! and biggiest improvement is you can print more filaments without typical "bowden" problems and last thing is better cooling
Good looking design, very compact :)
Thank you
Can you try some flex tpu? That is what direct drive excels at after all
Yes I'am waiting my spool of tpu, btw the direct drive not just for tpu but for many purposes, less stringing, more control on extrusion 👍
Hi, I've been considering upgrading to direct on my mini for just this reason- however...
It kinda looks like the stringing on your prints is worse after installing direct? The stringing on that benchy is definitely a lot worse than on my stock mini. My benchys also don't have any of the banding that I'm seeing at the end of your video.
It looks like you made this post about a year ago, could you weigh in at all about your print quality compared to stock? Perhaps a more detailed video showing print quality?
I would really like to heavily upgrade my mini for doing very fine detailed parts and prints, but I've seen a lot of people doing direct drive upgrades that only end up resulting in less consistent extrusion, banding.
Generally speaking, I hesitate to do a mod that would require so much work, only to get worse prints- and frankly, your test prints at the end of this video look significantly worse than stock prints, with heavy banding, and more stringing. Did you ever get this dialed in? Is there actually significant benefit to doing a mod like this in the mini?
Thank you.
Thanks for sharing!
And electronic's part?
Does the loading and unloading work well? Since the distance from extruder to nozzle is now so much shorter. And you have to go through the process so the printer knows what filament you have installed. (For stock firmware)
No need to custom FW just works fine to send a gcode for that
@@rarih100 but will it say, (in the lower corner) what filament is installed?
@@brandoneich2412 I don't know what was that, but if i understand, it show what type of filament I have petg or abs etc
@@brandoneich2412 normally when you load filament tells you what temperature or type the filament is to feed, nothing to do with extruder I think 🤔
@@rarih100 correct. It usually appears when you select which filament you load, but if your not using the firmware's load and unload feature it wouldn't change.
👏
End step extruder is the same or has a different setup for start gcode?
It is different, you can found it in the file description
@@rarih100 thanks but i can't find anything on the end step to change in the start gcode. do you know if the connection of the wires must be done as it is or are there wires to reverse?
@@livioseverino5921 you can follow my mounting of the orbiter and the steps will be M92 E705
www.prusaprinters.org/prints/70026-ldo-orbiter-15-prusa-minimini#preview
You can find the wiring for the nema there
@@rarih100 I assembled everything according to your instructions but the motor is undersized has no strength to extrude hard materials. I don't know how you did it but for me it's an unusable project. Unfortunately I have to disassemble everything and reassemble the prusa mini as it was from the factory. Among other things, if you look at the original motor compared to the pancake it is much bigger therefore they could not have the same performance.
@@livioseverino5921 sad to hear that, you probably not assembled like it should, this tiny motor with 3 to 1 ratio have a down force more important than a regular Nema17, I have no issue with pushing filament what so ever, make sure all the gears turn freely