I bought one as an emergency backup to my original Prusa I3 Mk3. Turns out it actually prints better than my Prusa, so now I'm using both. There are already people designing new fans and such. Also a couple people installing and running Klipper with input shaping and getting print speeds comparable to the Bamboo X1. To Sovol's credit, they took the leap that Prusa refused to take and designed extrusion molds for the major parts. This brings their costs down significantly in bulk sales and produces higher accuracy parts.
A klipperized bed slinger, built really well will have an acceleration significantly lower than any core XY. So will never achieve CoreXY print speed, but can reduce the gap.
It can come nowhere near a bambu. It's not possible for any bed slinger. I have a ender 3 s1 with klipper and the best I can hope for is 150mm with 3500 acceleration. That is like the max where I can retain acceptable quality. A bambu can do 500mms and 20000 accel. They are not comparable. It's more comparable then a stock a stock ender 3 s1, but still two different ball parks.
There's a guy in the Sovol community named Rory Game who has worked his butt off making optimized firmwares, mods, and slicer profiles for several of the Sovol models. He has adressed most of the major shortcomings the Sovol printers tend to have.
As a beginner It was Very hard to me make It work, thank the community I fixes ALL my problems and now is working very well. Changing the firmware worked the best for me
Its encouraging that Sovol seem to be treating the open source nature of these printers seriously, with proper STEP files etc. While companies like Creality have done much to bring 3D printing to the masses, their commitment to open source is poor to say the least. It looks to me like this printer would be an ideal base for someone who wants to print but will also want to tinker with the machine - there certainly seem to be a couple of issues that need looking at - but to me the price seems very good for a printer that seems to have generally favorable reviews where I have seen it.
Don't let it fool you. Their customer support is almost non existent and they aren't at all helpful when they actually reply. And they're moving towards proprietary components on top of it.
I love mine, I bought it and the Klipper upgrade at the same time for my first printer in June and only had issues on day 1. Apparently I screwed up my z-offset towards the end of my first day so when I woke up day 2 I ignored the internet's advice and used feeler gauges instead of paper and have had ZERO issues since and it's basically been running nonstop since. My Z end-stops aren't square so I use 1-2-3 blocks to ensure the gantry is level to the bed occasionally.
I'd love to see a standard sound measurement for printers. Say, dB level at 1 meter. I'm very sensitive to whining noises and (successfully) replaced all the fans on my Ender 3v2 with Noctua fans to quiet it down.
It's something I've always thought about but don't have a good repeatable environment. I'm ultra sensitive to sound and found this printer to be really quiet, the steppers don't make a high pitch whine unlike the bambu p1p's when energised which is nice.
Been a fan since I first got into 3D printing on a whim, more or less. I have only been printing now for about 18 months and I now have two printers and I am searching for what my third one will be already. I really have valued your completely honest reviews as well as all the things I have learned about the ins and outs of the 3D printing world. For now its still a hobby, but I have been able to make enough money with it that it pays for itself and even allows me to acquire more printers. Keep up all of the outstanding work and reviews!
I'm actually loving my SV06 - it worked straight out of the box, using the Cura profile they provide on the SD card, the only change I made was to up the speed to 80mm/s. Took a bit of a risk in buying this printer as none of the channels I trust had produced a review on it yet. I've put approximately eighty print hours through mine by now, every single print has come out almost perfect - aside from a bit of wispy stuff, but that's potentially my temp setings for my filament. Admittedly, I've not tried any "torture test" style prints, and the longest print so far has been about fourteen hours. Obvious disclaimers apply - I'm just a 3D printing scrub, my only other machine being an Ender 3 V2 Neo. Thanks Angus for putting this video out there, love your work mate.
@@Darenz-cg9zg i figured them out i actually would recommend getting an sv06. i see problems about a warped bed and such but my problems were user error. theres great groups on facebook and reddit when you need help.
Angus thank you. I have been debating weather to get a new printer, Prusa, or Ender or another of several on the market. I saw the Sovol SV06 Plus by chance, the price is within range and I had to see how you reviewed it. I watched a couple review vids and I'm sold. I'm not a pro with 3D but I do have high standards of what I need and want out of a machine, and your review solidified my choice.
I don't necessarily *need* the 3D Printing Tips and Tricks, I'll but it anyway because I'm sure there is a lot of good info, and I just want to support your channel! All of your videos are well-thought-out and very concise. You have really helped me and the community at large. Cheers, Angus!
Prusa raus und FLSUN rein Bin ich froh das ich den Prusa los bin. Und mein Nachbar wegen (trotz Wärmebox und Unterlagen) auch. Aufgebaut war er in 40 Minuten. Einrichtung sehr einfach. Macht seine Arbeit sehr gut. Dies ist meine erste Glasplatte. Es war absolut unmöglich die Bauteile zu Beginn von der Glasplatte zu lösen. Dank sehr Gutem Support 3d Jake musste ich nur paar Sprüher mit Glasreiniger auf die abgekühlte Plattform machen. Und etwas warten. Und schon war es ohne Spachtel möglich. Der Druck war in meinen Händen. Ich habe die gleichen Modelle gedruckt wie beim Prusa MK3S+ und sie waren gar nicht wieder zu erkennen. So genau ins Detail und selbst ein Drache (Cults) war endlich ansehbar. Bin sehr froh das ich den FLSUN bei 3d Jake gekauft habe. Vielen Dank.+ Verpackung+ Design+ Geschwindigkeit+ Genauigkeit+ Lautstärke (nur Lüfter zu hören)+ Pflegeleicht+ Glasplatte reicht vollkommen (Upgrade auf PEI möglich)+ Preis+ Support- zu spät für den FLSUN entschieden
The toolhead already has a plug for a runout sensor and the new SV06 Plus has one as standard. I think Sovol will sell the senzor as a plug in upgrade for the SV06 as well.
You are absolutely one of the best reviewers on this platform. No politics, no drama, just honest and straightforward. It’s like you’re on an island in this game. But it’s well received.
I bought the Sovol SV06 as my second 3D printer, it's an amazing printer for the price, it prints great, the auto-leveling works flawlessly, and it was super easy to put together and start using. It's quieter than my first printer (Mega Zero 2.0), but it is still quite loud, and I tried applying some grease to the metal rods, and it quieted things down a bit, but it still isn't silent.
I had a filament jam in my MK3s today and it took me a couple of minutes to clear it. I love my Prusa and it has printed 5.4Km of filament. It was worth the money.
One thing I've run into with inexpensive printers is skew during full bed prints. I print functional things vs. models most of the time. I would love to see more reviews include things like skew testing. I was able to fix it using Marlin's skew correction. Before my sub $300 printer I never gave it a lot of thought, now I do. It was fun to learn building and compiling my own version of the firmware, but I'd rather be printing. :)
I love it when I get a notification that one of my print designs has been remixed, I hope Prusa appreciate how much everyone uses their open source designs, because their printers are a benchmark to live up to. One problem I see with open source in this sort of situation is that manufacturers often only go as far as making their product just usable, it's like they leave it up to the community to tidy up the loose ends and make their own fixes/enhancements, precisely why I started out with a Prusa i3 Mk3 nearly 5 years ago, which is still going strong, I've barely done anything to it except perhaps design a better, more ergonomic & easier to use control knob for the LCD (thing 4330049).
Minor nitpick here. Prusa did not open source their printer designs because they did not have proprietary control over it. To your second point, I think that the quality of low budged 3D printers has improved a lot in recent time. The SV06 is a pretty incredible machine at its price point. When I got into 3D printing I also started out with a Prusa because I wanted the hassle free experience. However, today it's much harder to justify the Prusa premium because others have gotten so much better.
I bought an SV06 a few weeks back as my first printer as it seemed like a good entry point. Full metal hotend, clone of a decent design, not stuck with Crealitys' lack of support. It's been a very nice experience as a novice to be honest, easy to set up, easy to calibrate. The only issue I've had out of the box was not realising the belts needed a decent once over after loosening during shipping. But that's just beginners junk. A slightly bigger build platform would be nice for printing props and stuff, and a filament runout would be great too. But Sovol just announced the SV06 Plus which has both of those and a volcano hotend. So I timed my purchase very well.
Oh yeah, installing a runout sensor aftermarket seems pretty simple. There's a little socket on the side of the extruder that handles the input, and just runs to the DET port on the board if you want to not have a random cable running to the extruder. I've got one shipping to me now to give it a shot. It's a bit of a pain finding this info out without happening across specific reddit threads. There's a bunch of features in their Marlin config enabled that they just didn't talk about too like G2/G3 arc support and M155 temp report support. So you can use those if you like tweaking gcode defaults.
Creality's lack of support? Huh? 😂 What support do you need from them? The community is always better anyway, and it's one of the biggest communities around. I've never once needed Creality for anything. In fact, since the internet has been invented I've never once needed the company of any products I buy, for anything. I literally go straight to forums or TH-cam. 😂 You probably read that from other noobs and just took it as gospel. I love these posts. A noob buys their first machine and thinks it's the best and comes on TH-cam and goes "I got the best machine and I don't have to deal with this this and this, then they realize, just like prusa owners, that oh, I am running into the same issues, I do have to still make upgrades. I am going to have to learn basic electronics and how a machine works" Doh! Truth of the matter is my guy. If you have some decent skills you can buy the cheaper printer and make it better than the Prusa for less than $400. That's a skill. You also don't need the company for support. I know Prusa people love to talk about the support they get lmao, as if that's somehow a reason to spend $800 on a bed slinger when the same support is on TH-cam and other places. I love all my Enders. My first E3V2 is still going strong and all I did was all metal hotend, ABL, bed spacers and jyers firmware. People can claim their printers are better but the proof is in the prints. I now have printers that are faster but that Ender prints beautifully. I have no issues with the glass beds or first layers either. The reason you think creality printers have problems is because they're cheaper and noobs buy them that have no skills and don't know what they're dealing with. These are the same people that will just throw money at it thinking more upgrades will solve their problems. Thankfully there are companies who are willing to sell us the cheaper machines and leave it up to those of us that are skilled enough to upgrade it. Otherwise I would be stuck spending hundreds of more dollars for a product that comes with part I might have to replace anyway. I don't need a company to do all my upgrades. Nor do I want them to. I would like to choose my upgrades and how much I'm willing to spend on them. I love creality. They brought 3D printing to the masses. Just ordered their Falcon 2. I'm not a Creality fanboy. I build Vorons now. But when I see misguided hate for the company I like to add my two cents.
@@dangerous8333 "I am not a creality fanboy but here's a several paragraph reply about how you're a shithead for not buying a printer from them" Bud, I didn't kill your dog or anything. I bought a 3D printer based on feedback from a bunch of people, new and experienced, on the printers they owned. Sure an Ender 3v2 would be cheaper, but I also just wanted to print things. Not spend a few weeks buying new parts and dicking with the thing to actually get it level. Do you pop off like this at new users buying Prusa too? Sometimes people just want something that works out of the box and paying a little more for tighter QC and not having to rely on community fixes is acceptable. Creality definitely bought printing to the masses, but that doesn't mean they've continued to be the go-to for every need. What a weird thing to become an elitist over.
I never needed a runout sensor. Knowing beforehand if your spool lasts is the way to go. I really like my Sovol SV06! They're the most reliable ones I had beside my BIQU B1
I have been using one for about a week now. It's quite a nice printer without considering price, considering price it's an amazing printer. Some prints are actually looking better on this machine than on my Ender 5 S1 under klipper, somewhat disheartening :-) I do have the minor but clearly visible banding in the Z axis on some prints, just as you noticed. First thought is to repack the bearings with good grease and very carefully clean the Z axis lead screws and nuts. If that doesn't do the trick then RJ4JP Igus Drylin bearings are just over $1 USD a piece in 12 packs from Amazon in the US. Once all of that is done we'll all realize it's some silly configuration issue with the controller... Although it's been years since my Ender 3 V2 was new and stock, it seems the print quality and speed are both superior on this printer. As always, a fine video, thank you for all the great information over the years, looks like the synth rack is growing a bit as well! If you get a chance, you might enjoy playing around with Arturia Pigments, although it sadly is not linux native.
Poor sentence structure on my part! The SV06 does better in most cases than the Ender3V2, the Ender 3 S1 Pro, and even the Ender 5 S1. The Ender 5 S1 is far more reliable now as I've sorted out the gantry assembly and alignment issues originally in the printer, but I still watch the first layer start up and sometimes need to tweak the Z offset a bit. My E3V2 has some mods that make it closer, but the Sovol, like my RatRig VMinion, just works and works well, while the three Creality printers always require a close watch for at least part of the first layer as the bed level and Z offset seem to wander a bit with the Creality machines.@@LUCKYRABITT
One of the main turnoffs for me is how big the extruder and hot end all looks attached to the rail slider assembly. It feels it has a very large rectangular area really close to the bed that would make sequential printing a lot more difficult.
if you want sequential printing getting conveyor type bed printer. sequential printing on a normal printer is a bodge not a expected or planned for feature due to constraints on the style
I have this printer and I can confirm everything you said about it, including the weak part cooling and the weird z banding that doesn't really affect prints much.
Had mine since christmas...I print 80-100 speed with fantastic accuracy. Love this thing. In an enclosure I print abs for functional parts..does it much better than my artillery. WELL worth the price, extremely capably little printer.
I've had the SV06 for a while now and I can confirm that the cooling is pretty bad. It's pretty much unable to deal with longer overhangs that the original Ender 3 would print with no issues. My specific unit also had an issue where the calibration grid would be slightly skewed after calibration, though this could be worked around by manually turning one of the Z axes - it does not need calibration before every print, so that's something you only need to do once. Other than that, it has pretty much worked with everything out of the box!
Yeah and the funny thing is that the new version uses the same cooling setup but with a volcano nozzle so sovol claims it can print at up to 150mm/s which just isn't happening lol. I had to install a new fan on mine just to hit 80mm/s.
i pickeds this up a year ago. Its amazing. Compared to what i spent on my prusa this thing does not diisapoint. I use it as a .4 mostly pla. Keep my prusa on a .6 . Ive used mk3 profile and adjust bed size and made a profile. However the update gave us a preset for the machine, But i would say eassily the best 250 i ever spent. love this thing. I did replace bearing and that quieted it down to basicall sound like my prusa minus the fan of course which really is not that loud. The one negative ill give it is the white grid on the bed sometimes comes off on the print. especially with petg. IDK why its even there but hey
I bought an SV06+ that came with a warped bed and was never able to reliably complete a clean print even after Sovol sent me a replacement (which took a month to arrive from China). Bed adhesion issues, spaghetti, system errors, and other things kept happening. Problems with the nozzle welding itself to the heating block at higher temperatures caused me to order replacement hot ends. Planetary drive would chew up filament and cause jams more than I wanted. I would literally have to watch the print from the very start to the end and jump on the power switch if something went wrong. I gave up on the SV06+ and bought a CoreXY printer and it was the greatest purchase I've ever made. If you want headaches and problems, buy a Sovol. Otherwise, save up and buy a Bambu Labs printer if you are tired of the endless fussing, adjusting and reprinting over and over. Good luck.
I've had the SV06 since Christmas. It's my first 3D printer and I love it. In the meantime I have retrofitted a filament sensor and the cooling fan has moved to the back. There are already mods in the scene to print out. For example a filament guide. The Ender3 spool holder fits as well as the Ender3 cover for the back of the display. Maybe I'll print out a Prusa on the SV06 ;-)
The sv06 certainly has some pros and cons straight out of the box, but with a price of around $255, it's hard to beat. Considering how much sovol cares about their customers and printers is greatly different from other companies. **cough cough creality cough** It's an amazing starter printer and an amazing way to start your new hobby.
It's not a bad printer, especially for the price. But I warn every potential buyer that there is a good chance that it's going to require some amount of tinkering to get going. Mine had bed leveling issues, and and linear bearing was bust straight from the factory, it had to be replaced. And bed leveling issues went away only after doing the nylock mod. From the user Facebook group poll, about 1/3 of the shipped units have some problems, bigger or smaller. Once it works it's pretty great though.
Could you point out this FB group? I've ordered this 3d printer few days ago, and waiting for delivery, but I guess it'll be very helpful to be on such group in case of any problems :)
I drunk ordered one after watching this video at 2am when he uploaded it (never drink and TH-cam). Put it together today and I must have got lucky because I've found zero problems. Only done the one test print so far though, so fingers crossed
Had lots of issues since. 50% my fault, but a few factory faults. Loose screws being one but then my tightening it with the lead screw a little too high, that's on me. Tonight the extruder entirely stopped extruding. Stepper is still turning, it's just not turning any of the gears inside. So I'm going to have to fully disassemble it all again (didn't need to the last time it turns out, but I got some TPU REALLY jammed in there. You just need to unscrew the filament spring lever fully, it pulls down and you can see inside. Manual didn't mention that). That's how I know it isn't turning anything in there though, so I really do need to disassemble it this time
However, every successful print is really good actually. And they have almost all been fully successful. One catastrophically bad failure, pumped out the silicone heat cover and 9 hours of filament into one massive shrimp like melted lump of PLA. Hardened around all the wires and up into the fan ducts. Heated it up to remove it but unfortunately it really had the thermistor cable in it, and it disconnected it from the board. I'd got most of it removed by then, but the thin cables were still stuck in the mass, and it took quite some time to very carefully extract them.
Extruder stopped turning despite the stepper motor still turning. Turns out the screw holding the extruder gear up the planetary spindle was loose, had been grinding into the metal housing so there were quite a few metal shards in there before it jammed out and the spindle was rotating on its own. Once I managed to get it out of the housing fixed it ok, but yeah that's at least 2 of those screws that definitely weren't tight enough on leaving the factory. Glad I didn't have to replace the entire housing etc though
This printer was such a headache for me. The top bar for the z alignment process was warped and the bed was not flat so I couldnt get a nice even layer, ended up getting a mk4
On some other dual-z printers like this I've certainly found having a warp-free bed (glass, usually, instead of flimsy flexible sheets) and a z-axis sync belt are crucial for long-term reliability... I'm sure a belt would be an easy mod on this. edit: oh yeah that inductive probe levelling needing fine tuning afterward too... rip. I don't understand why everyone doesn't use strain gauge levelling, it's genuinely more expensive to use inductive probes, both in individual printer kits and bulk-ordering as a manufacturer...
@@Carglouche. Angus mentioned it already but it keeps both Z axis positions in sync so the gantry did not skew (which can cause bed leveling problems as well as just generally break/wear down the machine, particularly a unit with no endstops)
I don’t know why Prusa and Sovol and others don’t use tap style leveling. It’s a perfect system that gives EXACT nozzle height and they measure while hot. My ankermake has never had a bad first layer in 2000hrs
Two main questions: (1) Which thermal break is compatible with hotend? (2) Is LA supported by firmware? It is crucial for fast and precise prints Not mentioning LA support in review surprises me, it is the most important feature for direct extruder printers!
In all my time have never seen the term LA... If you mean Linear Advance, then it is already enabled and calibrated in the stock firmware, plus can be adjusted directly on the screen like many advanced settings. Plus you don't have to use stock firmware of course.
I picked up an SV06 as my first printer a few months ago now and Ive had some issues with it but thats probably more to do with my lack of experience with 3d printing. But Ive gotten a lot of it worked out and other than almost everything I print having a random notch in its surface at one point (I swear to god this is random and I have no idea what it causing it) Its printing everything really well.
The open source piece is crucially important here; it should be par for the course it's just unfortunate that so many play fast and loose with licensing, due to in practice being beyond the reach of any real penalty. So, good to see Sovol honouring it for the mechanical design derived from the Mk3, and the firmware from Marlin. In practical terms, that means it's easy and reliable to go about designing mechanical modifications and adjusting firmware, and that in turn means the negatives mentioned (no filament runout detection on the print head, poor part-cooling fan arrangement) can easily be remedied. Note however, as far as I can tell the main board itself is not open? I can't see schematics and layouts/stackup on the github ( they're not required to publish them as far as I can tell, so no problem on that front). Not sure if the board is fused (c.f. the BTT boards) or how good the power regulation circuits are, etc.
The PCB files are on the SV06 repo, but I haven’t found schematics anywhere. You could get the same info from the PCB files, especially since it has net names in place, but it’s a bit of a pain in the butt.
Thanks for the video - I like to adjust conservatively for nozzle height, then tweak z offset on the first layer. This avoids print bed gouge. Not all printers/firmwares offer z offset as an easy tune-while-printing option however. Looks like a nice printer.
Okay I was blown away with the build quality and ease of set up for the printer. I received the SV06 a couple weeks ago, but just as I was getting it tuned after a few hours of tests, I tried a g code post processing script to pause at a certain layer, and the g-code bricked my printer's mobo. I tried to reflash firmware, but no luck. I returned it and am considering just buying another Anycubic Vyper, which has been my most reliable machine yet
Watched this video drunk at 2am here in the UK, did not remember drunk purchasing one until 2 days later. It arrived yesterday (so that was quick) and I set it up earlier today and did the benchy test print (the SD card mine came with had only that on there interestingly). Printed out lovely, and it is very very quiet compared with my Ender-3. Z-hop is enabled by default on their cura profile, not sure why really, seems to leave ever so slight pulls at the edge of a top layer (like the sides on benchy where it ramps up). So I'll try disabling that. Biggest issue which would be confusing for anyone new to 3D printing was the probe z-offset, the instructions say to set it to 0.2mm, which is a little unclear. To get that height I had to set it -1.5mm. Other than that though, absolutely great so far.
7:00 any pointers on fixing this issue? Was it due to dual extruder gear slop, eccentric stepper shafts, or motor vibration? It seems to vary in intensity at certain feedrates. Also, your z layer consistency seems slightly worse than on mine
I love your channel but I note that you have never reviewed a Tevo printer and I have had one for two years and its a great printer and all the Tevo printers are really good.
I got this printer based on the many positive reviews. Yours is the first I have seen that even mentions some of the problems I have with mine. One major one is assuming that bed leveling even works. Most people are printing on the center of the bed and thats great for most models. Try printing something in the corners and see if your settings still work. Mine do not. The bed is a potato chip. After firmware changes and nylock nut mods I can use about 80% of the bed. The bed is only attached with 5 screws so that mode is limited. Bearings were actually losing balls and had to replaced. Cooling fan is a joke.
The whole point of mesh levelling is that it accounts for the bed not being perfect (which is practically not possible to source, particularly at this price). My experience hasn't been perfect but I've done full bed prints no problem with stock mesh levelling. One theory I saw as that they increased the strength of the magnet for the bed on later units after feedback (which is weird, I think a gentler magnet is better) and it is interfering with the conductive sensor.
@@cenciende9401 I glad you have a better experience but its a bit of survivor bias. You had no issues so other must not be either. Bed leveling works within a certain tolerance. I switched to a user made firmware and got dramatically better results then stock firmware. Thats when I realized how bad the bed actually was. I leveled it as best I could and still have issues with certain areas. There just isnt enough mounting points to adjust that amount of warp. The FB page is filled with people having the same issues. If a censor cant work on a magnetic bed then they need a thicker printing sheet to keep the print from pulling it up. I understand its a budget printer but these reviewers are not showing the whole story. THats why I am grateful for a video review like this one that actually mention the problems and design flaws.
I have an SV-01 and it's been a workhorse. I mostly print TPU with it. It replaced five Qidi 3D printers that had proprietary parts that I had trouble sourcing to maintain the printers. I'd like to find a good workhorse 3D printer that was enclosed for printing ABS, but with the reliability and maintainability of the SV-01.
I'm so glad I got my flsun v400. I don't understand most of what you said, which is why I got it. Plug and play. Auto bed leveling, filament runout detection, it just works. I'm an engineer who's fully capable of going full tilt on 3d printers and understanding all the tech to the nth degree, I'm just not interested in doing that
Hey Angus (and the comments), I've been wondering for ages where the "now it's time to explore our microscope world" line from your info comes from? I've done some research but I can't find anything
They must be trying to get the word out about their printers because they're releasing a Plus sized one in the near future with many of the things you pointed out were missing (filament runout sensor and a touch screen). It looks like it'd be a fun printer if there's a mod available to give it better cooling.
I sold my Ender 5 Plus for one of these. Big downgrade in volume of course, but everything else has been much less frustrating and reliable. The badly designed cooling fan is pretty much the only criticism I have. I'm in the middle of doing Scattered Collectables' cooling duct mod right now.
I have an ender 3 pro and it's absolutely goddamn annoying. Constantly unleveling, failing, needing adjustment etc. Can literally print maybe one item before having to screw with it for 3 hours.
@@enb3810 For what it's worth, I ordered my (original) SV06 during one of the pre-order phases and it shipped a whole month earlier than projected. Not a guarantee for the future of course, but at least they're not full of shit with their preorders :)
Just watch out with sovol support, I have an SV04 and I've had a lot of difficulties getting consistent prints, their firmware sucks, bed offset isn't very consistent but luckily the facebook community is very active and has people that build their own firmware for the machine and like to help. It's a lot smaller than Creality community and mods are harder to find
any chance you could share your print settings? I am curious about your retraction and flow values because this is where I seem to have issues with this machine. Stringing and dimensional accuracy is just not on par with the other machines
I did the same thing and destroyed my bed, glad I wasn't the only one haha. I ended up ordering some 1.5mm g10, I have to leave the old plate underneath otherwise it won't work when homing. I would recommend going to a 1mm sheet though
I dislike when manufacturers make a hotend where you cannot see the nozzle easily during prints - it's especially important on the first layer (obviously). This printer is terrible in that regard.
I put a sprite pro onto an ender3 clone. The extra temperature head room came in handy when I put a Hardened steel nozzle on for glow in the dark. The petg I normally print with prints at 240, so it was nice to be able print at 255 and not need to change nozzles.
I absolutely prefer V-slot rollers over rods and linear bearings in any day of the week. Linear bearings are noisy and usually wear out much faster than the common POM/delrin rollers. And they need lubrication that attracts dust and grime like hell. Not to mention how rigid V-slot profiles are compared to these surface hardened rods.
Prusa really needs to revise the MK3 design to add some of the features especially the way the extruder assembly is so easily removed without having to deal with the large bundle of wires.
I have had one for almost a year now. Had a few teething issues, replaced the parts fans with better ones as I started to get heat creep after a while. New fans got rid of that. One note - the SD card slot is a spring release one and is UPSIDE DOWN due to the motherboard being mounted inverted at the top of the case. I busted mine inserting the card because due to the spring it felt like it was going. in. I replaced the motherboard at my cost (I busted it). The runout detection will probably need you to tweak it, got some false stops and opened the box and tweaked the adjustments and it hasn't repeated. The printer MUST be in the proper MODE before you print. I would have thought the slicer would have put GCODE at the beginning to set it to the appropriate mode but it doesn't. If I knew what these codes were I would add them to the slicer. But I'm very happy with it. It just runs and runs and makes great prints. Another thing to be aware of, a lot of the parts are Creality - the 32 bit motherboard, the fans, and the graphical display.
In my experience with more recent low budget printers (for example the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro), the weakest link is becoming the firmware. There is so much 'copying' from Prusa in terms of features and functionality I kinda wish companies like Elegoo, Sovol, etc, would also incorporate the quality of life features found in Prusa's firmware (autoleveling on print start, filament changing, how the menu's are set up and controlled, etc). All in all, like you observed with the filament run-out sensor and cheaper bearings, I think folks would be generally be more than willing to pay 50 euro/pound/dollar more for such a printer if those minor drawbacks were properly addressed. Printers like this would then really be good value for money.
Maybe there could be software filament run out feature that goes by weight of the filament entered by user as a last resort. A warning and option for slowing printing for a scheduled swap.
Please have some information on customer support when looking at printers.. Yes, prusa is to expensive.. BUT is there anyone that has a similar support level 24/7 as prusa? Great for beginners not knowing what the printer does and need quick info and live help getting started.
can you share your Prusa Slicer profile? I am having serious gantry leveling issues on mine and no matter what I do i cant get the right side to be level :(
With my Sovol sv06 both z-axis profile where bent within a few months. I don't think the printer can handle normal sized spools and it's a design flaw. Sovol also can't supply spare parts so the printer is garbage now.
I bought one as an emergency backup to my original Prusa I3 Mk3. Turns out it actually prints better than my Prusa, so now I'm using both. There are already people designing new fans and such. Also a couple people installing and running Klipper with input shaping and getting print speeds comparable to the Bamboo X1. To Sovol's credit, they took the leap that Prusa refused to take and designed extrusion molds for the major parts. This brings their costs down significantly in bulk sales and produces higher accuracy parts.
would love to know how reliable it’s been compared to your prusa after getting it tuned , i have 2 and was looking for a cheaper alternative
Have you any links to the speed mods? I am looking for a backup for my X1C and even if it could reach 80% of the speed that would make me happy
A klipperized bed slinger, built really well will have an acceleration significantly lower than any core XY. So will never achieve CoreXY print speed, but can reduce the gap.
@@Project.3.D months later.. still printing better than my 3yo prusa.
It can come nowhere near a bambu. It's not possible for any bed slinger. I have a ender 3 s1 with klipper and the best I can hope for is 150mm with 3500 acceleration. That is like the max where I can retain acceptable quality. A bambu can do 500mms and 20000 accel. They are not comparable. It's more comparable then a stock a stock ender 3 s1, but still two different ball parks.
There's a guy in the Sovol community named Rory Game who has worked his butt off making optimized firmwares, mods, and slicer profiles for several of the Sovol models. He has adressed most of the major shortcomings the Sovol printers tend to have.
Sovol is a scam printers dont work company doesnt actuakky exist. All thier corporate phone numbers and emails are disconected and dont actually exist
As a beginner It was Very hard to me make It work, thank the community I fixes ALL my problems and now is working very well. Changing the firmware worked the best for me
Its encouraging that Sovol seem to be treating the open source nature of these printers seriously, with proper STEP files etc. While companies like Creality have done much to bring 3D printing to the masses, their commitment to open source is poor to say the least. It looks to me like this printer would be an ideal base for someone who wants to print but will also want to tinker with the machine - there certainly seem to be a couple of issues that need looking at - but to me the price seems very good for a printer that seems to have generally favorable reviews where I have seen it.
Don't let it fool you. Their customer support is almost non existent and they aren't at all helpful when they actually reply. And they're moving towards proprietary components on top of it.
@cas curse The nozzle thread and length are the same as a Volcano, the tip just looks different
@@the_game_1237 it's actually about 2mm longer than a standard volcano
I love mine, I bought it and the Klipper upgrade at the same time for my first printer in June and only had issues on day 1. Apparently I screwed up my z-offset towards the end of my first day so when I woke up day 2 I ignored the internet's advice and used feeler gauges instead of paper and have had ZERO issues since and it's basically been running nonstop since.
My Z end-stops aren't square so I use 1-2-3 blocks to ensure the gantry is level to the bed occasionally.
I'd love to see a standard sound measurement for printers. Say, dB level at 1 meter. I'm very sensitive to whining noises and (successfully) replaced all the fans on my Ender 3v2 with Noctua fans to quiet it down.
It's something I've always thought about but don't have a good repeatable environment. I'm ultra sensitive to sound and found this printer to be really quiet, the steppers don't make a high pitch whine unlike the bambu p1p's when energised which is nice.
@@MakersMuse oh thank god other people get that whine aswell I thought I was going crazy
Be careful noctua fans do not provide the same amount of cooling.
@@MakersMuse leave this one to cnc kitchen I feel like with his testing methodology he would come up with a good repeatable db test
Uhh noctua makes a lot of different fans, which ones are you saying don't work as well as which other fans?
Thanks for reviewing the Sovol SV06 and congrats on the new book!
Been a fan since I first got into 3D printing on a whim, more or less. I have only been printing now for about 18 months and I now have two printers and I am searching for what my third one will be already. I really have valued your completely honest reviews as well as all the things I have learned about the ins and outs of the 3D printing world. For now its still a hobby, but I have been able to make enough money with it that it pays for itself and even allows me to acquire more printers. Keep up all of the outstanding work and reviews!
craigslist is a good source, a lot of people buy printers without realizing it takes a certain mind
@@Tater1337 Yeah I guess I never thought about that. I will have to see what I can find. Thanks for the tip!
I'm actually loving my SV06 - it worked straight out of the box, using the Cura profile they provide on the SD card, the only change I made was to up the speed to 80mm/s.
Took a bit of a risk in buying this printer as none of the channels I trust had produced a review on it yet.
I've put approximately eighty print hours through mine by now, every single print has come out almost perfect - aside from a bit of wispy stuff, but that's potentially my temp setings for my filament. Admittedly, I've not tried any "torture test" style prints, and the longest print so far has been about fourteen hours.
Obvious disclaimers apply - I'm just a 3D printing scrub, my only other machine being an Ender 3 V2 Neo.
Thanks Angus for putting this video out there, love your work mate.
Mine has been nothing but problems
@@outsidecounty9976 what problems have you had?
@@Darenz-cg9zg i figured them out i actually would recommend getting an sv06. i see problems about a warped bed and such but my problems were user error. theres great groups on facebook and reddit when you need help.
Angus thank you. I have been debating weather to get a new printer, Prusa, or Ender or another of several on the market. I saw the Sovol SV06 Plus by chance, the price is within range and I had to see how you reviewed it. I watched a couple review vids and I'm sold. I'm not a pro with 3D but I do have high standards of what I need and want out of a machine, and your review solidified my choice.
I don't necessarily *need* the 3D Printing Tips and Tricks, I'll but it anyway because I'm sure there is a lot of good info, and I just want to support your channel! All of your videos are well-thought-out and very concise. You have really helped me and the community at large. Cheers, Angus!
Prusa raus und FLSUN rein Bin ich froh das ich den Prusa los bin. Und mein Nachbar wegen (trotz Wärmebox und Unterlagen) auch. Aufgebaut war er in 40 Minuten. Einrichtung sehr einfach. Macht seine Arbeit sehr gut. Dies ist meine erste Glasplatte. Es war absolut unmöglich die Bauteile zu Beginn von der Glasplatte zu lösen. Dank sehr Gutem Support 3d Jake musste ich nur paar Sprüher mit Glasreiniger auf die abgekühlte Plattform machen. Und etwas warten. Und schon war es ohne Spachtel möglich. Der Druck war in meinen Händen. Ich habe die gleichen Modelle gedruckt wie beim Prusa MK3S+ und sie waren gar nicht wieder zu erkennen. So genau ins Detail und selbst ein Drache (Cults) war endlich ansehbar. Bin sehr froh das ich den FLSUN bei 3d Jake gekauft habe. Vielen Dank.+ Verpackung+ Design+ Geschwindigkeit+ Genauigkeit+ Lautstärke (nur Lüfter zu hören)+ Pflegeleicht+ Glasplatte reicht vollkommen (Upgrade auf PEI möglich)+ Preis+ Support- zu spät für den FLSUN entschieden
The toolhead already has a plug for a runout sensor and the new SV06 Plus has one as standard. I think Sovol will sell the senzor as a plug in upgrade for the SV06 as well.
I tested many printers and honestly I love what sovol is doing. For this price it's difficult to find better products out of the box.
You are absolutely one of the best reviewers on this platform. No politics, no drama, just honest and straightforward. It’s like you’re on an island in this game. But it’s well received.
Never seen any politics or drama from any 3D printing content creator/reviewer... I don't know what obscure channels you were finding lol
I bought the Sovol SV06 as my second 3D printer, it's an amazing printer for the price, it prints great, the auto-leveling works flawlessly, and it was super easy to put together and start using.
It's quieter than my first printer (Mega Zero 2.0), but it is still quite loud, and I tried applying some grease to the metal rods, and it quieted things down a bit, but it still isn't silent.
would you recommend as a second printer?
Its a great printer and awesome community around it. The SV06 PLUS was released yesterday which I caved in and pre-ordered :)
I had a filament jam in my MK3s today and it took me a couple of minutes to clear it. I love my Prusa and it has printed 5.4Km of filament. It was worth the money.
One thing I've run into with inexpensive printers is skew during full bed prints. I print functional things vs. models most of the time. I would love to see more reviews include things like skew testing. I was able to fix it using Marlin's skew correction. Before my sub $300 printer I never gave it a lot of thought, now I do. It was fun to learn building and compiling my own version of the firmware, but I'd rather be printing. :)
I love it when I get a notification that one of my print designs has been remixed, I hope Prusa appreciate how much everyone uses their open source designs, because their printers are a benchmark to live up to.
One problem I see with open source in this sort of situation is that manufacturers often only go as far as making their product just usable, it's like they leave it up to the community to tidy up the loose ends and make their own fixes/enhancements, precisely why I started out with a Prusa i3 Mk3 nearly 5 years ago, which is still going strong, I've barely done anything to it except perhaps design a better, more ergonomic & easier to use control knob for the LCD (thing 4330049).
Minor nitpick here. Prusa did not open source their printer designs because they did not have proprietary control over it. To your second point, I think that the quality of low budged 3D printers has improved a lot in recent time. The SV06 is a pretty incredible machine at its price point. When I got into 3D printing I also started out with a Prusa because I wanted the hassle free experience. However, today it's much harder to justify the Prusa premium because others have gotten so much better.
I bought an SV06 a few weeks back as my first printer as it seemed like a good entry point. Full metal hotend, clone of a decent design, not stuck with Crealitys' lack of support. It's been a very nice experience as a novice to be honest, easy to set up, easy to calibrate. The only issue I've had out of the box was not realising the belts needed a decent once over after loosening during shipping. But that's just beginners junk. A slightly bigger build platform would be nice for printing props and stuff, and a filament runout would be great too. But Sovol just announced the SV06 Plus which has both of those and a volcano hotend. So I timed my purchase very well.
Oh yeah, installing a runout sensor aftermarket seems pretty simple. There's a little socket on the side of the extruder that handles the input, and just runs to the DET port on the board if you want to not have a random cable running to the extruder. I've got one shipping to me now to give it a shot. It's a bit of a pain finding this info out without happening across specific reddit threads. There's a bunch of features in their Marlin config enabled that they just didn't talk about too like G2/G3 arc support and M155 temp report support. So you can use those if you like tweaking gcode defaults.
Creality's lack of support? Huh? 😂
What support do you need from them? The community is always better anyway, and it's one of the biggest communities around. I've never once needed Creality for anything. In fact, since the internet has been invented I've never once needed the company of any products I buy, for anything. I literally go straight to forums or TH-cam. 😂
You probably read that from other noobs and just took it as gospel.
I love these posts. A noob buys their first machine and thinks it's the best and comes on TH-cam and goes "I got the best machine and I don't have to deal with this this and this, then they realize, just like prusa owners, that oh, I am running into the same issues, I do have to still make upgrades. I am going to have to learn basic electronics and how a machine works"
Doh!
Truth of the matter is my guy. If you have some decent skills you can buy the cheaper printer and make it better than the Prusa for less than $400. That's a skill. You also don't need the company for support. I know Prusa people love to talk about the support they get lmao, as if that's somehow a reason to spend $800 on a bed slinger when the same support is on TH-cam and other places.
I love all my Enders. My first E3V2 is still going strong and all I did was all metal hotend, ABL, bed spacers and jyers firmware. People can claim their printers are better but the proof is in the prints. I now have printers that are faster but that Ender prints beautifully. I have no issues with the glass beds or first layers either.
The reason you think creality printers have problems is because they're cheaper and noobs buy them that have no skills and don't know what they're dealing with. These are the same people that will just throw money at it thinking more upgrades will solve their problems.
Thankfully there are companies who are willing to sell us the cheaper machines and leave it up to those of us that are skilled enough to upgrade it. Otherwise I would be stuck spending hundreds of more dollars for a product that comes with part I might have to replace anyway. I don't need a company to do all my upgrades. Nor do I want them to. I would like to choose my upgrades and how much I'm willing to spend on them.
I love creality. They brought 3D printing to the masses. Just ordered their Falcon 2.
I'm not a Creality fanboy. I build Vorons now. But when I see misguided hate for the company I like to add my two cents.
@@dangerous8333 Don't be an asshole.
@@dangerous8333 "I am not a creality fanboy but here's a several paragraph reply about how you're a shithead for not buying a printer from them"
Bud, I didn't kill your dog or anything. I bought a 3D printer based on feedback from a bunch of people, new and experienced, on the printers they owned. Sure an Ender 3v2 would be cheaper, but I also just wanted to print things. Not spend a few weeks buying new parts and dicking with the thing to actually get it level. Do you pop off like this at new users buying Prusa too? Sometimes people just want something that works out of the box and paying a little more for tighter QC and not having to rely on community fixes is acceptable. Creality definitely bought printing to the masses, but that doesn't mean they've continued to be the go-to for every need.
What a weird thing to become an elitist over.
Love a happy Angus video, these are a joy to ones day.
Your start Gcode has two M900 commands. The second one "M900 W H D" at 6:17 isn't a valid command, is it?
I never needed a runout sensor. Knowing beforehand if your spool lasts is the way to go. I really like my Sovol SV06! They're the most reliable ones I had beside my BIQU B1
A runout sensor is great for using up all those spool ends on functional prints. Print until you get the alert, load another spool end and carry on.
I have been using one for about a week now. It's quite a nice printer without considering price, considering price it's an amazing printer. Some prints are actually looking better on this machine than on my Ender 5 S1 under klipper, somewhat disheartening :-) I do have the minor but clearly visible banding in the Z axis on some prints, just as you noticed. First thought is to repack the bearings with good grease and very carefully clean the Z axis lead screws and nuts. If that doesn't do the trick then RJ4JP Igus Drylin bearings are just over $1 USD a piece in 12 packs from Amazon in the US. Once all of that is done we'll all realize it's some silly configuration issue with the controller...
Although it's been years since my Ender 3 V2 was new and stock, it seems the print quality and speed are both superior on this printer. As always, a fine video, thank you for all the great information over the years, looks like the synth rack is growing a bit as well! If you get a chance, you might enjoy playing around with Arturia Pigments, although it sadly is not linux native.
U telling that ender 3 v2 is better quality print than soval and ender 5 s ?
Poor sentence structure on my part! The SV06 does better in most cases than the Ender3V2, the Ender 3 S1 Pro, and even the Ender 5 S1. The Ender 5 S1 is far more reliable now as I've sorted out the gantry assembly and alignment issues originally in the printer, but I still watch the first layer start up and sometimes need to tweak the Z offset a bit. My E3V2 has some mods that make it closer, but the Sovol, like my RatRig VMinion, just works and works well, while the three Creality printers always require a close watch for at least part of the first layer as the bed level and Z offset seem to wander a bit with the Creality machines.@@LUCKYRABITT
One of the main turnoffs for me is how big the extruder and hot end all looks attached to the rail slider assembly. It feels it has a very large rectangular area really close to the bed that would make sequential printing a lot more difficult.
Agreed, it's quite chunky. Good for more filament control however vs a bowden extruder.
if you want sequential printing getting conveyor type bed printer. sequential printing on a normal printer is a bodge not a expected or planned for feature due to constraints on the style
I've had plenty of luck with sequential printing on my Prusa Mini. YMMV I suppose.
Bought one about a week ago, super satisfied by it so far
I really like my SV06. Today. I put in a pre-order for the SVO6 Plus.
I have a Sovol SV01 Pro and despite a kind of janky extruder and quality control issues its a very nice machine for the money.
I have this printer and I can confirm everything you said about it, including the weak part cooling and the weird z banding that doesn't really affect prints much.
Had mine since christmas...I print 80-100 speed with fantastic accuracy. Love this thing. In an enclosure I print abs for functional parts..does it much better than my artillery. WELL worth the price, extremely capably little printer.
I've had the SV06 for a while now and I can confirm that the cooling is pretty bad. It's pretty much unable to deal with longer overhangs that the original Ender 3 would print with no issues. My specific unit also had an issue where the calibration grid would be slightly skewed after calibration, though this could be worked around by manually turning one of the Z axes - it does not need calibration before every print, so that's something you only need to do once. Other than that, it has pretty much worked with everything out of the box!
Yeah and the funny thing is that the new version uses the same cooling setup but with a volcano nozzle so sovol claims it can print at up to 150mm/s which just isn't happening lol. I had to install a new fan on mine just to hit 80mm/s.
i pickeds this up a year ago. Its amazing. Compared to what i spent on my prusa this thing does not diisapoint. I use it as a .4 mostly pla. Keep my prusa on a .6 . Ive used mk3 profile and adjust bed size and made a profile. However the update gave us a preset for the machine, But i would say eassily the best 250 i ever spent. love this thing. I did replace bearing and that quieted it down to basicall sound like my prusa minus the fan of course which really is not that loud. The one negative ill give it is the white grid on the bed sometimes comes off on the print. especially with petg. IDK why its even there but hey
I bought an SV06+ that came with a warped bed and was never able to reliably complete a clean print even after Sovol sent me a replacement (which took a month to arrive from China). Bed adhesion issues, spaghetti, system errors, and other things kept happening. Problems with the nozzle welding itself to the heating block at higher temperatures caused me to order replacement hot ends. Planetary drive would chew up filament and cause jams more than I wanted. I would literally have to watch the print from the very start to the end and jump on the power switch if something went wrong.
I gave up on the SV06+ and bought a CoreXY printer and it was the greatest purchase I've ever made. If you want headaches and problems, buy a Sovol. Otherwise, save up and buy a Bambu Labs printer if you are tired of the endless fussing, adjusting and reprinting over and over. Good luck.
I've had the SV06 since Christmas. It's my first 3D printer and I love it. In the meantime I have retrofitted a filament sensor and the cooling fan has moved to the back. There are already mods in the scene to print out. For example a filament guide. The Ender3 spool holder fits as well as the Ender3 cover for the back of the display.
Maybe I'll print out a Prusa on the SV06 ;-)
Awesome video as always, quite interesting in the quality you got out of something at that price point.
The sv06 certainly has some pros and cons straight out of the box, but with a price of around $255, it's hard to beat. Considering how much sovol cares about their customers and printers is greatly different from other companies. **cough cough creality cough** It's an amazing starter printer and an amazing way to start your new hobby.
It's not a bad printer, especially for the price. But I warn every potential buyer that there is a good chance that it's going to require some amount of tinkering to get going. Mine had bed leveling issues, and and linear bearing was bust straight from the factory, it had to be replaced. And bed leveling issues went away only after doing the nylock mod. From the user Facebook group poll, about 1/3 of the shipped units have some problems, bigger or smaller. Once it works it's pretty great though.
Could you point out this FB group? I've ordered this 3d printer few days ago, and waiting for delivery, but I guess it'll be very helpful to be on such group in case of any problems :)
I drunk ordered one after watching this video at 2am when he uploaded it (never drink and TH-cam). Put it together today and I must have got lucky because I've found zero problems. Only done the one test print so far though, so fingers crossed
Had lots of issues since. 50% my fault, but a few factory faults. Loose screws being one but then my tightening it with the lead screw a little too high, that's on me. Tonight the extruder entirely stopped extruding. Stepper is still turning, it's just not turning any of the gears inside. So I'm going to have to fully disassemble it all again (didn't need to the last time it turns out, but I got some TPU REALLY jammed in there. You just need to unscrew the filament spring lever fully, it pulls down and you can see inside. Manual didn't mention that). That's how I know it isn't turning anything in there though, so I really do need to disassemble it this time
However, every successful print is really good actually. And they have almost all been fully successful. One catastrophically bad failure, pumped out the silicone heat cover and 9 hours of filament into one massive shrimp like melted lump of PLA. Hardened around all the wires and up into the fan ducts. Heated it up to remove it but unfortunately it really had the thermistor cable in it, and it disconnected it from the board. I'd got most of it removed by then, but the thin cables were still stuck in the mass, and it took quite some time to very carefully extract them.
Extruder stopped turning despite the stepper motor still turning. Turns out the screw holding the extruder gear up the planetary spindle was loose, had been grinding into the metal housing so there were quite a few metal shards in there before it jammed out and the spindle was rotating on its own. Once I managed to get it out of the housing fixed it ok, but yeah that's at least 2 of those screws that definitely weren't tight enough on leaving the factory. Glad I didn't have to replace the entire housing etc though
can't wait for the SV06 Plus, bigger bed and better hotend.
This printer was such a headache for me. The top bar for the z alignment process was warped and the bed was not flat so I couldnt get a nice even layer, ended up getting a mk4
On some other dual-z printers like this I've certainly found having a warp-free bed (glass, usually, instead of flimsy flexible sheets) and a z-axis sync belt are crucial for long-term reliability... I'm sure a belt would be an easy mod on this.
edit: oh yeah that inductive probe levelling needing fine tuning afterward too... rip. I don't understand why everyone doesn't use strain gauge levelling, it's genuinely more expensive to use inductive probes, both in individual printer kits and bulk-ordering as a manufacturer...
Noob here. Why would you want a sync belt ? Wouldn’t that defeat the purpose of the bed leveling ?
@@Carglouche. Angus mentioned it already but it keeps both Z axis positions in sync so the gantry did not skew (which can cause bed leveling problems as well as just generally break/wear down the machine, particularly a unit with no endstops)
Very impressive the clearance tests. I can’t believe this did better than the ankermake you just reviewed.
I don’t know why Prusa and Sovol and others don’t use tap style leveling. It’s a perfect system that gives EXACT nozzle height and they measure while hot. My ankermake has never had a bad first layer in 2000hrs
Two main questions: (1) Which thermal break is compatible with hotend? (2) Is LA supported by firmware? It is crucial for fast and precise prints
Not mentioning LA support in review surprises me, it is the most important feature for direct extruder printers!
In all my time have never seen the term LA... If you mean Linear Advance, then it is already enabled and calibrated in the stock firmware, plus can be adjusted directly on the screen like many advanced settings. Plus you don't have to use stock firmware of course.
@@cenciende9401 Linear Advance, yes. Thank you! It is good news, typical Prusa/Ender clone has it turned off on firmware level.
I picked up an SV06 as my first printer a few months ago now and Ive had some issues with it but thats probably more to do with my lack of experience with 3d printing. But Ive gotten a lot of it worked out and other than almost everything I print having a random notch in its surface at one point (I swear to god this is random and I have no idea what it causing it) Its printing everything really well.
The open source piece is crucially important here; it should be par for the course it's just unfortunate that so many play fast and loose with licensing, due to in practice being beyond the reach of any real penalty. So, good to see Sovol honouring it for the mechanical design derived from the Mk3, and the firmware from Marlin. In practical terms, that means it's easy and reliable to go about designing mechanical modifications and adjusting firmware, and that in turn means the negatives mentioned (no filament runout detection on the print head, poor part-cooling fan arrangement) can easily be remedied.
Note however, as far as I can tell the main board itself is not open? I can't see schematics and layouts/stackup on the github ( they're not required to publish them as far as I can tell, so no problem on that front). Not sure if the board is fused (c.f. the BTT boards) or how good the power regulation circuits are, etc.
The PCB files are on the SV06 repo, but I haven’t found schematics anywhere. You could get the same info from the PCB files, especially since it has net names in place, but it’s a bit of a pain in the butt.
I Klipperized my SV06 and have been absolutely loving it worlds better than my Aquila
Thanks for the video - I like to adjust conservatively for nozzle height, then tweak z offset on the first layer. This avoids print bed gouge. Not all printers/firmwares offer z offset as an easy tune-while-printing option however. Looks like a nice printer.
Pretty unexpected yet cool extruder design for a budget printer
Hey my bed looks like that too! Thanks for the review, it's my first printer and it's really working great out of the box!
Okay I was blown away with the build quality and ease of set up for the printer. I received the SV06 a couple weeks ago, but just as I was getting it tuned after a few hours of tests, I tried a g code post processing script to pause at a certain layer, and the g-code bricked my printer's mobo. I tried to reflash firmware, but no luck. I returned it and am considering just buying another Anycubic Vyper, which has been my most reliable machine yet
Watched this video drunk at 2am here in the UK, did not remember drunk purchasing one until 2 days later. It arrived yesterday (so that was quick) and I set it up earlier today and did the benchy test print (the SD card mine came with had only that on there interestingly). Printed out lovely, and it is very very quiet compared with my Ender-3.
Z-hop is enabled by default on their cura profile, not sure why really, seems to leave ever so slight pulls at the edge of a top layer (like the sides on benchy where it ramps up). So I'll try disabling that.
Biggest issue which would be confusing for anyone new to 3D printing was the probe z-offset, the instructions say to set it to 0.2mm, which is a little unclear. To get that height I had to set it -1.5mm. Other than that though, absolutely great so far.
I want one just because of the looks of it! This printer looks so nice!
3d printing enters the era of high-speed printing ，maybe you can try flsun v400
A very nice printer, I love the "Prusa" look.
7:00 any pointers on fixing this issue? Was it due to dual extruder gear slop, eccentric stepper shafts, or motor vibration? It seems to vary in intensity at certain feedrates.
Also, your z layer consistency seems slightly worse than on mine
Still testing to find the issue, it seems to be pretty common on them but tough to diagnose.
5:40 i did dissasemble my extruder but broke it in the process and had to buy a replacement
I love your channel but I note that you have never reviewed a Tevo printer and I have had one for two years and its a great printer and all the Tevo printers are really good.
I got this printer based on the many positive reviews. Yours is the first I have seen that even mentions some of the problems I have with mine. One major one is assuming that bed leveling even works. Most people are printing on the center of the bed and thats great for most models. Try printing something in the corners and see if your settings still work. Mine do not. The bed is a potato chip. After firmware changes and nylock nut mods I can use about 80% of the bed. The bed is only attached with 5 screws so that mode is limited. Bearings were actually losing balls and had to replaced. Cooling fan is a joke.
The whole point of mesh levelling is that it accounts for the bed not being perfect (which is practically not possible to source, particularly at this price). My experience hasn't been perfect but I've done full bed prints no problem with stock mesh levelling. One theory I saw as that they increased the strength of the magnet for the bed on later units after feedback (which is weird, I think a gentler magnet is better) and it is interfering with the conductive sensor.
@@cenciende9401 I glad you have a better experience but its a bit of survivor bias. You had no issues so other must not be either. Bed leveling works within a certain tolerance. I switched to a user made firmware and got dramatically better results then stock firmware. Thats when I realized how bad the bed actually was. I leveled it as best I could and still have issues with certain areas. There just isnt enough mounting points to adjust that amount of warp. The FB page is filled with people having the same issues. If a censor cant work on a magnetic bed then they need a thicker printing sheet to keep the print from pulling it up. I understand its a budget printer but these reviewers are not showing the whole story. THats why I am grateful for a video review like this one that actually mention the problems and design flaws.
I have an SV-01 and it's been a workhorse. I mostly print TPU with it. It replaced five Qidi 3D printers that had proprietary parts that I had trouble sourcing to maintain the printers. I'd like to find a good workhorse 3D printer that was enclosed for printing ABS, but with the reliability and maintainability of the SV-01.
Would be interested to see what upgrades and mods you would put on this printer.
Great review. Keep up the good work.
I have the SV04 IDEX it really is an amazing printer
I'm so glad I got my flsun v400. I don't understand most of what you said, which is why I got it. Plug and play. Auto bed leveling, filament runout detection, it just works. I'm an engineer who's fully capable of going full tilt on 3d printers and understanding all the tech to the nth degree, I'm just not interested in doing that
From one engineer to another...that is really sad 😉
Looks like the Sovol SV06 is listed in Cura 5.3 (if one needs a reference for settings elsewhere)
There are a lot of new products on the printer market and I think we should try some new ones like Bambu lab or FLSUN v400, they look good and wild.
Hey Angus (and the comments),
I've been wondering for ages where the "now it's time to explore our microscope world" line from your info comes from? I've done some research but I can't find anything
It's from a very old microscope toy advertisement, but I've lost the original source... 😩!
@@MakersMuse thank you so much for replying! That's an interesting backstory, and it's a shame you've lost it haha!
Do I see a DX7II series in the background?
DX7s ! Pretty fun to program haha
Why does it matter if there's a filament runout sensor? The print is pretty much ruined (or at the very least, compromised) anyway.
They must be trying to get the word out about their printers because they're releasing a Plus sized one in the near future with many of the things you pointed out were missing (filament runout sensor and a touch screen).
It looks like it'd be a fun printer if there's a mod available to give it better cooling.
I sold my Ender 5 Plus for one of these. Big downgrade in volume of course, but everything else has been much less frustrating and reliable. The badly designed cooling fan is pretty much the only criticism I have. I'm in the middle of doing Scattered Collectables' cooling duct mod right now.
Also my SD card only had a Benchy on it.
I have an ender 3 pro and it's absolutely goddamn annoying. Constantly unleveling, failing, needing adjustment etc. Can literally print maybe one item before having to screw with it for 3 hours.
They just came out with the plus sized sv06
@@elliot3147 doesn't count as "coming out with" if it's pre-order.
@@enb3810 For what it's worth, I ordered my (original) SV06 during one of the pre-order phases and it shipped a whole month earlier than projected. Not a guarantee for the future of course, but at least they're not full of shit with their preorders :)
Just watch out with sovol support, I have an SV04 and I've had a lot of difficulties getting consistent prints, their firmware sucks, bed offset isn't very consistent but luckily the facebook community is very active and has people that build their own firmware for the machine and like to help. It's a lot smaller than Creality community and mods are harder to find
any chance you could share your print settings? I am curious about your retraction and flow values because this is where I seem to have issues with this machine. Stringing and dimensional accuracy is just not on par with the other machines
Hmm, a Prusa MK3 compatible Printer for the price of a Creality Ender-3 V2? This is a Printer I've to take into consideration.
loving my sv06, great video Angus, hopefully the community gets behind it, have you made your prusa profile public ?
You mention you have sidewinder X1 slicer profile. Do you mind sharing it please?
Would really love to see you do the SVO4 IDEX
I did the same thing and destroyed my bed, glad I wasn't the only one haha. I ended up ordering some 1.5mm g10, I have to leave the old plate underneath otherwise it won't work when homing. I would recommend going to a 1mm sheet though
Sovol 06 Plus was released today, addresses some of these issues.
nice review!! want to check out the SV03 and perhaps jump up to the Prusa brand
I dislike when manufacturers make a hotend where you cannot see the nozzle easily during prints - it's especially important on the first layer (obviously). This printer is terrible in that regard.
I put a sprite pro onto an ender3 clone. The extra temperature head room came in handy when I put a Hardened steel nozzle on for glow in the dark. The petg I normally print with prints at 240, so it was nice to be able print at 255 and not need to change nozzles.
I absolutely prefer V-slot rollers over rods and linear bearings in any day of the week. Linear bearings are noisy and usually wear out much faster than the common POM/delrin rollers. And they need lubrication that attracts dust and grime like hell. Not to mention how rigid V-slot profiles are compared to these surface hardened rods.
Prusa really needs to revise the MK3 design to add some of the features especially the way the extruder assembly is so easily removed without having to deal with the large bundle of wires.
Prusa out , FLSUN in , 3d printing enters the era of high-speed printing ，maybe you can try
Love your channel. Where do you find the .step files for the Sovol Printer?
About clearance tests - shouldn't there be a 0.0 clearance test too - that should stick, to prevent cheating by setting xy compensation very high?
Would love to see a review of the Sovol 3D SV04 IDEX, especially with it's bigger build volume, iDEX, and runout detection!
I have had one for almost a year now. Had a few teething issues, replaced the parts fans with better ones as I started to get heat creep after a while. New fans got rid of that. One note - the SD card slot is a spring release one and is UPSIDE DOWN due to the motherboard being mounted inverted at the top of the case. I busted mine inserting the card because due to the spring it felt like it was going. in. I replaced the motherboard at my cost (I busted it). The runout detection will probably need you to tweak it, got some false stops and opened the box and tweaked the adjustments and it hasn't repeated.
The printer MUST be in the proper MODE before you print. I would have thought the slicer would have put GCODE at the beginning to set it to the appropriate mode but it doesn't. If I knew what these codes were I would add them to the slicer.
But I'm very happy with it. It just runs and runs and makes great prints. Another thing to be aware of, a lot of the parts are Creality - the 32 bit motherboard, the fans, and the graphical display.
In my experience with more recent low budget printers (for example the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro), the weakest link is becoming the firmware. There is so much 'copying' from Prusa in terms of features and functionality I kinda wish companies like Elegoo, Sovol, etc, would also incorporate the quality of life features found in Prusa's firmware (autoleveling on print start, filament changing, how the menu's are set up and controlled, etc).
All in all, like you observed with the filament run-out sensor and cheaper bearings, I think folks would be generally be more than willing to pay 50 euro/pound/dollar more for such a printer if those minor drawbacks were properly addressed. Printers like this would then really be good value for money.
Would it be difficult to just install a detector for when the filament runs out?
I am brand new to 3D printing and got the SV06. Would you be able to share your slicer settings?
Hmm thinking of getting this as my first printer, or should I save up for Bambu x1?
Maybe there could be software filament run out feature that goes by weight of the filament entered by user as a last resort. A warning and option for slowing printing for a scheduled swap.
Please have some information on customer support when looking at printers.. Yes, prusa is to expensive.. BUT is there anyone that has a similar support level 24/7 as prusa? Great for beginners not knowing what the printer does and need quick info and live help getting started.
Are you going to review the SV05
Why do one need a filament runoputsensor, except to store a 50mm spare filament, to block the Sensor?
Hi, where i can download the file for calibration cube maker's muse ? thank you
can you share your Prusa Slicer profile? I am having serious gantry leveling issues on mine and no matter what I do i cant get the right side to be level :(
I had an sv01 and it was solid
You must be impressed with the flsun v400, please review it
High-speed printing is the new era
Thank you Angus!
With my Sovol sv06 both z-axis profile where bent within a few months. I don't think the printer can handle normal sized spools and it's a design flaw. Sovol also can't supply spare parts so the printer is garbage now.