Fixing my broken Prusa Mini - MTS#7
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2021
- Making The Show - Episode 7
My Prusa Mini+ kept jamming, and I fixed it. If you're having trouble, maybe this guide will help you.
Steam Lab's tutorial - • Prusa mini hotend / un...
Prusa forum post - forum.prusaprinters.org/forum...
PINDA/MINDA probe height tool - www.prusaprinters.org/prints/...
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Straight 3D printing fire!!!
my mini has been sitting broken for about 2 years... and i think your issue is mine exactly... so going to start with this... thanks for the very well made video.
I switched nozzles back and forth, loosening and dropping the heat break away from the PTFE.
Ended up with extrusion problems.
This guide helped fix my printer. Thanks for posting it!
Glad to help!
Amazing. Thank you so much. I assumed I was just buying crap filament because 1-2 of my rolls continually got jammed. This fixed it and prints are looking solid now
I have just taken a mini +, I think it will arrive in 2 weeks, I have heard other people who have taken the Mini and have had this problem, I do not understand why Prusa does not intervene to remedy the defect. Thanks for having found the solution, when I get it I'll pay attention to how the hotend is mounted.
Alright need to go do this to my Mini+ now
My MIni+ started having the same issue with PETG this week, it would print fine, until certain amount of time. then under extrude the filament and ghost print. Very annoying.
Had to open extruder, to free the filament, 3 times already.
I put together a nice enclosure, and feeding the filament from below, using a longer PTFE tube, and a hole to the enclosure bottom. So I was blaming the friction, or maybe the longer tube, but then I tested with everything as originally came and same issue, after around 2 hours...
I read about the issue with the hotend and PTFE tube gap but a video I saw suggested changing the hotend, what I found to be too soon and too much.
Here I finally got the right explanation and fix. And such a nicely done video.
Thank you, I will try this weekend. RN I am taking the opportunity to do some upgrades, just changing the LCD front panel to add the power and USB port to the front
Subscribed as a way to say thank you!
Thank you for the kind words!
how long does that PTFE tube in the hot end have to be?
loved watching this :D
Thank you
A very well documented and informative video. One thing, you are talking about the minda probe, but I think it's actualy the newer SuperPinda probe, right?
I had a similar issue with my mini +. Luckily, I was able to unscrew the 10mm on the hot end side of the tube, heat up the head and pull it out the blobbed filament, no need to re-adjust anything.
I think there might be some sort of small difference in the hot-end assemblies that separates minor issues like you ran into, and the larger issue I encountered.
I had hoped when I had my first clog (20 hours in with printing) that it was a blip like you encountered. Fingers crossed your worries are behind you!
Could you cut a ptfe tube just a little longer instead of moving the hot end up? Just wondering I don’t have this machine.
Yeah that’s a good observation. It might be tricky because the ptfe has a specific chamfer degree cut into the end, but if I had extra tubing that fit the dimension I could have tried that.
after bearing and rods re-lubing, belts change i came her and...thank you sir :)
Happy to help!
Hi any advice how to loosen the 3 screws on the heathead? The allen key almost broke trying to loosen it :/ Thx!
Did you remove the long machine screw holding in the wire harness, then wiggle the wire harness out of the way? That bottom nut sits captive against the wire harness when it's in position, and won't budge until the harness is moved.
@@BrooklynQuarter omg it worked, it's finally fixed after 3 days of frustration. Thank you!!
@@WWalkerz Happy to help!
If I lose track of the orientation of the short piece of bowden tube that goes into the extruder, how do I figure out which way to put it back in??? It's looks the same at both ends…
I have found similar tubes as well. Without a gauge it can be hard to be sure
I tried this and the Z axis was not going all the way down to the bed when it read 0. Doing the first layer calibration did not go well either and maxed the live adjust as well and still no contact of filament on the bed any info on this would be awesome!
Hiya Linden, I would check that your MINDA probe is the right height relative to the nozzle, as that will determine your Z range
@@BrooklynQuarter Thanks for the reply! I ended up not following the directions correctly and took the MINDA the wrong direction. Also had to "Disable Steppers" to be able to run the nozzle down to the bed. Thanks for the help and the video!
I own a MK3S+, Mini+, X1C and X-CF Pro. The mini, is by far the biggest disappointment. Had/have the same issues as you. It’s a repetitive cycle of problems. It just sits now because it’s so frustrating
Actually some other tricks to reduce risk of clogging:
1. Increase fan speed for hotend cooler (esp. if printing in hot ambient temperature like in an enclosure or a hot summerday in August). The original fan runs only at 38% (you can hear the difference, on reset it goes to 100% just a moment). Prusa firmware does not allow adjusting this speed - but llama firmware does. Sadly llama firmware is discontiniued and a step behind actual prusa firmware. But you always can go 100% permanent: Open electronics box, remove hotend fan cable, remove black wire from the connector and put it into a dupond connector housing (or put some electrical tape around). Plug fan cable back into the socet and the black wire to J21 Pin 2 (you might remove the jumper there before). This way the fan gets permanent ground instead pulsewith modulated one - so it is permanent on with 100%. While with original fan it is a bit to strong now (and loud), you might instal a Noctua or Sunon fan instead. These are less powerful than the original fan - but compared to original fan @38% theese fans @100% provide 30-50% more cooling air - and are extreme silent.
2. There is a Prusa MINI PC4-M10 Bowden Fitting Adapter on printables. With m10 push-trough couplers you can use one bowden instead of 3 pices. If you use Capricon with 1.9 inside diameter, you can actually reduce retraction distance - and reduced retraction distance is a great way to reduce heatcreep...
3. Same effect with reduced retraction if you use a direct extruder. There are models for sherpa, orbiter and hextruder (and maybe more), all using lightweight Nema 14. (you have to set lower motor current in start g-code and also make a file to set it and "print" the command before first layer calibration).
Of course best is to use the fix you have shown + fan mod + diect extruder (+ Revo micro)
Revo micro or v6 close enough?
But whats up with those very visible layer lines? Those are definitely not "normal".
That’s just untuned filament settings in the slicer, that’s an entirely separate process to dial in per filament brand.