I'm using a Bambu Lab P1S and see the same sort of speed improvements. With my old Ender 3 it took about 70-80 hours to print a plane and I used to get lots of first layer fails. Now I can print a plane in a bit over 23 hours and this can be split over just 3-4 prints. I can load the print bed full of parts, press print and forget about it. I like the way you draw your hinges, its a simple light-weight solution.
A great exploration on how to print faster, so can fly faster. In terms of volumetric flow of material, the limiting factor is the ability of the hot end to bring the filament material up to temperature. Temperature of hot end, density of material, and feed rate are only factors, as filament cross section area is constant. All the rest of time to print is related to printer/printhead motion. Part placement and number of parts is a major factor to print time, as printhead can spend a significant amount of time traveling vs. printing. If there was a way to auto-eject parts (or swapping build plates), then printing would be significantly faster, as could print parts one at time eliminating intra-part travel. Alternatively printing different shaped parts in series instead of parallel, as long as they are well space on build plate, to avoid print-head collisions could result in time savings. There's always an option of running multiple printers, reducing part count per printer session. For example, I’d expect the print speed of two A1’s to be faster compared to one XC1 for printing the set of same parts. Or, the XC1 for larger parts, combined an older printer for smaller parts could improve overall print speed.
The answer is in your slicer. The expected weight with regular PLA of the test part is ~ 5.75g if you have the settings correct... which is just importing the config files from the website. This may vary if you change the extrusion factor... if you are weighing the actual part it may be different still, but only a little.... so as the usual correct engineering answer is "it depends".
so nylon and tpu are flexible materials, you need structure for long skinny wings like on gliders... short wing span / low aspect ratio designs might be fun to try. the PLA + is still 85%-ish the stiffness of PLA but flexible-ish ... will still break into pieces when you crash at 100+ mph, just the pieces are bigger. easier to clean up
@@soarkraft yeah tpu would probably be basically indestructible . It definitely wouldn't work for a long skinny wing because it's to flexible but nylon might be a good in-between for medium aspect ratio planes and its also a fair bit lighter than pla abs is also a good material if you have a heated chamber
@@marc_frank that would work fine it doesn't matter if it's a bedslinger you can just have the wing chord aligned with the y axis. the main reason thin parts wobble is the nozzle draging across the print and pulling it back and forth. The way you fix that is to place two wings at a 90 degree angle and place thin 1x1 or 2x2 mm bridges between them so that they support each other in both axis. If you do extend your printer I please let me know how it goes
@@marc_frank also depending on how tall you make it you might have to mount the top to the wall my printer will be supported by the selling and floor in a short closet
Yes, insane…. But what is it really doing? bumping up acceleration is the only thing it can reliably push without breaking stuff. And the calculated time is way off… overly optimistic…. But still way fast and fun that it has a ludicrous mode
Creality Hyper PLA is total crap to my experience - bad layer adhesion, bad flow on Bambulabs - way worse than Bambu Basic PLA or (my favorite) Sunlu Meta PLA
Did you run at 230 nozzle temp? It does require more heat… and, yes, it is probably more crap marketing than anything else. A way to try to cover up Creality’s horrible rollout of the K1 printer. I like Bambu lab filament, but is a bit of a premium unless you join there subscription club ????? And discounts only for basic stuff. A comparable pla tough or pla + is $$ more than the current price of the hyper stuff.
I'm using a Bambu Lab P1S and see the same sort of speed improvements. With my old Ender 3 it took about 70-80 hours to print a plane and I used to get lots of first layer fails. Now I can print a plane in a bit over 23 hours and this can be split over just 3-4 prints. I can load the print bed full of parts, press print and forget about it. I like the way you draw your hinges, its a simple light-weight solution.
Thanks for the video, I learned a lot.
A great exploration on how to print faster, so can fly faster.
In terms of volumetric flow of material, the limiting factor is the ability of the hot end to bring the filament material up to temperature. Temperature of hot end, density of material, and feed rate are only factors, as filament cross section area is constant. All the rest of time to print is related to printer/printhead motion.
Part placement and number of parts is a major factor to print time, as printhead can spend a significant amount of time traveling vs. printing. If there was a way to auto-eject parts (or swapping build plates), then printing would be significantly faster, as could print parts one at time eliminating intra-part travel. Alternatively printing different shaped parts in series instead of parallel, as long as they are well space on build plate, to avoid print-head collisions could result in time savings.
There's always an option of running multiple printers, reducing part count per printer session. For example, I’d expect the print speed of two A1’s to be faster compared to one XC1 for printing the set of same parts. Or, the XC1 for larger parts, combined an older printer for smaller parts could improve overall print speed.
great video......greetings from the netherlands
Hi. Thanks for a really good insight. I am printing the test print as I type. Can I ask what is the weight that you expect this to be?
The answer is in your slicer. The expected weight with regular PLA of the test part is ~ 5.75g if you have the settings correct... which is just importing the config files from the website. This may vary if you change the extrusion factor... if you are weighing the actual part it may be different still, but only a little.... so as the usual correct engineering answer is "it depends".
Thanks. The test printed beautifully and just 5gms. i only ask because some of the weights given by other designers are very optimistic @@soarkraft
What do you think about low aspect ratio nylon or even tpu 3d printed planes
so nylon and tpu are flexible materials, you need structure for long skinny wings like on gliders... short wing span / low aspect ratio designs might be fun to try. the PLA + is still 85%-ish the stiffness of PLA but flexible-ish ... will still break into pieces when you crash at 100+ mph, just the pieces are bigger. easier to clean up
@@soarkraft yeah tpu would probably be basically indestructible . It definitely wouldn't work for a long skinny wing because it's to flexible but nylon might be a good in-between for medium aspect ratio planes and its also a fair bit lighter than pla abs is also a good material if you have a heated chamber
I have tried nylon... it is too floppy and still breaks. Carbon nylon is lighter but still floppy, still breaks.
@@soarkraft what glider did you try it on
i have a roll of pp i need to try on something
Hello, i can print this model in Printer Artillery Genius Pro. ? Thk.
Yes, all of these models will print with the Artillery Genius Pro... just takes longer.
Have you tried printing planes from 3dlabprints on the X1C?
Im building a giant 400x400 bed 1300 z called everest so i can print really big planes in just a few pieces
that's cool
i've thought about extenting the z axis on my printer, but it's a bed slinger, so i think wings would wobble too much over 500mm
@@marc_frank that would work fine it doesn't matter if it's a bedslinger you can just have the wing chord aligned with the y axis. the main reason thin parts wobble is the nozzle draging across the print and pulling it back and forth. The way you fix that is to place two wings at a 90 degree angle and place thin 1x1 or 2x2 mm bridges between them so that they support each other in both axis. If you do extend your printer I please let me know how it goes
@@marc_frank also depending on how tall you make it you might have to mount the top to the wall my printer will be supported by the selling and floor in a short closet
On any Bambu p1p, p1s, x1 you can simply go in the screen settings and change the printer speed up to ludicrous mode which is insane
Yes, insane…. But what is it really doing? bumping up acceleration is the only thing it can reliably push without breaking stuff. And the calculated time is way off… overly optimistic…. But still way fast and fun that it has a ludicrous mode
Creality Hyper PLA is total crap to my experience - bad layer adhesion, bad flow on Bambulabs - way worse than Bambu Basic PLA or (my favorite) Sunlu Meta PLA
Did you run at 230 nozzle temp? It does require more heat… and, yes, it is probably more crap marketing than anything else. A way to try to cover up Creality’s horrible rollout of the K1 printer.
I like Bambu lab filament, but is a bit of a premium unless you join there subscription club ????? And discounts only for basic stuff. A comparable pla tough or pla + is $$ more than the current price of the hyper stuff.