🔍 Revealing the TRUTH Bambu X1 3D Printer! Unfiltered Feedback - Is It the Ultimate or Overhyped? 🤔
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ม.ค. 2024
- 🚀 Prepare for an honest deep dive into the Bambu X1 3D Printer - John Robert spills the beans after rigorous testing!
🕵️♂️💡 Is it truly the pinnacle of 3D printing perfection, or are there flaws lurking beneath the surface?
🔍🤯 Join us as we unveil the unfiltered feedback - the good, the almost perfect, and the areas where it stumbles.
🌐✨ Click now to discover if this is the game-changer you've been waiting for or just another overhyped tech illusion!
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Good to hear a real story on the Bambu rather than all the internet "OMG it's the bestest most perfectest printer eva!!!!"
One thing you might be able to try to help with the build plate warping, is to orient the part diagonally across the plate on the slicer if you can. That way the part is going along the longest part of the plate. It might just warp a different direction, but hey it might help.
Heh, we still have problems with og 2-d printers (Inkjet, Laserjet, you name it) that haven't been solved and they have been around waayyyy longer.
Thanks for sharing! I appreciate the candid opinion.
I'm at about 7 months of printing with X1C and AMS, 1400h+ ... all technical issues I've encountered came from the filament itself not being dry enough (layer adhesion, quality, one - yes one only in 1400h - clogged nozzle), neglecting belt tension (layer shift) that needs to be done every once in a while, failing to clean the various plates properly and .,, failing to empty my (big) poop box ... other than that, not a single mechanical failure, neither on the AMS, despite printing PLA, ASA and PETG mostly, but also TPU, PETG-CF and Nylon in lesser quantity.
Do your belt tension, dry your filament (even out of the box, you never know how long it spent on the shelves before being packaged), clean your plate (and choose the right one of course) .... I'm pretty sure that'll solve most of your issues. You may also try automatic calibration from Bambu Studio for your specific roll of filament to fine-tune a bit more, and once in a while or everytime you move it, do the full printer calibration.
Oh and AMS is not just about multicolor. You print PETG with supports, AMS allows you to print PETG with PLA as interface between supports and the part. Sure it takes more time to print but the result is just wonderfull ... the supported face is as clean as if it was printed on the bed, and removal of supports is a breeze. It's also about long prints, where you have an too low spool ... you can chain it with a new one asside and use the first spool until its very end without worrying about running out of filament and not being there in time to insert new filament.
My only regret about this printer is that I can't use TPU in the AMS ...
Fine tuning is the solution (drying filament too) if you do it correctly you solve all petg (and other filament) problems... 👍🏼
You've forgotten to suggest to turn it off and on.
@@antonkukoba3378 What for ? It's not running Windows 🤣
I wasn't aware of the X1E, thanks for putting that on my radar as I was about to purchase an X1C. I agree that your warping is due to the build plate. Looking forward to your G10 plate results.
I print almost exclusively PETG on my Bambus (X1C, P1S) with thousand plus hours. I use textured PEI or G10 depending on the part and sometimes my mood, no glue or adhesives, and have very few issues - no warping, no detaching, no spaghetti messes or extrusion weirdness. My parts don't go all the way to the edge of the build plate but are quite large, some in foot print some in height. I don't have any issues with the prints warping off the bed. I run the bed at 72, Print at 255, aux fan off, parts fan off for first 8 layers, then like 40%, cubic for infill, no brim or anything else. I haven't changed any of the print speeds. I had so much trouble with PETG when I did these with my Enders and I was worried I wouldn't have good results with Bambu. Well the prints are much nicer than what my Enders produced. Anyway hope some ideas here help. I do have the AMS but it's been about equal parts great to trouble and for single color, functional parts, yeah, not necessary, and I can't let it run out because Sunlu bends the ends of their filament which gets caught in the AMS first stage feeder. So I snip it once it gets toward the end to run out. and every once in a while I throw all the leftover spools on the external and use them up that way. The AMS does work for spool rollover and as a decent dry box too.
Hi John. I wonder if gluing extra magnets to the underside of the base will hold the print bed better? (Assuming that's how it's held). Also you could try turning the object 45 deg (if it fits), that may give it enough space between it and the edges? Layer shift can be caused by a bad liner bearing. Take the belts off and slide the bed by hand to to test how free they are, you could do that at 2:30 tomorrow morning. One last thing, you should really consider a Prusa. After more than 2000h on my mk3 I have had no problems that weren't of my own making. The kit version is cheaper and goes together very easily with excellent instructions. Seriously get one.
I have seen layer shifts on my X1 carbon caused by the Filament spool where the extruder struggled to get the filament off the spool. I think maybe it pulls so hard on the filament that it causes the print head to move a little resulting in the layer shift. I have seen layer shifts happen when the printer was able to eventually get the filament going again without presenting an error as well as when an error was posted that the motor was overloaded and I had to get the filament unstuck from the spool (there were no tangles the filament was just very tight on the spool). I only had this issue with 2 spools of Gray Elegoo Rapid PLA, I now re-spool all my Gray Elegoo PLA before using. I have had no issue with other colors of Elegoo PLA or Elegoo PETG.
Im having alot of the same issues printing petg on my bambu. Like you I've turned down the volumetric speed, and pretty much speed parameters overall. I've also went through the belt tensioning and calibration steps. I always print dried petg, same as I have on my other printers. Hopefully one of us are able to work through these issues, so we can help the other out.
absolutely!
The AMS and the dedicated support material is soemthing else. For those really complex parts its pretty incredible the finish you can get with that support material and it just pops off.
G10 sticks like crazy, but if you let it cool the parts come right off. If memory serves me G10 doesn’t like to be cleaned with IPA, I used water with a couple of drops of Dawn in it. About every 7 prints I gave it a good scrubbing with a clean sponge, hot water & Dawn. Rinse well & dry with micro fiber towel.
Appreciate your honest review
I thought I was ready to buy a printer but I didnt understand half of what you said so yea feelin kinda dumb over here :(
we all start somewhere, if you have an interest, I say go for it!
I own two X1-Cs. Amazing machines. Most problems are corrected with proper filament calibration or minor tweaks in the slicer. You will be surprised when you will use the AMS. It’s not that much trouble and works consistent, but some parts wear out and if the filament rough they wear faster.
Try Polylight ABS, it lower VOC's then regular ABS. Also try slowing down the print speed a little could help with the skipping.
did you try increasing the bed temperature? it helped me cancel warping on large PLA prints that covered the entire length of the bed. I increased it from 35 to 55 and it came out perfectly level
I may try that, thnx!
I love the ams! One of my favorite features of the x1. I’m so lazy being able to change filament with a mouse click is muy bueno! Doubles as a “drying chamber” Also multi material prints. Anyway, I like it 😂
Agreed, the AMS is just for convivence. I usually have ABS, PETG, PLA+, and a Matte in the AMS. Or support material.
I've never had an issue with the build plate lifting and that's with ABS/ASA/PETG.
Get the textured bed. Print petg great with a spritz of aqua net. Ymmv
Could be binding on the carbon rods, due to volatile oils gumming up due to extended printing of ASA etc.
turn on the auto step recovery feature on the printer on in your slicer
You need to be using the AMS with the support/layer material, perhaps, and sometimes you have to design for print as well as design for purpose. Preheating the build chamber for at least half an hour might help too.
thanks for the feedback!
I was happy with my Anycubic I3 Mega Ultrabase - worked well out of the box, but it def took time to get it really dialed in for the print quality I was looking for. That one was noisy, but I was happy with it. Solid work horse. Had to sell that off though. I recently got a Creality Ender S1 Pro (because I wanted a direct drive extruder and access to higher temps so I can get my hand in more exotic filaments like Nylon), again taking time to really dial it in, but out of the box it was working very well (though there was a major stopping point as the initialization gcode was missing a line to tell the printer to use trammed bed profile (the learned bed profile) for the print). Haven't had a problem with major curled prints with PETG either printer (and both were the open chamber variety - not closed).
Not the pro but it's direct drive and I must say it's definitely user friendly for beginners..Mines doing great with minimal input from me..
@@billwiththeb It's a good machine. My first two prints failed untill I discovered the missing line, no failed prints since. But I know I can get it printing slightly better with some minor tweaks. :-)
Couldn’t you add some clips to hold the build plate down on the edges?
Your issues with PETG are normal. PETG is very prone to sticking to the nozzle on any printer but Bambu nozzles seem to be a little worse. I bet some filament stuck to the nozzle and collided with the model causing the shift.
As far as the plate bending, PETG is incredibly strong on PEI plates and often will pull them up. I'd bet your real problem is the chamber fan. Override it and set it to "off". This will retain more internal heat and help stabilize the shrinking/pulling. Also as others have said, cut down some of the other fans too. As a band aid try a binder clip to hold the plate flat (like Ender 3s had).
As far as the encoders, good luck getting one of these companies to bite the bullet on the extra cost for something so rare as a tool head collision. Just not likely.
I tried a binder, it ripped the pei off the build plate 😆
The shift happened in the same spot on 3 prints in a row. Shifted back in the same spot too. I resliced with a new stl and slower settings and it seems to be fixed for now.
@HolmesHobbies Slowing thing down is never a bad idea, but the thought that it's occurring in the same line each time might indicate the model might be the issue. Using a new STL was a good idea.
Also note that the bed temp determines how much chamber fan is used. Anything over 80C gets full fan on BBL PETG profile, and full fan will drop the chamber temperatures significantly. Goto the slicer and check the "Advanced " tab on the filament profile. There, you'll see the start GCode. Check the fan speed there as it corresponds to the bed temp. S255 is the maximum, and anything below that is directly proportional (S180 will be 180/255= .70 or 70%). Like you mentioned earlier, high chamber temps will help with pulling up of the bed. So, slowing the fan down will keep the chamber warmer. Personally, I'd replace the PETG start code with an S0 or max of S75 (30%) to keep it up around 50C chamber. The printer can easily take that, but you'll want to watch out for heat creep nozzle clogs as PETG can still soften up around 60C, although it should be fine.
PETG likes a open environment! I print petg all the time and never have a problem !
Also on a flexible build plate !
It's the shape of what I'm printing that's the main issue. On glass it's fine. On flexible it peels the plate up
@HolmesHobbies must be a normal bambu problem then! Glad I never got one .
AMS is still worth it for fact that it keeps your filament dry and warm (if its on top of the printer)
good point!
“Bamboozled” 😂
Petg don’t need heated chamber. Petg barley crimps compared to abs which also don’t need heated chamber. What you want to consider are also the amount of cooling. The size of those parts should be able to print almost passively.
❤That’s strange that you’re having a warping issue with PETG, I print PETG, ABS, and Nylon with my X1C with no warping issues at all. And I’ve had no issues with my three AMS units. I’ve also never had any shifted layers. Wish I had some advice for you to fix your issues but I don’t.
It's the shape that's causing it. Got a g10 bed , cranked up the enclosure temp, and we are good now
@@HolmesHobbies Nice. 👍
heat sync, cool and decouple the steppers ?
Why did you not turn the part upside down with that duct the thick side down would have worked with that shape
There's a flange on the bottom, I didn't want supports and needed max strength. It would stay down better, tis true.
Run ASA instead of ABS. Its fancier and much lower foc's than abs.
yeah so I haven't watched your video but I can answer your titles question. Yes the x1C is the greatest thing to ever happen to 3d printing. If only they made an Idex Next.
I was going to suggest a hammer, but that would probably bamboozle the bambu lol.
just a few love taps...
i want the model where i push print and i dont have any more worries for the rest of my life du..... lmao
me too!
Use a petg glass bed … it dont warp !
I really want a 3D printer but the ones I can afford aren’t good
depends on what you wanna print.
G10 is amazing
So just stick with my ender 5 plus got it 😂
I have it in the cart ready to buy and now i see this video 😑
I have to disagree. I have had several issues with my X1C.Support started off with very slow responses, then got much better, and now is slipping back once again. My X1C is dead in the water and I have no clue when I will hear back from them. I am currently on day 11 of waiting. I wish I could pick up the phone and just talk to them. Yeah, right!
you still waiting?
@@whoa_guy - Nope, they replaced the entire printer with a brand new one. Works great.
Neck beards say it needs to be open source.
oh
This is one of the reasons I don't get into 3D printing. I can't imagine how much plastic is being tossed into landfills from bad prints.
but it is already there and produced ... so 🤔Recycling has to pick up finally.
@@themountain59 NOPE. A quick google search reveals much that people would probably want to know.
Is 3D printing filament recyclable?
Nearly all 3D printer filaments, including nylon and polycarbonate, are classified Type 7 or “Other” by standards organization ASTM International and are not typically recycled by municipal programs. This includes acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS), polylactic acid (PLA), and polyethylene terephthalate glycol (PETG).
Yeah those AMS are bad and i wont get one even if i could. And u can just not print useless stuffs, all my prints have been used for their purpose or are still in my room.
And u can recycle them, there are companies who do that but are not accesible in many places tho
Are you sleeping with a mask on your face and gloves on your hands mate?
Most other manufacturers have waste you just don’t see it especially when making low volume which is what most 3D printers are making that have waste the people who make lots of the same things have little waste
why are you using Celsius when you live in America
3D printers use metric...
The rest of the world uses Celsius so it makes communication in the print community clearer.
Turn off the aux fan you'll thank me later
Already did
@@HolmesHobbies That solved all my PETG issues.