Just for the record, the gap you are looking for is not 2 thousands of an inch (0.002) as you mention through out your presentation but rather 20 thousands of an inch (0.020). Of course you know what that gap should be but we all have those ... moments. Anyway I thank you, mon ami, for a very informative video.
t-mike, i appreciate your videos. i wanted to run a problem by you and see if you could give me a reason for the problem i had. i have a 1968 evinrude 9.5 sportwin that belongs to my son that i have been working on and beating my brains out over. i lost fire on the bottom cylinder. replaced the points, condensers and wires on both sides. tested both coils and they tested 4000 ohms. primary was a little over 1.5 ohms. checked both coils on and off the motor. still no spark. swapped the condensers around and still no spark on the bottom. swapped both coils around and bam had good spark on both cylinders. doesn't make sense cause i had those coils on and off many times trying to figure out the problem. checked the gap on the points about 20 times and everytime they were dead on .020. crazy right. love your videos, you are a natural on video.
@@michaeljsimon found out why i was losing spark. The coil must have got hot and there was a really tiny spot on the bottom of the coil where the copper wire was exposed and grounding out on the ignition plate. Got that motor singing a song now. Thanks for the quick reply.
Hello T-Mike…your videos and explanations are fantastic..and helped me so much…one question if you could help me..I have 1969 Evinrude 18 HP fastwin..on the tiller right above the rubber handle is the sleeve that says start..fast..slow…how do you set that in right position..Thank you Victor Sampietro
MIKE HELP!--- I have been going through your videos to find out how to align the points when the "contacts do not match up properly"(the wired connection side is higher) but I can't find where you show that. I think I saw that in one of your Videos but I am not sure can you point me to the right one?
Have you ever replaced the points with Nova II modules? Are there any drawbacks to doing this? I have an 1968 9.5 HP Johnson that I was considering doing this to.
I'd like to send photo but it's beyond my mental capacity I have '73 9.5 Looking at timing plate, the rub blocks on the points extend further out then the new points in the '66 Never seen such a thing
Just for the record, the gap you are looking for is not 2 thousands of an inch (0.002) as you mention through out your presentation but rather 20 thousands of an inch (0.020). Of course you know what that gap should be but we all have those ... moments. Anyway I thank you, mon ami, for a very informative video.
thank you sir i might get to enjoy my first boat because of you
Thank You Mr T-Mike enjoy your Videos very much , your info has Helped me understand alot about outboard motors ... Keep them Coming .
This is a great video! 👍 . Very informative! Thanks
Awesome video best one on the subject
Nice way to set points
Awesome videos. One comment, It’s 20 thousandths or 2 hundredths.
i did all the electrics,coils,condenser points etc, but how do you time to the carb
t-mike, i appreciate your videos. i wanted to run a problem by you and see if you could give me a reason for the problem i had. i have a 1968 evinrude 9.5 sportwin that belongs to my son that i have been working on and beating my brains out over. i lost fire on the bottom cylinder. replaced the points, condensers and wires on both sides. tested both coils and they tested 4000 ohms. primary was a little over 1.5 ohms. checked both coils on and off the motor. still no spark. swapped the condensers around and still no spark on the bottom. swapped both coils around and bam had good spark on both cylinders. doesn't make sense cause i had those coils on and off many times trying to figure out the problem. checked the gap on the points about 20 times and everytime they were dead on .020. crazy right. love your videos, you are a natural on video.
th-cam.com/video/_p_QoBQ1gYI/w-d-xo.html
@@michaeljsimon found out why i was losing spark. The coil must have got hot and there was a really tiny spot on the bottom of the coil where the copper wire was exposed and grounding out on the ignition plate. Got that motor singing a song now. Thanks for the quick reply.
@@jamesparsley1259 so glad to help
Hello T-Mike…your videos and explanations are fantastic..and helped me so much…one question if you could help me..I have 1969 Evinrude 18 HP fastwin..on the tiller right above the rubber handle is the sleeve that says start..fast..slow…how do you set that in right position..Thank you
Victor Sampietro
You would need to remove handle grip to slide it back on.
th-cam.com/video/ZMeVsPy58N0/w-d-xo.html
have a video on setting timing to the carb for the 9.5
MIKE HELP!--- I have been going through your videos to find out how to align the points when the "contacts do not match up properly"(the wired connection side is higher) but I can't find where you show that. I think I saw that in one of your Videos but I am not sure can you point me to the right one?
Have you ever replaced the points with Nova II modules? Are there any drawbacks to doing this? I have an 1968 9.5 HP Johnson that I was considering doing this to.
Nope. I prefer original parts. Thx.
Do you set points with throttle at the full position
Will this b the same feeling gauge size for a fastwin 18 ?
Yes
@@michaeljsimon thank you .. my feeler gauge came in and my points .. replace everything and now I got spark on both cylinder
I have a ' 66 9.5
New everything on armature plate
Points rub block never touches cam
I’d have to see a picture of that to determine why
I'd like to send photo but it's beyond my mental capacity
I have '73 9.5
Looking at timing plate, the rub blocks on the points extend further out then the new points in the '66
Never seen such a thing
@@karlpolsterer7687 mail it to me and I’ll check it out.
Mike could I add a kill switch to a 3hp viking 1962. By adding a wire to the point. My boy is young but he wants to run it
@@gregmuck9601 yes
@michaeljsimon would I just add the other end to ground?
So it completes a ground when engaged ie to kill the motor
@@gregmuck9601 no the switch ends tie to the points and when switch is pressed shorts the points together essentially grounding them to each other.
See my spring under that part where it sess top won't stay down
Mike you mistakenly said 2 thousands and not twenty thousands....
Most frustrating video I've ever watched.