Just did this today and it WORKED. One pull start! One unstated note: it does NOT matter where the armature base is positioned/advanced when you set the points. Since the points move with the armature plate, the marks on the plate don't change their relationship to the points. A lot of people (including me) thought it might change as the plate advanced. It doesn't. It can be advanced to any position and the points are going to be set to open when the flywheel mark crosses the armature mark, just as your video shows. Many, many thanks!
It’s 9 years later but doesn’t matter; great “show how” video. It’s how he comes across & explains this tech. I first watched this video years back when I began tuning motors; the good old 50’s and 60’s and 70’s OMC outboards. Love this stuff. Just thought I’d leave a current comment to a great video a decade old lol.
Well I did it again; I came back to refer to this video to refresh my memory to tune up yet another 3 hp- a 1959 Evinrude. Just finished it. Runs great- timing is dead on & idles low very well; it’s that which makes a difference when it is. Since I don’t have a timing fixture, doing it like this works. There’s other videos out there that show how but this explains it so well. So thanks again lol. Using the trick with the long wire attached to the points etc.
That's great news, and I find it pleasing when someone can benefit from my video. I've head of them timing fixtures, never seen one or have any idea how they work.
Just rebuilt a '58 Johnson 18 and am so glad to see a method that relies on marks on the motor rather than a special tool or fixture. I will be readjusting based in this! THANKS!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! For posting this. I just replaced the plugs, fuel pump, rebuilt the carb and installed new condensers and points in my '76 Evinrude 6hp. It was a pain to start and ran horribly. I saw this, did it, and now it runs like a top! Three pulls from cold and I always run the gas out of the carb. Thanks a million!!
Thank you, this is great information for most two-cylinder outboard motor that runs with points, your explanation is very clear and easy to understand, I think most people should check their own motors manual which will show any slite differences in disassembly, etc.I have just purchased a 28hp Marian had work done but the owner could not set the timing so he sold it cheap, I have inspected the motor and the timing is way off and could not have started the motor, It now seems like an easy fix for me thanks to your video and the workshop manual for this model motor.
I want to say thank you Kevin Cronin. This video helped me out big time! After following this video to set my points on my 1970 Johnson Seahorse 9.5hp it fired up on the first pull! Everyone should use this method to set points and timing.
Jonathan, It's the little things in life that matters! Nothing beats a fast start and smooth run on the water for the day. Thank you for taking the time to comment on my video.
You're awesome Kevin! Fantastic video. I'm no longer afraid to replace my points in my 1954 Johnson 25hp that I'm bringing back to life. Definite thumbs up!
Thanks for filming this, Kevin. Your video helped make my Sunday afternoon troubleshooting on a 61 5.5 Evinrude a success. Last person to do the timing royally messed it up on bottom cylinder. Following your instructions allowed me to set things up properly.
You just saved my 72 evinrude 9.5, and my 73 johnson 25. I was just about to set em away and go for something newer, but this video, and my old motors iron dependability, made me fall in love all over again with these two motors.
Excellent video Mr Cronin, thank you for taking the time to demonstrate and explain. I just picked up a 1965 9HP Sea King that is only firing on one lead (coil). This method eliminates the feeler gage...Cool!
A lot more accurate then a feeler gauge also. Mine almost always starts on the first pull. Thank you! Good luck with that Sea King. Hope you get it up and purring like a kitten!
Thank You sir! What I initially thought was a bad coil turned out be something quite simple and didn't cost a dime. Both coils tested good on the multimeter so under close inspection after resistance testing the coils I noticed that both of the condenser wires were worn. Not enough to sever completely but enough to expose the copper core. The rotor/flywheel had been rubbing against the wires. I rotated the spade connecter down to bring the condenser wire down and away from the rotor and Wahlah! The 53 year old motor made smoke! Thank you again for your response and this video!
Thank you very much for this video. It worked great on my 68 evinrude 9.5. Being a boat motor novice it took me a little bit to set it up but once I did this worked really well. I started by setting my points manually with a feeler gauge and then checked it with this method. I set my points first with the feeler gauge because unfortunately my flywheel does not have the holes for the adjustment screws so I wanted to get it close manually first. Worked great and I got to play with my new volt meter.
I have the 68 6 hp Johnson and I guess I have to do a similar process as you. Did you keep pull in the fly wheel after you said it with the gauges to adjust the points?
Thank you for this instructional video. It is very thorough and easy. It is helping a lot to get my Evinrude 6hp Fisherman tuned up and ready for the fishing season. Thanks.
hello sir, just really wanna say Thank you for this informative and detailed video, it helped me to get my 1970 Johnson Seahorse 20hp back on the water.
Good to know that my video helped someone out. Thank you! Some basic knowledge and common sense, anyone can figure out the basics. Good luck to you next spring on your tune up.
Superb video! When one has the right tools and good guidlines, mechanics is very enjoyable. This makes it fun! My issue is my 1963 15hp gale Fastwins flywheel hash tags doesnt line up with the hash tags on the armature! No matter what I do, I cant get either top or bottom side even close! Also, the access hole in flywheel to adjust the points isn't at all close to the points! It's over the coil. The keyway is on the flywheel correctly but the hole is not over the points to make the adjustment!! I even bought the timing adjustment tool, to see if that would work but, when the tool is lined up with the hashtags, the points are not on the thick part of the cam! I've removed it and examined it probably 18-20 times and I am left scratching my head in absolute bafflement! So I finally just eyeballed each of the two sets of points foot (one at a time of course)on the thickest part of cam and set each to 20. But, the hash tags still don't match up! I haven't tried starting it yet as I am anxious it won't work. Any ideas???
Sorry to hear about this situation. I do recall the access hole being small and made it some what difficult to adjust the points. Did you ever figure out why nothing was lining up properly?
Thank You Kevin for another Great Information, proper way to do a tune up on a out board.. A couple more steps then the ol 73 sl 350 honda motorbike points/tuneup
Thank you this is a great video my 1968 6 hp wasn’t getting full throttle RPMs the last time I was out and I’m figuring it was the points or the timing so this helps a lot
Good video....this video is 8 yrs old. I was very active a few yrs ago and recently bought a boat so I went back. iBoats is not what it used to be. Moderators are rather grouchy. I'm not going back. facebook antique outboard motors is much better. A very active group.
Your RIGHT! When the points are closed the electrcity will pass through the points to the sparkplug and spark. When open that stops the flow of electricity. This is my 1st outboard engine and is a 2 cylinder engine, so there are 2 sets of timing marks. I don't know if your 7.5 is a one or two cylinder engine. If it's 1 cylinder, you will only have one set of timming marks.
Superb video! When one has the right tools and good guidlines, mechanics is very enjoyable. This makes it fun! My issue is my 1957 18hp Evinrude Fastwins flywheel hash tags doesnt line up with the hash tags on the armature! No matter what I do, I cant get either top or bottom side even close! Also, the access hole in flywheel to adjust the points isn't at all close to the points! It's over the coil. The keyway is on the flywheel correctly but the hole is not over the points to make the adjustment!! I even bought the timing adjustment tool, to see if that would work but, when the tool is lined up with the hashtags, the points are not on the thick part of the cam! I've removed it and examined it probably 18-20 times and I am left scratching my head in absolute bafflement! So I finally just eyeballed each of the two sets of points foot (one at a time of course)on the thickest part of cam and set each to 20. But, the hash tags still don't match up! I haven't tried starting it yet as I am anxious it won't work. Any ideas???
plain speaking really great help to any dummy ,I'm off down the workshop now,has I just found out the right way to do it,thanks for the big help,kev. brian .
I will try this on my 3 hp Johnson(1968) , my 5.5 Johnson (1961) and my 2 hp (1972) Johnson tune up for all of them should improve performance --- thanks ever so much.
Greetings, Kevin, I was amazed to find your extremely helpful vid on tuning the Evinrude engine. Mine is a 1975 Weedless 4 HP, and after replacing ignition parts, I've been having funky running-- runs fine at high speed but sputters & dies at low speeds. I suspected timing. Now, after seeing your work here, I know how to fix it. Thanks!!! I saw that regarding the throttle setting you said, "Thinking back a few months, I’m pretty sure it was a low throttle or around the Shift Speed marking. " OK
thanks Kevin, I learn better visually than by reading this helped me quite a bit ...last time I messed with points was on a 72 Datsun lol whole different ball game .... Cheers !!!
Fate! Some times is Sucks. I just hired a guy from work to help me install a new A/C condenser & compressor on my house 3 days ago. I went to Triton back in the 70's for heating & A/C. I have the basic knowledge, just very little experience and self-confidence to do it alone. I would have preferred to help out someone not working, but wanting to. When your ready to do the tune-up and rebuild that lower unit, drop me a line.
Kevin When I get some money Im going to replace the point in her . You video should help me get them on the money . Plus I need to rebuild the lower unit with new seals . But with this economy it very hard to find employment . It really sucks going to interviews and theres more than 10 people applying for a job . I should come first after all Im more exprienced ten the young buck . But it may as well be my age pulling me down too . Im a great hvac tech but now work just peanuts being tossed
You know you can save and reuse the old points if not worn to badly. Just use a fine file or emery cloth to clean them up a bit. Best is to removed them from the engine to do this, or have a Shop Vac running to collect the dust.
Ok, so far everyone has said that the way u set ur points to tune up your motor also has work for them. I ask a boat company about it and they say it doesn’t work. and that on old motors like we have u should use a feeler gauge I’m at a lost
Why would a boat Company say it doesn't work? My best guess is they want you to bring it to them$$$ It's your call, It's your engine, do what you feel is best for you.
When you do this adjustment, aren’t you also adjusting the points gap? Wouldn’t that make the gap less or more than optimal while you are fine tuning the timing of the points opening up?
Thanks for the reply Kevin, this makes sense to me now if the recommended points gap (0.02”) is just a starting point in timing like initial carb mixture screw settings and not a critical final measurement. Cheers
I found the answer on the internet . Closed will let electrity thru the wire and opened will not as in a short . I allways forget that simple thing and im into repairing electrical wires and so forth , you can forget some simple things . It happens .But I like your video . I two am confused about the timing marks on the flywheel too . I cant see the larger mark as well . as in 1&2 wires top or bottom cylinders .
7 years ago I did this video, sorry but I don't recall. trial and error would be my best suggestion. Knowing there are only 2 coils you have a 50% chance of getting it right the First time.
Ive noticed on my 9.5 the arrow on the cam is not on the rub block when the marks between the fly wheel and plate line up. Its about 1/8 inch off. Am I doing something wrong?
Hi there, how did you extend your fuel pump further out to clear the shifter lock? Im running into this issue with my new fuel pump being blocked by the shifter lock. Thanks!
Don't know today's prices, but I'm guessing I spent just around $100 on parts. The hardest was finding a long enough spark plug wire. Most parts came from NAPA Marine catalog.
Keep in mind the coils don't need to be replaced unless they are bad. Mine the lead wires where looking old and worn, but worked fine. I was in there, so why not replace them. I'm sure I saved a bundle on labor doing it all my self.
This is great video, but where do you set your marking on the drottle handle at? Is it on shift, star or fast to set the point at .20. I have a 6hr 1975 Evinrude motor. Thanks.
This is the same as using a evinrude timing fixture . I have a evinrude fleetwin 1957 7.5 hp . This will work for mine right . Its all the same . explain to me open and close of the points . its like a electrical switch open and closed . like opened as in a shortin the wire . and closed in a circuit that will turn on a light on a kitchen switch right .
its setup the same as in the points for evinrude/johnson/omc .my 7.5 also has 2 cylinders too so it should work .Like you I was confused about the 2 timing marks also on the flywheel . I could'nt see the large mark too,but your marks are on the side of the flywheel . Mine are on the underside flat side of it . I was also told too that one is larger . But seeing your video i can figure out which mark is cylinder top and bottom by marking the it on the coils and tracing the spark plug wires .
my points will not stay SET!! every time I run the engine they move!!! I have torqued the crap out of the screw and even put valve grinding compound under the plate!! Any help is appreciated short of JB welding it im out of ideas. It runs great for a while and then the points always move a few thousandths.
Strange... Only thing I can think of is using Lock-tite on each screw. after they are set, let the locktite set up over night be fore running the engine.
@@kevincronin60181 It explains timing with a ohm meter to the T. I'm just about finished doing a rebuild on a 1963 5.5 Fisherman. Couldn't have came at more opportune time.
Hi Kevin great tutorial by the way, really helpful ,you don't start by saying where tiller setting should be ,either in stop or start position ?or does this not matter ?.
You don't have to do all that Just move the flywheel around until the marks line up then adjust the spark gap til it just opens and you lose continuity that's it they're set That's how I do it. My dad owns Falan outdoors and that's how he showed me to do it and that's how he has done it for years.
can someone please tell me what the throtle needs to be set at! doesnt it make a differance in timing to have the throtle at a differant position?? please help
Anyone following this video to tune their engine....TOP on that came means that side UP ...not the top of the lobe. You need to LOOK at where the highest point of the came is if using a feeler gauge OR use the meter set on continuity or BEEP setting. If you have bought SIERRA after market points....JUNK in my opinion, you may NOT be able to get your gap set with that CAM screw and may need to move them by prying them with your screw driver.
Just did this today and it WORKED. One pull start! One unstated note: it does NOT matter where the armature base is positioned/advanced when you set the points. Since the points move with the armature plate, the marks on the plate don't change their relationship to the points. A lot of people (including me) thought it might change as the plate advanced. It doesn't. It can be advanced to any position and the points are going to be set to open when the flywheel mark crosses the armature mark, just as your video shows. Many, many thanks!
Thank you for sharing the updated info.
Than you for the explanation on that note. Huge AHA! moment
It’s 9 years later but doesn’t matter; great “show how” video. It’s how he comes across & explains this tech. I first watched this video years back when I began tuning motors; the good old 50’s and 60’s and 70’s OMC outboards. Love this stuff. Just thought I’d leave a current comment to a great video a decade old lol.
Many a THANK's. I truly enjoy hearing from folks that this video has helped out!
Well I did it again; I came back to refer to this video to refresh my memory to tune up yet another 3 hp- a 1959 Evinrude. Just finished it. Runs great- timing is dead on & idles low very well; it’s that which makes a difference when it is. Since I don’t have a timing fixture, doing it like this works. There’s other videos out there that show how but this explains it so well. So thanks again lol. Using the trick with the long wire attached to the points etc.
That's great news, and I find it pleasing when someone can benefit from my video.
I've head of them timing fixtures, never seen one or have any idea how they work.
Just rebuilt a '58 Johnson 18 and am so glad to see a method that relies on marks on the motor rather than a special tool or fixture. I will be readjusting based in this! THANKS!
Thank you and good luck.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! For posting this. I just replaced the plugs, fuel pump, rebuilt the carb and installed new condensers and points in my '76 Evinrude 6hp. It was a pain to start and ran horribly. I saw this, did it, and now it runs like a top! Three pulls from cold and I always run the gas out of the carb. Thanks a million!!
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thank you, this is great information for most two-cylinder outboard motor that runs with points, your explanation is very clear and easy to understand, I think most people should check their own motors manual which will show any slite differences in disassembly, etc.I have just purchased a 28hp Marian had work done but the owner could not set the timing so he sold it cheap, I have inspected the motor and the timing is way off and could not have started the motor, It now seems like an easy fix for me thanks to your video and the workshop manual for this model motor.
Sure hope this helps you getting the Marian engine up & running.
I want to say thank you Kevin Cronin. This video helped me out big time! After following this video to set my points on my 1970 Johnson Seahorse 9.5hp it fired up on the first pull! Everyone should use this method to set points and timing.
Jonathan, It's the little things in life that matters! Nothing beats a fast start and smooth run on the water for the day. Thank you for taking the time to comment on my video.
You're awesome Kevin! Fantastic video. I'm no longer afraid to replace my points in my 1954 Johnson 25hp that I'm bringing back to life. Definite thumbs up!
Thank you!
Thanks for filming this, Kevin. Your video helped make my Sunday afternoon troubleshooting on a 61 5.5 Evinrude a success. Last person to do the timing royally messed it up on bottom cylinder. Following your instructions allowed me to set things up properly.
Glad it helped out.
You just saved my 72 evinrude 9.5, and my 73 johnson 25. I was just about to set em away and go for something newer, but this video, and my old motors iron dependability, made me fall in love all over again with these two motors.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Your post is the first one I have viewed that shows how to do this. Good old knowhow. Thanks a lot.
Thanks for sharing.
best way to tune up an engine. Thanks alot for making this video. God bless you man .
My God bless you also. Many thanks!
Excellent video Mr Cronin, thank you for taking the time to demonstrate and explain. I just picked up a 1965 9HP Sea King that is only firing on one lead (coil). This method eliminates the feeler gage...Cool!
A lot more accurate then a feeler gauge also. Mine almost always starts on the first pull. Thank you! Good luck with that Sea King. Hope you get it up and purring like a kitten!
Thank You sir! What I initially thought was a bad coil turned out be something quite simple and didn't cost a dime. Both coils tested good on the multimeter so under close inspection after resistance testing the coils I noticed that both of the condenser wires were worn. Not enough to sever completely but enough to expose the copper core. The rotor/flywheel had been rubbing against the wires. I rotated the spade connecter down to bring the condenser wire down and away from the rotor and Wahlah! The 53 year old motor made smoke! Thank you again for your response and this video!
Thank you very much for this video. It worked great on my 68 evinrude 9.5. Being a boat motor novice it took me a little bit to set it up but once I did this worked really well. I started by setting my points manually with a feeler gauge and then checked it with this method. I set my points first with the feeler gauge because unfortunately my flywheel does not have the holes for the adjustment screws so I wanted to get it close manually first. Worked great and I got to play with my new volt meter.
Glad this helped out!
I have the 68 6 hp Johnson and I guess I have to do a similar process as you. Did you keep pull in the fly wheel after you said it with the gauges to adjust the points?
Thank you for this instructional video. It is very thorough and easy. It is helping a lot to get my Evinrude 6hp Fisherman tuned up and ready for the fishing season. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
I've got my 1966 big twin sitting there I'll get a new set of points and condensers, clean the Carby and have a go at your system, I'll keep u updated
Thank you for doing this video for all of us. It was very clear and I’m sure I’ll have no problem setting my points.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Almost 6 years later.. Thanks mate it worked for me ;)
hello sir, just really wanna say Thank you for this informative and detailed video, it helped me to get my 1970 Johnson Seahorse 20hp back on the water.
+Ronnie Bennett Great! Enjoy the cool breeze blowing across your face.
Thank you for the video.. going to use this to tune up a pair of 1962 3hp Johnsons
Thank you and hope all goes as planed.
Good to know that my video helped someone out. Thank you!
Some basic knowledge and common sense, anyone can figure out the basics.
Good luck to you next spring on your tune up.
Superb video! When one has the right tools and good guidlines, mechanics is very enjoyable. This makes it fun! My issue is my 1963 15hp gale Fastwins flywheel hash tags doesnt line up with the hash tags on the armature! No matter what I do, I cant get either top or bottom side even close! Also, the access hole in flywheel to adjust the points isn't at all close to the points! It's over the coil. The keyway is on the flywheel correctly but the hole is not over the points to make the adjustment!! I even bought the timing adjustment tool, to see if that would work but, when the tool is lined up with the hashtags, the points are not on the thick part of the cam! I've removed it and examined it probably 18-20 times and I am left scratching my head in absolute bafflement! So I finally just eyeballed each of the two sets of points foot (one at a time of course)on the thickest part of cam and set each to 20. But, the hash tags still don't match up! I haven't tried starting it yet as I am anxious it won't work. Any ideas???
Sorry to hear about this situation. I do recall the access hole being small and made it some what difficult to adjust the points. Did you ever figure out why nothing was lining up properly?
Thank You Kevin for another Great Information, proper way to do a tune up on a out board.. A couple more steps then the ol 73 sl 350 honda motorbike points/tuneup
Don't know about the Honda, but I'll keep it in mind if I ever buy one.
Thank you this is a great video my 1968 6 hp wasn’t getting full throttle RPMs the last time I was out and I’m figuring it was the points or the timing so this helps a lot
Good video....this video is 8 yrs old.
I was very active a few yrs ago and recently bought a boat so I went back.
iBoats is not what it used to be. Moderators are rather grouchy.
I'm not going back.
facebook antique outboard motors is much better. A very active group.
I sold my boat a few years back, so I haven't been on iBoats. I'm sorry to hear about your experience with them.
Your RIGHT! When the points are closed the electrcity will pass through the points to the sparkplug and spark. When open that stops the flow of electricity.
This is my 1st outboard engine and is a 2 cylinder engine, so there are 2 sets of timing marks. I don't know if your 7.5 is a one or two cylinder engine. If it's 1 cylinder, you will only have one set of timming marks.
excellent video,,very easy to understand, Kevin you are an excellent instructor.
Thank you! Tune it forward.... LOL
Others helped me through the years, so I thought I would pass it on.
Glad you liked it!
Superb video! When one has the right tools and good guidlines, mechanics is very enjoyable. This makes it fun! My issue is my 1957 18hp Evinrude Fastwins flywheel hash tags doesnt line up with the hash tags on the armature! No matter what I do, I cant get either top or bottom side even close! Also, the access hole in flywheel to adjust the points isn't at all close to the points! It's over the coil. The keyway is on the flywheel correctly but the hole is not over the points to make the adjustment!! I even bought the timing adjustment tool, to see if that would work but, when the tool is lined up with the hashtags, the points are not on the thick part of the cam! I've removed it and examined it probably 18-20 times and I am left scratching my head in absolute bafflement! So I finally just eyeballed each of the two sets of points foot (one at a time of course)on the thickest part of cam and set each to 20. But, the hash tags still don't match up! I haven't tried starting it yet as I am anxious it won't work. Any ideas???
Are you sure you are pointing them to the right marks on the magneto plate?
plain speaking really great help to any dummy ,I'm off down the workshop now,has I just found out the right way to do it,thanks for the big help,kev. brian .
Thanks for sharing.
I will try this on my 3 hp Johnson(1968) , my 5.5 Johnson (1961) and my 2 hp (1972) Johnson tune up for all of them should improve performance --- thanks ever so much.
Greetings, Kevin, I was amazed to find your extremely helpful vid on tuning the Evinrude engine. Mine is a 1975 Weedless 4 HP, and after replacing ignition parts, I've been having funky running-- runs fine at high speed but sputters & dies at low speeds. I suspected timing. Now, after seeing your work here, I know how to fix it. Thanks!!!
I saw that regarding the throttle setting you said, "Thinking back a few months, I’m pretty sure it was a low throttle or around the Shift Speed marking. " OK
Hope it worked out for you. I have another video on a "Clunk Noise from Evrinrude 1956 15HP" that might help.
thanks Kevin, I learn better visually than by reading this helped me quite a bit ...last time I messed with points was on a 72 Datsun lol whole different ball game ....
Cheers !!!
Points are points, but boats are more fun. Thanks for sharing.
Fate! Some times is Sucks.
I just hired a guy from work to help me install a new A/C condenser & compressor on my house 3 days ago. I went to Triton back in the 70's for heating & A/C. I have the basic knowledge, just very little experience and self-confidence to do it alone.
I would have preferred to help out someone not working, but wanting to.
When your ready to do the tune-up and rebuild that lower unit, drop me a line.
Thank you very much for this video, it give me a much better understanding on how to do this on my 1955 Johnson 5.5
I'm glad it was of help.
Awesome video Sir. Thank you so much for your advice. Now my engine really purrrs like a kitten.
Thanks for sharing.
\
Kevin
When I get some money Im going to replace the point in her . You video should help me get them on the money . Plus I need to rebuild the lower unit with new seals . But with this economy it very hard to find employment . It really sucks going to interviews and theres more than 10 people applying for a job . I should come first after all Im more exprienced ten the young buck . But it may as well be my age pulling me down too . Im a great hvac tech but now work just peanuts being tossed
You know you can save and reuse the old points if not worn to badly. Just use a fine file or emery cloth to clean them up a bit. Best is to removed them from the engine to do this, or have a Shop Vac running to collect the dust.
Thank you Kevin, it helped me a lot! thank you again & keep up the good work! I will try it on my 9.9 outboard.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Ok, so far everyone has said that the way u set ur points to tune up your motor also has work for them. I ask a boat company about it and they say it doesn’t work. and that on old motors like we have u should use a feeler gauge I’m at a lost
Why would a boat Company say it doesn't work? My best guess is they want you to bring it to them$$$
It's your call, It's your engine, do what you feel is best for you.
When you do this adjustment, aren’t you also adjusting the points gap? Wouldn’t that make the gap less or more than optimal while you are fine tuning the timing of the points opening up?
That's exactly what you are doing. Adjusting the points to their optimal setting.
The gap is a round about setting.
Thanks for the reply Kevin, this makes sense to me now if the recommended points gap (0.02”) is just a starting point in timing like initial carb mixture screw settings and not a critical final measurement. Cheers
Nice vid , very well explained, thanks !
I found the answer on the internet . Closed will let electrity thru the wire and opened will not as in a short . I allways forget that simple thing and im into repairing electrical wires and so forth , you can forget some simple things . It happens .But I like your video . I two am confused about the timing marks on the flywheel too . I cant see the larger mark as well . as in 1&2 wires top or bottom cylinders .
great informative video mate!
Thank you
If I just got a motor that's disassembled with the plugs already unhooked how do i know top from bottom when looking at coils?
7 years ago I did this video, sorry but I don't recall. trial and error would be my best suggestion. Knowing there are only 2 coils you have a 50% chance of getting it right the First time.
Fantastic video !!!
Thank you!
Great Video, thanks
Thank you!
where should the throttle position be when setting the points
+CRYSTAL BASKIN Not sure if that matters, but mine was on start
Ive noticed on my 9.5 the arrow on the cam is not on the rub block when the marks between the fly wheel and plate line up. Its about 1/8 inch off. Am I doing something wrong?
Sorry don't recall the details from 8 years ago.
Hi there, how did you extend your fuel pump further out to clear the shifter lock? Im running into this issue with my new fuel pump being blocked by the shifter lock. Thanks!
This was years ago. Don't recall
How much would the cost be to perform the tune up descried in these videos, plug wires, points, condensers and coils, labor and material
Don't know today's prices, but I'm guessing I spent just around $100 on parts. The hardest was finding a long enough spark plug wire. Most parts came from NAPA Marine catalog.
Keep in mind the coils don't need to be replaced unless they are bad. Mine the lead wires where looking old and worn, but worked fine. I was in there, so why not replace them. I'm sure I saved a bundle on labor doing it all my self.
Does anyone know if the points can easily be replaced with a CDI ignition kit or an easy conversion method?
Sorry I don't know.
This is great video, but where do you set your marking on the drottle handle at? Is it on shift, star or fast to set the point at .20. I have a 6hr 1975 Evinrude motor. Thanks.
+Russ Mannetti On StaRT!
Great video and it work thank you.
Thank you also.
This is the same as using a evinrude timing fixture . I have a evinrude fleetwin 1957 7.5 hp . This will work for mine right . Its all the same . explain to me open and close of the points . its like a electrical switch open and closed . like opened as in a shortin the wire . and closed in a circuit that will turn on a light on a kitchen switch right .
its setup the same as in the points for evinrude/johnson/omc .my 7.5 also has 2 cylinders too so it should work .Like you I was confused about the 2 timing marks also on the flywheel . I could'nt see the large mark too,but your marks are on the side of the flywheel . Mine are on the underside flat side of it . I was also told too that one is larger . But seeing your video i can figure out which mark is cylinder top and bottom by marking the it on the coils and tracing the spark plug wires .
very informative thanks for sharing !!!
Thank you.
my points will not stay SET!! every time I run the engine they move!!! I have torqued the crap out of the screw and even put valve grinding compound under the plate!! Any help is appreciated short of JB welding it im out of ideas. It runs great for a while and then the points always move a few thousandths.
Strange... Only thing I can think of is using Lock-tite on each screw. after they are set, let the locktite set up over night be fore running the engine.
Great Video.
@@jeffdavison8421 thank you! 😀
@@kevincronin60181 It explains timing with a ohm meter to the T. I'm just about finished doing a rebuild on a 1963 5.5 Fisherman. Couldn't have came at more opportune time.
Hi Kevin great tutorial by the way, really helpful ,you don't start by saying where tiller setting should be ,either in stop or start position ?or does this not matter ?.
Thanks Kevin
I see this asked a few times with no response so i will ask myself: Does the throttle need to be set at a specific place?
No. The throttle is self adjusting.
+Kevin Cronin Start.
How did you determine which was top and which was bottom?
Trial and error as I recall.
Great video! So you're adjusting the points and setting the timing at the same time doing it like that?
You should be running smoothly by now.
Thinking back a few months, I’m pretty sure it was a low throttle or around the Shift Speed marking.
wishing my flywheel had an adjustment hole hehehe
You don't have to do all that Just move the flywheel around until the marks line up then adjust the spark gap til it just opens and you lose continuity that's it they're set That's how I do it. My dad owns Falan outdoors and that's how he showed me to do it and that's how he has done it for years.
Isnt that exactly what he did?
Not sure what you mean... Maybe you could do a video and show it to the world on You Tube...
can someone please tell me what the throtle needs to be set at! doesnt it make a differance in timing to have the throtle at a differant position?? please help
Thinking back a few months, I’m pretty sure it was a low throttle or around the Shift Speed marking.
I can't find marks on my flywheel.. Evinrude 5516.. 1958 5.5hp, I think
TIA, Bruce
Sorry to hear this. I don't have an answer for you.
Iboats for the win
Iboats is the best around for good solid advise for parts, and a public forum.
Mine says set points on .20
OK! But this was you don't need to use that setting for points.
@@kevincronin60181 shit man! I’ve done forgotten what the hell we was talking about anyway, give me a year to find out again and I will get back!!
Anyone following this video to tune their engine....TOP on that came means that side UP ...not the top of the lobe. You need to LOOK at where the highest point of the came is if using a feeler gauge OR use the meter set on continuity or BEEP setting. If you have bought SIERRA after market points....JUNK in my opinion, you may NOT be able to get your gap set with that CAM screw and may need to move them by prying them with your screw driver.
can i do it on a johnson 60 hp with CDI?
+thcrivellari I have no idea! Would have to see the engine. If it has points, why not?
thcrivellari no you can't, CDI ignition uses a power pack instead of a points and condenser system. no points to set
YOU ARE MUMBLING...TAKE OUT THE CIGARETTE...!
I am now a NON-Smoker.
great video. the head gasket looks suspect-pregnant with salt,ill bet its rotted and ready to fail art ob mech former hydro racer
+Arthur Milmore I Don't believe this engine ever seen salt water. A few months later I did replace the the gasket on the head by the water jacket.
Need to work on video skills rest seams to be good
@@jackdavis1808 I'm not a professional actor, Im run of the hill guy down the street sharing mechanical experience in hopes of helping others.
If you have to break it down like you're talking to a 5 year old they shouldn't be working on a motor
i disagree the way he explained helped alot
Okay! Lol
Each to their own. I'm thrilled that a number of people liked and received some help with this video.
Thank you!