This is the channel, every budget builder needs. I love that your videos are 1: Relatively short, so what’s being compared doesn’t get lost in a 15 minute video, 2: You ONLY time what the current change was, so people can see what that particular upgrade gains you, 3: You’re doing this on a back road, not a prepped drag strip and 4: You’re showing what’s most important…0-60 & 1320 E.T. A lot of videos get lost in the “let’s put it on the dyno”. I don’t care what a machine says I’ve increased, I want to know what matters…real world performance gains. Not a “slip of paper” gains. Great channel, my guy. Keep doing this. I love it.
^ This I did a lot of nonsense to a 1997 2.2l s10. Didnt care about dyno numbers; I wanted actual results. I tuned it and sized the intake runners and exhaust diameter along with all kinds of other upgrades for said results. Everything I did had a purpose and research/reasoning behind it. The base I had to start with was that it had decent low end torque but got really wheezy at higher RPMs. I wound up with a naturally aspirated 2.2l s10, well known to be S L O W, doing low to mid 15s quarters and a low to mid 7s 0-60 time. It took 16-17 seconds to get to 60 stock. 20 years ago it would have been a great little sleeper...in 2020 it was just 'adequate' 🤣 But WOW was it rewarding to be putting down some 80s muscle car numbers with a 5 speed 2.2l pickup truck. It also handled with a built suspension under it.
I've been down this road before , you're trying to get all you can out of what you've got , I salute you for that , at least you're trying to do something positive ! I did this when I was in the Army with a 68 Chevelle , went from hopping up the 307 which was a turd , to a 350 & finally a 454 ! Ditched the 10 bolt for a 12 bolt with 4.11s , Turbo 350 to a 400 swapping stall converters everyother weekend just trying new combinations ! Just do you & stay focused , impress yourself that's all that matters 🔥🔥✌️
Let’s keep it honest, because I did too… not the service part tho. How much did you break? I took the bell housing off of a turbo 350… damn u joints and bottle babies. Take care, welcome home.
I’m so addicted to this, no crazy 1300hp LS AWD conversion, just getting what you can with what you got, normal car and love to see what you pick up with every little upgrade.
I was able to get a 14.9@92 back in the 90's, with my 85 IROC-Z TPI. I only added a Hypertech Chip, and a 1 in 2 out Flowmaster muffler welded into the stock system. That was considered quick back then lol...
I once bought a Boss Hogg stall converter for my Th400. They sent me one that was packaged with the right part number, but it’s splines were wrong. I then ordered a GM25 converter.
Nice! I had 2 '89 Formula 350s. One was parts car, the other was racecar. Long story short I ended up having a 383 Stroker, carbed, and matched up to a 4L80E trans with a quick shift kit, upgraded suspension, etc.. That car was damn fast! High 10s Low 11s all day, and night without skippin' a beat. While also having full interior, full glass, A/C, and a a couple of speakers in the way back. Loved that damn car...
I like seeing how much Every bolton gives u allmost as much as driving the car bc its Fun seeing how much Faster it gets this is what Hotroding is All about next get hedders if u Dont havum then a Cam then a alum.driveshaft then a sc mabie after a 9in.rearend,good vodio
Enjoyed the video and don't listen to these keyboard warrior haters, gotta start somewhere. Im currently building an 87 Camaro 305 LT rebuilt the 700r4 recently and thought about a TC upgrade but wanted to wait till I upgrade the 2.73 gears to 3.23 gears first, nice to see you had good results.
Not sure if you have done it yet but disconnect your front sway bar for more weight transfer to the back and see how that works out for you, Champ. I know the motor is way down on power but I see what you are doing. It's fun and entertaining to see something something progress. I remember doing this to my fox body 5.0 in early 90's.
I like what you are doing! I think its cool that your building a 305 Firebird! I built a 283 sbc in my 1967 Impala Fastback back in the day and it surprised many people who thought they had more!
Try this. You dont want to load that convertor in a heavy car like that. Leave from a dead idle and floor it. It will hit the convertor harder and the tires for a better launch.
I always will love these cars. But it just seems those 305s were not power houses unless really really worked on lol. But this combination of improvements is certainly I threshing to watch.
Oh, wow I thought I was going to have to wait longer to see this video on the stall converter upgrade. I just left a comment on your last video on how I thought this stall would actually make it slower. lol, awesome. I did say that it would go slower unless you got better traction though.
This is a great series/build!!! (Subscribed & like button engaged!) The other guys with their 'sponsored builds' are nice but this is great, keep at it and thanks for sharing your hits & misses. Can you share what you're using to record your test runs (camera and drag timer), thanks!
Very cool mod series. Enjoy seeing the gradual improvement as you go along. Your car is light enough. Just keep going with power adders and improvements. Adding the Hoosiers isn't a negative. There's good knowledge in learning how they react. Drop your PSI n them a little for even better hook. Softer ratio shocks in the rear will help and they are fairly inexpensive. Get more cold air to the engine and maybe a custom tune too. Keep after it!
I really like the direct comparisons on these videos and they are right to the point. I have a 3rd gen Camaro and the best mod I've ever done was taking out the 1980's truck 350 it had and put in a 350 Vortec from a 1997 K1500 truck, what a difference. The 1980's truck 350 was faster than the original TBI IROC-Z 305 but the Vortec felt like it was at least 80-100hp more. I got the Vortec 350 for $60 from a co-worker (had to pull it out myself though) then swapped it to carb using a used Edelbrock performer RPM intake manifold, Edelbrock carb and a Holley "Blue" fuel pump. It has a World class T-5 5-speed manual trans (R.I.P. 2nd gear) and 3.73 gears with a mini spool and a MSD 6AL ignition box. Next is a T-56 transmission swap
All these negative comments, i read a comment that said you didn’t need those tires but the way you are going and learning you will eventually need them. You are on your way to becoming great. Love this video! Subscriber gained 👍🏼💪🏼
I love a good "every man's build" I've been climbing the slow thirdgen tree for a long time. Some things that helped mine were a aluminum drive shaft (from gta or 4th gen ls1 car), underdrive pullies, 3" cat back exhaust with flow through muffler, not a cross-flow. I also take my front sway bar end links off when I drag race. It seems to bite a little better off the line. Not throwing shade, but I would expect that car to be about a second faster in the 1/4 with what you have done. I'll assume you have made sure the secondaries are fully opening and your total timing is somewhere around 34-36 degrees and your spark plugs look like a lightly toasted marshmallow.
Typically every tenth on the 60' is worth .15 in the quarter. If your traction is good, try not loading the converter and see how it reacts. I had an 87 Monte Carlo with a 305 I had some fun with, so i know your pain!
Awesome video and cool car. I love 3 gen camaros and their firebird cousins. Im 44, so the mid to late 80s 5.0 mustangs and camaros were the first cool cars my friends and brother had. I later got a 94 Mustang GT that was modded with bolt ons. Has this car got the TBI or TPI engine? One thing these cars dont get credit for is how good they handled. Firebirds & Camaros (especially Irocs) handled like a Ferrari compared to the mustang and most cars of that era. I currently drive a midly tuned BMW 535 M-Sport. Stock, its just a 300 hp 14 second car. With a cheap tune and cat delete it runs a 12.7. pretty quick for a 4200 lb AWD 10 year old full size sports luxury car with a small 3.0 engine. Its a very nice car to drive, comfort, handling, stero and AWD for Northern Canada winters.
I love this car and project man. Looking when you removed your transmission, it looks like you could have a tenth or so to pick up in your exhaust system. Good luck man!
It helped, but I feel like it would have liked a little bit looser converter. 25 years ago I put a 3000 stall in my cam + bolt on 350 TPI car, all of the "experts" said it was too loose and would make it slower. Guess what? It worked extremely well. I even swapped in a 2400 stall that they felt was "perfect", and it slowed down almost .25 of a second. I put the 3000 back and went back going faster. My personal experiences, if you have the tire and suspension - you want a converter that flashes close to the RPM where the engine makes peak TQ. I feel like a lot of people fear a big converter and the proper gear ratio. Also, just for giggles - try a quick clean off of the tires with little to no water. See if it helps get the initial wheel speed up to get the car moving faster on the initial hit. I'm currently fighting too tight of a converter and not enough gear in my project. I've got it to 60' better by hardly doing a burnout. It's almost a full tenth quicker in the 60' by doing almost no burnout.
Same here, TH350 with a 3500rpm 8in stall with anti balloon plates. Dropped a 2 tenths in my 60 foot on a stock 350 TPI engine! Also with these 700r4s you can do the lockup switch. Not an option with the th350.
I agree on the converter. I have a converter that stalls 3,000 rpm in the 4L85E behind the 383 in my Express van that I tow with. 7,000 lbs van and I have had more than 8,000 lbs behind it. Puts the 383 right up into its powerband. The van needs a lower gear than the 3.73 for all out acceleration but for its weight and brick like aerodynamics its not exactly slow either.
Looking at ur old time its pretty comparable to my old truck. I have a 71 f100 4x4 shortbox with a .060 over 390 i built & a granny low 4spd & it has 4.11 grears in the axles. I ran it & i got 0 - 60= 7.62 sec. 1/4 mile was 15.41 sec. & it showed a top speed of 97mph but it records my overall top speed, not necessarily top speed in the quarter. So unless i lifted exactly when i was at a 1/4 mile i might have still gained speed past the line. Let me tell ya, with 4.11 gears & no overdrive gear, that 390 was buzzin!!! Lol! But actually i have gotton it to go 15.3 before but when i looked at what i have recorded with my phone it showed me the 15.4 record. Ill have to look for the 15.3 one? Im intersested in the 0-60 times. My ol truck is 4700 lbs & with a granny low 4 gear it takes some focus to lounch that thing & try not to snap axle shafts & output shafts! Lol!
I can’t wait too see what you can do with the ported cylinder head, it should let you rev out your motor more too letting you take better advantage of your transmission. Just from my experience you have too rev out a 4 speed as humanly far as you possibly can too make up for the really wide gearing and with the 4.10s it should work out really well 👍
Let me give you a target. - 1985 Corvette (60' time - 1.93) (0-60 - 5.18) (1/8 - 8.93 at 79.92mph) (1/4 13.93 at 97.97mph) uncorrected times (it was 105 degrees). Mod list b&m transmission, under drive pulley (don't use the alternator pulley or your battery won't charge), ram air, cat back, 3.73gears (to much gear), mickey thompson tires. STOCK MOTOR! That's a 350 for you. BTW, chirps the 2 to 3 shift.
Good video's. I HATE pulling the trans on these cars !!! Are the valves in the heads on the engine the largest that will work with that 305 bore ? I did a head swap on a guys car once when he came up with some factory iron 305 heads with big valves in them and it definitely made some difference for that little engine.
IF we got you one of our "Street Bandit Series" converter will you show the difference between a heavy 12 inch converter Vs our Super light lock up GM 700R4 10 inch converter? It is 12 to 14 Lbs lighter. The Less rotational mass will pick you up quite a bit more MPH and lower your ET.
@bosshogtorqueconverters2549 if you are serious about doing something with a 10 converter I’m looking to purchase a new converter for the car this week. What would be the best way to contact you?
It’s all good a few videos back I talk about plans with car and why I’m keeping the 305 intentionally. For exactly like you said using what you have most of these 3rd gens came with a 305 and no one builds them because replacing it with something better like a ls or 400sbc makes more sense if you want to go fast. But it’s my wife’s first “street race car” and it allows her to learn as I did and grow with the car as it gets faster. Not a lot of TH-cam videos of a 10sec 305sbc may be a waste of time and money but the journey is the best part. Next video should be up next week sometime the Ported081 heads made a significant difference. Appreciate the comments positive or negative and all the likes and subs helps grow the channel and love reading the feed back.
I'd say 3 to 5 tenths with good traction 60 foot should be better throttle response should also improve and rev off idle more quickly with a 2800 most street small blocks make peak torque between 3200-4200rpm unless it has a big cam with 242+ duration then around 4500 - 4800rpm and need 3500+ converter
Lord I forgot how slow these actually where. A Kia Telluride would smoke it. I dont think you need a drag tire there lol youre not struggling for traction you need more power!
Not hating this. Just one question...Why wouldn't you just change the short block to a 350 383 or a 400? Wouldn't that be much cheaper than all these special parts?
Classic definition of "Trying to polish a turd". Your POS is 1. a Chevy, and 2. a 305, so it is already slow + slow. I remember back in the days of being broke-ass broke, I did similar things, to be able to do SOMETHING, but it really isn't worth it. Put on a 75 horsepower nitrous kit, you'll get more for the money.
I would have left the 308 gear ratio and just put the stall converter.. Find a way to lighten the car.. And put a cam in it. Better fuel economy and you can take it on a trip
I’m trying to do similar to you but mine has a 350 it’s a 1989 formula but has a open rear end 2.73 350 swapped in was tbi now it’s 4bbl with air gap and header with full exhaust. Trying to find a posi rearend but in till then just spins one tire. If anyone has a rearend or know of what car or truck I can pull a differential out of to swap in my car much appreciated.
When doing any head work or cam selection, I recommend researching David Vizard. Also, try just lighting up the torque converter instead of loading it. That 2400-2600 rating could flash up another 200rpm if you suddenly stomp from idle to full throttle rather than foot brake it, and that could give you a smidge better holeshot. Another thing if you're gonna stick with the 305 for a while more; consider making a 180-degree dual throttle body (or is this carb'd?) intake manifold. I WOULD say try making ITBs, but that'd be MUCH harder than a homemade medium-runner sheet metal manifold. IDK what your fab skills are like, though or if you can source velocity stacks/bellmouths or just generally make flared ends/smooth transitions if it's a joined manifold. The point I'm getting at with this is throttle response. If you can spike that converter EVEN HARDER off idle with an engine that revs and responds instantly, it'll be all the better for your launch and 60ft time. Question, though: Why'd you (in some opinions) waste time on a converter that close to stock (or what I assume is stock based on how my old Hemi Ram was 2200 stock) when you could've gotten a 3000-3200 or 3200-3400 stall?
Car is drive back and forth to work everyday at the moment and don’t want to add anymore heat to the stock 700r4 then needed it’s only a matter of time before it eats it’s self as it is but if it ain’t broke why fix it.
@@Krikkebobbyracingchannel Is a 700r really that bad? And if so, would it really be so hard to throw a tru-cool 40k at it? As far as "ain't broke don't fix" what was the point of everything you did up until now, then? Not hating or trying to be rude, just curious. Clearly, I'm not well-read on the subject of older motor and trans combos and their weaknesses and strengths.
Congratulations you just got dusted in the quarter mile by my wife's 2007-pacifica. I used to have that car in a 5-speed did a chip exhaust with no converter and the cooler thermostat and it was still slower than my stock Ram truck
@@eatshit8907 the car was way ahead of its time in power and transmission and interior, and not to mention the best overall choice to cart all my kids around in luxury, pretty much the Envy of every mother in my kids school
@@LLTH-cam565 He gained about 3 tenths of a second with those tires and no wheelspin. It takes closer to 250 hp in a 3700 pound car to get those times.
This is the channel, every budget builder needs. I love that your videos are 1: Relatively short, so what’s being compared doesn’t get lost in a 15 minute video, 2: You ONLY time what the current change was, so people can see what that particular upgrade gains you, 3: You’re doing this on a back road, not a prepped drag strip and 4: You’re showing what’s most important…0-60 & 1320 E.T. A lot of videos get lost in the “let’s put it on the dyno”. I don’t care what a machine says I’ve increased, I want to know what matters…real world performance gains. Not a “slip of paper” gains. Great channel, my guy. Keep doing this. I love it.
^ This
I did a lot of nonsense to a 1997 2.2l s10. Didnt care about dyno numbers; I wanted actual results. I tuned it and sized the intake runners and exhaust diameter along with all kinds of other upgrades for said results. Everything I did had a purpose and research/reasoning behind it. The base I had to start with was that it had decent low end torque but got really wheezy at higher RPMs. I wound up with a naturally aspirated 2.2l s10, well known to be S L O W, doing low to mid 15s quarters and a low to mid 7s 0-60 time. It took 16-17 seconds to get to 60 stock. 20 years ago it would have been a great little sleeper...in 2020 it was just 'adequate' 🤣
But WOW was it rewarding to be putting down some 80s muscle car numbers with a 5 speed 2.2l pickup truck. It also handled with a built suspension under it.
I've been down this road before , you're trying to get all you can out of what you've got , I salute you for that , at least you're trying to do something positive ! I did this when I was in the Army with a 68 Chevelle , went from hopping up the 307 which was a turd , to a 350 & finally a 454 ! Ditched the 10 bolt for a 12 bolt with 4.11s , Turbo 350 to a 400 swapping stall converters everyother weekend just trying new combinations ! Just do you & stay focused , impress yourself that's all that matters 🔥🔥✌️
Let’s keep it honest, because I did too… not the service part tho.
How much did you break? I took the bell housing off of a turbo 350… damn u joints and bottle babies. Take care, welcome home.
I’m so addicted to this, no crazy 1300hp LS AWD conversion, just getting what you can with what you got, normal car and love to see what you pick up with every little upgrade.
Don't know why nobody else has done this style of channel. Great idea. This channel should blow up
Fuck the haters, keep at it. You're building good car experience. Everybody has to start somewhere.
I was able to get a 14.9@92 back in the 90's, with my 85 IROC-Z TPI. I only added a Hypertech Chip, and a 1 in 2 out Flowmaster muffler welded into the stock system. That was considered quick back then lol...
I once bought a Boss Hogg stall converter for my Th400. They sent me one that was packaged with the right part number, but it’s splines were wrong. I then ordered a GM25 converter.
Nice! I had 2 '89 Formula 350s. One was parts car, the other was racecar.
Long story short I ended up having a 383 Stroker, carbed, and matched up to a 4L80E trans with a quick shift kit, upgraded suspension, etc.. That car was damn fast! High 10s Low 11s all day, and night without skippin' a beat. While also having full interior, full glass, A/C, and a a couple of speakers in the way back. Loved that damn car...
I like seeing how much Every bolton gives u allmost as much as driving the car bc its Fun seeing how much Faster it gets this is what Hotroding is All about next get hedders if u Dont havum then a Cam then a alum.driveshaft then a sc mabie after a 9in.rearend,good vodio
Nothing wrong with working with what you got I like it 👍🏼
Love what your doing! Counting the episodes till the turbo gets put in...muhahahaha
You just gained a new subscriber and follower! This the type of video for us true low budget builders!
Enjoyed the video and don't listen to these keyboard warrior haters, gotta start somewhere. Im currently building an 87 Camaro 305 LT rebuilt the 700r4 recently and thought about a TC upgrade but wanted to wait till I upgrade the 2.73 gears to 3.23 gears first, nice to see you had good results.
Not sure if you have done it yet but disconnect your front sway bar for more weight transfer to the back and see how that works out for you, Champ. I know the motor is way down on power but I see what you are doing. It's fun and entertaining to see something something progress. I remember doing this to my fox body 5.0 in early 90's.
Reminds me of my younger days. Keep it up!
I like what you are doing! I think its cool that your building a 305 Firebird! I built a 283 sbc in my 1967 Impala Fastback back in the day and it surprised many people who thought they had more!
Love videos like this. Keep us updated with each mod and show us and before and after ! Seeing progress is awesome.
Glad I found your channel bro I got a 305 91 firebird glad to see somebody putting content out for us😭
I went from 3.10 to 3.73 in my '80 Corvette. I also improved a whole two tenths in the quarter mile and broke more half shaft joints haha. Rock on
Try this. You dont want to load that convertor in a heavy car like that. Leave from a dead idle and floor it. It will hit the convertor harder and the tires for a better launch.
I dig the way you get after it!
Enjoy all your videos. Great stuff
I always will love these cars. But it just seems those 305s were not power houses unless really really worked on lol. But this combination of improvements is certainly I threshing to watch.
Great job! so nice to see an average guy doing his thing, and the struggle to get there! 👍
Impressive I would turned timing up for the top end NGK race plugs with 1-7/8 kooks headers obviously cam head and pistons down the road.
Oh, wow I thought I was going to have to wait longer to see this video on the stall converter upgrade. I just left a comment on your last video on how I thought this stall would actually make it slower. lol, awesome. I did say that it would go slower unless you got better traction though.
Great video. Someone finally provided useful information!
This is a great series/build!!! (Subscribed & like button engaged!) The other guys with their 'sponsored builds' are nice but this is great, keep at it and thanks for sharing your hits & misses. Can you share what you're using to record your test runs (camera and drag timer), thanks!
Very cool mod series. Enjoy seeing the gradual improvement as you go along.
Your car is light enough. Just keep going with power adders and improvements. Adding the Hoosiers isn't a negative. There's good knowledge in learning how they react. Drop your PSI n them a little for even better hook. Softer ratio shocks in the rear will help and they are fairly inexpensive. Get more cold air to the engine and maybe a custom tune too. Keep after it!
I really like the direct comparisons on these videos and they are right to the point.
I have a 3rd gen Camaro and the best mod I've ever done was taking out the 1980's truck 350 it had and put in a 350 Vortec from a 1997 K1500 truck, what a difference. The 1980's truck 350 was faster than the original TBI IROC-Z 305 but the Vortec felt like it was at least 80-100hp more. I got the Vortec 350 for $60 from a co-worker (had to pull it out myself though) then swapped it to carb using a used Edelbrock performer RPM intake manifold, Edelbrock carb and a Holley "Blue" fuel pump. It has a World class T-5 5-speed manual trans (R.I.P. 2nd gear) and 3.73 gears with a mini spool and a MSD 6AL ignition box. Next is a T-56 transmission swap
All these negative comments, i read a comment that said you didn’t need those tires but the way you are going and learning you will eventually need them. You are on your way to becoming great. Love this video! Subscriber gained 👍🏼💪🏼
I love a good "every man's build" I've been climbing the slow thirdgen tree for a long time. Some things that helped mine were a aluminum drive shaft (from gta or 4th gen ls1 car), underdrive pullies, 3" cat back exhaust with flow through muffler, not a cross-flow. I also take my front sway bar end links off when I drag race. It seems to bite a little better off the line.
Not throwing shade, but I would expect that car to be about a second faster in the 1/4 with what you have done. I'll assume you have made sure the secondaries are fully opening and your total timing is somewhere around 34-36 degrees and your spark plugs look like a lightly toasted marshmallow.
Typically every tenth on the 60' is worth .15 in the quarter. If your traction is good, try not loading the converter and see how it reacts.
I had an 87 Monte Carlo with a 305 I had some fun with, so i know your pain!
Ayyyyyye good video bro. Now she just needs some more power and some suspension work and don’t forget brakes. Love the process tho keep going
Awesome video and cool car. I love 3 gen camaros and their firebird cousins. Im 44, so the mid to late 80s 5.0 mustangs and camaros were the first cool cars my friends and brother had. I later got a 94 Mustang GT that was modded with bolt ons. Has this car got the TBI or TPI engine? One thing these cars dont get credit for is how good they handled. Firebirds & Camaros (especially Irocs) handled like a Ferrari compared to the mustang and most cars of that era. I currently drive a midly tuned BMW 535 M-Sport. Stock, its just a 300 hp 14 second car. With a cheap tune and cat delete it runs a 12.7. pretty quick for a 4200 lb AWD 10 year old full size sports luxury car with a small 3.0 engine. Its a very nice car to drive, comfort, handling, stero and AWD for Northern Canada winters.
Wow tires helped alot
My new favorite series
Another fun video with a little more improvement... Interesting to me is the changes don't make as much difference as I expected.
The Hoosiers were probably the bigger change here you can hear the stall speed not go any higher really when brake torqued
I love this car and project man. Looking when you removed your transmission, it looks like you could have a tenth or so to pick up in your exhaust system. Good luck man!
It helped, but I feel like it would have liked a little bit looser converter. 25 years ago I put a 3000 stall in my cam + bolt on 350 TPI car, all of the "experts" said it was too loose and would make it slower. Guess what? It worked extremely well. I even swapped in a 2400 stall that they felt was "perfect", and it slowed down almost .25 of a second. I put the 3000 back and went back going faster.
My personal experiences, if you have the tire and suspension - you want a converter that flashes close to the RPM where the engine makes peak TQ. I feel like a lot of people fear a big converter and the proper gear ratio.
Also, just for giggles - try a quick clean off of the tires with little to no water. See if it helps get the initial wheel speed up to get the car moving faster on the initial hit. I'm currently fighting too tight of a converter and not enough gear in my project. I've got it to 60' better by hardly doing a burnout. It's almost a full tenth quicker in the 60' by doing almost no burnout.
Same here, TH350 with a 3500rpm 8in stall with anti balloon plates. Dropped a 2 tenths in my 60 foot on a stock 350 TPI engine! Also with these 700r4s you can do the lockup switch. Not an option with the th350.
I agree on the converter. I have a converter that stalls 3,000 rpm in the 4L85E behind the 383 in my Express van that I tow with. 7,000 lbs van and I have had more than 8,000 lbs behind it. Puts the 383 right up into its powerband. The van needs a lower gear than the 3.73 for all out acceleration but for its weight and brick like aerodynamics its not exactly slow either.
Looking at ur old time its pretty comparable to my old truck. I have a 71 f100 4x4 shortbox with a .060 over 390 i built & a granny low 4spd & it has 4.11 grears in the axles. I ran it & i got 0 - 60= 7.62 sec. 1/4 mile was 15.41 sec. & it showed a top speed of 97mph but it records my overall top speed, not necessarily top speed in the quarter. So unless i lifted exactly when i was at a 1/4 mile i might have still gained speed past the line. Let me tell ya, with 4.11 gears & no overdrive gear, that 390 was buzzin!!! Lol! But actually i have gotton it to go 15.3 before but when i looked at what i have recorded with my phone it showed me the 15.4 record. Ill have to look for the 15.3 one? Im intersested in the 0-60 times. My ol truck is 4700 lbs & with a granny low 4 gear it takes some focus to lounch that thing & try not to snap axle shafts & output shafts! Lol!
I can’t wait too see what you can do with the ported cylinder head, it should let you rev out your motor more too letting you take better advantage of your transmission. Just from my experience you have too rev out a 4 speed as humanly far as you possibly can too make up for the really wide gearing and with the 4.10s it should work out really well 👍
I'm glad you're having fun Etc but by all means your car didn't need those Hoosiers😂😂
That thing hauls all man
I can dig it brother
Let me give you a target. - 1985 Corvette (60' time - 1.93) (0-60 - 5.18) (1/8 - 8.93 at 79.92mph) (1/4 13.93 at 97.97mph) uncorrected times (it was 105 degrees). Mod list b&m transmission, under drive pulley (don't use the alternator pulley or your battery won't charge), ram air, cat back, 3.73gears (to much gear), mickey thompson tires. STOCK MOTOR! That's a 350 for you. BTW, chirps the 2 to 3 shift.
The 9in torque converter would really give you the performance you’re looking for you mainly gained from the Hoosier tires here
Good video's. I HATE pulling the trans on these cars !!! Are the valves in the heads on the engine the largest that will work with that 305 bore ? I did a head swap on a guys car once when he came up with some factory iron 305 heads with big valves in them and it definitely made some difference for that little engine.
a nice highflow dougs y pipe will help your et as well
IF we got you one of our "Street Bandit Series" converter will you show the difference between a heavy 12 inch converter Vs our Super light lock up GM 700R4 10 inch converter? It is 12 to 14 Lbs lighter. The Less rotational mass will pick you up quite a bit more MPH and lower your ET.
Yes that would be great was just looking into ordering a 10 inch higher stall converter. Be more then happy to do a comparison video!
@bosshogtorqueconverters2549 if you are serious about doing something with a 10 converter I’m looking to purchase a new converter for the car this week. What would be the best way to contact you?
Nice, alot of hate comments but not everyone can afford or want to go with something better, youre doing great working with what you have 🤙
It’s all good a few videos back I talk about plans with car and why I’m keeping the 305 intentionally. For exactly like you said using what you have most of these 3rd gens came with a 305 and no one builds them because replacing it with something better like a ls or 400sbc makes more sense if you want to go fast. But it’s my wife’s first “street race car” and it allows her to learn as I did and grow with the car as it gets faster. Not a lot of TH-cam videos of a 10sec 305sbc may be a waste of time and money but the journey is the best part. Next video should be up next week sometime the Ported081 heads made a significant difference. Appreciate the comments positive or negative and all the likes and subs helps grow the channel and love reading the feed back.
Man in tasmania they call doing a burnout doing a wheezy.
So from that point of view, it done a pretty good wheezy.
Thay was fast af
I'd say 3 to 5 tenths with good traction 60 foot should be better throttle response should also improve and rev off idle more quickly with a 2800 most street small blocks make peak torque between 3200-4200rpm unless it has a big cam with 242+ duration then around 4500 - 4800rpm and need 3500+ converter
Hey man check into a reverse manual valve body it will that trans and your ets
Lord I forgot how slow these actually where. A Kia Telluride would smoke it. I dont think you need a drag tire there lol youre not struggling for traction you need more power!
I agree, im not seeing a lot of tire smoke, car sliding… just a chirp at second with 4:10 gears.
Raising the stahl in the converter raises the usable power level to higher rpm where most engines are waking up!
Pretty cool. Hey what was that screen marking your times and distance, is that the Torque app. ?
Dragy app
Raise your launch rpm with the Hoosiers to around 3k and try again. You’re short on hp but good video mate
Should've went with 3.73 700r4 setup. Or TH350 with the 4.10
Cool what you're doing. But I don't think cooper cobras need a burnout
Not hating this. Just one question...Why wouldn't you just change the short block to a 350 383 or a 400? Wouldn't that be much cheaper than all these special parts?
Classic definition of "Trying to polish a turd". Your POS is 1. a Chevy, and 2. a 305, so it is already slow + slow. I remember back in the days of being broke-ass broke, I did similar things, to be able to do SOMETHING, but it really isn't worth it. Put on a 75 horsepower nitrous kit, you'll get more for the money.
boy those 305s were dogs
You need a 10" converter.
Turbo it next! Blowthru carb
I would have left the 308 gear ratio and just put the stall converter.. Find a way to lighten the car.. And put a cam in it. Better fuel economy and you can take it on a trip
I 4got get a 373 gear with the ford 9in rear
I’m trying to do similar to you but mine has a 350 it’s a 1989 formula but has a open rear end 2.73 350 swapped in was tbi now it’s 4bbl with air gap and header with full exhaust. Trying to find a posi rearend but in till then just spins one tire. If anyone has a rearend or know of what car or truck I can pull a differential out of to swap in my car much appreciated.
When doing any head work or cam selection, I recommend researching David Vizard. Also, try just lighting up the torque converter instead of loading it. That 2400-2600 rating could flash up another 200rpm if you suddenly stomp from idle to full throttle rather than foot brake it, and that could give you a smidge better holeshot. Another thing if you're gonna stick with the 305 for a while more; consider making a 180-degree dual throttle body (or is this carb'd?) intake manifold.
I WOULD say try making ITBs, but that'd be MUCH harder than a homemade medium-runner sheet metal manifold. IDK what your fab skills are like, though or if you can source velocity stacks/bellmouths or just generally make flared ends/smooth transitions if it's a joined manifold. The point I'm getting at with this is throttle response. If you can spike that converter EVEN HARDER off idle with an engine that revs and responds instantly, it'll be all the better for your launch and 60ft time.
Question, though: Why'd you (in some opinions) waste time on a converter that close to stock (or what I assume is stock based on how my old Hemi Ram was 2200 stock) when you could've gotten a 3000-3200 or 3200-3400 stall?
Car is drive back and forth to work everyday at the moment and don’t want to add anymore heat to the stock 700r4 then needed it’s only a matter of time before it eats it’s self as it is but if it ain’t broke why fix it.
@@Krikkebobbyracingchannel Is a 700r really that bad? And if so, would it really be so hard to throw a tru-cool 40k at it? As far as "ain't broke don't fix" what was the point of everything you did up until now, then? Not hating or trying to be rude, just curious. Clearly, I'm not well-read on the subject of older motor and trans combos and their weaknesses and strengths.
@@Krikkebobbyracingchannel Yeah if it's a daily probably best to keep the converter you have.
Ls swapping it in the future?
I'd try shifting that around 5500
Shift around 5800
Congratulations you just got dusted in the quarter mile by my wife's 2007-pacifica. I used to have that car in a 5-speed did a chip exhaust with no converter and the cooler thermostat and it was still slower than my stock Ram truck
You’re bragging about making your wife drive an 07 Pacifica? 😂😅😂
The funny part is he put race tires on it LOL LOL gotta get all 180HP to the ground LOL LOL
@@LLTH-cam565 not to mention the water on the ground to facilitate spinning
@@eatshit8907 the car was way ahead of its time in power and transmission and interior, and not to mention the best overall choice to cart all my kids around in luxury, pretty much the Envy of every mother in my kids school
@@LLTH-cam565 He gained about 3 tenths of a second with those tires and no wheelspin. It takes closer to 250 hp in a 3700 pound car to get those times.
Get rid of the 305 and get a 350
Nah..not worth it
Fucking awesome vid bud