Thanks for putting this together. I just bought 2001 and Im having vacuum line issues.Great sense of humor, at least I got a good laugh. Looking forward to more vids.
You are quite informative , I'll be doing this in the weeks coming 97 ,12 V and your video will help much . Not to mention I want fried chicken right now, thanks brother
Excellent video !! But good grief how do you get that lower engine side pump bracket undone ??? Can't get a wrench or socket with enough travel to loosen the nut on the pump, and can't get one on the bolt to the block! Just spent 2 hours trying to get it done when it should be a 2 minute job . Do you need to turn the front wheels one way so the pitman arm is not in the way ?????? My tires are straight ahead and I'm thinking the pitman may be limiting ratchet/wrench motion. I walked away from it now for the rest of the day, and will look at your video again and others, but if anyone has a quick answer I'd sure appreciate it !!!! BTW I'm quite a hobbyist mechanic on this and project cars but this one nut/bolt/fastener is getting the best of me right now !!!
Ok I see now right around the 14:15 mark of your video. This is where the wheel well removal comes into play. The camera angle threw me off at first .. what you do is operate the ratchet almost parallel to the ground (rather than vertical to the ground) and use the extra space gained by the wheel well removal for the movement of the ratchet to loosen that nut on that bracket mount that goes to the block. I'll get back to it soon. Thanks again for the great video !
If you can find a product called BG power steering fluid it will fix the cold morning growl, most auto dealers sell it as a service, (powering steering flush), I know BG works and it is a synthetic, dont know if any other brands will work
Hey man, great video! Just so you know, torque wrenches are for bringing a bolt up to torque, NOT for breaking bolts loose. I have been working on aircraft for 20 years, and that would get you yelled at the 1st time, fired the 2nd time. Like I said, awesome video, you showed everything I needed to do the pump on my 2000. Thanks!
Thanks for the great video brother! Very detailed video helped me get my pump off. Spent hours trying to get it off and didn't know there was that one bolt that holds it on the block. Have a good one and keep up the detailed videos for all of us DIY's.
@@johnmaxx4818 two severe TBI'S and three brain surgeries will easily do that to ya. Never stopped me, just gotta re-learn everything all over again and now kinda slower at grasping things.
Your tips on gaining access to the vac pump were super-helpful. I would not have thought of removing the fender liner. Removing the intercooler to intake manifold hose helped with top down access, although I went further and pulled the driver side battery. And lastly, I urge viewers to pressure wash the side of the engine at a DIY carwash after removing the fender liner. The side of my engine was loaded with dirt and oil-soaked gunk that likely would have fallen into the gear case while pulling or reinstalling the vac pump. Permit me to offer your viewers some advice on getting replacement plastic rivets to reinstall the fender liner - I suggest using Auveco plastic rivets, P/N 18108, at $8.50 for a box of 25. Mopar rivets, P/N 34201631 at $7.75 per rivet, were way too expensive!
I'm not looking forward to removing mine on a 99 5.9 2500. I already replaced both P S hoses but I keep losing fluid somewhere. I have a new PS pump so I'm going to pull off with the vacuum pump attached. wondering if I should reseal the vacuum pump while I have it off? I just bought the truck 2 weeks ago and had to replace the AC compressor and drier and the high pressure line. It going to be so hot and I don't even have a shade tree to work under.
I just did mine several times again and yea man you should reaseal it use the Genos garage seal kit they guarantee to hold I tried several parts store ones and the gaskets are to small
Thanks for posting, good camera work trying to get a better shot. I offer this in return: I've heard that you should not use a torque wrench to loosen nuts because it can throw off the calibration, FWIW.
Was it a pretty bad leak, I probably lose 3 quarts of oil per 70 miles. It looks real wet down toward that area but I can't tell if it's coming from the tappet cover or the Vac pump. I got a quote from the shop without them looking at it they told $2,000 over the phone. So I'm going to try the task myself and try to do the front main seal to. Any insight would be great awesome video by the way
Why are you using a torque wrench to back out the bolts? You're using a huge ratchet in a small area it's very counterintuitive unless it's for Leverage. The only really needs a torque wrench when you're installing
Reckless Savage the transfer case broke off the overdrive housing so I took it to A Plus transmissions in Austin and they said the transfer case was broke ...well I don't,know much about transmission but I knew for sure the transfer case wasn't broke so,I got it home disassembled the transfer case and,nothing was wrong well maybe some scaring on the input shaft...anyway I just need a transmission rebuild 2001 2500 4x4 automatic swb 100 percent stock thank you can help a loyal viewer ?maybe even give you some content for your channel
Rodney Plummer II honestly I am not much on trasmissions , but I've seen the chain inside t tcase housing break them off or your driveshaft carrier bearing being out
my cousin says in this video about kinking off the hoses to keep air out of the system, well you can but you dont really get air in the system as long as you add fluid after reconnecting the hoses and pump.start the vehicle and the air should circulate out if you leave the cap off
Hey Reckless Savage, I'm trying to reinstall the vacuum pump/power steering assembly but I'm having trouble with the stud/bolt for the bracket going back into the assembly. Any tips?
sorry it took so long to get back to you I was on mobile when I seen your message, honestly I leave the mounting one attached to Motor , and remove the 15 mm nut they are very small torque ratio, I had the same issue as you at first and I had all kinds of stuff mis aligned but ive done this 20 times now
Hello, i forgot to mention, i don't let my fluids just FALL ON THE GROUND i have a pan down there and i did catch all the fluid everytime i did this procedure ! thanks..
Yo, what problem were you having in order to replace your Vacuum Pump? I’ve swapped out the Steering box, Hydroboost, lines, pump but Not the Vacuum Pump and I have Zero Power steering at a stand still or when trying to back up my trailer.... I am going to swap out the Vacuum pump and hope that fixes my issue. Let me know your thoughts Savage, thanks!
Hi, excuse me to disturb you, I have a question about the hole thread on the middle of gear of the vacuum pump, is it normal, or is there a bolt ? it's strange this hole on the middle . I need to change mine, I hope it take less of 2 hours . thank you for your answer and for this excellent video !
Great video, man! No BS. I was able to find a N.O.S power steering and vacuum pump assembly for a good price. I am getting ready to swap soon and rebuild the original pumps. Any tips for install and bleeding air?
Because obviously it didn’t work trying to crappy seals from autozone so I bought a Gould’s , I actually just replaced the seal again , with Gould’s and it isn’t leaking , autozone seal will leak every time
Savage you save my life
Keep posting more videos
I had the same problem with that brand too
Man, this is a great video, thanks for making it...!
Thanks 👊🏻💪🏻
Thanks for putting this together. I just bought 2001 and Im having vacuum line issues.Great sense of humor, at least I got a good laugh. Looking forward to more vids.
You are quite informative , I'll be doing this in the weeks coming 97 ,12 V and your video will help much . Not to mention I want fried chicken right now, thanks brother
i try will do more videos soon , love these cummins
Thanks for the guide. Nice filming work too.
Excellent video !! But good grief how do you get that lower engine side pump bracket undone ??? Can't get a wrench or socket with enough travel to loosen the nut on the pump, and can't get one on the bolt to the block! Just spent 2 hours trying to get it done when it should be a 2 minute job . Do you need to turn the front wheels one way so the pitman arm is not in the way ?????? My tires are straight ahead and I'm thinking the pitman may be limiting ratchet/wrench motion. I walked away from it now for the rest of the day, and will look at your video again and others, but if anyone has a quick answer I'd sure appreciate it !!!! BTW I'm quite a hobbyist mechanic on this and project cars but this one nut/bolt/fastener is getting the best of me right now !!!
Ok I see now right around the 14:15 mark of your video. This is where the wheel well removal comes into play. The camera angle threw me off at first .. what you do is operate the ratchet almost parallel to the ground (rather than vertical to the ground) and use the extra space gained by the wheel well removal for the movement of the ratchet to loosen that nut on that bracket mount that goes to the block. I'll get back to it soon. Thanks again for the great video !
Awesome video. I have an '02 and had that replaced twice now. This morning, with the first cold day, it started growling again.
If you can find a product called BG power steering fluid it will fix the cold morning growl, most auto dealers sell it as a service, (powering steering flush), I know BG works and it is a synthetic, dont know if any other brands will work
You really are a thoughtful and thorough educator, sir. Many thanks for sharing this!
Just took mine out in my 98. This video was a huge help, thank you.
Hey man, great video!
Just so you know, torque wrenches are for bringing a bolt up to torque, NOT for breaking bolts loose. I have been working on aircraft for 20 years, and that would get you yelled at the 1st time, fired the 2nd time.
Like I said, awesome video, you showed everything I needed to do the pump on my 2000. Thanks!
i know i just didnt have the proper tool at the time lmao tricky spot
Thanks for the great video brother! Very detailed video helped me get my pump off. Spent hours trying to get it off and didn't know there was that one bolt that holds it on the block. Have a good one and keep up the detailed videos for all of us DIY's.
Jake Leary thanks for the feedback , I don’t recommend a torque wrench for removing like me , but I didn’t have a breaker bar
That one bolt to the block ,wasted hrs
@@johnmaxx4818 two severe TBI'S and three brain surgeries will easily do that to ya. Never stopped me, just gotta re-learn everything all over again and now kinda slower at grasping things.
@@jacobbleary4806 a positive attitude and your half way there,I can understand using torque wrench as a breaker bar, been there
Why would you use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt? It doesn't matter the torque as it has to come out?
Before you comment i shouldnt use a torque wrench lol , im aware, but hey , it was what i had and so far my torque wrenches still work lol ..
Your tips on gaining access to the vac pump were super-helpful.
I would not have thought of removing the fender liner. Removing the intercooler to intake manifold hose helped with top down access, although I went further and pulled the driver side battery. And lastly, I urge viewers to pressure wash the side of the engine at a DIY carwash after removing the fender liner. The side of my engine was loaded with dirt and oil-soaked gunk that likely would have fallen into the gear case while pulling or reinstalling the vac pump.
Permit me to offer your viewers some advice on getting replacement plastic rivets to reinstall the fender liner - I suggest using Auveco plastic rivets, P/N 18108, at $8.50 for a box of 25. Mopar rivets, P/N 34201631 at $7.75 per rivet, were way too expensive!
John P. Callan yes I recommend this a well, I need to do it XD thanks John for your helpful input, I also need more rivets
Thanks for posting this brother!!!!
So did the good brand seal stop the leak?
yea it worked perfect unfortunately its leaking again after the years
I guess the chickens and owls was your background music
I'm not looking forward to removing mine on a 99 5.9 2500. I already replaced both P S hoses but I keep losing fluid somewhere. I have a new PS pump so I'm going to pull off with the vacuum pump attached. wondering if I should reseal the vacuum pump while I have it off? I just bought the truck 2 weeks ago and had to replace the AC compressor and drier and the high pressure line. It going to be so hot and I don't even have a shade tree to work under.
I just did mine several times again and yea man you should reaseal it use the Genos garage seal kit they guarantee to hold I tried several parts store ones and the gaskets are to small
I’ve put mine back in but forgot what vacuum line plugs into it at the bottom please help.
It plugs in the side . It’s running from the brake booster by the firewall , the fluid hoses are kinda self explaining only so long
Thanks for posting, good camera work trying to get a better shot. I offer this in return: I've heard that you should not use a torque wrench to loosen nuts because it can throw off the calibration, FWIW.
Ron H ohh I know it's also been dropped alot lmao , I'm get a breaker bar
Video was helpful but the camera work is terrible. So hard to watch
Was it a pretty bad leak, I probably lose 3 quarts of oil per 70 miles. It looks real wet down toward that area but I can't tell if it's coming from the tappet cover or the Vac pump. I got a quote from the shop without them looking at it they told $2,000 over the phone. So I'm going to try the task myself and try to do the front main seal to. Any insight would be great awesome video by the way
Try tappet cover gasket
Why are you using a torque wrench to back out the bolts? You're using a huge ratchet in a small area it's very counterintuitive unless it's for Leverage. The only really needs a torque wrench when you're installing
He was using it as a breaker bar. What ever works.
@@regularguy519 that was a torque wrench and it was not necessary at all
What brand vacuum pump did you use after the dorman?
Wabco it’s a factory remanufactured
Feed the damn chickens..... They are hollering!!!
Man the video is very good with how to do it but the camera man is HORRIBLE. It took everything I had to finish the video haha. But good work!
Hey your in Texas right?can you help me with my transmission?
Rodney Plummer II what's going on
Reckless Savage the transfer case broke off the overdrive housing so I took it to A Plus transmissions in Austin and they said the transfer case was broke ...well I don't,know much about transmission but I knew for sure the transfer case wasn't broke so,I got it home disassembled the transfer case and,nothing was wrong well maybe some scaring on the input shaft...anyway I just need a transmission rebuild
2001 2500 4x4 automatic swb 100 percent stock thank you can help a loyal viewer ?maybe even give you some content for your channel
Rodney Plummer II honestly I am not much on trasmissions , but I've seen the chain inside t tcase housing break them off or your driveshaft carrier bearing being out
Rodney Plummer II being in Austin or close, I may be able to help a little.
Reckless Savage where are you located ?
my cousin says in this video about kinking off the hoses to keep air out of the system, well you can but you dont really get air in the system as long as you add fluid after reconnecting the hoses and pump.start the vehicle and the air should circulate out if you leave the cap off
Hey Reckless Savage, I'm trying to reinstall the vacuum pump/power steering assembly but I'm having trouble with the stud/bolt for the bracket going back into the assembly. Any tips?
sorry it took so long to get back to you I was on mobile when I seen your message, honestly I leave the mounting one attached to Motor , and remove the 15 mm nut they are very small torque ratio, I had the same issue as you at first and I had all kinds of stuff mis aligned but ive done this 20 times now
Hello, i forgot to mention, i don't let my fluids just FALL ON THE GROUND i have a pan down there and i did catch all the fluid everytime i did this procedure ! thanks..
Yo, what problem were you having in order to replace your Vacuum Pump?
I’ve swapped out the Steering box, Hydroboost, lines, pump but Not the Vacuum Pump and I have Zero Power steering at a stand still or when trying to back up my trailer.... I am going to swap out the Vacuum pump and hope that fixes my issue.
Let me know your thoughts Savage, thanks!
@@iab32 hey man sorry i didnt see your comment until now , honestly man the vacuum pump was probably your issue
Hi, excuse me to disturb you, I have a question about the hole thread on the middle of gear of the vacuum pump, is it normal, or is there a bolt ? it's strange this hole on the middle . I need to change mine, I hope it take less of 2 hours . thank you for your answer and for this excellent video !
@@pelvismc the thread is for pulling the gear don’t worry about it, perfectly normal
@@RecklessSavage ok thank you, it seems not very difficult to do .. it s little long . Thank you very much for your great help
Great video, man! No BS. I was able to find a N.O.S power steering and vacuum pump assembly for a good price. I am getting ready to swap soon and rebuild the original pumps. Any tips for install and bleeding air?
Tony Thies bleeding the air should t be to big a deal if you clamp lines I need to put a gear box
I just used what I had man
Why are u removing it for the 5th time, do it rite the 1st time brother, great video cross eyed savage.
Because obviously it didn’t work trying to crappy seals from autozone so I bought a Gould’s , I actually just replaced the seal again , with Gould’s and it isn’t leaking , autozone seal will leak every time
@@RecklessSavage great vids, keep them coming, everyone has different experiences, and all the info helps