I bought one of these in 2011. I just started using it again. This is great to get rid of that vibration. Funny watching this; same DP, same steel straight edge and same compressor in the background. You mentioned leveling/squaring the table at the beginning. I'll check your other videos for that. Having the bit get stuck and spin in the chuck when cutting steel, I assume. That could be an issue with the bit not being sharp and/or not being square when it breaks thru the back side of the piece. Could also be a speed issue with respect to the type of bit and/or the material. Having a bench grinder is handy for keeping bits sharp and properly profiled as they can get dull and there's no place for the chips to go behind the cutting edge. Thanks for posting.
Your final setup is nice. I'm having grief at the moment with an old press I have restored and having had to replace the motor and motor pulley the trouble I am finding with common regularity is that the pulley's do NOT want to move or loosen easily even though they are meant to be a slight interference fit with the keyway.... not a press fit. On Vibration: V belts are horrible for developing "memory" which will be semi permanent bends in the belts due to sitting too long on the pulleys under tension. It is of value to release tension when not using the drill and to quite routinely operate the drill or rotate the chuck a few turns to move the belts.
To stabilize my drill press motor, i used a turnbuckle to link two wires together; one running from the back of my motor, and one coming up from the floor plate. It seems to woork well, but you have to take care not to judge tension on the motor by the tension of the wires, especially when 18ga is thicker than it needs to be for this application.
Wow man, this video is the “Bomb”. I have the exact same drill press. I’m going to tune it up tonight. I bought it used from an angry, soon to be ex wife. It has slipping belts and the quill spring return is set to high. It’s an adequate drill press but the Chuck is a real POS. THANKS,
Helpful series, filmed well and decent sound. I just got one of these as an open box floor model here in Canada, missing an arbor and chuck unfortunately. Porter Cable doesn't service outside of the US.
Does tightening the spindle pulley nut not push it down further onto the tapered shaft? A gear or bearing puller is about $15 on Amazon and well worth the cost. Making the spindle pulley shaft concentric with the spindle and co-planar with the others I have looked to do by loosening the grub screws that hold the bearings and top shaft in place when I run the drill it should move to a neutral position I hope.
My 13" swing Taiwan generic drill press: The quill end attaches to the pulley via a tappered shaft, so all those tap tap adjustments won't do anything to raise or lower the pulley.
The motor belt tensioning lever has come apart leaving me to have to tension the belt with a wooden wedge. In order to remove the tin pulley housing to access the tensioning lever I need to remove the quill pulley. Is it your understanding that the front pulley is just a friction fit, that it should pull off with a puller bearing against the top surface of the threaded tubular shaft the quill rides up and down through? Thanks.
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I bought one of these in 2011. I just started using it again. This is great to get rid of that vibration.
Funny watching this; same DP, same steel straight edge and same compressor in the background.
You mentioned leveling/squaring the table at the beginning. I'll check your other videos for that.
Having the bit get stuck and spin in the chuck when cutting steel, I assume. That could be an issue with the bit not being sharp and/or not being square when it breaks thru the back side of the piece. Could also be a speed issue with respect to the type of bit and/or the material. Having a bench grinder is handy for keeping bits sharp and properly profiled as they can get dull and there's no place for the chips to go behind the cutting edge.
Thanks for posting.
Your final setup is nice.
I'm having grief at the moment with an old press I have restored and having had to replace the motor and motor pulley the trouble I am finding with common regularity is that the pulley's do NOT want to move or loosen easily even though they are meant to be a slight interference fit with the keyway.... not a press fit.
On Vibration:
V belts are horrible for developing "memory" which will be semi permanent bends in the belts due to sitting too long on the pulleys under tension.
It is of value to release tension when not using the drill and to quite routinely operate the drill or rotate the chuck a few turns to move the belts.
Thanks for the video - needed to adjust tension on a drill press at work.
To stabilize my drill press motor, i used a turnbuckle to link two wires together; one running from the back of my motor, and one coming up from the floor plate. It seems to woork well, but you have to take care not to judge tension on the motor by the tension of the wires, especially when 18ga is thicker than it needs to be for this application.
Wow man, this video is the “Bomb”. I have the exact same drill press. I’m going to tune it up tonight. I bought it used from an angry, soon to be ex wife. It has slipping belts and the quill spring return is set to high. It’s an adequate drill press but the Chuck is a real POS. THANKS,
Helpful series, filmed well and decent sound. I just got one of these as an open box floor model here in Canada, missing an arbor and chuck unfortunately. Porter Cable doesn't service outside of the US.
Does tightening the spindle pulley nut not push it down further onto the tapered shaft?
A gear or bearing puller is about $15 on Amazon and well worth the cost.
Making the spindle pulley shaft concentric with the spindle and co-planar with the others I have looked to do by loosening the grub screws that hold the bearings and top shaft in place when I run the drill it should move to a neutral position I hope.
That made more of a difference than I thought it would. Thanks.
I have this exact drill press, so this series is awesome. I have a question. How friggin' tall are you? you dwarf that press!
How do you keep the drill bit from slipping? My chunk is tight.
Thanks that helped a lot. Best video on here for drill press set up by far.
My 13" swing Taiwan generic drill press: The quill end attaches to the pulley via a tappered shaft, so all those tap tap adjustments won't do anything to raise or lower the pulley.
Will the pulley unwind all the way off?
Is it just the 15 to 17 but that holds tear pulley on?
very informative .thanks you
You had no problem with the top of the quill to pulley slop???
The motor belt tensioning lever has come apart leaving me to have to tension the belt with a wooden wedge. In order to remove the tin pulley housing to access the tensioning lever I need to remove the quill pulley. Is it your understanding that the front pulley is just a friction fit, that it should pull off with a puller bearing against the top surface of the threaded tubular shaft the quill rides up and down through? Thanks.
Unfortunately I can't answer that
Front pulley sits on a taper. 3 jaw puller should remove it.
very informative..its weird u dont get much view on this video..thnx man
Do you remember what size belts
what are your belt specs?m 26 and..?
Use a link belt😊
Video interessante ma se sono tutti in lingua tedesca noi nonriusciamo a capire nulla. Traduzioni anche in italiano. Grazie
This is a complete waste of time