To separate the chuck from the taper simply use a bolt and a nut.Hold the nut inside the chuck jaws and start tighten the bolt to push against the taper.After a couple of turns the taper should be removed quiet and easy.
thank you! the secret key was the White Lithium Grease spray. you could hammer on it all day long and it wouldn;t separate the "baked" pieces without it.
Sir, I enjoyed viewing the logical way you approached the situation removing the seized chuck and taller. As you were doing the task in the video I was reviewing how I would approach the problem. It is the most logical approach. By retracting the jaw of the chuck no harm will be done while hitting the chuck through the wooden block. Thank you for your informational and intelligent approach.
thank you! well I tried less "violent" approaches first, but the broken tooth chuck was semi welded to the tapper because of the humidity induced internal rust using wooden block is OK. but the key to separate the chuck from the tapper was the White Lithium /Grease spray, which managed to penetrate micro gaps between the 2 stuck pieces.
Thank you very much. The chuck fell out yesterday. Tried it today and so far works okay. I have you as a backup for the next time. I really like your idea of keeping tools that come with the machine close by. Have to start practicing that. Great Stuff.
yes I learned the habit of keeping the machine spare parts / related tools right next to it at all times, because before that I was spending priceless time in my store room looking for stuff. and I was always finding stuff that I couldn't find when I needed it earlier, but not the thing that I need now. some machines such as bandsaw have cabinets where you can keep various blades, miter gauge, switch mag jigs and so on. the table saw drawer / cabinet can store replacement blades, jigs etc..
Woodworker plays machinist. The "white lithium grease" is an odd choice. One of the many penetrating oils would be better. Also, tapers are assembled dry. If you're worried about corrosion, a very thin film of LPS3 or Fluid Film is sufficient. To make a thin film, apply a little and try to wipe it dry with a cloth or paper towel. There's a lot of anxiety about the chuck coming off but it's not warranted. One tap is sufficient. Also, if you extend the quill down farther, there might be a slot in the side for that wedge. The wedge bears against the tang so you can remove the chuck at will. You may not have any reason to do so but it's handy in the machine shop. Also, tightening the chuck from multiple locations does not center the bit any better than using 1. You may get it slightly tighter but even that is unlikely.
I'm not playing a machinist. It was my 1st time ever to try to find some working solution to this problem, and eventually I managed to separate the semi welded rusted parts. I used what I had on hand. What matters is, I got it done
I really appreciate this video. Thank you! I'm also very grateful for you showing how that bit, with its varying dimensions, chipped the old chuck. It reminds me to be far more careful with such bits.
yes I learned through my mistake, and I'm happy to share it so that you and others won't be forced to replace the chuck. the carbide teeth are very brittle, and as I was tightening the chuck on the shaft with the weld between the cutter and the shank, the carbide element easily broke. I live in tropics, and everything rusts very fast. the taper and the chuck "baked" together from the 90% humidity, and it was really hard to separate them. I was close to giving up and buying the chuck WITH the taper set. I bought just the chuck to save few bucks.
white lithium grease spray is the key. it penetrates the stuck parts just go it and you will see it is really not as scary as replacing the clutch in the 4 wheel drive
yes the white lithium grease successfully unbaked the parts after trying and failing with so many other methods now I use this spray all the time for many other applications, including my Trek bicycle maintenance. it works like a charm
You welcome. It's a relatively simple thing but sometimes we need to see it, to be brave enough to do it ourselves. Just like I wouldn't dare changing the battery in my laptop before someone showed how
as you could see, the problem was not to remove the chuck from the drill press, the problem was to separate the chuck from the taper because they semi welded to each other because of the tropical climate humidity and rust
@@TigerCarpenter the taper is called the arbor I understand you didn’t want to remove the arbor and chuck assembly… but to properly separate the chuck from the arbor taper you use a wedge or two stacked.
@@TigerCarpenter hit it with a heat gun or propane torch it will loosen and if too much space use two wedges stacked opposite and use 2 hammers to tap the opposite flat ends
I see that you have taken great care protecting the old part with bubble wrap through out the video until you get to the most important part, the removale of the taper from the chuck, when the taper hits the concrete floor with no protection. Just sayin.
The bubble wrap was to protect my wooden workbench jaws, not the chuck, which was cracked and sentenced for scrapyard Yes I didn't want to damage the tapered surface to allow it to work as designed. It took me many hours of fighting with the semi welded parts trying to separate them. I bought a new set of chuck and taper anyway The final attempt with white lithium grease worked and just a little tap with hammer was required The taper dropped from 5 centimetres on the non tapered tip before it rolled on the floor. The tapered surface didn't even get scratches from that fall
@@TigerCarpenter If you extend the drill spindle(down), there should be a slot, and use a morse taper drift to remove the chuck/arbor.. google "morse taper drift''.. Cheers....
@@TigerCarpenter Read up up on morse tapers/jacob tapers, on how they work/hold.. There several different of tapers as well, they actually lock together, they have been used in engineering for over a hundred years.... The Morse Taper was invented in 1864 by Stephen A. Morse....it's not that they were rusted together, it is the angle of the taper that locks them together..
@@bigtrev8xl I didn't want to remove the taper, I was in fact hoping the taper would stay in the drill press, so that I can just swap the broken chuck with the new one. that's why I didn't use the wedge that helps with removing the taper. unfortunately the chuck didn't drop and the chuck+taper dropped. then it took me many various methods to separate them because they were baked together (all mechanical ways failed). I used gear bearing pulling jaws, which have tremendous force, as you would notice while replacing your car's clutch. even that force wasn't sufficient to isolate the taper from the chuck, because the rust semi-welded them into one piece. the point of this video is that white lithium grease spray managed to penetrate the "weld" and the taper dropped out of the chuck with the gravity force only. PS and you keep trying to convince me that the taper wasn't baked together with the chuck, and lecture me on the Morse tapers. I wasn't born yesterday buddy, and I know what I'm saying.
@@TigerCarpenter You sir are something else LOL When putting an instructional video up, at least get it right, and hitting a chuck with hammers, is not the way to do it, as I explained to you before, lithium grease will not break a taper. please educate yourself, look on youtube
@@bigtrev8xl for 5 decades I've watched many people removing the chuck only (not the taper) using the wooden block and hammer. when you use the wedge, you will remove the taper together with the chuck, and that was exactly NOT my intention, as I was trying to swap JUST THE CHUCK. I'm not sure what you are trying to demonstrate here. 1. th-cam.com/video/fZwx_773tbo/w-d-xo.html I tried the wedge to remove JUST THE CHUCK but because it was rusty and baked together, it failed 2. th-cam.com/video/xHVkb1JU1Ac/w-d-xo.html Everyone I know uses wooden block to remove JUST THE CHUCK, especially when it is stubborn / baked to the taper. PS and the white lithium grease did the trick, as shown in the video, the taper fell off the chuck with a push of a finger.
Looks are often deceiving. You sound like an unhappy individual. I can see many ugly people every day and nobody needs to tell them that. Let them be ugly and happy I don't have a business providing drill press repairs. I'm a hobbyist woodworker, and when my drill press chuck got broken, I tried many things, and finally I managed to fix it. that's how people gain experience, by trying and learning new skills. using this approach, I actually self learned a lot of things, not just in woodworking but in all walks of life. making negative comments is definitely not a skill that impresses me. go back to playing computer games grumpy smurf.
@@biginoob312 you didn't hurt me at all. My video helped many people and they were happy and grateful someone put some effort to make a video. Your comment doesn't bring anything useful to the table. Maybe one day you will learn how not to push people away from you. And if you have a better solution to fix the drill press chuck, please share the link to your video. We are always happy to learn something new. It feels like you came to me and said you were hungry, so I gave you some food, and then you said the food wasn't that great. That's why from now on we'll call you Grumpy Smurf
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To separate the chuck from the taper simply use a bolt and a nut.Hold the nut inside the chuck jaws and start tighten the bolt to push against the taper.After a couple of turns the taper should be removed quiet and easy.
The carbide jaws were fractured and that's the reason to replace the chuck.
I'll try your trick on the new chuck to see how it works
It must be possible to do that in the first place to remove the chuck.
just use puller remover or bearing remover😂
Just got a used drill press that needs a little work. This video is invaluable and immensely helpful. Thank you!
thank you!
the secret key was the White Lithium Grease spray. you could hammer on it all day long and it wouldn;t separate the "baked" pieces without it.
Sir,
I enjoyed viewing the logical way you approached the situation removing the seized chuck and taller. As you were doing the task in the video I was reviewing how I would approach the problem. It is the most logical approach. By retracting the jaw of the chuck no harm will be done while hitting the chuck through the wooden block.
Thank you for your informational and intelligent approach.
thank you! well I tried less "violent" approaches first, but the broken tooth chuck was semi welded to the tapper because of the humidity induced internal rust
using wooden block is OK. but the key to separate the chuck from the tapper was the White Lithium /Grease spray, which managed to penetrate micro gaps between the 2 stuck pieces.
Looked like a stubborn chuck. I now feel like knocking my one out to inspect and clean. Cheers
Thank you very much. The chuck fell out yesterday. Tried it today and so far works okay. I have you as a backup for the next time. I really like your idea of keeping tools that come with the machine close by. Have to start practicing that.
Great Stuff.
yes I learned the habit of keeping the machine spare parts / related tools right next to it at all times, because before that I was spending priceless time in my store room looking for stuff. and I was always finding stuff that I couldn't find when I needed it earlier, but not the thing that I need now.
some machines such as bandsaw have cabinets where you can keep various blades, miter gauge, switch mag jigs and so on. the table saw drawer / cabinet can store replacement blades, jigs etc..
Woodworker plays machinist. The "white lithium grease" is an odd choice. One of the many penetrating oils would be better. Also, tapers are assembled dry. If you're worried about corrosion, a very thin film of LPS3 or Fluid Film is sufficient. To make a thin film, apply a little and try to wipe it dry with a cloth or paper towel. There's a lot of anxiety about the chuck coming off but it's not warranted. One tap is sufficient. Also, if you extend the quill down farther, there might be a slot in the side for that wedge. The wedge bears against the tang so you can remove the chuck at will. You may not have any reason to do so but it's handy in the machine shop. Also, tightening the chuck from multiple locations does not center the bit any better than using 1. You may get it slightly tighter but even that is unlikely.
I'm not playing a machinist. It was my 1st time ever to try to find some working solution to this problem, and eventually I managed to separate the semi welded rusted parts.
I used what I had on hand.
What matters is, I got it done
I really appreciate this video. Thank you!
I'm also very grateful for you showing how that bit, with its varying dimensions,
chipped the old chuck. It reminds me to be far more careful with such bits.
yes I learned through my mistake, and I'm happy to share it so that you and others won't be forced to replace the chuck. the carbide teeth are very brittle, and as I was tightening the chuck on the shaft with the weld between the cutter and the shank, the carbide element easily broke.
I live in tropics, and everything rusts very fast. the taper and the chuck "baked" together from the 90% humidity, and it was really hard to separate them. I was close to giving up and buying the chuck WITH the taper set. I bought just the chuck to save few bucks.
Thanks, I was a little afraid to remove my chuck. While it didn’t look easy, it looks like something I can do.
white lithium grease spray is the key. it penetrates the stuck parts
just go it and you will see it is really not as scary as replacing the clutch in the 4 wheel drive
I have a chuck like this but it's tight, Iwill do like the video.
Done fixing my drill press chuck today.Thanks a lot for this video.
it feels good to be able to help. I was hesitating to even record it, as I thought it was trivial
thank you for your feedback!
Simply Thanks. Now all is clear to me.
Oh so white lithium grease is the secret!
Thanks for sharing your experience
yes the white lithium grease successfully unbaked the parts after trying and failing with so many other methods
now I use this spray all the time for many other applications, including my Trek bicycle maintenance. it works like a charm
A clamp on each end of those blocks would have helped immensely.
Put a magnet on side of drill press to hold the chuck key so it’s always available.
The machine manufacturer could have given external JT6 taper so that the chuck could have been easily fixed
Yup. Unfortunately the world is far from perfect. We need to find working solutions
A great video 😊 👍
Thank you! It's the opposite of masterpiece but I hope it's useful for people struggling with the same issue
Thank you for sharing.👍👀
You welcome. It's a relatively simple thing but sometimes we need to see it, to be brave enough to do it ourselves. Just like I wouldn't dare changing the battery in my laptop before someone showed how
Use two wedges stacked opposite and hit with two hammers from the opposite sides
as you could see, the problem was not to remove the chuck from the drill press, the problem was to separate the chuck from the taper because they semi welded to each other because of the tropical climate humidity and rust
@@TigerCarpenter the taper is called the arbor I understand you didn’t want to remove the arbor and chuck assembly… but to properly separate the chuck from the arbor taper you use a wedge or two stacked.
anyway I did try using the wedge but everything was too tight due to the rust build up from tropical weather
@@TigerCarpenter hit it with a heat gun or propane torch it will loosen and if too much space use two wedges stacked opposite and use 2 hammers to tap the opposite flat ends
cool !!!
First lean and then practice and for the Last continente learning.
Life is a journey. We learn something new every day, and it's good to share the experience.
I'm not claiming my solution is the best but it worked
WHY NOT USE A PICKLE FORK TO GET IT OUT?
The parts were semi welded. That's why the white lithium grease was the key to separate them.
I see that you have taken great care protecting the old part with bubble wrap through out the video until you get to the most important part, the removale of the taper from the chuck, when the taper hits the concrete floor with no protection. Just sayin.
The bubble wrap was to protect my wooden workbench jaws, not the chuck, which was cracked and sentenced for scrapyard
Yes I didn't want to damage the tapered surface to allow it to work as designed.
It took me many hours of fighting with the semi welded parts trying to separate them. I bought a new set of chuck and taper anyway
The final attempt with white lithium grease worked and just a little tap with hammer was required
The taper dropped from 5 centimetres on the non tapered tip before it rolled on the floor. The tapered surface didn't even get scratches from that fall
Jeez man clamp the wooden blocks together!
My teeth don’t want to drop down. I think I will try to soak it , then oil it.
White lithium grease spray is your friend
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
thanks!
Lordy😂😂😂😂use a hammer and a metal gice not wood vice,your old chuck wont break and is already damaged,lol😂😂😂😂
😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
Remind me, to not let you change one of my chucks LOL
@@TigerCarpenter If you extend the drill spindle(down), there should be a slot, and use a morse taper drift to remove the chuck/arbor.. google "morse taper drift''.. Cheers....
@@TigerCarpenter Read up up on morse tapers/jacob tapers, on how they work/hold..
There several different of tapers as well, they actually lock together, they have been used in engineering for over a hundred years.... The Morse Taper was invented in 1864 by Stephen A. Morse....it's not that they were rusted together, it is the angle of the taper that locks them together..
@@bigtrev8xl I didn't want to remove the taper, I was in fact hoping the taper would stay in the drill press, so that I can just swap the broken chuck with the new one. that's why I didn't use the wedge that helps with removing the taper.
unfortunately the chuck didn't drop and the chuck+taper dropped. then it took me many various methods to separate them because they were baked together (all mechanical ways failed). I used gear bearing pulling jaws, which have tremendous force, as you would notice while replacing your car's clutch. even that force wasn't sufficient to isolate the taper from the chuck, because the rust semi-welded them into one piece.
the point of this video is that white lithium grease spray managed to penetrate the "weld" and the taper dropped out of the chuck with the gravity force only.
PS
and you keep trying to convince me that the taper wasn't baked together with the chuck, and lecture me on the Morse tapers. I wasn't born yesterday buddy, and I know what I'm saying.
@@TigerCarpenter You sir are something else LOL
When putting an instructional video up, at least get it right, and hitting a chuck with hammers, is not the way to do it, as I explained to you before, lithium grease will not break a taper. please educate yourself, look on youtube
@@bigtrev8xl for 5 decades I've watched many people removing the chuck only (not the taper) using the wooden block and hammer. when you use the wedge, you will remove the taper together with the chuck, and that was exactly NOT my intention, as I was trying to swap JUST THE CHUCK.
I'm not sure what you are trying to demonstrate here.
1. th-cam.com/video/fZwx_773tbo/w-d-xo.html
I tried the wedge to remove JUST THE CHUCK but because it was rusty and baked together, it failed
2. th-cam.com/video/xHVkb1JU1Ac/w-d-xo.html
Everyone I know uses wooden block to remove JUST THE CHUCK, especially when it is stubborn / baked to the taper.
PS
and the white lithium grease did the trick, as shown in the video, the taper fell off the chuck with a push of a finger.
You look inexperienced
Looks are often deceiving. You sound like an unhappy individual.
I can see many ugly people every day and nobody needs to tell them that. Let them be ugly and happy
I don't have a business providing drill press repairs. I'm a hobbyist woodworker, and when my drill press chuck got broken, I tried many things, and finally I managed to fix it.
that's how people gain experience, by trying and learning new skills. using this approach, I actually self learned a lot of things, not just in woodworking but in all walks of life.
making negative comments is definitely not a skill that impresses me. go back to playing computer games grumpy smurf.
I do sorry for hurting you. Actually I was watching your video to learn how to change Chuck. I have same drill bench. Good luck 😃
@@biginoob312 you didn't hurt me at all.
My video helped many people and they were happy and grateful someone put some effort to make a video.
Your comment doesn't bring anything useful to the table.
Maybe one day you will learn how not to push people away from you.
And if you have a better solution to fix the drill press chuck, please share the link to your video. We are always happy to learn something new.
It feels like you came to me and said you were hungry, so I gave you some food, and then you said the food wasn't that great. That's why from now on we'll call you Grumpy Smurf