Single Bevel Broadhead Advantages
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Discussion around different bevel angles and leverage from the bevel itself. These are the two most overlooked facts about single bevel broadheads.
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Ron at stay sharp shows how to make a secondary bevel to increase strength check it out
Wood workers some times do this to wood chisels. It's called unicorning. I've tried it on some cheap chisels and it does make a huge difference in the durability of the edge.
I started shooting single bevel 125 grain Cutthroats two years ago and will probably never use anything other than single bevels going forward. Two whitetails in two years and neither ran more than 80 yards before crashing. The internal damage was like no other broadhead I had ever seen and both were pass throughs. The blood trails have been very minimal but you don't need blood trails when you watch them crash.
Blood trails are unpredictable
80 yards is easy.
@@Chriskelly19067
Sharp and efficient arrow flight
That’s the mixture
Second Comment!
Here we go archers! The Ranch Fairy 🧚♂️ is educating us yet again which is helpful as this makes learning far les expensive and game animals less wounded and more dead ☠️!🏹🐗☠️
Been shooting these heads (single bevel) for four years now. I can say that the steeper angles (40 degrees) break bone with less energy than the the less steep angles (20 degrees). My theory is that the steeper angles rotate more, and coupled with appropriate FOC and point weight take less energy away from the arrow/point as it travels through flesh. Only 13 animals into observation, but from what I've seen the steeper angles perform better when bone is encountered. It's not what I would have expected, but it's hard to argue with my observations. Lots to learn here. I'll continue to fling different heads at animals, but I think I'm on the right path. Also I have not seen Ashby's 3 to 1 head angle be the way for me. Shorter heads are way more durable.
Shooting 225 grain Iron Will right hand bevel now. Hope to get a few 300 grain gen2 Toughheads real soon 🏹
Best of both worlds would be an Ashby-single-beveled-Flapper ;)
Just found your channel the other day and I’m trying to soak in as much info as possible.
I just started hunting last year and took my first deer ever on Christmas Eve, a young 8 point. But this will be my first ever bow season coming up in a month. I’ve been shooting targets all summer and wanted to know what broadhead you would recommend?
I’m using a Mathews Solo Cam, 60lb, 29inch draw length.
My friend is taking me to Illinois in October, they have 300 acres up there and he said we more than likely will see a monster or two. I just want to make sure I have the right setup to take one down. I know my question is a broad one, but any info will be helpful.
Do yourself a favor and watch his series on arrow tuning (extremely important!!). Get yourself familiar with that first and then look into his 3 blade over at Sirius Archery. Expensive yes but easy to sharpen/ reuse over and over again. Also check out magnus broadheads.
Your set up is fine with any broadhead. I reccomend a fixed blade broadhead. Make sure they fly well (tuned) good luck.
Adam
Email me at troy@ranchfairy.com
I will give you the fast track videos to tune and setup for monsters.
Just say “I’m the guy on you tube with the Mathews 60#/29” draw” so I remember
I get 1,000 messages a month right now!
P.S. you want to get some Magnus black hornet 4 blade 125 broadheads now - the “ser razor” model. We’ll build around that
Your in good hands buddy hope you get a giant
Made the switch last seasone! After years of bouncing off shoulders and having track while red/green colorblind, I shot twice tagged two deer and didn't have to walk more than 80 yards! Huge difference.
Hey Troy. I have something interesting to bring up. I do a lot of work sharpening Japanese single-bevel kitchen knives. Some of these blade designs are designed to - you guessed it - split bone, retain the structural integrity of the blade, and remain sharp after repeated use. I really think there is something to this that is completely missing from the broadhead world. How can we talk directly about this?
Email
Troy@ranchfairy.com
"10. Type of Edge Bevel
The type of edge bevel comes in at number ten, BUT ON SHOTS IMPACTING BONE THE TYPE OF EDGE BEVEL JUMPS WELL FORWARD [higher] ON THE LIST OF IMPORTANT FACTORS; IMMEDIATELY BEHIND MASS-WEIGHT ABOVE THE HEAVY BONE THRESHOLD [which moves forward/higher on the list of important factors from number 12 to number 2 or 3, when shots impact heavy bone]."
"12. Arrow-Mass Above the Heavy Bone Threshold
Arrow-mass above the Heavy Bone Threshold is placed this low because it has little significance on shots impacting only soft tissues. ON A HEAVY BONE IMPACT THIS FACTOR WILL JUMP TO VERY NEAR THE HEAD OF ALL FACTORS; EXCEPTING ONLY STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY AND, PERHAPS, QUALITY OF ARROW FLIGHT (See 2005 Update, Part 6)."
Blade Edge Finish, (which is number 7 when bone is NOT impacted), moves down the list when heavy bone is impacted to number 9 most important penetration factor.
Great video and thanks for the information as always. I appreciate your time.
I'm trying out 200 grain vpa broadheads this year. The 17th can't come fast enough
Troy, can I ask a couple of tangential questions?
I learned about the Ashby reports when they were published in Traditional Bowhunter Magazine years ago. At the time doctor Ashby said the universal screw in arrow system, where you have the threaded stem and the insert, is one of the weak spots where you get a lot of system break down on impacts. I remember seeing pictures of lots of heads with bent and broken stems. Has that just gone away with improvement in the steel on the heads, and things like the heavy brass inserts, and higher FOC?
2nd I am a low budget bow hunter. I have a couple of "trophy kids" in wheelchairs. (I also work in healthcare by the way and really appreciate your insights into physiology.) I simply cannot buy broadheads at $20.00 each, no matter how re-usable they are. I'm running through my supply of Ace Express 175 grain heads, but those weigh much less, once I grind them down to single bevels. Not gonna give me 20% FOC on woodies. My improvisations so far are "Meh", aside from tail-tapereing.
What's the closest thing to a thick, high MA, monolithic or otherwise super tough, + 200 grain, single bevel broadhead I can get on a budget? I'm about to start making my own out of sidewalk edger blades........even Grizzlies are pretty pricey these days.
I was gonna say grizzly because you get six - or at least used to!
Not really a low cost option now
@@RanchFairy I'll find a way to stock up on Grizzly's then. Even they are up to $12.00/pop.
Yer a good dude, thanks...
Dr Ed's study is an incredible collection of data.
Yay though I shoot through the valley of flappers and twizzler sticks I will fear no shoulder blades, for thy ranch fairy is with me. Thy bow and thy 150 grain magnus stinger buzzcut on a 200 grain insert comfort me. Thy ranch fairy prepares animal before me in the presence of mine speed bow and 500 spine enemies. Thy ranch fairy anointest my arrow with blood; my blood trailing running only 40 yard over. Amen
Your channel is awesome, I bought the 344 guide from stay sharp and bought some montecs and after a couple hours got a very sharp razor polished edge. G5 montec and magnus stinger are my favorite 2 broadheads
I appreciate what you offer, but I disagree with so much of the premise of the single bevel. Well, maybe it’s not so much that, but the dogma behind the single bevel claims.
Maybe we can do a TH-cam live discussion. Hopefully you can dispel my misgivings. I want to believe it’s true, but my minds logic suggests otherwise
Let’s do it. Troy@ranchfairy.com - we can book it and start the ball rolling.
You know who you should talk to
Ed Ashby. He studied it
Pre carbon arrows
27 years
During the study carbon (and more FOC) came along
And he broke or destroyed literally thousands of broadheads
Most peoples main issue with this is it’s a 12 factor system. Not one thing. So yes and no. There are reasons to shoot a single bevel I can discuss along with physiology (cut quality) behind the edge bevel. But - they really shine when you run as many factors as you can PLUS a single bevel
So - I’m in if you want to do this - it would be great
I have utility tool that has a blade with single bevel. I hate it cause it doesn’t cut straight and does pressure the meat on opposite side. Maybe you have something there in that pressure will be deflected from bone. Still, I like double sharp bevs.
That makes sense that you want it to go slow. It's not a drill bit. It's not gonna spin the bone and then pop out the other side. Good stuff
Innovative Outdoorsman addresses this well with the single bevel broadhead. Main bevel is lower/wider for torque and cutting but a very narrow band of a bit steeper bevel right along the edge for strength and to prevent rolling.
Man thanks fore what you are doing I have been bow hunting for three years now and had trouble for the first two years till I found your videos the past year I slayed them thanks to you and everybody around me asking for advice and I tell them to watch you .man thanks I have so much fun and live for bow hunting 🙌😀
This was some great info about the bevel angles👌
I have not tried it (yet) but wonder how a 2 bevel single bevel would work? Such as 20 degree and then 40 degree at the very edge?
I was just wondering the same thing. Like some knives have.
No one i know polishes the head blades. Understandable, it is a pain in the ass to do on a blade that small. It's not a knife.
But. Few people other that bladesmiths ( knives, swords etc...) and pro sharpeners know that its actually important for edge retention. You should look for electron microscope photos of an blade edge, than it becomes obvious why polishing is important. It smooths out the iregularities in edge geometry, and those irregularities are where edge ware ocurs first.
P.s. you mentioned " steel quality". I don't look to nit pick, but it is not nearly as important as heat treatment is. Nowdays, most steel is decent, consistent material. Good enough. Heat treatment makes mist of the difference. You will see inferior base material ( steel), only in cheapest knock of blades on, for example, amazon. Other than those, it is not the material, it's shitty craftsmanship/ production.
I am continuously gaining an understanding of steel. ITS AMAZING how much detail there is in the heat treat. One single bevel prototype we tested the heat treat was off on "premium" steel. You're right. One set of heads did fine.
The other showed some chatter when we were intentionally abusing it to see where the fail point was.
The fail was heat treat. I am now smarter because of you and that is Hard to Do!!! Thanks!
Thanks for the great content. Hopefully, your team is trying to determine the best edge angle compromise between a good single-bevel lever arm (for rotation), edge sharpness, and edge durability. It will be fascinating to see the results. Thanks again for all the effort your team puts into this debate.
I would THINK, and I am not scientist, but the make of the metal and it's hardness would have an impact on the rotation damage. All things being equal. The tougher metal has less flex in it and therefore damages more,cuts more. Troy seemed to think 20-30 degrees. I know some people who like more, and I personally like inbetween, 25 degrees is more than enough for North American animals. I don't hunt Africa,thats a different ball game certainly.
For both comments.
Of course! Personally thinking is just anecdotal.
The trick is the single bevel edge is only one sided compare to a double bevel and requires PROPER TEMPER. That is a whole can of worms we are constantly improving.
What about twist? You gotta match fletch helical twist to broadhead. Me no understand yet bein new to this crap.
If shooting single bevel
Match helical and bevel
Just shot the biggest deer of my life Sunday evening. He was at 20 yards quartering to me. I shot right in front of the front shoulder but must have hit the shoulder because I can’t find him and hes not bleeding much. Arrow is 700 grains with tuffhead 300 grain broadhead out of a 55# longbow. No obstructions clear shot at 20 yards. Heard a loud thud, buck mule kicked, ran about 30 yards and stopped to look back at me. Tracked him for .25 mile with no luck. Arrow and broadhead unfortunately were not up to par in my opinion. Thoughts?
I just switched to Strickland helix 125 single bevel,great broadhead shot a buck this season at 32 yards roughly,it flinched I thought I missed,it walked 15 feet and fell over. Blew through his heart. I won’t use anything else now. Victory Rip Gamer ethics inserts 500 grains total.
I have u a question. I shoot a pse x force ss at 60lb and 28.5 inch draw. What length arrow do I need. Thanks
You need 300 spine arrow
100 grain insert
125 grain point / broadhead and watch this on length
th-cam.com/video/Edkvee0gskg/w-d-xo.html
PS - ranch fairy store at Sirius archery for all your super awesome arrows!
I’m in Mississippi and has killed more deer than most have seen .. we got hogs too .. not them 140 pound Texas hogs .. all he says Is absolutely true ..
My analogy is .. yes a 577 nitro express will shoot through a train .. no argument.. it’s over kill for a flea bitten whitetail deer .. Back in 1995 I set my little brother up with a 500 spine carbon and a 85gr thunderhead .. he was 7 .. shooting 34# . Killed his first 7 deer with that set up .. no lost deer .. granted he was the
Cub state champ in our state .. he could shoot ..
between us we’ve got 22 hanging on the wall .. shooting typical stuff .. 400-450gr with flappers to 165 landshark heads ..
it’s absolutely not rocket science.. watch Waddells video on arrows ..
what do you think about a 3 blade fixed broadhead that is single bevel as well? such as the newly released Big Game 3 by Dead X Archery
If you read the Ashby studies, their testing shows that 3 blades (I think those in the testing were double bevel) tend to get stuck in bone more than any other type of head, for whatever reason. I don’t think making it single bevel would hurt, especially for soft tissue, but a 3 blade is not ideal for bone. Believe it or not, even 4, 5, and 6 blade heads are better for bone. I think it has to do with the geometry, a wedging effect.
The best for bone is a 2 blade by far, of course, but I see the value in cutting more tissue as well.
Ranch fairy very interesting video. Nicely explained. Did you film that lady shooting the Cape Buffalo.
Hi Ranch Fairy, I just watched the Vortex Nation Podcast Ep. 191 | Get FOC’d - with the Ranch Fairy, and I absolutely love the rooster T-shirt you were wearing. Would you mind to tell me where I can get one too?
thanks
JD
I'm looking at switching to single Beveled Broadheads! It's time to shoot adult arrows and Broadheads! Love your content Troy, keep it comming
Do you like Iron Will vented 100gr. Had a young deer at 25yrds 60lb V-3 28.5 draw, last yr. Crazy wound channel! Crazy blood. About 440gr arrow set up
If I didn't match the angle exactly when i sharpened will it mess with the rotation? broadheads are still sharp but I came in a little steep on the single bevel.
No
Sharp wins
Great stuff Troy!
I was once in the rabbit hole but now I’ve seen the light, lol - this IS the proven science and I’ve witnessed it firsthand 🍻
Any opinion on Kudupoints? Been using them for 2 seasons and like them but was wondering if you've seen them
I have been shooting Grizzlies and Kodiaks out of my recurve for years and will never shoot anything else after the results time after time.
If you’re just strictly shooting whitetail which broadhead would you use the magnus or the tuffhead 2.0
Oh, crap! I like single bevels because i have straight fletchings with my three point containment fixed arrow rest and the bevel gives an arrow a nice spin, but if the angle will be smaller there will be less rotation. Oh well, i guess i'll just have to shoot better!
Great info! Just listened to Iron Will Bill on Meateater Podcast and combined with his and your info I've learned so much!
Another very educational video about single bevel broadheads and how the single bevel works keep them coming east and west of Matagorda bay sow trout are there just saying.
Are they planning to upload any new videos on Ashby TH-cam channel? I haven't seen anything new in this year or so. Thanks!
I use a belt sander/sharpening system (like a worksharp). It gives a slight convex edge which is more durable.
How about a discussion on some of the 3 blade single bevel heads that are out there now. All the talk is about 2 blade single bevels but I don’t think anyone has covered a 3 blade single bevel head and it advantages or disadvantages.
I shoot ironwill single bevels and they're 40°. I've split a femur, cut off a shoulder ball socket and of course blow through scapulas like they are not even there. But that's all on whitetail. Now you got me thinking about my first elk hunt coming up this year. I know an elk ain't no cape Buffalo, but its still a pretty damn big critter
Hey Mike, I'm pretty sure Iron Will are 32 degree angle. Good luck on your elk hunt.
@@bullet225ho yep, they are. I checked right after I saw this
Excited to try my iron will 125 sb on whitetail Oct 1st in Michigan
Love learning this stuff… Thank you and keep it coming…😉👍
I know you’re a huge fan of heavyyy single bevels. Have you ever messed around with Kudu Point single bevels? They come in 100, 125, and 150. I had great success with the 150’s last year out of my compound, took 4 deer and half a dozen or so hogs with full pass through on all. Only tricky part was learning to sharpen a curved head. They are extremely durable and hunting sharp from the factory.
I wish I had a photographic memory to retain the vast amount of data that you share with us
Great info as usual. thanks for doing the testing I need to do but I don't have to spend the money !!! haha.
folks, there's no debate. Any sharp bevel will work. All of this twisting, torque theories are nonsense. You could shoot a sharp piece of glass, the quarry will never know the difference. I come from a simpler time - used bear broadheads. Worked fine then, do so now.
Well buddy, you're wrong and you're right.
If its a durable edge that penetrates and stays sharp and hits the vital organs....yes.
BUT you are completely wrong about "all this twisting nonsense". Single bevels are a torque based fact that require forward motion to create rotational force. I ask you to go find a single bevel knife or broadhead and see if you can MAKE IT cut straight on a piece of meat or cheese. On bone hits the amount of damage that can be accomplished (to keep any old edge that's sharp, durable, etc.) MOVING FORWARD to the kill zone is pretty incredible.
But alas, you have no experience in your comment.
@@RanchFairy I've hunted for years in Michigan's U.P. - bear, deer, small game. Simple bear broad heads worked fine on the end of cedar shafts. Ya don't need anything fancy.
I was seeing things in 1989 with a thunderhead 125 .. 😂😂😂
does anyone know of a good quiver for 3.5 inch long broadheads?
Even though I’m not doing the whole heavy arrow thing the single bevel thing or even watching the rest of this video. I’ll give you a like because I like you 👍🏻
I wish TH-cam would allow pics on comments.. 👀
Hey Ranch, great stuff as always. My question is about the bevel degree and tissue vs bone damage. With how you explained it in the video is it right to say you will "potentially" get more soft tissue damage with a high bevel degree due to the fastsr rotation but get "potentially" less bone damage/fracture?
You're never going to talk me out of my Magnus 😁. Yes, I've had a Tuffhead in my hand and they are amazing. But I will spend the extra $70 they are for 3 on those new Sirius Geminis... i just cooked up an arrow build on their calculator of 525 grains with 20% foc even at my 29.5 draw length... Oh boy. 👀
Damn, you short draw guys have such a big advantage when it comes to high foc arrow builds. 😞
@@casanovafrankenstein8875 he's probly a 29" draw. That ain't short man
@@mikeguy9668 29" is a short draw length, to me. It's all relative. Maybe the OP is a younger person?? My draw length was 29" before. I didn't stop growing after high school tho...
@@casanovafrankenstein8875 I'm 30.5, but the average is 28. Anything over that is considered long in the industry. I get that you may think it's short, but on the scale it's not
@@mikeguy9668 I understand you think 29 is a long draw length, but it just isn't. Cope. Hell, 30.5 would be seen as short by some ppl(me included)and long by some others. It's all relative. And it's an absolute fact, running up the foc on a 28",29",30" arrow is easier than it is on a full length 32" arrow, while maintaining a reasonable T.A.W.
I hope you short draw guys take full advantage of the F.O.C opportunities you have, if you so wish. Good luck out there little buddy! 🤞🦌👋✌️🦖
Are you lunkers tvs dad
In my mind, it seems like the thinner edges would hold up better simply because even when it’s damaged it would still require less PSI to penetrate and cut. That’s why I love using a Scandinavian grind on my knives. It seems like I only have to sharpen them 1/4 as much as my flat, saber or hollow ground knives.
Some very good info for sure.I wish I had all this many years ago.I’ve been bow hunting for 40+ years and this would of been excellent help for sure.
If you had to choose between the grizzly stick Maasai or samurai which would you choose? Both are 200 grain but obviously has a different profile. I can’t seem to make a logical choice other than the Maasai looks more appealing
Perfect arrow flight
with the point weight
you want to shoot.
FIRST
Then masai and learn to sharpen curves.
Do not expect a blood trail....just watch them fall!!
That’s way easier
@@RanchFairy Keep it UP Troy!
I know you pound it in your head and your viewers heads about one piece broadheads. BUT Bear Archery came out with a "new" razorhead a few months ago. If you haven't checked them out, it's a VWS (variable weight system) for tuning. You get 3 150gr fixed 2 blade broadheads (single or double bevel) 9 inserts to make the broadhead 175gr 200gr or 250gr and field tips that weigh the same as the broadheads for practice. I picked up a set and settled on the 200gr heads after some slow-mo and accuracy testing. Would you buy a set and test them out?
I’ve actually asked them to send me some of them
Awesome, hopefully they come through. I'm in Southern Iowa hunting whitetail with them this season. Long time dream of mine to get on a trip to harvest a hog with my bow so I decided to start messing with heavier fixed setups.
@@braxtonwallace8458
And we will sharpen them - correct?
@@RanchFairy currently going through all your videos haha so I'll be trying my best and if I don't get the results I want I have some friends that can do it!
What you are saying makes sense. I couldn’t agree more about using a heavier broadhead. It’s like shooting a heavier bullet. But my question is you will be on a single bevel you exerting more pressure on the opposite side of the Bevel if you are truly using it like a lever. It seems to me that if you have a bevel on both sides this would cause less friction on the cutting surface therefore better penetration and cutting ability. I totally agree with you about the twizzlers with mechanical broad heads they are garbage!!!
The opposing bevels on a double bevel broadhead cancel out the leverage that each side creates. A single bevel broadhead rotates as it passes through tissue (soft or hard), creating a spiral cutting path as it passes (a longer path than a straight path creates}, and when it passes through bone the torque from the rotation cracks the bone. A double bevel BH does not rotate, so when it hits bone it has to rely on the force derived from the bow to smash it way through the bone.
At 5:40, you're comparing the surface area of the bevel, however the bigger difference I notice between those 2 broadheads in in their length. Have you ruled out the length of the head playing a part in it's rotation? Is it possible to do the rotation testing on broadheads of the same length?
On the list…..but the perpendicular leverage is that discussion.
Now - long and low bevel (wide bevel face) probably a winner!!!
Interesting. Do you have any thoughts on a convex edge? Either double or single bevel?
Keep up the hard work lots of good info here lots more to be discovered
great video and great explanation
Hey Ranch Fairy,
Do you still use the EZ V sight, or have you switched back to a traditional pin style? Thanks!
i try that sight 2 times. last year and missed two deer but i put it on two weeks before the season so it was my fault. then i put on the day after the season and try to shoot it until june every other day if weather ok for 4 months and one 3d target i could not get pass 30 yards. i will have been happy to shoot 40 yards with out missing. 20yard was on 30 was 75%, and 40 was 50%. i gave it up i like it a lot i wish it work for me. good luck one thing you can sell them easy
Troy, any benefits using a spinning insert with single bevel broad heads?
I see no advantages
I HAVEN’T tested that so let’s be fair on that - but neither has the company claiming all the “magic” results!!!
The latter is more common. “Magic” claims are easy. Just say it’s magic!!! 😂
Very informational great video like always
(thick)40 degree is very strong, .....(thin) is why a Sushi Knife slices....but the Sushi Knife edge, is not strong.
Yes - I’ve learned a ton about steel tempering and how picky that can be. I say all the time in my videos and podcasts.
“It’s how sharp it is when you pick up the arrow that matters (bloody preferred and of it hit a rock - that one is out)
But on a pure Animal hit and say - dirt
If the blades are chewed up and dull as a hammer / it’s time to wonder what that may cost you in the next animal.
@@RanchFairy I know steel, when it comes to knives. My Teacher is a metallurgist/ Damascus Bladesmith.
I would be interested in broadheads made from Japanese and Swedish steals for cutting. For toughness....leaf spring steel is very good steel and there is plenty of it. Sharpens up good.
drop forged broadheads from leaf spring steel would be real good!
Show more hunt and anatomy videos!!
Which angle rotates most?
The lower angle 25 or so has more lateral force, perpendicular to the shot line, due to the large surface area.
YOU DO NOT want massive amounts of rotation from a steep bevel. We've seen bevels approaching 40 degrees cause deflections.
Absolutely Nothing..
8:20
Could you shoot into ballistic gel to see rotation?
Why? It’s not an animal
Who cares about gel?
@@RanchFairy k
I just realized something else you can wonder and worry about, Troy.
If you have two heads with the same bevel angle, the one with the LESS acute BLADE angle higher MA head, 3:1 ratio, etc.) will rotate LESS as it cuts, right?
Did you say that already? I watch all your stuff, but I may have missed it.
Anyway, it occurred to me that lot of the heads on the market WITH single bevels, but with two different blade angles, could really be fighting themselves. The two angles trying to each rotate at different rates doesn't sound better.
Am I seeing that right.
A lower bevel - say a 20 degree vs 30 will rotate less BUT have more leverage against the tissue or bone because the blade face is larger. Like a longer pry bar
Remember - to rotate it needs to move forward. So the more efficient FORWARD moving head (longer for its width) will rotate more easily. Plus it’s a longer cutting surface - no one talks about that - literally a 3” long cutting edge or a 1.5” cutting edge. Meat and tendons and vitals stay “on” the blade longer if the head is longer. Allowing higher level cuts or blade damage to say half the blade (bone impact) the other half is longer
Breaking things never kills anything. Cutting things does - fact
I don’t know any with unmatched bevels
@@RanchFairy I appreciate the reply, and review is always good, but I understood all that info already (and heartily agree.)
I'm famous for asking weird questions, so I'm used to it.
I may have to draw a few pictures, but lok at ypur second paragraph. That's exactly what I'm talking about, so let me come at it from what you wrote.
In a broadhead with two different blade (not bevel) angles along the cutting edge, what you have is partly an easy-cutting AND a less easy-cutting portion. The bevelled edge is thereby presented differently to the meat by the two angles: as both a slice and a chop. The two will try to turn at different rates, but can't because they are attached to each other.
@@RanchFairy I'm thinking king of unmatched blade angles, rather than unmatched bevels. Like on the Helix which has an acute leading blade angle with a more obtuse angle trailing, or a couple of the short Alien heads from Australia with an obtuse leading angle.
love the detailed ethical kill science
Don’t want to contradict at all, just curious. But with the clotting cascade, if I were to cut myself with a sharp pocketknife it tends to bleed less and heal faster than when I have a tearing wound. I’m not sure if I misunderstand.
When someone slits their wrist, they use a razor...harder for medical to stop the bleeding.
I get what you are saying but I think it's kinda apples to oranges. If you cut your finger or whatever you can just apply pressure and yes it will clot right up. If you cut your lungs they won't just clot up. Also supposedly, duĺl blades could push vessles or tissue out of the way or kinda gum up instead of just slicing it. A sharp blade is more likely to pass through cause less energy is required to get through, but a pass through on a dull blade would be damaging as well.
Razor heads in Michigan
I just received these broadheads as gift are they any good
Sorry I tried to send photos didn't work, but they are cold steel cheapshot bonesaw 125gr.
@@chrisbeyer3527
I’ve never heard of them
@@RanchFairy ok thanks for the info
Question. How does this single bevel broad head and foc setup translate over to crossbow blots?
It’s all energy and the ability of The arrow to remain intact at impact
You’re going faster. It’s more critical
See dragging deer you tube channel
He did a whole series
Awesome thanks.
What's your personal favorite broadhead?
So far, Cutthroat Broadheads seem to be the most consistent, accurate and tough head I've used. I've run them into boards several times (accidently) and they still spin true. Still take an edge really well. Gonna hunt with them this fall.
Shot placement is the key to any type of Broadhead...I believe a 3 blade Broadhead is a good place to be as that extra blade will make a bigger hole and also wound damage
Correct on shot placement
No MATTER the shot angle - broadhead has to hit vitals.
Three blades and blood trails I’ve covered numerous times on my channel
There is (to date) no increased blood trial correlation for broadhead type
Dr Ed’s Natal study does show arrow systems that allow penetrating the vital organs, at multiple shot angles, with the correct arrow SYSTEM, not just broadhead type.
Great information.
Ranch fairy back again!
We have soooo many water buffalo here in the top end of Australia that you need to put this in action here.
When they reduce it from a Penal colony!!!
@@RanchFairy 🤣 hey!
@@RanchFairyit was good enough for Ashby to come here...and do much of his study on broadhead lethality here...😊
Ok so here’s a question I’m currently using stinger buzzcuts and I have been wanting to use 3 blades for while now..yes season is on us and yes I Waited to long lol buttt other then shooting and changing my site can I just use your 3 blade with my current set up or would the entire set up have to change like insert etc? Thanks for the Awsome vids I am learning a lot
Same weight
3 blade is fine
They better be sharp
And better not be junk from wal mart
And BTW - they don’t make better blood trials.
Heavily studied by me and NO ONE else but broadhead manufacturing marketing CLAIMS
And message board idiots in their basement
So if that’s your wish - crap in one hand and wish in another
See what fills up first!!!
@@RanchFairy ok so yes if I got ur 3 blade from Sirius I would have to have the same weight insert ur saying ? I can’t just put the 3 blade on and site it in
@@RanchFairy I’m just newer to all the heavier inserts ..heavier broadheads and I want to get into it more I’m just learning
@@mr.Mikeyboy
That’s fine. My concern is jumping from 125 to 200 grain point and the arrow may not handle it. Fly crazy. For this year I’d stay with 125 and do “the process” next spring - buy a ranch fairy test kit and get to work
@@RanchFairy yessir sounds like a plan I’ll go back and check out website… Thank you for getting back to me!
Wish the Tuffheads were in stock. Tell em to make some product Troy!
So what do you think about the vpa single bevel? Its a 35° I believe.
Sharpen it and strop it
@@RanchFairy you don't think the bevel is too steep?
@@jarridcarter5001
Sharp wins
@@RanchFairy ill get em sharp enough to cut your breath so I suppose I'm winning!
Fairy. I like things really really complicated. (I’m an engineer). It’s got me wondering about a double bevel edge. Like a knife. Maximize area where twisting force can be applied but a 40 degree bevel (super narrow) on the edge for durability.
"Throughout the study, not a single large bone-split has been observed with ANY double-bevel broadhead."
Dr. Ed Ashby
The twist comes mechanically from the broad head as it starts to penetrate the spin or rotation of the arrow I don’t think will give a flywheel affect, maybe some trough flesh an tissue but on impact of bone I would think it’s mechanics. I may be wrong though.
@@matthewserkert4401 I’m still talking about bevel on one side…..just TWO bevels on one side.
@@danielduroy3517 I’m still talking about bevel on one side…..just TWO bevels on one side.
@@chrismartin5166 Well, dual bevels on one side of the blades, is a different animal. As Heath Gamache posted an hour ago, Innovative Outdoorsman TH-cam channel has addressed this issue. I'm sorry I didn't understand your post. You did mention "Like a knife," and most knives are double beveled (a bevel on each side of the blade), as well as most knives (but not all) have dual bevels on a side..
Is the vital v the best spot to aim when using mechanicals as well?
Physiologically
That’s where they die
I wouldn't aim at the shoulder. Getting your heads to go through the ribs after the blades deployed seems like really bad pennetration to me. I'd aim at the crease tight to the shoulder or an inch behind, double lung. That said, I wouldn't hunt with an expandable anyway.
Grim reapers I have found are better than any other mechanical or fixed and I have never had them fail I have always gotten pass throughs only shooting 60 pounds! That’s even on their whitetail special 2 inch cut!
@@kalebmcdaniel9147
When “always” doesn’t happen
I’ll be here !!!
Well I will be switching to either fixed or hybrid grim reapers but I haven’t decided yet. I saw a test in which the hybrid penetrated as far as fixed but I know fixed are way more durable.
not question you i just want to know why you went to a 3 blade? did you have problem with blood trail? i dont care i was wondering. also is sirius archery going to make the 315 meathead i will like to buy some more
He's got a video on his 3 blade and why but long and short is they're easier to sharpen than single bevels and much more durable than most big names on the market. His way of making a transition broadhead to "shooting adult arrows" for those who don't want to put in the time a single bevel requires.
@@TO-7025 i saw the video. i was asking him, maybe me but the single is not that hard to sharping. i have not shot anything yet with my single blades this is why i was asking. i was wounder the single blades break through bones much better than 3 blades he has proven that many times. this is the reason i switch. now he is shooting 3 blades i was wounder why? i not question him i just was asking. is it because they are easy to trail blood i get that, is it they hold up better i get that, are they sharper i get that, or is it a money issue? i know they not selling the meathunters 315 anymore, i like to buy some. i like him i been follow him for few years i did alot of changes and he answer alot of questions i been having. i have read ashby study, i was hopping he will answer it even if it private. i not mad or hate the guy. i not setting him up i was wondering. is it blood trailing maybe this is something i need to think about before sinking $200 into blade again if they ever sell them again. if he want to massage me that fine also, i see he is answer questions but for some reason you feel to speak for him
I'll let Troy respond if he'd like to and in no way was I trying to speak for him so please don't take that the wrong way. From what I've gathered watching his videos, that seemed like an appropriate response to your question and was only attempting to help. I believe he's still advocating for us hunter's to shoot single bevel but his transition from flappers to single bevel is just that, a fixed 3 blade that's easier for the masses to use. Maybe he's just testing his 3 blade hence why he's been using it but again, not speaking for the man...
From what I remember...a 2 bevel is preferred, BUT there are 11 other things that matter also. A 3 blade is easier to sharpen & easier to tune. So like the other guy mentioned, RF was saying here is a good option for a heavy head for those hunters not willing to jump on the single bevel idea yet.
@@snapcrack55 i talk to troy many times over the last two years, i am not big carbon person matter fact i hate carbon arrows. after talking to him he got me to change my mind for the FOC. i have shot 3 blade all my hunting life, and i have shot heavy arrows in the 600g for the last 20 years. there was a lot i did not understand was happen to my arrows. the main reason i found out was because my FOC was around 15% now at 22% my arrows fly much better. i do know troy and i been follow him a while now and agree with most he says. ashby i have and listen to just about everything the guy said and wrote for the last two years. i agree with him also. i dont follow the trends when coming to archery it was nice to find people that agree with heavy arrows. chuck adams wrote about it 25 years ago, this when i went to heavy arrows. troy and ashby help me through question i been having for the last 15 years. the question i was asking why did he switch from a two blade to a three blade. i shooting a two blade but have not kill any deer last year to test it out. i hopping to hunt more this year and to give it a test. i dont know why this question is taboo. i dont care was just asking. my big fear was with a two blade is the blood trails. if this the reason why he switch maybe is something to think about. ashby says the blood trail is the same if not better. ashby had many people tracking for him so for him it was good. i sharping many 3 blades heads they are not easy, i bought a special stone to keep my old heads sharp. this single blade it a peace of cake like sharping a knife. matter fact my head is sharper then my knife. please if he dont want to answer it find, i just did not want to sink $200 on blades come to find out the blood trail sucks, if they every sell the meathunter again. i already bought a set of 315g i just want to buy a back up set.
Great videos, something I would find interesting would be to shoot a pig with the high foc and high weight arrow setups that we all love. However instead of a good broadhead, use a popular mechanical that’s been sharpened and stroped. Just to see the results/ differences, or if the blades could even hold up to that kind of energy. Something like an all steel sevr, they seem popular right now.
Maybe you should watch his old videos where all he does is shoot hogs with what hes talking about. Jesus man.
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@@J155P 🤣