Hi Ash. As a Ducati tech for over 20 years, can I offer some advice? The electrical system on Ducati's is not complicated, BUT, don't go any😅 where near the ECU with a 12v fly lead. There is 12v supply to it but it's dropped to 5v internally so poking about with a fly lead is asking for trouble. The other thing is don't try go run it without makng sure when the cam belts were last replaced. They should be replaced every 2 years or 12000 miles. You might get get away with it, you might not! Another thing to check is that the earth lead between the chassis and the engine is attached, from what I remember it's at the back of the engine and goes to a extended footrest hanger bolt. Also I think ghere is an earthing point for the loom on the l/h side of the frame, all yellow leads I think. One lf the problems was the reg/ rect, mounted in the air intake on the headlamp bracket, this could cause problems. Also check the 30A charging fuse down near the battery. Don't rely just on continuity, measure voltage as well, voltage drop is a sure sign of poor connections or bad earth. I'll watch with interest and see how you get on.
Thanks for all that mate, I'll be super careful with the ECU, that's a useful piece of information that the voltage drops, I only attached the fly lead where it was supposed to be connected to on the fuse, same as the wiring diagram 😊 ... Earth straps look good, I've got some service history for the bike so I'll check the belt status 👍
The other window where you thought the oil was, is for crank timing. The later ST's just have a large headed Allen screw there, so you're lucky to have the window. Also the footrest hangers and exhaust have been painted black, and it's just the black paint (not anodising) coming off. Original factory finish for both is the brushed aluminium you can see underneath.
Looks like someone had a Matt black rattle can and attacked the silencers and the footrest hangers. From memory, people have issues with the plug on the wires from the stator and a common mod is to remove the connector and just solder the wires together .
The thundercat is back on sale at trade direct, it was just a bit too heavy for my 61 year old body and my arthritic hands couldn't manage the clutch. Well worth a visit to their site, more projects than you could poke a stick at.
Any bike is fixable, even a full wiring harness hand rebuild if necessary. Might try your patience just a bit, but it's doable. Those black areas are paint the previous owner added to 'change up' the look a bit or something, the good news is that underneath that the original finish is well preserved. The bad news is getting it off delicately so as to not to ruin the original finish underneath might be a real trick. Be gentle, go slow and you will have a good result.
As others have said, footrests and silencer should be silver rattle can god has been busy, yellow wires are from stator to regulator rectifier, most just changed regulator but ignore main issue is stator is buggered, it's needing a rewire and replacing regulator rectifier with a good one, lovely bike too.
Thanks mate, I'm going to try and remove the black paint to get them back to standard, failing that I'll paint them black again 🤣 I'm looking into the rectifier a bit more, there's some paperwork in the service folder that says something about it
@@AshRowland Aprilia Rsv1000r had a similar issue used to melt the connection box on the 3 yellow wires, most changed reg/rec thinking it would cure problem, but really the stator was charging way too much, I commented mid way through the Video 🤦 I think you got it more than covered 👍
@28 minutes I don't know anything about Ducatis but on all other "normal vehicles" that I have worked on terminal 30 is the main supply to a relay, and terminal 87 is the main output. Best of luck with the bike
I had one of These, Same Problem, the Volltage Regulator in these Bikes are a big Problem. On my Bike it melted the wiring loom. I am sorry to say, this was one of the worst Bikes I ever had. Never Gott all Problems sorted. Good Luck.
You would be wise to replace the battery - starter solenoid - starter motor wires for heavier items if they have not already been done, the originals were too small to handle the current and are prone to simply giving up the ghost.
Thanks, yea, there's a lot of info on this throughout the interwebs, I think some of the upgrade work has been done judging by the thickness of the wires coming out of the generator
Sorry about all the random posts. Don't assume that a new front loom will solve your issues. Hopefully it will, but I wouldn't bank on it. I had similar problem some years back on ST4S. Bought a new front loom off eBay for same year and model bike. Fitted the new front loom and had the problem you've got now - main beam shows on battery light and turn flashers in and oil light flashes (or similar) In the end I had to modify the loom near that big connector. I'm guessing previous owner already bought another front loom, and then had the same issues I had. As a sidenote, I can give you a link to download parts pdf (absolute fkn goldmine) and workshop manual. Not posting right away as I dunno if TH-cam will delete the link - so just say if you want it or not, then I'll try and post it. Am out for the evening tonight though.
Yes please on the pdf manual mate, my email address is in the description 😊 I've actually got a full loom and ordered the front one too... I'm hoping the clocks are alright
@@AshRowland Clocks shouldn't be fried. Your temp display obviously works - they generally stop functioning as water gets into them aground the screen edges and through where the little button is. If you leave the bike out in the rain put a plastic bag over that. Yours looks to be working great. That flashing 'LO' just means engine temp is low. When it gets up to temp it will change to a temperature reading. Which reminds me - theres 2 temp sensors on these bikes. One sends temp to ecu so it knows when to turn the fan on, and the other sends temp to that lcd display. Speedo is mechanical (off front wheel) so that'll be ok. Rev counter is electrical but can't see why it would be fried.
Many people Change the Regulator, and the Position of it, I don't think you can get the original anymore. If you can get it fixed you have one of the best sounding Bikes.
Hey M8 - Lovin' the start to this series - It's something I'm seriously considering for my youngest (16) who's looking a starter bike & I'd like something to work on with him - give him a sense of how it works/goes together so he'll have a better understanding of how it relates to riding it and give him a sense of ownership so he won't abuse it (yeah right 🤣). Anyhoo - thinking of giving these guys a shout,. Maybe you could recommend something? Also - maybe we could do a video of it or something for your channel? Anyway - Great to see this - love it - can't wait for the next installment 😁
Hey hey Millar Family! 100% up for this, we'll have to work on the logistics... I'd recommend a 125 sport bike simply because they're pretty basic, look cool and they weigh about half as much as a 600cc sport bike. email me, email address in the description of this video 😃
Hey Ash, I just bought your Thundercat! I was amazed it was still available and so cheap. Anything I should think of doing to it soon? any jobs you had in mind?
Check the manual regarding how to check the oil. I've just bought a zzr1100 no oil showing. That's because you have to run the engine for 5 minutes then check. Every bike is different.
If it's like my 97 900SS it's not resistant to ethanol in the fuel. If that's E10 you need to get it out of the tank as soon as possible and make sure all the fuel pipes and filters haven't been dissolved by it.
just take care that you can't do ohmic measurement (diode/continuity test) on line/trace where is possible to have DC potential while measuring In other words, if you have 12 or so Volts between two points, it'll buzz pretty much the same as you're having continuity, which is misleading conclusion - with voltage present, make just voltage measurement; ohmic measurement only on cold circuit (no voltage present)
Thank you for this, that makes sense, I should have realised that... I've revisited it this evening and I've made a couple more discoveries with the battery disconnected 😊
I’ve got a similar problem with a Ducati 750ss fi, it burnt the regulator wiring out, I replaced that with a China special and now it cranks but won’t fire, I don’t think it’s getting spark. I hope you are going to give me some tips and enthusiasm to finally sort it.
I'll definitely give you some enthusiasm, as for tips, not sure 🤣 it might have damaged your loom in areas other than your rectifier, the sparks come from coil packs on mine so maybe look there? Any relevant fuses? I really hope your ecu is OK 👍
Nice bike .... good to see your detective skills improving too. Rectumfrier issues are common on older bikes, so go for a better version (FH020 or similar) and run cables direct from stator to rectumfrier without connectors. Check condition of stator too. Nice work Ash
Thanks mate, it looks like it was soldered together before, and it also looks like it's got a decent rectifier on it, found a receipt in the paperwork... rectrumfrier 🤣
I’ve had a 1098 for 10 years every year I take apart every connector clean and inspect it especially the one that goes to the reg it wicks oil from the case and can play havoc they are great bikes but you have to look after them
@@AshRowland I have a 2012 Kawasaki er6n which I wanted to replace the indicators to LED. Tried to install but don’t work. Hence why I’m looking into wiring etc.
Great you're fixing up an old ST2 GREAT bikes I have a ´97 😎 12:49 Someone has painted those footrest hangers and the zorst cans, original finish is plain non coloured anodising / silver. 14:53 Nope, quite the opposite for the older ones, perhaps the newer ones are a pig but then aren't all new bikes?? 🤣 The 916/996/998 fairings come off with dzuz fasteners in under 30 secs, what could be better!! 20:20 Yeah it's been bodged, normally there is a connector there but it often overheats and melts the block connector. The stator wiring on all earlier ducs is undersized... Also looks like a new RR and upgraded battery main cables to heaview duty ones. Whilst in about all that wiring, chase the stator wires back to the stator & replace them with heavier duty wires. Throw away that RR and get a decent Shendengin MOSFET RR, you will probably need to mount this in s different location as they are larger and thicker but infinitely superior. Check your stator as well they are a weak point and new OEM ones are getting scarce.
Thanks for all that mate, I'll check the wiring as you suggest and look into the RR situation... you're right about the fairings, they came off very easily! Not sure if it's going to be easier to get the exhaust and foot pegs back to plain finish, or paint them black again 🤔
Great reply. When redoing the stator wires it is worth lengthening them and curling them upwards and back down to the connector (or soldered joint) as oil wicks between the wires and the insulation causing an oil leak. A relocation of the RR into a cooler place is well worth doing too.
@@volvogt21 thanks mate, I found the instructions for the rectifier in some paperwork, says it needs to be mounted to the chassis using heat sink compound... I'll check it all over properly, hopefully it's the minging wiring that's at fault and the rectifier is OK 👍
@@AshRowland Yeah that's for the crappy OEM type, as mentioned above - get a proper Shindengen mosfet RR and all your charging woes will be gone. It will not fit in the oem location tho.... Beware of cheap crappy chineseum knock offs tho...
Good video that was mate very nice looking bike I hope that loom fixes your issue! I think I'm about to become a frequent shopper at that trade bikes place in fact I think we should take a trip up there for our meet up as I have an idea 🤣😅
Wiring looms being old is actually a legitimate reason for fires - especially on these bikes. Take it from me, a 996 owner whose loom got quite toasty and left me stranded. Over the years connectors get dirt in them, cause resistance, resistance creates heat, then you get something called thermal runaway happening. Couple of observations: - Your fuel pump needs to come out and the fuel level sender needs replacing. That'll leak very soon. Do all piping while you have it out too. - someone has put Exact Start cables on this with the hope of improving the startup. Put a correct yuasa battery on it instead. - do not poke the positive cable on the battery with ground connected. Positive should be already connected when you add ground. - you 100% need a new main wiring loom, front loom and perhaps ignition loom. The connectors are black with decades of heat cycles and dirt. even if you fix the continuity you're not fixing the problem of resistance. - check your rectifiers health - check your relays health - replace your oil pressure sensor - DO NOT start it without doing belts and clearances
Thanks for all that mate 😃 Positive first, then ground, got it Rectifier is good, replaced in may with a reputable one relays look good I'll order a pressure sensor Cheers 😃
Your fault finding is a little out...when you use resistance measurement just a single strand of copper will give you a beep. You are better off using voltage drops in what you are doing as if you have a part broken cable when it goes under load you will see the connection fail . Hope this helps. Subscribed! Great presentation
@@AshRowland I use a switch lube and a brass wire brush to clean switch contacts. Lasts longer than wd40 and stops tracking across pins. I always find that wd,40 traps water.
Hi ash, not sure if any had mentioned this, but the lights on the dash, neutral, turn and oil bulps mite just be put in the wrong socket, the bulps can be switched and giving the wrong light on the dash
@@AshRowland great to know you figured it out… hope you get the bike working.. i have worked with my 916 that had a lot of problems. Ran very funny used a lot of fuel all the time, it came down to two temp sensors being bad. The air temp sensor and the water temp sensor… only when i got a diag cable to my pc i found these errors
@@AshRowland there is some free software out there… guzzidiag among others… its also up to witch ecu there is on your bike… p7/p8/1.6m there are a lot of options… mine 916 is a 748 with 916 engine… when i got it it had a p7 ecu from a 888 and a lot of things did not work… rev counter among others… ;-)
Hey ash, glad you bought this duc, I almost pulled the trigger on buying this myself a few weeks back. Even priced up service kit and a full loom lol. Guess you got there first, should be an easy fix, my only concern was deciding which bike to get rid of next season 😂
Yeah, readily available too. During my pondering and research, a lot of owners upgrade a known weak point in the rectifier & earth wiring from factory, plenty of info on uk forums regarding it. Good luck, should be a sweet bike once its fixed.
Nice to ride, but styled by Stevie Wonder! I paid £800 for my last running/riding one. That's not wear and tear on the footrest hanger etc, something has stripped the coating off. Regulator failure, and the associated burning is common I'm afraid.
Once I've fixed it I'll have to make sure it doesn't happen again... I wasn's sure of the look of the bike to begin with but it'ss really growing on me
Ash-great work through and by process of step by step elimination you find the offender. I really do enjoy your vlogs and appreciate your efforts. I thought the GPX you spotted was a lovely thing too
Oh great. ST's are fabulous bikes. 944 says it's an ST2. There's also ST4 and ST3 (plus a couple of 'S' models) The number tells you how many valves the heads are. ST2 = 2 valve head, ST4 = 4 valve head, ST3 = 3 valve head. It's an L twin btw, not a V twin lol. Haven't watched the full vid yet (am out visiting) but my first thought, given what you said about the burnt wiring, is that it's Regulator/Rectifier related. Some of the early ones are I think 3 phase. Reg/Rec on later bikes is behind a grille under headlight - earliest ST2's had it in another location, that I'm not sure of, but think it's by the engine somewhere. If it is Reg/rec, and it is in an engine location, you could do with relocating it for better airflow. I'm really looking forward to this one, as I love ST's and have an ST4 and an ST4S.
Thanks for all that Peter, yea it's an ST2, and i thought it was the regulator too but as you'll see when you get around to watching it that it's probably something else... ah, L-twin, doh 🤣
Having watched the video, it's a very yucky wiring loom. I can empathise, I had to replace the loom on my Enfield, but that had around 80% less wires, but it still drives you mad, doesn't it? Looking forward to the next one matey 🙂
I tackle my motorbike projects in exactly the same way as you ash. Learn as I go and learn from any mistakes 🤷♂️😅. I find it much more fun that way😂. Oh nice looking bike. Can't wait to see it back to it's former glory👍😁
@@AshRowland I started striping it down last weekend...done a few jobs on it .. new cables got the rear brake working...I need to do a carb sync....never done that .. but can't be that hard lol
Your wiring plug reminds me of the Jaguar XF BCM 😂. Good investigations Ash. If it's that half loom then job should be a good un once you have replaced it.
@@AshRowland The most difficult part of the repair is the state of the cables as they are corroded along a considerable length, so they need acid and soda to clean, then neutralise the conductor. The second most difficult part is making the soldered up package sufficiently compact to fit behind the fairing, it requires staggering the cable lengths. The main power cables need a fair bit of heat - modern solder connectors are probably an idea here rather than heat shrink and a straight solder butt joint interlacing the strands of the core.
Oh Ash!! you don't know what you've done!!! I didn't even know this place existed and I live about 2 miles away in Bedworth, and I needed a winter hack! This is awesome....I'm brimming with project bike excitement now lol. P.S. not watched video yet, I was too busy ogling all their bikes lol
Bit of Ducati bad design allowing water to get in the rubber shroud, even if it drained you would still have evaporation corroding everything, im sure you will find a way to seal that up to stop water ingress
People who think Ducatis are horrible to work on are people who definitely should not work on Ducatis. And better still, not on any bike. Or car 😂. Ducatis are (generally) well engineered and well built. But you better understand a little about engineering (or be able read a manual), use your brain and do your work carefully to a good standard if you want it to work well. Too much to ask from some apparently…
Yea, from what I've experienced so far it's actually been lovely to work on, side fairings came off nice and easily and the wiring doesn't seem overly complicated
Good night Ash and Kate i love watching your TH-cam videos on your TH-cam channel. I hope that you are all well and that you are enjoying your bike projects I missed you and Kate and your videos on your TH-cam channel. Please keep safe and warm and please say hello to Kate from Dave Rigby please keep up your good work on your you tube channel
Dont think so, as it happend due to water in the connections….. seen it a lot of times on cars. Just remember to grease the new connector, to prevent it from happening again. Also check the seals on the connectors.
@AshRowland I'm only joking mate. I love what you do. I'm just impatient. You are very cluey at solving these problems. Good viewing for the motorcycle enthusiast.
@@rsc68er that's cool mate, I knew you were kidding 😊 replacing the loom feels like a bit of a cheat but I could be there for days trying to repair the existing one 🤣
The quaility of this generation of Ducatis isnt good. If you get one thats been garage furniture, well done. But if its a bit grotty, walk away. The clocks and switchgear dont age well, the wing mirrors are a joke, the frames crack and helicoils will be your best friend.
Go to bit.ly/ASHTTTKnievel and enter code ASH for 15% off your TTT Knievel watch and own a piece of history
Hi Ash. As a Ducati tech for over 20 years, can I offer some advice? The electrical system on Ducati's is not complicated, BUT, don't go any😅 where near the ECU with a 12v fly lead.
There is 12v supply to it but it's dropped to 5v internally so poking about with a fly lead is asking for trouble.
The other thing is don't try go run it without makng sure when the cam belts were last replaced.
They should be replaced every 2 years or 12000 miles. You might get get away with it, you might not!
Another thing to check is that the earth lead between the chassis and the engine is attached, from what I remember it's at the back of the engine and goes to a extended footrest hanger bolt.
Also I think ghere is an earthing point for the loom on the l/h side of the frame, all yellow leads I think.
One lf the problems was the reg/ rect, mounted in the air intake on the headlamp bracket, this could cause problems. Also check the 30A charging fuse down near the battery.
Don't rely just on continuity, measure voltage as well, voltage drop is a sure sign of poor connections or bad earth.
I'll watch with interest and see how you get on.
Just had a thought, I don't think the earth leads are yellow. The alternator leads are! It's been 10 years since I last worked on one.
Yea, alternator leads are yellow 😊
Thanks for all that mate, I'll be super careful with the ECU, that's a useful piece of information that the voltage drops, I only attached the fly lead where it was supposed to be connected to on the fuse, same as the wiring diagram 😊 ... Earth straps look good, I've got some service history for the bike so I'll check the belt status 👍
The other window where you thought the oil was, is for crank timing.
The later ST's just have a large headed Allen screw there, so you're lucky to have the window.
Also the footrest hangers and exhaust have been painted black, and it's just the black paint (not anodising) coming off.
Original factory finish for both is the brushed aluminium you can see underneath.
Ah cool, I'll probably blast the black off and hand polish them... thanks for the tip about the window 👍
@@AshRowland
Yeah that's the flywheel.
There's timing marks on it
Looks like someone had a Matt black rattle can and attacked the silencers and the footrest hangers.
From memory, people have issues with the plug on the wires from the stator and a common mod is to remove the connector and just solder the wires together .
That makes sense and explains the soldering 😊
Update on this... I've been attacking it with Acetone 🤣
@@AshRowland , you might find that T Cut would do it (worked on a friends fairing when someone had put matt black point on one part)
@@katywalker8322 the paint was so easy to come off with Acetone, literally wiped it like a spill on a worktop counter 🤣
That vid was a bloody good watch Ash ! Can’t wait for part two.
Thanks for sharing it with us.
Thank you mate, part 2 coming soon, hopefully won't be too long
Enjoyed this one! great to see someone else taking on motorcycle rebuilds in the UK 😁
Thank you mate! Yea, there aren't many of us... Love your channel mate 👍
I never thought I'd be engrossed in a wiring problem! I learned a lot. Thank you and good luck!
Haha thank you! 😃
The thundercat is back on sale at trade direct, it was just a bit too heavy for my 61 year old body and my arthritic hands couldn't manage the clutch. Well worth a visit to their site, more projects than you could poke a stick at.
Excellent fault finding methods Ash well done mate
Thanks Colin 👍
Any bike is fixable, even a full wiring harness hand rebuild if necessary. Might try your patience just a bit, but it's doable.
Those black areas are paint the previous owner added to 'change up' the look a bit or something, the good news is that underneath that the original finish is well preserved. The bad news is getting it off delicately so as to not to ruin the original finish underneath might be a real trick. Be gentle, go slow and you will have a good result.
Yea, a few others have said that they're supposed to be silver... I'll try and remove the paint 👍
Nice one Ash can't wait to see you tackle this baby, looking forward to next instalment as we speak
Thanks mate, shouldn't be too long on this one
As others have said, footrests and silencer should be silver rattle can god has been busy, yellow wires are from stator to regulator rectifier, most just changed regulator but ignore main issue is stator is buggered, it's needing a rewire and replacing regulator rectifier with a good one, lovely bike too.
Thanks mate, I'm going to try and remove the black paint to get them back to standard, failing that I'll paint them black again 🤣
I'm looking into the rectifier a bit more, there's some paperwork in the service folder that says something about it
@@AshRowland Aprilia Rsv1000r had a similar issue used to melt the connection box on the 3 yellow wires, most changed reg/rec thinking it would cure problem, but really the stator was charging way too much, I commented mid way through the Video 🤦 I think you got it more than covered 👍
@28 minutes I don't know anything about Ducatis but on all other "normal vehicles" that I have worked on terminal 30 is the main supply to a relay, and terminal 87 is the main output. Best of luck with the bike
Thanks mate, I went by corresponding wire colours from the diagram, assuming they were in the correct places 🤣
I had one of These, Same Problem, the Volltage Regulator in these Bikes are a big Problem. On my Bike it melted the wiring loom. I am sorry to say, this was one of the worst Bikes I ever had. Never Gott all Problems sorted. Good Luck.
Thanks mate... it looks like the regulator was replaced, whether it's a cheap regulator or not is yet to be confirmed lol
You would be wise to replace the battery - starter solenoid - starter motor wires for heavier items if they have not already been done, the originals were too small to handle the current and are prone to simply giving up the ghost.
Thanks, yea, there's a lot of info on this throughout the interwebs, I think some of the upgrade work has been done judging by the thickness of the wires coming out of the generator
You just gained a sub! Cool video that place looks like heaven 😍
Amazing, thank you 😊 yea, it's a treasure trove!
Sorry about all the random posts.
Don't assume that a new front loom will solve your issues.
Hopefully it will, but I wouldn't bank on it.
I had similar problem some years back on ST4S. Bought a new front loom off eBay for same year and model bike.
Fitted the new front loom and had the problem you've got now - main beam shows on battery light and turn flashers in and oil light flashes (or similar)
In the end I had to modify the loom near that big connector.
I'm guessing previous owner already bought another front loom, and then had the same issues I had.
As a sidenote, I can give you a link to download parts pdf (absolute fkn goldmine) and workshop manual.
Not posting right away as I dunno if TH-cam will delete the link - so just say if you want it or not, then I'll try and post it. Am out for the evening tonight though.
Yes please on the pdf manual mate, my email address is in the description 😊 I've actually got a full loom and ordered the front one too... I'm hoping the clocks are alright
@@AshRowland
I've posted a link for manuals, but if it got deleted I'll email it later.
Am out until maybe 10.30pm
@@AshRowland
Clocks shouldn't be fried.
Your temp display obviously works - they generally stop functioning as water gets into them aground the screen edges and through where the little button is. If you leave the bike out in the rain put a plastic bag over that.
Yours looks to be working great.
That flashing 'LO' just means engine temp is low. When it gets up to temp it will change to a temperature reading.
Which reminds me - theres 2 temp sensors on these bikes. One sends temp to ecu so it knows when to turn the fan on, and the other sends temp to that lcd display.
Speedo is mechanical (off front wheel) so that'll be ok.
Rev counter is electrical but can't see why it would be fried.
What a beautiful bike!! Congratulations!!
Thank you Bill, it certainly looks great, it's been touched up in a couple of places but overall looks lovely
Just discovered this channel 🙌🙌🙌 cannot wait to see this Ducati finished.
Thank you mate, glad you enjoyed it! The next video on the Ducati is out Sunday at 15:00 😊
Great video, Ash. A nice bit of investigation!
Thank you mate 👍
18:29 rear shock linkage end balljoint. Surface rust is typical but easily remedied / avoided
Thanks mate
Many people Change the Regulator, and the Position of it, I don't think you can get the original anymore. If you can get it fixed you have one of the best sounding Bikes.
I'm hoping to hear it soon!
8:37 best bike I ever owned was the 1100s. Hands down in 30 years of bikes, that's my favourite.
Hopefully I'll get to ride one some day 😊
@@AshRowland you should.
You're a brave man,taking on a ducati, with an electrical fault!looking forward to the next instalment!
Thanks mate, you never know, it might be an easy one 🤣
indeed! brave man to take italian bikes and super hero to take italian bikes with electrical problems 😂
@@RATADATUAVELHA 🤣
Hey M8 - Lovin' the start to this series - It's something I'm seriously considering for my youngest (16) who's looking a starter bike & I'd like something to work on with him - give him a sense of how it works/goes together so he'll have a better understanding of how it relates to riding it and give him a sense of ownership so he won't abuse it (yeah right 🤣). Anyhoo - thinking of giving these guys a shout,. Maybe you could recommend something? Also - maybe we could do a video of it or something for your channel? Anyway - Great to see this - love it - can't wait for the next installment 😁
Hey hey Millar Family! 100% up for this, we'll have to work on the logistics... I'd recommend a 125 sport bike simply because they're pretty basic, look cool and they weigh about half as much as a 600cc sport bike. email me, email address in the description of this video 😃
Hey Ash, I just bought your Thundercat! I was amazed it was still available and so cheap. Anything I should think of doing to it soon? any jobs you had in mind?
Amazing! Send me an email mate, it's in the description of this video 👍
Check the manual regarding how to check the oil. I've just bought a zzr1100 no oil showing. That's because you have to run the engine for 5 minutes then check. Every bike is different.
Yea, thanks mate, I've ordered a manual 👍
@@AshRowland
I've just emailed you one
nice new project, looking forward to the progress
Thanks buddy, should be a good one
5:11 that's because that's the timing window...😆
Yea, I realise that now 🤣
Great fault finding, you are very patient 👍👍👍
Thank you mate 👍 I try my best 😊
If it's like my 97 900SS it's not resistant to ethanol in the fuel. If that's E10 you need to get it out of the tank as soon as possible and make sure all the fuel pipes and filters haven't been dissolved by it.
Thanks mate, I treat all my bikes to E5, if it's E10 in the tank then the previous owner was running it on that for a while 👍
I owned one of these and loved it. As soon as you said where the battery I had a little giggle. Great vid. Thanks
👍 thanks bud, yea, took me a minute or two 🤣
just take care that you can't do ohmic measurement (diode/continuity test) on line/trace where is possible to have DC potential while measuring
In other words, if you have 12 or so Volts between two points, it'll buzz pretty much the same as you're having continuity, which is misleading
conclusion - with voltage present, make just voltage measurement; ohmic measurement only on cold circuit (no voltage present)
Thank you for this, that makes sense, I should have realised that... I've revisited it this evening and I've made a couple more discoveries with the battery disconnected 😊
I’ve got a similar problem with a Ducati 750ss fi, it burnt the regulator wiring out, I replaced that with a China special and now it cranks but won’t fire, I don’t think it’s getting spark. I hope you are going to give me some tips and enthusiasm to finally sort it.
I'll definitely give you some enthusiasm, as for tips, not sure 🤣 it might have damaged your loom in areas other than your rectifier, the sparks come from coil packs on mine so maybe look there? Any relevant fuses? I really hope your ecu is OK 👍
I'd replace that Exide battery with a Yuasa. Good find so hopefully that's the fix.
I would, but it's actually a really good battery, holds its charge great, I'll find out soon it it's got the beans to turn the bike over 👍
Nice bike .... good to see your detective skills improving too. Rectumfrier issues are common on older bikes, so go for a better version (FH020 or similar) and run cables direct from stator to rectumfrier without connectors. Check condition of stator too. Nice work Ash
Thanks mate, it looks like it was soldered together before, and it also looks like it's got a decent rectifier on it, found a receipt in the paperwork... rectrumfrier 🤣
I’ve had a 1098 for 10 years every year I take apart every connector clean and inspect it especially the one that goes to the reg it wicks oil from the case and can play havoc they are great bikes but you have to look after them
Thanks mate, that's actually a really good idea and doesn't take that long to do
I learned a lot about problem solving wiring. Good vid 👍🏻
Thanks mate, start at one end, doesn't matter if its the battery end or the bit thats not working end, you'll get to the issue between the two
@@AshRowland I have a 2012 Kawasaki er6n which I wanted to replace the indicators to LED. Tried to install but don’t work. Hence why I’m looking into wiring etc.
@chazon2wheels some LEDs will only work with the wires one way round, try switching the wires round
@@AshRowland ok I’ll try that. Thanks for your help.
Great you're fixing up an old ST2 GREAT bikes I have a ´97 😎
12:49 Someone has painted those footrest hangers and the zorst cans, original finish is plain non coloured anodising / silver.
14:53 Nope, quite the opposite for the older ones, perhaps the newer ones are a pig but then aren't all new bikes?? 🤣 The 916/996/998 fairings come off with dzuz fasteners in under 30 secs, what could be better!!
20:20 Yeah it's been bodged, normally there is a connector there but it often overheats and melts the block connector. The stator wiring on all earlier ducs is undersized... Also looks like a new RR and upgraded battery main cables to heaview duty ones.
Whilst in about all that wiring, chase the stator wires back to the stator & replace them with heavier duty wires. Throw away that RR and get a decent Shendengin MOSFET RR, you will probably need to mount this in s different location as they are larger and thicker but infinitely superior. Check your stator as well they are a weak point and new OEM ones are getting scarce.
Thanks for all that mate, I'll check the wiring as you suggest and look into the RR situation... you're right about the fairings, they came off very easily! Not sure if it's going to be easier to get the exhaust and foot pegs back to plain finish, or paint them black again 🤔
Great reply. When redoing the stator wires it is worth lengthening them and curling them upwards and back down to the connector (or soldered joint) as oil wicks between the wires and the insulation causing an oil leak. A relocation of the RR into a cooler place is well worth doing too.
@@volvogt21 thanks mate, I found the instructions for the rectifier in some paperwork, says it needs to be mounted to the chassis using heat sink compound... I'll check it all over properly, hopefully it's the minging wiring that's at fault and the rectifier is OK 👍
@@AshRowland Yeah that's for the crappy OEM type, as mentioned above - get a proper Shindengen mosfet RR and all your charging woes will be gone. It will not fit in the oem location tho.... Beware of cheap crappy chineseum knock offs tho...
about to buy a st2 myself..this should be good.
Hopefully yours doesn't have a bad loom... check this connector when you get it 👍
Good video that was mate very nice looking bike I hope that loom fixes your issue! I think I'm about to become a frequent shopper at that trade bikes place in fact I think we should take a trip up there for our meet up as I have an idea 🤣😅
That sounds brilliant... a race to start a bike? 🤣
@AshRowland something like that I'll drop you a message in the morning and we will sort a meet up to make some plans 🤟
looking forward to the next episode
Thanks, next Sunday 👍
Wiring looms being old is actually a legitimate reason for fires - especially on these bikes. Take it from me, a 996 owner whose loom got quite toasty and left me stranded.
Over the years connectors get dirt in them, cause resistance, resistance creates heat, then you get something called thermal runaway happening.
Couple of observations:
- Your fuel pump needs to come out and the fuel level sender needs replacing. That'll leak very soon. Do all piping while you have it out too.
- someone has put Exact Start cables on this with the hope of improving the startup. Put a correct yuasa battery on it instead.
- do not poke the positive cable on the battery with ground connected. Positive should be already connected when you add ground.
- you 100% need a new main wiring loom, front loom and perhaps ignition loom. The connectors are black with decades of heat cycles and dirt. even if you fix the continuity you're not fixing the problem of resistance.
- check your rectifiers health
- check your relays health
- replace your oil pressure sensor
- DO NOT start it without doing belts and clearances
Thanks for all that mate 😃
Positive first, then ground, got it
Rectifier is good, replaced in may with a reputable one
relays look good
I'll order a pressure sensor
Cheers 😃
Nice one. Love these bikes hate the fairing . That issue you found is not uncommon
Fairings were so easy to get off, I was quite impressed lol
nice bike mate
👍
LOL Italian electrics! I had a friend riding his Ducatti fast on a freeway one night when “ping” out went the lights!
Wow!
3:49: 289CTA is not a numberplate - it's a good ole-fashioned pedestrian slicer
🤣 very true!
Your fault finding is a little out...when you use resistance measurement just a single strand of copper will give you a beep. You are better off using voltage drops in what you are doing as if you have a part broken cable when it goes under load you will see the connection fail
. Hope this helps. Subscribed! Great presentation
Good point! Thanks mate 👍 I've bought a nice new meter now, the red one in the video stopped reading DC voltage completely 🤣
@@AshRowland I use a switch lube and a brass wire brush to clean switch contacts. Lasts longer than wd40 and stops tracking across pins. I always find that wd,40 traps water.
Well you got me this time that’s one bike model I’ve never had 😮
Have you had other Ducati models?
@@AshRowland No not had any Ducati bikes
Hi ash, not sure if any had mentioned this, but the lights on the dash, neutral, turn and oil bulps mite just be put in the wrong socket, the bulps can be switched and giving the wrong light on the dash
Yep, I've discovered this since uploading the video, thanks, and you are the first to mention this 😊
@@AshRowland great to know you figured it out… hope you get the bike working.. i have worked with my 916 that had a lot of problems. Ran very funny used a lot of fuel all the time, it came down to two temp sensors being bad. The air temp sensor and the water temp sensor… only when i got a diag cable to my pc i found these errors
@@denmly I should probably look at some diagnostic software for it to be honest
@@AshRowland there is some free software out there… guzzidiag among others… its also up to witch ecu there is on your bike… p7/p8/1.6m there are a lot of options… mine 916 is a 748 with 916 engine… when i got it it had a p7 ecu from a 888 and a lot of things did not work… rev counter among others… ;-)
Hey ash, glad you bought this duc, I almost pulled the trigger on buying this myself a few weeks back. Even priced up service kit and a full loom lol. Guess you got there first, should be an easy fix, my only concern was deciding which bike to get rid of next season 😂
🤣 sorry mate... if you priced it up then you'll know how reasonably priced the second hand market is for the bits needed 👍
Yeah, readily available too. During my pondering and research, a lot of owners upgrade a known weak point in the rectifier & earth wiring from factory, plenty of info on uk forums regarding it. Good luck, should be a sweet bike once its fixed.
Nice to ride, but styled by Stevie Wonder! I paid £800 for my last running/riding one. That's not wear and tear on the footrest hanger etc, something has stripped the coating off. Regulator failure, and the associated burning is common I'm afraid.
Once I've fixed it I'll have to make sure it doesn't happen again... I wasn's sure of the look of the bike to begin with but it'ss really growing on me
Love watching your videos
Thanks Fred 👍
Well done ash you doing great job
Thanks mate!
Ash-great work through and by process of step by step elimination you find the offender. I really do enjoy your vlogs and appreciate your efforts. I thought the GPX you spotted was a lovely thing too
Thank you Alan! Yes, that GPX was really nice, its still for sale I think, £995
Also congratulations on picking up your first sponsor that's a big milestone in your journey 🙌🙌
Thanks mate! Yea, it's a really cool one too!
Cable ties on fuel pump is to match where the pipes go, someone has marked them in the past.
Smart 👍
Really nice bike 😊😊
When you get it done, I'm sure you will have a great time riding it 😊👍👍😊
Thanks mate, hopefully it won't be a big job
Oh great.
ST's are fabulous bikes.
944 says it's an ST2.
There's also ST4 and ST3 (plus a couple of 'S' models)
The number tells you how many valves the heads are. ST2 = 2 valve head, ST4 = 4 valve head, ST3 = 3 valve head.
It's an L twin btw, not a V twin lol.
Haven't watched the full vid yet (am out visiting) but my first thought, given what you said about the burnt wiring, is that it's Regulator/Rectifier related.
Some of the early ones are I think 3 phase.
Reg/Rec on later bikes is behind a grille under headlight - earliest ST2's had it in another location, that I'm not sure of, but think it's by the engine somewhere.
If it is Reg/rec, and it is in an engine location, you could do with relocating it for better airflow.
I'm really looking forward to this one, as I love ST's and have an ST4 and an ST4S.
Thanks for all that Peter, yea it's an ST2, and i thought it was the regulator too but as you'll see when you get around to watching it that it's probably something else... ah, L-twin, doh 🤣
@@AshRowland
drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0B5V3CDgwlc98enZJekZ2dWxsZUk/0B5V3CDgwlc98QUpxWDk0WFprdDA/0B5V3CDgwlc98THUybGgxbG0xeUk/0B5V3CDgwlc98Y2dmVjh3Y0ZPd0U?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-Vya-c-_f5TcLPao7DNZvmw&sort=13&direction=a
@@AshRowland
Link for manuals etc
Having watched the video, it's a very yucky wiring loom. I can empathise, I had to replace the loom on my Enfield, but that had around 80% less wires, but it still drives you mad, doesn't it?
Looking forward to the next one matey 🙂
Thanks mate, replacement loom ordered 🙂
Looks like it should be an easy fix, they are great bikes you are going to have some fun with that.
Thanks mate, I'm hoping so
Well done mate clever bloke
Thanks mate 👍
Lights on my Triumph bobber are on the left
I think there's a few bikes like this, but this is my first one like it 👍
I would thought a recommend reading the manual first & maybe a Haynes Manual if at all available? Just a thought. Cheers.
Great thought, I've ordered one 🙂
👍🙂
Very Tasty Bike Though Ash! Look forward to further updates!
Great purchase. Was that a ducati of the era that had red and black keys? You need both if it was.
I hope not, I've only got the black key! What's the red key for?
I tackle my motorbike projects in exactly the same way as you ash. Learn as I go and learn from any mistakes 🤷♂️😅. I find it much more fun that way😂. Oh nice looking bike. Can't wait to see it back to it's former glory👍😁
🤣 that's the best way to do it! Much more fun than reading the instructions 🤣
Good luck Ash with the new bike I could spend hours walking round that place you got it from 😂
Haha, I actually did 🤣 I wanted to take home so many of them 🤣
Looks like a fun one! 👍
Yea... My mum's looking for a new car 😉
@@AshRowland 😂
Those black cable ties are just hose markers. (Probably mentioned already).
Ah, no hasn't been mentioned yet, thanks 👍
Very interesting watching you work....love it. Pretty inspiring to crack on with my old blade. Lol
Thanks Matt... yea, get too it before the weather gets really rubbish lol
@@AshRowland I started striping it down last weekend...done a few jobs on it .. new cables got the rear brake working...I need to do a carb sync....never done that .. but can't be that hard lol
That's some serious corrosion. Definitely replace it. To try and fix it just isn't worth the hassle.
Yea, I completely agree, I've got better things to be spending my time on than removing and repinning a 24 pin connector 🤣
Shame you didn't show more of that XJ 650
There was so much to see, I could have spent days there 🤣
Peugeot speed fight and the Honda Vision would definitely be worth taking Home
And yamaha aerox I've just finished rebuild one from the ground up lol
@@markkimber5418 nice! I didn’t see the Areox. Check out my BWs I restored
I was thinking of getting the Speedfight for a mate who had one 20 years ago 🤣 I didn't even clock the Vision!
@@AshRowland do it you know you want to 😆
Good luck mate 😊
Thanks mate 👍
Your wiring plug reminds me of the Jaguar XF BCM 😂. Good investigations Ash. If it's that half loom then job should be a good un once you have replaced it.
🤣 yea, I know what you mean... I've not had to deal with the BCM fault fortunately, touch wood 🤣
Change the belts before you try starting it, they'll be kinked if it's sat for long.
Thanks mate, it's only been off the road for a couple of months 👍
@@AshRowland Change 'em anyway, peace of mind! First thing on every new Duc, fresh belts & tyres!!
The switch gear from a honda transalp 650
Really? Interesting 🤔
Could have told you that was the problem, it’s common. It’s a bear to remove that plug and solder everything together, but it can be done.
Yea, nightmare, that connector is in a bad place
@@AshRowland The most difficult part of the repair is the state of the cables as they are corroded along a considerable length, so they need acid and soda to clean, then neutralise the conductor. The second most difficult part is making the soldered up package sufficiently compact to fit behind the fairing, it requires staggering the cable lengths. The main power cables need a fair bit of heat - modern solder connectors are probably an idea here rather than heat shrink and a straight solder butt joint interlacing the strands of the core.
@@nockianlifter661 I wonder how much a wiring harness front Ducati is 🤔
@@AshRowland If it brings in sufficient subscribers it might be worth it.
11:02 737 actually 000 counts as the first so 001 will be the 2nd
Good point 👍 I'm not sure there is a 000 serial number though lol
@@AshRowland There is on the one in your vid mate at the time stamp or maybe a sec earlier :)
@@Farlig69 ah, well, 1 extra watch available then 😊
@@AshRowland 🤣
Oh Ash!! you don't know what you've done!!! I didn't even know this place existed and I live about 2 miles away in Bedworth, and I needed a winter hack!
This is awesome....I'm brimming with project bike excitement now lol.
P.S. not watched video yet, I was too busy ogling all their bikes lol
🤣 genuinely it's a gold mine in there mate, when you go make sure you mention me 👍
The dictionary definition of "bravery" is: Willing to tackle 90's ducati electrical issues.
🤣
Bit of Ducati bad design allowing water to get in the rubber shroud, even if it drained you would still have evaporation corroding everything, im sure you will find a way to seal that up to stop water ingress
I've ordered a replacement loom, you're right though, I need to make sure it doesn't happen again 😅
If you fill the oil level up to that (timing) window you will have all sorts of fun! 😂
🤣 yea, I know that now 🤣
Is there a crack in the engine just above left of the engine oil sight window...?
I hope not! I'll check Monday when I'm at the unit 👍
@@AshRowland Its at 13.38 on video TOP left of video shot
@@howardwilliams1218 I think and hope that's just a black mark, I'll check tomorrow 👍 thanks
Just emailed link for pdf's Ash.
If not in inbox, check junk and deleted folders.
Cheers.
Amazing, thanks mate 👍
@@AshRowland
You got them ok?
I wouldn't want to be without parts pdf's.
@@peterbee88 yup 👍
@@AshRowland
Cool and the gang
People who think Ducatis are horrible to work on are people who definitely should not work on Ducatis. And better still, not on any bike. Or car 😂. Ducatis are (generally) well engineered and well built. But you better understand a little about engineering (or be able read a manual), use your brain and do your work carefully to a good standard if you want it to work well. Too much to ask from some apparently…
Yea, from what I've experienced so far it's actually been lovely to work on, side fairings came off nice and easily and the wiring doesn't seem overly complicated
Good night Ash and Kate i love watching your TH-cam videos on your TH-cam channel.
I hope that you are all well and that you are enjoying your bike projects I missed you and Kate and your videos on your TH-cam channel.
Please keep safe and warm and please say hello to Kate from Dave Rigby please keep up your good work on your you tube channel
Hi Dave, thank you for your kind words 😊 I'll be sure to tell Kate you say hi 👋
I enjoyed this video. Reminds me of myself!
Thank you mate 😊 👍
Good finding👍
Thanks, hopefully it won't have any hidden issues
Dont think so, as it happend due to water in the connections….. seen it a lot of times on cars.
Just remember to grease the new connector, to prevent it from happening again.
Also check the seals on the connectors.
@@benthillerup 👍
I'm pretty sure I saw a post about this bike by the previous owner on one of the Facebook groups.
Oh really? I'll have to see if I can find that, maybe he'll comment here 🤔
@@AshRowland
I'll try and find the post on Facebook later, and send him a link if I can find it.
Great vid.
Thanks mate 👍
Where's the GPz? Have you just given up on that one & moved on?
Genuinely delayed response to this message because I've been rebuilding the forks 😉
Does each scooter come with a free blunt instrument? Apologies, couldn't help myself.
🤣 maybe
Oi Ash! got the loom yet? hurry up Mate, im interested to see if thats the problem or not
Got the main one, that's the one that's round my neck at the end of the video, the front loom is being delivered today hopefully
@AshRowland I'm only joking mate. I love what you do. I'm just impatient. You are very cluey at solving these problems. Good viewing for the motorcycle enthusiast.
@@rsc68er that's cool mate, I knew you were kidding 😊 replacing the loom feels like a bit of a cheat but I could be there for days trying to repair the existing one 🤣
Nice that will be nice bike to repair😎👍
Hopefully this one won't be too tricky 👍
Join the Ducati forum, some very knowledgeable people who know these bikes on there.
Thanks mate, I'll definitely do that 👍
The quaility of this generation of Ducatis isnt good. If you get one thats been garage furniture, well done. But if its a bit grotty, walk away. The clocks and switchgear dont age well, the wing mirrors are a joke, the frames crack and helicoils will be your best friend.
I think it's been looked after, the wing mirrors are, shall we say, flappy! 🤣
❤didn't you get a blackbird?
Nope... next time maybe 👍
Why not the SRAD???
I'd already bought and paid for the Ducati before I turned up and I only have space for 2 bikes... next time 😉
Clever you 👨🏼✈️
Thanks 😀