Thank you for this repair video. I was about to abandon my ovalsdue to excess friction in the lowest gear. Turns out the clutch was basically frozen. With your instructions, I repaired it in about 10 minutes. Now I know what to look for when it happens again. I appreciate it!
Really really useful videos. Even though they are a few years old they are perfect for us buying used stuff for cheap and maintaining them for the upcoming seasons. Thank you!
I dont know how many times I will said thank you again, your videos are awesome you have helping me so much, and the way you explain with details is just amazing, keep coming back to your videos every time , keep up the good work 🤙🏼🤙🏼
A short "interesting" story. About a month ago I got a brand new ZEE derailleur, my first clutch RD. Right from the start if I moved the cage it felt pretty rough, even when the clutch was disengaged. With the clutch on shifting was pretty bad, even when I backed down the tension. I opened up the clutch cover, without taking apart the clutch everything seemed to be well lubricated. I thought maybe it simply needed some break in time. But after a few long rides it just got worse. When I tried to move the cage there was actually a "hard spot" at the beginning of the rotation, and we are talking about a month old derailleur here. Today I took apart the clutch mechanism and voilá, there was barely any grease inside... Straight from the factory... I cleaned it and lubricated it, now everything is so much more smoother. I thought I'd share this if anyone else was having issues with a brand new product... Thanks a lot for the tutorial.
Mine only worked great for around a month and a half, I just regreased it again... I'll have to get my hands on some of this Shimano grease. Either that's the problem or the surface of the drum got damaged because it had barely any grease on it from the factory and I used it like that for about a month. Even when I regrease the clutch there is a slight "notch" at the beginning of the rotation. It's much much better after the grease but still not super smooth. Shifting is also more rough with the clutch on no matter how much I play with the tension. Also the whole drivetrain is really really noisy when I just pedal and i'm pretty sure shifting is less accurate with the clutch so that makes it even worse.
Hmm... I think when I switch to 11spd it's going to be SRAM. I'm not very satisfied with my 10spd ZEE and XT setup, and the funny thing is I don't even use it offroad. :)
Agreed. Excellent video, clear instructions and best of all, I loved the close-up and in-focus videograpjy. Probably had auto focus turned off. Well done!
I am very hard of hearing in my old age and my wife has been complaining about a squeak that I can't hear+ I changed her cables and lubed her shifters and it still feels way to hard to push. Saw this 4 year old video and the lightbulb came on. Dayum, man- thanks!!
great freekin video! Thank You! I'm just getting back into the MTB world after 8+ years away and ALL the new tech is completely new from what i am experienced with... these videos are awesome and I learned exactly whats happening down there any more lol. As much as i understqaqnd and am totally comfortable working on most MTB tech pre 2010 the last 8+ years saw a ton of new tech become common any more... I was lost and now i'm found ;-) Much appreciated.
Thank you very much for this promised video. Thanks to you i've just ordered myself everything for a new 1x10 drivetrain! Also how often would you suggest servicing the clutch? or would you just check it every few weeks? This has to be one of the best mtb maintenance channels i've come across by the way haha, keep up the good content!
I use Loctite 243 on the bolts, I recommend you do the same, so they don't unthread,I also applied grease on the gasket area, and the rest of the clutch system to avoid rust(which will happen if you don't do it),I ride in harsh conditions, and they salt the road like crazy here. Screwing in all of the screws little by little is a good idea, to avoid the gasket getting in the wrong place. but you video was well done.
i run saint m820 rear d's on all my bikes. when i service the flutch i clean the entire rear d with brake cleaner to remove everything. then i relube it with fox 20wt suspension lube do to it having all the anti friction modifiers. this has worked fantastic for me for a long time. shifting smooth and when locked its totaly silent and shifts great with no play.
@LoveMTB Good video, nice and simple yet comprehensive, just as a side note I found that the clutch spring had to be opened manually with a screwdriver after testing the tension adjustments to allow the tension mechanism and spring to sit back flush on its seat. The cover has 3 pips inside designed to keep the mechanism from moving off the cam peg and if it's not on its seat it will give the dreaded creak.
Great Explanation, i already know how clutch mechanism work by reading it on Shimano website but very refreshing to see those thing work.... However in my country they keep calling clutch mechanism as lock, it makes sense
Good video. I am using an oval cog up front & my M8000 derailleur has really slowed up on the down shifting & the chain is coming off. Thanks for the video
Are you still keeping the oval ring despite the need of more frequent clutch service intervals ? Was thinking of getting an oval but not sure anymore. Also have the M8000 mech on my bike.
Actually, in theory the oval chainring should make no difference to the rate of clutch wear. If you drop a line through the centre of an oval chainring at any point of its 360 degree rotation, you will always get the same amount of teeth on both sides of that line, so chain tension does not change as an oval chainring rotates. It's a myth!
is there any solution for play on the initial "stroke" when the clutch is engaged? do you know which part might need replacing? a couple of mine have about 1cm of movement before the clutch actually engages even after servicing them
@@LoveMTB Of course I use the correct grease, I subscribe to your channel! 😎 Part number for the tensioner seems to be: Y3GF98040 .... now if only i could find it in stock
i just tore it all down and cleaned it all out. then regreased with some very tacy bearing grease. works much better now. also torq'd to 4.5. thanks for the awsome vid bruh. love ur shit. drillin down lol
Thanks, the squeeking (or clicking was what I was getting) was driving me nuts, changed the BB before realising the problem. Hub grease on order. Thanks again.
How often do you need to service the clutch? I have an XT 11 speed for 2 years and haven't serviced it yet. But I can't feel anything wrong with it. Still shifts fine.
ok so that grease is very watter so that means more service intervals. i do a full break down of my bike every 6 months. i found the m820 rear d to go dry pretty fast. i ended up using a pretty thick bearing grease that lasted throughout my service interval. have not had any issues so far and its on a 10 speed 11x36 setup. the biggest issues i have seen so far are the headset bearings. i dont know how but huge amounts of debris gets in there. im always shocked at the amount of grime in the headset. its allways this thick black stuff that looks like tar.
On the new brake kit the olive is always pre-installed? For Shimano road 105di2 when you buy a new kit shifter+caliper+hose the olive is pre-installed so there's just to install the pin in hose and the connexion nut. It's the same for Shimano MTB brake? Also for non series like MT200? Best regards.
Hi, Thanks for the video. When I wanted to remove the 3 screws first, I damaged one. The 2 mm tool is no more usable. Do you know how I can remove it now ? Thanks.
I found that on my fairly new XT 12 speed derailleur, the clutch "barrel" (the thing you're supposed to put grease on the outside of) is seized onto the post (main derailleur pivot). The post itself is not shiny smooth silver as in this video, but very rough feeling, pitted and discolored. And the clutch "barrel" would rotate in both directions (stuck to the post it's sitting on) when in use, when it's only supposed to move one way. I'm wondering if this unusual premature wear is due to using an oval chainring.
Is this what you do when the clutch is on and it doesn’t keep chain tension as I shift down to the harder gears??? My XT 12 speed is fairly new and already stuck
hi, I have had a few problems with the xtr m9000 rear mech because after about a 1000 miles the cage wouldn't go back into its normal position. so if you went down the cassette the cage would stay stuck. Have you had this problem? And would doing this service make a difference? cheers
I did a bike tour from Montana to Arizona with a 1x10 using a Zee rear derailleur and a round 32t up front, I'm sold on the 1x setups. I'm building a Surly ECR 1x11 and I'm planning an around the world ride; would you suggest staying from the oval because of this issue? I'll be riding thousands of miles over the next 4-5 years.
LoveMTB it was the uphills, the mountains, where I wished for help! So, if it's as simple as keeping mechanical disc brakes adjusted, I'm sold! I'll be sure I study this video. Thanks for the reply!
Nice guide m8 ^^ Looks fairly straight forward... Although, I'm sure I'd find a way to brake it o_0 (when the time comes). Q: Do SRAM clutch mechs need similar servicing?
Thanks for the great instruction video! Do they recomend using 'Internal Hub Grease" because it is light or because it is thick? Anyway, I am wondering if the Shimano's regular (green-colored) grease would work also?
Sure, I've just applied the grease to the clutch of my M786 that was also quite notchy. So far so good, the movement is smooth at this point. I'll come back later with long-term results.
Hi, just remembered about this video. So, I've greased the clutch on my M786 (XT) read derallieur with the grean grease almost immediately after this video was uploaded. As for the current moment it (clutch & grease) holds well. Only thing that is noticeable: it becomes "notchy" after a long time w/o movement (however, the notchiness disappears right away when the the pulleys' cage is moved). My setup is 3x10 (thus not oval). So I should say that Shimano regular green grease does the job fine. Thanks for the instruction video again, I helped a lot!
Coming back after a year-long usage of a the Shimano bearing grease (the green one) applied single time. At this point I can say that the grease has completely worn out and the clutch feels etchy throughout all of its movement range. I've finally got my hands on the Shimano Internal Hub Grease, so going to apply this one today and report back later :)
You have awesome videos! Thank you for all your help. You're explanations are spot on. I have the exact same problem as you - I LOVE my oval chain ring and it seems to have buggered up my XT's clutch. I had some difficulty getting the stabilizer unit off but with the help of two screwdrivers (one on each side) I was able to get it to slide out. My problem now is that I can not get the stabilizer unit back on. You seemed to just slide it on. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to get it to slide in? I may just buy a new one but would prefer to know how to do the maintenance on it since I'm sticking with my oval chain ring as well. Thanks in advance for all advice! +Kevin
I have the same problem. Even with a lot of patience and finesse I couldn't get it back on. I just bought a new one as I would like to ride my bike this weekend. But do you have any tips?
Like Kevin, It just doesn' go back in. (Xtr) I noticed the shaft has a sharp 90 degree edge, so the litle rollers wil bump in to top end . I did now remove the shaft, and going to make the edge a litle conical. So the rollers are guided outwards over the shaft . ( i also noticed that there is a lot of dirt on the other side of the shaft, the housing where the big spring is. I think the dirt comes in from there so i would recommand to clean this part to )
hey mate, where did you find that 'documentation' from Shimano on how to work on the der? i can't find it anywhere, though i'm not sure i need it now. thanks for the video.
did it yesterday. was easy but getting the clutch mechanism back on was a bear. put the screw driver tip back in the top of the spring and that let it go on. bit of trial and error. the der. is just under a yr old and the clutch was still working just fine, but the grease was gone. just a bit of preventative on my part.
Does anyone know exactly, how much you can adjust the clutch? Is It like fully adjustable tension or is there any limits which to stop? I believe it is possible to keep it very loose but if I want to tighten the clutch more, how tight I can put it? As tight as long as it moves smoothly? Thanks for the video, just ordered my first oval chainring so this comes in handy at near future I believe!
The clutch lever on my RD-M8000 doesn`t snap in properly. Is it possible to replace it (including the silver "pin" inside the housing which transfers the pressure from the outside lever)? I think the angle / position of that pin is a bit off so it doesnt snap in properly.
I opened it and compared it to a friends RD-M8000. On mine the metal pin that turns the whole mechanism ( www.bilder-upload.eu/show.php?file=a8f750-1527308835.jpg ) seems to be a bit "twisted". When the clutch is in same position (for example full open) the metal pin doesnt have the same angle. Its a bit off. So when closing the clutch on my RD-M8000 the "wider part" (as you call it in the video) doenst fully move in the opening. I think i have to either have to replace the metal pin or try to bend / twist it a bit.
Anyone find a good alternative to the shimano interhub grease.? I have tried Phil wood, super lube teflon, pedros syn grease, red devil, and motomaster bearing grease. All of them didint work good what so ever.
Maybe a thinner layer will do? Won't last much for sure though. You put some fairly generous amount of that grease, so maybe when using a thicker grease you have to put less, that I'm no specialist on this stuff, but that's all that occurs to me.
Deartist 7 whatever the amount, the excess is squeezed away when you tighten it. you have probably seen the grooves on the inner clutch mech - this is presumably the place to "store" grease for the time interval between service
I have some Zefal Grease, and some non-brand Lithium based grease at home. Let's just say i use it. If it work, i will report back to you. But if it don't work, should i use degreaser or what to clean the grease i just put in ?
Hello sir, it's been a while =)) Here's some updated: I've tried a lot of different grease and here's the result: Zefal grease: failed; lower viscosity version of Zefal grease: failed; Wolf grease (from Aliexpress): failed; Lithium based grease: My lbs told me not to use it, they said it gonna ruin all the moving parts (don't know why) so i didn't use it; and the last one is the Slick Honey viscosity-liked grease which is for high temp moving part (for wheel bearings, disc brakes,...): Almost success =)) Like 80% compared to the original grease. So here's my conclusion (probably wrong) is any high temp grease will make the job done :)) The Shimano Nexus grease is high temp grease too.
Actually, i bought the zefal and wolf grease for like 2 years ago, so i just use what i have :)) The Slick Honey viscosity-liked grease, i just ask for my lbs to borrow some. By the way, i live in Vietnam, so the Nexus type of grease is super rare in my country (i ask everybody i know for about 1 month and i still don't have it), like you have to order it from other place in order to get it, which i can't do. Probably when i older. Anyway thanks :)
How do we know it's time to service it WITHOUT taking off the cover ? =)) ( Cuz taking the srew out time by time will make it and the derailleur itself worn out at the " hole you get the srew in" ( sorry for bad description)
Is it normal that if I have the clutch engaged the shifting going up the cassette is hard? And it doesn't shift well if the clutch is engaged. Hope someone can answer :)
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I keep coming back for service advice. Awesome job man! You, Park Tool and Art’s Cyclery are the web’s best bike tech video contributors.
Thank you for this repair video. I was about to abandon my ovalsdue to excess friction in the lowest gear. Turns out the clutch was basically frozen. With your instructions, I repaired it in about 10 minutes. Now I know what to look for when it happens again. I appreciate it!
Very nice. In depth maintenance video and removes fear of screwing something up. Liberating even! Thank you.
Really really useful videos. Even though they are a few years old they are perfect for us buying used stuff for cheap and maintaining them for the upcoming seasons. Thank you!
@@LoveMTB Perfect. So I would need a bit of a heavier grease? Doubt that the local shop has the exact one needed.
Many thanks to you for taking the time to video and explain how to service these mysterious clutch mechanisms! much appreciated.
I dont know how many times I will said thank you again, your videos are awesome you have helping me so much, and the way you explain with details is just amazing, keep coming back to your videos every time , keep up the good work 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Great video! Clear instruction and exceptional photography. Thanks!
A short "interesting" story.
About a month ago I got a brand new ZEE derailleur, my first clutch RD. Right from the start if I moved the cage it felt pretty rough, even when the clutch was disengaged. With the clutch on shifting was pretty bad, even when I backed down the tension. I opened up the clutch cover, without taking apart the clutch everything seemed to be well lubricated.
I thought maybe it simply needed some break in time. But after a few long rides it just got worse. When I tried to move the cage there was actually a "hard spot" at the beginning of the rotation, and we are talking about a month old derailleur here.
Today I took apart the clutch mechanism and voilá, there was barely any grease inside... Straight from the factory...
I cleaned it and lubricated it, now everything is so much more smoother.
I thought I'd share this if anyone else was having issues with a brand new product...
Thanks a lot for the tutorial.
i have the same problem on my slx m7000! after just 1 ride with my ab oval it started
squeaking...will regrease it tommorow :(
Mine only worked great for around a month and a half, I just regreased it again... I'll have to get my hands on some of this Shimano grease. Either that's the problem or the surface of the drum got damaged because it had barely any grease on it from the factory and I used it like that for about a month.
Even when I regrease the clutch there is a slight "notch" at the beginning of the rotation. It's much much better after the grease but still not super smooth. Shifting is also more rough with the clutch on no matter how much I play with the tension.
Also the whole drivetrain is really really noisy when I just pedal and i'm pretty sure shifting is less accurate with the clutch so that makes it even worse.
Do you have problems with Sram clutches too?
Hmm... I think when I switch to 11spd it's going to be SRAM. I'm not very satisfied with my 10spd ZEE and XT setup, and the funny thing is I don't even use it offroad. :)
What kind of grease did you use, dose it have to be the specific grease that shimano specifies or cam it just be amy kind
Thank you for taking the time to make this video
Thank you for this (and other videos). I'm a DIY'er and you have helped me with all the MTB instruction and reviews. A Kona rider too!
Agreed. Excellent video, clear instructions and best of all, I loved the close-up and in-focus videograpjy. Probably had auto focus turned off. Well done!
My SLX has around 2300 miles and now just started to make some grinding noises...gonna open it in a min,Another great video,thanks a lot!
Thanks for the video. I used polylube 1000 and it worked great
I am very hard of hearing in my old age and my wife has been complaining about a squeak that I can't hear+ I changed her cables and lubed her shifters and it still feels way to hard to push. Saw this 4 year old video and the lightbulb came on. Dayum, man- thanks!!
great freekin video! Thank You!
I'm just getting back into the MTB world after 8+ years away and ALL the new tech is completely new from what i am experienced with... these videos are awesome and I learned exactly whats happening down there any more lol. As much as i understqaqnd and am totally comfortable working on most MTB tech pre 2010 the last 8+ years saw a ton of new tech become common any more...
I was lost and now i'm found ;-)
Much appreciated.
Thank you very much for this promised video. Thanks to you i've just ordered myself everything for a new 1x10 drivetrain! Also how often would you suggest servicing the clutch? or would you just check it every few weeks?
This has to be one of the best mtb maintenance channels i've come across by the way haha, keep up the good content!
I use Loctite 243 on the bolts, I recommend you do the same, so they don't unthread,I also applied grease on the gasket area, and the rest of the clutch system to avoid rust(which will happen if you don't do it),I ride in harsh conditions, and they salt the road like crazy here.
Screwing in all of the screws little by little is a good idea, to avoid the gasket getting in the wrong place.
but you video was well done.
This video was excellent, thank you for taking the time to make it. It will definitely help me service my bike.
i run saint m820 rear d's on all my bikes. when i service the flutch i clean the entire rear d with brake cleaner to remove everything. then i relube it with fox 20wt suspension lube do to it having all the anti friction modifiers.
this has worked fantastic for me for a long time. shifting smooth and when locked its totaly silent and shifts great with no play.
nope, totaly clean it and re grease
the oil did not work. actually made it worse. it displaced super fast and wrong for the application. my bad.
This video help me a lot, Thanks! My m8000 is like new again!
@LoveMTB Good video, nice and simple yet comprehensive, just as a side note I found that the clutch spring had to be opened manually with a screwdriver after testing the tension adjustments to allow the tension mechanism and spring to sit back flush on its seat. The cover has 3 pips inside designed to keep the mechanism from moving off the cam peg and if it's not on its seat it will give the dreaded creak.
Great Video. i had no idea there was a clutch in there, and that it needed to be maintained. Thanks
So simple but yet so useful thanks mate!
I bought a used XT derailleur with a one up cage and I thought the cage was causing this problem. Thanks for the help I'll do this so thank you. Joel
Wow, great job on this! Thank you
Great Explanation, i already know how clutch mechanism work by reading it on Shimano website but very refreshing to see those thing work.... However in my country they keep calling clutch mechanism as lock, it makes sense
Great video. Found after I fixed it without instructions :)
Hi man I have the XT & the clutch lever does not stay engaged. Everything is new & clean inside. Can I tighten the grey lever? Thanks
Good stuff! Thanx. Looks like lithium grease. A little thick and sticky
Clear and very informative thank you
Super helpful. Thanks!
Great vid
Good video.
I am using an oval cog up front & my M8000 derailleur has really slowed up on the down shifting & the chain is coming off.
Thanks for the video
Excellent. Just what I needed.
Awesome video man. Very well explained. Will this service work with the M820-SS?
Great video, really helpful
Are you still keeping the oval ring despite the need of more frequent clutch service intervals ? Was thinking of getting an oval but not sure anymore. Also have the M8000 mech on my bike.
Actually, in theory the oval chainring should make no difference to the rate of clutch wear. If you drop a line through the centre of an oval chainring at any point of its 360 degree rotation, you will always get the same amount of teeth on both sides of that line, so chain tension does not change as an oval chainring rotates. It's a myth!
thank you brother
installed a m820 ss on a fs xc bike... nutn but love. oh and i always put peanut butter on my chains.
Really nice and well explained!
Great job mate very informative video. Much respect 👍
Perfect explination
Brilliant service how to do it well done 👍 buddy mine is very dry make lot noise on my yeti sb5c I follow steps thank you
Good job!
FANTASTIC!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
is there any solution for play on the initial "stroke" when the clutch is engaged? do you know which part might need replacing?
a couple of mine have about 1cm of movement before the clutch actually engages even after servicing them
@@LoveMTB Of course I use the correct grease, I subscribe to your channel! 😎
Part number for the tensioner seems to be:
Y3GF98040 .... now if only i could find it in stock
Good job . Thanks.
i just tore it all down and cleaned it all out. then regreased with some very tacy bearing grease. works much better now. also torq'd to 4.5.
thanks for the awsome vid bruh. love ur shit. drillin down lol
Thank you very much 👍
Thank you for this, well explained 👍👍👍
Thank you so much !!
Thank you very, very much for this video!!
Good vid 👍🏼
Nice Job! Good Video
Thanks, the squeeking (or clicking was what I was getting) was driving me nuts, changed the BB before realising the problem. Hub grease on order. Thanks again.
How often do you need to service the clutch? I have an XT 11 speed for 2 years and haven't serviced it yet. But I can't feel anything wrong with it. Still shifts fine.
@@LoveMTB great thank you
I notice that in most of xt rd's, even though you use round chainring, the squeaky noise will appear
Excellent video, thanks.
Very helpful. Thank you very much.
Are you recommending the Internal hub grease you use in the video or the Shadow RD+ grease in the description?
GREAT. RESPECT.
ok so that grease is very watter so that means more service intervals. i do a full break down of my bike every 6 months. i found the m820 rear d to go dry pretty fast. i ended up using a pretty thick bearing grease that lasted throughout my service interval. have not had any issues so far and its on a 10 speed 11x36 setup. the biggest issues i have seen so far are the headset bearings. i dont know how but huge amounts of debris gets in there. im always shocked at the amount of grime in the headset. its allways this thick black stuff that looks like tar.
On the new brake kit the olive is always pre-installed?
For Shimano road 105di2 when you buy a new kit shifter+caliper+hose the olive is pre-installed so there's just to install the pin in hose and the connexion nut. It's the same for Shimano MTB brake? Also for non series like MT200?
Best regards.
Yes I have that here - th-cam.com/video/dbmy_7LOySk/w-d-xo.html
really good.
Hi,
Thanks for the video.
When I wanted to remove the 3 screws first, I damaged one. The 2 mm tool is no more usable. Do you know how I can remove it now ?
Thanks.
Nice vid, I have a shimano rd and im using a 26T oval, how long does it need to re-grease the rd? and when to make a maintenance?
Hey, I was wondering if you still use the oval chainrings? Also this would eventually happen with a round chainring, right?
I busted my clutch lever right off. This helps, Thanks
Island Aerial I did the same thing. Trying to engage manually. Did you replace the lever? Any problems now?
@@andrewegan5966 Yeah, replaced the lever. Super simple was all good till the bike got stolen...
I found that on my fairly new XT 12 speed derailleur, the clutch "barrel" (the thing you're supposed to put grease on the outside of) is seized onto the post (main derailleur pivot). The post itself is not shiny smooth silver as in this video, but very rough feeling, pitted and discolored. And the clutch "barrel" would rotate in both directions (stuck to the post it's sitting on) when in use, when it's only supposed to move one way.
I'm wondering if this unusual premature wear is due to using an oval chainring.
Thanks. Very usefull.
Is this what you do when the clutch is on and it doesn’t keep chain tension as I shift down to the harder gears??? My XT 12 speed is fairly new and already stuck
hi, I have had a few problems with the xtr m9000 rear mech because after about a 1000 miles the cage wouldn't go back into its normal position. so if you went down the cassette the cage would stay stuck.
Have you had this problem? And would doing this service make a difference?
cheers
Would Teflon grease be ok?
Can i use ordinary grase for this clutch ?
perfect
that was indeed relatively easy
LoveMTB can you disassemble Sram clutch and show us why it is doing better for longer? Thanks!
what are ur thoughts on the sram nx drive train?
what if your clutch doesn't activated? first couple of bumps it turns it self off?
11 speed derailleur on 10 speed cassette? It work good?
Can i use an ordinary grease?
I did a bike tour from Montana to Arizona with a 1x10 using a Zee rear derailleur and a round 32t up front, I'm sold on the 1x setups. I'm building a Surly ECR 1x11 and I'm planning an around the world ride; would you suggest staying from the oval because of this issue? I'll be riding thousands of miles over the next 4-5 years.
LoveMTB it was the uphills, the mountains, where I wished for help! So, if it's as simple as keeping mechanical disc brakes adjusted, I'm sold! I'll be sure I study this video. Thanks for the reply!
Nice guide m8 ^^
Looks fairly straight forward...
Although, I'm sure I'd find a way to brake it o_0 (when the time comes).
Q: Do SRAM clutch mechs need similar servicing?
King Rat watch his previous video on it. Looks like Sram clutches fare better
DrDrew1979 By servicing, I meant 'at all', not similar time frame ;-)
King Rat he states he was nit servicing Sram at all
DrDrew1979 ...ever!? What I was getting at, or - as part of a thorough/regular maintenance plan ;-P
Thanks for the great instruction video! Do they recomend using 'Internal Hub Grease" because it is light or because it is thick? Anyway, I am wondering if the Shimano's regular (green-colored) grease would work also?
Sure, I've just applied the grease to the clutch of my M786 that was also quite notchy. So far so good, the movement is smooth at this point. I'll come back later with long-term results.
Hi, just remembered about this video. So, I've greased the clutch on my M786 (XT) read derallieur with the grean grease almost immediately after this video was uploaded. As for the current moment it (clutch & grease) holds well. Only thing that is noticeable: it becomes "notchy" after a long time w/o movement (however, the notchiness disappears right away when the the pulleys' cage is moved). My setup is 3x10 (thus not oval). So I should say that Shimano regular green grease does the job fine.
Thanks for the instruction video again, I helped a lot!
Coming back after a year-long usage of a the Shimano bearing grease (the green one) applied single time. At this point I can say that the grease has completely worn out and the clutch feels etchy throughout all of its movement range. I've finally got my hands on the Shimano Internal Hub Grease, so going to apply this one today and report back later :)
@@KennyMinigun thanks for the update
Does anyone know where you can purchase screws for the outside cover? I stripped one of the 3 screws when my allen wrench slipped.
You have awesome videos! Thank you for all your help. You're explanations are spot on.
I have the exact same problem as you - I LOVE my oval chain ring and it seems to have buggered up my XT's clutch. I had some difficulty getting the stabilizer unit off but with the help of two screwdrivers (one on each side) I was able to get it to slide out. My problem now is that I can not get the stabilizer unit back on. You seemed to just slide it on. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to get it to slide in? I may just buy a new one but would prefer to know how to do the maintenance on it since I'm sticking with my oval chain ring as well.
Thanks in advance for all advice! +Kevin
I have the same problem. Even with a lot of patience and finesse I couldn't get it back on. I just bought a new one as I would like to ride my bike this weekend. But do you have any tips?
Like Kevin, It just doesn' go back in. (Xtr) I noticed the shaft has a sharp 90 degree edge, so the litle rollers wil bump in to top end . I did now remove the shaft, and going to make the edge a litle conical. So the rollers are guided outwards over the shaft . ( i also noticed that there is a lot of dirt on the other side of the shaft, the housing where the big spring is. I think the dirt comes in from there so i would recommand to clean this part to )
hey mate, where did you find that 'documentation' from Shimano on how to work on the der? i can't find it anywhere, though i'm not sure i need it now. thanks for the video.
did it yesterday. was easy but getting the clutch mechanism back on was a bear. put the screw driver tip back in the top of the spring and that let it go on. bit of trial and error. the der. is just under a yr old and the clutch was still working just fine, but the grease was gone. just a bit of preventative on my part.
Does anyone know exactly, how much you can adjust the clutch? Is It like fully adjustable tension or is there any limits which to stop? I believe it is possible to keep it very loose but if I want to tighten the clutch more, how tight I can put it? As tight as long as it moves smoothly?
Thanks for the video, just ordered my first oval chainring so this comes in handy at near future I believe!
@@LoveMTB nothing special, just curious of how this can be adjusted. Just did mine and this video was very helpful, thank you sir.
nice one
The clutch lever on my RD-M8000 doesn`t snap in properly. Is it possible to replace it (including the silver "pin" inside the housing which transfers the pressure from the outside lever)? I think the angle / position of that pin is a bit off so it doesnt snap in properly.
I opened it and compared it to a friends RD-M8000. On mine the metal pin that turns the whole mechanism ( www.bilder-upload.eu/show.php?file=a8f750-1527308835.jpg ) seems to be a bit "twisted". When the clutch is in same position (for example full open) the metal pin doesnt have the same angle. Its a bit off. So when closing the clutch on my RD-M8000 the "wider part" (as you call it in the video) doenst fully move in the opening. I think i have to either have to replace the metal pin or try to bend / twist it a bit.
Anyone find a good alternative to the shimano interhub grease.? I have tried Phil wood, super lube teflon, pedros syn grease, red devil, and motomaster bearing grease. All of them didint work good what so ever.
What happened exactly with the slick honey grease? Too thick?
Some of us would rather try what's already on hand.
Maybe a thinner layer will do? Won't last much for sure though. You put some fairly generous amount of that grease, so maybe when using a thicker grease you have to put less, that I'm no specialist on this stuff, but that's all that occurs to me.
Deartist 7 whatever the amount, the excess is squeezed away when you tighten it. you have probably seen the grooves on the inner clutch mech - this is presumably the place to "store" grease for the time interval between service
Never have this issues with Sram
Just picked up a S-Works with the M9k and it's junk!
Do you know what other grease you can use, except for the Shimano Internal Hub Grease and the Dumonde Tech Freehub Grease in the video ?
I have some Zefal Grease, and some non-brand Lithium based grease at home. Let's just say i use it. If it work, i will report back to you. But if it don't work, should i use degreaser or what to clean the grease i just put in ?
I only put some thin oil in the center part. But thanks for the advice :)
Hello sir, it's been a while =)) Here's some updated: I've tried a lot of different grease and here's the result: Zefal grease: failed; lower viscosity version of Zefal grease: failed; Wolf grease (from Aliexpress): failed; Lithium based grease: My lbs told me not to use it, they said it gonna ruin all the moving parts (don't know why) so i didn't use it; and the last one is the Slick Honey viscosity-liked grease which is for high temp moving part (for wheel bearings, disc brakes,...): Almost success =)) Like 80% compared to the original grease. So here's my conclusion (probably wrong) is any high temp grease will make the job done :)) The Shimano Nexus grease is high temp grease too.
Actually, i bought the zefal and wolf grease for like 2 years ago, so i just use what i have :)) The Slick Honey viscosity-liked grease, i just ask for my lbs to borrow some. By the way, i live in Vietnam, so the Nexus type of grease is super rare in my country (i ask everybody i know for about 1 month and i still don't have it), like you have to order it from other place in order to get it, which i can't do. Probably when i older. Anyway thanks :)
DT special grease for the DT hubs would be ok ?? have some already so wondering if this would be OK..
Did you try this? I was thinking of doing the same.
@@matta6301 Been good with DT star ratchet hub grease so far
So how long should we maintain it again ?
Dũng Lê Văn Take off the cover time to time if the grease is discolored or no grease then it's time....
How do we know it's time to service it WITHOUT taking off the cover ? =)) ( Cuz taking the srew out time by time will make it and the derailleur itself worn out at the " hole you get the srew in" ( sorry for bad description)
Just put atf oil all done
Is it normal that if I have the clutch engaged the shifting going up the cassette is hard? And it doesn't shift well if the clutch is engaged. Hope someone can answer :)
Btw, I'm using a M7000 rear mech
Oval chainring kills the clutch..
Great video! Clear instruction and exceptional photography. Thanks
Very helpful, thank you!