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⭐Essential Derailleur SERVICE for Shimano CLUTCH⭐ 12, 11, 10 speed - XTR, XT, SLX, Deore Maintenance
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- ESSENTIAL clutch #service for #Shimano #derailleur, all that use a CLUTCH.
12 speed, 11s, 10s Shadow Plus, XTR, XT, SLX, Deore, all require this maintenance procedure. Complete how-to, comparison, testing.
➡️Click here to subscribe: - bit.ly/37tescF
⭐For parts and tools please consider using the links below, they help me fund the channel. And the crew at Worldwide Cyclery provide a discount for signing up to their newsletter. Thank you!
Shimano Grease for Shadow RD+ Rear Derailleur - bit.ly/2u4n2yL
Shimano Clutch for XTR, XT, SLX - bit.ly/34sTCKB
Shimano MTB Optislick Derailleur Cable Set - bit.ly/37G5pXo
Shimano MTB Stainless Derailleur Cable and Housing Set - bit.ly/37qcgkb
Jagwire MTB Housing and Cable - bit.ly/32Xf7lu
Shimano SP41 Cable Housing - bit.ly/2H7YHhj
Shimano SP41 Shift Cable Grease - bit.ly/2LKLk6A
Shimano XT SL-M8100-L Clamp-Band Shifter - bit.ly/2K6JNH9
Shimano XT RD-M8100-SGS Derailleur for 1x - 12-Speed - bit.ly/2NUZEcZ
Shimano XT CN-M8100 Chain - 12-Speed - bit.ly/2PZJ7qL
Shimano XT CS-M8100 Cassette 10-51t 12-Speed - bit.ly/2M1yD8s
Shimano SLX M7100 SGS 12 Speed Derailleur - bit.ly/2tB1sRR
Shimano XTR M9100 SGS Long-Cage Derailleur - bit.ly/2QBqV7S
Park Tool SD-SET Shop Screwdriver Set 4 Piece - bit.ly/2Sz8Qam
Park Tool PH-1.2 P-Handle Hex Set - bit.ly/2QVpKgE
Topeak Nano Torqbar X Mini TORQUE Wrench - bit.ly/3nZ0sxN
Park Tool AWS-10 Metric Folding Hex Wrench Set - bit.ly/2QUqa6S
Park Tool AWS-1 Y Hex Wrench: 4, 5, 6mm - bit.ly/2pwCaiA
Park Tool Polylube 1000 Grease - bit.ly/2qy34qo
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⌚Chapters
00:00 Intro
My channel is not sponsored. All opinions are my own, 100% honest. Some of the links in this description are affiliate links. I'll earn a small commission if you make a purchase and it's no additional cost to you, I appreciate your support!
Excellent presentation. Clearly explained, photography spot on, and instructions easy to follow. Great job, thank you for making the video!👍👍
You're welcome
Best clutch video on the internet. Well scripted and superb camera work and editing.
I agree with bridg3burn3r, this is the most concise and no BS explanation of this clutch maintenance procedure out there. You say what you need to say without a lot of side commentary. Thumbs up my man !!!!
Useful?!?!?! That's bloody priceless. Thank you!
Great video! Thank you. Worked a treat and really easy to follow.
Damn right. Was close to order a New derailleur before i fell on this vid
OMG! Thank you SO MUCH for posting this! I've had my bike in the shop 3 different times due to the rear derailleur not shifting correctly. Each time they've said they're not sure what's wrong with it, and each time after about 3 or 4 rides, it started having issues again. I finally noticed that it shifted perfectly with the clutch disengaged. That lead me to finding this video. Followed it, and now the derailleur is shifting perfectly with the clutch engaged!
Yup maintenance that all Shimano derailleur need. Enjoy the butter smooth shifting!
This is the best maintenance vid I’ve seen, I was told my derailleur was done as the clutch isn’t serviceable, pulled down it was full of dry shitty grease at 1 year old. Thanks mate it’s now good as new!
Just re-greased my clutch using this video today and it was super easy thanks so much! Fairly new Deore XT 12sp (less than 1 yr old) and was practically bone dry….word to the wise, if you are having any issues with clutch, even if new, a re-grease will likely solve your issues.
Also, I used the dumonde free hub grease as I couldn’t find shimano grease in stock anywhere, worked like a charm - FYI!
If this did not solve your problem with sticky clutch, you might have to go a little deeper. Try removing the cage, cleaning the spring and a pin that holds the cage. There are pretty good instructions in the official Shimano manual.
It seemed to have solved the issue for me. I was really suprised to see some rust on the spring and a lot of dirt there too... and my bike is only 2,5 month old, so it seems the mechanism is poorly sealed or I was just unlucky, idk.
Huge thanks for the video! It really helped me with the dissasebly even though it was not enough to solve my issue. Great explanation and camera work. Brilliant!!
This is a priceless piece of information. Just bought a new Trek Roscoe which has a clutch derailleur. The shifting was bad after a week's worth of muddy riding. I had dirt in the clutch. Now it's all good as new without a expensive trip to the bike shop. Thanks for this.
Thanks for that prefect video! It took me a while to find out, that the clutch is the reason for the bad performance of my chain! I spend hours to find a solution. With this video, it took me 15 minutes and it works like a new one! Cheers!
Same on 10spd deore systems as well. I'm also impressed with your concise tutorial. Thank you. I did know about my clutch (I read owners manuals on everything before I operate anything) and have maintenanced it regularly but you did reassure me that I am doing it right. You made a subscriber out of me. Ride on. 🙋
Super helpful! My XT 12 speed needed this maintenance after less than 100 miles. It's been a dry dusty 100 miles and a portion of it was at Cuyuna old mining facility full of red fine dust. Thanks again for the video guide. Finding the grease will be a chore I'm sure.
Great video! I have tried a couple of different types of grease on the Shimano derailleur clutches. Park polylube 1000 worked well and seemed to last quite a while and Mobil 1 synthetic grease worked for a while but didn't seem as smooth or last as long as the Park grease.
This video makes me proud to be a Shimano user
I had a problem with my clutch. Took it apart it didn't work. After an hour of trying to get it right. I packed it out with greece. Works like a treat now. My clutch is now heavier but shifts better. No more sticky clutch and dragging my drive chain on the ground as I pedal. I wish I found this video sooner.
I used mucoff grease on it 6 month ago and its still good!
Was very notchy before.
A good alternative grease is Dupont Molykote DX paste. It's readily available online since it's used in all kinds of devices.(think vending machines, printers, kitchenware, etc) It's designed specifically for high load sliding metal surfaces like in our Shimano clutches, it's resistant to water, and is anti-corrosive. You can get a 20g tube that will last 100 derailleurs for around $15USD.
Excellent video. I can confirm the Park Tool 1000 grease works excellent as the original Shimano grease near impossible to find. Finishline Ceramic Grease DOES NOT WORK
Purchased a new XT 10 speed rear derailleur for abt. 30EUR on ebay - when it arrived, thought the clutch to be some sort of witch trickery technology (had never seen one before). However, seeing this video provided the elementary knowledge that it's much simpler than imagined - and can probably be serviced even without removal of derailleur from the bike. Also, just a week ago purchased an SLX 11 speed as we're building an 11x2 for my kid - and saw the listing in German ebay say something along the lines of "the clutch has been adjusted by a bike shop". What a lame seller marketing when these are obviously so easy to deal with. Thanks - and greetings from Latvia.
Very good video. I had the same issue at the end of last year with the derrailleur just not going back in place on upshifts. For some reason they are being shipped with very little grease from the factory, but fortunately the solution is easy. I used the usual green grease from Park Tool and so far its been working flawless. Plan on checking it before every big race though.
The good thing about this clutch is that if it starts giving problems on a long ride, just stop, open cover, remove clutch and put in your pocket.
Man. Your channel is really really one of the best!
Definitely
Your video helped me to repair the clutch within minutes.
Glad to help, happy trails!🤘
Thank you for providing this video. It saved my @ss on a MTB trip. Followed the instructions every step of the way and now my shadow+ derailleur is shifting smooth!
I just opened mine by curiosity after 3 years and about 12000 km.. It looks absolutely brand new, not a single spec of dust!
@@LoveMTB Yes it was always ON in the past, except when I need to remove the wheel :) Still some white grease in, probably the original one. I did not buy any replacement grease yet, but I see this can wait for me! This is on an old 27.5 FS trail bike I use for commuting, so lot of rain, but not that much dust where use it...
Thanks a lot for this great video. No further questions left for my clutch maintanence now! Ride on, Buddy!
Perfect video, thanks very much.
A symptom indicating you might need to do this is the derailleur not returning while the clutch is engaged. This gives you a slack, slipping chain.
I had to clean the clay out of mine while away on a trip. Dry lube seemed ok as a stop-gap solution, but I’ll order some of the advised grease and redo it now that I’m back home.
Some forums also mentioned that the clutch axel bolt is sometimes corroded. Look into that if the video instructions don’t solve the problem for you.
Absolutely, the 12speed shimano deraillers suffer from bad waterproofing over 11spd, letting water in, the axle and the clutch needle themselves rusting even on xtr. Rather poor quality when you think 11spd was really good on that aspect. Can be fixed with lot of cleaning and rust removing, in some cases the needle assembly needs to be replaced if too corroded. Best is to open the clutch mechanism on a new derailler and lube the needle assembly with thin grease, grease the clutch band, and then pack the cover with grease even if it goes against shimano recommendation, worked on all derailler i dealt with. Any grease that isn't too thick will do the trick, note that it works well where i live where temperatures drop to a low 5°C at the coldest of the year (couple of days) and where we have a good 6months of very humid and hot climate, hong kong to be precise. If you live in colder areas grease selection maybe more critical but can't comment on this. Hope this helps.
Great video! So many riders don't know to clean the clutch out and often wonder why their bike isn't shifting that great.
Me! The creaking noise started driving me crazy before shifting is that bad.
Edit: Nm my clutch is fine, its was the pivots that got super dusty and creaky on my xt 11s rd.
Thanks for the vid. Didn't know that the clutch is serviceable.
Excellent tutorial as usual. The depth of your videos doesn't leave anything to chance. Thanks
This has to be the best video on TH-cam. I’ve been searching for ages. Thanks for the info
Thanks for the video. I'm pretty good with SRAM because of my bike but still learning how to work on Shimano thanks to my wifes Kona. Video was just what I needed.
@@LoveMTB Being able to actually work on it is a nice change from SRAM. With that said my GX is awesome.
Keep up the great videos.
Thanks dude 🙌
I followed another video and after servicing My clutch wouldn’t engage. After watching your video I realised the orientation of the barrel wasn’t correct. Lined up the flat spot as you instructed and now all working 👍
thank you so much for this video, its very helpful. i got my 12 speed and after 1 week i heard sounds that likes so tight same as your xtr. i try to open the clutch and put some grease then the problem fixed.. thank you for sharing. its help me a lot😊
Thank you, great video.
I did this, but I didnt take off rear derauleur from my bike. I just put it on smallest cog and then finish job.
Once a mystery, now all is clear. Makes knowing your bike so painless and interesting.. Thanks
Awesome job here ! I just swapped off mine to M8000 and i will clean and service the old one as a spare now. Your videos are the most informative with details and it gives me confidence to do the service. Better than my Big Blue Park Book for details. Thank you !
My brand new SLX 12spd with than two months riding failed. I thought the clutch was shot and I needed a new derailuer. Thank you for the video! I had no idea it could be serviced unlike my Sram xo1 dh!
Serviced it yesterday. Very easy to do and works like new again. Thanks again!
My Shimano clutch came from the factory with almost no grease. After second ride it started to fail. There were small rust spots forming inside. Good job Shimano.
Nice, helpful vid! I know what I'll be doing this weekend. (Definitely neglected this maintenance, sadly.)
@@LoveMTB I've actually noticed a decrease in shifting performance this summer. Excited to see what sort of difference this makes since, like I commented separately, have this exact symptom on my clutch!
Thanks for saving me, I though I broke the derailleur when i was removing wheel bc it stucked, turns out it was just rusty dirty and without lube, works like new now!
clearly explained and demonstrated. also very impress with how clean everything is with normal wear of the gear groups.
Waiting for the grease to come, my XTR is so notchy with alot of chainslap. Didnt know about servicing until your vid came up. Hope it works for me!
Did the service, pretty easy. No more clicking and it is smooth again. What did you say about tension screw in the end? How do i know if it is tight enough? Thanks again
You need to do some research on Sprag Bearings. What you are calling a "Roller Bearing Clutch" is actually a One Way Needle Bering inside a Clutch band. The Band that tightens to the outside of this Sprag Bering is actually the "Clutch" component of this system, and allows slippage at pretentioned rates. The Center Sprag Bearing, is a unique needle bearing, that only allows a One Way free rotation on that Clutch Pin that you've cleaned @ 3:50. The one-way bearings job (the Sparg Bearing), is to allow free movement of the spring assisted Derailleur Cage to move rearward, which takes up Chain slack. The actual Clutch, aka the Outer Band tensioned around the Outside of the Sprag Bearing, then takes over and is what prevents the Derailleur Cage from moving forward, which helps prevent chain slap.
The reason I bring this up is that you were correct in stating the "Roller Bearing Clutch" uses some sort of really fine oil (@ 4:22). Keeping this Sprag Bearing lightly oiled is Crucial to it's normal operation. At 4:47 you've essentially removed all the lubricating Oil from the inner race of this Sprag Bearing when it was cleaned. That Clutch Pin is the inner race of the Sprag Bearing. Once cleaned, at the very least some light machine oil (sewing machine oil) should be added to the rollers within the center of the Sprag Bearing. A little goes a long ways here as just a drop or two of light machine oil is needed to keep this Bearing happy.
If you want to see, or more to the point, hear what a Dry Sprag Bearing sounds like, go watch the Park Tool maintenance vid on this Clutch. The mechanic grabs the Derailleur, and w/ the clutch engaged, it ratchets forward and you hear a loud screeching sound. He claims it's the Dry & Dirty Clutch band but what you're really hearing is the Sprag Bearing itself failing to lock onto the inner race pin and it's ratcheting forward. It's an unmistakable dry metal on metal sound, and not the dry clutch band. Park Tool cleaned out the Sprag Bearing completely and replaced it dry, which is a setup for early failure.
I learned the hard way w/ these unique one-way bearings and a lack of cleaning and proper lubrication cost me $1,500 bucks, then I got smart. You were correct in stating there is light oil on those inner needle bearings within the Sprag Bearing, but you didn't replace the oil you removed from the inner race/pin.
Sometimes these Sprag Bearings are sold under the name of Sprag Clutches, but they are all essentially just a very unique one-way bearing.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! And I called the what Shimano calls them😉
@@LoveMTB And that's a Good thing, it shows you've done your research. Shimano has to name this something and to be honest, "Roller Bearing Clutch" describes the entire assembly nicely but I'm only referring to the Bearing component here. It is a needle Bearing w/ a very unique internal design that locks up all rotation in one direction and freewheels, like a Bearing, in the other. And, like all Bearings, it needs oil. You're correct in warning to keep the Grease used on the clutch band from getting into the center Bearing. I'm just saying that after the Pin is cleaned, add a drop of light (low viscosity), machine oil to the Bearings internal rollers to keep the Bearing happy. You noted this yourself, that the Bearings internal parts have a light oil on them, which is a missed detail on every YT vid out there, except yours. And you mention to keep the Heavy grease from the inside, another piece of good advice you won't see elsewhere.
Shimano does says to lubricate all rotational components within the fine print of their Component Manual on this Clutch/Bearing assembly, but they should have added a touch more info on the center Bearing featured in this assembly.
Thx for the reply & Happy Trails ! ☺️
You saved me $120. Very nice video. Thank you!
Problem FIXED: Shimano clutch lever malfunction. Lever won't fully engage or disengage, or feel stuck.
Cause: The "cam axle" (shown 5:01), that's attached to the lever, has come out of it's correct position in the loops of the "cam unit" (shown 3:35), causing a lockup.
Solution: Only tool needed is 2mm hex key. Disassemble the clutch as shown in the video, unscrew the tension screw if needed until the cam unit can come off, push cam axle back into the correct position, and reassemble. Note that the cam axle could be unintentionally turned 180 degrees before reassembly, so double check that part faces correct direction.
Use heavy green marine grease. 50% the price of bike grease. Much more resistant to water. And you can see it when you contaminate things easily.
Ideally there’s no water entering that area. At all
I had no idea how tho clutch works. I didn’t know what the lever did and never even had it engaged. Thanks!
Thanks so much for this! Followed it every step and my clutch is as good as new. Brilliant👍
I didn't know this about xt derailleurs, sadly. But interestingly, my XT 10spd is 4 years old, and I have ridden around 20,000 and have only replaced cassette once, front chain ring once, and I rode through many rain storms and snow storms. Bike shifts fine. I replaced shifter cable once.
Idk, but I just got a 9spd cassette with chain, Altus MD310 derailleur and am switching to sunrace friction.
I am shocked at the price difference between the cassette and chain. Now I see xt is also high maintenance.
I don't mountain bike but I ride on trails with my sturdy, steel frame, touring, commuting bike.
I am also going to go 1x9 soon after I decide on which NW 32t chain ring.
I am really trying to keep it simple and am a diy bike mechanic.
I am only shocked that so many ads promoting high end stuff that is superfluous, and sure, xt is the high end stuff and even though some people buy the bike with the xt components installed they probably don't realize that the parts wear out faster than 9spd and simple derailleurs.
I am thinking am I foolish for down grading or am I just not being more practical.
I also will be switching over to deore v brakes from magura hs11 .
This was exacTLy what I was looking for! Thank you!!
Thank you for the video, it's so informative as always.
BTW, the 2mm friction adjustment bolt of my RD-M9120 got loose after a few ride. I asked Shimano about the issue but they had no idea of it. I put a little amount of loctite 222 as a trial, and fortunately the bolt hasn't loosen so far.
I had the same issue with this RD, I tightened bolt a little bit, then it's gone, I used for clutch maintenance DT Swiss special grease for ratchet
@@serppint8080 what is your experience with using this grease so far?
@@McLambo I am glad with performance, it lasts near half a year without problems
@@serppint8080 thanks, I have this grease available as well for my DT hub, so will use this also for the clutch.
FANTASTIC VIDEO!! Thanks for posting this man!
Thanks a ton!! Subscribed due to this high quality content! My 2 year old 11 spd XTR does that exact same hacking when I try to force it with the clutch engaged. Looking forward to sorting that out. Thanks again!
Perfect! Ended up that my clutch had gotten water in it though so ordered a new one.
Very usefull. Thank you.
answering the hard questions! my new xt 12 sp der. is only a few months old but started acting up today on the trail. good to know it's the same process and mechanism as the 11, which i learned from you how to work on. i'll dig in tomorrow. i used the Motorex 'bike grease 2000' and it worked just fine. it's a heavy, sticky grease, perfect for some applications, not great for others. always need a couple of different greases around.... cheers.
@@LoveMTB loving my XT 12 speed, it's incredible. if it takes more maintenance i'm ok with that, just glad there is a guide on how to!
@@LoveMTB yep, it was my clutch. your fix is the correct approach for sure, but here's a very quick solution; just inject some grease in the gap in the band. cycle the der a few times and it turns the cam around spreading the grease. you can feel it get smoother. no taking the whole thing apart. simple is good!
@@thecount1001 WHile injectin is a tempting alternative, The shimano instructions do say to avoid getting grese in the middle of the clutch drum. SO I"d stick with the proper method.
Time to find that special grease😉, thanks for this guide Mate... Very informative and straightforward 👍👏
@@LoveMTB yeahhh, Park tools and was looking at it too. Thanks Mate👍
Used sram butter grease, working so smooth now as i did nearly 400 km after service my xtr clutch.
@@LoveMTB Tried SRAM Butter in my clutch. And it was not good for me. Didn't fix anything at all.
Have you tried Shimano Grease for Shadow RD+ Rear Derailleur Stabilizer? Couldn't find it local stores for today
SRAM Butter is not the same as Slic Honey, as far as I know.
Just replaced shifting cable and the housing with no improvement. Clutch is guilty... Great description, thanks!
@@LoveMTB All new for me... There was literally no grease left on clutch cylinder. And I got the bike in February, what the hack? I obviously don't have dedicated grease so I put in the one I have with no high hopes for durability :D
Sofar Motorex white lithium Grease seems to work best (even slightly better shifting at 4,2 NM ckutch friction than the shimano grease )
@@LoveMTB Hey you are welcome...Can't say for now (have used it only for a Week yet) but it is really thick stuff so could potentialiy last long :-) M y XT RD-M8100 needs constant clutch maintenance... I am not a fan of the construction of the clutchassembly to be honest... But as long as you keep regreasing it it (abou every 1500 KM)works great and is probably the most effective system on the Marked... But even if the Motorex Greas will last a couple 100 KM longer it still means 3-4 times of dissassembly a Year 🙄
Great video and worked a treat! Thank you very much.
Great and Easy Explanation! Thank you 🙌
Really helpful and good detailed video makes it easier to understand. Thank you.
Nice video. Thanks. I too was unaware that these clutches are serviceable - my wife's and son's bikes both have shadow+ rear mechs so I'll keep an eye on them in future. (I'm still running a clutchless 9-speed SRAM X0 on my 12 year old hardtail...)
Perfect explanation. Like these tutorials!
Super. I will try this next week.
Hi, I finished maintenance. Very easy and simple....😉😉😊
HPG-1 grease Park Tools
Thanks again.
Why don’t shimano make these videos??
Thanks man for your hard work and video.
Shimano does make videos like this, you just have to work for a shop.
Foye Troute that’s not going to help me too much
Because Shimano are snobs who don't care what you or I think.
@@justinwbohner If that would be the case shimano wouldn't give you the option to service it by yourself, adjust it or to turn it on and off. Also they wouldn't give you multiple cassette choice like on the 12spd 10-45 or 10-51 for exmple like Sram. Not serviceable, non adjustable and no on or off and only choice of gearing on the 12spd. Lets not count the 52tooth thing as it has a stupidly large gap inbetween first and 2nd gear.
Today i have put the tensionring for the clutch in molten parafin wax together with my chain and it seems to work pretty good.
Off course not sure about long therm yet. Edit: after a couple day's it was sticky and noise again. I got Liqui Moly LM47 and this really works great! Have bin off-road a couple times now just works as well as when i put it in there! I wanted to add PTFE powder to the wax but bloody hell i'm not waiting a month on that stuff!
@@LoveMTB I guess i will find out when the weather stops to be warm, could, snow, rain, dry.... Very weird at the moment.
@@LoveMTB This is absolutely mental isn't it?😵
@@LoveMTB Oh YESS! Just look at em big ships running on old oil and shit... Terrible! Sadly before this will be changed gasoline cars will be banned.
@@LoveMTB Clutch is back making noises and being sticky again. I guess i somewhere have to get that shimano stuff then.
Thanks for trying this and reporting back. I like to use wax as much as I can, so much better than liquid lubes. Obviously this job needs grease though.
Always the best! Thanks 👍👍👍
Cheers.. Very informative clear and concise... Keep it up. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
you have earned a new subscriber :D thank you forbthe great video 😁
Thanks for the video! Helped me solve my first grippy clutch! By the way, my internal parts, specially the friction band shows sings of rust. Normal? I guess not, yours doesn't show any.
@@LoveMTB I had humidity unfortunately and the friction band had protuberances that i scratched out. I was astonished all seemed sealed, even the rubber cap for the internal screw . I greased the seals too and I'll check back on my next rainy ride. Thanks again!
Correct grease is SHIMANO Y04121000
Thanks @LoveMTB!
Great video, but you left out a crucial step...Inside the clutch cylinder is a needle bearing. The needle bearing can be removed out from the clutch cylinder by removing the c-clip and pushing it out. The needle bearing needs to be cleaned and re-greased. If the needle bearing is seized or corroded it will make the rest of the clutch service counter productive. It would be good to include this in your video. -thanks!
Good point. I wiped around the inside of the bearing cylinder with a couple of cotton buds until all the needle rollers were clean, then I just lubed the rollers with some fine bearing oil. Saves on dismantling, if there is no rust etc present…
Great job, nice video & clear explanation
Just did this, amazing video, thank you!
However, I am not using Shimano grease, i have a tone of different oils / greases and I thought to use the one that seemed of same viscosity like Shimanos.
So I used Fuchs Renolit Multifunction (white marine grade grease), and for me works like a charm, smooth and strong clutch action. I own a Shimano XT 11 speed.
The grease is also very anti corrosive, so it will protect the parts well.
I will post how it behaves through time and if something changed.
Learning a lot great video thank you
Excellent video, thank you!
very helpful video.
thanks a lot
more bike maintenance video to come
I never know that there's a lever at the rd and mine's 2mm screw inside the clutch was loose. Those time I'm riding costed me a lot holes on my frame and noise. Wish I knew that sooner
yay i’m gonna give it a shot
Great video. I took mine apart and that plastic piece on the bottom of the screw was broken?! Not sure if I did that when I pulled it out-- but I have another part on the way.... I think I can actually just pull this out while I wait for my part....
Used Finishline Premium Grease with Teflon, seems to be working. No longer term experience yet
How has the finishline grease held up? It's what I have at the moment and I need to service my Ultegra rx road derailleur clutch.
Thanku sir you make life easier
this video saved me. Thanks
Thank you so much..nice and clear instruction.👍
Thank you! this is very helpful
tnx for the guide, mine has a ttttrrrrrrrr sound every time i shift, turns out the clutch lube has dried out.
Also smooth suspension movement on a FS bike 👍
Depending on the linkage system, it's very hard to notice.
I do from time to time remove the shock and move the rear triangle through the travel. Oh and I’ve been using lithium grease. Works great.
I've always used Motorex 2000 on my shimano clutches, on the last service I did purchase the shimano special hub grease and I find it to be only half as effective as the motorex 2000... I was expecting it to be better but it was not the case
@@LoveMTB Longevity + smoothness. With the Shimano grease you can feel the notchyness when moving it by hand, with Motorex 2000 its much smoother for me. I find the Shimano grease to be too thin. Motorex 2000 from what i've read over the years is the same as the green Shimano grease that comes prepacked in their bottom brackets and lots of other Shimano components, it really is amazing stuff
@@LoveMTB Seems to work perfectly for me, not too slippery just smoother :) I was actually just looking through the instructions for my shimano m786 derailleur just now and I notice they mention "New grease number: Y04121000 (50 g)
Old Grease number: Y04120800 (100 g)" So it looks like they are using a new grease now, if you happen to get your hands on the Y04121000 grease let me know if there is any differences between it and the old stuff, from searching the internet the only difference I can see so far is the container it comes in but I can't see whats actually inside the container.
good video, makes me realize i need to do this :)
Top video. Cheers!
Great video thank you! Subscribed
Very informative!
Why would anyone dislike this video?
Great video! What concentration of isopropyl alcohol do u recommended for this task?
Had a sticky clutch,now I don't,cheers dude
Thanks for this very useful guide! is it a KMC chain or sram you use with your shimano clutch?
Great video. very helpfull. thanks.