Please note - I swapped the double with single crankset. Here's the right order: 2:35 SGS cage + 10-51T AND GS cage + 10-45T 5:52 XTR 9120, XT 8120. SLX 7120 for DOUBLE crankset 7:19 SINGLE crankset
I am running 1x 12 10-51T but my derailleur (8100) was broken and Shimano replaced the part for an 8120, I was able to install it but I notice the shifting is not that quick and soft. I can see the 45T line instead of the 51T. Should I request the 8100 instead?
Good vid, except for that error. I don't have the new kit, but was researching it the other day and read the Shimano literature about the B settings, so I picked your mistake and then came looking for a correction. It's interesting how the 2x mech has the extended measured distance for 1x set-up. This shows that the line is basically a minimum mark (to an extent.) The extra B gap for the 1x must be for cross-chained chainline angling through the pulleys? So if you want to crosschain with 2x (like say use all but the 45 when in the 36 ring) I wonder if it's better to increase that B gap a bit from the line, more like the 1x measurement. I can't see how that would have a bad effect on shifting when in the granny, especially when NOT cross-chaining the granny. When I get the cash I'm considering building a 2x12 and ditching the pointless 26/36 chainset for a custom crankset combo running a 14t step (with an appropriate FD from a different group) for 22 or 24 granny, with a 36 or 38, paired with the 10-45 on a 700/29 wheel to get awesome range for steep climbs and bikepacking climbs, while keeping a couple of high gears for winding it out along roads. Gravel riding could go 28/42. I know the 11-42 11 speed option is similar, but getting that ultra low climbing gear, combined with the great 12 spd gear steps and top end, is something I'd love to try, especially to show how it might actually work. So your in-depth look at such mechanics as this is very useful. Thanks.
Small tip: Whenever I turn the B-screw I pull the whole derailleur down first so it's not contacting the stop on the hanger. This prevents the screw from eating up the soft metal of the hanger. I've seen hangers eaten up to the point where the b-screw couldn't provide enough clearance even when fully screwed in because the hanger had a crater where the b-screw sat in.
I have never adjusted this limiting screw on my MTB before and after fitting my first new chain, it was not shifting correctly. I came across this video by accident, followed the very clear instructions and voila! Perfect shifting again! Thanks Sickbiker from Australia; you are truly 'sick' 👍
I just bought a new bike with the SLX 12 speed and I thought the gears didn’t feel as good as I thought they should. I’ve always had SRAM X1 gears before and just thought Shimano wasn’t as crisp. After watching this video I went straight out to check it and wouldn’t you know it, the derailleur wasn’t adjusted right. It was way out by at least 5mm or more. Definitely runs smoother now. Thank you so much for posting this video.
Glad I found this video. I have M5100 1x11 drivetrain with 11-51 cassette in my mtb and it has never shifted smoothly. After aligning it like this it's like butter now. Thank you!
Thank you so so much for this! I just got my bike back from the mechanic after changing chain and cassette and my chain looked longer than it should have been (not enough tension on the smallest gear). I was getting the nastiest skip while powering through the smallest gear, so I started hunting around. I just sent this video to him telling him that I fixed it. Thanks again!!!
Oh my gosh! I always had a slappy chain on the 10T cog. I went and checked for this mark...adjusted...and now it's much better. My mark was not outlined in white, it was etched into the metal. Thank you so much!
Very good to know. Mine was out of adjustment from the shop. I had a couple of really nasty shifts and was wondering why. Now I know and now it’s fixed. Thanks!
Thanks for your contribution! Had exactly this problem on a brand new bike with M8100-SGS. The only difference - my derailleur was too far from the sprocket instead. The result was messy and squeaky shifting between some gears. After the adjustment - perfectly smooth! 👍👍
Just got my bike with Deore M6100 12speed with long cage sgs and for the life of me couldn't figure out why it shifted so bad when I got it, this video saved the day! Deore derailleur has black line instead of white though. Thanks!
Thanks for the upload. Not matter why did my shifting just wasn't quite right. I needed about three turns of the screw to get it lined up and now its perfect!
Thanks a lot! I just got a MTBwith a SLX groupset and the chain was skipping whenever on the 51T cog. After a quick set up using your instructions now it runs flawless! :)
Absolutely fantastic video! I had my chain too short after adjusting the B screw on my brand new 1x12 SLX with XT shifter, and my shifting was shocking. This video helps explain how to get it sooner smooth! Thanks a lot!
I got a new bike last week, with a 10-51 XT cassette and derailleur; I've been out on 3 rides with it. I just went to check and, just like you said, the teeth were aligned with the arrowheads, not with the line. Grrrrr.... Thanks for the video! Glad I caught this issue early on. BTW, the XT derailleur doesn't have highly visible white text, it's just moulded text on the metal cage. Using a torch/flashlight at an angle helps bring out the text.
Thx for the Info! I have bought a new bike one month ago with the whole m9100 Groupset! I was really Not amused of the performance IT was rattling whole time, shifting perfomance was really miserable! Gears were jumping and IT was no fun! my xt Groupset of my old bike is even better in Performance than these xtr i thought! It Was really Frustrating! After i saw These video here i figured Out my screw was mich to tied screwed in! I turned the screw a few times Out lined IT Up with the marking and now it works like a sharme 😎 thank you for your Tip! It seems that many bike sellers send there bikes Not good prepared for ride or they even dont know about These marking line! It runs now perfectly 👍🏻
Great video. Saved me from cutting chain too short after installing new SLX 10-51T cassette. Had excess slack on 10T but after watching video, could see that B-screw adjustment was way off from where it should be straight from vendor. I didn't have a white line or the two white arrows on my SLX SGS derailleur but when I looked closely, I could see the 51T marking with a faint line underneath. Using that, made adjustments per your instruction and now it shifts clean and no excess slack on 10T. Thanks.
I think the white triangles are actually arrows meant to tell the user to use the line as the point of guidance for alignment (e.g. 'look at the line'), which might not be wholly intuitive to everyone, because they assume the arrows are the point to use for reference. This is a great video though now that I have a 1x12 XT drivetrain to replace the horrible and failed GX Eagle my Remedy came with. I'll have to check the alignment with this.
I've been using this guide for a couple of years to adjust the b-tension screw on my XT 12-speed. Recently I changed the chain after it reached 0,75% wear, only to notice that the b-tension was all out of whack. This was set up by the manufacturer after I received it back from maintenance where they changed casette and chain. Note that it was shifting perfectly. So after I put the new chain to lengh, making sure to put it on correctly (with the imprinted text to the outside), same for the quick-link I set up the b-tension to the indicated line (derailleur was much to high). Since then I cannot get it to shift good anymore; there are a couple of spots on the casette (from gear 5 to 6, most notable) that 1 out of 3 shifts, the shifting will go very clunky (also loud noise), and when pedalling it will feel like it's missing a buch of gears (pedals will fly forward). Now for the time being I have returned the b-tension screw somewhat to it's old position; shifting is better/quicker, but there are still some problem spots. Any clues before I bring it back to the bike shop? (I really like to do maintenance myself however)
Adjusting a SRAM with the white SRAM tool is very easy and an absolute must for smooth shifting. Wish Shimano would just come up with a similiar tool. Great video. Thanks.
Great example of adjusting the b screw thankyou 👍, makes a big difference, but mine worked best adjusted a bit closer than shown. Both with the original shimano set, and with a slightly smoother shifting kmc chain which refused to run with the old chain wheel at first.
Great video. I also have skipping issues on the highest gear (10T) i think that the right tension will also help so the chain has more teeth to grab onto. Thank you!
Unfortunately Shimano 12 speed cassettes have a tendency to skip on the 10 tooth sprocket even before they are worn due to lack of engagement. If you experience this problem it is better to have slightly less b tension (line slightly behind the teeth) in order to achieve more chain wrap on the 10 tooth gear.
Always best to shift early and often, if you can help it you should never shift under load/while sprinting. Even when you're shifting on the flats you should always let up pressure slightly on the pedals when the chain is in the actual shift. If you do this I guarantee your chains will last 3x longer. A lot of cassette/chain wear and breakage is caused by people shifting improperly.
Wow!!! Literally scrolled past this and thought it might be useful...might being a massive understatement!! My shifts haven't been smooth since day 1 and now I know why, took 10 seconds to adjust and instantly better Thank you!!
Thanks mate. We are the same. Im using my new lux trail few times until I saw my RD is higher than the biggest cog. Now looks more crisp shifting and will try on actual ride.
Thank you for your video. The line for my 51t was about 2cm worse than yours was... very annoyed that my dealer did a bad job setting this up properly. Caused damage to the derailleur which I can't afford to replace :(
6:54 I have a Shimano XT M8100, long cage, and in my case this doesn't work. When I set it like this, the shifting becomes worse. When set it back on the mark the shifting is smoother.
Try 3x10 (If you can get the first 10 speed MTB derailleurs and shifters before they beefed up the return spring in the derailleur and made shifting a heavy, clunky misery (Like SRAM)). The shifting on 10 speed is noticeably quicker and cleaner than 9 speed. 12 speed claims to be a similar jump forward compared to 10 and 11 speed. Hope they've sorted out the shamefully heavy shifting.
I Don't think that someone set it up wrong, I have the XTR9100 version and with time I have to check the derrailer because it moves a little bit off so you have to put it back on top of the Line.
I recently installed the 11 speed rd-M5100-SGS, and I looked everywhere for the line and the two triangles but could newer find it so had to just estimate whare they was supposed to be and did manage to get really good shifting in the end :-D
Excellent demo and tutorial! I think my chain doesn't have enough links, because after all adjustments, the tension on mine is much tighter than this one on the lowest (smallest) gear. My chain is not seating properly on the gears of the cassette and sometimes skips.
Chaintension is the key here. I had problems with my highest gear( 11teeth) slipping. The chain was way to loose. After correctly adjusting the b screw the chain was much tighter and the highest gear was not slipping anymore.
At 4:10 you showed where the B-Gap was set at when the bike came to you but you didn’t mention if this was a hardtail or full suspension mtn bike. If it’s a full suspension mtn bike then it could have been adjusted at sag which is different than setting the B-Gap with the bike in a work stand. For a full suspension bike you’ll need to have the B-Gap adjusted while the bike is at the correct sag that you would be riding at so you’ll either need to have a 2nd person adjust the B-Gap while you’re sitting on the bike with full gear on or you could let the air out of your rear suspension so you can do it yourself in a work stand with the suspension set at the correct sag.
@@nickv3085 the B-gap for a 11spd and 12spd 1x system on a FULL SUSPENSION bike needs to be adjusted while the bike is at the correct sag. You obviously have no idea what you’re talking about.
Back in the day (1990’s) running good old triple chain sets, no guide line...the necessary setting was known as ‘the angle of dangle’ and it is known as the ‘b’ screw
How in the name of god did it take you 10 minutes to explain that you adjust the B tension screw to align the longest teeth of the sprocket to the line printed/stamped on the derailleur cage or with 2 chainrings, position the centre of the top jockey wheel to be 46 mm from the tip of longest tooth on the cassette?
I had to adjust it as well on a brand new bike, and sadly I found out way too late that my bike was delivered with a 2 link too short of a chain. I had not ridden trail bikes for years, and never 12x as well so even though I thought several times that there was too much tension in the drivetrain I thought maybe that was just how 12x was with XTR and so on. I know I should have just checked the length of my chain but I just did not consider a highend bike to be delivered with the wrong length of chain. Eventually I did check it, and so I got a new chain covered by the shop thankfully. I do often feel that something is off with my derailleur XTR 9120 because extra stress during a time with shorter chain, because it is a bit hard to adjust the gears. At this point I just feel the bikeshop may just say that a rock could have hit the derailleur and so on, and yes obviously I've straifed a rock here and there like you do while trail riding, but no big hits. I'm a bit frustrated about the whole thing because I want nothing to do with the bikeshop I bought my bike at because they've been very unprofessional since day one. Everything was fine until the money was transfered, and then all of a sudden i wasn't so interesting anymore. Pretty sad when you actually try to shop locally and it just did not matter at all.
Mine has a line. But it's not white. Its stamped into the derailleur. 7:19 is not for the single crankset. My shifting seems better. But I need more riding to confirm.
This info stated in the user manual (at least for my BR-7100 SLX 1x12) along as another specific - how the chain should go between upper and bottom pulley
I believe you set it the same. The chainring has no impact on the guide pulley. The b screw is used to adjust the distance between the cassette teeth and the guide pulley. An oval chainring would only affect the tension pulley which is not adjustable.
Can you help with chain tension? I think mine might be too short. Perhaps. I measured the chain when this measurement was incorrectly adjusted it just seems really tight in the highest 51 gear
I'm running an e-Thirteen cassette with 50T big gear and I aligned it to that line. I assume the mech doesn't care how many teeth are on your big gear, we should just adjust the line to that biggest gear however many teeth it has?
It's not that it comes misaligned. You just gotta set it up properly. The dealer instructions tell you exactly how to adjust it all. It's basic adjustments that you have to make for any bike when replacing parts.
The two triangles are supposed to show that the TOP of each tooth should be at the line, but the did between them. Maybe if they used several more it might help..
Wow... happened upon this by accident. Mine was off a bit. Holy crap. Of all the tutorials out there - this is the first I’ve seen on the topic!! Found this while looking for how to replace my chain (got a XMC DLC12) !!
I have a 12 speed 10-52T custom cassette, which is Deore, SLX, XT and XTR compatible. I also have the SGS SLX derailleur, I presume it's pretty much the same process? Good video btw.
I think ur wrong for some stuff. For 8120 derailleur u need to measure 46 mm for single chain ring and for the double is the method of line up to the edge of the plate. Its written on shimano manual for this derailleur
Thanks for another fantastic video. I have just checked this on my 12 speed slx. However, I can’t get my longest teeth to line up with the mark, even when I removed the bolt it was still a few millimetres out. Any ideas please? 🤔
I use a 11-51 Sunrace cassete and the 6100. It doesn’t work right on the line, I had to adjust the pulley closer to the 51 cog, otherwise the 45 cog will be a bit noisy. And I’m positive, it’s not the index or a bent derailleur hanger.
Please note - I swapped the double with single crankset. Here's the right order:
2:35 SGS cage + 10-51T AND GS cage + 10-45T
5:52 XTR 9120, XT 8120. SLX 7120 for DOUBLE crankset
7:19 SINGLE crankset
I am running 1x 12 10-51T but my derailleur (8100) was broken and Shimano replaced the part for an 8120, I was able to install it but I notice the shifting is not that quick and soft. I can see the 45T line instead of the 51T. Should I request the 8100 instead?
Will the xt m8000 have this same guide too?
Good vid, except for that error. I don't have the new kit, but was researching it the other day and read the Shimano literature about the B settings, so I picked your mistake and then came looking for a correction.
It's interesting how the 2x mech has the extended measured distance for 1x set-up. This shows that the line is basically a minimum mark (to an extent.) The extra B gap for the 1x must be for cross-chained chainline angling through the pulleys? So if you want to crosschain with 2x (like say use all but the 45 when in the 36 ring) I wonder if it's better to increase that B gap a bit from the line, more like the 1x measurement.
I can't see how that would have a bad effect on shifting when in the granny, especially when NOT cross-chaining the granny.
When I get the cash I'm considering building a 2x12 and ditching the pointless 26/36 chainset for a custom crankset combo running a 14t step (with an appropriate FD from a different group) for 22 or 24 granny, with a 36 or 38, paired with the 10-45 on a 700/29 wheel to get awesome range for steep climbs and bikepacking climbs, while keeping a couple of high gears for winding it out along roads. Gravel riding could go 28/42.
I know the 11-42 11 speed option is similar, but getting that ultra low climbing gear, combined with the great 12 spd gear steps and top end, is something I'd love to try, especially to show how it might actually work.
So your in-depth look at such mechanics as this is very useful.
Thanks.
On cues u have marker for 51t and 48t❤
Small tip: Whenever I turn the B-screw I pull the whole derailleur down first so it's not contacting the stop on the hanger. This prevents the screw from eating up the soft metal of the hanger. I've seen hangers eaten up to the point where the b-screw couldn't provide enough clearance even when fully screwed in because the hanger had a crater where the b-screw sat in.
Came across this on accident and immediately realized that my derailleur wasn’t set up right. This fixed it right up!
You are the only TH-camr who I have seen that shows exactly how it has to be adjusted. Thanks a lot 🎉
I have never adjusted this limiting screw on my MTB before and after fitting my first new chain, it was not shifting correctly.
I came across this video by accident, followed the very clear instructions and voila! Perfect shifting again! Thanks Sickbiker from Australia; you are truly 'sick' 👍
I just bought a new bike with the SLX 12 speed and I thought the gears didn’t feel as good as I thought they should. I’ve always had SRAM X1 gears before and just thought Shimano wasn’t as crisp. After watching this video I went straight out to check it and wouldn’t you know it, the derailleur wasn’t adjusted right. It was way out by at least 5mm or more. Definitely runs smoother now. Thank you so much for posting this video.
Glad I found this video. I have M5100 1x11 drivetrain with 11-51 cassette in my mtb and it has never shifted smoothly. After aligning it like this it's like butter now. Thank you!
Thank you so so much for this! I just got my bike back from the mechanic after changing chain and cassette and my chain looked longer than it should have been (not enough tension on the smallest gear). I was getting the nastiest skip while powering through the smallest gear, so I started hunting around.
I just sent this video to him telling him that I fixed it. Thanks again!!!
Best explanation of that derailer adjustment I have seen yet. You are very good at explaining difficult concepts. Thanks.
Oh my gosh! I always had a slappy chain on the 10T cog. I went and checked for this mark...adjusted...and now it's much better. My mark was not outlined in white, it was etched into the metal. Thank you so much!
Very good to know. Mine was out of adjustment from the shop. I had a couple of really nasty shifts and was wondering why. Now I know and now it’s fixed. Thanks!
Thanks for your contribution! Had exactly this problem on a brand new bike with M8100-SGS. The only difference - my derailleur was too far from the sprocket instead. The result was messy and squeaky shifting between some gears. After the adjustment - perfectly smooth! 👍👍
Dany, you are the king! I checked my XTR and have exactly the same issue with wrong setup like you had, thanks.
Awesome tip! This was the first time I had heard of this, and sure enough, my new bike was set up incorrectly!
Just got my bike with Deore M6100 12speed with long cage sgs and for the life of me couldn't figure out why it shifted so bad when I got it, this video saved the day! Deore derailleur has black line instead of white though. Thanks!
As a novice mechanic (learning every day), that’s useful.
I’m am about to do my first Di2 build. It’s making my head explode.
Thanks for the upload. Not matter why did my shifting just wasn't quite right.
I needed about three turns of the screw to get it lined up and now its perfect!
Thanks a lot! I just got a MTBwith a SLX groupset and the chain was skipping whenever on the 51T cog. After a quick set up using your instructions now it runs flawless! :)
Absolutely fantastic video! I had my chain too short after adjusting the B screw on my brand new 1x12 SLX with XT shifter, and my shifting was shocking. This video helps explain how to get it sooner smooth! Thanks a lot!
Linking to a service manual or any documentation would make this video perfect 🥇
I got a new bike last week, with a 10-51 XT cassette and derailleur; I've been out on 3 rides with it. I just went to check and, just like you said, the teeth were aligned with the arrowheads, not with the line. Grrrrr.... Thanks for the video! Glad I caught this issue early on.
BTW, the XT derailleur doesn't have highly visible white text, it's just moulded text on the metal cage. Using a torch/flashlight at an angle helps bring out the text.
thank you!!!
Thx for the Info! I have bought a new bike one month ago with the whole m9100 Groupset! I was really Not amused of the performance IT was rattling whole time, shifting perfomance was really miserable! Gears were jumping and IT was no fun! my xt Groupset of my old bike is even better in Performance than these xtr i thought! It Was really Frustrating! After i saw These video here i figured Out my screw was mich to tied screwed in! I turned the screw a few times Out lined IT Up with the marking and now it works like a sharme 😎 thank you for your Tip! It seems that many bike sellers send there bikes Not good prepared for ride or they even dont know about These marking line! It runs now perfectly 👍🏻
Of course they don't set it up if you have to do anything when you get a bike that's set it up.
Great video. Saved me from cutting chain too short after installing new SLX 10-51T cassette. Had excess slack on 10T but after watching video, could see that B-screw adjustment was way off from where it should be straight from vendor. I didn't have a white line or the two white arrows on my SLX SGS derailleur but when I looked closely, I could see the 51T marking with a faint line underneath. Using that, made adjustments per your instruction and now it shifts clean and no excess slack on 10T. Thanks.
Very useful video! Was riding for over a month with misaligned rear mech on my brand new bike, now fixed it! Ty!
My b-screw was way out of line, adjusted to your recommendations now the shifting is crisp🤘🏻
I think the white triangles are actually arrows meant to tell the user to use the line as the point of guidance for alignment (e.g. 'look at the line'), which might not be wholly intuitive to everyone, because they assume the arrows are the point to use for reference. This is a great video though now that I have a 1x12 XT drivetrain to replace the horrible and failed GX Eagle my Remedy came with. I'll have to check the alignment with this.
Thanks very much! Mine was off by 2mm which explains the chain hang-up problem I was having.
You are the best Thank you for fixing my bike
I've been using this guide for a couple of years to adjust the b-tension screw on my XT 12-speed.
Recently I changed the chain after it reached 0,75% wear, only to notice that the b-tension was all out of whack. This was set up by the manufacturer after I received it back from maintenance where they changed casette and chain.
Note that it was shifting perfectly.
So after I put the new chain to lengh, making sure to put it on correctly (with the imprinted text to the outside), same for the quick-link I set up the b-tension to the indicated line (derailleur was much to high).
Since then I cannot get it to shift good anymore; there are a couple of spots on the casette (from gear 5 to 6, most notable) that 1 out of 3 shifts, the shifting will go very clunky (also loud noise), and when pedalling it will feel like it's missing a buch of gears (pedals will fly forward).
Now for the time being I have returned the b-tension screw somewhat to it's old position; shifting is better/quicker, but there are still some problem spots.
Any clues before I bring it back to the bike shop? (I really like to do maintenance myself however)
Thank you! My shifting is so much smoother now
Adjusting a SRAM with the white SRAM tool is very easy and an absolute must for smooth shifting. Wish Shimano would just come up with a similiar tool. Great video. Thanks.
Shimano did IT better. No need for a Tool👍
Great example of adjusting the b screw thankyou 👍, makes a big difference, but mine worked best adjusted a bit closer than shown. Both with the original shimano set, and with a slightly smoother shifting kmc chain which refused to run with the old chain wheel at first.
Thanks!!! The best video of how adjust these new 12v shimano's, long teeth with the line, just perfect!
Thanks a bunch mate, you made my day! Finally I can adjust it for both high and low speeds!
Great video. I also have skipping issues on the highest gear (10T) i think that the right tension will also help so the chain has more teeth to grab onto. Thank you!
Unfortunately Shimano 12 speed cassettes have a tendency to skip on the 10 tooth sprocket even before they are worn due to lack of engagement. If you experience this problem it is better to have slightly less b tension (line slightly behind the teeth) in order to achieve more chain wrap on the 10 tooth gear.
Always best to shift early and often, if you can help it you should never shift under load/while sprinting. Even when you're shifting on the flats you should always let up pressure slightly on the pedals when the chain is in the actual shift. If you do this I guarantee your chains will last 3x longer. A lot of cassette/chain wear and breakage is caused by people shifting improperly.
True. I always use this technique when shifting the gears.
From experimenting, I find that having the guide pulley higher than recommended gives smoother shifting and sometimes solves shift hesitation.
Wow!!! Literally scrolled past this and thought it might be useful...might being a massive understatement!!
My shifts haven't been smooth since day 1 and now I know why, took 10 seconds to adjust and instantly better
Thank you!!
Nobody told me that, the difference between the line and the measurement!!!!!!!!
Great😁
Thanks mate. We are the same. Im using my new lux trail few times until I saw my RD is higher than the biggest cog. Now looks more crisp shifting and will try on actual ride.
Wow! My new bike which i thought was shifting pretty smooth was 6mm off the line! Thx! Great vid!
Thank you for your video. The line for my 51t was about 2cm worse than yours was... very annoyed that my dealer did a bad job setting this up properly. Caused damage to the derailleur which I can't afford to replace :(
2:01 'This one' is called the "b" screw and it's found on Shimano derailleurs since ever. The only 'new' thing is the marking .
6:54 I have a Shimano XT M8100, long cage, and in my case this doesn't work. When I set it like this, the shifting becomes worse. When set it back on the mark the shifting is smoother.
Still ride old 3x9 xtr 10 years old works like a Charme 👌✌️
Try 3x10 (If you can get the first 10 speed MTB derailleurs and shifters before they beefed up the return spring in the derailleur and made shifting a heavy, clunky misery (Like SRAM)). The shifting on 10 speed is noticeably quicker and cleaner than 9 speed. 12 speed claims to be a similar jump forward compared to 10 and 11 speed. Hope they've sorted out the shamefully heavy shifting.
Me too. In fact I went bike packing on a 1990 stump jumper and the old deore DX gears shift as well as any bike I've ever ridden.
@@peglor thx bro but i ride my bike only in the city don't need quickly gears change 😁😁
My Deore m5100 has this marker. Will definitely check mine if it's aligned properly.
Thanks i bought new bike with slx n that setting was so off that my chain was getting losses thanks for video i adjust mine now
If you follow that settings it aslo affect the wrap of chain to smallest cogs it cause chain slip when you do hard sprinting in 11t cogs
I Don't think that someone set it up wrong, I have the XTR9100 version and with time I have to check the derrailer because it moves a little bit off so you have to put it back on top of the Line.
Very useful information, thanks to share this ... I need to recheck my RD setting 👍
I recently installed the 11 speed rd-M5100-SGS, and I looked everywhere for the line and the two triangles but could newer find it so had to just estimate whare they was supposed to be and did manage to get really good shifting in the end :-D
there is a line with my sgs M5100, its black.
Many thanks for this information, just checked mine, and it was wrongly set since I got my bike from the dealer.
Excellent demo and tutorial! I think my chain doesn't have enough links, because after all adjustments, the tension on mine is much tighter than this one on the lowest (smallest) gear. My chain is not seating properly on the gears of the cassette and sometimes skips.
Chaintension is the key here.
I had problems with my highest gear( 11teeth) slipping. The chain was way to loose. After correctly adjusting the b screw the chain was much tighter and the highest gear was not slipping anymore.
At 4:10 you showed where the B-Gap was set at when the bike came to you but you didn’t mention if this was a hardtail or full suspension mtn bike. If it’s a full suspension mtn bike then it could have been adjusted at sag which is different than setting the B-Gap with the bike in a work stand. For a full suspension bike you’ll need to have the B-Gap adjusted while the bike is at the correct sag that you would be riding at so you’ll either need to have a 2nd person adjust the B-Gap while you’re sitting on the bike with full gear on or you could let the air out of your rear suspension so you can do it yourself in a work stand with the suspension set at the correct sag.
This isn’t always the case... e.g. xx1 11sp
@@nickv3085 the B-gap for a 11spd and 12spd 1x system on a FULL SUSPENSION bike needs to be adjusted while the bike is at the correct sag. You obviously have no idea what you’re talking about.
Wow, is this the reason I get slippage on jockey wheels, next to and big cog 12 speed?
My gears could be miles out and tend to crunch at times
Excellent presentation, thank you for sharing 🙂
Minute 4'26". According Shimano Belgium they just point at the white line in order to show that you have to use it like you explain very well.
I checked my deorem6100, same issue wrong setup. Thanks for this vid. 👍❤️
Thank you for this. I just shared this with one of my FB groups I follow.
Thanks for this, mine was miles out for some reason I didn't bother adjusting the height screw, not works much better!
Back in the day (1990’s) running good old triple chain sets, no guide line...the necessary setting was known as ‘the angle of dangle’ and it is known as the ‘b’ screw
How about fullsus do you need to sit before adjusting the B tension? Sram you need to set on sag position before adjusting the B tension.
How in the name of god did it take you 10 minutes to explain that you adjust the B tension screw to align the longest teeth of the sprocket to the line printed/stamped on the derailleur cage or with 2 chainrings, position the centre of the top jockey wheel to be 46 mm from the tip of longest tooth on the cassette?
He gets paid for the 10 minutes
Repeat six times.
If a video is a minimum of 10 minutes long youtube allows two ads to be placed instead of one
I had to adjust it as well on a brand new bike, and sadly I found out way too late that my bike was delivered with a 2 link too short of a chain. I had not ridden trail bikes for years, and never 12x as well so even though I thought several times that there was too much tension in the drivetrain I thought maybe that was just how 12x was with XTR and so on.
I know I should have just checked the length of my chain but I just did not consider a highend bike to be delivered with the wrong length of chain. Eventually I did check it, and so I got a new chain covered by the shop thankfully.
I do often feel that something is off with my derailleur XTR 9120 because extra stress during a time with shorter chain, because it is a bit hard to adjust the gears. At this point I just feel the bikeshop may just say that a rock could have hit the derailleur and so on, and yes obviously I've straifed a rock here and there like you do while trail riding, but no big hits.
I'm a bit frustrated about the whole thing because I want nothing to do with the bikeshop I bought my bike at because they've been very unprofessional since day one. Everything was fine until the money was transfered, and then all of a sudden i wasn't so interesting anymore. Pretty sad when you actually try to shop locally and it just did not matter at all.
Mine has a line. But it's not white. Its stamped into the derailleur.
7:19 is not for the single crankset.
My shifting seems better. But I need more riding to confirm.
This info stated in the user manual (at least for my BR-7100 SLX 1x12) along as another specific - how the chain should go between upper and bottom pulley
Thanks a lot, you help me to adjust my gear, now is perfect! Lets Ride It!
How to set b screw if I run oval chainring?
I believe you set it the same. The chainring has no impact on the guide pulley. The b screw is used to adjust the distance between the cassette teeth and the guide pulley. An oval chainring would only affect the tension pulley which is not adjustable.
@@mtbbiker6401 thank you for the answer!
High quality content!
On mine the line is stamped into the metal, not screen printed. Harder to see but won't wear off, I guess. Mine arrived slightly high.
very useful thank you , but what about 10-45 cassette with long cage ?
Can you help with chain tension? I think mine might be too short. Perhaps. I measured the chain when this measurement was incorrectly adjusted it just seems really tight in the highest 51 gear
Killer info. Thank you!!
You have an Orbea!!!! Great bike!!!
clear explanation thnx ! finally I understand it and it does help a lot in shifting performance
I'm running an e-Thirteen cassette with 50T big gear and I aligned it to that line. I assume the mech doesn't care how many teeth are on your big gear, we should just adjust the line to that biggest gear however many teeth it has?
Thanx for the video. I checked my sgs derailleur with the 51t is a little too far from the line. Maybe it’ll shift smoother 👍
Great. If the RD was to high, then it will feel less stiff on the lowest gears, if it was to low, it will shift quicker.
Did you set this when you sag 1st and then adjust your derailleur? Only adjust once bike is saged.
It's not that it comes misaligned. You just gotta set it up properly. The dealer instructions tell you exactly how to adjust it all. It's basic adjustments that you have to make for any bike when replacing parts.
Thanks a lot for this, this solve the back pedal issue on my deore 12 speed
The two triangles are supposed to show that the TOP of each tooth should be at the line, but the did between them. Maybe if they used several more it might help..
If you look at the manual it shows the tooth between the triangles like in the video.
They are arrows and pointing towards the line. The line is the key information.
я чуть не родил пока дождался нужной информации) но она была полезной так как недавно приобрёл xcaliber 9 10x51
Wow... happened upon this by accident. Mine was off a bit. Holy crap. Of all the tutorials out there - this is the first I’ve seen on the topic!! Found this while looking for how to replace my chain (got a XMC DLC12) !!
Great piece of information! Very useful!
Hmmm... Just checked my xt 12 speed... There isn't a marker line 😢
it's there, it's just black on the XT and SLX RD
@@FoyeTroute AHHH thanks! I'll clean and inspect 🕵️♂️
Yeah i have xt 12 and its just etched in not painted on
@@FoyeTroute Yep I found it finally.
Interesting.. what if i use slx long cage with different cassette 50Teeth?
Same question.. Actually Using the 9-50 e thirteen..
@@Vric46 now using 11-50 teeth cassette from china brand sroad.. so far so good... also follow same procedure from this video..😅
Same, I run a sunrace 10/50 and have it on the line for perfect shifting
Thank you Buddy. Cheers
Extremely informative! Thanks!
I have a 12 speed 10-52T custom cassette, which is Deore, SLX, XT and XTR compatible. I also have the SGS SLX derailleur, I presume it's pretty much the same process? Good video btw.
my new 9100 XTR was a little off. Thank you
Long video to say "adjust the b screw"
And he did it all wrong because it was set up correctly the first time with 30% sag.
Trust
I followed this tutorial and my shifting is now flawless! I am glad he went through it thorougly.
Lol😂
An excuse to wear black gloves and waste 5 minutes
What about M6100 Deore?
Same concept but some bike mechanics don't know that try to read some Shimano users manual🫡
I think ur wrong for some stuff. For 8120 derailleur u need to measure 46 mm for single chain ring and for the double is the method of line up to the edge of the plate. Its written on shimano manual for this derailleur
Thanks for another fantastic video.
I have just checked this on my 12 speed slx. However, I can’t get my longest teeth to line up with the mark, even when I removed the bolt it was still a few millimetres out. Any ideas please? 🤔
Your chain may be too short, too much pull on the deraileur.
They are arrows without shafts. On my new bike the chain ring guide was on wrong. I wondered what the crappy noise was....
Very good info bro. Keep up the good work.
And for the 6100 Deore 10-51 ?!
there is also a line, but not painted so it's difficult to see.
@@joriz5869 tks 🤝
I use a 11-51 Sunrace cassete and the 6100. It doesn’t work right on the line, I had to adjust the pulley closer to the 51 cog, otherwise the 45 cog will be a bit noisy. And I’m positive, it’s not the index or a bent derailleur hanger.
does this apply to the 11-speed SLX derailleur? I just installed an 11-seped SLX groupset (SLX 7100) 2 days ago
And the sgs cage with 10 45?