We FAILED At Stud Removal On This John Deere B!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2023
- This week we did a bunch of cleaning preparation on a few projects that are making their way through the shop including a John Deere B, John Deere A, and a 1948 Hercules IXB3 out of a super rare 1948 Keller Super Chief!
Check Out @Junkyard_Dave for more info on the 1948 Keller Super Chief Restoration!
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Check out the 1948 Keller Super Chief restoration on Junkyard Dave’s channel! youtube.com/@Junkyard_Dave?si=jWAd3fO8biiLC0wI
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I just followed this link over to JY Dave’s channel and watched the episode where he brought you his engine. I loved your story about the TikTok where the Cleaning Guy first got his name and all the feedback you got! 😂 I’ve not heard that before and was thinking you should tell that one in one of your videos!
So cool you get to do the engine for Dave!
Born in '58 too. It's a classic year.
I am not sure if he told you but in his video he said that he wanted to bring it to Pikes Peak.
You've heard it thousands of times already, but you two are so lucky to work together like this. Great seeing a father and son doing stuff like this.
Nothing wrong with a longer video even if you don't get much "accomplished", because you do, very informative on what you are looking for and what possibly needs to be done
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@JAMSIONLINE
So what happened with the broken studs? Is the conclusion in the next video?
I cleaned rusty brake callipers by soaking in citric acid for a week. Vinegar also works but needs longer. The treated rust washed off but the underlying metal was fine.
Some of the stuck flaking rust had to be chipped off but the dip made that much easier.
Seized exhaust manifold studs come out easily after you’ve arc welded a nut to the stud fragment.
Cylinder studs go too deep for that to work. If a hammer driver won’t move them a machine might have to drill out the studs and clean the threads.
@@trendinvestor2893 The video says the parts are baking. Stud removal comes later.
I love watching people who enjoy their work and joke around, but who are completely professional and meticulous when it counts.
If the B block will clean up at .125 over you can get new pistons for $350 and shipping. It would run a lot better with more compression and might be cheaper than boring installing liners then reboring. I wouldn't use the old ones as they are worn everywhere. If you can find some late model B pistons they are 4 11/16 inch. We used them in the mid B's 30 years ago in our early tractor pulling days. But I couldn't locate any standard ones. Shims never assume they are correct as you are following someone elses work. Measure them and make them equal and install. Remove one shim on both sides till you have drag when rotated and put back one shim. Cranks are usually worn egg shaped and it very hard to use plasticgage on the old John Deeres. Mid B studs are not heat treated. Late B studs are. My brother has a machine shop and is in the process of making some studs out of Grade 8 bolts. I heat the studs where they go in the block till they are red hot let them cool a little bit then try and remove them. Usually works but pretty well does the stud in.
I've been a mechanic almost as long as your Cleaning man (I'm a 61 model)- and have heard of about a million ways to remove a rusted in stud.
Almost all have worked in a particular way, the hard part is finding the one that works best!
The times that I have had a stuck/broken stud I took the part to a Co. that did spark erosion cost me but was cheaper than the new cost of the part.
How about melting wax in the threads from a candle???
@@rdecoster1 A penetrant like WD40 is much thinner viscosity than melted wax - so if the penetrant can't infiltrate into the threaded portion, the melted wax certainly won't.
@@rdecoster1been proven over and over candle wax does nothing.
Kryoil
massive respect for you and your dad!!!
i am learning and relearning a lot from listening to you and your dad, and your dad is awesome for passing on what he knows to you, so that you can carry on with the family business
Went through the same thing on my 39 B. I replaced the head studs with a set from ARP. Called them and the guy said hey I may have something that will work. They are not a tapered thread like the original so had to use a good thread sealant. I heated and cooled a couple times using penetrant oil and they finally all came out. Ok now I see how it works. The more physical pain that is incurred the higher the labor rates go. Wow I can only imagine what it would cost if stitches are required during a repair...
My grandpa owned a local chain of auto parts stores. He started with his GI Bill after WWII. Fighting the 3rd day invasion of Normandy.
He said "an engine needs 5 things to run. Bang, boom, bust, blow and sometimes timing".
He also said close & sometimes only count in hand grenades, horseshoes and that three letter word that starts with S and Ends with X.
Whatever that means.
I wonder if JD suspended/reduced tractor production after the outbreak of World War II in late 41. When that engine was built the whole world was in turmoil. Many of the men in that factory were watching their sons leave home for basic/boot camp. Things aren’t great in our country right now but things have been worse for many who came before us.
Just to answer your question about JD production in WW2- the answer is: Sorta
(2,190) High Speed 7-ton M2 Tractors, (5,270) Armored M8 Trailers, (22,000) transmissions and final drive assemblies for M3 and M4 medium tanks, ammunition ( Most likely shells or shell casings.), mobile laundry units and aircraft parts. John Deere had over 1,000 military contracts during the war.
The "high speed 7 ton tractor" is a Cletrac designed crawler tractor. JD produced about 25% of the roughly 8500 built
Agricultural exemption. Soldiers first need was food. Tires for cars were rationed so my grandpa, a farmer, needed new tires for his cattle trailer. Same size as for his car. So the old car tires went on the trailer, new tires bought for the trailer went on the car.
torque multiplier tool on the studs wouldn't help?
like using low range 1st instead of high range second
@@iwaswrongabouteveryhthing have to worry about breaking the studs
@@iwaswrongabouteveryhthingi was taught by an old mechanic colleague of my dads, the always try to tighten any bolt that's likely to be seized. Sometimes they snap off most times not lol then try to undo if no go then try sequence again with some penetrating oil. Best I've found is 50:50 ATF and WD40. If no WD at hand 100% ATF and leave to soak for a couple of hours if heat available heat block then apply the penetrating fluid and leave, it will be pulled in as it cools. Then start again tighten then try to undo. At least 85-90% of the time I have managed to get the studs or threaded fasteners out. Obviously bolts are a lot harder as the penetrating oil has a convoluted route to get to the threads.
I have a suspicion the cleaning guy might make a great teacher. 👍 from someone else that likes to do things properly, thankyou. Its always a pleasure to watch. ❤
Holy smokes i just realized Jim has a set of guns on him.
Way to go making healthy life choices bro! And thanks for the great content gang.
He’s got the old man strength
I've been spending a lot of time lately hanging out with my dad, working on old stuff. Always makes me think of you two. Love watching y'all!
youre lucky.i only work with mine when i have to not because i want,i wont listen constantly screaming and cursing at me for no reason
@@youneverknow111 Man, I hate that for you. I hope you're breaking the cycle.
The manifold studs are a special tapered thread. H&J Machining in Carrington ND will have the bolts along with rings and valves and guides
We had to pull the head studs from our JD D, they were 3/4 inch, 8 inches long. The local machine shop didn't want to do it themselves due to ruining a D block doing it years prior Took a stud puller on an impact, and a pipe wrench at the same time, tight every rotation until they were out. Definitely a dicey proposition.
Cleaning guy is the true gem of the shop... smart guy! Take in all that knowledge!!
Love this video format and watching you two work together.
Like to see the old john deeres being brought back in working order.
I agree but I'm a little biased, I've got a lot of hours on an old "A" model pulling a tandem disc.
It is so nice watching a father and son working together enjoying what they are doing. And doing top quality work.
You guys are the pros! no DIY here , I worked as an industrial mechanic for 25 years .A lot of our equipment fell off the Mayflower and washed up on shore!!! We often worked with the machine shop ,pulling gears , getting out broke off studs etc. The machine shop super had a saying "put some heat on it " get the map gas out and the rose bud tip !
I am a 1958 model as well. I had to get a 58 Pan Head as the motorized item as old as me.
This was a very interesting video restoring old John Deere and Hercules engines. Looking forward to seeing the next video
most people wont show when things go bad on here , keep up the good work
This is a trick my grandfather showed me when working on old cast iron heads and blocks with studs or bolts ,if you have an old oven heat it to 450 degrees and put the head in for about 30 minutes and the studs should come out a little better
I worked in a shop rebuilding blowers and pumps, and that's how we expanded a lot of bearing races and gears to install them
…and then flip that heated up B block upside down in a tray full of ice water 3-4” deep and shock-cool just the shank of the studs.
I see on the bench you have a set of jugs for a Moline R or Z. I would love to see how you refurbish those. I was told by a local shop they could not work on them since they are a blind cylinder and can't hone the cylinders.
Might have to ship mine to CO 😊.
They’re a PITA! They’ve been sitting there a couple years 🤦♂️ we really need to just do them.
for rusty parts like the cooling passages, you can pour apple cider vinegar in it and let sit for a day or two and it cleans it out, the alternate to that Ospho is the Kleen strip metal and concrete etch at home depot.
KD manufacturing no 875 is the best thing expander I’ve ever used, worked in a really old machine shop when I was in high school and the old man had one ended up finding one for myself probably 10 years later on eBay after using all the junk ones like u guys got there.
Ain't nothin' better than a thing expander!
i bought a ring expander from snap on that actually spreads flat instead of in an arc which is super handy... probably wouldnt work as well on those super wide rings though
I love the fact of a father and son duo. It is so wholesome to see old values in todays society. I enjoy all of your content and knowledge.
I use SnapOn compound snap ring pliers for rings on piston and transmission parts.
Your father has the patience of jobe to deal with old seized stuff and he is a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for taking us along
Saving an old John Deere is a noble mission.
I really enjoy the Sundays with u guys. Looking forward to those dyno comparisons.
14👍's up JAMS thank you for sharing 😎
Another great video, ,,, I hope the cleaning guy got that splinter out,,, thanks guys, looking forward to seeing these old tractor engines come together, and the dyno challenge,,,, I think the 2nd engine won't be far behind the original in hp and torque
I love the disassembly and autopsy videos.
Every four-stroke engine still uses, Suck, Squeeze, Pop, Phooey to run. They all have a piston sliding through a bore for displacement and piston rings for sealing. And they all use some form of valving to get air in and out of the cylinder. Regarding blood, old mechanic once told me, "You need to be able to curse in the language where the stuff came from, and to be able to ignore minor arterial bleeding." I do like your idea of charging per bleeding episode.
love this channel, so wholesome ☺️
I love how you guys know so much about engines. Many hours, over the years, of accumulating knowledge tried and failed. I also like how humble you guys are, even admitting to a problem that may have been of your making. Thanks for the great SHOW!!
I grew up in my family’s auto parts store. We had a “machine shop”, I put that in quotes because things surly have changed after seeing your equipment. Other than our old head resurfacer the part I hated the most were putting the springs back on GM’s with the o’ring valve seal. You guy’s would cringe at our old setup. During the 60’s engines gave us a lot of grace.
I love the disassembly and autopsy videos.. Love this video format and watching you two work together..
I enjoy watching you guys work. I was at a car cruise in yesterday and saw a 58 studebacker with a flat head 6.
Real interesting stuff coming up for sure. Can't wait.
Keep up the good work. Love the videos keep them coming!!!
Just found the channel, love the stories/explanation that the experienced guy tells. Really cool!
Anything you post is Interesting to me ! Please keep it up and thanks for sharing !
Great videos...very informative .....I was wondering if you have any videos of the engines you guys build running?
another good on e guys,showing what your up against with old studs etc.
Great video guys, awesome seeing all the things that you guys find, fix, and show us here. Always interesting to see it all. Good to see the cleaning guy is doing a great job as well. My dad is a 1957 model, April 12 to be precise.
Junkyard dave is a very talented guy. Cool to see your working with him.
Enjoyed watching the comings and goings in the workshop, very much impressed by your dad's experience with the old engines. 🥇 Those old engines are quaint but chasing parts can be a challenge. Thanks for posting.☘
Love watching you guys work on the John Deere parts especially the the 2 cylinders. I have 2 of them. Thanks keep up the good work.
Man i sure love watching you two. Yo6 guys are so awesome.
I’m loving your channel guys 👍
It’s so refreshing to see someone just talking about their work (the good and the bad) while offering genuine advice and information and not just blowing smoke out of their own a** 😂👍👍
Hi Jim ! I have started telling people not to take anything apart until they have all the needed parts for a complete repair for real found. I have a project that I can’t get gaskets for that was disassembled.
What's the project?
John Deere buck utility 2005
@@artpendergraft4989you can buy gasket material sheet
@@artpendergraft4989you can make any gasket with that and rtv lol except a head gasket
Thanks for your video. I am way past rebuilding engines but your videos are interesting enough to watch until the end.
Famous last words" I think this gear I'll come off quite easy" followed by " son of a bleeeeep"
Had me rolling up.
Great work fellas
It's a PINCH BOLT not cinch lol coz it pinches the gudgeon pin ( sorry I'm English and that's what we call what you call the wrist pin)
What an awesome opportunity to straighten up this old technology!
Ok, ok, I'll admit I was on the John while watching and with earbuds in. When that crank gear came loose _'Bang'_ 💥 like that I yelled and jumped completely off the seat! 😂
I can only wish I had a Dad like Jim.
This video was awesome and hit home since my grandfather just finished a B this past spring. I believe this was his last restoration because of his health. I got to spend much needed time with him on this rebuild. I love the radiator canvas for the cover and the hand crank to start it.
I have become completely addicted to your channel thank you so much for taking the time to put these videos out while running a successful business it much appreciated take care stay safe and may your God bless you always 🙋♂️🇬🇧🇺🇸
I just love those big iron pistons. So solid.
Nice video, you guys are a great team. I also charge customers extra for injuries. Fortunately it rarely happens.
Great job guys. Bore the chamber part of the cylinder a few though bigger so you have less to hone.
At one time i had over 55 JD 2 cylinders all ran too. Needs less to say i had to spend tons rebuilding these. But they were made to be redone in the field, super simple, and not to mention having the hand clutch. I can change the clutch out on one in 15 minutes and be back running.
I sold all but six of the heard off as i got older but you can’t beat the sound of the big two cylinder. If you think those little jugs are big look up the model D specs.
Hi Jim, I'm not going to attempt to teach an "old dog" new tricks but I'm fourteen years older than you if that makes a difference. Removing studs has always been a bug of mine especially exhaust manifold bolts and studs. A technique I've used often and successfully is to heat the area with a propane torch until its too hot to touch, then while its hot but the torch is out, spray the joint of the stud/block with liberal amounts of WD 40. It'll smoke like hell so you need fresh air available. Wait until the smoking stops and gently try to move the stud. If the rapid cooling has worked it will have released whatever was gluing up the works, allowed some of the lubricant into the joint and hopefully the stud comes out with little extra force. If it won't move, rinse and repeat. I've seldom broken one but as you said in the video your best tool is patience. Good luck and thanks for the videos. Very informative.
Regards from Canada's banana belt.🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊️🇺🇲👍
Glad to see the shop busy with lots of projects!
We always have more than we can handle going on lol
@@JAMSIONLINE that’s the sign of a well run business! In demand!
Hi, I did a mostly stock Vortec headed (1.6 ex valve) that made 504HP with a Crane 111451 cam.
I just did 1 a few months ago for a customer and it was used as a state hight way tractor for Mississippi and it’s almost a Allis chalmers orange factory color, very fun build
The father is such a sweet man. 💕
Happy to see your on David’s engine 🎉🎉 , I was happy to see you work with him , I’m a sub on both channels , 🎉🎉
I saw that Keller Super Chief video months ago, crazy to see the engine show up here!
Couple of Stud Muffins getting it done! Thanks for the video....
Here's what you do for stuck studs. As you hammer on them, yell loudly " If these things come out, we're screwed, and how!" Works for me.😅😅
Very interesting channel, been following for a time, got to confess, I will be 60 this year, watching this makes me miss, dad, my best friend, gone for almost 40 years now.
I only just noticed that you cleaning guy has an awesome head of hair. You need to show him more respect! All hail the hair.
Lol y'all go back and forth between loving his hair and hating it! Depending on how recent he went to the barber haha
How about doing a Continental F162 or F163? They where used in Tractors, Forklifts & most commonly Lincoln SA-200 welders. I’m thinking of doing a SA-200 after I retire.
Dangit now im hooked. You guys rock
The machinist Ive hired to work on my engine use a cleaning solution with acid and a paint stripper. Cleans everything out rust and all. The blocks usually come out looking like brand new cadtings. Such an amazing color that spotless light gray cast iron.
My block was one of those rare blocks where the paint didnt come off but all the cooling channels etc came out spotless.
Last time I was in his shop he had 14 v8 engines he was working on with blocks looking like that.
Seems to me that such a cleaning solution is worth looking into.
One of the problems with applying heat is that the expansion does not always work for you. I think in that case, the heat locally applied to the area around the bolt actually made it tighter.
With that valve spring compressor if you put just slightly pressure on the spring and hit jaw with brass hammer the spring will collapse without keepers flying everywhere. Takes minimum pressure.
12:57 hazet does ( it’s one that grabs 3/4 of the piston ring ) . The type of expander you use now puts all the stress on a point on the opposite side . If the piston ring is coated it may cause the coating to chip ( Mahle and kolbensmidt made good videos on the correct piston ring installation )
I got a lot of studs out by heating the stud red hot then poured water on the stud or used a crayon on it the water or wax cooled it rapidly shrinking it just like welding on a valve seat does. Mostly used water on exhaust manifold or if I used it on something like the JD block would have it horizontal so it didn't hit the block and cool it too quick. That's where the crayon works good because the wax will flow down around the threads lubricating them as is cools the stud. Give it a try.
Good stuff boys. Fun to follow 😅
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Delta does good work, got one of their cams in my MGB.
I didn't expect to see the Keller engine in this video, glad to see it's in good hands.
Another great video!
Put some Kroil on those studs!
Had some on there lol
I wouldn't say you've failed at the stud removal...I'd say that you just haven't succeeded yet! :) Love the vids, especially the older interesting stuff like this!
We just did one like this where I work and we welded a nut on the end of the stud and put a really big breaker bar and also a pipe wrench on the stud and it took two people to break them loose
Ive never seen pinch bolt's on the small end like that. Very cool!
Excellent video!
Your videos are never boring. I like the impact stud removal tool! What brand is it? Dad wears impact safety glasses while working around the press. 😉. Great job guys!
My first car is of the same year I was born, and it wasnt intentional. I had bought it two days before I started my first job after finishing a course at Job Corps. Im kinda between fixing the fuel rail (properly, ive got rescue tape on it) so it stops leaking fuel on the engine and selling it, or trying to swap in a newer transverse engine and making it a little hot rodder
Congratulations at finishing a course at Job Corps and getting employment soon after. I taught Electrical Construction at the one at San Marcos, TX.
The herk ixb3 was used in almost every small engine application from army Jeeps to entry level speed boats from the late 30s to the early 60s. It made 35 horsepower
And yet hard to find parts for lol
I just went thru this with one stud on my Austin Healey 948. Broke one stud taking it out and had to use the mill and a tap to remove the broken part.
Delta is one of my favorite shops. I have a cam ground by them in almost every vehicle I own
Gentlemen, I love this channel! I just subscribed. Those rust-frozen stud bolts woulda been child’s play for the “Heat and Quench” method. All it takes is an oxy torch and cold water.