Excellent job in showing the steps taken with succinct instructions. No wasted time, unlike most other camera disassembly videos. Very helpful. Hope you would make a video on how to properly clean the mechanical parts of the shutter assembly, and the inside of the Canon Speed Finder.
Although getting into the shutter mechanism functionality would make for a fairly involved video it still could be the possible subject of a future FOC video.
Very nice demonstration. This camera looks like it is very well designed and built. Why not clean the camera when it is open and inner parts are accessible?
I always look forward to your videos, especially when about (IMO) the best Canon ever made, The F1, all versions. With all that tear-down work it would have been great if you did install a diode. Keep in mind if you ever want to get into a Canon F1 EE Servo Finder and or a Canon F1 Booster Finder I've got a few non-working ones I'd be glad to send to you. I have service info too. Just a thought, Winter's coming. THANKS Tom (P.S) Offer only to Fix Old Cam.
I have an original old Canon F1 from 1973. It works perfectly except that the shutter speed displayed at the bottom of the meter display doesn't work. Can this be fixed with a replacement prism finder or is the circuitry inside the camera body? Great channel by the way!
Thanks for this informative and highly entertaining video. I opened up an F-1 with metering issues but was not able to fix it. The meter of this particular one shows overexposure in bright light and underexposure in low light. Any ideas what could be wrong with it (adjusting the meter-resistor doesen't help)?
What battery are you using a sr44 or lr 44 will give wrong readings .Even the 1.4 hearing aid batteries can give wrong readings but also the top and bottom scale of the meter will begin to fail if its the meter itself
@rugerluver1: I am using 1,4V hearing aid batteries and get very precise readings on my other F-1 Body so this should not be the problem. On my F-1 there are two variable resistors. On is for the battery-test and the other is somehow adjusting the linearity of the light meter.
The variable resistor in the meter circuit is for the battery test function of the circuit only. There are no electronic meter adjustments built into the original F-1. You can tweak the hairspring of the galvanometer, but that would not help the issue you describe. It sounds like maybe the cds cell has lost some sensitivity. It is not overly difficult to access as it sets to the back of the viewfinder screen frame. Probably the most difficult part of the repair will be finding a replacement cds cell if the original proves to be faulty.
You have a later version if you have the linear meter adjustment potentiometer. The issue is still probably caused by cds cell that have lost sensitivity.
Hey! My recently purchased F1 meter is not functional at all. I have a 1.5v in it now and does nothing. Would the recommended 1.4v work? If not, whats the next best option? Thanks in advance
Completely dead? Check for battery voltage at the different points on the circuit including switch(power in/power out). Check for open CDS cells. Check for shorted galvanometer. But to begin with check the obvious (which you probably have), good battery, clean battery contacts and positive battery wire connection.
@@FixOldCameras Thank you for the quick response! Everything is clean, I may have to look into this further to figure out if its the CDS cells or the galvanometer
I have an f-1 but i'm unsure if the meter inside is accurate... So I use a sekonic broadcaster light meter, and I must say the results are stunning. The hearing aid batteries run out too fast, especially when you forget to turn the meter switch off.
Thank you for your comments. As of yet not a FOC video featuring the Canon ft d prism access and removal, but links to videos that cover prism removal on other models... th-cam.com/video/y6ehEPbOiRc/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/Y_WOwee8Qhw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/HHmJQ86nRYQ/w-d-xo.html
thaks a lot for your camworks yo make a fantastic videos. i see you for a few years and all our videos are fantastic, please continue like these. congratulations.(sorry for my bad einglish) ;)
The film rewind knob of my F1 does not appear to be threaded onto the shaft. Rather, it looks like it is pressed onto the shaft in some manner. Any idea how I might remove it from the shaft? Also, the spanner screw of the light meter switch doesn't want to budge very easily. I assume it is just a matter of applying enough torque to get the screw to budge? Excellent tutorial, by the way.
It is threaded on. It is possible that the camera has never been disassembled and the original thread glue causing the issue. Seep alcohol around the threads. Apply heat to the rewind shaft by the threads with the tip of a soldering iron. Let it rest in that position for several minutes. Of course, be mindful of any plastic parts coming in contact with the tip of the hot iron. The same can be done with the spanner screw. Apply the heat to the face of the screw.
Hey! Nice Video. My meter isnt working at all. I already cleaned all contacts related to the meter/battery. What else can I do? I really want to shoot with the internal meter.
I just got my F1 in the mail. I put in a 675 battery but the light meter isn't moving at all. What do you think is the most common cause of this? How can i troubleshoot to locate the problem? Please help 😅
Thank for your continuing support and fun comments. And well shoot, seems that FOC harmonica riff BBQ Blues just won’t go away, it had been awhile since it last showed up in a video. Maybe in a future video if there is dead air space it will be filled with a little lame scat singing… as in rhythmic vocal improvisation with nonsense syllables like… mmuum, mum, mum, mum, da, da, dun, da, dun,,, maybe to the melody of Elvis’s version of “I Was Born About Ten Thousand Years Ago” aka the “Bragging Song” or maybe... Hey I was born a long time ago, not a thing about cameras I don’t know, I ‘ve seen Argus to Zenit and all those in between, and I greased their gears with a dob of vass-o-leen. et cetera, et cetera… one funky, quirky verse after another... just have to wait and see, you just never know what might show up in a future FOC video...
I would love to see a Minolta XE-5/7 disassembly instead. I have one with a broken on/off switch, so the light meter cannot be turned off. Anyhow keep up the work, your videos are great! Thx.
That would make an excellent choice for the subject of a FOC video. As great as those cameras are they are notorious for the failure of the external lever of the meter switch. It is a simple part to replace if a replacement can be found. Remove the spanner screw for the switch and replace. The trick to that repair is to fashion a DIY replacement when the original part cannot be retained.
Accessing the the battery wire and contact takes some doing, but finding a home to nestle it into might be a bit easier as the bottom area of the camera is indeed a little roomier.
Not sure what's the problem here but when I lock the rewind forkm the knob will not turn/unscrew. I've tried applying quite a good pressure but no luck.
Be careful, too much pressure could break the rewind fork. Try seeping some solvent around the threads of the knob. Apply heat from a soldering iron tip, always being mindful of the plastic parts of the camera.(hot iron plus plastic equals instant ugly) Also, not to be mister obvious, but make sure you are turning the knob in the opposite direction of the the rewind arrow.
I have an unusual problem with Canon T90. When i put the batteries i get 'bc' message on lcd and nothing else, no shutter, no lights on viewfinder. Also i noticed that when i press the step down lever mechanism seems to be working but lenses won't step down, also i can't push the mirror upwards, which can be done on working T90 without a problem. I think there might be a problem with mirror box. How can i fix this ? Thank you
A simple fix does not come to mind. You are probably correct in your evaluation of the mirror lift and aperture stop down being part of the issue. But, there is a good chance there are some purely electronic issues also.
Rather than force the mirror, try taking the bottom cover off and see if you can turn the wind gears through the cycle using a gentle nudge. Be careful that you do not break a gear tooth on the plastic gears. Perhaps that will be enough to get in back on cycle for now.
Hi i'm looking to clean my nFD 85mm 1.8. I'm able to get past first element but stuck in other ones, how do reach the other elementts ? There is nothing i can unscrew. This forum demonstrates with pics where i'm stuck at www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3293179#forum-post-50176518 Also my lens won't focus to infinity. What should i do ? I tried to adjust it by removing the focus ring like old FD lenses however i can't do that either. Thank you for your help and this amazing channel.
To remove the center lens group, began by floating the retainer with a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol. Be careful not to allow the alcohol to migrate beyond the retainer. Then block one end of the retainer at the spacing and lift out on the other end with a dental pic style probe.
Make sure that you have a good clean battery connection, for even a light film of corrosion will block current flow and prevent the electronic release from working. Also check this - th-cam.com/video/XwKnW1dMEtA/w-d-xo.html
![[UNCUT]"ทนายตั้ม" แฉยับ! ความลับสวรรค์ ใครคือ "บิ๊กเทวดา" ของบอสพอล l คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ l 15 ต.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ru9fpSaUwdA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for all the videos you post, they are very helpful and still entertaining.
Excellent job in showing the steps taken with succinct instructions. No wasted time, unlike most other camera disassembly videos. Very helpful. Hope you would make a video on how to properly clean the mechanical parts of the shutter assembly, and the inside of the Canon Speed Finder.
Although getting into the shutter mechanism functionality would make for a fairly involved video it still could be the possible subject of a future FOC video.
Very nice demonstration. This camera looks like it is very well designed and built. Why not clean the camera when it is open and inner parts are accessible?
Thanks for the great comments and your long interest in Fix Old Cameras.
I always look forward to your videos, especially when about (IMO) the best Canon ever made, The F1, all versions. With all that tear-down work it would have been great if you did install a diode. Keep in mind if you ever want to get into a Canon F1 EE Servo Finder and or a Canon F1 Booster Finder I've got a few non-working ones I'd be glad to send to you. I have service info too. Just a thought, Winter's coming. THANKS Tom (P.S) Offer only to Fix Old Cam.
Maybe a diode install for the original F-1 in a future video. Thank you for your comments and long support of FOC.
Great, and you REALLY NEED to check those F1 Prisms. LOL.
@@FixOldCameras please do it
I have an original old Canon F1 from 1973.
It works perfectly except that the shutter speed displayed at the bottom of the meter display doesn't work.
Can this be fixed with a replacement prism finder or is the circuitry inside the camera body?
Great channel by the way!
Love these videos, just watching them to admire the mechanical work!
Indeed, some of these classic cameras are elegant in design as well as function.
Awesome video. I like your sense of humor
Thanks for this informative and highly entertaining video. I opened up an F-1 with metering issues but was not able to fix it. The meter of this particular one shows overexposure in bright light and underexposure in low light. Any ideas what could be wrong with it (adjusting the meter-resistor doesen't help)?
What battery are you using a sr44 or lr 44 will give wrong readings .Even the 1.4 hearing aid batteries can give wrong readings but also the top and bottom scale of the meter will begin to fail if its the meter itself
Adjusting the resistor is only meant for the reading on battery test ISO 100 and 2000 on speed
@rugerluver1: I am using 1,4V hearing aid batteries and get very precise readings on my other F-1 Body so this should not be the problem. On my F-1 there are two variable resistors. On is for the battery-test and the other is somehow adjusting the linearity of the light meter.
The variable resistor in the meter circuit is for the battery test function of the circuit only. There are no electronic meter adjustments built into the original F-1. You can tweak the hairspring of the galvanometer, but that would not help the issue you describe. It sounds like maybe the cds cell has lost some sensitivity. It is not overly difficult to access as it sets to the back of the viewfinder screen frame. Probably the most difficult part of the repair will be finding a replacement cds cell if the original proves to be faulty.
You have a later version if you have the linear meter adjustment potentiometer. The issue is still probably caused by cds cell that have lost sensitivity.
Hey! My recently purchased F1 meter is not functional at all. I have a 1.5v in it now and does nothing. Would the recommended 1.4v work? If not, whats the next best option? Thanks in advance
Completely dead? Check for battery voltage at the different points on the circuit including switch(power in/power out). Check for open CDS cells. Check for shorted galvanometer. But to begin with check the obvious (which you probably have), good battery, clean battery contacts and positive battery wire connection.
@@FixOldCameras Thank you for the quick response! Everything is clean, I may have to look into this further to figure out if its the CDS cells or the galvanometer
@@RobbieMaynardCreates did you fix it?
I have an f-1 but i'm unsure if the meter inside is accurate... So I use a sekonic broadcaster light meter, and I must say the results are stunning.
The hearing aid batteries run out too fast, especially when you forget to turn the meter switch off.
Good to hear you are getting great results using the hand held meter. Makes for a fun picture taking outing.
... and yes the zinc air batteries big knock against them is their short life once they are put into service.
Always thank you for so much helpful contents. Could you please let us know how to clean prism. Especially canon ft d
Thank you for your comments. As of yet not a FOC video featuring the Canon ft d prism access and removal, but links to videos that cover prism removal on other models...
th-cam.com/video/y6ehEPbOiRc/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/Y_WOwee8Qhw/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/HHmJQ86nRYQ/w-d-xo.html
thaks a lot for your camworks yo make a fantastic videos. i see you for a few years and all our videos are fantastic, please continue like these. congratulations.(sorry for my bad einglish) ;)
The film rewind knob of my F1 does not appear to be threaded onto the shaft. Rather, it looks like it is pressed onto the shaft in some manner. Any idea how I might remove it from the shaft? Also, the spanner screw of the light meter switch doesn't want to budge very easily. I assume it is just a matter of applying enough torque to get the screw to budge?
Excellent tutorial, by the way.
It is threaded on. It is possible that the camera has never been disassembled and the original thread glue causing the issue. Seep alcohol around the threads. Apply heat to the rewind shaft by the threads with the tip of a soldering iron. Let it rest in that position for several minutes. Of course, be mindful of any plastic parts coming in contact with the tip of the hot iron. The same can be done with the spanner screw. Apply the heat to the face of the screw.
Thanks ....follow your instructions I fixed my F1.
Very good to hear of your success.
Hey! Nice Video. My meter isnt working at all. I already cleaned all contacts related to the meter/battery. What else can I do? I really want to shoot with the internal meter.
did you fix it?
Excellent. So that's a *magnetic* cross-point screwdriver, then..?
Right on. Thanks for the great comment.
Any idea why the battery check function and light meter would function with the film back open a hair, but not function when latched shut?
Lovely old camera that deserves tlc.
Indeed it is. As always thank you for the comment and your continued support of FOC.
I just got my F1 in the mail. I put in a 675 battery but the light meter isn't moving at all. What do you think is the most common cause of this? How can i troubleshoot to locate the problem?
Please help 😅
did you fix it. mine just moves a bit on the battery check circuit, but nothing with the meter
Thank god there is no music this time!! :)
Thank for your continuing support and fun comments. And well shoot, seems that FOC harmonica riff BBQ Blues just won’t go away, it had been awhile since it last showed up in a video. Maybe in a future video if there is dead air space it will be filled with a little lame scat singing… as in rhythmic vocal improvisation with nonsense syllables like…
mmuum, mum, mum, mum, da, da, dun, da, dun,,, maybe to the melody of Elvis’s version of “I Was Born About Ten Thousand Years Ago” aka the “Bragging Song” or maybe...
Hey I was born a long time ago, not a thing about cameras I don’t know,
I ‘ve seen Argus to Zenit and all those in between,
and I greased their gears with a dob of vass-o-leen.
et cetera, et cetera… one funky, quirky verse after another... just have to wait and see, you just never know what might show up in a future FOC video...
I would love to see a Minolta XE-5/7 disassembly instead. I have one with a broken on/off switch, so the light meter cannot be turned off. Anyhow keep up the work, your videos are great! Thx.
That would make an excellent choice for the subject of a FOC video. As great as those cameras are they are notorious for the failure of the external lever of the meter switch. It is a simple part to replace if a replacement can be found. Remove the spanner screw for the switch and replace. The trick to that repair is to fashion a DIY replacement when the original part cannot be retained.
Wouldnt the voltage dropping diode be better fitted near the battery compartment underneath
Accessing the the battery wire and contact takes some doing, but finding a home to nestle it into might be a bit easier as the bottom area of the camera is indeed a little roomier.
Not sure what's the problem here but when I lock the rewind forkm the knob will not turn/unscrew. I've tried applying quite a good pressure but no luck.
Be careful, too much pressure could break the rewind fork. Try seeping some solvent around the threads of the knob. Apply heat from a soldering iron tip, always being mindful of the plastic parts of the camera.(hot iron plus plastic equals instant ugly) Also, not to be mister obvious, but make sure you are turning the knob in the opposite direction of the the rewind arrow.
I have an unusual problem with Canon T90. When i put the batteries i get 'bc' message on lcd and nothing else, no shutter, no lights on viewfinder. Also i noticed that when i press the step down lever mechanism seems to be working but lenses won't step down, also i can't push the mirror upwards, which can be done on working T90 without a problem. I think there might be a problem with mirror box. How can i fix this ? Thank you
A simple fix does not come to mind. You are probably correct in your evaluation of the mirror lift and aperture stop down being part of the issue. But, there is a good chance there are some purely electronic issues also.
Mirror goes half-way up. Would i break something if i force it up ? What's the correct way to free the mirror ?
Rather than force the mirror, try taking the bottom cover off and see if you can turn the wind gears through the cycle using a gentle nudge. Be careful that you do not break a gear tooth on the plastic gears. Perhaps that will be enough to get in back on cycle for now.
Fix Old Cameras I tried that but gears have no resistance, they seem like turning empty without attached to anything.
Nice precise mechanical work there!
Could have emphasized a bit more on the use of magnetized screwdriver though ;)
Thank you for the fun comment and your interest in FOC.
Hi i'm looking to clean my nFD 85mm 1.8. I'm able to get past first element but stuck in other ones, how do reach the other elementts ? There is nothing i can unscrew. This forum demonstrates with pics where i'm stuck at www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3293179#forum-post-50176518
Also my lens won't focus to infinity. What should i do ? I tried to adjust it by removing the focus ring like old FD lenses however i can't do that either.
Thank you for your help and this amazing channel.
To remove the center lens group, began by floating the retainer with a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol. Be careful not to allow the alcohol to migrate beyond the retainer. Then block one end of the retainer at the spacing and lift out on the other end with a dental pic style probe.
Minolta x 700 is a famous camera, my one turn on but not shoot : (
Make sure that you have a good clean battery connection, for even a light film of corrosion will block current flow and prevent the electronic release from working. Also check this - th-cam.com/video/XwKnW1dMEtA/w-d-xo.html
holy moly how high is your i q thank you 4 youre help
too funny... that would of course depend on what we make IQ stand for...