Fix Old Cameras: Canon AE 1 ASA Linkage Wire Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Canon AE-1 with a shutter that locks open upon release. This video shows how to repair and correct a common cause of a shutter malfunction on The Canon AE-1. The shutter will lock open up on release and complete the cycle when the battery is removed. The ASA linkage wire breaks or slips a pulley and becomes entangled with in the contacts. This video shows are to install a replacement ASA wire linkage assembly.
classic camera repair - www.phototronic...
A few tools and books - www.amazon.com...
Best. Narration. Ever.
Thank you for your comment and interest in FOC.
I was a little sad when the video ended.
This is a really fantastic tutorial. I took my AE1 into a repair place around 1996 to oil the shutter & do shutter speed calibration before a trip to Europe. The "Serviced" camera had a lot of debris in the viewfinder, so I dismantled it to do some cleaning. Short story long, I bought an F1n from KEH store in Dallas to take on my trip. The AE1 has a waxed nylon thread with an improvised aluminum foil clip-retainer. I've wanted for years to tear into it and do a proper repair. Doggonit, this video has inspired me!
I swear, this video alone is one of the BEST repair videos I've ever watched. A true repair experience, narrated perfectly.
Also, this is inspiring me to make an attempt to repair my AE-1! Thanks for making this video!
Perfectly shown, thank you so much. I almost gave up on my AE-1 after opening it up once and seemingly damaging in it even more. Turned out that I had tangled up the wire in a way it wasn't supposed to be, in addition to putting the shutter speed and ASA dial back together the wrong way. Thank you thank you thank you!!!
I just had a AE-1 that showed constant underexposure. After removing the top plate I saw, that the ASA linkage wire was torn and I successfully replaced it with the help of this video. Thank you again!
P.S. Those videos are very entertaining. I wonder if anybody who doesn't even consider repairing a camera watches it just for entertainment :)
Good to hear of your success, and it brings a smile to know that you get even a modicum of entertainment from FOC. Greatly appreciate your fine words of support and your interest in Fix Old Cameras. Keep'em going.
You helped me so much! Last week i changed the battery door and today i had this problem and not even an hour later it was fixed thanks to you. I thought i had to buy a new camera :D
Thank you for your Canon AE-1 battery door video and this linkage wire video that popped off when my big thumbs knocked it loose. Thanks for showing me that everyone can face a "problematic" wire like this. My camera is all back together and working.
Excellent to hear of your success.
I like the macro in your movies. I can see exactly the various mechanisms of the camera during the dismantling of individual sections during the repair.
Thank you. That is the goal of Fix Old Cameras. There are so many more up-close and detailed movies to be made. It is somewhat frustrating that FOC can not manage to even come close to keeping up with all the great suggestions and questions for classic camera repair.
Thank you so much for that great, step by step instruction. Regards to you, my Canon Ae-1 has backed to life!
HELP PLEASE !
Brilliant video. Thank you for the clarity and the precision.
Successfully replaced the linkage wire and all seems mechanically sound, though now my meter is way off.
I've tried quite a few things including playing with the alignment of the metal pointer found under the wire spool, but no luck.
Hoping someone on here can help. Thank you!
Thanks when i put the wire back together i had it at 400 speed and B just took it apart reset the speed to 3200 and B everything seems to be working good thanks for all your help and support and for all the wonderful videos you post
Perfect. Good to hear of your successful repair
I've waddled through this particular repair many times. Fortunately my wire was always popped off the pulleys and not frayed or broken. Even changing the eyepiece or almost any top cover removal results in the wire popping out of the pulleys. The design is pretty poor but when you think about it, there is really no high tension in the system nor any way to put undue force on the asa, or speed change. Unlike the rewind or winding system which can be ruined by undue force when winding or rewinding. After all, radio dials used a cord based tuning system for many years. Some Argus cameras (The Autronics & C44) used radio tuning cord to cock the shutter, now that was a poor design for sure. I think this is one of the best tutorials you've done on the AE-1 ASA linkage and if I'm not mistaken its used on all the "A" series Canons. Great job on the video. Senior Moments always excused. LOL. Best wishes to all, TOM
Great comments as always. Thanks for you continued interest in FOC and your patience with this narrator.
This video really captured the frustration of camera repair. 😂
I change tis with a Tubertini fishing line 0.185 mm/4,950 kg and is OK .
Bueno is an sugestion and not more expensive .
Thank you for this video , realy a good work .
Great! I am very grateful to you, now I managed to repair my canon!
Very good.
Hi, greetings from spain, this video has been very helpful, I`m working with my camera and I think it has this problem, at first i will try this, next I have to fix my 50mm 1.4, I`ve seen your video about that so thank you for you effort, bye!!! (sorry for my bad english jeje)
Thank you for you interest in FOC.
Great video ! Thanks a lot... We know many things from your videos. Most useful to me to maintain my Camera .
Good to hear. Thank you for your support.
I managed to repair my AE1 with this video but in my case the linkage wire was only a bit too loose. I wrapped it around the tab that holds it two more times to take up the slack and put it back together and it was good.
Good to hear of your successful repair.
the insideeeeee
crazyyy
so cool
I found the brass clip retainer broken. How i can do? Thank you very much for all this videos!
That's one silly design. Well done on keeping your patience intact.
Of course all the swear words were edited...
@@FixOldCameras hahahahaha
I've encountered this issue with my AE-1. The wire maybe too short for me to reconnect it. How do I know where to align the wheel on the excentric screw side so that it's calibrated correctly? Thanks for the video, 3 years later it's still helping people!
The length of the link wire once installed on the pulley and resistor pulley should be 19.8cm to no more than 20.2cm. Start with a length of 26cm to 28cm and wrap it around the tab on the resistor pulley. Once secured with glue trim the remaining length to 22cm and attach the brass clip at 20cm. Any adjustment in length at this point should be made with the adjustment eccentric on the resistor pulley. If the wire is damage beyond use then a donor camera would be the best option. Or substitute Kevlar fishing line. You will need to start with around 28cm. The length of the tungsten wire from brass connector clip to where the line wraps around the ASA resistor ring connection point is approximately 22cm. You will start with the longer Kevlar line so as to give you a length more easily manipulated. Attach the brass clipped end of the line into the plastic pulley notch, lay out and mark the length needed, then wrap the other end of the line around the ASA resistor ring attachment prongs, apply a dab of glue to secure the wrapped line and trim off the excess line.
Although you can often we use the brass clips on the end of the original wire by carefully spreading the open end. If that is not an option a clip can be fashion from a 2mm length of 36 gauge solid copper wire bent into the shape of a "u" and then crimped to the wire at the proper length. The clipped end is then pressed into a notch in the pulleys and finally secured additionally with pliobond glue.
@@FixOldCameras thx for great tuorial as aways. Is there any chance to prepare video how to replace this linkage? These cameras even for parts are expensive now.
Very Good Video. So very helpful. Thank you so much.
Thank you for your comments.
Thanks I could have used it a couple of years ago! I broke all the wires, original and a replacement a kind person gave me so I ended up using Kevlar. Tried ordering replacement wire but got my zeros confused and ended up with a thick piece of wire. At which point I turned to Kevlar. Did not use the brass knob because I lost it!
A misplaced decimal point can definitely screw up a parts order or a checkbook. Sounds like your persistence paid off. Curious to know how you ended up attaching the Kevlar line to the plastic pulley side.
Huge thank to you for this video that helped me fix my camera. Indeed i had the same problem but the wire were good. The spring on the left was not ok, i think there is a waxher missing. Thanks again
Thank you for your comments and your interest in FOC.
Nice video. Very helpful.
~7 ' : For me I had to turn counterclockwise the right white plastic plate (about 1 turn) to roll up some wire.
Excellent adaptation of the demonstrated instructions.
How do you remove the brass asa link wire retainer?
Thank you again for making these videos. I have 3 AE-1s that have the same issue (unrelated to this video). The lever located on the right side of the mirror won't come down when i take a picture making the aperture blades not close at all. Could you please help me? Thank you again for helping so many people with your amazing videos.
Could be that the mirror dampening mechanism that causes the infamous squeak simply completed locked up causing the mirror in turn not to drop.
i think the a e 1 program does not have this eliminating this problem great vid thankyou
You are correct. Thank you for your interest in FOC.
Nice Video, thank you for this, but I have to say that it's not enough to turn the spring 1,5 times and it's good, it isn't. My wire was so long I had to turn the wire one more time manually around the ASA Resitor plate.
I don't know if I'm brave enough to fiddle with my camera to that degree. Good video though and quite entertaining.
Well maybe find a camera at a garage sale or flea market and have a go at it. Regardless, thank you for words of support and for your interest in Fix Old Cameras.
Excelent tutorial! You inspire me to get adventurous with my camera problems heheh Knowledge
Regarding the time switch wire: the wire and the switch can't be touching each other right? being the wire in the middle of the switch
That would be the correct position of the timer switch contact.
Thank you again. Successful repair thanks to your video.
Very good to hear of your success. What is the camera?
Fix Old Cameras AE1 ASA linkage repair. I used the fishing line as I had it, worked great. Additionally, I fixed a Nikon FM from your video, where the the film rewind shaft fell down inside canister compartment. And lastly, a Nikon F2 photomic meter repair from your video.
Excellent list of successful camera repairs. Keep it going.
Great! I am going to buy kevlar fishline now!
Thanks again for your comments and interest in Fix Old Cameras.
I recognize that AE-1!
Yes indeed. Beautiful condition.
Superb video. I've fixed the linkage wire and al works great! That's only one of the issues though as the shutter just won't fire after winding on. I've followed your other video about the magnet. When I short it out the shutter fires fine and I can wind on again. Cleaned up as well as you suggest. Still no joy. Even swabbed between the shutter button connector... any ideas please? My Daughter was making really good headway with my old camera for a few months and then it suddenly stopped working when the release button underneath got stuck in.
First make absolutely certain that you have a batter that is delivering 6 volts. Otherwise, you might need to clean the switch contacts that are located under the release button, or the release capacitor (usually blue) located next to the release magnet might need to be replaced or re-soldered. Finally and unfortunately a failed IC (PX-2) can also cause release issues.
Wow, very interesting. Agree with previous comment that this seems to be a poorly designed mechanism for such an important function.
It at the very least proved to be a source of occasional failure. That is all right... gives us camera repair nuts something to do.
do you know how to disassembly the diaphragm locking lever on the right side of the les mount ?
Thank you for all the videos! I inherited a mint AE1 (not program) from my wife, it seems to work well except that it underexpose photos with 1.5 -2 stops. this is booth in manual mode as well as if I set it to A-mode. I have compared it to my other cameras and also a light-meter and it is consistent off by 1.5 - 2 stops. Have checked the link-wire and changed battery and don't know how to fix it, any help appreciated, thx.
I’ve got the same mirror problem on my Canon A-1 but I think it doesn’t have such a coupling wire since the dial is directly on the resistors, am I right ?
Thank you.
I would like to see on your channel how to repair Canon EF "Black Beauty".
Thank you for the suggestion.
First off, thanks so much for making these videos. They are immensely helpful!
I have an AE-1 with a faulty meter. When I half press the shutter, the needle jumps down to the bottom of the meter regardless of settings, lighting conditions or lens. I installed a new battery, and opened the top cover to make sure this ASA linkage wire was still intact, and it was.
Anything else I can try, or is my meter just plain dead? Thanks again!
There are tests they can be run determine where the fail is with in the circuit, but it is probably not worth effort. When the ASA linkage wire and supporting wiper contacts check out to good working order then the cause off a pegging meter needle pretty much defaults to circuit issues. You can check for cracks or separations of the flexible circuitry. But ultimately it is probably the IC that is located above the viewfinder lens that has failed.
Is there a way to get to the other side of the focus screen for cleaning. I know on the program the focus screen can be removed. Wondering what the best way to get access without being too invasive
HI. Nice job. Your videos helped me to repair some of my cameras , so I say thank you for your effort.
About this wire. I have a camera with broken wire, just beside the place where is connected with asa dial plate. I have glued back, but now is 2-3mm shorter, and the light meter is no more accurate. How can I solve this? Best regards.
You might try using a more direct routing of the wire around the eccentric screw on the ASA resistor pulley. You maybe can gain the 2-3mm you lost. Also turn the eccentric to the minimum length position.
Thank you for these incredibly informative videos. My recently bought AE-1 Program seemed to be unused for some time. Along with the notorious squeak, the light meter seems to not work properly. It only blinks at a suggested aperture of 32 in manual mode and 16 in program mode (doesn't matter what are the shutter speed/ISO settings). The battery check sound seems off too as it plays a high pitched constant note (does not beep x amount of times a second). Could the problem be with the wirings of the electronics? The battery compartment had some corrosion in it which I cleaned and the body showed signs of corrosion as well.
From your description of corrosion evidence it is likely that you have some corrosion damage. Look for white powdery bridges over solder points and contacts through out the circuitry. The corrosion could be from a leaking battery or from latent moisture residue.
Hi do you know how to fix a similar issue on a miranda sensomat? While trying to reload film I think that a wire that connects from the shutter button to the film advance lever snapped. the shutter button won’t press all the way down, and the film advance lever is very loose. I took apart the bottom and top of the camera, and noticed that there is a snapped wire where the advance film lever would be.
Great guide! Unfortunately, it didn't help me understand why the exposure meter on my AE 1 acts so crazy.
It reacts sensitively to light, but mostly gives me crazy values and doesn't really react intelligibly to changed exposure times.
For example, if I measure the exposure of a scene and the AE1 gives me an aperture value of 4 at a set exposure time of 1 / 60s and I change the exposure time to 1 / 500s, the AE1 suddenly gives me an aperture value of 8.
Or it doesn't change the aperture value at all.
I've also checked with a handheld light meter
and the wrong measurements seems that it metering in an ISO range of 1600 -2400.
Even though I measured on Iso 200.
What could that be? Could it possibly also be the cable under the ISO dial?
Very nice video! Any idea my AE-1 light meter keep getting a flashing M and underexposed in whatever setting, shutter is working, lens is good and my battery is good as well, appreciate a lot if you can give me some advice!
i cant finde a replace wire... what should i do ? can i use other wire ?
Dear Fix Old Camera's, Does the AT-1 and AV-1 Also have the ASA link wire?
Great video. My problem started after the ISO wheel was stuck, and I forced it when trying to move it from ISO 3200 to ISO 100. What happen was that the shutter speed jumped past "B", making it go 360 degrees (++). After this my light meter stopped responding to ISO and shutter speed changes, but the light meter still reacts to ambient light changes. Is it likely that the problem is the cable you refer to? After this incident, the shutter started locking up at 2 seconds exposures as well.
Very likely the cable has come off a pulley and is entangled.
Disassembled it today, it was a snapped wire. Since I am in Norway it's a bit harder to get a hold of parts - but a kevlar fishing line is plentiful - how long do I need to make it? (The original line was in terrible state, and hard to measure)
The length of the link wire once installed on the pulley and resistor pulley should be 19.8cm to no more than 20.2cm. Start with a length of 26cm to 28cm and wrap it around the tab on the resistor pulley. Once secured with glue trim the remaining length to 22cm and attach the brass clip at 20cm. Any adjustment in length at this point should be made with the adjustment eccentric on the resistor pulley
I have a situation where when I press the shutter release the mirror hangs ups.. then I have to hit the battery check button to release the mirror..
It's very weird.. do you have any suggestions on a fix or what I can do to troubleshoot?.. thanks.
I have the same problem! Did you ever figure it out?
Very helpful video! I am wondering if I decide to make my own replacement wire, does it have to be the EXACT same length as the original to function accurately? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, did you find and answer to your question?
@@shatterator No, unfortunately not
In another comment he said that you have to start with around 28cm length and in the end from part to part should be roughly 22cm.
Hope this helps.
Can you possibly do a video on the repair of the actual wire itself?? This is great, but you show the resistor and asa knob already attached. I have two asa resistors that are broken and can't for the life of me get the wire to stick to the pulleys. Thanks.
Thank you for the suggestion. Although you can often we use the brass clips on the end of the original wire by carefully spreading the open end. If that is not an option a clip can be fashion from a 2mm length of 36 gauge solid copper wire bent into the shape of a "u" and then crimped to the wire at the proper length. The clipped end is then pressed into a notch in the pulleys and finally secured additionally with pliobond glue.
Can anybody provide information on how to verify the timing between both wheels? I suspect my wire is too short. PS I just bought the camera. Thanks
I recently acquired an AE-1 that had a really bad squeak which slowed the mirror. I was able to fix that but upon checking the shutter speeds. I found I cannot turn the dial to the max of 1000, only to 500, but it can be turned below B which holds the shutter open. What would the fix be for this?
Fixed it! The detent lever was bent upwards and it kept riding on top of the gear. Preventing it from turning properly. I put a nice used gear in anyways since the old one looks like it has some wear in it. But will keep it as a spare just incase. This video helped me a lot with figuring out what was wrong. Thank you.
Edit: The part I got from ebay looks different than original. ebay part has only 2 contact legs while old dial has 3. ebay one gives me all speeds but makes Bulb not close once I let go of the shutter button. While original gives me all speeds and bulb opens and closes fine. Was there a change in the AE-1 over it's life span or was I sold a wrong part? I put the old part back in and will keep using it for now.
Edit2: Just learned there's 2 different contact assemblies for the AE-1. Something to watch out for. I learned the hard way. Oops.
If I were to buy replacement tungsten cable, what mm size should I buy?
0.12 mm. I have already bought the wire but do not know which length it was. Do you know the original length?
Followed this repair. Exposure meter doesn't seem to work now for speeds 1/15s or slower
Right, the same for me
@@nguyenhuyho8835 turns out its ment to be that way when iso is 3200, just turn iso dial to normal 200 and it will work fine. Took 5. Outs to figure this out
I can see why the ASA dial was moved to the rewind side on the AE-1 Program.
A misplaced decimal point can definitely screw up a parts order or a checkbook. Sounds like your persistence paid off. Curious to know how you ended up attaching the Kevlar line to the plastic pulley side.
That is surely a possibility.
oops... comment belongs to Reynold H.
Great video!
Not related but can you help or make a video about this problem I'm having with Zorki 4 rangefinder, the tab and cam are stuck into one position and was fine before, but stopped moving and only move when I apply some force onto it, the mechanism on top linking to the focusing prism is smooth and fine but not the tab and cam, help?
Thank you for you interest in FOC. Not sure what is going on with your camera with the information gleaned from your description. It is possible you need to look for a mechanical issue within the linkage. If it requires extra pressure to move but still moves as it should than often the lubricant has become exceedingly stiff causing undo resistance in the mechanism.
I have same issue but wire is fine, what can be issue ?
Also in my case mirror stuck up.
Great videos, have a question i was giving a canon ae1 when i got it it had the film slide in pieces by watching your videos i manage to get it back together but the iso seems to be off since the person who took the slide off did not use caution is there a way to set it the way it should be
Not sure of your question... but if you are referring to the timing of the linkage wire to the shutter dial than set the shutter speed to bulb and the ASA/ISO to 3200.
Hi there! i have recently just picked up a canon ae1 in visually stunning condition. However when I take a photo with it, my camera shoots with the self timer setting, even if i have the shutter switch set to "A". Even when i half press the shutter button, the countdown begins for the self timer setting, once this occurs i can then switch the shutter lever to the "s" setting which will take the photo prematurely (of the 10 second count down). Every 2nd or 3rd photo i take in the "L" setting will shoot perfectly fine, but then ill have 3 or 4 shots in a row that will select the self timer option as soon as i half press the button. let me know if anyone has had this issue before orm can point me in the right direction. thanks
Any advice on installing the 0.005 Kevlar fishing line? I don’t have a daughter to scavenge from.
Hi I have just purchased an AE-1 as I found a very reasonably priced one, my one concern about it is that the ASA dial is a little stiff to change and have to turn it fully to 3200 or B so as there is resistance to get desired ASA and then change back to desired shutter speed. Not to much of a problem just more of a hassle, I was thinking that I could perhaps take it apart a little and just put in some 3 in 1 oil or something similar to better lubricate it. Just thought I would see if you thought that was a good idea or might have a better idea?
I meant 1000 not 3200
4:36 amazing
What kind of lubricant would you use for lenses?
The viscosity of the grease needed is affected by several factors. Are the threads worn? How course or fine are the threads?The finer the threads the lighter the grease. And finally, how much resistance to you want to feel when operating the focus. A light synthetic grease will cover most focus thread applications. Some zoom lens mechanisms require a dampening type grease to get the proper "feel". Synthetic grease will not get gummy over time and conditions like the original natural grease. A local bicycle repair shop might have some grease that is suitable or you can use the helicoid grease available here -
astore.amazon.com/fixoldcam-20?node=1&page=5
thank you ! thank you very much.
If the ASA ring and the shutter ring are linked and move at the same time but the mirror and the shutter curtain are still getting stuck and unstuck when you remove the battery, what could be the problem?
Check the position and routing of the ASA linkage wire.
Hello again Fix Old Cameras.
I have a Canon AE-1 that light meter is not functioning. When I push the shutter button half way, the M blinks at the top of the light meter, the little dot blinks at the bottom and the needle is stuck all the way up (no needle movement). The ASA wire is good. Shutter dial changes and shutter goes off at the correct speeds.
Any help? Thank you very much in advance.
Hmmm... that is an odd combination of issues. You might have multiple problems masking each other or a likely straight up failure of one of the 3 control IC's. With the needle not moving at all you could have a defective galvanometer. Some things to check... Does the auto aperture work and AE function work? If not... Does the AE pin of the lens engage properly with the AE pin of the mirror box. With the top cover removed... check flex connectors for proper alignment and tightness, chick wipers if signals doe not respond, check for flex circuit damage, check solder connections, check to see if ASA common is open.
Thank you for all your explanation but i think I not that great with cameras yet. Just received another Canon ae-1 today with the exact same issue. Hate using these cameras for parts since all they have wrong is the light meter. Thank you again.
Has anyone had any luck removing the brass clip from the plastic coupler holding the tungsten cord in place? I need to replace the cord completely and wanted to start there.
With a small pry tool and it can be opened. Lay it on a hard surface and press the tool into the seam crack.
I did the replacement of the wire for my ae1, but it looks like the shutter speed doesnt change when the dial is moved. the B setting doesn't keep the shutter open. Any ideas?
Recheck your seating of the shutter / ASA dial parts. It sounds like they might not be complete seated.
can you help on how to fix the red indicater lights when you look through the viewfinder when you half press the shutter button? im not getting any lights when you look through the viewfinder. is it a hard fix?
Well.. usually LEDs that do not turn on, or do not blink, or stay on, indicate a failure of an IC (PX-2). When the LED does not turn on and the release is also erratic it can be an indication that the clock inside the PX-2 is not working. Check pin 11 and its connection the the resistor. Looking at the top of the camera with the top cover removed and the lens bayonet facing out PX-2 is located on the right side of the prism, pin 11 of PX-2 is last pin on lower right side of IC
@fix old cameras, my AE 1 light meter works just fine, however the reading is off by 1 stop, Setting the asa dial to 200 when I am using 400 film, the the meter is correct (for 400), how do I adjust the galvanometer so it is accurate? Thank you for any help.
The galvanometer indicates independent of the exposure system. Slightly turning the center slot in the galvanometer will change the position of the needle.
hi thanks a lot for the video. my linkage wire is copliteli gone, do you know the lenght of the wire so i can fix it with a kevlar wire?
The length of the link wire once installed on the pulley and resistor pulley should be 19.8cm to no more than 20.2cm. Start with a length of 26cm to 28cm and wrap it around the tab on the resistor pulley. Once secured with glue trim the remaining length to 22cm and attach the brass clip at 20cm. Any adjustment in length at this point should be made with the adjustment eccentric on the resistor pulley.
@@FixOldCameras OMG this saves me! have been finding this for so long, thanks!
@@feelvisuals1048 You are welcome.
how do you get the brass retainer out of the pulley?
Slightly bend the end of a large sewing needle to form a hook and dig it out after using some alcohol on the glue to soften. If you have a.025 slotted screwdriver it will also pop out the brass retainer clip.
I just got a canon ae1 but after having so much fun with it i found out there’s something wrong with the asa dial, any number between 1600-100 shoots to 1600 when slightly touched. If anyone has any advice on what i should do please tell me, should i try to take it back or find a place to fix it and if so if anyone knows how much It would be that would help the decision as well.
The retainer nut that holds the shutter speed/ ASA dial might be loose, but most likely the ASA dial itself is slipping and will need to be replaced.
Hello ! On my camera, the Bulb mode and the self-timer mode doesn't work anymore. Any ideas ?
At point 6:45 in this FOC video you will see were the shutter speed cam closes the the brass plated bulb contacts. Check for proper position of these contacts. At point 8:47 in this video you will then see were the timer contact is properly positioned.
hey fix old cameras, my ASA wire is in good condition but it has came out of the resistor plate pulley. How do i go about putting the wire back into the pulley?
It is held in place with a metal clip, glued and pressed into the notch in the resistor plate pulley.
Just make sure you didn't lose the tension tension and if you didn't use a pair of tweezers Torout it over the Pulleys make sure it in the middle of them
How can I reattach the wire to the brass clip retainer, please?
Crimp with a needle nose pliers
Thanks a lot!
How long should the Kevlar fishing wire be if the tungsten wire was broken?
A donor camera would be the best option, but if you already have the proper Kevlar line you will need to start with around 28cm. The length of the tungsten wire from brass connector clip to where the line wraps around the ASA resistor ring connection point is approximately 22cm. You will start with the longer Kevlar line so as to give you a length more easily manipulated. Attach the brass clipped end of the line into the plastic pulley notch, lay out and mark the length needed, then wrap the other end of the line around the ASA resistor ring attachment prongs, apply a dab of glue to secure the wrapped line and trim off the excess line.
how do you remove the brass connector club from the plastic pulley notch?
Soften the glue around the brass connector then pry it out with a heavy sewing needle or very small slotted screwdriver.
you sure the unit is mm?
Thank you so very much for catching such an egregious typo. It would be pretty obvious once the line was cut at 28mm that it is going to come up a bit short. The length of the link wire once installed on the pulley and resistor pulley should be 19.8cm to no more than 20.2cm. Start with a length of 26cm to 28cm and wrap it around the tab on the resistor pulley. Once secured with glue trim the remaining length to 22cm and attach the brass clip at 20cm. Any adjustment in length at this point should be made with the adjustment eccentric on the resistor pulley. The original post now has the proper length of the line.
Any idea why my Canon AE-1 light meter is over exposing by 1 & 2/3 stops?
If the meter is reading correctly, check for sticking gears in the AE unit.
Meaning when I compensate to ISO640 when using ISO200 film on a sunny day for example and get the right reading. I should then check for sticking gears?
@@jordanbouwer8081 If the meter is not reading accurately and the camera is over exposing than it is an issue that is electronic in nature. One thing notable about the AE-1 is the galvanometer read out works separate from the exposure circuitry and can be off will the exposure is still accurate. The meter position can be adjusted via the center slot in the top of the galvanometer.
Fix Old Cameras Thank you that is very helpful to me. Will have to open it up and have a look at it. Appreciate the response and help.
Why would they do this... Love the AE-1, but this is just straight up fragile.
It was a source of consternation over the life of an innovative camera design. A seemingly low tech solution for a camera that had many ground breaking features.
What a pain!
Too much fun!
There is NO possible way you could "reuse" the original brass crimes from the tungsten wire, you'd utterly destroy them digging them out, trust me I know, you'd need to get new a crimping solution, apparently 0.5mm fishing crimps exist but they are a double thing, made too loop the fishing line, so some other 5mm tube is needed to crimp to the fishing braid, then use a soldering iron to seat that into the original plastic camera dial spool thing
I had to replace the tungsten ASA wire with fishing line, real pain in the ass.
Indeed it is. Good to hear your persistence and patience paid off.
How did you attach the wire to right most plastic plate? I can’t figure out how to do it