Honda V6 Engine Burns Oil? Fix it in 5 minutes.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2022
- To Burn, or Not to Burn (Oil vs. Fuel), Honda Engine VCM
Honda V6 Engine with VCM (Variable Cylinder Management)
shown in the 2010 Odyssey Ex-L
Problem
* Honda V6 (J35A7) burns oil, at least 1 quart every 1500 miles
Reason
* VCM (Variable Cylinder Management) is the likely culprit
* VCM shuts off some of the cylinders to consume LESS FUEL, which is good in this time of high gas prices
* HOWEVER, it creates imbalances and vacuums in the engine with likely problems such as:
1. Engine and mount wear (and noise/failure over time)
2. OIL BURNING, bad for the engine, cat converter (costly), and the environment
3. It can ruin the engine if the oil level goes too low
* You can disable VCM by adding a muzzler (resistor) to the coolant temperature sensor:
* VCM is only turned on after the engine is WARMED up (at a certain coolant temperature)
* Added resistor increases sensor OHM and signals a temperature below the desired condition for VCM, which will not get turned on
Supplies
1. Honda VCM Muzzler / DIPressor
2. OR, if you can make a resistor of varying 82-100 ohm, that may work as well.
Here is the one I purchased on eBay (sold by osibana):
ebay.us/2niKUj
Related products:
ebay.us/Xq5fZ2
* Disclosure: As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase from the product links I posted in the video description and comments below.
Tools
Optional:
1. An OBD II Scanner to clear code, in case it appears
Steps
1. Engine OFF
2. Pop the hood
3. Remove the engine cover
4. Remove the coolant temperature sensor
5. Chain the muzzler with sensor: sensor harness to muzzler to sensor connector on the engine block
6. Start with the lower DIP or ohm setting, e.g. at 82 ohms.
7. Test the car to see if ECO mode appears in any driving condition.
8. Adjust/increase ohm if necessary and test drive again, until VCM no longer returns.
Here are my DIP settings in Pennsylvania USA:
1. 82 ohms in the Winter
2. 92 ohms in the Summer
Results
1. ECO never comes back with the above settings.
2. I no longer need to add oil between oil changes.
--
Be safe, stay dirty. Enjoy the work!
God bless!
![fellow fellow - Proud [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9uZF7BlUQPE/mqdefault.jpg)
Here are similar products (updated 2024) to what I used in the video (by the same seller osibana):
ebay.us/2niKUj
And related products on eBay:
ebay.us/Xq5fZ2
Great video! I recently bought a 2008 honda accord 3.5 and later discovered it had this. Other vehicles like the 2008 chevy Silverado / Tahoe have cylinder deactivation, these designs have major drawbacks. I appreciate the quality of this video and you waited months later to give feedback not many youtubers do this thank you!
You are welcome! Glad it helped.
I installed an S-VCM in my V6 Accord and my oil consumption went from 1/2 to a full quart per change to NOTHING. Also, no engine shake any more. Much smoother ride altogether. Best money I ever spent on my Accord (which hasn't been much).
This is great! Thanks for sharing!
I also use the S - VCM, this product requires no adjustments and is fully automatic.
@@sat_sonichi can send link which did you use?
The cost of just one quart of high quality oil negates the small increase in fuel efficiency one gets. Defeating VCM is the best choice and actually saves money..
Good point! And that small increase in fuel efficiency with VCM was neglectable when the gas price was much lower. Adding the risk of running low on oil and long-term damage to the catalytic converter, it's never a good idea not to disable VCM.
I just purchased a brand new Honda Ridgeline and I will definitely install one of these defeat devices. I'm glad I found out about this while my truck is new, before any wear is caused by VCM.
Glad to hear this! Congrats on the new purchase and, with good preventive maintenance, there will be many hundreds of thousands of miles!
No need to with the newer j35s that came out in 2018-present. I’m a dealer tech and we don’t see any issues with oil consumption on the 2018+ engines. I would advise to use quality gas (issues with fuel injectors), change your oil more frequently (and not do your first oil change or any at 6-10k miles even though the maintenance minder will tell you oil life is good), and change the transmission fluid earlier than advised - especially if towing or a 6 speed automatic.
@@Tony-375 Thanks for sharing the insider observation! Good advice on regular oil changes and early transmission fluid service. As for 2018+ model years, while Honda had improved on the VCM design, I'll have to wait and see as it may take some time (7/8 years) for major symptoms to surface.
My 2006 3.0 with 150k miles consumes the exact same amount of oil (one qt/1,500 miles) and I will try this quick fix. Very good video professor, and very good English!
Glad it was helpful!
Also check PCV valve and consider replacing it as well: th-cam.com/video/bGVFDy7I0j8/w-d-xo.html
Another easy job. Doing both will eliminate most of oil consumption on the Honda engine.
I installed the S-VCM in my 2021 Honda Pilot EX-L AWD. It is just plug and play. Designed by a Honda Technician, no resistor to deal with.
Love your vids by the way.
This is even better! Thanks for the feedback. I’m very glad to know!
Is that the one from Canada "Quebec" i am going to buy that one
@@friendofvinnieyea it is. I have on my 2021 Ridgeline
@@daveroski notice any difference?
@@friendofvinnie I average 18-19 mpg. Probably would be 22/23 if I didn’t have it. Always more power. But I contemplated taking it off. I do recommend to disable the auto shut off start module to keep the auto stop from turning on every time you turn on vehicle.
I soldered 2 "44" ohm resisters in series, in-line in 1 of the temp sensor wires and it instantly solved the problem.
Total cost was under $10.
Wow! Great job! The only thing I'd add is to keep an eye on potential engine code/check engine light, and make sure it's benign (due to the modified coolant temperature sensor with seasonal temperature fluctuation). If that's the case, you can clear it or ignore it (may disappear on its own).
@@profsg ...I did it over a year ago and never got any codes at all.
Glad I found your video. Been having random misfires etc like others said. Initially thought I needed a tune up till I did research. Eventually landed me here and a couple other articles/videos. Just ordered the part from your link. Will update once I install the part. Tired of the random check engine lights/VSA lights due to misfires. When it stops, she RUNS well.
Glad it was helpful! Best luck with the installation and keep us posted of the outcome or questions.
Any updates?
Well?
@@eric5250 It does work. The better ones are the one that changes the OHMs as the weather changes for you. The one I saw was double the price I paid for mine which was $40. When doing it manually, when it gets cold you have to turn down the OHMs, when warmer turn it up again. No misfires, but when you don't change it, you will get a check engine light, but no misfires.
@@barryrobinson8261 It does work. The better ones are the one that changes the OHMs as the weather changes for you. The one I saw was double the price I paid for mine which was $40. When doing it manually, when it gets cold you have to turn down the OHMs, when warmer turn it up again. No misfires, but when you don't change it, you will get a check engine light, but no misfires.
I have had two engine misfires due to fouled spark plugs on my 2010 Honda Accord (53000 miles and 65000 miles). The first misfire was sparkplug 3 and the second was sparkplug 1. I installed the vcmuzzler 2 and now 3 years later (and 8000 miles, didn't drive much during pandemic) I have experienced no misfires and no oil consumption. I am very happy with the modification I made and continually wonder why Honda continues to equip vehicles with vcm.
Thanks for sharing! I guess for Honda or other auto makers, it is all about having those MPG numbers on paper and meeting/exceeding EPA expectations.
How’s the fuel consumption?
@@MrSamPhoenix don't do a lot of highway driving with the car anymore just local. I would say it loses 1 or 2 mpg but the car runs so much more powerfully and smoothly.
@@danjoe22 exactly as I thought. My brother’s wife has a 2011 Honda Accord EX-L V6. She bought it new, and recently it’s been giving some small issues.
But when I drove it last the VCM solenoid wasn’t working and it was stuck in V6 mode. It felt super powerful than it ever did because of it.
Was there any oil on that spark plug? On my 2010 V6 they told me it's a piston ring that needs replacement. But if i keep replacing the sparkplug and checking the oil i would be fine
Correction. VCM is the worst and saddest News in the world of cars. Vcm kills your engine, withbtime it screws up all your solenoid valves, valve cover gaskets, piston rings, and even transmission . The little savings you get at the pump comes with the cost of completely losing your engine in 5 years or so, unless you muzzle the vcm.
Yes. Unfortunately, it's one of many examples where government policies/regulations only sound good on paper. These "clean" policies are at the cost of real sufferings like this and, in the end, counterproductive to genuine environmental protection. Complete ignorance of the reality!
“Worst and saddest news in the world of cars” is a bit dramatic, and wrong! GM, Chrysler, Ford, Nissan, BMW, Audi and Hyundai/Kia have brought far more problematic driveline components to the market.
The problem described is not universal for engines with VCM either. Our 2007 Odyssey with VCM has 292,000 miles and uses no oil. The engine is smooth and quiet, never requiring any repairs since we bought it new. I have been very diligent with maintenance though.
My own theory is that the VCM feature makes the car more vulnerable to damage if oil change intervals are not adhered to, or the wrong type of oil is used. Maybe Honda should have taken that into account when they designed it though.
@@jaygrosse8365 my 2016 was bought brand new and I'm the only owner. Did all my services on time at the dealership and the car relaxed most of the Covid period and I still had so many problems I spent so much money on I couldve traded it and bought a different car. After all that I start getting the cylinder 3 problems and oil in the ignition coils, besides all the pc vslv rings and more. The only thing that helped now is when I muzzled it. Your 2007 is apparently a super car because everyone on oddy Facebook group is crying, including the odyclub forum
You can thank the EPA for this nonsense "feature." That's the only reason Honda was forced to engineer this into their engines. Same goes for the auto engine stop / start that burns up starter motors. Independent testing has shown only a 0.6 MPG savings with VCM enabled. It's a boondoggle, disable it with an aftermarket kit and and save yourself the headache of oil consumption and other issues.
Great video! Appreciate the info.
Glad it was helpful!
You are right, i need to add 1qt/300 miles in my 2005 odyssey. I fixed the oil burning issue by inserting a muzzler. oil burning stopped but the gas mileage when from 27 mpg to 21 mpg but the good news is the life of the engine has been extended, and i stopped losing front engine mounts because the engine is running balanced instead of running with only 3-cylinder. check out Honda service bulletin 13-080. Honda lost an epic law suit and had to extend the engine warranty for 8- years so consumers could bring their Honda odyssey vcm engines for new rings on each piston to fix the engine burning issue. IN 2022 to date Honda has removed the VMC from their engine designs because they know that VMC represents faulty engineering in which they used the public consumers as guinea pigs. There is also another problem, the transmission is sensitive to heat. Suggest you reroute the transmission fluid into a separate small radiator to keep the transmission oil cooler while the fluid is circulating through the system or you can pay $6K for a rebuilt transmission.
Glad to know it fixed your problem too. And thanks for sharing the knowledge. As for transmission, also remember maintenance is key and replace the fluid every 30k miles or so. I just posted a video on ATF replacement. Feel free to check it out.
@@steelewheels1365 Welcome to the club... This class action happened so quickly I am suspicious of it. Almost like they had someone bring it against them BEFORE everyone started having problems so they wouldn't have to pay as many people. I was never notified by Honda or the dealership. Pretty much identical situation as you... It might be possible to organize again. This has already cost me a couple grand, weeks of my time, and it's still not fixed. Hoping one of these VCM devices does the trick.
@@steelewheels1365 so my 2015 odyssey should still be covered under the lawsuit extended warranty?
I put this on my 2013 Pilot - January 28, 2024..... Works fine here in Kansas winter so far. It's 45 degrees here today and it is working fine at 82 ohms. My Pilot is running WAY better without the VCM. I'll update this if it gets colder and I have to change the dip switches. It can get down to -10 degrees here in winter and up to 110 in summer.
This is great! Thanks for letting us know! Given the huge temperature variation, you will likely have to adjust the dips but keep us posted.
I have a 13 pilot too I can't tell a difference with or without it I'm using a resister
@@brandonjohnson7851 Is your VCM still kicking in? You can tell by the green ECO light on left side of instrument panel. If the green ECO light is still coming on when you drive then you don't have VCM disabled.
subscribed!love the honda vids
Thank you! Glad to hear that.
Guys keep in mind that you can reduce some of the oil consumption by changing the PCV valve. Saying that, the VCM modification is the best there is. You’ll notice an immediate improvement in engine response.
Yes, thanks for that note! PCV is a common culprit for oil consumption. Cheap and easy to replace on this Honda engine.
@@profsg coincidence, I just bought the PCV and Muzzler for the 3.5L
its my first full gas tank. so far so good around 120km for 1/4 Tank, and i'm afraid it will just drop down and I wont get 480km for full gas tank. Seems there is no other way to save gas on this one. VCM is not an option.
@@yaesmucho Yes, fuel economy will suffer but it won't be terrible. VCM was created to boost perhaps 1 extra mile per gallon. :)
@@profsg indeed!
put a vcm switch on our 08 accord and was good for 4 months. then it through a engine code for a thermostat. vcm switch keeps the car temp down hence throwing a engine code. these engines suck.
I like your style, dude.
Thanks! Glad to hear it!
I also installed svcm today. The engine becomes more powerful and has less vibration.
Great! Thanks for sharing it.
Getting rid of cylinder deactivation is a great thing! I would recommend a bottle of AvBlend in the oil. It should reduce oil burn even further. It has in my vehicles and many of my customer's aircraft.
Thanks for the information!
Fantastic video! Thank you!
You're very welcome! Glad it helped!
I run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum full synthetic 5W20, $7.15/qt, so the S-VCM disable module is well worth it for me. Not to mention to replace all 5 engine mounts is thousands of dollars at the dealer.
Exactly! These active control mounts are not cheap at all and they are so designed (and expensive), again, thanks to VCM.
Penzoil is not a good oil. It’s known to sludge.
Thank you, great video
You are welcome! Glad you liked it!
My 2006 Ridgeline with 230k miles uses a pint of oil between changes. Glad it doesn’t have vcm to mess with.
Thanks for sharing! Very glad to know it!
Bless you brother.
Thank you! God bless!
I just installed the S-VCM on my 2011 Honda Odyssey (75,930 mi.) this morning and then took it for a test drive. The engine seems to be running smoother and I can tell there is more power there when going from just cruising to accelerating. I paid $95.00 plus $11.00 shipping for this item and I was a bit disappointed when I got it. It is quite small and there isn't much to it. It comes with detailed installation instructions which insist you must follow in strict order. When I did that I found that after using the tiny zip ties provided I could not connect the S-VCM to the sensor because it wasn't long enough. I had to cut the ties, connect to the sensor, and then use my own zip ties (recommended) to secure the electrical harnesses.
Great to know! Thanks for sharing!
I heard of this, But never saw how todo it
One thing that helped my 2007 model was to change PCV valve.
Now it’s about 1qt per oil change
I also use high mileage synthetic blend 5w20 havoline. I was using super tech and than burned more then 2 qts oil. For each oil change
Thanks for the comment!
Yes, PCV is another common reason for oil burning. And on this engine, it is easy to access and replace. I replaced PCV a couple of years ago, and that helped. Also replaced valve cover gaskets and VTEC spool gaskets because of oil leaks. In my case, disabling the VCM significantly reduced oil burning.
The high mileage oil (additives) may help when rubber seals are aged and getting brittle. I've also heard positive experiences with ATP AT-205 for aged rubber seals.
On PCV and other replacements, go with Honda parts if possible.
It would be best to use Full Synthetic oil than that Synthetic blend they sell
Thank you!!!
You are welcome!
Nice job!
Thank you! Cheers!
I prefer using my VCM Tuner II which has some built in features to avoid having to reset for the seasons and will bypass if engine is actually overheating.
That's a great feature! Thanks for sharing!
I need to disable VCM on our 2010 Ody EX-L. I worked through a check engine light, VSA light on the dash and engine shudder this past week. All seems to be working now! I've read up on the evil VCM and want to disable it for good. I considered the options listed on OdyClub and Piloteers, but want to spend as little as possible since we are not in this Ody for the long run anymore, actively looking to trade it in. The DiPressor seems like a good solution for a good price. I considered the DIY route, as it is really cheap to do, but doing it that cheaply is permanent.
@Professor's Garage and others that have tried the DiPressor, are you all still happy with it, meaning is it still doing its job at disabling VCM and keeping the evil ECO light at bay? Professor's Garage, definitely interested to hear how it is holding up with PA weather. We are in MA, so have snowy winters and roads treated with salt just like you guys.
FYI, it looks like the eBay DiPressor seller is also selling it on Etsy.
This holds up quite well. I did adjust the ohm setting between fall/winter and spring/summer; I only saw the ECO light once or twice during the change of season. Most important, I am happy with the rate of oil consumption and could *almost* get by without adding oil between oil changes... but I did add some oil to avoid issues. :)
@@profsg Thanks for the reply! I do like how customizable the solution is. Much better than the crude DIY solution I was planning on doing. I think I even saw on the DIP switch settings page that you could even re-enable VCM, which could come in handy for future troubleshooting. Thanks for sharing the settings you are using up in the description. I think I'm sold on DiPressor over the more expensive options elsewhere.
Does the muzzler prevents the radiator fan from turning on ,since it tricks the computer to read at lower temperature, in that case, could it cause more harm than good, since your engine runs hot all the time.
Good question! Fortunately this doesn't affect the fan at all! There are two coolant temperature sensors and the other one (ECT2) tells when to turn on the radiator fans.
Hi, I have 2012 Odyssey which has p0302 misfire. The Spark Plug on cylinder 2 failing once in a month. Honda says the Piston Rings to be replaced which is expensive. Do you advise to make use of this with new spark plug to permanently disable Eco Mode and avoid the misfire errors. Is this going to be an issue during state inspection?
I assume the piston ring in cylinder 2 is not broken but has lost its tight seal due to oil sludge over time. Oil burning/consumption does contribute to this problem and VCM is a major culprit on Honda V6 engines. If this is the case, here is what's I'd do:
1) Use OE spark plugs (NGK or Denso) when replacing them. I'd replace spark plugs in all cylinders if it's over 100,000 miles on the factor plugs regardless of whether they have misfires. amzn.to/49gvKrp
2) When you have misfires, don't assume it's spark plugs though. Ignition coil packs can be stressed out because of these related issues. So test them to know the exact cause: th-cam.com/video/fbmwImqPRfI/w-d-xo.html
3) Yes, I'd disable VCM (Eco) and it will mitigate oil burning. Regulations are different in different states. But I can say it hasn't been a problem in PA, as in many other states people reported about when disabling VCM.
4) For a 12-year Honda engine, if it hasn't been done, I'd also replace PCV and clean EGR. PCV is a common culprit for oil burning (for Honda and other makes) and it's rather DIYable: th-cam.com/video/bGVFDy7I0j8/w-d-xo.html
5) For the long term, monitor engine oil level and always keep it at max. Change it frequently with full synthetic oil, no more than 5,000 miles or 6 months. If your piston rings are still one piece, good oil will reduce sludge and hopefully restore piston seal over time.
I will keep this in mind but my 06 Odyssey still runs like new with 115Kmile. Mobil 1 every 5000 miles (or so).
Sounds good! 5000-mile oil change is the way to go. Thanks for sharing!
Would it make sense that my VTM-4 / check engine light only comes on when coolant level reaches that level and the other 3 cylinders start firing? Took to dealer and they said I need Oil pressure switch replacement. Should I switch sensor or muzzle the 3 cylinders?
Not sure without the full context. But what does your OBD II scanner say? It's important to scan the code and see what it says. I have another video on Honda oil pressure switch/sensor replacement but that's due to a different issue: th-cam.com/video/CzCDALUYF-U/w-d-xo.html
@@profsg thank you sir. Will get scan
exelent video can i have the part # l have a 2008 honda odyssey exl
Sure! There are many options and here is the one I purchased (shown in the video):
www.ebay.com/itm/265031739235?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=OAXiAu9oRgu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
It is relatively cheap but does require seasonal adjustment of DIPs. Other options include S-VCM (see related comments under this video), which is more expensive but is "smarter" and doesn't require manual adjustment after the initial installation: www.svcmcontroller.com/
I wonder if this solution could also solve the (end result) problem of oil burning consumption plaguing 2010 - 2013 Acura MDXs?
It has a different engine (J37 instead J35 in the Odyssey). But if they share a similar VCM design--looks like they do--the same trick will likely work there to reduce oil burning. Best luck and keep us posted!
Probably since Honda makes Acura.
Is there another link available for the muzzler you purchased?? The link states that the product is no longer available...
Sure! Here is the link to the muzzler (same seller but new product): ebay.us/2niKUj
Will update related links.
@@profsg thank you so much ❤❤❤
Can you please demonstrate this on a recent odyssey like a 2023 or 2024? I opened the hood and looked at it, but couldn't figure out how to do it as everything is covered and it appears a lot more work needs to be done to even access the plug in points. Looking for someone to provide step by step instructions on a recent Odyssey model. Thank you.
Would be happy to if I have a chance to work on one of these. This is the 5th generation Odyssey since 2018, with the J35Y6 engine (direct injection). The following video discusses/shows the coolant pipe placement of J35Y8, and you may be able to find the coolant temperature sensor nearby:
th-cam.com/video/dccGM_r0X-A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gXh4naZDnBFgV8Fy&t=282
@@profsg Thank you.
Do you have a this for Mazda cylinder deactivation
I am not aware of similar products/muzzlers for Mazda's cylinder deactivation system, e.g. SKYACTIV-G. If coolant temperature is a factor in determining when the system turns on or off the feature--which I am not sure about--a similar method will work. But perhaps because of market demand (for much fewer Mazdas are affected by that technology), I haven't seen any product like this in the Mazda world.
For my 2005 honda odyssey it doesn't seem to be working. I first put it on 82 ohms and the VCM is still kicking on. Live in Socal so temps currently are about 85-96 degrees F. Anyone know the sweet spot to keep the coolant sensor from preventing VCM from engaging? I've tried 82, 85, and 92 ohms with no success.
A couple of questions here to understand the situation:
1) Does it have any impact on the coolant temperature reading, e.g. on dash or OBD scan?
2) Is VCM/Eco still turned on as usual? Is it less frequent, compared to when it was without the muzzler?
If it makes no difference at all, it must be a defective. I’d ask for a replacement then.
100 ohms did it for me (at the current outside temps being in the 100+F a 100 ohms is probably needed anyway but you might get away with lower ohms at cooler temps.
I Used VCMuzzler 2 on our 2008 Odyssey and 2017 Ridgeline. I should have known this before our odyssey’s making that tick tick tick noise and it is now tick tack tack tack tack. Our mechanic recommended a used engine for the 2008 Odyssey cheaper to replace than to rebuild the engine…😢
Has valve adjustment ever been done on the engine? I wonder if that noise is due to valve clearance or something else. Impossible to tell without hearing it. I did my valve adjustment at around 100k miles and it doesn't appear to have this issue.
Timing belt tensioner can also make that noise before they completely go out and take the belt with it . Look it up on you tube
@@johnmitchell8925 done 100,000 miles, it is now 180,000 miles in it
@@profsg done but dealership said cannot adjust anymore? They recommend engine replacement. I used tribotex this time.
Yes, timing belt tensioner can be a reason too. You may be able to check or replace it without taking the timing cover off, though don't take my words as I did mine several years ago. It's almost time for another timing belt replacement so you may consider changing it now altogether. Make sure to use the OE AISIN kit for the job.
My 2010 Honda Pilot consumes oil and it has piston rings code? Is this the same way fixing it or no?
What is the exact engine code? P0327, P0328, or something else?
My 2011 Honda odyssey with 125000 miles started burning oil im putting 0W20 oil on it should I change the oil ?
0W20 oil is officially acceptable on most of Honda engines using 5W20. No need to change it, but please do your oil change regularly at 5000 miles and keep an eye on the oil level. If it continues to burn after VCM is disabled, I'd recommend looking at PCV valve and EGR passages. If PCV is clogged, get a Honda replacement part and it's easy to access and replace it on a Honda engine. This is another common reason for oil burning and I hope to do a video on it.
Wait. Does this mean that the ECU is permanently running in open loop, since we're telling it that the coolant hasn't reached operating temp? Wouldn't this kill your fuel mileage?
This is One of the coolant sensors on the engine and the one VCM relies on to determine whether it has reached the ideal condition to turn on. If the adjustment is minor, it will fool the VCM but not affect the other operation. That’s why you may have to monitor engine code and change Dips so it makes no drastic change for the season. There are other options like s-VCM that will make the adjustment automatically and several people have reported positive experiences with that. As for gas mileage, no big difference, somewhere near 1 mpg less, in my experiences.
No, sufficient heat to transition to closed loop.
My 2007 Odessey has a button to turn off VCM. So do i not need the muzzler?
That WOULD be great😀 but I am not aware of such a button on any Honda model. Did you purchase the car from someone who might have installed (modified) it?
@@profsg Im a doof. Thats the vsa button not vcm. 🤦♀Ill be installing the muzzler asap. thank you!
Use the s vcm dont listen to this guy. Anything with a resistor in it will require you to change the resistance manually in different temperatures. Been using the s-vcm for 2 years now with no flaws
No objection to S-VCM muzzler, which I’ve heard good words about. Glad it worked out for you. I’m happy with the cheap VCM Dipressor too and don’t mind the manual adjustment.
I can use this one for Honda accord 2008 v6 ?
It shares a similar VCM design and can use the same trick to inactivate the eco mode.
The piston rings poor design is also contributing to the oil consumption issues. Isn't the piston ring the primary reason for oil consumption? I would think the VCM is a secondary issue. Can someone kindly explain, thank you.
In the ideal world, piston rings should seal cylinders perfectly and there is no gap for oil to seep in. In reality, there is wear and, you are right, over time the piston ring can no longer seal it perfectly and makes it possible for oil to get into the combustion chamber. However, oil won't really get there without a vacuum. VCM, by shutting off some cylinders, creates such vacuums to suck in the oil. And that's why it's the culprit.
Also wanted to comment on something related--
Another common cause for oil consumption across many engines is a clogged PCV, which increases the pressure in the crankcase and thus forces oil into combustion chamber. On the Honda engine, this is another cheap and easy fix, and I hope to make another video about it.
@@profsg thank you. So helpful !!
I installed a smart vcm without the resistor settings. It's been about a year and now my 09 odyssey was 2 1/2 quarts low IDK if this is the answer
From what I heard, s-vcm is a good product, an improved version of what I have in the video. If you no longer see the Eco indicator, the problem with VCM is taken care of. Now the other common culprit for oil consumption is PCV and I have a separate video about it: th-cam.com/video/bGVFDy7I0j8/w-d-xo.html
Very simple to replace. Given the age of your vehicle, you should change it if it hasn't been replaced.
Is it 2 1/2 quarts down between oil changes? I assume you do it every 5k or 6 months whichever comes first?
Between oil changes i drove my wifes Odyssey and had made a right hand turn and for a split second the oil light turned on. I checks the oil and it was extremely low there's no oil on the drive way and no visible oil from the valve cover or the solenoid area
The vcm defeat does the job it deactivated the eco mode for sure and it does burn more gas and I haven't had a problem with it sense.
Yes, this is a common problem and many people realized that like you did when the low oil pressure light showed up.
What about Acura mdx 2010 do I need the same one?
Does it have the J37A1 engine? Looks like it doesn't have VCM so no worries about that. :)
I'm I Pennsylvania I bought a 91 ohm muzzler. Will that work in the winter aswell?
91 ohm will work in the spring/summer in PA. It might throw a code in the winter. You may consider switching to an 82-ohm in the winter, which works for me.
Is there a in between were you can set and forget?@profsg
It's possible to find an ohm in between for most of the time. But I believe it may still throw a code occasionally, if not rarely. If you know the code is okay, you can ignore it and let it disappear on its own. There is also a pricier S-VCM controller that can automatically adjust itself.
Imma give 85 a shot the worst it could do is activate eco once every moon lol @profsg
Can I use this for Honda Odyssey
Yes, the vehicle in video is a 2010 Odyssey Ex-L. Honda continues to use VCM in later models so this in principle still applies.
on new cars would this be not covered by warranty on the v6 engine?
Good question! Yes they are. The problem is, when these issues start to emerge, the warranty will have expired. I believe Honda power train coverage is 5 years or 60, 000 miles. My Odysseys oil burning started at around the 7th year and 80,000 miles. What a perfect design?!
Honda vehicles are great! But unless you address the issues early on, the overall reliability is a question. My vehicle is a few miles away from 160,000 and is still running perfectly! Plan to discuss major maintenance items and issues for longevity on Honda in a future video.
I should add that it's considered "normal" for engines to burn oil. How much is excessive oil burning is subject to the manufacturer's definition. So it's likely they won't fix it even if it's under warranty because this is just "normal"!
Hi there, unfortunately the eBay URL did not bring up the product. Could you please update the link so I can be sure that I'm getting the same product? Thanks.
Appreciate the catch! I just realized the seller discontinued that model I purchased and here is their current product (sold by osibana):
ebay.us/Xq5fZ2
Updated the link in video description.
@@profsg When your Odyssey burnt oil, did you observe any smoke from the exhaust? Mine smokes for a few seconds sometime after the car is in motion. I've not looked observed when exactly the whiff of smoke appears from the exhaust, but I suspect that it is when Eco mode is turned off.
No, I didn't see smoke from my exhaust. But make sure you know it's not water vapor (due to condensation over night) and observe the characteristic/color/smell of the smoke (e.g. hopefully not white smoke due to coolant leak). If oil consumption is an issue, definitely disable VCM and replace PCV. After this is addressed, monitor the smoke (if it's still there) knowing it's not due to oil burning. PCV is another common oil burning culprit (for all engines) and I have another video on its replacement: th-cam.com/video/bGVFDy7I0j8/w-d-xo.html
OOPs. more like $ 1100.00 US dollars from the Honda dealer but from the Honda discount parts dealer it was $800.00. Never go to the Honda dealer they have high overhead which is passed onto the innocent consumer.
Yes, catalytic converters are expensive.
can I have part # please
There is no part number as this is a mod and not part of Honda’s design. Here is the link to the VCM Dipressor:
www.ebay.com/itm/265031739235?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=OAXiAu9oRgu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
The above is relatively cheaper but does require seasonal adjustment of DIPs. Many other options available on the market and people have reported positive experiences with products such as S-VCM in the comments.
I got this 10k mile/ annual oil, went 8k and oil light came on had like 1qt in the engine 😢
Sorry to hear about that! The promotion of 10k mile oil change is nonsense. Definitely go back to normal 5k miles or 6 month oil change. Synthetic 5w20 or 0w20 is acceptable on this engine.
This is a workaround. What is the real fix? Engine rebuild?
I think of it as a software workaround. Theoretically Honda could have updated the software to deactivate VCM but don’t think that will happen. The idea of these muzzler products is to create a false environmental signal for the software to believe the condition isn’t ready to activate VCM.
@@profsg I get how it works. I also get that by telling the ECU the engine is colder than it is, the target AFR will be (slightly) wrong.
My point is that I am guessing the car was OK some time ago, it did not have the issue when it was new. How to bring it back to that state? Or, what is causing the issue?
Good point! This would have never happened in the ideal world. But there is no perfect seal (e.g. with piston rings) and, over time, there is wear and tear. When an engine gets aged, the activation of VCM will always create vacuums (no firing) in certain cylinders which tend to suck oil into the combustion chamber. Again, when the engine is worn and piston rings no longer seal the cylinders that well, they all make it easier for oil to get in and get burnt. Hope this makes sense.
BTW, there is another common reason for oil burning because of blow-by and I've just posted another video about it:
th-cam.com/video/bGVFDy7I0j8/w-d-xo.html
Feel free to post a comment or question there.
@@profsg ow, I thought that when a cylinder is not firing the valves are also driven in such a way that those cylinders are simply moving air in and out. Thanks for the pointers.
Sure! The reason the valves don't open/close on the deactivated cylinders is because this is not a direct injection engine (on J35A6 here). If the valve opens to let air in, it will be air/fuel mixture and will waste the fuel that it was designed to save in the first place. :)
Try using high millage oil
I tried and it didn't make a difference. It may help mitigate oil leak with high mileage additives. But I did replace valve cover gaskets etc and there is no leak.
У меня Одиссей 2016 года,пробег 120000 миль,масло от замены до замены,не доливаю ни грамма
Thanks for sharing!
It will fix nothing permanently unfortunately, my VCM was disabled during the first 1000 miles, I'm at 160K miles now and it uses a quart of oil for 6000 miles. All Honda engines start consuming oil after 100k miles. I have switched to 5w-30 now from 0w-20, hope it helps
Don't get discouraged. Did you meant after the first 1000 miles the VCM muzzler no longer works? You may need to adjust muzzler resistance if the ECO light comes on due to seasonal temperature fluctuation. This will mitigate oil burning if not completely eliminating it. Mine is over 160K miles too. Frankly, burning 1 quart every 6000 miles is not bad at all. Even newer engines burn oil and, per Honda's standard today, burning 1 quart every 1000 miles (perhaps even every 750 miles) is "acceptable". I don't think so; but yours is manageable. Switching to 5W-30 is okay; but I doubt it will reduce oil burning. BTW, have you ever replaced PCV and cleaned EGR passages? Keep up with regular good oil changes every 5000 miles / 6 months and your engine will do just fine.
@@profsg Thank you for your answer. What I tried to say I've installed it VCM Muzzler at 1000 miles on brand new car, VCM was fully disabled. Now at 160k engine burns oil at 1 qt for 6000 miles. It is not my first Honda, they all burn oil at some point. PCV has been replaced as well. I mean Honda owners shouldn't be surprised with some oil consumption no matter what
Thanks for clarifying! You did a great job on the maintenance and the oil burning is minimal compare to many other Hondas out there. I couldn't agree more on the expectation! New engine designs, thanks to EPA's CAFE regulations, are making this and related problems worse.
@@profsg Thank you, Sir!
I don’t have oil consumption, so I’m not disable the vcm, also I get very good gas mileage on city with that
What engine is yours? The next generation VCM is said to perform better. Mine is second generation VCM which is known to have problems. The MPG DIFFERENCE is minor. My muzzled engine is about -1 mile per gallon worse but I now have the peace of mind that it is reliable for the long run.
@@profsg 2022 Honda ridgeline
Yes, it comes with a new (hopefully improved) version of VCM. It's the latest and only time will tell how it will endure the real test. Honda engines are great but VCM often falls short. Two areas to look out for--potential oil burning and engine mounts.
@@profsg I hope so, thank you for the info
I'm curious why having one bank of cylinders disabled would cause oil consumption. I have a 2012 Odyssey and just purchased a VCM Muzzler, however I don't have an oil burning issue so this is more of a preventative measure. It's at 135k miles and I'd like to ultimately reach $300k miles.
The short answer is it creates vacuum making it easier for oil to get in, unless there's perfect seal which is never the case with an aged engine.
My 2012 odyssey is at 156k miles and just experienced spark plug fault 8000 miles after new spark plug due to oil buildup. Dip stick showed no oil. I will be trying this out.
@@cullenflake3163 - I'd also check (basically shake) the PCV valve too. Hopefully it's clogged as it's an extremely inexpensive part and very easy to check and replace.
@@cullenflake3163 Yes. And as suggested here, check and replace PCV: th-cam.com/video/bGVFDy7I0j8/w-d-xo.html
I suppose your new plugs are OE or OE quality with Iridium like NGK or Denso. Otherwise I'm not surprised by failed plugs after the low mileage on an aged engine.
There are other bad side effects to VCM, including fouled plugs and premature failure of ignition coils, CAT converters, motor mounts, PCV and piston rings.
the catalytic converter is $11.00 expensive.
Is that the shipping cost? :-D
I buy q V6 for a V6 not so it can secretly switch into Geo metro mode and become a 3 cylinder engine 🤬 if i wanted oil consumption i wouldn't buy Honda
Agreed. Unfortunately this design is all about MPG numbers on paper rather than long term reliability for the consumers.
@@profsg yes sir the EPA has ruined Honda 🤬
@@friendofvinniethat’s problem to much dam government on the back of these manufacturers I absolutely hated Honda for this my 2000 EX V6 249,679 K miles have no where near the problems my 2010 Honda coupe V6 with that stupid VCM
Just make 3 cylinder cars again like geo metro problem solved.
Cool! Glad it helped!
Gas is cheap, oil is not.
1 gallon of oil = $20
1 gallon of gasoline = $3
LoL. Though gas is no longer that cheap anymore. I remember when I first arrived in the US twenty years ago, it was only $1. Time flies.
What is ohms
It is a unit of electrical resistance: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm
Here the sensor uses the resistance reading to project the temperature, which is some inverse function of resistance. By adding resistance (ohms), the muzzler fools the sensor (the computer actually) to get a lower temperature reading.
A related video about oil burning, due to PCV: th-cam.com/video/bGVFDy7I0j8/w-d-xo.html
This does not happen on the 2016 accord v6 vcm
Does it have the third generation VCM? This is a common issue with the second generation, which is on my engine (j35a7). There appears to be an improvement in later versions, but it is not always consistent. My problems only appeared around 80k to 90k miles. So keep an eye on the engine oil level.
@@profsg it has the earth dreams engine
@@profsg 2016 is the 9th generation idk where you get 3rd
@@jaxripper251 I was referring to the generation of the VCM technology, not the vehicle model or engine itself. The VCM in the video is 2nd generation. Your 2016 Accord with earth dreams has the next or 3rd generation VCM, which should be improved according to reports (starting in 2013). Hopefully it is no longer a major issue with yours, but time will tell and it's good to monitor it.
@@profsg I looked it up thousands well over 100k for 2016 v6 no oil.consuption at all
Thank you!!!
You're welcome!