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I would not recommend this approach. You can do it but with a big IF. If you know for sure the existing fluid is at the correct level and you will measure the amounts at the same temperature.. Especially after many years and miles, there is a chance the fluid level is incorrect. Someone might have touched it or it's low due to leak/seepage or fluid degradation.

With only 75,000 miles or so in Toyota land, it's relatively safe to replace the transmission fluid. But don't replace all at once (flush), drain and fill instead and do it regularly.

Part numbers and links are in the video description, which I copied here: 1. Honda Oil Pressure Switch, part#: 37240-R70-A04, amzn.to/3IoBSCT 2. O-ring, part#: 91319-PAA-A01, amzn.to/3Im2c0o

So glad it helped! This is exactly what I hoped to help people accomplish through videos like this.

Sure. A couple of questions here: 1) By "music and audio are fine", do you mean music/audio from your phone works fine? 2) If other apps on your phone have sounds but navigation (Apple or Google Maps) doesn't, then it's related to settings on your phone or app. Google Maps, for example, does have a muted mode which can be toggled (back to full voice guidance) on its maps interface. Also double check whether your car's audio input is on AUX when you use navigation.

Thank you! Glad it helped!

Short answer is, your oil switch (for a Honda V6) is in the back of the engine just like in this video. A Honda V6 (J35) engine has two banks in the V-shape design, one in the front (bank 2) and one in the back (bank 1). I guess the confusion is due to the use of (inline) 4-cylinder engines on some Accord trims, which have essentially only one bank with the oil switch indeed accessible from the passenger-side. Hope this clarifies.

@profsg Thank you for answering I just kept seeing videos where the oil pressor switch on newer Hondas you had to remove the passenger (left side) tire and some were in the back on the right side

No, adaptation reset is not required on this transmission. It's all good following the procedure here. For the transfer case on this model, there is a procedure to reset its adaptation, which I did in another video.

If piston rings are stuck, this won't eliminate oil burning entirely. More frequent oil changes is a long-term solution but you may also consider treatments such as BG engine performance restoration. I haven't had the need to use it but have heard good words about it. amzn.to/3OieSZc

This might be related to ground wiring. Not sure if this is what you got but some people reported having separate GRND (or perhaps labeled GND/ground) and GRND-audio wires. Their solution was to splice them together, wrap/tape it, and do not connect it to ground.

You bet! Have fun!

This is incredible! I wouldn't have touched it at this mileage but am glad it worked out fine. Curious about how fluid looks/feels/smells at 300k. If fluid condition is okay, the transmission oil filter (likely a strainer) is probably fine and in need of no replacement. But in case you did replace that too, let us know what you see/think of it holding up to this high mileage. No doubt Toyota/Aisin overbuilt this beast and that gives us confidence in the OE quality. Thanks for sharing!

This is great! I can imagine the filter (strainer) still in excellent condition. I wouldn't bother replacing the filter but doesn't hurt to do so if you use OE filter and pan gasket, and be gentle on the pan bolts. :)

Sure. This is a frequently asked question and I'm happy to answer it again. :) First, what I did in the video is the standard service procedure for Toyota/Lexus vehicles. Second, I have two reasons against the volume-match approach your mechanic followed: 1) The premise of the volume-matched approach is that the existing/old fluid in the transmission was at the correct level. While no one would doubt a correct factory fill, chances are over the years the fluid might have been touched or lost/reduced due to leaking, fluid degradation, etc. You won't get to the correct level by matching an already incorrect old fluid level. 2) The volume of fluid varies at different temperature levels so you will have to measure both (old vs. new) at the same temperature. Especially for a vehicle with a lot of miles/services, I wouldn't trust the existing fluid level is correct. Hope this clarifies.

Doesn't hurt to be cautious and take it step by step. Once you know the condition of the fluid and confirm there are no issues, you can proceed with regular maintenance.

Thank you!

Glad you liked the video! This is a common question/practice but here are my reasons against it: 1) The premise of the volume-matched approach is that the existing/old fluid in the transmission was at the correct level. While no one would doubt a correct factory fill, chances are over the years the fluid might have been touched or lost/reduced due to leaking, fluid degradation, etc. You won't get to the correct level by matching an already incorrect old fluid level. 2) The volume of fluid varies at different temperature levels so you will have to measure both (old vs. new) at the same temperature. Especially for a vehicle with a lot of miles/services, I wouldn't trust the existing fluid level is correct.

@@profsgyou are absolutely correct.

About every oil change, 5000 miles or so. You can probably stretch it to 7,500 but keep it within 10,000.

​@@profsg Thanks!

Thanks for asking! I performed brake flush and ABS bleeding at the end of this ABS replacement video: th-cam.com/video/DD0IsD4A7vU/w-d-xo.html Hope it helps.

Toyota eCVT on these hybrid models are very different from automatic transmissions and even CVTs of other manufacturers. Good news is eCVT does't have the type of clutch materials with potential wear and tear to cause problems when you replace fluid at a high mileage. In short, the concerns/risks I discussed in this video does NOT apply to your eCVT and it's relatively safe to replace transmission fluid even when you have driven a lot of miles on it.

@@profsg I'm in the same boat. eCVT with 150K miles, what type of Toyota fluid do I need to use, WS or FE?

@@dieselpower3202 For Toyota eCVT, it's typically the same WS fluid as on automatic transmissions. This should be the case with 2015 IS 300h but double check your owner's manual. It should list Transmission Fluid Type under Specifications / Maintenance and usually after Engine Oil/engine-related specs.

You're very welcome! Glad it was helpful!

For mostly highway miles, you should be fine as it has much less wear and tear. Ideally, take an oil sample to check fluid condition but it is probably fine to proceed with a drain and fill.

@ I’m not even sure where I would be able to take it to have the oil analysis done. What are things to look for in the drained fluid before doing the refill. I have the Toyota atf-ws from the dealer. Just hope nothing goes wrong

You can request a oil test kit from Blackstone (www.blackstone-labs.com/), among others, for transmission oil analysis and mail the sample back to test it. If oil condition/degradation is acceptable with minimal metal wear, then it's generally safe to proceed with a transmission fluid replacement. But again, if you know most of 150k miles were on the highway, which is light driving condition, chances are your Toyota/Aisin transmission/fluid condition is okay.

If you drain the fluid already, while not entirely scientific, you could get a sense of fluid condition by its "look" and "feel." Apparently, it won't be bright red like new. It will be quite dark for sure, but you don't want to see/smell/feel black, burnt, and gritty or even sludgy oil with lots of metal shavings/particles. In this case, especially if you can hardly see any redness hue as it drains, doing anything to the fluid becomes very risky.

@profsg Well I got it done. Fluid was pretty dark but didn’t smell horrible, some small metal pieces I think at the bottom of the pan. Took it for a drive after and it was shifting better. So thank you for the great videos to help me to do it by myself since the dealer here said they don’t change the lifetime fluid!

Thank you! Pennzoil is great and I love the fact that its base is converted from natural gas. For engine longevity though, the most important factor is regular oil changes rather than the brand of oil. Any synthetic oil is good for 5,000 miles (or less for turbo-charged engines). I have no problem with Kirkland (Costco) and Mobil 1 oil too (another great brand but don't follow their 10,000 miles recommendation) especially when I can get it at a discounted price at Costco. Bottom line is, any oil meeting your engine's SAE (e.g. 0W20) and API (e.g. SP) or ILSAC (e.g. GF-6) specification can be trusted!

@ thanks for the info, I used Castrol before and never tried Penzoil, but I agree with the fact that frequent oil changes are important for longevity of the engine.

Copied predicted vote numbers in video description here: On Sunday 11/3/2024, my model predictions on Bucks and blue wall states: * 2024 Bucks County PA Presidential: Harris/Walz: 49.47% Trump/Vance: 49.53% (flip) * 2024 PA Presidential: R Votes / D Votes: 1.02493069 Harris/Walz: 48.89% Trump/Vance: 50.11% (Winner) * 2024 WI Presidential: R Votes / D Votes: 1.02493069 Harris/Walz: 48.95% Trump/Vance: 50.05% (Winner) * 2024 MI Presidential: R Votes / D Votes: 1.02493069 Harris/Walz: 49.02% Trump/Vance: 49.98% (Winner)

that itself is an open question.

The best would be to replace the connectors to fuel injectors. Double check compatibility and this appears to fit your vehicle: amzn.to/3CdF84e Also clean your injector terminal/pins with contact cleaner to make sure you have good connections. Best luck!

Whether something is scientific or not remains to be tested. It's an open question and we will know on Tuesday (or later) how accurate or inaccurate this is. You have a valid point about data collection. The sample size can be easily increased if this approach turns out to be worth pursuing. But underestimate the methodology because of its simplicity. This is not too small of a sample to be dismissed, compared to a thousand or so respondents big pollsters rely on. The real question is how representative the data (signs) are. I was initially thinking about excluding signs on public land, as they are indeed part of campaign operations, but included them in the end. I'll say this: The majority of signs I spotted were on private properties, which are to a higher degree representative of voter enthusiasm or potential turnout.

Also there is no logical or even intuitive reason to count a large sign as +2. Also, I think people in 2016 and 2020 were closeted supporters of Trump. Now I feel it’s the reverse, they are shameless about Trump and for Harris there is more hidden support

My justification for +2 for not just a larger sign but a more decorated scene is the increased likelihood of voting themselves but also potential broader support they represent (e.g. getting family/friends to vote as a block). Your points are interesting but they remain hypotheses until tested. There is more to be done, in retrospect, to test any of these hypotheses/biases including mine. But collecting data before they are gone is the first step.

Yes, this is one of the top reasons for oil burning. How many miles on your vehicle? Is it a 4-cylinder Honda engine? Burning about a quart of oil (difference between min and max on dipstick) between oil changes is not bad. Looks like you are doing regular oil changes and that's very helpful! Monitor your oil level and top it off when it's low. In the end, they are all going to burn some oil anyways due to age and normal wear. Keep up with your good work!

R&D invented this! :) Unfortunately, it's all about emissions and looking good on paper for regulations.

The purchased used unit should be drained and refilled with new fluid for sure. Any fluid sitting inside the unit is no good, due to oxidation /moisture/etc. Before it's installed, it's a good idea/time to remove the pan, inspect the fluid, and change the filter. See how much shavings/particles are in the fluid and the condition. At 90k miles, the fluid should be darker but hopefully not burnt and the amount of materials is acceptable (to the capacity of the magnets on the pan). Also makes sense to replace the fluid filter or strainer but do NOT use any aftermarket filter. OE parts only and you won't regret it.

And after the transmission installation and initial fluid change, if you experience no issues, then follow a 30,000-mile fluid change interval.

No, the pin should be removed for the tensioner to work. It was only used for the installation process, to make it easier to put the belt on before putting tension back on. Hope it makes sense, and do not put back the pin. You could store the pin in your toolbox for next time.

@ Thanks 🙏

Now that you have only driven it for 82000 km (50,000 miles) with the flushed/new fluid, I'd consider a drain and fill and see how it goes from there. If it runs smoothly after, then you can continue with regular drain and fills. If you are uncertain about the transmission/fluid condition, the best is to take a small sample for oil analysis before deciding what to do.

@@profsg thank you so much will do that

Drain and fill will NEVER damage the transmission...it is flush that potentially can...

If done correctly, you might be fine with a flush given the good maintenance and fluid condition. But now that you have done a great job with regular services and have supposedly no issue with the transmission, why would you change the routine for a flush? While your transmission clutch materials are likely in good shape and won't suffer (e.g. slip) in completely fresh fluid, it's a real risk for many vehicles at this high mileage still with factory fluid. Some shops prefer flushing if they already invested in a machine to do so and it's very efficient to replace a lot of fluid (good for business). But again, you did it right with regular drain and fill, and should continue to do so.

@profsg thanks for your thoughtful reply. From my understanding, transmission fluid has five main functions: 1. Lubrication - providing anti-wear and friction modifiers, etc. 2. Heat Removal - helping to dissipate heat from the transmission. 3. Cleaning - removing wear particles and other contaminants. 4. Hydraulics - acting as hydraulic fluid in the torque converter and CVT pulleys, maintaining proper tension in the CVT chain, etc. 5. Sealing - forming seals within the transmission. The reason I wanted to do a full flush is that, with each drain and refill, I can only replace about 5 to 6 liters of fluid, while the rest remains in the system. Over time, I believe the anti-wear and friction modifiers, along with the base oils, deteriorate due to heat, wear, and age. By fully flushing and refilling with new fluid, I hope to restore the anti-wear properties and potentially extend the life of the transmission. I understand that clutch friction material suspended in the fluid can sometimes aid in cases of worn clutch pack slippage. However, since I perform regular fluid drains, I’m hoping this won’t be a concern in my case.

@@postlet37966 Agreed! You are probably fine but, again, don't want any surprise on the last point (by cleaning clutch friction materials with 100% new fluid).I am not aware of any car manufacturer recommending a ATF flush; it's always drain-and-fill on the service manual. I'd instead consider a more frequent change, e.g. every 23,000 miles or drain-and-fill twice on your next service, to replace more fluid. With transmissions, there is no going back once damage is done. Be less aggressive on fluid change so you don't get surprise, even if you think it's unlikely.

Thank you for your reply, @profsg. Your point makes sense. Rather than performing a full flush, I will do more frequent fluid changes. I appreciate your input.

Glad it helped! Removing the mounting bracket wasn't that bad but it does take time and patience, with proper support of the case itself. If the fluid hasn't been replaced lately or you don't know if it has ever been changed, I wouldn't wait too long to change it. Regarding the calibration/reset, it depends on the state of the fluid and sensitivity of the adaptation module. Some had very interesting rides without a reset. Others didn't experience any issue at all. I should have tested the car without a reset first to see how it goes but I missed the opportunity. Will test it next time. :) Ultimately, the module will always relearn and that relearning might be "bumpy" (or take longer) if without a calibration/reset.

​@@profsgthe transfer case fluid would have been changed at 34k miles when the case was replaced under warranty. The vehicle is now at 74k miles so hopefully I have some time.

In this case, I am not so concerned. I am glad about the first change, which is more critical, and you can stretch it a bit for the next one.

Hopefully it's just PCV. If it's a Honda V6, VCM is a very common culprit too. But if it is due to stuck piston rings, besides taking the engine apart for repairs, you may consider piston treatments like MMO. I've heard mixed results though.

Thank you! Glad you liked it.

Replace the fluid every 30,000 miles for CVT transmissions. There is misinformation regarding "life-time" fluid on certain CTVs too. But even Subaru recommends a 50,000 km fluid change in Japan. The truth is CVTs are prone to failure without regular maintenance so make sure to replace it if you have a CVT.

Thank you! I didn't noticed any change. After all, the old fluid degraded but wasn't terrible when I replaced it. But regular maintenance like this renews the fluid for the long term.

You don't need to leave the tool on while working on the brakes. It's okay to turn the vehicle off once the brakes are retracted and you can come back to exit the service mode once the brake job is done.

You are welcome! Glad it helped!

You bet! Glad you liked it!

It's possible to overfill if your vehicle is not level when setting the level. And it can lead to increased pressure and overheating, etc. Make sure your vehicle is level and you let it overflow and drain when setting the level. That said, it's possible you put in more fluid than you took out simply because it was low on (old) fluid.

@@profsgsounds good. I measure what I took out and put the same amount back in because I couldn’t get the car level

Yes if the fluid condition is okay, no leak, no one ever touched it since factory or fluid replacement was done correctly the last time. And measure both old and new fluid at the same temperature (cold).

What I meant to say is there is a chance your current fluid level might be incorrect and you are taking a risk using the volume-match method.

Have fun!

The PID in video for RX350/Highlander/etc doesn't work for a Camry. I used to own a 201 Camry (LE) and it didn't work. I recently found the following PID for 2011 Venza and, given the design/components they have in common, it might work on a Camry: PID: 2182 Long Name: Trans Temp Short Name: Trans Temp Minimum: 0 Max: 250 Unit Type: °F Equation: ((((A*256)+B)*(84/1000))-480)/12 OBD Header: 7E1 Source: www.toyotanation.com/threads/transmission-temp-pid-for-torquepro.1716419/ I'd recommend testing this on your vehicle and keep us posted if you could. Best luck!

Glad it's helpful! I'd be happy to do one on draining intercooler if I can get a hold of a BMW with one. My X3 doesn't have a coolant/water-to-air intercooler though.