I have one its a nice saw, I think the main problem is your a newbe. Use a tape measure, never rely on the numbers on the saw. You really need to watch some videos on how to use a table saw, before you hurt yourself
What a minute....I understand the convenience of the ruler but is it necessary to use the left side of the table? Can't you just use a measuring tape from the fence to the blade? Is it that difficult?
I have the same saw. The measurements work just fine. Read your manual page 43 figure 32 how to set up your fence guide, real easy. The Dewalt tabesaw has the same system. You need to read the manual if you can't figure it out. Also reaching across your blade is not a smart thing to do.
Bro I feel ya. Butt your fence up against the blade, then adjust your ruler guide at zero (transparent piece with the red line in the middle). Now get your tape measure and slide your fence to the right take a measurement from the blade to the front of the fence. When you slide the fence the distance measured should correspond with the ruler. Remember to lock the fence so it doesn't move before tightening the ruler guide. Now you will max out the right limits sooner. Once you max out the right limits you will 26" and some change almost 27". You'll approximately 6" of un used spa e on the rails all you have to do is loosen the fence screws and slide it the remaining distance now your measurement should be around 37 5/8 " give or take, from the blade to the fence. John 3:16
The rulers on these leave a lot to be desired, no doubt. I just use a tape or straight edge anyway. For others watching this, who are on the fence (no pun intended) I was very surprised by this saw. On sale at Lowe's for 389 plus another 10% off with their military discount makes it a tremendous value. Next to a Dewalt or Bosch, this is the best made option they offer.
My dad has the same saw and I this weekend we thought we had the same issue until I figured out that when ripping on the left side you have to measure backwards from 22”.When we put the fence all the way up to the blade the scale reads 22”and at the farthest point to the left it reads 0”. So as long as you can subtract from 22” it should be easy to rip from the left side.
The saw can rip up to 35 inches so the zero is far left. Few people rip on the left side of the blade. If the zero was even with the blade you can forget about a 35 inch rip using the scale. You have your fence on the 35 inch rip post. As you can see there are 3 post to attach the fence. Read the owners manual and your "pisses me off" will fade away and become..."damn I feel stupid" but no worries, we have all been there at some point.
Just bought same saw , don’t think I’m going to have any problems with this saw. I’ve been making a twenty year old Portercable saw work-for me so this saw is going to be sweet! Hope you got it figured out
There is nothing wrong with the tape measure on that saw. I looked at the same one yesterday and the Dewalt DWE491RS which was setup the same way. They are intended for right side ripping, and if you are right handed then I suggest using that side of the blade to make your cuts. This is mostly important for narrow rips. Most right handed people have more dexterity in their right hand. When making cuts where the fence and blade are close to each other, you are less likely to have an accident. Nice saw BTW. I looked at the Hitachi but ended up with the Dewalt. Lowe's carries both saws and they had a big sale on both here in Canada. Liking the Dewalt a little more, I went to Home Depot and got the Dewalt on HD's price match plus an additional 10% guarantee. Consequently, I got the Dewalt for roughly the same price as the Hitachi. If not for those circumstance, I probably would have went with the one you got.
Jim Dent What did you pay?? This saw is 387 with tax where I live. The Dewalt is 425 with tax. Big difference if you ask me. How did you get it at same price??
Regardless of brand name, I never trust the tape measure installed on the table saw. I always use a retractable tape measure and measure from the blade to the fence.
I can understand ripping from the left is a pain, but there isn't a saw on the market designed for the user to stand to the side as you described. It's impossible with a cabinet saw. If I heard you correctly, you'll be tempted to reach over the blade to push a piece through which is an amputation waiting to happen, even using a push stick. My father is left handed and often deals with the frustration that most things are designed for right handed operation. If you want true left handed operation, I suggest getting an Incra TS-LS. It's the most accurate fence on the market from a good company and can be set up for left side operation. Also, please stand behind the saw but to the off-side of the cut. It's much safer; you're not directly behind the blade and you'll never need reach over the blade. Good luck!
Obviously you can't stand completely off to the side for everything, nor would you want to, really, but I do for some cuts because I can put leverage on the front and back of longer wood like ripping plywood and I certainly don't do it when I use my crosscut sled, but for feeding anything long that could become a projectile because it's thin against the fence, which I do try to avoid as much as possible. However, when making multiple strips, such as the slats on the bottom of a crosscut sled, or when I rip 2x4s or wider down the middle to get smaller sticks or planks, I do my best to stand clear of the wood. Nothing about the Toshiba really prevented me from being able to stand off to the side, but the dolly handle does protrude more in that direction than I liked. I definitely see many people standing out of the line of fire and off to the left when making these kinds of cuts and using push sticks. In my brief experience, and I've cut a decent amount of wood, there has ONLY been kickback when the fence was pinching up on the wood as it was coming out. The crosscut sled has made crosscuts a breeze while supporting full on 8' boards as long as I'm cutting close enough to the middle to keep the center of gravity over the sled, and the riving knife seems to keep longer cuts from pinching quite well. When doing those longer cuts, I usually feed half through, rest it on the table, step to the side and pull with opposing upward and downward force from the rear to keep it flush with the table while letting the saw do the work. I did pick up the Skilsaw. I had saw horses already so I just made a nice table top that slides onto the saw horses and is retained on 3 sides and also holds the saw in place on all 4 sides. It takes up less space to store, and is super powerful while being pretty light weight compared to the DeWalt. Basically, Bosch bought Skilsaw so this is kind of a merging of their worm drive with some of Bosch's features like the split guard and the wider t on the fence that helps keep it pretty straight once it's set. It also has the heel adjustment, which wasn't even necesary, because while there are issues with a bent elevator rod, it doesn't take the blade out of parallel.
what? the zero mark will not be "under the blade" as it references the fence in relation to your blade. if you put your fence all the way to the blade that would be your "zero" mark thus the red line is further to the left. be careful
Good video man. To let the haters buggy. You adding value by just creating the conversation. Because you created this video someone else chimed in with exactly what I was looking for to how to calibrate the fence. So thanks for doing what you do and keep it going. I have been creating videos and I enjoy it too.
I have a friend that had this saw and he bought it n couldn't figure how to get it turn on . So I plugged it in and tried to switch it on but can't get the red locking device to unlock. What is the problem
i just bought this saw and think its worth the 419buks i paid for it. i had a lowes 60buk off coupon. personally the only reason i rip on the left side is for some kind of bevel cut and as far as the measuring gauge on it i really dont care. im always gonna put my tape to it. i also throw a quik clamp on the slide bars to make double sure the fence doesnt move. especially when rippin sheet goods on a smaller top table saw.
They have the numbers going from left to right. They should also have the ruler numbers going from right to left if they wanted you to rip in the other direction. Frustrating but i will be stuck ripping in one direction.
jer you are an idiot just like the guy on the video...the rep went straight to the warranty because he didn't speak idiot and it's not his job to teach you.
I have one its a nice saw, I think the main problem is your a newbe. Use a tape measure, never rely on the numbers on the saw. You really need to watch some videos on how to use a table saw, before you hurt yourself
What a minute....I understand the convenience of the ruler but is it necessary to use the left side of the table? Can't you just use a measuring tape from the fence to the blade? Is it that difficult?
I have the same saw. The measurements work just fine. Read your manual page 43 figure 32 how to set up your fence guide, real easy. The Dewalt tabesaw has the same system. You need to read the manual if you can't figure it out. Also reaching across your blade is not a smart thing to do.
Bro I feel ya. Butt your fence up against the blade, then adjust your ruler guide at zero (transparent piece with the red line in the middle). Now get your tape measure and slide your fence to the right take a measurement from the blade to the front of the fence. When you slide the fence the distance measured should correspond with the ruler. Remember to lock the fence so it doesn't move before tightening the ruler guide. Now you will max out the right limits sooner. Once you max out the right limits you will 26" and some change almost 27". You'll approximately 6" of un used spa e on the rails all you have to do is loosen the fence screws and slide it the remaining distance now your measurement should be around 37 5/8 " give or take, from the blade to the fence.
John 3:16
I love my saw. I had it tuned in 10 minutes.
The rulers on these leave a lot to be desired, no doubt. I just use a tape or straight edge anyway. For others watching this, who are on the fence (no pun intended) I was very surprised by this saw. On sale at Lowe's for 389 plus another 10% off with their military discount makes it a tremendous value. Next to a Dewalt or Bosch, this is the best made option they offer.
Charlie H Hell yes, Is say Dewalt, Hitachi, then Bosch. Great saw
My dad has the same saw and I this weekend we thought we had the same issue until I figured out that when ripping on the left side you have to measure backwards from 22”.When we put the fence all the way up to the blade the scale reads 22”and at the farthest point to the left it reads 0”. So as long as you can subtract from 22” it should be easy to rip from the left side.
Yeah, if that had been the only issue, I could've overlooked it. The lack of a heel adjustment is the real dealbreaker.
Heel adjustment th-cam.com/video/V632co2yhD8/w-d-xo.html
I own one and find it to be a great buy. If you adjust the saw properly you will not get kick back. And with the pawl it is even less of a problem.
I just bought it as Hikoki in Europe and in manual they have put in info that when fence on the left zero is at 44cm, and at 0 = 44cm
Are you serious?
The saw can rip up to 35 inches so the zero is far left. Few people rip on the left side of the blade. If the zero was even with the blade you can forget about a 35 inch rip using the scale. You have your fence on the 35 inch rip post. As you can see there are 3 post to attach the fence. Read the owners manual and your "pisses me off" will fade away and become..."damn I feel stupid" but no worries, we have all been there at some point.
Where did you buy your saw and what did it cost? Not finding it in the big box stores.
Just bought same saw , don’t think I’m going to have any problems with this saw. I’ve been making a twenty year old Portercable saw work-for me so this saw is going to be sweet! Hope you got it figured out
How do you read the second set of numbers on the table ruler ?
There is nothing wrong with the tape measure on that saw. I looked at the same one yesterday and the Dewalt DWE491RS which was setup the same way. They are intended for right side ripping, and if you are right handed then I suggest using that side of the blade to make your cuts. This is mostly important for narrow rips. Most right handed people have more dexterity in their right hand. When making cuts where the fence and blade are close to each other, you are less likely to have an accident. Nice saw BTW. I looked at the Hitachi but ended up with the Dewalt. Lowe's carries both saws and they had a big sale on both here in Canada. Liking the Dewalt a little more, I went to Home Depot and got the Dewalt on HD's price match plus an additional 10% guarantee. Consequently, I got the Dewalt for roughly the same price as the Hitachi. If not for those circumstance, I probably would have went with the one you got.
Jim Dent What did you pay?? This saw is 387 with tax where I live. The Dewalt is 425 with tax. Big difference if you ask me. How did you get it at same price??
Regardless of brand name, I never trust the tape measure installed on the table saw. I always use a retractable tape measure and measure from the blade to the fence.
I can understand ripping from the left is a pain, but there isn't a saw on the market designed for the user to stand to the side as you described. It's impossible with a cabinet saw. If I heard you correctly, you'll be tempted to reach over the blade to push a piece through which is an amputation waiting to happen, even using a push stick. My father is left handed and often deals with the frustration that most things are designed for right handed operation. If you want true left handed operation, I suggest getting an Incra TS-LS. It's the most accurate fence on the market from a good company and can be set up for left side operation. Also, please stand behind the saw but to the off-side of the cut. It's much safer; you're not directly behind the blade and you'll never need reach over the blade. Good luck!
Obviously you can't stand completely off to the side for everything, nor would you want to, really, but I do for some cuts because I can put leverage on the front and back of longer wood like ripping plywood and I certainly don't do it when I use my crosscut sled, but for feeding anything long that could become a projectile because it's thin against the fence, which I do try to avoid as much as possible. However, when making multiple strips, such as the slats on the bottom of a crosscut sled, or when I rip 2x4s or wider down the middle to get smaller sticks or planks, I do my best to stand clear of the wood. Nothing about the Toshiba really prevented me from being able to stand off to the side, but the dolly handle does protrude more in that direction than I liked. I definitely see many people standing out of the line of fire and off to the left when making these kinds of cuts and using push sticks. In my brief experience, and I've cut a decent amount of wood, there has ONLY been kickback when the fence was pinching up on the wood as it was coming out. The crosscut sled has made crosscuts a breeze while supporting full on 8' boards as long as I'm cutting close enough to the middle to keep the center of gravity over the sled, and the riving knife seems to keep longer cuts from pinching quite well. When doing those longer cuts, I usually feed half through, rest it on the table, step to the side and pull with opposing upward and downward force from the rear to keep it flush with the table while letting the saw do the work.
I did pick up the Skilsaw. I had saw horses already so I just made a nice table top that slides onto the saw horses and is retained on 3 sides and also holds the saw in place on all 4 sides. It takes up less space to store, and is super powerful while being pretty light weight compared to the DeWalt. Basically, Bosch bought Skilsaw so this is kind of a merging of their worm drive with some of Bosch's features like the split guard and the wider t on the fence that helps keep it pretty straight once it's set. It also has the heel adjustment, which wasn't even necesary, because while there are issues with a bent elevator rod, it doesn't take the blade out of parallel.
what? the zero mark will not be "under the blade" as it references the fence in relation to your blade. if you put your fence all the way to the blade that would be your "zero" mark thus the red line is further to the left. be careful
fastcap sells roll of the ruler. I'm sure you would be able to change it out.
Good video man. To let the haters buggy. You adding value by just creating the conversation. Because you created this video someone else chimed in with exactly what I was looking for to how to calibrate the fence. So thanks for doing what you do and keep it going. I have been creating videos and I enjoy it too.
I have a friend that had this saw and he bought it n couldn't figure how to get it turn on . So I plugged it in and tried to switch it on but can't get the red locking device to unlock. What is the problem
I always rip on right, it works for me!!! The best Things for you is WHAT YOU LIKE, if this One, Doesn’t Works for you is BECAUSE IS NOT FOR YOU!!!’
I own this saw and stumbled across your video. I couldn't disagree more. Just use a bit of common sence.
i just bought this saw and think its worth the 419buks i paid for it. i had a lowes 60buk off coupon. personally the only reason i rip on the left side is for some kind of bevel cut and as far as the measuring gauge on it i really dont care. im always gonna put my tape to it. i also throw a quik clamp on the slide bars to make double sure the fence doesnt move. especially when rippin sheet goods on a smaller top table saw.
Research before you post negative opinion so you do not look so clueless.
They have the numbers going from left to right. They should also have the ruler numbers going from right to left if they wanted you to rip in the other direction. Frustrating but i will be stuck ripping in one direction.
jer you are an idiot just like the guy on the video...the rep went straight to the warranty because he didn't speak idiot and it's not his job to teach you.
Check out Bob chase video on table saws I think it might help you out
Read You manual 🤪🤪🤪
“Spaghetti code in the manual on how to set those....”. No it’s not. Newb....
I do not see why your so tore up over the ruler. I mean come on mate, use a tape if you have too. This is just unnecessary crying. Smdh 🙄
newb just use a tape