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I just bought it as Hikoki in Europe and in manual they have put in info that when fence on the left zero is at 44cm, and at 0 = 44cm

Where did you buy your saw and what did it cost? Not finding it in the big box stores.

newb just use a tape

Did you ever figure out that the fence locks are adjustable? Seems your issues in both videos are a lot to do w inexperience w table saws in general. Your issue with the ruler on the saw is moot. In 25 years I've never met a professional who would even consider using the built in ruler to set a fence.

What a minute....I understand the convenience of the ruler but is it necessary to use the left side of the table? Can't you just use a measuring tape from the fence to the blade? Is it that difficult?

what? the zero mark will not be "under the blade" as it references the fence in relation to your blade. if you put your fence all the way to the blade that would be your "zero" mark thus the red line is further to the left. be careful

How do you read the second set of numbers on the table ruler ?

Just bought same saw , don’t think I’m going to have any problems with this saw. I’ve been making a twenty year old Portercable saw work-for me so this saw is going to be sweet! Hope you got it figured out

You are wrong. There are 2 Allen bolts at the back of the blade assembly that can be loosened to move that assembly left or right to make even a significant adjustment.

I have had a issue with the fence locking in place, it will not. The fence lock handle should lock the fence in place. After It's locked, I can push or slide the fence further from the blade by hand. This sucks! Is there a way to tighten the fence that you know of.

Regardless of brand name, I never trust the tape measure installed on the table saw. I always use a retractable tape measure and measure from the blade to the fence.

The saw can rip up to 35 inches so the zero is far left. Few people rip on the left side of the blade. If the zero was even with the blade you can forget about a 35 inch rip using the scale. You have your fence on the 35 inch rip post. As you can see there are 3 post to attach the fence. Read the owners manual and your "pisses me off" will fade away and become..."damn I feel stupid" but no worries, we have all been there at some point.

How do I adjust the face of the fence? It is not flush with the table and the top of the face of the fence is not square with the bottom of the face of the fence unless I put pressure on the back part of the fence. Thanks for any help you can offer.

Bro I feel ya. Butt your fence up against the blade, then adjust your ruler guide at zero (transparent piece with the red line in the middle). Now get your tape measure and slide your fence to the right take a measurement from the blade to the front of the fence. When you slide the fence the distance measured should correspond with the ruler. Remember to lock the fence so it doesn't move before tightening the ruler guide. Now you will max out the right limits sooner. Once you max out the right limits you will 26" and some change almost 27". You'll approximately 6" of un used spa e on the rails all you have to do is loosen the fence screws and slide it the remaining distance now your measurement should be around 37 5/8 " give or take, from the blade to the fence. John 3:16

It can also be adjusted by loosening the fence adjustment knob - 2 bolts underneath. Its likely off 1 tooth on the sprocket. I made that adjustment it was perfectly aligned after.

I always rip on right, it works for me!!! The best Things for you is WHAT YOU LIKE, if this One, Doesn’t Works for you is BECAUSE IS NOT FOR YOU!!!’

I do not see why your so tore up over the ruler. I mean come on mate, use a tape if you have too. This is just unnecessary crying. Smdh 🙄

“Spaghetti code in the manual on how to set those....”. No it’s not. Newb....

OMG really! You one of those ppl that bitch the little high school girls at starbucks because they can't call it a "Large" th-cam.com/video/Yvy5lRbW3f0/w-d-xo.html

For your safety you need to find another hobby and or job so you don't hurt yourself

there is an allen wrench adjustment on the rear

I own one and find it to be a great buy. If you adjust the saw properly you will not get kick back. And with the pawl it is even less of a problem.

Read You manual 🤪🤪🤪

The fence is adjustable by loosening and moving the screw that the fence bracket hooks to. See page 41 in the manual. The set parallel to the miter slots. And yes, there is a heel adjustment.

I have one its a nice saw, I think the main problem is your a newbe. Use a tape measure, never rely on the numbers on the saw. You really need to watch some videos on how to use a table saw, before you hurt yourself

ALSO , just aligning blade and rip fence parallel to each other will stop binding (rive knife in place , always) . BUT if blade is not in perfect align with miter channels you will not be able to take advantage of cross cut sled . The push bar on sled can be made perpendicular to blade BUT the sled will be travelling off to the left or right of blade and making really bad cuts , ( a five cut alignment will lie to you and is worthless )

Part 101 is used twice and is a cradle at both ends of motor mounting . The hex bolts anchor the plate that the front cradle is mounted to . Loosen both to adjust. ( the cradles are attached with Philips screws and adjust nothing ) The hex nuts are metric , 10 mm .

Research before you post negative opinion so you do not look so clueless.

First adjust your rail. It looks like the back is kicked out to the right. Loosen the bolt the rear of the rail hooks and adjust your rail. The get a 10mm socket with at least an 8 inch extension go under the saw and loosen the two bolts located in the front of the saw. They are approximately 3 inches apart and each located parallel two phillip head screws. They are the only 10 bolts in the front the table. This will loosen the front part of the blade assembly. Then bring your rail close to the raised blade and make it parallel to your rip fence. Go under the saw and tighten the screws when you are happy with the adjustment.

I love my saw. I had it tuned in 10 minutes.

Fence adjustment is very easy! 3 tabs the fence mounts to is adjustable with a Allen wrench.

That’s a Easy fix

Well, I could start by saying I obtained this saw today and at first inspection, was ready to return it. However after watching a descriptive video, was ennobled to keep the thing and I was gratified completely upon my observation that this saw is aligned quite differently from others. The trunion was out of alignment over 1/8" which I was able to correct within reason for now, using the two bolts at the operators side, next to the nylon bearing. I then attacked the bumped rack and pinion alignment by loosening a gear and moving the one side into alignment with the other. Finally I had to loosen the bolts the fence attaches to on one side and align (the fence) to the miter slot as the other end was measured. So in conclusion this saw is completely aligned, for now anyway, and I'm confident that it will perform admirably in the future.

Check out Bob chase video on table saws I think it might help you out

Good video man. To let the haters buggy. You adding value by just creating the conversation. Because you created this video someone else chimed in with exactly what I was looking for to how to calibrate the fence. So thanks for doing what you do and keep it going. I have been creating videos and I enjoy it too.

I have a friend that had this saw and he bought it n couldn't figure how to get it turn on . So I plugged it in and tried to switch it on but can't get the red locking device to unlock. What is the problem

You said it. You are a noobie. That's the main issue with the saw, YOU.

Are you serious?

Grow up and adjust it.

I own this saw and stumbled across your video. I couldn't disagree more. Just use a bit of common sence.

They have a page now for this topic in the manual now labeled "Aligning Rip Fence to Blade on page 41.

Pussy

Worse video ever.

i just bought this saw and think its worth the 419buks i paid for it. i had a lowes 60buk off coupon. personally the only reason i rip on the left side is for some kind of bevel cut and as far as the measuring gauge on it i really dont care. im always gonna put my tape to it. i also throw a quik clamp on the slide bars to make double sure the fence doesnt move. especially when rippin sheet goods on a smaller top table saw.

There is nothing wrong with the tape measure on that saw. I looked at the same one yesterday and the Dewalt DWE491RS which was setup the same way. They are intended for right side ripping, and if you are right handed then I suggest using that side of the blade to make your cuts. This is mostly important for narrow rips. Most right handed people have more dexterity in their right hand. When making cuts where the fence and blade are close to each other, you are less likely to have an accident. Nice saw BTW. I looked at the Hitachi but ended up with the Dewalt. Lowe's carries both saws and they had a big sale on both here in Canada. Liking the Dewalt a little more, I went to Home Depot and got the Dewalt on HD's price match plus an additional 10% guarantee. Consequently, I got the Dewalt for roughly the same price as the Hitachi. If not for those circumstance, I probably would have went with the one you got.

The rulers on these leave a lot to be desired, no doubt. I just use a tape or straight edge anyway. For others watching this, who are on the fence (no pun intended) I was very surprised by this saw. On sale at Lowe's for 389 plus another 10% off with their military discount makes it a tremendous value. Next to a Dewalt or Bosch, this is the best made option they offer.

How do you like your Skilsaw?

I have the same saw. The measurements work just fine. Read your manual page 43 figure 32 how to set up your fence guide, real easy. The Dewalt tabesaw has the same system. You need to read the manual if you can't figure it out. Also reaching across your blade is not a smart thing to do.

I can understand ripping from the left is a pain, but there isn't a saw on the market designed for the user to stand to the side as you described. It's impossible with a cabinet saw. If I heard you correctly, you'll be tempted to reach over the blade to push a piece through which is an amputation waiting to happen, even using a push stick. My father is left handed and often deals with the frustration that most things are designed for right handed operation. If you want true left handed operation, I suggest getting an Incra TS-LS. It's the most accurate fence on the market from a good company and can be set up for left side operation. Also, please stand behind the saw but to the off-side of the cut. It's much safer; you're not directly behind the blade and you'll never need reach over the blade. Good luck!

My dad has the same saw and I this weekend we thought we had the same issue until I figured out that when ripping on the left side you have to measure backwards from 22”.When we put the fence all the way up to the blade the scale reads 22”and at the farthest point to the left it reads 0”. So as long as you can subtract from 22” it should be easy to rip from the left side.