Fox Float X Beginners Guide Setup
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ต.ค. 2023
- If you're looking to start using a Fox Float X, then you're in the right place! In this video, we'll show you exactly how to set up your Fox Float X
The part 1 of this video here
• How to Use Your Fox Fl...
Tools you need
Fox float X volume spacers amzn.to/4aJxCcX
Digital shock pump amzn.to/3KocZbt
Dgital measuring tool amzn.to/3ViEqto
Shock I used ebay.us/N8j5WE
Strap wrench to open air amzn.to/4bYoLV - กีฬา
Thank's Otter for all your hard work,so us noobs understand setup better.
Your welcome I was super lost myself a few years ago. Whats your setup?
Perhaps the most insightful video I’ve seen yet. I’ve really been struggling to dial in my Float X, and this video taught me how I was approaching that setup all wrong.
Glad to help 🙌.
Sweet, what travel is yours? I'm away to try set mine up but can't get the bike out just now so just be the sag I can do for now this weather is to crazy in uk just now brand new ebike just sitting driving me mad lol
Commencal have the Fox Float X Factory with 0.6 spacer stock on the Meta. I want that setup now ;)
It’s the good one
I just got mine last Saturday 160mm so need to learn how to set this thing up now mine says max psi 350 but pretty sure won't need all that? Im a heavier rider myself I've not had a chance to get out on my new ebike cause of the damb weather here in UK absolutely dying to get a shot on it! Lol but giving me time to get things set up and checked over! Do these shocks come from the factory with spacers installed like the 38 forks? In the middle of setting these things up aswell will say ots my first more modern full sus so learning curve all over again! I ran coils years ago on my DH but totally changed days these new bikes need all the help i can get here lol
It’s in the video it comes with .3 tokens off the shelf. For sure you need more for heavy guy ebike. Try .7
I've just got one, and I did think that it came with additional spacers. It seems the only spacer it comes with is whatever is factory fitted. Was yours the same?
Just curious now that I’ve been riding this shock with the rx tune on the same bike as you. I weight around 70-80kg so I guess I’m lighter than you, I’ve found myself blowing through travel so I tried the 0.6 volume spacer, but I’m still using the upper end of the range for air pressures and I find my rebound too fast and compression feels underdamped, running out of clicks to slow it down and lacking mid stroke support from compression and/or volume spacer.
Basically still blowing through travel riding downhill (so not even big jumps), any tips? Maybe bigger spacer, or more pressure? Or maybe I just need a different tune because it is underdamped?
What bike are you on? Mine is Kenevo with the big shock?
@@OtterMTBtech Turbo Kenevo, the big boy (comp). Came with this shock and it just blows through travel and feels under dampened
Sounds like you’re packing down. I use the .7 spacer on 3 different float X’s works great on bike. You’re also lighter than me. I’m like 100 kg running 4 clicks of rebound. At about 240 psi. I think your have to low of air pressure or shocks bad.
Having had a Kenevo for 3 years it’s a tricky bike. The best shock I have used on it is the Sun tour coil. It’s a massive slow moving coil shock. Lots of problems on almost all shcoks with Kenevo. Its bigger than most bikes needs a stupid slow rebound. I have countless videos of tuning shocks paying for tunes advise, $400 sun tour coil low ifp pressure the best .
Suprisingly the float X was 2nd best.
I was in the market for a new air shock and I was looking at the used market for a x2 but everyone commenting on reviews says they had reliability issues with it.
I switched back and forth but finally settled on a Jade X coil but still looking at x2's since there's a lot with my configuration for sale on pinbike etc.
You experienced issues?
Yes pre 2024 models will have issues had 3 of them blow out
saw a x2 blow out in the wild on a capra
As I look at it now after my first testride it seems like I must've just had too low airpressure and that was the cause of me bottoming out too easily. I did not know about the need to equalizing the chambers in the beginning, so this may have caused inaccurate readings...
Adjusted to 30% sag(And yes equalizing the chambers from now on) and used recommended rebound and compression settings.
My shock had 0.7 spacer(s) from the factory tuned for my bike, and I bumped it up to 0.9 now. I have checked that I can use a total of 1.0 so I am within spec.
After my first ride on same trails I normally ride, I have at least 20% left of travel and it definitely feels firmer. As my bike has less travel rear than up front and has a more downward biased geometry, I haven't really made up my mind yet if this really is worse. By that I mean that when you're pedaling up or just straight over terrain like normal you're not constantly being swung back with all your weight(I got a slack seattube angle which worsens this even more) which is sucking a lot of energy over time. The bike feels more leveled and tracks the surface better. It's firmer, but I don't really think I want a plush rear shock especially for this bike because that only means my front will get lighter for all the techy uphill parts.
I need to experiment more on this one given my bike has a good pedaling platform(DW link), yet the geometry for pedaling uphill is sub par.
To be continued...
EDIT: Backing off one click of lowspeed compression helped a lot. Still 20% suspension left after trying to have some fun through some fast chunder and some jumps and what not, but is that really a big deal... 🤔
.7 is the one, go back trust me.
@@OtterMTBtech I have actually removed 0.1 so I'm at 0.8 now and I've taken a picture of the shock after my last ride to see how much travel I used. Then I'll do the same ride again, but with 0.1 less spacer and register the difference in feel and amount of travel used. It's so quick to do so other than my old shock pump failed on me right now so I need to wait for a new one, I'd be back trying the changes in no time(Cannot test now because not enough air in the shock).
Gonna try the Topeak PocketShock Digital to see if it will be easier to get the pressure dialed with a digital pump that also has zero loss connection. I did not trust my old analogue Fox pump so my gut feeling tell me that this 10 year old pump may have been the problem all along given it did fail right now earlier when I tried to bring the shock back up to right pressure again.
Final update on trial and error phase...
I'm back at stock factory tune 0.7 tokens in the shock, and with 30% sag and both shock and fork dialed in through the recommended bracketing procedure where you only adjust one aspect at a time. Personally I actually liked the recommended rebound and compression suggested settings by Fox, now that I'm at correct sag, correct token amount and so on. I have to say though that especially with this Float X shock you need to know how the dials work because they do not apply the same chain of thought. The rebound dial has 1 extra click before the number 2 on the dial which is actually 0(fully close), and it has 2 extra clicks after the number 12 which is actually 10(fully open). On the compression dial 0 is 0(fully close) and 10 is 10(fully open) which makes me think somebody must've had a bad day at the office while designing this shock or something because it just makes no sense.
When 1 click of rebound on the rear shock is as noticeable as it is they should have never made these shocks hit the market until they made both dials function exactly the same way because that is the only thing that makes sense, period.
Anyhow, I've at least learned a thing or two now, and written down everything so it's very quick set the correct setup for me. I still have about 25-30% travel leftover in the rear and about 25% leftover in the front after a ride in the trails I like to ride at, and I personally think that's fine. I never liked it when the geometry changes too much during a ride, so I at least feel it's better to have a more balanced bike working more in the midrange of the available travel.
No offense but a lot of this info is just flat out wrong lol. The climb switch is just increases compression by changing the shim stack, its meant to slow things down so you dont have pedal bob on flat or uphills. It is not designed for big impacts and you can damage your shim stack if you have big compressions on it. You need to have the other settings set correctly to have a good ride. Lower your rebound for jump trails, increase rebound for rough trails to keep the tire on the ground.
I appreciate a healthy argument, but you’re wrong. Read the documents, it’s called 2 position lever. Not climb switch. Useful for on-the fly-adjustments. Nothing about shock damage. If you can’t get tokens in it’s far better than clapping the shock out all day. I ride with the x2 lever in firm half the time. Fast rebound on trails out of your pay grade is a great way to crash. Cheers. 🍻
@@OtterMTBtech Did you read it? "The preset low-speed
compression adjustment only has
an affect on compression damping
when the lever is in the OPEN
position. The FIRM mode has a
very firm low-speed compression
setting and is useful for climbing
and sprinting. " I've spoke directly to fox about this when I was on a dpx2, the firm mode slows down the compression and rebound by decreasing the path for oil flow. If you try to exceed this flow you can bend the shims.
Makes sense if it came from someone at Fox, that was also a completely different shock, I wouldn’t try it with a super firm lock out, this one barely firms it up. Allot of people can’t open the shock for tokens. Not sure what’s worse. Clapping it out or climb switch on pick your poison
@@OtterMTBtech If you're clapping it, then that means you don't have enough air or a big enough volume spacer, 25-30% sag is only a reference point (I usually run 20%). The float x should also be harder to "clap" because it has a ~1cm bottom out ring, the previous designs had a 2mm o-ring as the bottom out protection. If you're too heavy, and hitting near max psi on the shock and still bottoming out, this shock isn't for you and you need to go up if your bike can fit the X2 or coil.
Agree, allot of people don’t have the skills to put tokens in. Or money to replace it.
What is new in the Fox Float X 2024 to the 2022? I've seen some sales going on for the 2022.
Nothing
Sorry for probably misunderstanding: the less heavy I am, I want less fast rebound (not damping!). Bc with fast rebound and less weight it will catapult me off the bike. So it has to be other way: faster rebound with more weight, right?
Wrong. More weight more energy going to shock and bike slower rebound. Less weight less energy so needs faster return rate
@@OtterMTBtech Still does not make sense to me, I apologise. If I am compressing with a light weight, the fork does not need to push (me) back fast, as it anyways would come out of the compression easily, hence, better slower rebound (equals less power to push back). If the weight which is higher the more force is pushing the fork into compression, hence the faster (more pushback!) the rebound should be to come back to the initial position. That's how I understand it. And I saw a video where a guy had too fast rebound on the shock and he was pushed out of the saddle and went over the bars. My 2 cents. Maybe I am wrong but that's how it always worked for me. Or what am I missing? Not offending, trying to get it right in my head ;) Thanks for the open conversation :)
Slower is safer for sure. I’m heavy and often run into the problem of the shocks not having slow enough rebound. A kid I know runs into the problem of not fast enough rebound.
Both can be corrected with tunes
The goal is to run the faster rebound while staying in control.
Example blue flow I would crank the rebound up for pop. As this is comfortable riding for me
Crazy jump line or DH rides slower rebound.
Only thing that is right is it feels good, but slower try to crank it faster for best performance
Front and rear balance is important as well.
So the best way to get it. Check the float X setup guide form fox higher air pressures they recommend slower rebound numbers. Fox rebound guide is spot on
I ride a stumpy EVO and I personally found that as I went up in volume spacers, this shock became increasingly harsh. So I moved to the X2 with high speed damping. Rides much smoother. The Float X rides fantastic on the Evo with the .2 volume spacer but there is no bottom out reset all.
Agree, that is linear bike too. Should try hit climb switch for jumping it’s amazing
I have a stumpy evo too. The shock is very good at about 25-27% sag on rockgardens, roots, etc. but i found it quite harsh as i bottom out on flat landings. Also i'm looking for more poppy feeling for getting in the air more easily. Does bigger token could be the solution, or it's just ruin it's performance on rockgardens/roots traction?
Do you have an e tuned float x or the Standart one?
Regular I did couple videos last year with the RX tune from Specialzied was a bit better, not much. Just a good shock
does the RX tune change low speed compression range values due to the increased "leverage"?@@OtterMTBtech
I could not even tell the if it was different@@Tr_Fast
What's your preference, an X2 or Float X both setup properly?
X2 is 👑
is it better for small bump or just all around? Is it a more predictable shock? @@OtterMTBtech
More small bump, more traction. less predicadtiable when jumping @@ashkonsenaati8530
th-cam.com/video/f90oAaXr3tE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=HTTNQ7o_1RWmJnZt
You put first the big token and clip the small 0,1 into it. You sad it the other way around. ;)
😎 setup videos are hard
All this is nonsense
😎
maybe you should get back "to the roots"..use a bike the way its supposed to be..with musclepower. You wouldnt have to be such a "heavy rider" anymore.
I agree, I have an Amish bike I barely ride.