They wanted to charge me 950$ for the spark plugs, 3,000$ for the reseal timing and 1,000 for the water pump and I just found out I can do all this for 400$ in parts in a day
This was all accurate and I couldn't have done this job without this video. Some quick notes: 1) If you have big ol' ham hands, recruit your daughter for this job. Not hard, it is her car and I couldn't have done this without her 2) the driver's side rear plug... if you have a wobble 3" extension I highly recommend it. Also, make sure your extensions are broken in or lubed a little. I almost couldn't pop it off in that spot 3) when you can't find the bolt or tool you dropped with the magnet, bang on the skid plate to get an idea where the rattle is and try again 4) I removed the driver's side engine room power brace to have more room to operate over there
Came here cause I just saw a Instagram mechanic pulling the engine out just so he could change the spark plugs and I couldn't believe my eyes. Great video, man!
This is a real good guide, a few things i found helpfil from just finishing it: 1) angle grinding the ball on 3 in extension so it doesn't stick at all to the 14mm will save ya a lot of trouble, it's a YUGE pain getting it off if you dont 2) most dropped tools / sockets / bolts can be retreived by removing the front tires rather than the 50 bolts on the skid plate (if the magnet doesn't work) 3) ya ya swallow the frog but if I were to do it for the first time again (lol) I would rather progress from easy to hard so I get the feel for how the parts go on/come off 4) I could not for the life of me get the electrical connectors from the coil packs to fully snap on ... Maybe snap on connectors first before boltint on? I dont know 5) the hardest part of the hardest side was getting the driver front coil pack bolt on ... But I got it when i found the perfect angle so I could use both hands... Some finesse is involved lol
RE point 1 - yes, you can do this but I found a workaround. A more creative idea is to go to you kitchen and grab a fork. Hold the fork with your right hand and feed it into the hole in the engine where your 14mm socket is. Hold the 3" extension with your left hand. Use the fork to push against the 14mm deep socket and hold the the 3" extension with your left hand. Should separate pretty easily.
The biggest pain in the ass was the clip on my coil pack and the ball on my 3” extension. I took a grinder to my 3” extension’s ball and it made it so much easier to do this task. I still spent 3 hours total figuring out how to unclip the coil pack, find my grinder, grind down my extension and then pick up my tools that I dropped in my skid plate about a thousand times lol. 10/10 will never do this job again 😂
Hi my name is Lehan i live in Namibia I'm working at a Toyota dealership. Big shout out to to you for this video, worked on a Toyota 86 same flat 4 Boxer engine as the Subaru, had to change spark plugs. This video held a lot. 😎
Yup, this is the best way i've seen to change the plugs. No fancy tools, no extraneous work. Simple. How often do you change your plugs? Once a race-season?
I've been boosted for 3 years had the car since 2013. Lol since Im running a little rich on the top end I'm about to finally change it for the first time this weekend 😂
if you feel like you might drop something..put like a a long rag tucked right beneath the coil packs, wedged between the engine and the frame. And also to make things even easier, get a long handle 3/8 / 1/4 wrench for better torque.
Tried this and first thing I did was drop the first bolt I took off the injector cover 😅. Tried to do it your way, but couldn't for the life of me get the coil packs unplugged from the connectors. Maybe the connection is different for the 17+, but the stupid wire clip wouldn't come off. Ended up spending about 20+ minutes finagling it before I finally called it. Jacked up the car, put it on ramps, took off the shield, nuts off the engine mounts, and hacked the engine one side at a time. Was able to throw the 14mm deep socket and extension in connected and had a lot of room to work with in comparison to with it all together. Total time was 1hr 38 min, so I think if I start off with the jacking method next time it will go a lot faster. Kind of bummed I wasn't able to do it your way, but in the end it got done. Your video was a great help for visual aid though! Thanks!
Thanks for this, as most have commented on here the hardest bit was getting the loom plug off the coil pack - 10 year/50k miles they really didn't want to be separated. After an hour messing about I just cut the loom anchor which holds the coil pack loom to the block, once removed there was load of slack in the cable allowing coil packs to be simply moved out of the way without the need to unplug them. Once the coil packs are out of the way changing the plugs using your method takes minutes.
This ^^^ Over 50 or 60k ive changed a few and the ignition coils get pretty seized on there and you really gotta be delicate seperating them. Had to pop over to a toyota to grt some replacements, bro didnt change his plus passed 60k and drove his FRS like he stole it 😂
Just thank you for this video mate. Clear, simple and encouraging to do it by ourselves! Saw many other vids, but this is the best so far. Everything well explained, even tools needed, etc. And the demo over the trunk was 10/10. Big hug from spain!
Tip: you don't have to click the extension or the rachet in all the way. Makes it easier to remove everything once loose. Also, I found that while hand tightening or loosening, it was easier to substitute the extension with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. Gave more room for the fingers to twist and the large 1/2" opening was big enough to stick a finger in haha.
Yeah I believe somewhere in there I mention not to click the ratchet onto the extension because it’s tough to get off, especially if you have a push button detent like I do
@@CountersteerGarageis it really that hard to get the ratchet off the extension?? Of course I won’t try my luck haha but I’m asking bc if I accidentally click the extension (by way of habit) will I be screwed?? 😅
Just did mine yesterday following your instructions. My 14mm was too shallow where the spark plug was almost sticking out the end & I couldn't get the 3" extension to lock in. Ended up using a 15mm. Took a bit longer because of the backlash & my ogre hands barely fitting down there, but it worked. Don't do it on a warm motor, shits hot & your hands will burn lol. Great instructions though. If I can do it so can anyone else thinking about it.
About to change mine again so had to review this, much better at showing how than most other so-called how-to videos. A personal twist I put on it is to pull out the socket once the plug is loosened (rather than threading it all the way out), stick a piece of fuel line hose about 3" long on the end of the plug, and use that to finish threading it out and remove the plug. Reverse the process when putting in the new plug -- stick the hose on, use the hose to get the plug in place and thread it in finger tight, then pull off the hose and stick in the socket to finish the job.
Don't I know it, of course I dropped a socket and it got by the rag I'd stuffed down there. Used the magnet a good bit when other bits slipped, for some reason it was easier last time I went through this! Bolt holding the rear coil pack (driver's side) nearly rounded but I got it out, fortunately I found I had a suitable replacement on hand.
I ground out the locking ball from my 3" extension -- makes it far easier to take back out again because everything separates with no worries. If you use the cutting disk on a Dremel too, you can CAREFULLY flatten the ball, then use a tiny screwdriver to rotate it a bit, then do that again, and then the ball should pop right out of the extension leaving you with something that doesn't lock. Much easier to manipulate in the car.
@@renshaw765 Yeah. I did it with the first one. Could feel the strength slowly leaving my fingers as I tried again and again to detach it. I finally managed it using a pair of pliers to hold the extensions, then a small wrench to push off the socket from the back. Then I took the extension straight over to the bench and mutilated it with the Dremel tool before I went any further!!
@@opwernby Nice! My method was using a small screw driver that just happened to be the perfect length to wedge between the socket and frame rail. One hand kept it in place while the other hand pulled on the extension. Of course once it broke loose the screwdriver and extension fell into the engine and had to fish out with the magnet. A little salt to the wound.
Pro tip- stuff a bunch of rags between the chassis rail and the engine. Just underneath the spark plug holes. That way, when you inevitably drop stuff, it doesn't fall into the abyss.
Very helpful, and the extra tips from the viewers help too, I will just air blow the spark plugs before taking them out, thanks for a great and helpful video.
thank you and the algorithm for bringing me here, will keep in mind when time comes! I'm maybe not as dexterous so it took me about an hour to do just one ignition coil on the passenger side last year, hopefully goes better for the inevitable round 2
I'm really loving your channel, brother. Best advice was the "eat the frog" method. Took me close to an hour to do the drivers side alone but like 15 min for the passengers' side. Lol. Can't wait to see what you do next, taco.
In case I have a doppelganger out there: I followed the same procedure on a '15 H4 Legacy. Pretty much identical, but you want to fully remove the metal battery tray shelf before doing the driver side. Removing the air intake for passenger is super easy, so just do it. Like most everyone else, it took me a few hours to do, but wasn't that bad honestly.
I recommend to put a piece of cloth (old shirt or something in the gap betwenn the engine and the chasis, under the working area of the spark plugs. it make the recovery process with the magnet easier, and remember to retrieve it after the job is done!!!! it may cause a fire if you forget to do it.
Doing this job now, thanks for the great video, not feeling good positive contact of the coil pack connecting to the spark plug head so I guess I will just have to go on faith that once then are bolted down they will make good contact, I tested the feel with a spare plug and it is suprisingly difficult to seat the coils onto the plug
I’ve changed clutch master and slave cylinders on my Impreza. I have changes the struts and shocks on my 128i. For some reason I am really hesitant to attempt this lol.
So i am doing mine rn, i am following some advice from a guy at OTL performance. Im using a 9/16th spark plug socket with the rubbber removed, and instead of an extension, i am using a 5/8th socket in its place. Thats way you dont have to worry about popping out the extension
When I do them at work I'll normally Jack the engine as we're got all the covers off underneath anyways for other stuff (atf replacement on autos) makes it a bit quicker.
Getting ready to do this jot and this will help a lot. Question: Would an actual spark plug socket with rubber or magnet to hold the plug in the socket be better?
No! It’ll get stuck in the engine DEFINITELY don’t do that. We use a standard deep 14mm because it allows us to remove each piece one at a time, which is crucial.
Saturn had this cool trick where you could remove wheel and the inner fender to access the business side of the engine, I dunno why Subaru couldn’t have like two removable port holes or something.
Before watched this tutorial, checked the Toyota service manual.... imagine the dealer doing that in such complicated way..... definitely a waste of money if they pull the engine remove everything underneath 😂. Old Subaru ej20 engine service manual doesn't say have to jack the engine.... interesting... right? It should be simple like this man's tutorial 😂
So I'm using a deep socket to change mine, but it seems as when I throw in the 14mm I'm having a problem with the extension locking on... And Im wondering if you're using a longer deep socket...
@@CountersteerGarage thanks, I'll take another crack at it. This is definitely NOT a fun thing to do for this car. A little TLC for the hands is highly recommended after.
The driver side is pretty difficult. I've got scratches all over my arms and hands from the fuel line clips and other various things. I tried covering it all with rags but visibility already sucks. A lot of it can only be done a very specific way, and when you do figure it out, it's still hard as hell to accomplish.
Took ~8 hrs. The config is not fully stock so there were some twisting games around hoses and pipes instead of just removing parts. And at least a couple hrs I was fighting against tools - i.e. the socket had a rubber inside which hooked the spark plug so tight so I was unable to pull it off inside the hole. Had to remove this rubber and then it went faster. Also you can not unplug the coils - it's just a bit more tricky (and i didn't find a quick way to do that as well, lol) As soon as my fingers will heal up my gf gonna be happy, lol
@@CountersteerGarage well, I also had not 2 straight segments but a socket, 2cm connector and a rotatable connector (huge pain in the ss). All this stuff is a bit harder to connect. Annd the config isn't full stock, I have an oil cooler and some more hoses and wires around so at least moving the Injection cover wasn't that easy. But for the next time, as soon as I know how it works, it might take 'bout 2 hours for me, I believe. Not soon, hopefully))
Generally I’d say yes use a torque wrench but on these there’s not enough space. You’ll feel the crush washer bottom out and stop crushing, it’ll feel similar to the oil drain washer. If you’re not 100% confident, I’d get a buddy to help
What if you use a magnetic socket for spark plug ? Would that make it easier or more difficult since u have to pull out the socket and then use the magnet to pull the spark plug
This all looks great, but the problem with almost all of these FRS/BRZ/86 spark plug videos is that I never see a single torque wrench. So, I have an idea: Go to harbor freight and get the 20-200 inch pound torque wrench 1/4” drive (20 ish bucks). Find a buddy to grind off the ball on the torque wrench, and please, for the love of god, torque them down properly to 13 ft/lb (aka 156 in/lb). That way 1) the torque wrench won’t get stuck to the socket and 2) torqued to spec. I’m all for doing shit yourself, but you gotta do it right. Don’t forget the anti-seize and boot grease
Honestly, when I swap those plugs gapped at .023, I’m tall if I don’t raise the car my back ends up hurting. Trust I’ve done it without jacking it. My manz must be short enough not to worry about stuff like that.
My buddy is one of the most respected Subaru technicians/tuners in the country and he does them a similar way. I’m sure I could tag along for his next one
Zipped to the engine? It is a little tight so you’ll have to unplug them before you remove them. You won’t be able to remove them while still plugged in. Not enough slack.
I detail it in the video but it’s super easy; 3/8”: deep 14mm (NOT a spark plug socket, deep 12mm, 3” extension, 10” extension 1/4”: shallow 10mm magnet tool*** SUPER IMPORTANT
@@CountersteerGarage would I need to disconnect the battery for electrical reasons and if not, when do you usually disconnect the battery when working on the car?
I think that would be a lot more work and honestly not sure if the cover would clear the valvetrain on removal with the space allowed. Personally I don’t think I’d try it with the engine in the car.
With a 60k mile replacement interval you really shouldn’t need to grease the threads but it couldn’t hurt to do. A warm engine sounds like it would hurt. Do this one first thing in the AM.
The tab is on the frame side of the connector, the outer side. Sometimes you have to push the connector in more while pressing the tab. There’s no real trick to it, it’s a standard OEM electrical connector. Just make sure you DO NOT pull on the wires as tempting as it may be!
About to change my spark plugs on turbo frs, having a misfire in all my cylinders right now:(. Does anybody know how tight you need to make the spark plugs? Hand tight i would guess?
It’s hard to describe but it should feel similar to your drain plug. It has a crush washer just like your oil drain and you’ll feel it crush and bottom out. DO NOT gorilla these, plugs are hollow and break off easily
Thank you
You just saved me 950$
Ahhhhh I love this!
They wanted to charge me 950$ for the spark plugs, 3,000$ for the reseal timing and 1,000 for the water pump and I just found out I can do all this for 400$ in parts in a day
Resealing the timing cover is a bitchhhh
I saw but it’s not impossible from what I saw on other videos
@@CountersteerGarageneeds more glue than any model aircraft kit 🤣
This was all accurate and I couldn't have done this job without this video. Some quick notes: 1) If you have big ol' ham hands, recruit your daughter for this job. Not hard, it is her car and I couldn't have done this without her 2) the driver's side rear plug... if you have a wobble 3" extension I highly recommend it. Also, make sure your extensions are broken in or lubed a little. I almost couldn't pop it off in that spot 3) when you can't find the bolt or tool you dropped with the magnet, bang on the skid plate to get an idea where the rattle is and try again 4) I removed the driver's side engine room power brace to have more room to operate over there
Came here cause I just saw a Instagram mechanic pulling the engine out just so he could change the spark plugs and I couldn't believe my eyes. Great video, man!
🤣🤣🤣🤣 he should’ve watched my channel
You make it look so easy! Took me at least 4 hrs yesterday but I got it done! Big hands don’t help. Saved me alot of money though. Thanks!
This is a real good guide, a few things i found helpfil from just finishing it:
1) angle grinding the ball on 3 in extension so it doesn't stick at all to the 14mm will save ya a lot of trouble, it's a YUGE pain getting it off if you dont
2) most dropped tools / sockets / bolts can be retreived by removing the front tires rather than the 50 bolts on the skid plate (if the magnet doesn't work)
3) ya ya swallow the frog but if I were to do it for the first time again (lol) I would rather progress from easy to hard so I get the feel for how the parts go on/come off
4) I could not for the life of me get the electrical connectors from the coil packs to fully snap on ... Maybe snap on connectors first before boltint on? I dont know
5) the hardest part of the hardest side was getting the driver front coil pack bolt on ... But I got it when i found the perfect angle so I could use both hands... Some finesse is involved lol
RE point 1 - yes, you can do this but I found a workaround. A more creative idea is to go to you kitchen and grab a fork. Hold the fork with your right hand and feed it into the hole in the engine where your 14mm socket is. Hold the 3" extension with your left hand. Use the fork to push against the 14mm deep socket and hold the the 3" extension with your left hand. Should separate pretty easily.
The biggest pain in the ass was the clip on my coil pack and the ball on my 3” extension. I took a grinder to my 3” extension’s ball and it made it so much easier to do this task.
I still spent 3 hours total figuring out how to unclip the coil pack, find my grinder, grind down my extension and then pick up my tools that I dropped in my skid plate about a thousand times lol. 10/10 will never do this job again 😂
Been dreading to do this job, it's a sunday afternoon and you just gave me the motivation to do this! Cheers to that
It’s easier than you think!
Hi my name is Lehan i live in Namibia I'm working at a Toyota dealership. Big shout out to to you for this video, worked on a Toyota 86 same flat 4 Boxer engine as the Subaru, had to change spark plugs. This video held a lot. 😎
Yup, this is the best way i've seen to change the plugs. No fancy tools, no extraneous work. Simple. How often do you change your plugs? Once a race-season?
Nooo I shoot for around 50k. Did the first set around 60k with no issues. At 90k now so I threw them back in.
I've been boosted for 3 years had the car since 2013. Lol since Im running a little rich on the top end I'm about to finally change it for the first time this weekend 😂
if you feel like you might drop something..put like a a long rag tucked right beneath the coil packs, wedged between the engine and the frame. And also to make things even easier, get a long handle 3/8 / 1/4 wrench for better torque.
👏👏👏
Hands down, BEST Tip on spark plug replacement
Tried this and first thing I did was drop the first bolt I took off the injector cover 😅. Tried to do it your way, but couldn't for the life of me get the coil packs unplugged from the connectors. Maybe the connection is different for the 17+, but the stupid wire clip wouldn't come off. Ended up spending about 20+ minutes finagling it before I finally called it. Jacked up the car, put it on ramps, took off the shield, nuts off the engine mounts, and hacked the engine one side at a time. Was able to throw the 14mm deep socket and extension in connected and had a lot of room to work with in comparison to with it all together. Total time was 1hr 38 min, so I think if I start off with the jacking method next time it will go a lot faster.
Kind of bummed I wasn't able to do it your way, but in the end it got done. Your video was a great help for visual aid though! Thanks!
Thanks mate, took my dad and I 3 hours to do but we did it. Thank you for the visual demonstration as well, that helped A LOT
Love comments like this! Happy I could help!
Thanks for this, as most have commented on here the hardest bit was getting the loom plug off the coil pack - 10 year/50k miles they really didn't want to be separated. After an hour messing about I just cut the loom anchor which holds the coil pack loom to the block, once removed there was load of slack in the cable allowing coil packs to be simply moved out of the way without the need to unplug them. Once the coil packs are out of the way changing the plugs using your method takes minutes.
This ^^^
Over 50 or 60k ive changed a few and the ignition coils get pretty seized on there and you really gotta be delicate seperating them. Had to pop over to a toyota to grt some replacements, bro didnt change his plus passed 60k and drove his FRS like he stole it 😂
Just thank you for this video mate. Clear, simple and encouraging to do it by ourselves!
Saw many other vids, but this is the best so far.
Everything well explained, even tools needed, etc. And the demo over the trunk was 10/10.
Big hug from spain!
Thanks so much! Glad I could help!
Tip: you don't have to click the extension or the rachet in all the way. Makes it easier to remove everything once loose.
Also, I found that while hand tightening or loosening, it was easier to substitute the extension with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter. Gave more room for the fingers to twist and the large 1/2" opening was big enough to stick a finger in haha.
Yeah I believe somewhere in there I mention not to click the ratchet onto the extension because it’s tough to get off, especially if you have a push button detent like I do
@@CountersteerGarage you do towards the end
@@CountersteerGarageis it really that hard to get the ratchet off the extension?? Of course I won’t try my luck haha but I’m asking bc if I accidentally click the extension (by way of habit) will I be screwed?? 😅
@Luther.Williams it’s not IMPOSSIBLE to separate them but it’s suuuuuuper annoying lol avoid at all costs
Just did mine yesterday following your instructions. My 14mm was too shallow where the spark plug was almost sticking out the end & I couldn't get the 3" extension to lock in. Ended up using a 15mm. Took a bit longer because of the backlash & my ogre hands barely fitting down there, but it worked. Don't do it on a warm motor, shits hot & your hands will burn lol. Great instructions though. If I can do it so can anyone else thinking about it.
Yeah the deep 14mm is key! You gotta clear the upper part of the spark plug
About to change mine again so had to review this, much better at showing how than most other so-called how-to videos. A personal twist I put on it is to pull out the socket once the plug is loosened (rather than threading it all the way out), stick a piece of fuel line hose about 3" long on the end of the plug, and use that to finish threading it out and remove the plug. Reverse the process when putting in the new plug -- stick the hose on, use the hose to get the plug in place and thread it in finger tight, then pull off the hose and stick in the socket to finish the job.
Ah that’s a good trick! Still definitely want a magnet on hand though - that skid plate catches everything you drop 🙃
Don't I know it, of course I dropped a socket and it got by the rag I'd stuffed down there. Used the magnet a good bit when other bits slipped, for some reason it was easier last time I went through this! Bolt holding the rear coil pack (driver's side) nearly rounded but I got it out, fortunately I found I had a suitable replacement on hand.
1. Pull out engine
2. Remove old spark plugs
3. Install the new spark plugs
4. Put back the engine
Easy peasy lemon squeezy 🤣
If I ever go to the point of pulling this FA20 I am NOT putting an FA20 back in
@@CountersteerGarage I think they're a good engine if people don't try to over power them.
Hello from a fellow 10-series bro (#211). Thanks for the tips. Will give this a go when the spring weather finally arrives
Hey friend! 1867 here
1850 here!
Now it’s a party! 10 Series Owners UNITE!!
I ground out the locking ball from my 3" extension -- makes it far easier to take back out again because everything separates with no worries. If you use the cutting disk on a Dremel too, you can CAREFULLY flatten the ball, then use a tiny screwdriver to rotate it a bit, then do that again, and then the ball should pop right out of the extension leaving you with something that doesn't lock. Much easier to manipulate in the car.
Boy do I wish I had read this comment before locking my extension onto the socket
@@renshaw765 Yeah. I did it with the first one. Could feel the strength slowly leaving my fingers as I tried again and again to detach it. I finally managed it using a pair of pliers to hold the extensions, then a small wrench to push off the socket from the back. Then I took the extension straight over to the bench and mutilated it with the Dremel tool before I went any further!!
@@opwernby Nice! My method was using a small screw driver that just happened to be the perfect length to wedge between the socket and frame rail. One hand kept it in place while the other hand pulled on the extension. Of course once it broke loose the screwdriver and extension fell into the engine and had to fish out with the magnet. A little salt to the wound.
@@renshaw765 LOL! Yeah, really - just to annoy you!
Pro tip- stuff a bunch of rags between the chassis rail and the engine. Just underneath the spark plug holes.
That way, when you inevitably drop stuff, it doesn't fall into the abyss.
Very helpful, and the extra tips from the viewers help too, I will just air blow the spark plugs before taking them out, thanks for a great and helpful video.
We’ve got an awesome community here 🤜🏼🤛🏼
OMg thank you. I was going to do this and have been feeling discouraged. Going to give this a shot when I get back home
Reactions like this are why I filmed this video 🧡
I did two so far and it took me an hour. Arm is ripped up but it’s doable 😂. Second time around I’m sure I could go faster
Yeah those fuel line brackets are sharp. I forgot to mention that in the video
@@CountersteerGarage And I finished it all. 2 Hours. The tacos were much better I must admit. Thanks so much!
@@kyle88l 🌮🌮🌮🌮🌮🌮
Now you've done the spark plugs. Can you show us doing the fuel filter? Usually the plugs and filter all scheduled for service at same time
thank you and the algorithm for bringing me here, will keep in mind when time comes! I'm maybe not as dexterous so it took me about an hour to do just one ignition coil on the passenger side last year, hopefully goes better for the inevitable round 2
Thanks for being here! Hit that subscribe! Lots coming in ‘22
Man I watched this so I can do my spark plugs on my frs. I pressed the sub button faster then ever man😂. Love the content
Appreciate you 🫶🏼 lots of cool stuff happening here
Thank you sir ! 😎Your DIY video will save me a lot of hard earned money. The best video ever for FR-S/BRZ/86.
I'm really loving your channel, brother. Best advice was the "eat the frog" method. Took me close to an hour to do the drivers side alone but like 15 min for the passengers' side. Lol. Can't wait to see what you do next, taco.
Every time you do it, it goes faster. I can do it in about 35 mins now
In case I have a doppelganger out there: I followed the same procedure on a '15 H4 Legacy. Pretty much identical, but you want to fully remove the metal battery tray shelf before doing the driver side. Removing the air intake for passenger is super easy, so just do it. Like most everyone else, it took me a few hours to do, but wasn't that bad honestly.
Good info to know! If you're in any Legacy facebook groups, feel free to share the video to help others!
Great video! I would recommend anti-seize on all aluminum block engines. I lost the threads on a Miata head once by not doing this. Not fun.
I recommend to put a piece of cloth (old shirt or something in the gap betwenn the engine and the chasis, under the working area of the spark plugs. it make the recovery process with the magnet easier, and remember to retrieve it after the job is done!!!! it may cause a fire if you forget to do it.
i wanna try to do it myself, but im honestly worried about messing it up, but this does make it seem not as bad
Lots of people are unnecessarily afraid of this job. It’s pretty simple if you do it this way!
Just do it broski. Start early and give yourself a few hours.
What he said ☝🏼if you get hung up, don’t hesitate to DM me on IG, I’ll try to help you out
@@CountersteerGarage yeah i’ll do that, i’m at 70k miles rn, i think ima wait a tiny bit longer just bc it’s winter and it’s crazy cold out lol
The alternative is $900 for a dealer to do it.....just take your time be patient and save your self a butt load of money!!
We have a GT86 and this was very helpful and very clever, bravo! and thanks!
Need this for future reference
Thank you brother, will be attempting this in a couple of days, wish me luck!
I’ve got to do some tomorrow so I’ll defo be using this method, thanks
Thanks man. I´ve to get this done around next month and heard it´s kind of a pain but looks easy this way.
If you hit a snag feel free to hit me up on IG
thanks! @@CountersteerGarage
Great video! Thank you! I'm about to change the plugs on mine
Doing this job now, thanks for the great video, not feeling good positive contact of the coil pack connecting to the spark plug head so I guess I will just have to go on faith that once then are bolted down they will make good contact, I tested the feel with a spare plug and it is suprisingly difficult to seat the coils onto the plug
Yeah the tactile *click* is super faint. Chuck it in the hole and bolt it down and you’ll be cherry
Thanks
I’ve changed clutch master and slave cylinders on my Impreza. I have changes the struts and shocks on my 128i. For some reason I am really hesitant to attempt this lol.
You fuckin’ got this! 🤜🏼🤛🏼
You my friend are the real MVP 😎 Plugs changed thanks to you and the great video 💪🏻 Keep up the great content, love it ❤️
Favorite comment 🧡
Saved me some good money watching your video.
That’s what it’s all about 🫶🏼
So i am doing mine rn, i am following some advice from a guy at OTL performance. Im using a 9/16th spark plug socket with the rubbber removed, and instead of an extension, i am using a 5/8th socket in its place. Thats way you dont have to worry about popping out the extension
Ah I like that. Same concept but with a few tweaks
I have a magnetic spark plug socket. Makes things a lot easier. Take socket and plug in one move with my magnet stick
The reason for doing it one piece at a time is to clear the frame rail. Does your mag socket with a plug in it clear? Mine didn’t.
@@CountersteerGarage yeah my socket is same size as a normal deep 14mm..I bought a set of magnetic ones from SP tools. Have been so useful at work
When I do them at work I'll normally Jack the engine as we're got all the covers off underneath anyways for other stuff (atf replacement on autos) makes it a bit quicker.
Give me 86 plugs anyday over a V6 Aurion/Camry or SUV
@@AJS86 or Sienna 🙃
Getting ready to do this jot and this will help a lot. Question: Would an actual spark plug socket with rubber or magnet to hold the plug in the socket be better?
No! It’ll get stuck in the engine DEFINITELY don’t do that. We use a standard deep 14mm because it allows us to remove each piece one at a time, which is crucial.
Great video!! I was wondering if there was a method that didnt require pulling the engine.
That’s great! I keep telling people the same thing, yes it’s a tight spot but it’s doable 🤙
I’ve proven it’s doable!
Saturn had this cool trick where you could remove wheel and the inner fender to access the business side of the engine, I dunno why Subaru couldn’t have like two removable port holes or something.
Sub’d and about to go to my work/dealership and do this right now, got the good NGK Racing plugs too, can’t wait to get it done and start it up!
Go for it!
Loosen the engine mount nut from below and lift the engine slightly using a jack to avoid damaging the oil pan.
I made a whole video on why this is a dumb idea. You should check it out.
Perfect guide thanks man!
Hey thanks again! I used your video for reference, i appreciate the video.
Happy to help!
Great job ! perfectly realised video, congratulations and thank you for the precious help !
My pleasure!
Before watched this tutorial, checked the Toyota service manual.... imagine the dealer doing that in such complicated way..... definitely a waste of money if they pull the engine remove everything underneath 😂. Old Subaru ej20 engine service manual doesn't say have to jack the engine.... interesting... right? It should be simple like this man's tutorial 😂
you made this look easy my dude. i can barley fit both my hands in there already been a hour and half on one plug
Damnnnn you got catcher mitts for hands? 😂
This shit is hard, I’m halfway through this, and it’s taken me like 2 hours. 😂 Thanks for this!
What part is hanging you up?
@@CountersteerGarage I finished it this morning thanks! It was just so tight and hard to get to the bolts, but I persevered!
Well done!
So I'm using a deep socket to change mine, but it seems as when I throw in the 14mm I'm having a problem with the extension locking on... And Im wondering if you're using a longer deep socket...
I’m just using a standard deep 14mm and a 3” extension. The extension should be almost flush with the valve cover when it’s all seated
@@CountersteerGarage thanks, I'll take another crack at it. This is definitely NOT a fun thing to do for this car. A little TLC for the hands is highly recommended after.
Awesome looking 3rd Gen dude!
Thanks! She’s featured in a few videos on here!
The driver side is pretty difficult. I've got scratches all over my arms and hands from the fuel line clips and other various things. I tried covering it all with rags but visibility already sucks. A lot of it can only be done a very specific way, and when you do figure it out, it's still hard as hell to accomplish.
Yeah the drivers side definitely sucks
Very good demonstration, thank you.
Took ~8 hrs. The config is not fully stock so there were some twisting games around hoses and pipes instead of just removing parts. And at least a couple hrs I was fighting against tools - i.e. the socket had a rubber inside which hooked the spark plug so tight so I was unable to pull it off inside the hole. Had to remove this rubber and then it went faster.
Also you can not unplug the coils - it's just a bit more tricky (and i didn't find a quick way to do that as well, lol)
As soon as my fingers will heal up my gf gonna be happy, lol
8 hours???? Bro howwww
@@CountersteerGarage well, I also had not 2 straight segments but a socket, 2cm connector and a rotatable connector (huge pain in the ss). All this stuff is a bit harder to connect. Annd the config isn't full stock, I have an oil cooler and some more hoses and wires around so at least moving the Injection cover wasn't that easy. But for the next time, as soon as I know how it works, it might take 'bout 2 hours for me, I believe. Not soon, hopefully))
Did mine this weekend. Took me 6 hours XD
OOF whyyyyyy?
We do Some cool shyt here! Well I'm subscribed for the cool shyt. Appreciate the video
you sir got a like and sub for this video. well done
Thank you! I have another video about the wrong way to do it, if you want a little comic relief 😂
What a beast
Needed this for the upcoming weekend thx!!
Happy to help!
When putting in the new spark plugs, do you not have to use a torque wrench?? If I just do it by hand can that cause issues?
Generally I’d say yes use a torque wrench but on these there’s not enough space. You’ll feel the crush washer bottom out and stop crushing, it’ll feel similar to the oil drain washer. If you’re not 100% confident, I’d get a buddy to help
I’m guessing if shops will drop the engine a lil to get sparks it’ll be around $900 so worth a try
Shops are doing it this way but still charging as if they’re lifting the engine
What if you use a magnetic socket for spark plug ? Would that make it easier or more difficult since u have to pull out the socket and then use the magnet to pull the spark plug
Nah you won’t be able to pull them both out together. That’s why you wanna use a standard deep 14mm not a spark plug socket.
2:34 lmao you’re a riot I love it
Was totally NOT staged but it was perfect timing for a perfect lesson 🤣
I did it the jack up the car and then the engine way. took me prob 15 more mins then this. ill try it this way next time.
A plus video and great music 😂🔥
You helped me a lot dude! Thank you👌👍
Glad to hear that!
FYI you can switch the spark plugs and not have to unplug the coils. Saved some time for me
How
You can but it’s more trouble than it’s worth. Just yank ‘em.
you save my life, thank you
Hahaha I’m not sure I saved your LIFE but I saved ya $1,000 🤜🏼🤛🏼
Thanks man this helps a ton!
This all looks great, but the problem with almost all of these FRS/BRZ/86 spark plug videos is that I never see a single torque wrench. So, I have an idea:
Go to harbor freight and get the 20-200 inch pound torque wrench 1/4” drive (20 ish bucks). Find a buddy to grind off the ball on the torque wrench, and please, for the love of god, torque them down properly to 13 ft/lb (aka 156 in/lb). That way 1) the torque wrench won’t get stuck to the socket and 2) torqued to spec.
I’m all for doing shit yourself, but you gotta do it right. Don’t forget the anti-seize and boot grease
My left hand is highly calibrated, it’s all good
As long as you don’t hurt the car bro. Lol
On passenger side you pull coils toward front or back of vehicle
The passenger side is easy, front or back works
Awesome video! Yo does that intake make proven gains?
It’s the Grimmspeed and as far as I know it’s one of the only truly functional air intakes on the market
@@CountersteerGarage Dyno results?
Yeah Grimmspeed and other have dyno’d it with good results
Honestly, when I swap those plugs gapped at .023, I’m tall if I don’t raise the car my back ends up hurting. Trust I’ve done it without jacking it. My manz must be short enough not to worry about stuff like that.
lol I’m 5’6”
Thank you for this tip!
Awesome video, great job
To remove rear spark plugs is it towards the ground lose towards the sky tight?
Righty tighty, lefty loosey. Clockwise tightens, anti-clockwise loosens.
Gonna be doing this soon. Wish me luck lol
You got this! Subscribe so you can pull the video back up when you do it!
Thank you!!!
Hmmm you will install a turbo?? Or any future swaps??
No forced induction planned for this thing. It’s not allowed in the class that I race in. Eventually if/when the FA20 pops, I’ll be doing a K24 swap
@@CountersteerGarage okay cool
I want to see you do a WRX STI
My buddy is one of the most respected Subaru technicians/tuners in the country and he does them a similar way. I’m sure I could tag along for his next one
Thank you sir!🫡
Awesome DIY.
Thank you Sir!!
Alright so true story
I couldn’t do it this way.
The wiring to the coil packs is zipped to the engine.
Should I cut it ?
Zipped to the engine? It is a little tight so you’ll have to unplug them before you remove them. You won’t be able to remove them while still plugged in. Not enough slack.
Can I get a tool list used here so I know what to buy for the installation?
I detail it in the video but it’s super easy; 3/8”: deep 14mm (NOT a spark plug socket, deep 12mm, 3” extension, 10” extension
1/4”: shallow 10mm
magnet tool*** SUPER IMPORTANT
@@CountersteerGarage would I need to disconnect the battery for electrical reasons and if not, when do you usually disconnect the battery when working on the car?
GENERALLY speaking you should always disconnect the battery when performing any work under the hood, but most people don’t lol
Perfect guide
I wish I could do this with the mustang but have to remove upper intake.
There’s always a trick. Search around on this beautiful website I’m sure someone has found a sneaky trick
@@CountersteerGarage you can’t because the upper intake is on top of the spark plugs.
I want to send you as case of beer for saving me such a fucking headache and a bunch of money.
Hahaha happy to help! The best way to thank me would be to keep the case of beer for yourself and just watch some more videos!
Is it the same deal to change the valve cover gasket?
I think that would be a lot more work and honestly not sure if the cover would clear the valvetrain on removal with the space allowed. Personally I don’t think I’d try it with the engine in the car.
@@CountersteerGaragethanks and keep us updated!
Hi, no spark plug grease? And do you do this on a warm engine, or cold?
With a 60k mile replacement interval you really shouldn’t need to grease the threads but it couldn’t hurt to do.
A warm engine sounds like it would hurt. Do this one first thing in the AM.
@@CountersteerGarage good to know thank you! And what about the coil packs?
@@mresab1997 replace them if they fail but I wouldn't consider them a maintenance item
I did one and it started hailing golf ball sized tumours man I’ve never put anything back together so fast☠️
Does anyone know how to unclip the wire from the ignition coil? I can’t seem to unplug it.
The tab is on the frame side of the connector, the outer side. Sometimes you have to push the connector in more while pressing the tab. There’s no real trick to it, it’s a standard OEM electrical connector. Just make sure you DO NOT pull on the wires as tempting as it may be!
About to change my spark plugs on turbo frs, having a misfire in all my cylinders right now:(. Does anybody know how tight you need to make the spark plugs? Hand tight i would guess?
It’s hard to describe but it should feel similar to your drain plug. It has a crush washer just like your oil drain and you’ll feel it crush and bottom out. DO NOT gorilla these, plugs are hollow and break off easily