Great video guys. I worked for LAPD for 21 years and i torqued all suspension bolts, nuts, spark plugs and of course all brake caliper bolts and even bleeder screws. You'd be surprised how many people didn't even torque the lug nuts or the intake manifold bolts. I have all the torque wrenches, quarter drive, 3/8 drive and half inch. Plus i marked every bolts to make sure that i torqued them. Thanks for reminding all technicians to be professional at their job.
I have been changing sparkplugs for over 40 years and have never used anti-seize on the threads. I was told years ago that the addition of anti-seize to the threads will mess with the torque specs if you use a torque wrench to torque them down. I have read that some manufacturers do not recommend using it, but I can't remember which ones off the top of my head. I have always used dielectric grease in the boots though. Great video as usual.
@@abovetherimrob891 I have owned a car with aluminum heads since 2006 and have never used anti-seize on the plugs and never had issues removing them when replacing plugs.
I've been a shade tree for 60 years or so. Before I do anything, I always blow compressed air into the depression where the plug resides. Then I loosen the plugs and blow them again. If, like most, the car has a COP, I blow off all around the COP, then remove it. Only takes a minute or so, and keeps sand, small pebbles and the like out of the combustion chamber. Please take this as I wrote it...a hint, not a knock on you. You have forgotten more than I ever knew. Great videos and kindness to spare.
+1. Most important in plugs that aren't horizontal and/or in a depressed recess that traps road dirt. Blow first for the loose stuff then again after just breaking plug free for rust and other debris that came loose when plug turned. I blow thru a piece of fuel line... Rather than firing up a compressor. If you don't have a compressor, that's plenty on all but the deepest plug pockets. No good comes from sand or other debris in your cylinder! (Second blow less critical for coil over plug setups)
A few additional things to consider , #1 Make sure the springs are still inside the boots when your putting the coils back on , sometimes they fall out without you even realizing it. #2 Look inside and clean out the wells before removing the plugs. Many times the wells are filled with oil / debris. #3 inspect the boots for any signs of arcing. Even a pinhole is going to be a problem.
Why not replace the rubber boots so you don't have an issue before the spark plugs require changing again. With some V6s the intake manifold has to be removed to change the spark plugs. It would suck to have to do that work again.
Great video. Thanks. I’ve seen the debate over use of anti-seize. I’m a DIY person who uses it with no issues. I’m sure they’ll be comments about what can go wrong but those people never seem to show any videos about the “wrongs” happening but just prefer to comment and troll on other people’s videos.
Great advice! In addition to your process, I will take a shop vac or compressed air and clean out any debris in the plug recess prior to removing the spark plug. Yes, it's overkill, but you may be surprised what can get in that recess.
The electrical connectors unlock more easily if you push the connector in further to relieve pressure on the lock tab before attempting to release it. I recommend blowing the area around the plug out with compressed air after loosening the plug a couple of turns to prevent any debris from falling into the cylinder. I used to use anti-seize on aluminum heads when they first became more common ~40 years ago and it was common for plugs to seize in the heads. Probably different aluminum alloys and/or coatings on plugs seem to have solved the seizing problem a long time ago. I can't remember the last time I wasn't able to remove a plug without some sort of damage.
With the air filter open like that, anything falling off the spark plugs or working area will sit on top of the air filter on the 'filtered side'. You then put the cover back on and it' straight into the engine. I'd have covered that. Really like your videos and learn a lot. Glad I found your channel, thanks.
This would be a great video in an apprentice guide play list for young people just getting started. It's been my experience that a lot of older techs will tell an up and comer to do somethingbut they skimp out on the why it it needs to be done a certain way. Great videos
If you want an active comment section, just make a spark plug video and take a side on the antiseize vs. no antiseize question. Guaranteed flack in coming. It doesn't matter what side you take. Just take one.
I've been in the grind professionally about 40 years. Love your videos. The most impressive thing about this video is the fender covers. ...and that dog. :)
I always spray brake clean followed by air after removing boots. Then remove the spark plugs. Thanks for the videos as I do not work on vehicles for a living. I just thirst for knowledge. Love the diag videos as well. ❤
Appreciate the content. Re: anti-seize, modern NGK and others are coming coated out of the box and warn that any form of anti-seize will change torque values. Not always the case but something to watch for.
Exactly the video I needed to tackle a DIY spark plug replacement job on an LS4 engine. Very timely and well done! Thank you for your time and professionalism!
1:15. Guy just wants to replace them and get paid….. 1:57 Guy jams whatever is available in 12:46 the can't be good.... 15:10 NGK SAYS NO ANTI SIEZE FOR THEIR PLUGS DIRECTLY ON THEIR WEBSITE 5 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT SPARK PLUGS 1. Anti-seize NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize. Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.
@@483SGT they said they use ngk and they said always use anti seize and surely all premium plugs work the same way. this is old school tech stuff that never kept up with the times. Just like he taps the plug to gap it
The brand doesn't matter. What's important is whether they are plated. Some brands are nickel plated. It they are plated, you don't use any anti-seize. If they are bare steel or black oxide, then you use anti-seize.@@483SGT
Might be an edge case, but I drive a Honda Fit that uses NGK plugs and they recommend using anti seize on the threads in their service manual. The manual did update to call for 20ftlb instead of 13ftlb on the plugs though so I would wonder if calling for anti seize was the reason for them to increase the torque spec.
Perhaps it would be a good idea to wipe the porcelain portion of the spark plug with isopropyl to clean off the oils from your fingertips. Some manufacturers of spark ignited engines do recommend doing it. Great Video. 👍
@fascistpedant758 How can you possibly know that you or others haven't touched the plugs along the way? The factory doesn't give the option of " if you or others haven't touched the porcelain, then you can skip ....". You need to wipe it down if you're going "to replace plugs the professional way." It is professional to wipe the plug as any beads of finger oil can cause flash over. I can send you pictures of what we have experienced in the lab.
Thank you...for not cutting out all the difficult parts. The communication, the nuances, the problems soliving between each other...all necessary to convery circumstances to us that we may or may not encountery. Too many videos make it look easy. I've broken too many plastic parts and ABS sensors watching "easy" videos.
All I have to say down here is that yeah, plugs seem like one of the easiest jobs, and in many cases they are, but they're spooky, and mission-critical. I know a lot of the trucks have absolute nightmare plugs, many of the cars do, and even on "easy" inline 4 cylinders it's always a relief when they come out clean and don't bring the threads with them, and another relief when they snug down firm and don't keep spinning with the wrench.
@Unit_450 One leaking fuel injector can have you chasing your tail trying to figure out the fuel trims. But an inspection of the spark plugs will give you an immediate clue. Also, spark plug condition will tell you about your valve guides, piston rings and spark timing.
I'm really glad you talked about some (Ford) spark plugs that should be remove on a hot engine. Of course on a Ford truck, it will be the one in the back. That is the hardest to get to, that will break.
I use a spare tire to stand on all the time, so I really liked seeing you do that the same. Particularly in your spotless, extremely well equipped shop that I've admired through so many videos. For the record, I'm 5'8" and work on a lot of 4X4 pickups.
Nice video. I was taught 55 years ago to break all the plugs loose, replace plug wires, start the engine, and rev it a couple of times. This breaks the carbon built up at the end of the plug and combustion chamber. If you don't, there is a chance a piece of carbon that breaks loose can strike the spark plug electrode on start up. The carbon could close the gap, messing with proper spark. Before fully removing the plugs, use air pressure or vacuum to clean the area around the outside of the plug. Hope this helps.
Awesome video you guys, I really enjoy watching your stuff, I look forward to seeing more scope videos. We do the same procedure at our shop with the exception of we replace the coil boots at the same time as the tune-up/spark plug replacement, pretty frequently we see corrosion build up at the coil contact points under the boots
You guys give such great instructions!! VERY helpful to us home mechanics trying to help friends as well as our own family save a bit of money at the shop. Please do a 5th gen Explorer (like 2013) with all wheel drive. When I had the dealer change my plugs they said "Well it's a transverse mounted engine so we have to take a LOT of stuff apart in order to reach the back 3 cylinders" and they charged me A LOT of money to do that. I paid up cuz I didn't have the tools nor the time to do it. BUT that's since changed and I would LOVE to do this myself some day. I would also love to see how y'all do it. Thanks for all you do to empower us DIYers!! Really appreciate your channel.
Hey sherwood. What fender covers are those. I would really love a pair at my job. All u do is slap it on and its on. The magnetic are strong. Please lmk. Maybe a link to them that would be great! Love the videos keep em coming. Learning so much from u guys
I've done most of my own work on my 96 Chevy Lumina minivan (313K miles). There are some things I always torqued, but a lot of smaller things I never did. I did torque sparkplugs and things with bigger bolts like head gasket and alternator and water pump mount bolts. I learned the hard way that just because there's a specific torque for something doesn't mean it has to be torqued to that exact value and it will still work ok. When I did a head gasket change last summer I wanted to get those head bolts as close as I could to the torque in the GM shop manual but my old Craftsmen torque wrench had never been calibrated. I found the digital torque angle meter the shop manual mentioned on ebay and used it to calibrate my wrench. Then I was trying to exact torque everything, which was ok on the bigger bolts but I had some smaller bolts for the throttle cable and coolant hose brackets strip out in the aluminum of the throttle body, which I then had to fix with an inserts. I had hand tightened those and other smaller bolts for years and never had them loosen, so I'm back to hand tightening the smaller stuff.
I've heard that new plugs don't require antisieze I'm old school like you Sherwood I always like to use it. Thank you for your verifying this. Great video's on showing quality work 👍👍,,,Don
Let me tell you sir, the best brand spark plug i have used is the brand Beru. This brand is known to have a very reliable spark for a long time! Second brand for me is the Ngk. Outside of these 2 brands, I've noticed power loss to my experiences. but I have also noticed that some cars only run well on the Oem spark plugs, and other than that sluggish.
I always use spark plugs from the dealer original only. Some want a different better long lasting brand but there is a downside to using these other brands that last longer. The longer your spark plugs stay in your engine the more likely they are to seize with the heat and corrosion over time.
Do manufacturers make the gap small so that as the plug ages the gap increases into the oem spec? I replaced plugs on a VW last year, and the OEM recommended new plugs had gaps that were all 0.2 mm too small out the box. I double checked it with two plug checkers, being sure not to damage the platinum coating. I used the exact brand specified by the dealer repair manual. After a little head scratching I decided to grab the neutral pole in a vice (on the sides so the platinum coating was not affected) and gently increase the gap, but I wondered if I might have been better to simply install them with a small gap....
Man, i love you guys. I've been seeing and watching your videos on fb, fb reels, and now YT for probably over a year now, and i love how honest and in-depth you are with your work. Im really glad i watched this particular video bc i have a 2016 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 hemi and i have never changed or replaced a single spark plug on the truck since i got it in 2018. It has 158k miles, and it's never had a misfire code appear in the system. I was really surprised to see yall doing this on a truck with 30k miles. I have one question about using the copper anti seize. What's the issue with the aluminum anti seize? I've always used the aluminum or grey antiseize for the plug threads. I didn't know there was an issue with using the aluminum kind.
On the Ford triton 3 valve engines,I spray a little WD-40 in the cylinder and I know when I worked at Ford dealers they told You to break the plugs loose by hand to prevent from breaking them off.I used to brake them left and right even after running cleaner through the intake first.Then I learned to take a 3/8 air impact gun as close to the plug as possible and it takes them out problem free.Ive literally only Had one plug break since doing this for about the last 10 years.Ford recommended against it but I’m telling you it works like a charm.Of course you have to hand tighten them so as not to destroy the threads…
My 25 yr. old son and I changed SP's for a second time on a '04 Acura MDX with 213,560 miles. We found oil on the coil packs when we pulled them. Then it turned into new valve cover gaskets with SP well gaskets! Always inspect what you extract!
Hi Folks, any chance you have a part no for your gap gauge? Really like the looks of it compared to the other styles but struggling to find the same style over here in the UK. Keep up the good work! I’ve been sending most of your content out to my technicians because it’s so clear, educational and just the right way to do things.
I found that style on Amazon. I ended up getting the round version, but they were available in higher quality than the generic ones under the brand name Lisle and some others that I don't recall now. The difference in price was only a couple bucks.
Thanks again for another great video, I learn from them all. I would like to add something to this video. In all cases before removing any spark plug blow into the cavity with an air nozzle to remove any oil or road debris that may be present. I have seen spark plug boots submerged in oil from a leaky valve cover gasket. This means more work is needed before finishing the job.
i gotta admit im surprised by this video from you guys. longtime subscriber to your channel and a ASE Master with L1, L3 and L4 here myself. 1st never use a gap gauge on most modern spark plugs. Feeler gauges or those set wire gauge. 2nd a big no no is to add anti seize to the threads. Most every spark plug manufacturer will tell you that. a neat trick to start the spark plus is to use a piece of rubber fuel line to start them. I have the plug starters made by a few people but also have rubber fuel line in different lengths 6in, 12in and 18in in my plug tool drawer
The rubber hose trick is a good one for sure! I'll do some research on the anti-seize. I know the use off aluminum anti-seize is a big no but I haven't seen anything on the copper. I'll definitely post an update.
Thanks for the tip about the combustion chamber cleaning and hot engine plug removal for stuck plugs. I tried to remove and inspect the plugs on my wife's 2019 Civic with now almost 200k miles on it, and they were (are) stuck so badly I gave up as I don't have the ability to install threaded inserts if I stripped out the aluminum head! I guess this job is going to be for the dealership. :(
Thanks for your video. I've never used ant seize on spark plugs, but I see it because of the complexity of these new cars . Great advice about not using gun on them, coil bolts people have gone crazy using gun on everything on these cars .That makes sense about calibrating your elbows once in a while using torque wrench .
Glad to see you using a dab of antiseize, a touch of silicone, and hand starting as well. On top of that, I always clean and blow out the spark plug well before removing the old plug. Always have the new plug ready BEFORE hand so the time for the exposed hole is minimal. Also, I use a thread ROLLER (TIME-SERT; 👍 this is NOT a thread chaser) and finally install the new plug
I work for a testing laboratory. We have equipment in our lab to test bolt and nut fasteners. Torque is an indirect test for bolt tension. Wet torque (with antisieze or a thread lubricant) should be reduced about 20% to give the same bolt tension as one installed dry. I always use antisieze in my aluminum heads. My cars use iridium spark plugs which stay in the car for years.
Great video. I never use a socket to start the threads. It is too easy to crossthread them. I always use a small piece of rubber tubing on the porcelain end to feed it into the hole and now you will not have enough torque to damage the threads if it isn't perpendicular to the hole because it will spin around the end before getting stuck. I turn the plug left to loosen it until I feel/hear it drop and change direction because I know the threads are lined up. You can't feel that through a socket either. Many cars such as Mercedes and Infiniti require properly torqued plugs because they are indexed, meaning the spark has to be at the correct angle and direction to ensure proper combustion.
"Royalty auto service"! For the descendants of George Washington amusing name. Very interesting and helpful vid, and as a DIY driveway monkey very impressed with the spread of tools and equipment. FYI my son's Jaguar and wife's BMW, the spark plugs were £25 each from the main stealer .(each having the car makers name on) A little after the event, research, revealed both used a specific NGK spark plug, at nearly half the price.
I have been using aluminum Anti seize for spark plugs. I am curious why it is a good practice to use copper. Does using aluminum grease react with the metals? Look forward to your response.
Great video. I believe the general guidance with regard to anti-seize that the torque needs to be reduced by 20% from the spec torque. The reason for this is your introducing a hydraulic compound on the threads and the plug shouldn’t be torque to full value because in fact with the compound you’d be overtorquing them as well. As well, there is some debate about reducing torque when using anti-seize, but the general consensus said it should be reduced. That said I appreciate your video and your expertise and how you do this.
Good video! Also a good practice is to used compressed air to blow out the spark plug hole before plug is completely removed. The boot should have kept debris out but better safe then sorry 😢
I bought a kit from Mac for spark plugs and I love the thing I still use it to the day that rubber boot is still inside of them they grip good. I love them not sure if you’ve tried those.
Using a torque wrench as you say is of course a very good idea. They show torque specs for a reason. A little extra time spent doing the job correctly is usually better than a lot of time repairing know it all mistakes.
The original spark plugs in the truck were NGK IR. They are Iridium spark plugs designed to last 100k miles. That is why they looked in great shape after 30k miles 🙂 . If they were platinum plugs, I would change them at 30k with IR plugs.
I drive Hondas so I don't have experience with other plug brands. But, NGK and DENSO explicitly state don't use anti-seize on their plugs. I have NOT been adding anti-seize to my cars' plugs for 15 years with no issues.
To close the gap alittle , hold plug a few inches above the anvil on your vise . Just kinda bounce it , the higher u bounce the more it moves . Been doing it that way for 35 yrs .
I was advised not to use anti seize on modern spark plugs, it's not necessary because they are plated from the factory and will cause over torquing. I did some research and verified this.
Hello , can you help me and tell me the gap clearance on a stock 2014 BMW 535i N55 engine, I called every BMW dealership in my area and no one knew that answer, they all tell me that they trust the pre gap from the manufacturer and as long as the cardboard tube is on when they open them it’s good to go , but you just said otherwise, so now I’m wondering about the new plugs I put in 😞, NGK IRIDIUM
Another good tip is to add a light film to the outside of the coil pack tube where the rubber is. If you've ever had to do spark plugs on a motorcycle, especially a R1 you'll know how difficult it is to pop those coil packs out.
I use Vacuum Hose or Vacuum Hose and a Screwdriver to pull and start the Plugs. Flexible and Aimable. Not Everyone has Spark Plug Sockets that retain. It's faster and easier. Cool Vid. I'm much in agreement.
I really like how you explain even the simple things! 👌 15:46 Don’t some spark plugs come pre-greased or coated from the factory? Doesn’t putting anti-cease on the plugs change the torque setting? (I’m just curious. Greetings from The Netherlands 🇳🇱)
What is your thinking on not using aluminum anti-seize on spark plugs? What is different from the copper stuff? FYI, I like to think I follow the five or so best mechanics on TH-cam, and most of you agree about using anti-seize on plugs, but at least one of the others uses aluminum. I'd really appreciate your insights (and that of any others who may read this). Thanks!
@TStheDeplorable The opposite. Use aluminum antiseize for aluminum. I would not use copper antiseize with aluminum as I would think they are dissimilar and could react. Locktite makes a non-metallic antiseize paste that Bosch specifies to use on spark plugs used in industrial machine applications.
@@juicebox22a I wondered about the dissimilar metals and the possibility of an electrolytic (?) reaction. Thanks for letting me know about the Locktite paste!
Do not use anti-seize with modern engines or spark plugs. No manufacture uses anti-seize and most modern spark plug manufactures say it will ruin the special coating.
When I replaced spark plugs after removing the spark plug boots I used compressed air to remove any foreign debris before removing spark plugs. I did that after removing the coils aswell. Just in case someone else had been fiddling around trying to figure out what was going on.
Alot of older plugs were only black oxide coated so they would rust in cast iron cylinder heads, anti-seize on the threads is really old school. New plugs are zinc coated to prevent galling in the aluminum heads, don't really need it. Another thing that can make life easier when doing plugs is one of those gap tools that you thread the plug into and it compresses the ground strap with a thumb screw until it meets your feeler gauge, both ways work but I stopped doing the tap and check method after breaking a ground strap from tapping it on my toolbox one time. The champion plugs were wayyyyy out of spec right from the factory, thats crazy. I have never had an NGK plug that out of spec before.
Great video guys. I worked for LAPD for 21 years and i torqued all suspension bolts, nuts, spark plugs and of course all brake caliper bolts and even bleeder screws. You'd be surprised how many people didn't even torque the lug nuts or the intake manifold bolts. I have all the torque wrenches, quarter drive, 3/8 drive and half inch. Plus i marked every bolts to make sure that i torqued them. Thanks for reminding all technicians to be professional at their job.
Can u get me a job there? lol
@@midnightroush97 you can apply lol. I’m retired already👍
Great work! Glad to see and hear mechanical taking specs seriously.
@vickenkaragozian2041 where can one apply? I've been looking online, but no luck
Every time I get brake pads replaced. I have to get new rotors, (because nobody uses a torque wrench on lug nuts).
I have been changing sparkplugs for over 40 years and have never used anti-seize on the threads. I was told years ago that the addition of anti-seize to the threads will mess with the torque specs if you use a torque wrench to torque them down. I have read that some manufacturers do not recommend using it, but I can't remember which ones off the top of my head. I have always used dielectric grease in the boots though. Great video as usual.
I agree, but a drop of light silicone spray lube doesn't hurt. With dry threads, the specified torque doesn't always even crush the seal.
I've heard that same thing when I was at the factories main engine training center.
Cast iron heads and aluminum heads are vastly different. Always use anti-seize on aluminum heads.
@@abovetherimrob891 I have owned a car with aluminum heads since 2006 and have never used anti-seize on the plugs and never had issues removing them when replacing plugs.
Always use antiseaze unless the mfg says not too. It helps heat transfer and will extend the life of the plug aswell as helps ensure proper torque.
I've been a shade tree for 60 years or so. Before I do anything, I always blow compressed air into the depression where the plug resides. Then I loosen the plugs and blow them again. If, like most, the car has a COP, I blow off all around the COP, then remove it. Only takes a minute or so, and keeps sand, small pebbles and the like out of the combustion chamber. Please take this as I wrote it...a hint, not a knock on you. You have forgotten more than I ever knew. Great videos and kindness to spare.
Agreed, good to blow out the debris.
This! My first thought!
+1. Most important in plugs that aren't horizontal and/or in a depressed recess that traps road dirt.
Blow first for the loose stuff then again after just breaking plug free for rust and other debris that came loose when plug turned. I blow thru a piece of fuel line... Rather than firing up a compressor.
If you don't have a compressor, that's plenty on all but the deepest plug pockets. No good comes from sand or other debris in your cylinder!
(Second blow less critical for coil over plug setups)
A few additional things to consider , #1 Make sure the springs are still inside the boots when your putting the coils back on , sometimes they fall out without you even realizing it. #2 Look inside and clean out the wells before removing the plugs. Many times the wells are filled with oil / debris. #3 inspect the boots for any signs of arcing. Even a pinhole is going to be a problem.
Why not replace the rubber boots so you don't have an issue before the spark plugs require changing again. With some V6s the intake manifold has to be removed to change the spark plugs. It would suck to have to do that work again.
I would have never pulled those plugs out without blowing out the well, cracking the plug lose and then blowing the well out a second time.
Great video. Thanks. I’ve seen the debate over use of anti-seize. I’m a DIY person who uses it with no issues. I’m sure they’ll be comments about what can go wrong but those people never seem to show any videos about the “wrongs” happening but just prefer to comment and troll on other people’s videos.
Great advice! In addition to your process, I will take a shop vac or compressed air and clean out any debris in the plug recess prior to removing the spark plug. Yes, it's overkill, but you may be surprised what can get in that recess.
The electrical connectors unlock more easily if you push the connector in further to relieve pressure on the lock tab before attempting to release it.
I recommend blowing the area around the plug out with compressed air after loosening the plug a couple of turns to prevent any debris from falling into the cylinder.
I used to use anti-seize on aluminum heads when they first became more common ~40 years ago and it was common for plugs to seize in the heads. Probably different aluminum alloys and/or coatings on plugs seem to have solved the seizing problem a long time ago. I can't remember the last time I wasn't able to remove a plug without some sort of damage.
With the air filter open like that, anything falling off the spark plugs or working area will sit on top of the air filter on the 'filtered side'. You then put the cover back on and it' straight into the engine. I'd have covered that.
Really like your videos and learn a lot. Glad I found your channel, thanks.
This would be a great video in an apprentice guide play list for young people just getting started. It's been my experience that a lot of older techs will tell an up and comer to do somethingbut they skimp out on the why it it needs to be done a certain way. Great videos
As you can see, the lowly spark can generate alot of conversational opinion. We are all still apprentices after 45 years. Keep producing the videos. 👍
If you want an active comment section, just make a spark plug video and take a side on the antiseize vs. no antiseize question. Guaranteed flack in coming. It doesn't matter what side you take. Just take one.
I've been in the grind professionally about 40 years.
Love your videos.
The most impressive thing about this video is the fender covers.
...and that dog. :)
I always spray brake clean followed by air after removing boots. Then remove the spark plugs. Thanks for the videos as I do not work on vehicles for a living. I just thirst for knowledge. Love the diag videos as well. ❤
Appreciate the content. Re: anti-seize, modern NGK and others are coming coated out of the box and warn that any form of anti-seize will change torque values. Not always the case but something to watch for.
Getting a gap tool after watching this. Great video and yes in the Prius once you get the wiper items out of the way, very easy.
Exactly the video I needed to tackle a DIY spark plug replacement job on an LS4 engine. Very timely and well done! Thank you for your time and professionalism!
1:15. Guy just wants to replace them and get paid…..
1:57 Guy jams whatever is available in
12:46 the can't be good....
15:10 NGK SAYS NO ANTI SIEZE FOR THEIR PLUGS DIRECTLY ON THEIR WEBSITE
5 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT SPARK PLUGS
1. Anti-seize
NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize.
Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. Thread breakage can sometimes involve removing the cylinder head for repair. Metal shell stretch changes the heat rating of the spark plug and can result in serious engine damage caused by pre-ignition. Do not use anti-seize or lubricant on NGK spark plugs. It is completely unnecessary and can be detrimental.
But these aren't ngk
@@483SGT they said they use ngk and they said always use anti seize and surely all premium plugs work the same way. this is old school tech stuff that never kept up with the times.
Just like he taps the plug to gap it
The brand doesn't matter. What's important is whether they are plated. Some brands are nickel plated. It they are plated, you don't use any anti-seize. If they are bare steel or black oxide, then you use anti-seize.@@483SGT
Don’t drink milk because it’ll make you fart
Might be an edge case, but I drive a Honda Fit that uses NGK plugs and they recommend using anti seize on the threads in their service manual. The manual did update to call for 20ftlb instead of 13ftlb on the plugs though so I would wonder if calling for anti seize was the reason for them to increase the torque spec.
Wow! The measuring. Never would have thought that pre gapped plugs could be wrong. Makes me want to check mine!
Perhaps it would be a good idea to wipe the porcelain portion of the spark plug with isopropyl to clean off the oils from your fingertips. Some manufacturers of spark ignited engines do recommend doing it. Great Video. 👍
Great Comment!
I just avoid touching the porcelain.
@fascistpedant758 How can you possibly know that you or others haven't touched the plugs along the way? The factory doesn't give the option of " if you or others haven't touched the porcelain, then you can skip ....". You need to wipe it down if you're going "to replace plugs the professional way." It is professional to wipe the plug as any beads of finger oil can cause flash over. I can send you pictures of what we have experienced in the lab.
Thank you...for not cutting out all the difficult parts. The communication, the nuances, the problems soliving between each other...all necessary to convery circumstances to us that we may or may not encountery. Too many videos make it look easy. I've broken too many plastic parts and ABS sensors watching "easy" videos.
All I have to say down here is that yeah, plugs seem like one of the easiest jobs, and in many cases they are, but they're spooky, and mission-critical. I know a lot of the trucks have absolute nightmare plugs, many of the cars do, and even on "easy" inline 4 cylinders it's always a relief when they come out clean and don't bring the threads with them, and another relief when they snug down firm and don't keep spinning with the wrench.
Never heard a better description of spark plug jobs.
It's called reading your spark plugs to understand how ur engine is running, nice job Sherwood.
@Unit_450Real mechanics can't work on older stuff then. They have to farm the work out to realer real mechanics who really know their stuff.
@Unit_450 One leaking fuel injector can have you chasing your tail trying to figure out the fuel trims. But an inspection of the spark plugs will give you an immediate clue. Also, spark plug condition will tell you about your valve guides, piston rings and spark timing.
@Unit_450 That's nice. No one said anything about a misfire.
@Unit_450 Not true.
I really enjoy your very deliberate method of working.
Excellent.
I'm really glad you talked about some (Ford) spark plugs that should be remove on a hot engine. Of course on a Ford truck, it will be the one in the back. That is the hardest to get to, that will break.
I perform a BG induction service then remove with 3/8 impact gun hot..
I think the reason the rear plugs are difficult to remove is that they're often skipped because of limited access.
Thank you for showing us the gap check out of the box. Never thought about that. Great video 😁👍🏼
I use a spare tire to stand on all the time, so I really liked seeing you do that the same. Particularly in your spotless, extremely well equipped shop that I've admired through so many videos. For the record, I'm 5'8" and work on a lot of 4X4 pickups.
Nice video. I was taught 55 years ago to break all the plugs loose, replace plug wires, start the engine, and rev it a couple of times. This breaks the carbon built up at the end of the plug and combustion chamber. If you don't, there is a chance a piece of carbon that breaks loose can strike the spark plug electrode on start up. The carbon could close the gap, messing with proper spark.
Before fully removing the plugs, use air pressure or vacuum to clean the area around the outside of the plug.
Hope this helps.
Awesome video you guys, I really enjoy watching your stuff, I look forward to seeing more scope videos. We do the same procedure at our shop with the exception of we replace the coil boots at the same time as the tune-up/spark plug replacement, pretty frequently we see corrosion build up at the coil contact points under the boots
You guys give such great instructions!! VERY helpful to us home mechanics trying to help friends as well as our own family save a bit of money at the shop.
Please do a 5th gen Explorer (like 2013) with all wheel drive. When I had the dealer change my plugs they said "Well it's a transverse mounted engine so we have to take a LOT of stuff apart in order to reach the back 3 cylinders" and they charged me A LOT of money to do that. I paid up cuz I didn't have the tools nor the time to do it. BUT that's since changed and I would LOVE to do this myself some day. I would also love to see how y'all do it.
Thanks for all you do to empower us DIYers!! Really appreciate your channel.
So glad I found this channel. Been following your guide to do my brake pads on my Nissan Silvia 😅
A sprits of interior detailing spray on those connector clips helps a lot, lubricates them so they slide apart.
I love your philosophy/work ethics on cars. Great video! 👍
Hey sherwood. What fender covers are those. I would really love a pair at my job. All u do is slap it on and its on. The magnetic are strong. Please lmk. Maybe a link to them that would be great! Love the videos keep em coming. Learning so much from u guys
I've done most of my own work on my 96 Chevy Lumina minivan (313K miles). There are some things I always torqued, but a lot of smaller things I never did. I did torque sparkplugs and things with bigger bolts like head gasket and alternator and water pump mount bolts. I learned the hard way that just because there's a specific torque for something doesn't mean it has to be torqued to that exact value and it will still work ok. When I did a head gasket change last summer I wanted to get those head bolts as close as I could to the torque in the GM shop manual but my old Craftsmen torque wrench had never been calibrated. I found the digital torque angle meter the shop manual mentioned on ebay and used it to calibrate my wrench. Then I was trying to exact torque everything, which was ok on the bigger bolts but I had some smaller bolts for the throttle cable and coolant hose brackets strip out in the aluminum of the throttle body, which I then had to fix with an inserts. I had hand tightened those and other smaller bolts for years and never had them loosen, so I'm back to hand tightening the smaller stuff.
The gapping method you showed worked perfectly for me. Thanks for the video!
I've heard that new plugs don't require antisieze I'm old school like you Sherwood I always like to use it. Thank you for your verifying this. Great video's on showing quality work 👍👍,,,Don
I had to catch my breath for a second when you opened up your toolbox socket drawer! 😮
Let me tell you sir, the best brand spark plug i have used is the brand Beru. This brand is known to have a very reliable spark for a long time!
Second brand for me is the Ngk. Outside of these 2 brands, I've noticed power loss to my experiences.
but I have also noticed that some cars only run well on the Oem spark plugs, and other than that sluggish.
I always use spark plugs from the dealer original only. Some want a different better long lasting brand but there is a downside to using these other brands that last longer. The longer your spark plugs stay in your engine the more likely they are to seize with the heat and corrosion over time.
Do manufacturers make the gap small so that as the plug ages the gap increases into the oem spec? I replaced plugs on a VW last year, and the OEM recommended new plugs had gaps that were all 0.2 mm too small out the box. I double checked it with two plug checkers, being sure not to damage the platinum coating. I used the exact brand specified by the dealer repair manual. After a little head scratching I decided to grab the neutral pole in a vice (on the sides so the platinum coating was not affected) and gently increase the gap, but I wondered if I might have been better to simply install them with a small gap....
Man, i love you guys. I've been seeing and watching your videos on fb, fb reels, and now YT for probably over a year now, and i love how honest and in-depth you are with your work. Im really glad i watched this particular video bc i have a 2016 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 hemi and i have never changed or replaced a single spark plug on the truck since i got it in 2018. It has 158k miles, and it's never had a misfire code appear in the system. I was really surprised to see yall doing this on a truck with 30k miles. I have one question about using the copper anti seize. What's the issue with the aluminum anti seize? I've always used the aluminum or grey antiseize for the plug threads. I didn't know there was an issue with using the aluminum kind.
On the Ford triton 3 valve engines,I spray a little WD-40 in the cylinder and I know when I worked at Ford dealers they told
You to break the plugs loose by hand to prevent from breaking them off.I used to brake them left and right even after running cleaner through the intake first.Then I learned to take a 3/8 air impact gun as close to the plug as possible and it takes them out problem free.Ive literally only
Had one plug break since doing this for about the last 10 years.Ford recommended against it but I’m telling you it works like a charm.Of course you have to hand tighten them so as not to destroy the threads…
My 25 yr. old son and I changed SP's for a second time on a '04 Acura MDX with 213,560 miles. We found oil on the coil packs when we pulled them. Then it turned into new valve cover gaskets with SP well gaskets! Always inspect what you extract!
I'm glad to see that even super professional mechanics struggle with connectors, makes me feel not as dumb.
Love your attention to detail and vast knowledge from experience. Happy to become a subscriber.
Once again, I came, I saw, I learned. Thank you for doing these videos.
Thank you for confirming what people at not so good shops laughed at me for doing.
Good Tips Sherwood. i have always check the gap before installing the plugs.
I feel so stupid for dropping spark plugs down the hole now. Never thought about that. Thank you for these videos.
Hi Folks, any chance you have a part no for your gap gauge? Really like the looks of it compared to the other styles but struggling to find the same style over here in the UK. Keep up the good work! I’ve been sending most of your content out to my technicians because it’s so clear, educational and just the right way to do things.
I found that style on Amazon. I ended up getting the round version, but they were available in higher quality than the generic ones under the brand name Lisle and some others that I don't recall now. The difference in price was only a couple bucks.
Thanks again for another great video, I learn from them all. I would like to add something to this video. In all cases before removing any spark plug blow into the cavity with an air nozzle to remove any oil or road debris that may be present. I have seen spark plug boots submerged in oil from a leaky valve cover gasket. This means more work is needed before finishing the job.
13:47 I remember a gapping tool that squared the ground with the electrode on the plugs that had the wide gaps
Really enjoyed it ! Thanks for producing another training video ! 👊🏼 🔥
Excellent video smart wise and informative. Anti-seize copper got to keep that in mind.
Amazing informative video!!!! Thank you for all the details!!
Great video Sherwood. I like your meticulous work ethics.
i gotta admit im surprised by this video from you guys. longtime subscriber to your channel and a ASE Master with L1, L3 and L4 here myself.
1st never use a gap gauge on most modern spark plugs. Feeler gauges or those set wire gauge. 2nd a big no no is to add anti seize to the threads. Most every spark plug manufacturer will tell you that.
a neat trick to start the spark plus is to use a piece of rubber fuel line to start them. I have the plug starters made by a few people but also have rubber fuel line in different lengths 6in, 12in and 18in in my plug tool drawer
The rubber hose trick is a good one for sure! I'll do some research on the anti-seize. I know the use off aluminum anti-seize is a big no but I haven't seen anything on the copper. I'll definitely post an update.
Excellent video here on the anti seize on plug threads question: th-cam.com/video/fpixgNQHvVM/w-d-xo.htmlsi=79KyUOsOho8Yyx04
Can you elaborate on not using a gap gauge? Will be doing my plugs soon so interested in knowing why.
@@MrNewff cause a gap gauge can damage the electrodes on new style plus with precious metal ends. Uss a wire gauge or feeler gauges
Thanks for the tip about the combustion chamber cleaning and hot engine plug removal for stuck plugs. I tried to remove and inspect the plugs on my wife's 2019 Civic with now almost 200k miles on it, and they were (are) stuck so badly I gave up as I don't have the ability to install threaded inserts if I stripped out the aluminum head! I guess this job is going to be for the dealership. :(
Thanks for your video. I've never used ant seize on spark plugs, but I see it because of the complexity of these new cars . Great advice about not using gun on them, coil bolts people have gone crazy using gun on everything on these cars .That makes sense about calibrating your elbows once in a while using torque wrench .
literally wouldnt change a thing. great vid guys
Great demo! I want to see the rest of the cylinders and all the tools used… so I can do my truck
Great video and always a learning curve
Glad to see you using a dab of antiseize, a touch of silicone, and hand starting as well. On top of that, I always clean and blow out the spark plug well before removing the old plug. Always have the new plug ready BEFORE hand so the time for the exposed hole is minimal. Also, I use a thread ROLLER (TIME-SERT; 👍 this is NOT a thread chaser) and finally install the new plug
I work for a testing laboratory. We have equipment in our lab to test bolt and nut fasteners. Torque is an indirect test for bolt tension.
Wet torque (with antisieze or a thread lubricant) should be reduced about 20% to give the same bolt tension as one installed dry.
I always use antisieze in my aluminum heads. My cars use iridium spark plugs which stay in the car for years.
Great video.
I never use a socket to start the threads. It is too easy to crossthread them. I always use a small piece of rubber tubing on the porcelain end to feed it into the hole and now you will not have enough torque to damage the threads if it isn't perpendicular to the hole because it will spin around the end before getting stuck. I turn the plug left to loosen it until I feel/hear it drop and change direction because I know the threads are lined up. You can't feel that through a socket either.
Many cars such as Mercedes and Infiniti require properly torqued plugs because they are indexed, meaning the spark has to be at the correct angle and direction to ensure proper combustion.
"Royalty auto service"!
For the descendants of George Washington amusing name.
Very interesting and helpful vid, and as a DIY driveway monkey very impressed with the spread of tools and equipment.
FYI my son's Jaguar and wife's BMW, the spark plugs were £25 each from the main stealer .(each having the car makers name on)
A little after the event, research, revealed both used a specific NGK spark plug, at nearly half the price.
I have been using aluminum Anti seize for spark plugs. I am curious why it is a good practice to use copper. Does using aluminum grease react with the metals? Look forward to your response.
The brownish residues on the outside of the ceramic mentioned around 19.45 actually are corona stains.
He’s correct about the residue being carbon pushing past the ceramic to thread seal
Great video. I believe the general guidance with regard to anti-seize that the torque needs to be reduced by 20% from the spec torque. The reason for this is your introducing a hydraulic compound on the threads and the plug shouldn’t be torque to full value because in fact with the compound you’d be overtorquing them as well. As well, there is some debate about reducing torque when using anti-seize, but the general consensus said it should be reduced. That said I appreciate your video and your expertise and how you do this.
Question regarding anti seize: why copper as opposed to aluminum? Especially with the aluminum heads….dissimilar metals isn’t an issue??
Very informative. Thanks again..
Great stuff gentlemen.
Good video! Also a good practice is to used compressed air to blow out the spark plug hole before plug is completely removed. The boot should have kept debris out but better safe then sorry 😢
I bought a kit from Mac for spark plugs and I love the thing I still use it to the day that rubber boot is still inside of them they grip good. I love them not sure if you’ve tried those.
Using a torque wrench as you say is of course a very good idea. They show torque specs for a reason. A little extra time spent doing the job correctly is usually better than a lot of time repairing know it all mistakes.
The original spark plugs in the truck were NGK IR. They are Iridium spark plugs designed to last 100k miles. That is why they looked in great shape after 30k miles 🙂 . If they were platinum plugs, I would change them at 30k with IR plugs.
If that ram is a 13 or newer it’s 100k interval or 10 years. Older ones are 30k Good vid guys keep it up.
I drive Hondas so I don't have experience with other plug brands. But, NGK and DENSO explicitly state don't use anti-seize on their plugs. I have NOT been adding anti-seize to my cars' plugs for 15 years with no issues.
Shouldn't you reduce torque when applying anti-seize to the threads?
To close the gap alittle , hold plug a few inches above the anvil on your vise . Just kinda bounce it , the higher u bounce the more it moves . Been doing it that way for 35 yrs .
Great informational video
Also when I did I used the silver antiseize I didn't know the copper was the proper one could you maybe explain why the copper is better
I was advised not to use anti seize on modern spark plugs, it's not necessary because they are plated from the factory and will cause over torquing. I did some research and verified this.
What's the difference between copper and aluminum anticease?
You guys are amazing!!!
You do a great job nice work.
Hello , can you help me and tell me the gap clearance on a stock 2014 BMW 535i N55 engine, I called every BMW dealership in my area and no one knew that answer, they all tell me that they trust the pre gap from the manufacturer and as long as the cardboard tube is on when they open them it’s good to go , but you just said otherwise, so now I’m wondering about the new plugs I put in 😞, NGK IRIDIUM
Another good tip is to add a light film to the outside of the coil pack tube where the rubber is. If you've ever had to do spark plugs on a motorcycle, especially a R1 you'll know how difficult it is to pop those coil packs out.
I use Vacuum Hose or Vacuum Hose and a Screwdriver to pull and start the Plugs. Flexible and Aimable. Not Everyone has Spark Plug Sockets that retain. It's faster and easier. Cool Vid. I'm much in agreement.
He is right bout torque, some engines (Ford) spark plugs become so lose and cause terrible misfires.
Nice, I feel better after watching, I was starting to think murphys law had me singled out 😂
Is it true MB 157 plugs need to be clocked ?
I really like how you explain even the simple things! 👌
15:46 Don’t some spark plugs come pre-greased or coated from the factory?
Doesn’t putting anti-cease on the plugs change the torque setting?
(I’m just curious. Greetings from The Netherlands 🇳🇱)
What is your thinking on not using aluminum anti-seize on spark plugs? What is different from the copper stuff? FYI, I like to think I follow the five or so best mechanics on TH-cam, and most of you agree about using anti-seize on plugs, but at least one of the others uses aluminum. I'd really appreciate your insights (and that of any others who may read this). Thanks!
Aluminum head = aluminum / nickle antiseize?
@@juicebox22a Are you saying that the anti-seize needs to be of a different metal than the plug and the head?
@TStheDeplorable The opposite. Use aluminum antiseize for aluminum. I would not use copper antiseize with aluminum as I would think they are dissimilar and could react.
Locktite makes a non-metallic antiseize paste that Bosch specifies to use on spark plugs used in industrial machine applications.
@@juicebox22a I wondered about the dissimilar metals and the possibility of an electrolytic (?) reaction. Thanks for letting me know about the Locktite paste!
Do not use anti-seize with modern engines or spark plugs. No manufacture uses anti-seize and most modern spark plug manufactures say it will ruin the special coating.
When I replaced spark plugs after removing the spark plug boots I used compressed air to remove any foreign debris before removing spark plugs. I did that after removing the coils aswell. Just in case someone else had been fiddling around trying to figure out what was going on.
You have a link or a part number for that gapping tool I love it
Does a little anti seize go on wheel nuts?
Some plug manufacturers recommend only a wire gapping tool for precious metal plugs.
Yeah, I had a coil on a f150 valve cover spin the insert, new vaive cover only fix
Why copper and not aluminum antiseize? Ive always used the aluminum since its going into an aluminum head (most of the time).
silicone spray is a good lubricant for stubborn connectors
I like to reverse thread first on install to make sure that I don't cross thread them.
Alot of older plugs were only black oxide coated so they would rust in cast iron cylinder heads, anti-seize on the threads is really old school. New plugs are zinc coated to prevent galling in the aluminum heads, don't really need it. Another thing that can make life easier when doing plugs is one of those gap tools that you thread the plug into and it compresses the ground strap with a thumb screw until it meets your feeler gauge, both ways work but I stopped doing the tap and check method after breaking a ground strap from tapping it on my toolbox one time. The champion plugs were wayyyyy out of spec right from the factory, thats crazy. I have never had an NGK plug that out of spec before.
Black oxide plugs on aluminum heads before Coil on Plug were even worse in the 80s with tapered seats in the salt zones!