*Worked perfectly right out of the box **MyBest.Tools** a nice compact bench bandsaw, that will work with 1/4 to 1/2 inch blades! First use was a joy, better quality than I expected for the price ! ! !*
Thank you so much for your patience and teaching. I am new at woodturning. I have been a woodworker for years. Worked in cabinet shops, carving furniture, cabinets for corporate jets. etc. etc. But this is the most exciting fun stuff. I only bought a mini lathe and want to do bowls. So small ones for now. I am learning so much by your videos. So thank simply.... thanks!
After weeks and weeks of TH-cam exploration I've finally found what I consider to be the most useful video for preparing stock on a bandsaw for the lathe. Thank you so much!
Hi Reed Thanks for the plastic wrap tip. I've got to get the old Bursgreen/Wadkins Bandsaw from my old School where I taught. My 14" is getting tired. Always come to your channel when I need answers. Thanks
Interesting how different countries call instruments by different names, your ‘compass’ to UK/AU is a pair of dividers. Always learning new things. Greetings from Tasmania Australia.👍😁🇦🇺🦘
First time viewer and subscribed. Excellent instruction, very clear and to the point. It appears that their is no need for a circle cutting jig in your shop, man can you cut nice circles . Can you give a newbie a few tips on how to cut on the line so smoothly and so quickly? Ty
Well, first thing is to have a good sharp blade on the bandsaw. I use the Lennox Bimetal Diemaster blades, 1/2 inch by 3 tpi, and they do make a 'thick' one. With a 1/2 inch blade, you can cut a 6 inch circle. The thing about the Bimetal blades is that the teeth are M42 HSS, which a lot of turning tools are now being made out of, as well as it is the same metal they have on the pallet cutting blades. Stays sharper longer and cuts straighter. They can be resharpened easily if you have a good saw shop near by. Other than that, you want the side on the table to be flat so it doesn't rock when you are cutting the circle, which can make the blade bind up in the wood or even some times break. Having a good spot or task light really helps too. the problem I had with the circle cutting jigs, is that even after cutting the circle, you have to drill a hole for a worm screw, or put a face plate on, or like I do, drill a recess. Even if the blank is perfectly round, it still ends up being a little off center.
Hey Robo, "Big-Time" grateful for your sharing and guidance. If I could ask one question though; was curious as to the horse-rating on your "little" band saw? And looking forward to more great videos. Thanks again!
The little PM is 3/4 hp I think. great for up to 6 inches, which is the limit of how high this one will cut. You can cut 12 inches high with 1 hp, but it is a struggle. Of course, good sharp blade is a must.
I think I cover this some where.... Been a while. Personal preference, and a lot depends on where you live, I prefer to keep logs whole and cut off pieces as I need them. I use a heavy duty tarp on the ground, and heavy tarps on top so they are pretty much sealed from wind and sun light. Keeping them under trees is good. I don't seal the ends of my logs. If you cut them into sections, then you need to make them longer than they are wide. I used to do it that way, but found out I lost more wood that way. If you want to seal the ends, there are a couple of log end grain sealers. I only seal spindle blanks that I have rounded out and rounded over the rims. I use Titebond 3. Works as good as anything else out there. I think it is cheaper as well.
@@robohippy Thanks for replying Reed. I did find the answer in one of your videos after I posted the question. Your videos are very informative and well set out. As an aside, are you still selling bowl tool rests? Regards Adam.
Hey robo :) Could you tell me the specs of your little band saw? I really need something like this but I am so unsure what to get. I will be purchasing one in February 2016 and wanna spend around $500 if that is possible. Ok thanks man :) I was also unsure of what TPI to get to cut up to 6" thick and be able to turn a circle with the band saw.
+ProD Miner That saw is over 20 years old. It has a 3/4 hp motor, and cuts 6 inches high. I don't think PM makes that model any more. Probably the only way to get a $500 bandsaw with a motor that hefty, is to find one used. Most in this size range now have 'riser' blocks you can put in so your vertical cutting height can go up to 12 inches rather than 6. A 1 hp motor can cut 12 inches high, IF you have a good sharp blade. If it is at all dull, they will really struggle. Ones that only cut 6 inches high are fine for cutting most circles, and some square blanks. For blades, I prefer the Lennox Diemaster Bimetal blades, 1/2 inch wide, and 3 tpi. You can find others that are cheaper, but they don't cut nearly as well, or resharpen as well either.
+robohippy man thank you so much! You deserve a million subscribers btw. Your videos are more into depth than any I have seen so far. Also I am Blake S on the forums about the proper tool for a bowl. I made a new tool and I am turning a oak bowl right now. I have one side complete, I watched your video on proper setup on chucking your bowl blanks and I learned something and even got to use that for my chuck spot. I am gonna try it right now and go carve the inside of the bowl wish me luck! I will be posting pics of it on the forums and it has a few nice elegant curse and about 6" diameter very beautiful bowl :)
+MANUEL GARZA Well, I don't really know. Mine are all made for cutting wood only, and I talked to my blade supply guy about cutting metal on the small saw, and he said it was way too fast for cutting metal. I would guess that the high speeds are for wood, and the slower speeds are for metal IF your saw is designed for both. If you have the manual that came with it, check that out, or call Sears and ask their techs to be sure and safe. The blade is as important as the speed and saw. Most blades that come with your saws are junk. I prefer the Lennox Diemaster Bimetal blades, 1/2 inch wide, and 3 teeth per inch. Not as good for cutting dry wood, but excellent for cutting green wood, and they can be resharpened.
Not sure I really have one. I went to a blade store in town after getting my first bandsaw and the guy there said that on saw tension meters were pretty much junk, like the blade that comes with the saw. He told to crank it up to the 1 inch setting for the 1/2 inch blade. My big saw has a much better scale on it, but I usually tighten it up more than what they say. This works if you use the thicker blades (not wider, but more heavy gauge). Some of the more thin blades will do a bit better with less tension. Best bandsaw set up video I have seen is by Carter bandsaw products. I will see if I can find the link, and remember to get it up here.
@@robohippy I use glue to seal the end grain trying it out for the first time....I'm new to turning..so I want to try what other experienced turners work best for them. Love your videos..I will try to do your method and also place them in plastic bags with shavings...that should stay stable for over six month I believe.
@@dannyboy9784 The problem with a plastic bag is that stuff can mold inside the bag. The blanks do need a little bit of air to keep that from happening. If I wrap the rim of maple blanks, they will mold under the plastic, perhaps because maple has a lot of sugar in it. I have tried glue on some pieces, and it seems to work. I have some Pacific Madrone, which is very prone to cracking. I turned some rolling pin blanks out of it and sealed them with glue on the ends, making sure to round over the ends of the cylinders, and having the glue go down the sides a bit. Thus far, it looks good. May be another year or so before I turn them. Madrone is one that can look fine on the outside, but be cracked on the inside. Some times, you can sink them in water, and a flowing stream is best. If you sink them in a barrel, the water can go rather nasty after a bit. Drying and preserving blanks is another part of the art of woodturning in part because every species of wood is different...
@@robohippy Thanks for the insight...I saw some people boil them for 1hr and put them in shavings after and they say it relieves the stress in the wood and cuts by half the drying time...interesting...I would have to try this on my next bowl turning....Cheers.
@@dannyboy9784 Boiling is done as one hour per inch of thickness. Allow to cool to air temperature, then remove from water. Allow surface to dry, then seal and store. Again, I don't like the storing in shavings, unless the shavings are dry. This method is used for difficult woods like madrone. I don't use it because it is too much work, it does muddle the colors together, and I like warped bowls. One turner, Christian Burshard, down in southern Oregon takes his madrone pieces, finish turns them, puts them in a paper bag, and then puts that paper bag inside a plastic bag. He changes out the paper bag every day. Dry wood shavings could do the same thing, but again, I would change them out. I did hear of one turner who would store his in big plastic drums. Still, they could mold. I put a bunch is a big trash container on wheels that I took to a symposium. Kept them nice for the duration of the show, and I turned enough so that they didn't mold... Off to the swimming pool now, have to get my exercise....
Oort bowls? Ever hear of the Oort cloud? Thousands upon thousands of dwarf planets and asteriods that orbit the sun. So maybe Oort bowls are the small ones that orbit the main bowls :) (Love your "small" bandsaw. My BIG bandsaw is 80mm ~ 3 1/2" lol)
Hi Reed hope all is good with you. I'm in the market for a new bandsaw. Most of my work is production bowl related. I currently have a 2hp 14" Grizzly bandsaw that struggles when I'm trying to cut green lumber that is 5" or higher. I've been using a 1/2" 3 skip tooth blade. Very frustrating and dangerous. Any suggestions on a good bandsaw that can help me cut 12' to 17" bowl blanks? Many Thanks! Skip Proctor
Hmm, if you have 2 hp driving the blade, it should walk through any wood with pretty much no effort. My first suspect would be your blade. Best value for blades, in my opinion is the Lennox Bimetal Diemaster blade. The teeth are M42 hss. This is a popular metal for turning tools now, and is also what they use on the pallet cutting blades. A nail might slow it down, but generally won't ruin the blade. Your blade might be dull or shot. These blades cost a bit more, but you get far more cutting from them, and any good saw sharpening service can sharpen the blades a couple of times rather than tossing it when dull. I use a 1/2 inch 3 tpi blade. Make sure to get one for wood, not metal. Other than a sharp blade, you need a really flat surface on the wood blank to cut circles. If the blank rocks at all when sitting on the table, then it will rock when you try to cut the circle and that will make the blade bind up in the cut.
@@robohippy Great advice. I think you're right on 2 fronts. My blade is probably cheap/dull and some of my blanks do rock on the saw table. I'll definitely get a wood Lennox blade. Worth the extra $$. Thanks again Reed!
*Worked perfectly right out of the box **MyBest.Tools** a nice compact bench bandsaw, that will work with 1/4 to 1/2 inch blades! First use was a joy, better quality than I expected for the price ! ! !*
Thank you very much for all the wealth of practical and important information you deliver during your videos! Amos form VABeach
Thank you so much for your patience and teaching. I am new at woodturning. I have been a woodworker for years. Worked in cabinet shops, carving furniture, cabinets for corporate jets. etc. etc. But this is the most exciting fun stuff. I only bought a mini lathe and want to do bowls. So small ones for now. I am learning so much by your videos. So thank simply.... thanks!
You certainly are a 'passionate' woodworker. The world needs more people with your energy & willingness to share! Keep on keeping on.
This is a brilliant video. What a great help you have been.
I am really proud of people like you , to share his experience to other people . thank you thank you very very much
After weeks and weeks of TH-cam exploration I've finally found what I consider to be the most useful video for preparing stock on a bandsaw for the lathe. Thank you so much!
Hi Reed
Thanks for the plastic wrap tip. I've got to get the old Bursgreen/Wadkins Bandsaw from my old School where I taught. My 14" is getting tired. Always come to your channel when I need answers.
Thanks
I am so jealous! I love the big band saw! Thanks for the tips!
Excellent video. Good timing as I am going to up size my bandsaw to the same brand you have. I like the standing on end technique.
Interesting how different countries call instruments by different names, your ‘compass’ to UK/AU is a pair of dividers. Always learning new things. Greetings from Tasmania Australia.👍😁🇦🇺🦘
Excellent tip about the shrink wrap ... Thanks!
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks I will try the plastic wrap tip. I don't have the larger Bandsaw but I will use the tips for my smaller Bandsaw
Nice video I like the tip with the plastic film.
great video what a bandsaw .
First time viewer and subscribed. Excellent instruction, very clear and to the point. It appears that their is no need for a circle cutting jig in your shop, man can you cut nice circles . Can you give a newbie a few tips on how to cut on the line so smoothly and so quickly? Ty
Well, first thing is to have a good sharp blade on the bandsaw. I use the Lennox Bimetal Diemaster blades, 1/2 inch by 3 tpi, and they do make a 'thick' one. With a 1/2 inch blade, you can cut a 6 inch circle. The thing about the Bimetal blades is that the teeth are M42 HSS, which a lot of turning tools are now being made out of, as well as it is the same metal they have on the pallet cutting blades. Stays sharper longer and cuts straighter. They can be resharpened easily if you have a good saw shop near by. Other than that, you want the side on the table to be flat so it doesn't rock when you are cutting the circle, which can make the blade bind up in the wood or even some times break. Having a good spot or task light really helps too. the problem I had with the circle cutting jigs, is that even after cutting the circle, you have to drill a hole for a worm screw, or put a face plate on, or like I do, drill a recess. Even if the blank is perfectly round, it still ends up being a little off center.
Hey Robo,
"Big-Time" grateful for your sharing and guidance.
If I could ask one question though; was curious as to the horse-rating on your "little" band saw?
And looking forward to more great videos.
Thanks again!
The little PM is 3/4 hp I think. great for up to 6 inches, which is the limit of how high this one will cut. You can cut 12 inches high with 1 hp, but it is a struggle. Of course, good sharp blade is a must.
robohippy Right on!...and thanks again...
Very well explained Robo...Great tips as well mate..
cheers Mick!!!
Just wondering what size and model is your large bandsaw?
Great info Reed. How would advise storing and sealing the half logs before putting them through your process?
I think I cover this some where.... Been a while. Personal preference, and a lot depends on where you live, I prefer to keep logs whole and cut off pieces as I need them. I use a heavy duty tarp on the ground, and heavy tarps on top so they are pretty much sealed from wind and sun light. Keeping them under trees is good. I don't seal the ends of my logs. If you cut them into sections, then you need to make them longer than they are wide. I used to do it that way, but found out I lost more wood that way. If you want to seal the ends, there are a couple of log end grain sealers. I only seal spindle blanks that I have rounded out and rounded over the rims. I use Titebond 3. Works as good as anything else out there. I think it is cheaper as well.
@@robohippy Thanks for replying Reed. I did find the answer in one of your videos after I posted the question. Your videos are very informative and well set out. As an aside, are you still selling bowl tool rests? Regards Adam.
Your bandsaw is equipped with a car alarm?
Good demo.
what size of blade on the second saw you cut the circles on? Width and TPI? Thanks!
The smaller saw has a Lennox Diemaster Bimetal blade. 1/2 inch with 3 tpi. You can cut a 6 inch diameter blank with that.
@@robohippy thanks!
Hey robo :) Could you tell me the specs of your little band saw? I really need something like this but I am so unsure what to get. I will be purchasing one in February 2016 and wanna spend around $500 if that is possible. Ok thanks man :)
I was also unsure of what TPI to get to cut up to 6" thick and be able to turn a circle with the band saw.
+ProD Miner That saw is over 20 years old. It has a 3/4 hp motor, and cuts 6 inches high. I don't think PM makes that model any more. Probably the only way to get a $500 bandsaw with a motor that hefty, is to find one used. Most in this size range now have 'riser' blocks you can put in so your vertical cutting height can go up to 12 inches rather than 6. A 1 hp motor can cut 12 inches high, IF you have a good sharp blade. If it is at all dull, they will really struggle. Ones that only cut 6 inches high are fine for cutting most circles, and some square blanks. For blades, I prefer the Lennox Diemaster Bimetal blades, 1/2 inch wide, and 3 tpi. You can find others that are cheaper, but they don't cut nearly as well, or resharpen as well either.
+robohippy man thank you so much! You deserve a million subscribers btw. Your videos are more into depth than any I have seen so far.
Also I am Blake S on the forums about the proper tool for a bowl. I made a new tool and I am turning a oak bowl right now. I have one side complete, I watched your video on proper setup on chucking your bowl blanks and I learned something and even got to use that for my chuck spot. I am gonna try it right now and go carve the inside of the bowl wish me luck! I will be posting pics of it on the forums and it has a few nice elegant curse and about 6" diameter very beautiful bowl :)
hi robo I have a craftsman bandsaw . I can cut up to 8 inches. what speed is best to cut green wood it has a low and high speed .
+MANUEL GARZA Well, I don't really know. Mine are all made for cutting wood only, and I talked to my blade supply guy about cutting metal on the small saw, and he said it was way too fast for cutting metal. I would guess that the high speeds are for wood, and the slower speeds are for metal IF your saw is designed for both. If you have the manual that came with it, check that out, or call Sears and ask their techs to be sure and safe. The blade is as important as the speed and saw. Most blades that come with your saws are junk. I prefer the Lennox Diemaster Bimetal blades, 1/2 inch wide, and 3 teeth per inch. Not as good for cutting dry wood, but excellent for cutting green wood, and they can be resharpened.
Back again.
My question this time: what's your technique for "proper" tensioning of the blade.
Not sure I really have one. I went to a blade store in town after getting my first bandsaw and the guy there said that on saw tension meters were pretty much junk, like the blade that comes with the saw. He told to crank it up to the 1 inch setting for the 1/2 inch blade. My big saw has a much better scale on it, but I usually tighten it up more than what they say. This works if you use the thicker blades (not wider, but more heavy gauge). Some of the more thin blades will do a bit better with less tension. Best bandsaw set up video I have seen is by Carter bandsaw products. I will see if I can find the link, and remember to get it up here.
Here is the link to Cater Bandsaw products set up. Excellent: th-cam.com/video/wGbZqWac0jU/w-d-xo.html
Fantastic!...Thanks!
Great video, how long would the wrap last? could you leave something wrapped in shavings for 6 month?
I have had some pieces remain crack free for 6 months or so, but not much longer than that.
@@robohippy I use glue to seal the end grain trying it out for the first time....I'm new to turning..so I want to try what other experienced turners work best for them. Love your videos..I will try to do your method and also place them in plastic bags with shavings...that should stay stable for over six month I believe.
@@dannyboy9784 The problem with a plastic bag is that stuff can mold inside the bag. The blanks do need a little bit of air to keep that from happening. If I wrap the rim of maple blanks, they will mold under the plastic, perhaps because maple has a lot of sugar in it. I have tried glue on some pieces, and it seems to work. I have some Pacific Madrone, which is very prone to cracking. I turned some rolling pin blanks out of it and sealed them with glue on the ends, making sure to round over the ends of the cylinders, and having the glue go down the sides a bit. Thus far, it looks good. May be another year or so before I turn them. Madrone is one that can look fine on the outside, but be cracked on the inside. Some times, you can sink them in water, and a flowing stream is best. If you sink them in a barrel, the water can go rather nasty after a bit. Drying and preserving blanks is another part of the art of woodturning in part because every species of wood is different...
@@robohippy Thanks for the insight...I saw some people boil them for 1hr and put them in shavings after and they say it relieves the stress in the wood and cuts by half the drying time...interesting...I would have to try this on my next bowl turning....Cheers.
@@dannyboy9784 Boiling is done as one hour per inch of thickness. Allow to cool to air temperature, then remove from water. Allow surface to dry, then seal and store. Again, I don't like the storing in shavings, unless the shavings are dry. This method is used for difficult woods like madrone. I don't use it because it is too much work, it does muddle the colors together, and I like warped bowls. One turner, Christian Burshard, down in southern Oregon takes his madrone pieces, finish turns them, puts them in a paper bag, and then puts that paper bag inside a plastic bag. He changes out the paper bag every day. Dry wood shavings could do the same thing, but again, I would change them out. I did hear of one turner who would store his in big plastic drums. Still, they could mold. I put a bunch is a big trash container on wheels that I took to a symposium. Kept them nice for the duration of the show, and I turned enough so that they didn't mold... Off to the swimming pool now, have to get my exercise....
Oort bowls? Ever hear of the Oort cloud? Thousands upon thousands of dwarf planets and asteriods that orbit the sun. So maybe Oort bowls are the small ones that orbit the main bowls :) (Love your "small" bandsaw. My BIG bandsaw is 80mm ~ 3 1/2" lol)
Hi Reed hope all is good with you. I'm in the market for a new bandsaw. Most of my work is production bowl related. I currently have a 2hp 14" Grizzly bandsaw that struggles when I'm trying to cut green lumber that is 5" or higher. I've been using a 1/2" 3 skip tooth blade. Very frustrating and dangerous. Any suggestions on a good bandsaw that can help me cut 12' to 17" bowl blanks? Many Thanks! Skip Proctor
Hmm, if you have 2 hp driving the blade, it should walk through any wood with pretty much no effort. My first suspect would be your blade. Best value for blades, in my opinion is the Lennox Bimetal Diemaster blade. The teeth are M42 hss. This is a popular metal for turning tools now, and is also what they use on the pallet cutting blades. A nail might slow it down, but generally won't ruin the blade. Your blade might be dull or shot. These blades cost a bit more, but you get far more cutting from them, and any good saw sharpening service can sharpen the blades a couple of times rather than tossing it when dull. I use a 1/2 inch 3 tpi blade. Make sure to get one for wood, not metal.
Other than a sharp blade, you need a really flat surface on the wood blank to cut circles. If the blank rocks at all when sitting on the table, then it will rock when you try to cut the circle and that will make the blade bind up in the cut.
@@robohippy Great advice. I think you're right on 2 fronts. My blade is probably cheap/dull and some of my blanks do rock on the saw table. I'll definitely get a wood Lennox blade. Worth the extra $$. Thanks again Reed!
How much you bench, I mean band saw? Ha!
Your band saw doesn’t sound happy when it’s starting