This is awesome Reed 👌 It's first time watching your video , It's game changing . Before watching this video, the bowl turning from inside was a nightmare for me . As I saw you using scrapper for inside of bowl, I did the the same and I found it so simple and easy for me , a hobby wood Turner. Thanks for teaching me to use scrapper. I was never comfortable with scrapper before watching you, from today I can say I LOVE SCRAPPERS in woodturning.
A Trend Credit Card sized Diamond Plate at 600 grit is perfect for the little carbide tips. I use mine to sharpen these and my carbide saw blades and router bits.
Like many, I was ready to give up on bowls. Envisioned turning Christmas ornaments until everyone started looking at me funny. I acquired a heavy round nose scraper and all of a sudden, I'm back in the bowl business. Thanks for your time. Your videos are well thought out, direct and clear. Thank you
Three years into woodturning, I am still a novice and this video was excellent for giving me sound advice on scrapers. I still have problems with bumps and ridges and your instructions were insightful. Many thanks Reed. John von
Reed, a great demo on scrapers I will now refine my technique, I remember an old old wood turner telling me that when he was a production turner many years ago all they had were scraping tools. Thanks for the demo keep them coming. Thanks Steve
"those who know how will always work for those who know why". I appreciate the "why" perspective of the "how". Many turning vids just show how to do it but not why they do it that way. Maybe they don't know but it's more helpful to know why so maybe it can be modified to work better for me.
Reed, Thanks for the Vids. I find them invaluable as a new turner just learning the ropes. You are clear and concise when most people gloss over stuff thinking you already know. If I knew I would not be watching TH-cam videos. Thanks for being clear for a dummy like me. Cheers and God Bless The thin Blue Line, Marc
Just taken up turning and found your video exceptionally well presented so informative and a joy to watch, really did not appreciate the scope that you have shown with scrapers, a big thanks to you! regards, Tony
Stopped turning a bowl because scraper is dull. Stumbled on this video after seeing a sharpening one. Now I am ready from some light clean up. Thanks, I'll be back!
I've watched several of your video's while waiting for my CBN wheels and now that I'm able to keep my tools sharp, I've discovered that I actually like using a round nose scraper instead of the roughing gouge. It just feels better and seems to take less time. Not to mention it's easier and faster to sharpen than a roughing gouge.
Great video Reed. Very good demonstration with the scrapers. Have used them some for finishing, but never really thought to use them for big wood removal. Guess I have some practicing to do. Thanks for sharing. Fred
Another great video. I especially like they way you explain what you are doing and why you are doing it. So many turning videos just show things without very much of an explanation of why. I also like that a lot of your videos are short and focused on a single subject, such as this one on scrapers. Thanks again.
i use to spend long time to smooth out bowls from tool signs etc... with this video i realized how much i need a "heavy duty" scraper! you made me spend more money hahaha...but thank you a lot for the knowledge !
I will be redoing this clip. Mostly now I use a 1 inch wide Big Ugly tool, and I do have a couple of clips about that one. I have found that size to be not too big and not too little. I can easily stall my 3 hp American Beauty lathe with it, and a bigger one doesn't serve any real purpose. For those who say the bigger scrapers = less vibration, I say move your tool rest closer. Another thing about bigger scrapers is that it takes very little to get way too much cutting edge into the wood at one time and you get over powered, even me, and I am not little. Like my Kung Fu teacher says, 'Appetizer first, then main course.' So start small and work your way up...
Thank you for your response, i would like to have your suggestion if possible, i found two tools from a trusty UK company one is 3/4" - 19mm wide and the other 1 1/2" -38mm wide curved scrapers (heavy duty style). for the purpose i need it (smoothing out bowl surface from tool signs and make it flat) the small one do you think can make the job?
This is awesome, love your work. I came across this because I'm having big problems with trying to scrape the inside of bowls to finish, constant catches. It seems like the key is tool angle and rest height?
Once the bowl rim area is down to final thickness, I never take a scraper back to that part for any finish cuts. The bowl starts to vibrate and can blow up. Most of the time I shear scrape the inside rim and walls, and have a shear scraping video up. Another popular method is to use a negative rake scraper (NRS). I hope to have a video out on that in a month or two, and touch on it in the last bit of the shear scraping video. The NRS is a high maintenance tool, the burr only lasts for a few seconds.
Reed; Excellent, but don't throw out the carbide bits. Any carbide bit with a flat top can be sharpened easily. Get a small diamond hone. Fine grit works best. Remove the bit from the tool. Put a drop of water on the hone, then put the bit cutting edge down on the hone. Move in a figure 8 pattern about 8 times. Rotate bit 90 degrees and repeat 3 more times. Dry bit and wipe off hone. Takes about 2 minutes to do.
I think it is in the AAW Forum where this came up, but yes, the flat type cutters can be touched up fairly well, and it may be even better if you have one of the new Diamond wheels for the Tormek. The cupped type of cutters can not be touched up. Any thing that can be done with the carbide cutters can be done just as well with a standard scraper. The carbide tipped ones are too small for about 99% of what I do, and standard scrapers and the Big Ugly tool are far easier to sharpen. I did borrow that set of carbide tools from the local Woodcraft store.
There is a detailed discussion on Sawmill Creek Woodturning forums. I use 45 degrees on each side. Some go 70/20, or other variations. Stuart Batty is probably the expert on them.
Sorry, got distracted, again.... Scrapers work fine on dry wood, and just like gouges, with dry wood and harder woods, your feed rate is a lot slower. I have another video called Scary Scrapers, and I explain more about it there. I don't like big scrapers.
You can get pretty much the same finish cuts with wood wet or dry. More than anything, it depends on the wood. I have found that some times a gouge, sharpened on a 600 grit CBN wheel will leave a better surface than the shear scrape will. Had 2 logs of myrtle wood recently, one cut glass smooth with a shear scrape, the other one would only cut nice with the gouge. Just because. There is some debate about the use of files for turning tools. They can take a good edge for cutting, but are very brittle, and can snap if you get a catch. Tempering makes it safer for that use. I have heard that car leaf springs also can work well. I really have no metal skills other than grinding and sharpening...
I don't have any. Never got any of the flat type ones. I do have a couple of older cupped ones but hot getting rid of them. John Lucas from out east says that the cupped ones will chip if you use any plate on them to touch up the edges.
Marc, I have been using the Vicmark chucks. When I bought my first chuck, I went to Craft Supplies and was asking about a Nova. The tech told me that the Vicmark was the better chuck. I think most are pretty good though. I do prefer the dove tail jaws. Mostly it is a wedge joint, like the dove tail joint in furniture making, and holds a lot better than straight joints.
is that bowl blank..green wood ..you get suck nice ribbon shavings...and tools seem to heat up...my cutters get very warm ...is that normal...just recently bought..three carbide tools...round square and a diamond...might of jumped the gun ...not that impressed...I want to be able to cut like you.....haven't used any green wood yet....also got a Chuck like yours love it....lathe is still a shopsmith though...
+RANDY GRAMMATICO Randy, yes, the green wood cuts much easier than dry wood. This is especially true with Madrone, one of our northwest native trees. There is always some heat generated when you cut, and much more when the wood is dry. Dry wood also does not tend to generate the nice long ribbons that green wood does. Sharp tools are a must for cutting as dull tools will make for more heat. I don't use the carbide tipped tools mostly because they do not resharpen well, and there are no cuts I can do with them that I can't do with standard scrapers. Perhaps one reason why they are popular is that scrapers are fairly easy to use, but most that are sold are bigger than most people can handle. I haven't tried the Shopsmith, but I have heard that start up speed in the slowest speed is around 700 or so, which is on the high end unless the blank is almost perfectly balanced.
This is awesome Reed 👌
It's first time watching your video , It's game changing .
Before watching this video, the bowl turning from inside was a nightmare for me . As I saw you using scrapper for inside of bowl, I did the the same and I found it so simple and easy for me , a hobby wood Turner.
Thanks for teaching me to use scrapper.
I was never comfortable with scrapper before watching you, from today I can say I LOVE SCRAPPERS in woodturning.
These are hands down the most informative, useful, creative video's I have seen from anyone. period.
A Trend Credit Card sized Diamond Plate at 600 grit is perfect for the little carbide tips. I use mine to sharpen these and my carbide saw blades and router bits.
Like many, I was ready to give up on bowls. Envisioned turning Christmas ornaments until everyone started looking at me funny. I acquired a heavy round nose scraper and all of a sudden, I'm back in the bowl business. Thanks for your time. Your videos are well thought out, direct and clear.
Thank you
Three years into woodturning, I am still a novice and this video was excellent for giving me sound advice on scrapers. I still have problems with bumps and ridges and your instructions were insightful. Many thanks Reed.
John von
Reed, a great demo on scrapers I will now refine my technique, I remember an old old wood turner telling me that when he was a production turner many years ago all they had were scraping tools. Thanks for the demo keep them coming.
Thanks
Steve
Reed, you videos are second to none. You are an excellent teacher. Thank you for sharing your wisdom!
"those who know how will always work for those who know why".
I appreciate the "why" perspective of the "how". Many turning vids just show how to do it but not why they do it that way. Maybe they don't know but it's more helpful to know why so maybe it can be modified to work better for me.
that is some amazing control on the bottom inside clean up cut.
Reed, Thanks for the Vids. I find them invaluable as a new turner just learning the ropes. You are clear and concise when most people gloss over stuff thinking you already know. If I knew I would not be watching TH-cam videos. Thanks for being clear for a dummy like me.
Cheers and God Bless The thin Blue Line,
Marc
Just taken up turning and found your video exceptionally well presented so informative and a joy to watch, really did not appreciate the scope that you have shown with scrapers, a big thanks to you! regards, Tony
Stopped turning a bowl because scraper is dull. Stumbled on this video after seeing a sharpening one. Now I am ready from some light clean up. Thanks, I'll be back!
I've watched several of your video's while waiting for my CBN wheels and now that I'm able to keep my tools sharp, I've discovered that I actually like using a round nose scraper instead of the roughing gouge. It just feels better and seems to take less time. Not to mention it's easier and faster to sharpen than a roughing gouge.
Excellent tutorial Reed, very clearly explained as well.
Take care
Mike
Once again a great effort. Scraping could not be presented better.
Thak you again
Great video Reed. Very good demonstration with the scrapers. Have used them some for finishing, but never really thought to use them for big wood removal. Guess I have some practicing to do. Thanks for sharing. Fred
thanks reed.
each time you post a video, i learn something new
keep on the good work
thanks for the time you take to do these videos. It really helped me understand the use of them better
Another great video. I especially like they way you explain what you are doing and why you are doing it. So many turning videos just show things without very much of an explanation of why. I also like that a lot of your videos are short and focused on a single subject, such as this one on scrapers. Thanks again.
i use to spend long time to smooth out bowls from tool signs etc... with this video i realized how much i need a "heavy duty" scraper! you made me spend more money hahaha...but thank you a lot for the knowledge !
I will be redoing this clip. Mostly now I use a 1 inch wide Big Ugly tool, and I do have a couple of clips about that one. I have found that size to be not too big and not too little. I can easily stall my 3 hp American Beauty lathe with it, and a bigger one doesn't serve any real purpose. For those who say the bigger scrapers = less vibration, I say move your tool rest closer. Another thing about bigger scrapers is that it takes very little to get way too much cutting edge into the wood at one time and you get over powered, even me, and I am not little. Like my Kung Fu teacher says, 'Appetizer first, then main course.' So start small and work your way up...
Thank you for your response, i would like to have your suggestion if possible, i found two tools from a trusty UK company one is 3/4" - 19mm wide and the other 1 1/2" -38mm wide curved scrapers (heavy duty style). for the purpose i need it (smoothing out bowl surface from tool signs and make it flat) the small one do you think can make the job?
www.turners-retreat.co.uk/tools/robert-sorby-turning-tools/scrapers two left tools... hm hm dilemma
The Carbide inserts can be sharpened by rubbing the face or the screw side flat on a diamond plate or file, I have sharpened mine several times
This is awesome, love your work. I came across this because I'm having big problems with trying to scrape the inside of bowls to finish, constant catches. It seems like the key is tool angle and rest height?
Once the bowl rim area is down to final thickness, I never take a scraper back to that part for any finish cuts. The bowl starts to vibrate and can blow up. Most of the time I shear scrape the inside rim and walls, and have a shear scraping video up. Another popular method is to use a negative rake scraper (NRS). I hope to have a video out on that in a month or two, and touch on it in the last bit of the shear scraping video. The NRS is a high maintenance tool, the burr only lasts for a few seconds.
is this wet wood if not its the best scrapping ive ever seen
you almost make the gouge redundant , nice.
Reed; Excellent, but don't throw out the carbide bits. Any carbide bit with a flat top can be sharpened easily. Get a small diamond hone. Fine grit works best. Remove the bit from the tool. Put a drop of water on the hone, then put the bit cutting edge down on the hone. Move in a figure 8 pattern about 8 times. Rotate bit 90 degrees and repeat 3 more times. Dry bit and wipe off hone. Takes about 2 minutes to do.
I think it is in the AAW Forum where this came up, but yes, the flat type cutters can be touched up fairly well, and it may be even better if you have one of the new Diamond wheels for the Tormek. The cupped type of cutters can not be touched up. Any thing that can be done with the carbide cutters can be done just as well with a standard scraper. The carbide tipped ones are too small for about 99% of what I do, and standard scrapers and the Big Ugly tool are far easier to sharpen. I did borrow that set of carbide tools from the local Woodcraft store.
Reed, Do like/use Neg Rake Scrapers? If so how do you use them and at which angles do you grind?
Thanks,
Marc
There is a detailed discussion on Sawmill Creek Woodturning forums. I use 45 degrees on each side. Some go 70/20, or other variations. Stuart Batty is probably the expert on them.
screwed up my first good bowl...getting frustrated...was a segmented bowl.....need to try some solid green wood I guess
How do they work for heavy cuts in dry wood? I get a massive amount of catches in dry bowls.
Sorry, got distracted, again.... Scrapers work fine on dry wood, and just like gouges, with dry wood and harder woods, your feed rate is a lot slower. I have another video called Scary Scrapers, and I explain more about it there. I don't like big scrapers.
Crystalon wheel for sharpening carbide...it is very easy or diamond.
this was done with wet wood. would you get the same results with dry?
Is it possible to make a scraper out of a file?
You can get pretty much the same finish cuts with wood wet or dry. More than anything, it depends on the wood. I have found that some times a gouge, sharpened on a 600 grit CBN wheel will leave a better surface than the shear scrape will. Had 2 logs of myrtle wood recently, one cut glass smooth with a shear scrape, the other one would only cut nice with the gouge. Just because.
There is some debate about the use of files for turning tools. They can take a good edge for cutting, but are very brittle, and can snap if you get a catch. Tempering makes it safer for that use. I have heard that car leaf springs also can work well. I really have no metal skills other than grinding and sharpening...
Please send me your “toss away” carbide inserts. I sharpen them and reuse a bunch of times.
I don't have any. Never got any of the flat type ones. I do have a couple of older cupped ones but hot getting rid of them. John Lucas from out east says that the cupped ones will chip if you use any plate on them to touch up the edges.
Also what kind of chuck are you using and why?
Marc
Marc, I have been using the Vicmark chucks. When I bought my first chuck, I went to Craft Supplies and was asking about a Nova. The tech told me that the Vicmark was the better chuck. I think most are pretty good though. I do prefer the dove tail jaws. Mostly it is a wedge joint, like the dove tail joint in furniture making, and holds a lot better than straight joints.
is that bowl blank..green wood ..you get suck nice ribbon shavings...and tools seem to heat up...my cutters get very warm ...is that normal...just recently bought..three carbide tools...round square and a diamond...might of jumped the gun ...not that impressed...I want to be able to cut like you.....haven't used any green wood yet....also got a Chuck like yours love it....lathe is still a shopsmith though...
+RANDY GRAMMATICO Randy, yes, the green wood cuts much easier than dry wood. This is especially true with Madrone, one of our northwest native trees. There is always some heat generated when you cut, and much more when the wood is dry. Dry wood also does not tend to generate the nice long ribbons that green wood does. Sharp tools are a must for cutting as dull tools will make for more heat. I don't use the carbide tipped tools mostly because they do not resharpen well, and there are no cuts I can do with them that I can't do with standard scrapers. Perhaps one reason why they are popular is that scrapers are fairly easy to use, but most that are sold are bigger than most people can handle. I haven't tried the Shopsmith, but I have heard that start up speed in the slowest speed is around 700 or so, which is on the high end unless the blank is almost perfectly balanced.
You need to watch Utube and learn how to sharpen tools!
Can you explain why you think I need to watch YOU tube to learn how to sharpen? I have a couple up on sharpening, perhaps you should watch them....