I can't say enough about your style of teaching. I've only been a subscriber for a couple of weeks, but I've learned so much. I have been a woodturner for 19 years & have been doing some of it wrong for a long time. Thank You so much, Jim
You're a master of woodturning instructional videos! Please keep 'em coming! I learned more in the last hours watching your videos than I learned in the last months watching other channels! You have a great way of explaining things: no unnecessary repetitions, nice clear instructions, great recording quality and a kind of screen presence other people can only wish they had. Pleeease make more videos! I would even be more than willing to pay for them (you could make a patreon page for example).
+heriberthuber54 I do this mostly because I am having a lot of fun doing it. I hate the videos that have the 'skip to video in 5 seconds'. I will have more coming, hopefully a few before Christmas.
I really appreciate this and your other videos. I particularly like how you break each cut down to the essentials and make it easy to follow what to focus on in each instance. Thanks!
I'm amazed you don't have more subscribers, you are a first rate turner and teacher! I keep watching your videos again and continue to learn. I can't seem to get it to stick in my head, my excuse is that I am left handed, I'm sure that makes it harder....
Well, perhaps one of the most important skills to learn is that you move with your body, which does most of the work, and your hands just hold the tool in place while your body moves. I took up Tai Chi 5 or more years after I started turning, and first impression was 'gee, this is what I do when standing at the lathe'. That and practice. There are some lefties who either turn outboard, or run the lathe in reverse (if you have a sliding headstock and set screw on your chuck) which makes it more left oriented...
Collin, I am not sure exactly what you are asking. Just about any gouge will work on the outside of the bowl because nothing restricts moving the tool. On the inside, you do need one gouge with about a 60 to 70 degree bevel so you can go through the transition and across the bottom. Some like swept back gouges, and most of them are ground to about 60 degree bevels. This gets you through most insides of the bowl. The 45 bevel/45 degree sweep is my preferred gouge on the outside, and down the inside wall, but I have to switch for any concave/ bends inward type shape. Hope this helps.
Thank you for making your instructions stick in my brain (e.g. "A,B,C"). Also, thanks for acknowledging that some days "tools are not working". I used to believe it was me or my novice experience. It is heartening to know the professionals have off days as well. Please continue to make additional videos and teach. My one question, is there a specific rationale as to what type of finish cut you use? Maybe it is simply users choice. Thanks again. Tim
Well, for a bowl finish, I want 2 things, one is to make it easy for the customer to refresh or fix the finish. This eliminates any surface finish like the spray lacquers and water based finishes which can crack, chip, and/or peel. The other is some thing food safe, which to me is anything that I can eat straight out of the can before I put it on my bowls. This eliminates the solvent based finishes, which are 'food safe' after they cure and the solvents have evaporated off. Walnut oil is the best of these, either from Mike Mahoney, or The Doctor's Woodshop. Their mixes are a bit different than what you get in the salad oil sections of the super markets, but not positive on all the differences. I think I have this up some where under bowl care, or on my web site. Can't remember.....
Oops! I was reading your comment and question again and noticed it was 'finish cuts' and not 'finishes'..... I almost always finish with a shear scrape because that leaves the most consistent surface. Most of the time there will always be ripples from the gouge because I am moving, or breathing too heavy or just because. The shear scrape will clear all of that up. Outsides of bowls I use a push cut with a 45/45 gouge, then shear scrape. Inside, I use a 45/45 for down the wall, and then any one of several BOB (bottom of bowl) gouges, which are mostly 70 degree bevels and a nose profile that is more blunt ) shaped rather than pointed because I tend to hold tools level and cut more with the nose than the wings. Some times, I will use a 60 degree bevel on a slightly more open or flatter piece. If I am getting ripples in the bottom of the bowl that I can't cut out, then a standard scraper sweeping VERY LIGHTLY across the bottom, but not up the transition or on the walls. Some times a NRS (negative rake scraper). It is very difficult to do a good flat shear scrape across the bottom, but not too difficult to wo one up the sides. Just because. I do have one video up on shear scraping, and need to get one done on the NRS, which I am still figuring out...
Well, that could be a whole bunch of different things. First thing could be tool steel. A lot of the cheap sets, especially older ones can be high carbon steel, or the 'foreign' ones which are called M2 HSS are not high speed steel at all. After that, it could be are you really getting them sharp in the first place. I do have a couple of sharpening videos up, which may help. There are all sorts of 'holds an edge 5 times longer' tools available. My preference are tools from Doug Thompson, or D Way tools. You are buying from the guys that make them, and not paying extra for 'signature' brand tools. Tool steel of choice is M42 HSS (D Way), or V10 from Doug. While they do hold an edge 5 times longer, what that means is you can hog off a lot more wood before needing to go back to the grinder, but I still use a fresh edge for finish cuts. It just saves sanding...
@@robohippy I have a old craftsman set and a harbor freight that my wife bought me. I got a Savannah sharpening system for Christmas but I only have a high speed grinder with a crap wheel...I'm getting a new one in about a week especially for my tools. What kind of wheel can I get that I can use on my high speed with the effects of a slow speed...btw, I am watching your sharpening video now.. I don't have a table saw but I know what your going thru
@@williamcarson7519 Your tools are most likely high carbon steel. As for wheels, I think the blue ceramic ones from Norton are probably the better ones. The white aluminum oxide ones work, but usually aren't nearly as good. This kind of depends on budget. High speed grinders work, but you need a very light touch on the tool/wheel/jig. Most people tend to grind rather than sharpen. Your tools might respond fairly well to touching up on a wet stone a few times before going back to the grinder. My favorite wheels are the CBN ones. They are spin and bubble balanced, so no wobble, unless the grinder is out of whack. There is never any risk of them blowing up. They will last a production turner 5 or so years, and most hobby turners close to a life time. Cheapest ones are from Woodturner's Wonders/Ken Rizza, and I get mine from D Way tools.
@@robohippy I am a retired machinist that took up wood turning to keep my sanity. I have the white Norton Aluminum oxide wheel and it wobbles (left to right) no matter how many times I try to true it up. I think injustice need to go get a slow speed grinder. Finances are tight due to being on disability..steps...little by little
@@williamcarson7519 Some times it is the nut on the grinder. They are not machined dead flat and parallel. This can cause wobble. There are 'helical' washer sets, one concave and the other convex so they will be square to the shaft (Ken Rizza has them). If the shaft is short, some times you don't get enough room to mount them. Some times, just rotating the wheel 45 or 90 degrees can take the wobble out. Some times it is just the wheel. Oneway has a balancing set up for that type of wheel, but by the time you get one of those, you might as well get a CBN wheel. If it ain't one thing, then, it's another....
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I agree with the last comment. Having been a classroom teacher for 30 years, you are a master. Wonderful videos, great instruction.
Finally someone who can explain what you need to know and extremely clear, you are a wizard thank you John
I can't say enough about your style of teaching. I've only been a subscriber for a couple of weeks, but I've learned so much.
I have been a woodturner for 19 years & have been doing some of it wrong for a long time.
Thank You so much, Jim
Thanks for taking the time to do these, verbal explanation is quite helpful. Seeing it live is priceless.
This is better than a lot of the instructional DVDs out there. The camera angles are perfect for tuition. Well done and thanks!
You're a master of woodturning instructional videos! Please keep 'em coming!
I learned more in the last hours watching your videos than I learned in the last months watching other channels!
You have a great way of explaining things: no unnecessary repetitions, nice clear instructions, great recording quality and a kind of screen presence other people can only wish they had.
Pleeease make more videos!
I would even be more than willing to pay for them (you could make a patreon page for example).
+heriberthuber54 I do this mostly because I am having a lot of fun doing it. I hate the videos that have the 'skip to video in 5 seconds'. I will have more coming, hopefully a few before Christmas.
+robohippy I am glad you will make more videos and seriously looking forward to the new ones :-)
Thank you!
First rate teaching! Many thanks,
I really appreciate this and your other videos. I particularly like how you break each cut down to the essentials and make it easy to follow what to focus on in each instance.
Thanks!
Excellent tutorial! Certainly one of the best I have seen on this subject. Precise, easy to follow and good camera angles, great job!
I'm amazed you don't have more subscribers, you are a first rate turner and teacher! I keep watching your videos again and continue to learn. I can't seem to get it to stick in my head, my excuse is that I am left handed, I'm sure that makes it harder....
Well, perhaps one of the most important skills to learn is that you move with your body, which does most of the work, and your hands just hold the tool in place while your body moves. I took up Tai Chi 5 or more years after I started turning, and first impression was 'gee, this is what I do when standing at the lathe'. That and practice. There are some lefties who either turn outboard, or run the lathe in reverse (if you have a sliding headstock and set screw on your chuck) which makes it more left oriented...
so i keep coming back to this video and still learn more each time i watch it thanks again Reed,,,
reagrds, Dave from down under.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Collin, I am not sure exactly what you are asking. Just about any gouge will work on the outside of the bowl because nothing restricts moving the tool. On the inside, you do need one gouge with about a 60 to 70 degree bevel so you can go through the transition and across the bottom. Some like swept back gouges, and most of them are ground to about 60 degree bevels. This gets you through most insides of the bowl. The 45 bevel/45 degree sweep is my preferred gouge on the outside, and down the inside wall, but I have to switch for any concave/ bends inward type shape. Hope this helps.
all your videos are very helpful to me thank you very much.
Great videos. You really address many of the things that I have been trying to work out myself. Thanks!
Another great tutorial Reed, thanks mate, Harry
Hi Reed! Great tutorial my friend! I learnt a lot with this video, thank you so much for sharing! Cheers! Daniel
A magical lesson, , great, thanks 👍🤘
you are a great terner thank you
Thats excelent, I thougt that nobody uses the round chisel as an skew, I just discovered it a little time ago. Cheers
Thanks for another great lesson Reed. JimE
Thank you for making your instructions stick in my brain (e.g. "A,B,C"). Also, thanks for acknowledging that some days "tools are not working". I used to believe it was me or my novice experience. It is heartening to know the professionals have off days as well. Please continue to make additional videos and teach. My one question, is there a specific rationale as to what type of finish cut you use? Maybe it is simply users choice. Thanks again. Tim
Well, for a bowl finish, I want 2 things, one is to make it easy for the customer to refresh or fix the finish. This eliminates any surface finish like the spray lacquers and water based finishes which can crack, chip, and/or peel. The other is some thing food safe, which to me is anything that I can eat straight out of the can before I put it on my bowls. This eliminates the solvent based finishes, which are 'food safe' after they cure and the solvents have evaporated off. Walnut oil is the best of these, either from Mike Mahoney, or The Doctor's Woodshop. Their mixes are a bit different than what you get in the salad oil sections of the super markets, but not positive on all the differences. I think I have this up some where under bowl care, or on my web site. Can't remember.....
Oops! I was reading your comment and question again and noticed it was 'finish cuts' and not 'finishes'..... I almost always finish with a shear scrape because that leaves the most consistent surface. Most of the time there will always be ripples from the gouge because I am moving, or breathing too heavy or just because. The shear scrape will clear all of that up. Outsides of bowls I use a push cut with a 45/45 gouge, then shear scrape. Inside, I use a 45/45 for down the wall, and then any one of several BOB (bottom of bowl) gouges, which are mostly 70 degree bevels and a nose profile that is more blunt ) shaped rather than pointed because I tend to hold tools level and cut more with the nose than the wings. Some times, I will use a 60 degree bevel on a slightly more open or flatter piece. If I am getting ripples in the bottom of the bowl that I can't cut out, then a standard scraper sweeping VERY LIGHTLY across the bottom, but not up the transition or on the walls. Some times a NRS (negative rake scraper). It is very difficult to do a good flat shear scrape across the bottom, but not too difficult to wo one up the sides. Just because. I do have one video up on shear scraping, and need to get one done on the NRS, which I am still figuring out...
First rate!
Why can't my tools hold an edge
Well, that could be a whole bunch of different things. First thing could be tool steel. A lot of the cheap sets, especially older ones can be high carbon steel, or the 'foreign' ones which are called M2 HSS are not high speed steel at all. After that, it could be are you really getting them sharp in the first place. I do have a couple of sharpening videos up, which may help. There are all sorts of 'holds an edge 5 times longer' tools available. My preference are tools from Doug Thompson, or D Way tools. You are buying from the guys that make them, and not paying extra for 'signature' brand tools. Tool steel of choice is M42 HSS (D Way), or V10 from Doug. While they do hold an edge 5 times longer, what that means is you can hog off a lot more wood before needing to go back to the grinder, but I still use a fresh edge for finish cuts. It just saves sanding...
@@robohippy I have a old craftsman set and a harbor freight that my wife bought me. I got a Savannah sharpening system for Christmas but I only have a high speed grinder with a crap wheel...I'm getting a new one in about a week especially for my tools. What kind of wheel can I get that I can use on my high speed with the effects of a slow speed...btw, I am watching your sharpening video now.. I don't have a table saw but I know what your going thru
@@williamcarson7519 Your tools are most likely high carbon steel. As for wheels, I think the blue ceramic ones from Norton are probably the better ones. The white aluminum oxide ones work, but usually aren't nearly as good. This kind of depends on budget. High speed grinders work, but you need a very light touch on the tool/wheel/jig. Most people tend to grind rather than sharpen. Your tools might respond fairly well to touching up on a wet stone a few times before going back to the grinder. My favorite wheels are the CBN ones. They are spin and bubble balanced, so no wobble, unless the grinder is out of whack. There is never any risk of them blowing up. They will last a production turner 5 or so years, and most hobby turners close to a life time. Cheapest ones are from Woodturner's Wonders/Ken Rizza, and I get mine from D Way tools.
@@robohippy I am a retired machinist that took up wood turning to keep my sanity. I have the white Norton Aluminum oxide wheel and it wobbles (left to right) no matter how many times I try to true it up. I think injustice need to go get a slow speed grinder. Finances are tight due to being on disability..steps...little by little
@@williamcarson7519 Some times it is the nut on the grinder. They are not machined dead flat and parallel. This can cause wobble. There are 'helical' washer sets, one concave and the other convex so they will be square to the shaft (Ken Rizza has them). If the shaft is short, some times you don't get enough room to mount them. Some times, just rotating the wheel 45 or 90 degrees can take the wobble out. Some times it is just the wheel. Oneway has a balancing set up for that type of wheel, but by the time you get one of those, you might as well get a CBN wheel. If it ain't one thing, then, it's another....