On my car, it says 0-20 on the oil cap. When i use that, the car burns oil. In the manual there are 3 options, 0-20, 0-30 and 5-30. Now i use 5-30 dexos1 gen2. No oil consumption, no problem.
I’m In the oil industry. The thinner oils are for fuel economy only. All of these energy saving oils will not meet European specs for sheer. I run Castrol Edge Euro 0w-40 in my 5.0. Gives solid cold flow and the 40 is on the lighter end of the spectrum and gives you plenty of protection at higher temps. The 5w-20 is a 20 at 212 degrees. If you are working a vehicle hard and the temps are over 212 you no longer have a 20w. I’d always recommend going up a weight. Won’t hurt the engine at all. The lighter oils on the cape and manuals are “recommended “ not “required” for vehicle operation.
I think you summed it up well. Regular cars can run 0w-20 all day long because it's never at sustained high load and cylinder temps. High performance forced induction cars, trucks and tractors tend to need the thicker oil to maintain the film and oil pressure. What tends to kill regular cars is simply neglect, not the oil itself.
Driving 100mph and more, over many hours on german autobahns on w20 during hot summer days? Not the best idea. It might work in the US but not in Europe, where people generaly drive faster on highways
I been running Mobil 1 5w30 for years in my 2003 cobra. I had a mechanic that builds mod motors tell me 20w wasn't thick enough. Makes sense with all the heat.
Excellent illustration of how B.S. CAFE standards altered oil recommendations on these cars, even when the engine design never changed. Ever since i watched a FordTechMakuloco video where he mentioned he uses only synthetic 5W30 in all the 5.4 3V motors he works on i have never gone back to 5w20. I dont baby either of my cars so it gives me peace of mind to know my oil can handle the abuse.
When I had my 5.4 I always used 5w30 conventional or blend and I would top off constantly because it was burning oil somewhere and I would often top off with 10w30 conventional.
I did a ton of research on this, I run 10w30 with mmo in my 2.4l jeep. Calls for 5w20. Great video love oil talk, everyone's got their own flavor and weight... catch can anyone?
MMO will drastically thin out the motor oil while diluting it's carefully blended detergent & anti-wear additives. I'd just use an affordable 10W-30 synthetic like Super Tech in that without additional additives. If you have a cold season that gets freezing, I'd use the 5W-30 for those months. If you want to clean your engine with MMO, I'd wait till nearly the end of the motor oil's life (near a change) and switch out the oil filter only to a cheap one. Get the cheapest one that fits it and fill the oil filter up with the MMO and put it on. Don't drain the old motor oil yet. Use that with the MMO. Then check the dipstick if it could use more and add more if needed. Then run the vehicle around 150 miles and change the oil with a higher quality filter with no MMO.
I agree with your also agree with RIGHTEOUS comment climate is something to consider, I live in Houston/Tx and here the summer is HOT so I do use 5w-30 (not 5w-20) if I was is a place that is really cool (below or at 0) I will go with thinner oil for sure, Also there are Engines that You need to follow the OEM Recommendation because the CHANNEL of the oil (the Lifters in this case and ) in some places of the engine is so small that a Thinner oil is needed for better lubrication an example is the DODGE Challenger with HEMI V8 engine. Thanks for your video.
09 Toyota Prado , book says 5w 30, but now using full synthetic 5w 40, much smoother than 30, and I live in a hot tropical climate in Asia where temps don't dip below 30C/88F, so a bit thicker oil makes more sense.
Thanks. This was the comment I was looking for. My Corolla says to use 0W-20 and I was looking for justification for my thoughts on using 0W-30. Now I got it :) p.s. Also leave in hot country where the annual temperatures are -10 to + 45 C
@@lonniebeal6032 That's the point. In west Africa the daytime temperatures can easily exceed 100°F on any given day. Using anything less than a 40 weight means the car ends up on the scrapheap far sooner than it should.
I dun know why consumers cant tell that these manufacturers are out to scam you to help their gas mileage numbers. 0w20 ? really? why dont they just advise pouring water or methylated spirit as a lubricant.
I have a 2010 Honda Element that calls for 5w20 on the cap but i have only used that twice. Didn't notice any difference in fuel mileage with the 5w30. I looked at what same engine called for in Japan and it listed several weights to use depending on the temp. I normally use Pennzoil Platinum but recently started using Pennzoil Euro changing around 5000 miles. It has 148K on it still running like new with no oil use. The car companies don't want your engine to last for a long time they just want it to get past the warranty then it's all on you
I worked for Pennzoil branded products when they were in Oil City, PA. It was 100% PA Crude back then. These Oils are both 5W oils, The companies add viscosity index improvers to make the oil act as a heaver weight oil when needed. As the engine heat rises, the oils have the same viscosity as a 20 or 30 weight. From what I understand the oil will break down as the heat affects the engine. Change your oil within 5k miles, for extended life of your vehicle. Also Check your oil once a month, you can lose oil without seeing it dripping. Hyundai especially.
An article by a Lube magazine said 30W is optimal viscosity for an engine. Also they said Ford trucks in in North America use 20W, but in Europe, Ford trucks use 30W to comply with factory warranties.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage In some forum. Someone noted that Ford engineers tested 20W oils and found there was 30% increase in engine wear. I guess the white shirts said who cares we don't wanna pay for the CAFE fine, besides they can buy another Ford because they are diehard fans....
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage also some guy on TH-cam did used oil analysis of 5w30 vs 0w30 on his vehicle. Couldn't remember what vehicle. The 0w30 had more wear metals than the 5w30 oil. That was an eye opener. My guess is 0w is too thin to start running an engine under load from a cold engine. 5w is slightly thicker to give it some better protection when running a cold engine under load(like driving off after starting) I know everyone says 0w oil flows faster, but oils have anti wear additives in them already. So when you start the engine, the additives are preventing wear, then you need some cushioning for piston slap hence alittle thicker.
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My Kia Rio manual says to use either 5W-20 or 5W-30. However, if it never goes below freezing (it doesn't here in Arizona), it's ok to use 10W-30.
Good video with good info, i have a 2012 corvette LS3 engine, I’ve always used Royal Purple 5W 20 after warranty expired. Haven’t noticed any difference with the 30 to 20 with my style of driving. I probably baby it more than I let it rip but I do go on 300 to 400 miles trips. MPG is still average 16 city/ 26-27 hwy. I don’t think it’s much of a big noticeable difference in regular driving, at least i haven’t and don’t expect to. Good maintenance and care really helps in whatever oils you decide. Again that’s just what I think if one is just regular driving.
5w50 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2012 Shelby GT500. 5w30 Amsoil Signature Series in my 1996 Toyota Avalon 0w20 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2021 Jeep rubicon 3.6 v6 As of 4/23, I’ve switched from 0w20 to 0w30 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2021 Jeep rubicon. Night and day difference on start up. Super quiet with the 0w30 and less blow by caught in the catch can. Like over 1/2 the amount less from 0w20. My 2018 Raptor gets 5w30 Amsoil signature series and I and hardly tell the engine is running it’s so quiet and smooth.
I've run 5w30 for the entire life of my 06 mustang gt, but i can't help but think we should all still be running 10w30 unless you live in the Northern most points of the globe.
Climate is also something to take into consideration. I ive close to Houston and our summers are brutal hot. I run 5w 30 because of the better protection in the heat. I may get slightly worse fuel mileage,but I feel in the heat the added weight is better in hot conditions than the thinner 20 weight. I might not get as good of a flow rate,but as hot as it gets here in the summer..I believe it's the better choice in the summer months
@@m.hadisoussi732 yeah that’s probably not the time to run the thicker oil if at all. Look up your engine in other markets and see what is specs there. For instance my car is 0w20 USA Canada. In the book it says for everywhere else including Mexico use 5w30 and while I am still hesitant to use 5w30 if I do it will be in the middle of the summer not in the dead of winter.
My everyday driver is a 98' lexus gs400, live in South Florida, I've always run 5w30 as factory recommended, car drives great with almost $230k miles on odometer.
I have a 2016 Yukon XL and i dumped the 0/20 and changed it up to 0/40. I also changed the cap to that that says 0/40 ...with the original 0/20 cap I drilled a hole as big ss the inner diameter of the cap...right thru to be used as my leak proof oil funnel holder during oil changes. I also run 5/40 in my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder V8. CAFE wanted 5/20 in those. I also changed the cap with one that dont have any viscosity printing on them. (Intl spec nissan oil cap) I have never followed CAFE specs. Ive always followed EU oil reccomendations.the only CAFE i follow is the brewed kind. 😉
@pmk4467 pretty much no difference. Then again, it depends on my foot😂.... i did also program the trans to shift firmer as in not prone to hunting gears and holding it longer. From past experience on my 03 suburban .... it runs better and used less fuel compared to stock settings. On my 03, i did also run 5/40 vs 5/30... 😉 . Now when u do switch drivers, like my buddy driving (taking turns on a road trip for example) for fuel is used . Then when i drive, it goes back to usual consumprion. So really, it depends on who the truck is used to... (on the 03, the trans was also flashed). On both, trial and error ... i found the sweet spot. 0/40 or 5/40 have always been my go to grade tho. Seems to be my fave grade oil, and runs great on it. I kept my 03 for 14 yrs ... the 2016 i bought in 2017. No issues🙂 i say around 550 km / 3/4 tank. On 89🤔
do 5w-30, it’ll withstand the heat when you race or all the friction by the supercharger. Even ford knows 5w-30 will make the engine run better in the heat than 5w-20
Definitely answers my question, thank you! Question for anyone to answer... I have a 2009 Mazda CX-9 with 156K miles. I started losing power for pickup, and eventually was getting a metallic chugging sound when I turned corners. I took it three different auto shops and nobody could replicate the problem, or so they said. I kept asking if there were a problem with any of the fluids. All three said no each time. In the end, a fourth shop identified the problem... I only had one quart of oil left in the whole system! In my mind, oil is a fluid, but apparently I am wrong. But now I am worried about damage. It does seem I am burning oil, not leaking it. The good mechanic put 5 W 30, which is why I am here educating myself on the difference. Do any of you think I should go even higher?
No you shound't, if you need need thicker oil it means the some of the seal is not working properly, increasing oil velocity is just a temporary "fix". If you keep increasing the velocity you will end up with some where that thick oil can't "fix" the seal or the oil is too thick to run so it is breaking the engine.
I Have a honda odyssey minivan with a new v6 motor. Cap says 5-20 and ran like a race car on it. Just did a change to 5-30 and it seems to have a resistance in the revs now that make it a lower tone growl and more controlled acceleration. From what I've seen and read I'm guessing there is alot less Sheer ,and less chance of internal wear , and less likely to leak anywhere with the 5-30. But if I was in a race for pink slips I would use the 5-20 for maximum acceleration.
I only use full synthetics when I change my oil, 5w30 or 10w30 in my out of warranty 2016 Turbo. In warranty Sportage has free lifetime oil changes, they use 5w20 Mobile 1 blend, in the winter under 68F I leave it alone, come summer I take a jug of full synthetics 10w30 to them and hope they actually use it. Why does no one who discusses viscosity ever refer to a viscosity chart? And I don't mean the one supplied in the owners manual that they can control.
I run 5w-30 in my 2012 Raptor. 6.2L v8 that sees lots of hard desert off road miles. After 180k miles it runs like a dream and uses no oil between oil changes. Like you said, for normal daily driving 5w-20 would be ok. For hard driving 5W-30 is the better choice. 🙌🏼 im a master mechanic with 25 years of experience BTW
Seeking advice. Should I run my 22 VW GTI with 0W20 or go to 0W30 or even 40 instead? I live in Canada and I like to run my car hard when the conditions permit it (since it's still cold, icy, and snowy where I live). My concern is the recommended 0W/5W20 is too thin for a hot running EA888 2.0T engine. It also warms up real fast in cold climates compared to my 2013 Hyundai Veloster with 1.6 NA or 2003 Ford Focus 2.0 NA engine. It probably has to do with the electronic thermostat unlike the old school style of wax that needs to heat up on Veloster and Focus.
@@W0LV1E45 Since you live in a very cold place, but do push the engine hard Id use 0w-30. The 0w will provide easier starts and good protection and the 30 will work just fine under high load conditions. Thats my honest opinion.
@@jibrilthegreat35 my car manufacturer recommend 0w20 but I live in very hot climate 40 - 45C do I have to change viscosity I run my car between hard and normal it’s a Chevy spark 1.4L NA what’s your suggestion?
@@nawaffidah5018 in very warm weather Id not hesitate to use 5w-30. You will get slight less MPG but your engine will benefit from increased viscosity, which will protect your car in hot weather. 0w oil is ideal for places where the temperature drops very low, and lower viscosity is needed to allow for good oil flow at start up.
I have a 2014 Chrysler 300 with a 5.7 engine has about 80k and it sounds like a sewing machine under load. I was told to use 5w-20 but was wondering if using something different might help reduce the buzzing (sounds dry)
Follow the European standard not the US standard. Europe has far better testing standards to protect the consumer. The u.s. standards revolver around minimizing epa fines.
Thanks I think this answered my question. I have an older 5 20w car with 140k miles. I put 10 30w oil in it this time. I put an add on warranty. I'm wondering if the warranty company would say anything🤷♂️.... I know that's not what you're talking about.
The only way a warranty company could ever find out what weight oil you're using is if you tell them or get it done at an oil change business who might make their data available to carfax.
I can only speak for myself. I've been mixed 10w30 with 5w30 and 5w20.. Just to see it would damage my motor. My ford f150 has 252000 miles and still run strong
Nice strategy! Trick the engine so it doesn't know what to think. It can't lock up in winter, or burn oil in summer, and also gets the Goldilocks weight!
I bought a new 14 Silverado witht the v-6 which takes 5w 30 while the v-8's take 5w 20. The v'8's have had tons of lifter failures while the v-6's not so much.
I know all to well of the failures unfortunately. I believe many come from their extended oil change interval as well, but mine lost a regular lifter from it just being cheap material. Yukon / Tahoe / Suburban / Escalade Owner’s manual Bells & whistles th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi7J7EQ1ErTn1Yzi6ET_3Ssr.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I wonder if GM has outsourced their lifters and got some bad batches as well as some good ones. I know it's a poor design and the return on better fuel mileage is a lie.
Use recommended 5w-20 Mobile 1 synthetic in my Crown Vic Police Interceptor. Has 205k been using that since 102k it absolutely purrs doesn't burn a drop change it every 7500. Should I go to 5w-30. Live in Coastal Calif never got never cold.
It depends on your driving habits. For simply a commuter it will be fine with 5w20. If you are hard on it 5w30 may be a good option, even now since the thicker oil will prevent leaks a little better. It’s entirely your decision
Def depends on bearing clearances and application for built engines… from what I know they go with more clearance,,,, and call for thicker oil. Valvoline VR1. To the the flow to cool bearings down
Haha, I just changed my oil in my 2003 Ford SD 250 5.4l and forgot which weight of oil because it's sratched off the cap. I Googled and it said 5w-30, so I started to put it in and decided to check my manual to see the amount and it said 5w-20! I came here and to my relief it sounds like it's a better oil, plus it's summer too so it doesn't sound like a problem. Thanks for the info y'all.
I have heard that the first number in the oil viscosity rating is the viscosity number for the base oil. Additives allow the final product to function as a 30 weight oil (5W30) when the oil is hot. These additives break down over time with the result that the viscosity does not maintain the performance of the 30 weight oil when hot. So...if you wait too long to change your oil, you are really running straight 5 weight oil when hot. This thin oil will not protect against metal-on-metal contact in the engine when hot. I drive infrequently, but I still change my oil at least once a year. Usually get 3000-5000 miles on a change. So far, no oil related failures.
Manufactures are also telling people to go 10,000 miles between oil changes. I strongly advise not to and my newer Yukon has an oil lift timer. Even changing at 30% I still had a lifter failure. 5w30 means at 5 degrees temperature it will still act as 30 weight.
Ow oils slip off metal. The parts are dry if we park a while. Check dip stick. 5w30 stopped soot in tail pipe! Gas cleaner 2 tanks. Better running and quieter also.
I agree. 5W-20 was fine for my 2002 Ranger V6 that never used much oil, but not for a supercharged V8. My 95 Toyota truck calls for 10W-30. I use 5W-30.
Great video, I have a 2012 GT with a 120,000 . Started its life from 32k with Royal Purple until 80k. Shop didnt carry anymore. So switched to Valvoline Max High Milage Synthetic. May burn a quart to a quart and a half between a 5k oil change. But remember this is still a 5w-20. Non modified motor, not one oil leak, spirited driving, daily driver. These gen 1 motors and Chevy LS motors are bullet proof. Its lost HP by mathematically engine years, however dosent feel like it. Wondering if I will even have to rebuild at 200k. Just FYI on high milage coyote motor .
Just my 2 cents. 150K Tahoe 2003 . I decided recently (last oil change) to try Restore. I must say, did help with compression! Not that I had lost much, a Tahoe LS . But it’s worth a shot. I never go over 4K an oil change either 👍
its not just about topping up the quart....the thinner oil by the fact that it burns off doesnt protect as well as a thick w40 or w50 oil which has more zinc.
My 2020 Toyota Camry takes 0w16 , noisey engine and when accellerating the same . Switched to 0w20 quieter and also when accelerating . Now , I switched to 5w30 and no noise at idle or when accelerating , very smooth running . Noise=Friction=Wear
@@lonniebeal6032 these engines should run between 180 and 210 degrees regardless of climate once at temp because that's where the thermostat regulates (unless you're in the depths of Siberia/canada but then what the hell do you have a mustang for?)
I wanna run 5w30 in my 09 gt mustang i live in New Mexico where it’s hot I was wondering if the cam phasers need thinner oil like 5w 20 or if 5w 30 is fine
My volvo xc70 2.4D needs normally 0w30 I use Kroon Helar 0w40. (Full synthetic) I live in Europa but drive few times a year to Siberië. My automatic transmission i use Kroon sp matic 4026 In my diff's and transfercase i use Kroon gearlube racing 75w140 ( full synthetic) because i drive continue with a 3000kg and a high trailer. In my haldex i use Kroon sp fluid 6033.
It's always fun to hear and read what people say about oils. I would say that most people have at least some truth to what they say about the oils that they use. Me? I'm still just learning, so thank you to the other commenters.
Thanks for the video. I bought a new Hyundai Elantra in 2018. I change the oil every 4k. I use a Mobil 1 filter and synthetic oil. Yah, I'm throwing my money away, I should go another 2k. Anyway. The oil cap says 5w20. The manual has 5w20 and 5w30 listed in the same temp range, and 10w30 when it's warmer...i have 56k on the car and have always used 5w20. Last oil change I changed over to 5w30. This will leave a little more film on the moving parts and add a little more protection when the engine is hot. Heat is what ultimately kills engines, unless it's a chrysler, then it's just junk. Sorry for adding that. I was so burned by them in the past I never got over it...
Look at your manual, that 5w20 is from our corrupt government wanting more mpg at the expense of your engine. And my past Dodges were great, but that was in the 80's and 90's. www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
Those engines literally were made and tested with quaker state oil 5w20 in winter and 5w 30 in summer just make sure they API SP or API SN or the older but the same qualification API SL or API SJ I hope that help peace ✌
@clydeespinosa6286 I'm at 143k now. Most reliable car I've ever owned. I change the synthetic oil every 3-4k. 5w30. Add a little in between changes, good to go. I'd recommend changing the PCV valve at some point. It takes 1 minute, and I did it myself, which says a lot. Car accelerated much smoother after I changed it...although I only changed 2 weeks ago...
Look at the reviews on Tribotex it's a nano lubricant that coats friction surfaces with a 'diamond lattice' a rally driver reviewed it and said he broke an oil pan and drove the car 30 miles without oil after Tribotex with no damage. I used it and the car runs smoother seems to pick up faster as well. If you're in central AZ you need all the help you can get for engine friction and after Tribotex you'd be primed to run a heavier oil without fear. I would recommend you use a good decarbonizer with the engine oil first like CRF 505 that'll give the Tribotex a clean canvass. I did all of this and my car burns half the amount of oil now.
0w20 protects just as much as 5w30, but that lower HTHS thinner oil relies more heavily on its additives rather than viscosity index to offer the same protection at extremes. This means it is less forgiving if prolong high rpm, heavy towing , and prolonged oil changes on 0w20 when all additives have worn out and now more severely damaged engine vs same scenario if slightly thicker 5w30. I’ve done more major engine repairs for abused 0w20 Toyotas vs 5w30 with all things being equal on average throughout my 12yrs.
Nope, no viscosity chart agrees with your first sentence once you are over 68F which is where 0w20 protection starts to fail. Only full on racing oils will have increased anti-wear additives. You all know that 0 is what water flows at right? That 5w20 is listed in most owners manuals for fuel economy, here is a prime example, read the first note below the falsified viscosity chart. I will run 5w20 during winter months only, then 5w30 or 10w30. It rarely gets above 105F in my area. www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
@@lonniebeal6032 Nope, no HTHS in oil analysis agrees with you. you're also saying the engineers are dumb and 0w20 is immediately always useless when a car is started. you're also saying my 2014 Tundra with 212K miles with exclusively only 0W20 since day 1 doesn't exist. Nope, you are wrong.
I tried to explain this to my local Mobil 1 oil change facility owner but he would not listen to me. He lost my business as a result. How do you keep your engine compartment so clean?
what about in a 2014 mustang gt coyote with 52k miles? on the cap it says 5w20 and that's what i have ran the past 3 oil changes. the car isn't raced just a few pulls here and there.
Thank you. I was under my 2008 P71 Crown Vic yesterday changing the oil. I put in 5/30, and then I had second thoughts when I saw the 5/20 on the cap. Should I dump the 5/30 and start all over again with 5/20? Will the 5/30 trash my engine?
The crown Vic is the exact same engine as the mustang GT other than oil pan, valve covers, etc. I run 5w30 in my GT and all my new edge mustangs and it’s perfectly fine, but that’s my opinion, so do as you would like.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I have a 2007 FORD 500 and the dealership has been putting in the oil since we got it used. It says 5w20 but they have been putting in 5w30. It has a lot of leaks. Could that have caused it?
My wife has 2017 Ford Fusion with the base 4 cylinder 2.5 liter (not turbo-chaged) engine. 5w-20 is recommended per owner manual, but thinking I should switch to 5w-30 especially now as that vehicle has 110k miles on it. Any opinions?
I drive a 2008 Fusion, 2.3L 4-cylinder, non-turbo. Faithfully changing Sunoco FULL SYNTHETIC 5W20 every 5,000 miles (manual recommends every 7k, but my mechanic strongly suggested changing it every 5k), my Fusion now has 195,000 miles, still runs like a top and I've only had to change the valve cover gasket (twice).
We are supposed to use 0w-20 in a late model 5.3 Silverado, I add one quart of 5w-30 and 7 quarts of 0w-20, makes me feel better on the freeway doing 70 mph.
Yeah, as I said, I kept with 0w20 for my Yukon being it has the displacement on demand but it still lost a lifter. Would 5w30 have helped? Very possible th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5DX7Dm1d7hd7aeRZ
I always ran 5w-30 in every new edge mustang I’ve ever owned. I figured it’s a car I’m going to run hard and I want an oil that’s going to hold up to heat.
As soon as I..I see the lucas spinning gears ok. But Have you actually put a half quart Lucas into the motor my temp stay around 3/8 of the meter using Castrol 5w30 /10w30 mix lol 😄
As far as I can tell every time my dad would use pennzoil or Castrol in his van. I noticed Castrol Gtx 5w-20 WAS very good and got 23 mpg like when he first bought the honda. Then I see a jug of pennzoil 5w-30 no 5w20 2004? He didn't even put all of it ? Wtf ..no wonder coming out if a right turn provly way from the oil pickup after the filter It sounded rough for 3 seconds. Worse is he got 5w-20 pennz on sale when 5 quart Gtx 5w-20 sm /sn and 0.5 quart Lucas was the shiz (23 town /30 highway) water was halfway I stead of below with therm stuck open
So I have a 2015 Legacy and it calls for 0W-20 but it burns a little bit of oil. Maybe a quart in the 5K between oil changes. Can I safely switch to 5W-20
People keep saying the car manufacturer must know what they are doing. Yes, to serve their interests! Your interests are different! I change my own oil and I always buy my oil when it is on sale. In October, I change my oil using 5W-20. In May, I change my oil using 5W-30. This guarantees my motor will last a very long time. Since I change it twice a year, it doesn't really matter whether I use conventional or synthetic. Learn to change your own oil and do it twice a year. Do your own research and figure out what works best for your motor. No matter what, change your oil every 5000 miles! Oil gets dirty and full of acids and moisture and the additives wear out. Fresh oil always works best!
Oh, the manufacturer. The ones that remove the transmission fluid dipstick and tell us it's a lifetime fluid? Yeah, don't believe Ford, or Boeing for that matter.
That's how you blow oil pumps... there is literally no reason to run straight weights in the modern day unless it's a hydraulic system that specifically requires it.
I got a question. I have a 2011 sonata 2.0T, it went for 75 K service never loses oil when I got the car home and checked the statement it showed 5 Qts of 5W20 the cap clearly shows 5W30, why would they do that ? It's September .
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks for quick reply, I checked the owner manual and that oil is for the 2.4 engine; the turbo is 5W-30 or 5W-40. I think I'll call them Monday.
Know it's late, but, our corrupt government mandates the 0w20 for .5 mpg more, they don't care about your motor burning out in the summer months. Look at a vicosity chart, 5w20 is fine under roughly 70f, demand the 5w30 in the summer months. This summer my 2016 Tucson Turbo will be getting 15w40 with 26 OZ of Marvel Mystery Oil.
That’s kind of what I was saying in the beginning how on my newer cars I run what’s recommended, but it hasn’t changed to my knowledge on the older mustangs when they did the change. Some people run 50 weight and I wouldn’t go that far for clearance issues but going to 30 weight should be fine
The manufacturers don't care so much about longevity, as long at an engine lasts through the warrantee period (typically 36,000 these days) they are happy. On most vehicles, the oil weight called for in other countries, Australia for example, is heavier oil. That means that the engine will handle a 30 weight oil with no problem at all.
I’m in Massachusetts. Very cold and very hot. I have a 2020 civic si. It takes 0w20. I notice during the day the engine runs different comparing to when it’s chilly outside at night. Is it ok if I switch to 5w30. A lot of people told me to do that.
Just came across this video. While I agree with the oil choice, 10w60 does not cause rod bearing failure in BMW M3. The 10w60 was developed to reduce bearing failure. I run 5w30 in my X5 and Jeep. 15w50 in my M Roadster. In the summer I’ll run 5w40 in the X5
According to what I saw, it is creating the bearing failure upon cold start up each time as the oil is too thick to get into the bearing clearance until it’s warm
I have a 2018 2500 5.7 L hemi in my dodge. People are saying lifter failure and cam shaft failure are caused by the 20 weight oil. I’m always hauling heavy roofing materials up the mountain and doing mountain driving every day. Should I switch. I’m a roofer not a mechanic in a small mountain community trying to figure this all out. Thank you in advance.
I can’t give you official advice, but I have the same thing with my Yukon. Just replaced the lifters because one went bad and I feel it’s also the 20 weight oil. I am reluctant to run higher weight since the newer vehicles have been designed for it more, and I was worried to compromise the variable pressure oil pump and the cylinder deactivation (oil pressure controlled) so I am still not sure. I know the failure I had was under 0w20 as it called for.
I´v seen several videos on the 0w-20s and 0w16s and not one has asked if there is a loose of Power! If the oil thins out too much the cylinders will loose compression! It seems to me the auto manufactuers preasured by the enviormentalist have thrown the Viscosity Charts out the window saying "Viscosity Science No Longer Maters"! Time will tell if the 20 weight oils will hold up or if we see a generation of blown engins.
Using 5w20 I lose oil in my 2004 Ranger 2.3 4cylinder. From oil change to when I want to change it again I find I'm losing more than half a quart. I'm thinking of changing it again now using 10w30 full synthetic. Is this a bad idea?
It should be fine as long as its not real cold where you are .....10w30 is typically good down to 0 degrees F......you could use 5w30.10w30 is a good stable oil though...it has less VI improvers and usually better NOACK numbers.Synthetic will flow in cold weather better than conventional also.
I run 5W30 in my '06 Avalon, '07 Tacoma and my '96 Mustang GT. The owners manuals all say so. I live at 7000 ft, it gets cold in the winter, sometimes 0 or below and we get snow. But the summers can be in the 90's and if I go down the hill to Phoenix...well you know. Funny though, because when I search for what oil for the Mustang I get 5W20 as a result. My owner's manual was correct in 1996; it still is.
I'm in Northwest Georgia. I use Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20 in my 2014 Mustang GT (63k miles) and 2012 Expedition (46k miles). I know the 5.4s can have issues if not maintained properly, so should I continue to use what I'm using or switch to 5w30?
Was w/ U all tha way Broski, from when u snappd the bolt, till u extracted it!! So Fu*k evry Troll’n “Know-it-all” Kook’s negative comment u come across, bc they didnt knw how 2do it @sum point n their lives either. U learn by doing, sometimes mistakes r made, sometimes not, but nxt time U’ll b that much better @it..Glad u stuck n thru whole Vid, Proud of U🤙🏾
On these older engines I think it’s ok to deviate from the recommended weight but with newer engines that have hydraulically controlled internals like phasers it could have adverse affects.
Why? That viscosity of 5 is the same either way, 5w20, or 5w30, it's still 5. Use the owners manual made by the manufacturer for approved oil viscosity, online chart for what temps. www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
@@lonniebeal6032 so the 5 is COLD weight only, the 20 or the 30 are hot weights. Also the 2021 mustang gt gets 5w-30 in mexico still so ion see what the problem is.
5W-30 made my Ford EcoSport 2.0 AWD get 2 more mpg. An INCREASE! The 5W-20 allowed fuel dilution so bad it turned into black gasoline oil as thin as water. Not so with 5W-30. So, for winter it's gonna get more 5W-30, then 10W-30 when warm months hit again here in MI.
For God's sake warm the car up for 5 minutes. Your grandmother is not dying at the local hospital. When I see someone start a car up at 15 or 20 degrees and immediately drive off it makes my spine shudder.
On my car, it says 0-20 on the oil cap. When i use that, the car burns oil. In the manual there are 3 options, 0-20, 0-30 and 5-30. Now i use 5-30 dexos1 gen2. No oil consumption, no problem.
I’m In the oil industry. The thinner oils are for fuel economy only. All of these energy saving oils will not meet European specs for sheer. I run Castrol Edge Euro 0w-40 in my 5.0. Gives solid cold flow and the 40 is on the lighter end of the spectrum and gives you plenty of protection at higher temps. The 5w-20 is a 20 at 212 degrees. If you are working a vehicle hard and the temps are over 212 you no longer have a 20w. I’d always recommend going up a weight. Won’t hurt the engine at all. The lighter oils on the cape and manuals are “recommended “ not “required” for vehicle operation.
Agreed.
But drivers complain about fuel consumption and expensive fuel prices.
@@FeelFree3 you won’t see any change in your daily driving. Results are from lab testing. Not real world.
What about the cam phasers that run on oil pressure? Would this not cause issues?
@@matthewpeterson4305 no issues at all.
I think you summed it up well. Regular cars can run 0w-20 all day long because it's never at sustained high load and cylinder temps. High performance forced induction cars, trucks and tractors tend to need the thicker oil to maintain the film and oil pressure. What tends to kill regular cars is simply neglect, not the oil itself.
Driving 100mph and more, over many hours on german autobahns on w20 during hot summer days? Not the best idea. It might work in the US but not in Europe, where people generaly drive faster on highways
I been running Mobil 1 5w30 for years in my 2003 cobra. I had a mechanic that builds mod motors tell me 20w wasn't thick enough. Makes sense with all the heat.
Protection over fuel economy. The decision shouldn't be too difficult.
What is your choice then?
Protection + fuel economy due to a robust strong oil
@@rstuff1605 Thanks!
So?
I’m glad you made this vid as I too wondered about using 5w30 instead of 5w20
Did you switch to 5w30?
@@harkanwaljeetsingh1019 👍🏼 yes
Excellent illustration of how B.S. CAFE standards altered oil recommendations on these cars, even when the engine design never changed. Ever since i watched a FordTechMakuloco video where he mentioned he uses only synthetic 5W30 in all the 5.4 3V motors he works on i have never gone back to 5w20. I dont baby either of my cars so it gives me peace of mind to know my oil can handle the abuse.
When I had my 5.4 I always used 5w30 conventional or blend and I would top off constantly because it was burning oil somewhere and I would often top off with 10w30 conventional.
My 85' Dodge 600 2.2L turbo would burn a qt of full synthetics 5w30 in 3000 miles, it didn't use any oil in 6000 miles with 10w30...
@@k9feces you know those motors specifically requested synthetics, the conventional use probably had something to do with the oil burning.
Bro love this vid. You explained things simply and not with all this other bs about products and sh*t like most of vids ive seen. Ty!
Thanks buddy for the video I just picked up a oil change for my 04 Ford f150 4.6 and I got 5w-30 👌instead of 5w-20.
I did a ton of research on this, I run 10w30 with mmo in my 2.4l jeep. Calls for 5w20. Great video love oil talk, everyone's got their own flavor and weight... catch can anyone?
Run 5w30, you get the benefits of thicker protection when hot and quick flow at cold start
MMO will drastically thin out the motor oil while diluting it's carefully blended detergent & anti-wear additives. I'd just use an affordable 10W-30 synthetic like Super Tech in that without additional additives. If you have a cold season that gets freezing, I'd use the 5W-30 for those months.
If you want to clean your engine with MMO, I'd wait till nearly the end of the motor oil's life (near a change) and switch out the oil filter only to a cheap one. Get the cheapest one that fits it and fill the oil filter up with the MMO and put it on. Don't drain the old motor oil yet. Use that with the MMO. Then check the dipstick if it could use more and add more if needed. Then run the vehicle around 150 miles and change the oil with a higher quality filter with no MMO.
I agree with your also agree with RIGHTEOUS comment climate is something to consider, I live in Houston/Tx and here the summer is HOT so I do use 5w-30 (not 5w-20) if I was is a place that is really cool (below or at 0) I will go with thinner oil for sure, Also there are Engines that You need to follow the OEM Recommendation because the CHANNEL of the oil (the Lifters in this case and ) in some places of the engine is so small that a Thinner oil is needed for better lubrication an example is the DODGE Challenger with HEMI V8 engine. Thanks for your video.
09 Toyota Prado , book says 5w 30, but now using full synthetic 5w 40, much smoother than 30, and I live in a hot tropical climate in Asia where temps don't dip below 30C/88F, so a bit thicker oil makes more sense.
That W30 is good to about 100F, but nothing wrong with the W40 .
Thanks. This was the comment I was looking for. My Corolla says to use 0W-20 and I was looking for justification for my thoughts on using 0W-30. Now I got it :) p.s. Also leave in hot country where the annual temperatures are -10 to + 45 C
@@lonniebeal6032 That's the point. In west Africa the daytime temperatures can easily exceed 100°F on any given day. Using anything less than a 40 weight means the car ends up on the scrapheap far sooner than it should.
If you have high mileage like over one hundred thousand miles you can go up in viscosity. Instead of 5/20 go 5/30.
Great video. I've heard Ford Mechanics say to run 5/30 and not the Ford recommended 5/20 because of Cam phaser issues that the thinner oil causes.
I dun know why consumers cant tell that these manufacturers are out to scam you to help their gas mileage numbers. 0w20 ? really? why dont they just advise pouring water or methylated spirit as a lubricant.
I have a 2010 Honda Element that calls for 5w20 on the cap but i have only used that twice. Didn't notice any difference in fuel mileage with the 5w30. I looked at what same engine called for in Japan and it listed several weights to use depending on the temp. I normally use Pennzoil Platinum but recently started using Pennzoil Euro changing around 5000 miles. It has 148K on it still running like new with no oil use. The car companies don't want your engine to last for a long time they just want it to get past the warranty then it's all on you
I worked for Pennzoil branded products when they were in Oil City, PA. It was 100% PA Crude back then. These Oils are both 5W oils, The companies add viscosity index improvers to make the oil act as a heaver weight oil when needed. As the engine heat rises, the oils have the same viscosity as a 20 or 30 weight. From what I understand the oil will break down as the heat affects the engine. Change your oil within 5k miles, for extended life of your vehicle. Also Check your oil once a month, you can lose oil without seeing it dripping. Hyundai especially.
An article by a Lube magazine said 30W is optimal viscosity for an engine. Also they said Ford trucks in in North America use 20W, but in Europe, Ford trucks use 30W to comply with factory warranties.
30 it is!
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage In some forum. Someone noted that Ford engineers tested 20W oils and found there was 30% increase in engine wear. I guess the white shirts said who cares we don't wanna pay for the CAFE fine, besides they can buy another Ford because they are diehard fans....
@@stevel1475 That's because there is a viscosity failure over 68F with the w20's.
There are no Ford trucks in Europe, except very few Ranges
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage also some guy on TH-cam did used oil analysis of 5w30 vs 0w30 on his vehicle. Couldn't remember what vehicle. The 0w30 had more wear metals than the 5w30 oil. That was an eye opener. My guess is 0w is too thin to start running an engine under load from a cold engine. 5w is slightly thicker to give it some better protection when running a cold engine under load(like driving off after starting) I know everyone says 0w oil flows faster, but oils have anti wear additives in them already. So when you start the engine, the additives are preventing wear, then you need some cushioning for piston slap hence alittle thicker.
My Kia Rio manual says to use either 5W-20 or 5W-30. However, if it never goes below freezing (it doesn't here in Arizona), it's ok to use 10W-30.
A newer video has popped up. It showed 0W20 had more metal particles in it than 5W30 after both were run hard in a high HP engine.
Good video with good info, i have a 2012 corvette LS3 engine, I’ve always used Royal Purple 5W 20 after warranty expired. Haven’t noticed any difference with the 30 to 20 with my style of driving. I probably baby it more than I let it rip but I do go on 300 to 400 miles trips. MPG is still average 16 city/ 26-27 hwy. I don’t think it’s much of a big noticeable difference in regular driving, at least i haven’t and don’t expect to. Good maintenance and care really helps in whatever oils you decide. Again that’s just what I think if one is just regular driving.
5w50 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2012 Shelby GT500.
5w30 Amsoil Signature Series in my 1996 Toyota Avalon
0w20 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2021 Jeep rubicon 3.6 v6
As of 4/23, I’ve switched from 0w20 to 0w30 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2021 Jeep rubicon. Night and day difference on start up. Super quiet with the 0w30 and less blow by caught in the catch can. Like over 1/2 the amount less from 0w20.
My 2018 Raptor gets 5w30 Amsoil signature series and I and hardly tell the engine is running it’s so quiet and smooth.
Rock on man, 30k changes in my 96 gt on amsoil 0w-30, 600k and going strong! (Got it at 40k)
Perfectt
I've run 5w30 for the entire life of my 06 mustang gt, but i can't help but think we should all still be running 10w30 unless you live in the Northern most points of the globe.
Climate is also something to take into consideration. I ive close to Houston and our summers are brutal hot. I run 5w 30 because of the better protection in the heat. I may get slightly worse fuel mileage,but I feel in the heat the added weight is better in hot conditions than the thinner 20 weight. I might not get as good of a flow rate,but as hot as it gets here in the summer..I believe it's the better choice in the summer months
I used 5w30 instead 5w20 and the car couldn't run in the cold weather (-20 degree-Celcius).
I live in Arizona where the summers are even more brutal. 5w-30 is clearly a better choice.
@@m.hadisoussi732 yeah that’s probably not the time to run the thicker oil if at all. Look up your engine in other markets and see what is specs there. For instance my car is 0w20 USA Canada. In the book it says for everywhere else including Mexico use 5w30 and while I am still hesitant to use 5w30 if I do it will be in the middle of the summer not in the dead of winter.
H-Town
Bingo, I live in Midland, and the hot, dry summers are very hard on engines and batteries, as well as all of us working in the patch.
Great video and explanation, as a non car guy you teach me with a simple way a lot!
Thanks!!
My everyday driver is a 98' lexus gs400, live in South Florida, I've always run 5w30 as factory recommended, car drives great with almost $230k miles on odometer.
Wow, $230,000 on that odometer. Never seen it like that in dollars.
I have a 2016 Yukon XL and i dumped the 0/20 and changed it up to 0/40. I also changed the cap to that that says 0/40 ...with the original 0/20 cap I drilled a hole as big ss the inner diameter of the cap...right thru to be used as my leak proof oil funnel holder during oil changes. I also run 5/40 in my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder V8. CAFE wanted 5/20 in those. I also changed the cap with one that dont have any viscosity printing on them. (Intl spec nissan oil cap) I have never followed CAFE specs. Ive always followed EU oil reccomendations.the only CAFE i follow is the brewed kind. 😉
That's smart I only learned about how much better european specs were recently a few weeks ago.
What kind of fuel economy are you seeing in your Yukon with 0w-40?
@pmk4467 pretty much no difference. Then again, it depends on my foot😂.... i did also program the trans to shift firmer as in not prone to hunting gears and holding it longer. From past experience on my 03 suburban .... it runs better and used less fuel compared to stock settings. On my 03, i did also run 5/40 vs 5/30... 😉 . Now when u do switch drivers, like my buddy driving (taking turns on a road trip for example) for fuel is used . Then when i drive, it goes back to usual consumprion. So really, it depends on who the truck is used to... (on the 03, the trans was also flashed). On both, trial and error ... i found the sweet spot. 0/40 or 5/40 have always been my go to grade tho. Seems to be my fave grade oil, and runs great on it. I kept my 03 for 14 yrs ... the 2016 i bought in 2017. No issues🙂 i say around 550 km / 3/4 tank. On 89🤔
@@jason200912 i figure too, if its suggested for the corvette to use 0/40, why not the trucks 😆. Ive used Motul, Liquimolly, Shell T6 all good.
I'm not sure which weight between the 20 and 30 are currently in the Cobra when I got but when I do the first oil change I'm going to run 5W30
do 5w-30, it’ll withstand the heat when you race or all the friction by the supercharger. Even ford knows 5w-30 will make the engine run better in the heat than 5w-20
@@StBeter-tc2te I don’t race it but I put in 30 this spring
@@Lethal_Venom 👍 nice, i love a not beaten Cobra. Nice termi brotha
@@StBeter-tc2te Thank you sir
I run synthetic 5w30 in my 98GT. I store it 11/1-4/1 though too. No winter driving
Finally someone who knows what their talking about. 5w30 minimum people
Definitely answers my question, thank you!
Question for anyone to answer... I have a 2009 Mazda CX-9 with 156K miles. I started losing power for pickup, and eventually was getting a metallic chugging sound when I turned corners. I took it three different auto shops and nobody could replicate the problem, or so they said. I kept asking if there were a problem with any of the fluids. All three said no each time. In the end, a fourth shop identified the problem... I only had one quart of oil left in the whole system! In my mind, oil is a fluid, but apparently I am wrong. But now I am worried about damage. It does seem I am burning oil, not leaking it. The good mechanic put 5 W 30, which is why I am here educating myself on the difference. Do any of you think I should go even higher?
No you shound't, if you need need thicker oil it means the some of the seal is not working properly, increasing oil velocity is just a temporary "fix". If you keep increasing the velocity you will end up with some where that thick oil can't "fix" the seal or the oil is too thick to run so it is breaking the engine.
Great video. i put mobil 1 5/30 in my 2006 gt today. What a difference runs noticeably smoother and quiter never going back .
I Have a honda odyssey minivan with a new v6 motor. Cap says 5-20 and ran like a race car on it. Just did a change to 5-30 and it seems to have a resistance in the revs now that make it a lower tone growl and more controlled acceleration. From what I've seen and read I'm guessing there is alot less Sheer ,and less chance of internal wear , and less likely to leak anywhere with the 5-30. But if I was in a race for pink slips I would use the 5-20 for maximum acceleration.
Thx for simplifying it buddy, that was a good video. Saved. Liked.
I only use full synthetics when I change my oil, 5w30 or 10w30 in my out of warranty 2016 Turbo. In warranty Sportage has free lifetime oil changes, they use 5w20 Mobile 1 blend, in the winter under 68F I leave it alone, come summer I take a jug of full synthetics 10w30 to them and hope they actually use it. Why does no one who discusses viscosity ever refer to a viscosity chart? And I don't mean the one supplied in the owners manual that they can control.
I run 5w-30 in my 2012 Raptor. 6.2L v8 that sees lots of hard desert off road miles. After 180k miles it runs like a dream and uses no oil between oil changes.
Like you said, for normal daily driving 5w-20 would be ok. For hard driving 5W-30 is the better choice. 🙌🏼 im a master mechanic with 25 years of experience BTW
Seeking advice. Should I run my 22 VW GTI with 0W20 or go to 0W30 or even 40 instead? I live in Canada and I like to run my car hard when the conditions permit it (since it's still cold, icy, and snowy where I live). My concern is the recommended 0W/5W20 is too thin for a hot running EA888 2.0T engine. It also warms up real fast in cold climates compared to my 2013 Hyundai Veloster with 1.6 NA or 2003 Ford Focus 2.0 NA engine. It probably has to do with the electronic thermostat unlike the old school style of wax that needs to heat up on Veloster and Focus.
@@W0LV1E45 Since you live in a very cold place, but do push the engine hard Id use 0w-30.
The 0w will provide easier starts and good protection and the 30 will work just fine under high load conditions.
Thats my honest opinion.
@@jibrilthegreat35 my car manufacturer recommend 0w20 but I live in very hot climate 40 - 45C do I have to change viscosity I run my car between hard and normal it’s a Chevy spark 1.4L NA what’s your suggestion?
@@nawaffidah5018 in very warm weather Id not hesitate to use 5w-30.
You will get slight less MPG but your engine will benefit from increased viscosity, which will protect your car in hot weather.
0w oil is ideal for places where the temperature drops very low, and lower viscosity is needed to allow for good oil flow at start up.
I have a 2014 Chrysler 300 with a 5.7 engine has about 80k and it sounds like a sewing machine under load. I was told to use 5w-20 but was wondering if using something different might help reduce the buzzing (sounds dry)
My brother has a 03 Lincoln town car Cartier L w/140k should he switch to 5w30 instead of 5w20 ???
Nice description. I use Castrol 10w60 in my 392 MOPAR. it loves it. Warm here in SOCal
Does the owners manual call for it? a 20w50 is good to 113F does it really get that hot often?
Who cares. It works. I don't suck Newsoms pe
It loves it? Oh please.
I have a 2006 civic w/257k and the oil cap says 5w20 but with that mileage should I be ok running 5w30 I live in central Tx
Just had a new motor put in my 3v. My mechanic called and told me this today as well! Who would have thought!
Follow the European standard not the US standard. Europe has far better testing standards to protect the consumer. The u.s. standards revolver around minimizing epa fines.
Thanks I think this answered my question. I have an older 5 20w car with 140k miles. I put 10 30w oil in it this time. I put an add on warranty. I'm wondering if the warranty company would say anything🤷♂️.... I know that's not what you're talking about.
The only way a warranty company could ever find out what weight oil you're using is if you tell them or get it done at an oil change business who might make their data available to carfax.
Honey analogy is excellent
I can only speak for myself. I've been mixed 10w30 with 5w30 and 5w20.. Just to see it would damage my motor. My ford f150 has 252000 miles and still run strong
Nice strategy! Trick the engine so it doesn't know what to think. It can't lock up in winter, or burn oil in summer, and also gets the Goldilocks weight!
Thank you
@richdouche8253 nope. Just want to see any different in the oil or just some low life make it up to screw consumer
@@ChiNguyen-wf1qt Makes a 7w27 home brew!
I bought a new 14 Silverado witht the v-6 which takes 5w 30 while the v-8's take 5w 20. The v'8's have had tons of lifter failures while the v-6's not so much.
I know all to well of the failures unfortunately. I believe many come from their extended oil change interval as well, but mine lost a regular lifter from it just being cheap material.
Yukon / Tahoe / Suburban / Escalade Owner’s manual Bells & whistles
th-cam.com/play/PLIjr-uSYDZi7J7EQ1ErTn1Yzi6ET_3Ssr.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I wonder if GM has outsourced their lifters and got some bad batches as well as some good ones. I know it's a poor design and the return on better fuel mileage is a lie.
Use recommended 5w-20 Mobile 1 synthetic in my Crown Vic Police Interceptor. Has 205k been using that since 102k it absolutely purrs doesn't burn a drop change it every 7500. Should I go to 5w-30. Live in Coastal Calif never got never cold.
It depends on your driving habits. For simply a commuter it will be fine with 5w20. If you are hard on it 5w30 may be a good option, even now since the thicker oil will prevent leaks a little better. It’s entirely your decision
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage prevent leaks ? When it's hot or cold ?
@@countryfamilyalways7280 Both. Thicker oil has a harder time seeping through passages like gaskets. Look it up
I don't believe your mileage with 5w20 the life of the car. Use and online viscosity chart.
Def depends on bearing clearances and application for built engines… from what I know they go with more clearance,,,, and call for thicker oil. Valvoline VR1. To the the flow to cool bearings down
Haha, I just changed my oil in my 2003 Ford SD 250 5.4l and forgot which weight of oil because it's sratched off the cap. I Googled and it said 5w-30, so I started to put it in and decided to check my manual to see the amount and it said 5w-20! I came here and to my relief it sounds like it's a better oil, plus it's summer too so it doesn't sound like a problem. Thanks for the info y'all.
I have heard that the first number in the oil viscosity rating is the viscosity number for the base oil. Additives allow the final product to function as a 30 weight oil (5W30) when the oil is hot. These additives break down over time with the result that the viscosity does not maintain the performance of the 30 weight oil when hot. So...if you wait too long to change your oil, you are really running straight 5 weight oil when hot. This thin oil will not protect against metal-on-metal contact in the engine when hot. I drive infrequently, but I still change my oil at least once a year. Usually get 3000-5000 miles on a change. So far, no oil related failures.
Manufactures are also telling people to go 10,000 miles between oil changes. I strongly advise not to and my newer Yukon has an oil lift timer. Even changing at 30% I still had a lifter failure. 5w30 means at 5 degrees temperature it will still act as 30 weight.
Ow oils slip off metal. The parts are dry if we park a while. Check dip stick. 5w30 stopped soot in tail pipe! Gas cleaner 2 tanks. Better running and quieter also.
I agree. 5W-20 was fine for my 2002 Ranger V6 that never used much oil, but not for a supercharged V8. My 95 Toyota truck calls for 10W-30. I use 5W-30.
Great video, I have a 2012 GT with a 120,000 . Started its life from 32k with Royal Purple until 80k. Shop didnt carry anymore. So switched to Valvoline Max High Milage Synthetic. May burn a quart to a quart and a half between a 5k oil change. But remember this is still a 5w-20. Non modified motor, not one oil leak, spirited driving, daily driver. These gen 1 motors and Chevy LS motors are bullet proof. Its lost HP by mathematically engine years, however dosent feel like it. Wondering if I will even have to rebuild at 200k. Just FYI on high milage coyote motor .
Just my 2 cents. 150K Tahoe 2003 . I decided recently (last oil change) to try Restore. I must say, did help with compression! Not that I had lost much, a Tahoe LS . But it’s worth a shot. I never go over 4K an oil change either 👍
its not just about topping up the quart....the thinner oil by the fact that it burns off doesnt protect as well as a thick w40 or w50 oil which has more zinc.
An oil which is suitable for use in Grand Forks, ND during the winter is probably not good for use in Phoenix, AZ in the summer.
My 2020 Toyota Camry takes 0w16 , noisey engine and when accellerating the same . Switched to 0w20 quieter and also when accelerating . Now , I switched to 5w30 and no noise at idle or when accelerating , very smooth running . Noise=Friction=Wear
In the Middle East, the temperature in the summer reaches 45 c , and car companies ask to put oil 5w20 ..
unbelievable
It would but more wear and tear on your engine if the oil is thinner so it makes sense to go thicker
Only really necessary at hotter climates, online viscosity charts not tied to an owners manual.
@@lonniebeal6032 these engines should run between 180 and 210 degrees regardless of climate once at temp because that's where the thermostat regulates (unless you're in the depths of Siberia/canada but then what the hell do you have a mustang for?)
My car calls for 0w20 so that's what I'll use, but I might switch to 5w30 once the engine gets some serious miles on it.
I wanna run 5w30 in my 09 gt mustang i live in New Mexico where it’s hot I was wondering if the cam phasers need thinner oil like 5w 20 or if 5w 30 is fine
My volvo xc70 2.4D needs normally 0w30
I use Kroon Helar 0w40. (Full synthetic)
I live in Europa but drive few times a year to Siberië.
My automatic transmission i use Kroon sp matic 4026
In my diff's and transfercase i use Kroon gearlube racing 75w140 ( full synthetic)
because i drive continue with a 3000kg and a high trailer.
In my haldex i use Kroon sp fluid 6033.
It's always fun to hear and read what people say about oils. I would say that most people have at least some truth to what they say about the oils that they use. Me? I'm still just learning, so thank you to the other commenters.
Thanks for the video.
I bought a new Hyundai Elantra in 2018. I change the oil every 4k. I use a Mobil 1 filter and synthetic oil. Yah, I'm throwing my money away, I should go another 2k. Anyway. The oil cap says 5w20. The manual has 5w20 and 5w30 listed in the same temp range, and 10w30 when it's warmer...i have 56k on the car and have always used 5w20. Last oil change I changed over to 5w30. This will leave a little more film on the moving parts and add a little more protection when the engine is hot. Heat is what ultimately kills engines, unless it's a chrysler, then it's just junk. Sorry for adding that. I was so burned by them in the past I never got over it...
Look at your manual, that 5w20 is from our corrupt government wanting more mpg at the expense of your engine. And my past Dodges were great, but that was in the 80's and 90's.
www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
My 17 Elantra runs way better on 5w30. These engines aren’t that solid anyway and thin oil doesn’t help
Those engines literally were made and tested with quaker state oil 5w20 in winter and 5w 30 in summer just make sure they API SP or API SN or the older but the same qualification API SL or API SJ I hope that help peace ✌
@clydeespinosa6286 I'm at 143k now. Most reliable car I've ever owned. I change the synthetic oil every 3-4k. 5w30. Add a little in between changes, good to go. I'd recommend changing the PCV valve at some point. It takes 1 minute, and I did it myself, which says a lot. Car accelerated much smoother after I changed it...although I only changed 2 weeks ago...
@idiom. yah I change my oil 3-4k. Still going. 143k. Engine is fantastic
Ford says 5w-20 . . . I live in HOT Arizona, should I go with 5w-30 ?? thnx and good vid
Look at the reviews on Tribotex it's a nano lubricant that coats friction surfaces with a 'diamond lattice' a rally driver reviewed it and said he broke an oil pan and drove the car 30 miles without oil after Tribotex with no damage. I used it and the car runs smoother seems to pick up faster as well. If you're in central AZ you need all the help you can get for engine friction and after Tribotex you'd be primed to run a heavier oil without fear. I would recommend you use a good decarbonizer with the engine oil first like CRF 505 that'll give the Tribotex a clean canvass. I did all of this and my car burns half the amount of oil now.
We run 0w-20 with 50k on a Chevy, and they burned oil. It sucks 😕
The oil or the chevy?
0w20 protects just as much as 5w30, but that lower HTHS thinner oil relies more heavily on its additives rather than viscosity index to offer the same protection at extremes. This means it is less forgiving if prolong high rpm, heavy towing , and prolonged oil changes on 0w20 when all additives have worn out and now more severely damaged engine vs same scenario if slightly thicker 5w30. I’ve done more major engine repairs for abused 0w20 Toyotas vs 5w30 with all things being equal on average throughout my 12yrs.
Once the dozen additives in the 0w20 are worn out, you now have water thin canola oil for protection.
Change your damn oil on time.
Nope, no viscosity chart agrees with your first sentence once you are over 68F which is where 0w20 protection starts to fail. Only full on racing oils will have increased anti-wear additives. You all know that 0 is what water flows at right? That 5w20 is listed in most owners manuals for fuel economy, here is a prime example, read the first note below the falsified viscosity chart. I will run 5w20 during winter months only, then 5w30 or 10w30. It rarely gets above 105F in my area.
www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
@@lonniebeal6032 Nope, no HTHS in oil analysis agrees with you. you're also saying the engineers are dumb and 0w20 is immediately always useless when a car is started. you're also saying my 2014 Tundra with 212K miles with exclusively only 0W20 since day 1 doesn't exist. Nope, you are wrong.
I agree with you totally
My 2018 2.4L 4 cylinder Ram Promaster City van recommends 5w20.. but consumes oil. I live in Hot Florida. Okay to use 5w30?
I tried to explain this to my local Mobil 1 oil change facility owner but he would not listen to me. He lost my business as a result. How do you keep your engine compartment so clean?
Only by not putting a lot of miles on it lol. My other cars with 200,000 miles aren’t as pretty
My 2006 Mazda I bought new 5w 20 is 19 years old .2.3 4 banger .use the oil it says to use .to much crap on tube
what about in a 2014 mustang gt coyote with 52k miles? on the cap it says 5w20 and that's what i have ran the past 3 oil changes. the car isn't raced just a few pulls here and there.
Thank you. I was under my 2008 P71 Crown Vic yesterday changing the oil. I put in 5/30, and then I had second thoughts when I saw the 5/20 on the cap. Should I dump the 5/30 and start all over again with 5/20? Will the 5/30 trash my engine?
The crown Vic is the exact same engine as the mustang GT other than oil pan, valve covers, etc. I run 5w30 in my GT and all my new edge mustangs and it’s perfectly fine, but that’s my opinion, so do as you would like.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I have a 2007 FORD 500 and the dealership has been putting in the oil since we got it used. It says 5w20 but they have been putting in 5w30. It has a lot of leaks. Could that have caused it?
completely right. but why run mobil1? just run pennzoil or one of warrens producs, kirkland, supertech....
My wife has 2017 Ford Fusion with the base 4 cylinder 2.5 liter (not turbo-chaged) engine. 5w-20 is recommended per owner manual, but thinking I should switch to 5w-30 especially now as that vehicle has 110k miles on it. Any opinions?
I drive a 2008 Fusion, 2.3L 4-cylinder, non-turbo. Faithfully changing Sunoco FULL SYNTHETIC 5W20 every 5,000 miles (manual recommends every 7k, but my mechanic strongly suggested changing it every 5k), my Fusion now has 195,000 miles, still runs like a top and I've only had to change the valve cover gasket (twice).
I use Mobil1 5W30 with WIX filter in my 2.0L Ford, 3.6L Buick, & 5.2L Dodge! Every 5K miles.
Supercharged or Turbo? I'd go right to a 10w40 or 15w50 M1.
We are supposed to use 0w-20 in a late model 5.3 Silverado, I add one quart of 5w-30 and 7 quarts of 0w-20, makes me feel better on the freeway doing 70 mph.
Yeah, as I said, I kept with 0w20 for my Yukon being it has the displacement on demand but it still lost a lifter. Would 5w30 have helped? Very possible th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5DX7Dm1d7hd7aeRZ
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage At 3900 miles on a 2021 Silverado I lost a couple of lifters and several bent push rods
I have a mitsubishi Grandis 4G69 engine. I use the oil suggested by the manuals 5w30 full synthetic in tropical weather 30 even 38 °C. Any suggest?
I always ran 5w-30 in every new edge mustang I’ve ever owned. I figured it’s a car I’m going to run hard and I want an oil that’s going to hold up to heat.
Cousin Jimmy Farha th-cam.com/video/ASAdkJydBFU/w-d-xo.html
As soon as I..I see the lucas spinning gears ok. But Have you actually put a half quart Lucas into the motor my temp stay around 3/8 of the meter using Castrol 5w30 /10w30 mix lol 😄
As far as I can tell every time my dad would use pennzoil or Castrol in his van. I noticed Castrol Gtx 5w-20 WAS very good and got 23 mpg like when he first bought the honda. Then I see a jug of pennzoil 5w-30 no 5w20 2004? He didn't even put all of it ? Wtf ..no wonder coming out if a right turn provly way from the oil pickup after the filter It sounded rough for 3 seconds. Worse is he got 5w-20 pennz on sale when 5 quart Gtx 5w-20 sm /sn and 0.5 quart Lucas was the shiz (23 town /30 highway) water was halfway I stead of below with therm stuck open
So I have a 2015 Legacy and it calls for 0W-20 but it burns a little bit of oil. Maybe a quart in the 5K between oil changes. Can I safely switch to 5W-20
My crosstrek burnt about the same amount of oil with 0w-20 but when I switched to 5w30 it stopped burning oil
Yo would u run 5w30 in a 2011 honda civic ...? It calls for 5w20....not in a very cold area pretty neutral year round....what do u think?
People keep saying the car manufacturer must know what they are doing. Yes, to serve their interests! Your interests are different! I change my own oil and I always buy my oil when it is on sale. In October, I change my oil using 5W-20. In May, I change my oil using 5W-30. This guarantees my motor will last a very long time. Since I change it twice a year, it doesn't really matter whether I use conventional or synthetic. Learn to change your own oil and do it twice a year. Do your own research and figure out what works best for your motor. No matter what, change your oil every 5000 miles! Oil gets dirty and full of acids and moisture and the additives wear out. Fresh oil always works best!
Oh, the manufacturer. The ones that remove the transmission fluid dipstick and tell us it's a lifetime fluid? Yeah, don't believe Ford, or Boeing for that matter.
how about run half of 20w oil and half of 30w oil , best of both worlds ? I have an 2003 honda accord 2.4 and this works great for me.
That's how you blow oil pumps... there is literally no reason to run straight weights in the modern day unless it's a hydraulic system that specifically requires it.
I don't think that's what he means. He means half 5w20 and half 5w30
Looool best of both worlds 😂😂😂😂
I got a question.
I have a 2011 sonata 2.0T, it went for 75 K service never loses oil when I got the car home and checked the statement it showed 5 Qts of 5W20 the cap clearly shows 5W30, why would they do that ?
It's September .
They probably put it in by mistake. You could have them drain it and replace it if you want, but it shouldn’t hurt anything
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks for quick reply, I checked the owner manual and that oil is for the 2.4 engine; the turbo is 5W-30 or 5W-40.
I think I'll call them Monday.
Know it's late, but, our corrupt government mandates the 0w20 for .5 mpg more, they don't care about your motor burning out in the summer months. Look at a vicosity chart, 5w20 is fine under roughly 70f, demand the 5w30 in the summer months. This summer my 2016 Tucson Turbo will be getting 15w40 with 26 OZ of Marvel Mystery Oil.
@@lonniebeal6032 Corrupt gov't? I mean, have you ever traveled to any countries other than Canada?
I’m sure someone already mentioned this: did the bearing clearances change when the OEMs switched to a 5w20? That’s something to consider.
That’s kind of what I was saying in the beginning how on my newer cars I run what’s recommended, but it hasn’t changed to my knowledge on the older mustangs when they did the change. Some people run 50 weight and I wouldn’t go that far for clearance issues but going to 30 weight should be fine
The manufacturers don't care so much about longevity, as long at an engine lasts through the warrantee period (typically 36,000 these days) they are happy.
On most vehicles, the oil weight called for in other countries, Australia for example, is heavier oil. That means that the engine will handle a 30 weight oil with no problem at all.
Exactly. The oil weight in my 1999 Honda Accord called for 5/30 in the US but in other countries, called for 10/30 for the exact same engine.
@@muziklvr7776 Only real difference is in North America, we get pretty cold winters, hence the 5W.
I’m in Massachusetts. Very cold and very hot. I have a 2020 civic si. It takes 0w20. I notice during the day the engine runs different comparing to when it’s chilly outside at night. Is it ok if I switch to 5w30. A lot of people told me to do that.
I live in the desert (AZ) my Altima 3.5 and I think I usually use 0W-20 but accidentally bought 5W-20. Thoughts?
I put 10w40 in my 1998 Corolla. Runs like a dream.
94 mustang GT/ I run synthetic 5W-30
As defined by the SAE 5w-30 is also a 5w-20 as it exceeds the SAE viscosity test requirements for 5W-200. This equally applies to a 0w-40 or 5w-40.
Just came across this video. While I agree with the oil choice, 10w60 does not cause rod bearing failure in BMW M3. The 10w60 was developed to reduce bearing failure. I run 5w30 in my X5 and Jeep. 15w50 in my M Roadster. In the summer I’ll run 5w40 in the X5
According to what I saw, it is creating the bearing failure upon cold start up each time as the oil is too thick to get into the bearing clearance until it’s warm
I have a 2018 2500 5.7 L hemi in my dodge. People are saying lifter failure and cam shaft failure are caused by the 20 weight oil. I’m always hauling heavy roofing materials up the mountain and doing mountain driving every day. Should I switch. I’m a roofer not a mechanic in a small mountain community trying to figure this all out. Thank you in advance.
I can’t give you official advice, but I have the same thing with my Yukon. Just replaced the lifters because one went bad and I feel it’s also the 20 weight oil. I am reluctant to run higher weight since the newer vehicles have been designed for it more, and I was worried to compromise the variable pressure oil pump and the cylinder deactivation (oil pressure controlled) so I am still not sure. I know the failure I had was under 0w20 as it called for.
I´v seen several videos on the 0w-20s and 0w16s and not one has asked if there is a loose of Power! If the oil thins out too much the cylinders will loose compression! It seems to me the auto manufactuers preasured by the enviormentalist have thrown the Viscosity Charts out the window saying "Viscosity Science No Longer Maters"! Time will tell if the 20 weight oils will hold up or if we see a generation of blown engins.
Using 5w20 I lose oil in my 2004 Ranger 2.3 4cylinder. From oil change to when I want to change it again I find I'm losing more than half a quart. I'm thinking of changing it again now using 10w30 full synthetic. Is this a bad idea?
It should be fine as long as its not real cold where you are .....10w30 is typically good down to 0 degrees F......you could use 5w30.10w30 is a good stable oil though...it has less VI improvers and usually better NOACK numbers.Synthetic will flow in cold weather better than conventional also.
I run 5W30 in my '06 Avalon, '07 Tacoma and my '96 Mustang GT. The owners manuals all say so. I live at 7000 ft, it gets cold in the winter, sometimes 0 or below and we get snow. But the summers can be in the 90's and if I go down the hill to Phoenix...well you know. Funny though, because when I search for what oil for the Mustang I get 5W20 as a result. My owner's manual was correct in 1996; it still is.
I'm in Northwest Georgia. I use Motorcraft synthetic blend 5w20 in my 2014 Mustang GT (63k miles) and 2012 Expedition (46k miles). I know the 5.4s can have issues if not maintained properly, so should I continue to use what I'm using or switch to 5w30?
For newer engines you may want to stay with what is recommended, but change every 3-4k miles rather than how they tell you to do longer intervals.
I work at chevy dealership and that Mobil 1 5w30 is the one we use for c6 c7 Corvette. Best and pricey oil we have
Was w/ U all tha way Broski, from when u snappd the bolt, till u extracted it!! So Fu*k evry Troll’n “Know-it-all” Kook’s negative comment u come across, bc they didnt knw how 2do it @sum point n their lives either. U learn by doing, sometimes mistakes r made, sometimes not, but nxt time U’ll b that much better @it..Glad u stuck n thru whole Vid, Proud of U🤙🏾
Which fuel economy we're talking about, when technically braking pads still trying to brake a car, even if pedal still released
On these older engines I think it’s ok to deviate from the recommended weight but with newer engines that have hydraulically controlled internals like phasers it could have adverse affects.
Why? That viscosity of 5 is the same either way, 5w20, or 5w30, it's still 5. Use the owners manual made by the manufacturer for approved oil viscosity, online chart for what temps.
www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
@@lonniebeal6032 so the 5 is COLD weight only, the 20 or the 30 are hot weights. Also the 2021 mustang gt gets 5w-30 in mexico still so ion see what the problem is.
You're absolutely 💯 right.
My civic calls for 5w 20 should i be using 5w 30
Every car I've owned that said to use 5w-20 ran NOTICEABLY better on 5w-30 and the gas mileage dropped MAYBE 1-2 mpg if that.
Well, 1-2 mpg is a hell of a lot on my 14mpg 2003 F150 4.6L
5W-30 made my Ford EcoSport 2.0 AWD get 2 more mpg. An INCREASE! The 5W-20 allowed fuel dilution so bad it turned into black gasoline oil as thin as water. Not so with 5W-30. So, for winter it's gonna get more 5W-30, then 10W-30 when warm months hit again here in MI.
For God's sake warm the car up for 5 minutes. Your grandmother is not dying at the local hospital. When I see someone start a car up at 15 or 20 degrees and immediately drive off it makes my spine shudder.