A+ SUBARU Front Wheel Bearing replacement -Forester Outback Impreza Legacy Ascent Crosstrek STI WRX
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ค. 2024
- ✅ I GET TO THE POINT FAST! Modern Bolt-In Style Subaru Front Wheel Bearings. Covers Forester, Outback, Impreza, STI, WRX, BRZ, Crosstrek, Ascent, Legacy, and Tribeca. Identicle replacements on all Subarus from roughly 2005 and Newer. Extra tricks included in the video for RUSTED Subarus.
Wheel Bearing Diagnostic Video: • BAD WHEEL BEARING SOUN...
*if I have helped you out-please consider tipping me with the "Thanks" button 😃
Ultimate Subaru wheel bearing removal tool ✅
Hub shocker: • Free Stuck Wheel Beari...
🚀 $29 ASTRO TOOLS "LAST CHANCE" WHEEL BEARING REMOVAL KIT can supplement or replace the Hub Shocker. Probably the ultimate removal tool. I have tested it. It is amazing! Great tool to have in your box! EASILY REMOVES the worst of the worst. Works on Subaru's and Ford Explorer/Ford Edge/Escape/and others. Impossible bearing removal solved without knuckle replacement 😃🔧
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Video ✅
Caliper bracket bolt: amzn.to/2lyutKs
All 4 bolts bolts: amzn.to/2mcOJSb
CV axle nut: amzn.to/2n7QMH6
Timken Bearing: amzn.to/318g1sf
MOOG Bearing: amzn.to/317MUoV
SKF Bearing: amzn.to/303NbHQ
Subbie videos ✅
Front wheel bearing: • A+ SUBARU Front Wheel ...
Rear wheel bearing: • OH BOY! Subaru's Stubb...
Sway Bar Link Sounds: • LOOSE AND BROKEN SWAY ...
Link Replacement: • Video
Bushing Replacement: • SWAY BAR BUSHINGS | ...
Crank bolt removal: • WIZARD TRICK Removal o...
Crank bolt removal: • OLD SCHOOL HOLDING TRI...
Cam bolt removal: • MAGICAL TRICK for Suba...
CV-Axles: • Video
Wheel locks: • Video
Headlamp replacement: • SUBARU Forester Headla...
Code P1507: • Video
Subaru snow plow: • Snowsport + AWD = PLOW...
Fuel Lines: • SUBARU EASY Fuel Line ...
Crank timing gears: • SUBARU Crankshaft Timi...
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knuckle savers: amzn.to/2LnkfGS
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Thanks for being here. Your time is valuable.
~Shaun 🔧
00:00 Removal
04:14 Clean
04:55 Install
05:52 Torque Spec
07:00 Dust Shields
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*_Best Subaru tool for Impossible Rear Wheel Bearings:_* th-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/w-d-xo.html
*_New sway bar link video_* th-cam.com/video/0S8JBe_jn6g/w-d-xo.html
*_Wizard MUST SEE Timing belt trick for Subaru:_* th-cam.com/video/WGZOXrIq2Q8/w-d-xo.html
Very informative video! Good disassembly tips and your editing skills are on point!
Easy Fix
• 1 second ago
*_Thank you! I got my best man working on it :)_*
Thank you Mr. Fix. Short, sweet, and to the point. My tire shop Xthreaded a stud, so I need to pull and find a new stud.
Thank you! That’s a bummer. Happens sometimes. No problem. Have a great day!
you are great straight forward and to the point. no gimmicks thank you i enjoyed your editorial
Thank you! I am so glad you liked it 😃🔧
Great thorough video! I really appreciate all the safety tips, that’s my main concern when doing my own repairs. Keep the videos coming : )
*_Thank you! I've always try to help point those out for you. Thanks for watching!_*
Love the easy way you do things with common tools the average guy would have thanks very much for your diy videos keep up the good work
Thank you! I’m glad the video helped you out. More videos on the way. 😃
Easily the best video I've seen on replacing Subaru wheel bearings. Straight and to the point. Have to replace my front driver's side after just two years again, my Outback seems to go through them like candy. Thanks for this easy, straight-forward video.
Outstanding! No problem very happy to help out. I would try some timken bearings. They are amazing. Here is a link to amazon. Make sure it fits. Just a generic outback bearing. Worth every penny and worth the wait 😃🔧
2009 Outback front: amzn.to/3NsW0XZ
when you cut the wheel did you hear like grumbling noises while pulling out a parking spot cutting wheel all the way?
Yup sometimes bad wheel bearing sound will happen more in direction than the other. I have a diagnostic video that may help 😃
th-cam.com/video/nl7cU2wHBXg/w-d-xo.html
I am so sorry for the delay on my reply! Unless it's a fresh comment I miss these replies to comments a lot because they don't sort to top for me on the app. My apologies!!
You made this look easier than every other video. Thanks man
Awsome! No problem 😀🔧
I recommend using an abrasive wheel on an air tool or cordless drill, such as a nylon one you can source cheaply from harbor freight, it's safe to use on most surfaces and won't damage the metal.
have to comment here, love how you get to the point. good vid!
Awesome! Thank you 😀
Great video! Just completed replacing drivers side bearing on a 2014 Legacy with 110,000 miles. Great tips both the abs sensor driveshaft interface and the brake shield . Mine was rubbing also and checked it before putting it back on the road. Saved me some headache for sure! Replaced with a moog off amazon for less than $90! Dealer did the other side for close to $500!!
Nice job man! I am glad you got the job done and saved a bunch of money. Thank you!
@Jeremy how did the moog bearings hold up after all these years? I've heard good things about from a few people
Awesome. I’ll be using your advice in my next video!
Excellent! Thanks man. 😀
Great video. Very good information. Nice chuckle. I needed that today. 👍
Thanks! Glad to help 😀🔧
Thanks much!! Front right axle hub bearings have been howling for months on my 2010 forester. Took less than an hour total including getting tools and putting them away 👍🏽👍🏽
Nice work! Should be good for a while hopefully. How many miles did your old ones have on them?
@@EasyFixShaun 135,000 ish. Now that the front is quiet, I hear a little buzz coming from one of the backs, I think the left side. Oh, well, been there done that. I’ll hit it again. I’ve seen the videos of the issues with the parking brake, not scared.
🤟🏽😎
Thanks again.
Oof! Sometimes the bad bearings will mask other bearings like yours in the rear. The fronts are usually reasonable repairs on Subbies.. But the rears are excruciating sometimes. Especially if you have any amount of rust. I live in the rust belt and they are all rusted within a year of being new. You might want check out my hub shocker videos for you're rear bearings.. The second video is the best. one to watch. The Hub Shocker is the only tool I use to remove the rear Subbie Bearings. Life saver...... 😃
@EasyFixShaun Link to the video please
Thank you for all the life experiences thumbs up
No Problem! Thanks for watching 😃🔧🔧
Great vid ! Thanks for this post!
No problem 😀
I cannot belive my eyes. Why haven't I come across this chanel a week earlier... My story is that after changing my rear hub my alignment is off. My camber is a fraction on the positive side actually (had it on the alignment machine YESTERDAY). Car has the tendency to push to the right very so slightly, and now that it's slippery out, it also likes to rotate left under hard braking. Wouldn't cross my mind in a million years my hub can contribute to alignment issue. Totally makes sense! I gave it a bit of rub as it wasn't nowhere close as dirty as yours, but apparently I guess I'll have to get it off and make sure it's properly flush clean before tightening my hub back in... Good news is I lubed it liberally, so should be a far easier job now...
TH-cam is trying to keep me a secret haha 😂. Thanks a lot man. I wish you had found me earlier also! Sorry about that. It’s amazing how just a tiny bit of corrosion under the hub can change the alignment. Cleaning them up keeps it where it originally was. Shoot me a like and maybe the next person can find me 😀. Also check out my hub shocker 2.0 video for your next bearing replacement. Life saver for me!
@@EasyFixShaun I certainly will check more of your stuff! Who knows, you're likely going to make me feel stupid without offending again! 😃
Sounds great! Thanks for the nice comment! 😀
This guy has a great method to remove the bearing as long as it does not damage anything. I am a mechanic so I am looking for the best methods of removal and installation. This was a great video. Well explained and well done. Thank you
Glad to help! Thanks a lot 😃🔧🔧
I am an an old school apprentice mechanic and now teach the stuff. I saw him hit the hub with hammer and went nooo disc wobble and brake hammer noooo. And then he put a new hub on and I went ah ok no problem the old hub is scrap anywaay😃. Thank you.
Haha! Ya that would be bad if saving that part 😀🔧
Just did this on a 2011 Forester yesterday. The hardest part was getting the four bearing hub bolts off. The drive shaft head gets in the way of getting sockets in there and the control arm is in the way of the ratchet etc etc. It was a major pain in the backside. Then those bolts are supposed to be set to a specific torque but good luck getting a torque wrench in there. We don't have salt issues here in Australia. Man It causes so much damage!! I used blue locktite on the 4 bolts and regular grease on the spline and bearing face. Getting the old bearing off was just a few light taps with a hammer because again, no salt and rust here.
You are so lucky you don't have salt issues. It is really bad. Every project has its bottle neck. Some have more than one! and I am glad you figured yours out and got it done 😃🔧🔧
I've used 3m silicon grease (stuff I use on brake jobs) to lightly coat some areas such as the splines on the CV axle, it has been relatively successful at discouraging corrosion (I don't live in the rustbelt mind you).
Very nice. Any grease type will always be better than no grease when it comes to corrosion 😃🔧
Great video. Thank You
Glad you liked it! Did you have any problems getting your abs sensor out?
Solid!
Thanks man!
Mac antivibe hammer are my favorite. Best on the market.
I agree. They look good, feel good and work good don’t they?
Nice video. Great cartoon effects!
*_Thanks man! They are kinda dorky aren't they?_*
@@EasyFixShaun not at all, but then again, I'm Dad Jokes age! XD
Thank you
No problem! 😃
Great job I’m gonna tackle this , this weekend
Good luck! If it is a front bearing they are usually pretty straight forward. Compared the rears they so much easier than rears. I hope it goes well for you. If you have to do a rear bearing replacement....check out my hub shocker 2.0 video 😃🔧
th-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/w-d-xo.html
@@EasyFixShaun oh man we did that rear already PITA we got it out broken the sensor too
Your not alone. Those rear bearings are excruciating 🔧
so glad i don't live in the rust belt! nice vid
Thank you! Ya our rust here is on a whole new level unfortunately 😃🔧
Good video. 👍thank you
Thanks! Im glad you liked it 😀🔧
Thanks 🙏
No problem!
Wish the 2000s era Subarus had this system!
me too sometimes 😃
Super!
Thank you! Cheers! 😀
The ABS sensor is very easy to remove. You should take it out to remove any chance damaging it while smacking the hub with the big hammer. Other than that great video.
Thanks you very much. Thank you for the tip! Often when removed the break anyways in the rust belt so i just go for it. Removing is always the better way 😀
Love your videos man. They are concise and informative every time. I’m going to be doing wheel hubs all around on my 2012 forester. Question on the front since I’m replacing cv axles, front pads and rotors and probably brake dust shields at the same time. Any recommendations on order of operations for that and why? Just curious how you would tackle it
Thanks man!! If doing all of those parts in front, start with the inner most part and work your way outwards. That will be the most efficient way to do it typically.
Excellent video. Thank you. Ill be doing the front driver side in my 2018 crosstrek with only 50k miles 😒
That seems a little early for a bearing on a subaru. Sorry to hear that. Use a timken if you can. Should get better results 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun it ended up been the transmission, a new transmission was put on, free of charge.
@@oscarf7292 CVT? That's pretty ridiculous to need a new tranny after 50k miles...
FYI anti-sieze IS grease but also contains additives of non ferrous metal dust to keep steel from galling.
Thanks! Antisieze works good in a lot of locations. On axle splines i typically prefer good ole grease. On wheel bearing hub mounts to knuckle- antisieze seems to work better for me 😀🔧
Clean the knuckle and any other rusted part with a cheap sand blaster and paint those surfaces before reassembly
Not a bad tip 😃
Just replace the wheel bearing on my 09 forester, left front, 206,567 miles
Wow that is excellent mileage! We are on original front wheel bearings also in front with a 2009 forester at 254k miles. Not trying to one up you at all here. I am just blown away they are still good! The rears however have both been replaced a couple times minimum, and they suck to get out the first time 😃🔧
I like that you didn't fool with the strut mount. How did you reach those bolts from the back of the hub? Did you use a wobble socket (universal joint) with a long socket wrench extension?
I think I just used a wobble extension and a socket 😃
ill also be using the smash it with a hammer method
Hammers are always good for smashing things 😃🔧
Any recommendations for changeout interval? I'm thinking 75,000 miles seems reasonable.
After watched your video, I thought I can deal with it. But the first problem I met is the bolt to fasten the brake bracket was broken when I try to loose it. I have to send my outback to garage to take out the broke bolt.
That happens on occasion. I would get a replacement bolt, clean up the hole, coat it with anti-seize and replace the bracket or the bracket and caliper. That is how I typically deal with it. Sorry it didn't work for you.
dang 2003 is different, I was pretty excited to see the whole assembly as a unit...but 05 is somehow different than 03. Anyway, on to more pressing matters..... yea, yea, pun intended !
On-car press in wheel bearing video that doesn't change alignment angles- very pressing matter 😂😃
th-cam.com/video/P5bwlKKpusk/w-d-xo.html
Another great video. Does the 2000 outback have that same bearing cassette? I watched another video and the dude had to use a hydraulic press to put in the bearings.
Thank you man! The 2000 Has a press in style bearing vs the newer style Subaru went to which is a Bolt in style. The press in style is a little different and can be done different ways. Hydraulic Press is one of the ways. I have a video coming out soon on how to do it easily on the vehicle. If you need it now, the tool I use is an ATD 8635 "Press in bearing kit" to get you started. Sorry about the delay in that video. I will be up within 2 weeks.
A michigan channel! Where are you out of?
These are fun to watch as someone from emmet county area. My forester nearing 200k is a PAIN to work on! Good tricks to know.
Cool Chase! Glad I could help! I used to live in emmet county many moons ago. I am still pretty close to you but a little south 😀
Hej man great video, will I need to touch the camber bolts if I'm doing this while only one side is jacked up? Will I be able to push the axel back enough?
Bearing will slide out from the knuckle and the cv-axle shaft once it is dislodged from its rust bond in the knuckle with a few hammer strikes on the bearing, like the video. If you are doing a front bearing, they usually dis-lodge with no big problems with a few hammer strikes. If you are doing a rear wheel bearing you will need a hub shocker. Rear bearings are brutal. I have three removal videos on Subaru rear bearings it if you need it. Two are hub shocker videos. On the front you won't need to touch any alignment bolts on the strut 😃🔧
Like where your head is at, wanting to lube those bolt threads, but gotta disagree on that practice, since it tends to lead to overtorquing them. Tiny, tiny amount of (copper) Anti-Seize will do the trick admirably. Either way, be sure you're using a high-heat grease anywhere near wheels.
grease works fine.
I have done the left side, but I've got every light on the dashboard. I read that with aftermarket hub you have to both sides. Surprisingly the left side axle nut is giving me a difficult time . Half inch impact gun was useless and my breaker bar broke at the head. What is my next best option 3/4 inch or 1 in breaker bar or impact gun. Thank you for providing this video
Hang in there! Anytime I break a 1/2" bar or ratchet I prefer to "cut to the chase" immediately by going to 3/4" equipment 😃🚗
0:36 The number "1.25" is a "thread pitch" (i.e. distance bolt travels per turn, in mm), not a measure of the bolt's "threads per inch".
10-4. Thank you.
thats what thread pitch means. lol
Thanks a lot!
I will be doing it on my backyard with only one wheel lifted.
I don't have that power tool, so can I just take the rim dust cap and unscrew the axle nut just a little, with my wheel still on the ground?
Also I do not own torque wrench, but well, I have to trust my elbow...
If there is room to get at the axle nut to loose it and tighten it that way through the wheel, excellent method 😃
@@EasyFixShaun I DID IT!! It worked!
Thanks for warning about ABS sensor! It's really close!
Outstanding! Nice work😀😀
Video has me questioning now if my dust shield is just rubbing 😂
For sure check that! Its possible. I have seen it a lot on many vehicles. Especially Subbies 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Yeah I have a 96 SVX and this video was absolutely awesome, if my wheel bearing does need changed I'll be back again when I go through it haha
@@RowdyTheLegend Excellent! I appreciate that a lot. Good luck on your project. Hoping for just a shield 🤞😃🔧
Is the front bearing the same as the rear? I have a 2008 forester L.L Bean. I couldn't find a full hub assembly anywhere except for the rear. The assemblies you link in the description say they don't fit my vehicle...not sure what to think.
Front and rear subbie bearings will be slightly different and not compatible. I provided links to get you into amazon, get you started and give you ideas. You will want to search for your year make and model and bearing location. You should find something available with figment verification in amazon. I think 2008 Forester is a press in style bearing. I will check into that in the morning for you 😀🔧
Can you tell me the bolt size for the 4 mounting bolts that hold the hub to the yoke? Thx
I don't know the exact size. I haven't ever measured on and I don't have any lying around. I think they are M12X1.25 or M14X1.25. If you need new ones try Subaru or Dorman replacements from amazon. 🙂
So what does it mean if the axle it completely stationary in the hub cause my axel doesn’t depress and I have removed the sensor. And I’ve been trying for two days to get the hub loose and it still hasn’t moved a millimeter
Your axle is most likely rusted and seized in the wheel bearing wheel hub flange. I usually use a punch bit on an air hammer and hammer the splined shaft towards the transmission about an inch and it comes loose. There should be a round spot on the end of the shaft for a punch bit. A regular hammer and punch bit will work also, but not as good or easily. You want to use a punch with way so you don't damage the threads. Once it is removed I used a small screw driver or pick to clean out the spline grooves and then lubricate the splines with grease. Sorry you are having trouble with that. Rust is the worst 😃🔧
I do not have nuts in back on my forester 2006 3:10
Your 2006 has a pressed in bearing style of bearing. The replacement is different. Here is a video for the rear wheel bearing replacement on your car. th-cam.com/video/CInFJDz11II/w-d-xo.html
Are the front wheel bearings on a crosstrek similar to these?
Yes! They are the same. Good luck with your project. Let me know how it goes!
First time I've seen one of your videos and have to stop and compliment you. You do a great job and need to keep doing this. Not doing wheel bearing hopefully for a while- actually how many miles before I should expect to get before needing to replace them on a 2012 Subaru Tribeca Limited/Touring? Lastly-is there any trick to removing this interior trim part # 66077XA00A on my Tribeca?
Thank you, I am glad you like the videos. I hope to stick around for a long time! I appreciate the encouragement. Making videos is 1000x harder than I thought it would be. I can't see where that part goes. Is it the pull handle on the door? Do you have the new part yet? Can you see what fastens it? Maybe it is glue or a trim clip??
@@EasyFixShaun I gave you the part number so you would know what part it is it's an interior part just a piece of trim on the passenger side above the glove box
Yes I looked that part up and I can not get a very good description or picture of what it is.
I wish the 2004 was as easy🥲
You have press in style. The good news is they typically last longer. I have a press-in bearing replacement video if you need it.
Can you explain why you didn't disconnect from the strut assembly and remove the axle from the hub and "press" the bearing out? This video seems to show a very different approach from every other replacement video I've watched. I have an 07 Impreza 2.5i and need to replace a rear wheel bearing, would this approach work for that as well? (Probably not using the proper terminology for some things, sorry)
*_Hey! Great question. If you do it this way you will not need an alignment after the bearing replacement. This is this best, fastest and most efficient way because you can avoid that whole process. If the knuckle to strut bolts are disturbed in anyway you will need an alignment afterwards. You want that alignment perfect. Even if you mark the bolts and put them back exactly the same, the alignment will always be off. So I would do it this way. It's easy and the press in bearings are the exact same concept. The only difference is you are pressing the bearing in. You don't need a hydraulic press. You just need an "on the vehicle wheel bearing press kit". They are super available and super cheap. Game changer tool. $50-70 bucks on amazon or ebay. They work awesome. Buy the bearing from Subaru and it will last 125-175k miles approximately. Any other bearing- 2/3years max._*
@@EasyFixShaun As you say, it's definitely easier and waaay faster to do it this way.
I still prefer to press my bearings in, so I can grease the bearing properly with quality grease. I find the factory grease is usually why they fail prematurely. My aftermarket bearings packed with quality grease have already outlasted my factory bearings.. I'll probably never have to replace them again.
And as long as you mark those strut control arm bolts you won't upset wheel alignment enough to notice, if you do then it's not a big deal to get an alignment done.
And wow, those salted roads over there cause havoc on vehicles, my Forester is 15years old and the bolts and hubs were easy to remove. No salted roads over in Aus.
Good video for those that don't have the time or a shop press to press in bearings.
Australia! Oh man you guys are so lucky you don’t have rust. Ours is bad because we salt the roads all winter. Rust loves salt. It kinda sucks! I would like to visit your country some day. It’s on my bucket list. :)
I have an 02 Forster is it somewhat similar to this?
Your earlier Forester has press in bearings front and rear. Here is the video you need 🙂th-cam.com/video/CInFJDz11II/w-d-xo.html
You didn’t show disconnecting and replacing the abs sensor?
It was likely rusted in (michigan car) and the small fastener for the sensor often breaks. I decided to leave it alone. As long as the sensor is working and not damaged it is reusable. It is always best to remove for repair if you don't think the fastener will break 😃🔧
I will assume you do a lot of work on Subarus (forgive me if wrong) so here is my question. Recently had my passenger side carpet/floor get flooded from the AC unit. I took to Subaru and they said it was the evaporator core that was bad and it caused the problem. I have one of those extended warranties so I think they were trying to screw over the warranty company. I say that because I took it to place called Jons Auto Air and he said that didn't make sense. He actually added some of that black tar-like "caulking/sealant" around the opening where the AC tubing enters the firewall and I have not had a problem since. Any theories?
The drain tube from the a/c Evaporator in the dash may have been kinked/plugged with debris/or not sealed to the firewall. If there is a leak there and the a/c is used a lot of water will come in. That is the only place to get water from a/c and wouldn't indicate a bad evaporator. The water that collects in the heater box from normal operation just can't get out of the heater box properly. That what it sounds like to me. The aftermarket warranty companies are just as crooked as a crooked mechanic. They cut cost and don't pay the mechanic. Maybe its a case of the mechanic firing back. Who knows. I hope that helps!
How did you get to the 4 bolts for the bearing housing? And what did you use?
I think I used a basic socket or a swivel socket, an extension, and an impact. They cam right out 😃🔧
Sometimes you need to turn the knuckle a little side to side and remove the axle nut, which needs to happen anyways in later step. Once the axle nut is removed the axle can slide inwards towards the transmission a little to allow just enough room to access the bolts. The bolts are a little close to the axle and hard to get a socket on sometimes. But push the axle back 1/2"-1" and access to the mounting bolts can be accomplished no problem. They are tight access no doubt, but totally doable this way 😃🔧
A 90°3/8 ratchet worked best for me
Can you smack on the axle with a dead blow hammer if it's stuck? Cool video. Seems pretty straightforward as long as everything comes off okay
Sure! Worth a shot. Corrosion is always the main problem for me. With that the job is pretty straightforward. Usually when cv-axles are stuck in a wheel bearing, my go-to tool
Is a air hammer with a punch. Seems to be the best way to loosen and move it without damage. A dead blow hammer could work also if its not too bad. Take care to not mess up the threads on the cv axle. Maybe even thread the nut on a bit to save them 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun thanks. I appreciate the reply. My left front is starting to make some noise. 2004 forester with 171,000. Gonna give it a shot.
th-cam.com/video/P5bwlKKpusk/w-d-xo.html
Here is the video that might be helpful. You have press in wheel bearings 😃🔧
th-cam.com/video/nl7cU2wHBXg/w-d-xo.html
Here is a wheel bearing diagnosis video that could be very helpful also.
Yes the rust belt is much more difficult. I had to use an air hammer on one side I have yet to remove the axle nut
So i broke the damn bolt can i drill it and use easy out??
The mount bolt for the hub broke? Man Im sorry that sucks. I don't think I have had that happen on a front Subaru bearing yet. You may have to get creative to get that bolt out. If the bolt broke off clean, and will fit out of the hole-pound out the hub. Then just find a bolt replacement. I think that would be the easiest method if it is an option. I wish you could share a picture on here. Its hard for sure to help with out seeing it.
My 2010 Outback came out of NY and everything is rusted in place. The brake dust shields were have rusted away. Nothing on that car is coming out anywhere close to that easy. I can't beat the front axle out with a 10 pound sledge hammer and the bearings sure as hell aren't coming out even with a 10lb slide hammer bolted to the studs
That sucks! Most of my car issues always involve corrosion complications too. Do you have an air hammer with a punch bit? I usually use that for axles that are corroded into a bearing. If that doesn't work I usually have to use heat which means I will get them apart but sometimes it will ruin more parts. Sorry you are having trouble.
@@EasyFixShaun I do have an air hammer but not the industrial professional mechanic type. I put the nut on the axle flush and layed into it with the sledgehammer. I'll keep soaking it down with penetrating oil and hopefully it will break free eventually
Soaking it may help just enough to get it to move. Especially if you can do it for a few days.
ouch, I just "snapped off" the ABS sensor, just like the author described.. by pushing the axle out of the knuckle, would have been an "easy fix" otherwise
Ouch. Remove the sensors if you can. If you can not remove them because of risk of breaking the faster (corrosion) it’s worth a try to remove the bearing without sensor removal. It’s happened to me also. Sorry it didn’t go perfect for you.
i took my wrx for wheel bearing replacements all four corners. the front 2 had to be re-done because it has some groaning noise at sharp turns. why is that? the hubs were low mileage imported from japan. they had damaged outer race housing, chipped off. probably better off buying a bearing and attachment next time.
Hi I am not sure. Where the parts used Subaru brand bearings?
@@EasyFixShaun no. they were Timken brand
Ok. Usually Timken bearings are excellent choices. I am not sure what the cause of your noise or bearing failures would be. I would recommend buying bolt in bearings as a complete units. You could always make a video of your noise and I could watch it and try to help diagnose it with you.
Did you buy OEM Hub & bearing? I have a 2007 forester and they told me the hub and bearing comes separate.
You have a press in style bearing on the 2007 forester. Replacement is a lot different than a bolt in style bearing. I have a video on it if you want to watch it.
Easy Fix yes please show me that video
th-cam.com/video/CInFJDz11II/w-d-xo.html
Is a $1000 OBD2 scanner required to set the control module to maintenance mode?
Depends on what you are doing. In this case there was no maintenance mode. Someday in the future probably all cars will need that mode to work on them 😏
I have a couple bearing hubs growling on my 2020 I just bought.
@@ExtremeRecluse Oh wow what brand and model vehicle? Need a diagnostic wheel bearing video?
So everything went well up until I took a couple hits on the hub with my small sledge. The hub came apart so how do I get the small flange off of the knuckle. Basically the bearing came apart and now there is nothing to really get a hit on. I didn't even hit it as hard as you do in the video. Nothing ever goes according to the plan for me!!!!!
I am sorry that happened. Not typical of a front replacement. Was the bearing really bad and loose to begin with? Usually they stay together when you hit them to remove. It's not too big of a deal. The next thing I would do is try to break loose what's remaining by using an air hammer to try to spin the bearing. If you can get it to spin in the knuckle it will pop right out. Here is a video where the exact same thing happened to me on a rear bearing. Please let me know if that helps. th-cam.com/video/uDWw7DUi4RE/w-d-xo.html Sorry for your luck and sorry for the delay, I didn't realize you left a comment.
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks for the reply. I just noticed your response. I have watched this video about 20 times and you did a great job explaining everything. The bearing was in bad shape it is a 2009 Forester so 10 years old. What I did to get it off was I rented for free a slide hammer. Then I got some hardened bolts and I put them in the bearing holes the other way. I was only able to hook the flange with two of the bolts because it really isn't supposed to be used this way. I slammed it about 20 times and it came right off. The guy at Autozone said it wouldn't work but it did.
What does "stake" and "staked" mean?
Basically you use a blunt tool to indent the axle nut without cutting it. You want to deform it into the axle groove to stop it from loosening😀🔧
My 2007 Impreza has press in to spindle style bearings and I hate it
Ya they aren't as simple. Press in bearings are cheaper and usually last longer though 😀🔧
where did you buy the wheel bearing from ?
I usually use a timken or Subaru bearing. I didn’t have the option on this bearing because of order times so I used a SKF bearing.
Do you have a link please and does it come pre set up ready to bolt in ?
I am so sorry for the delay. I have been missing messages. My bad! I don't have a link for the part right now I am sorry. Any late model Subaru front hub bearing unit like in the video will come set up and ready to install. Everything should be very similar for any Subaru from roughly 2008 and newer. As far as where to get parts. I would recommend trying to get a Subaru bearing locally or on online at amazon/ebay for best results. You can put cheaper bearings on from local parts stores. But they usually fail more quickly than the Subaru or Timken brands.
Excellent. Wow that's a nasty, salty, slushy, crusty mess under that car :)
Isn't it crazy? You must be lucky to live in a rust free area 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun grew up in WI looking at cars like that. Now in Western Oregon--No salt, no snow, no rust :)
Oh wow! Oregon is a dream come true for rust free cars. With no rust, is it possible to purchase the right vehicle and make it last forever? Do you see people driving 30+ year old daily drivers in great condition?
@@EasyFixShaun Oh absolutely. I moved here from WI in a 1985' Westfalia. There are still Beetles from the 70's rolling around. Plenty of 70's and 80's vehicles still in service. They effectively get 'rinsed' every winter from the constant rains :)
Wow! Truly amazing and the way it should be. I am moving now 😂
So much easier with a post lift
Yes for sure! Totally doable with some jacks and stands too 😃
Didn’t hear you mention a single socket size
19mm lug nuts, 32mm cv axle nut, 17mm brake caliper bolt, 14mm wheel bearing bolts, 10mm abs sensor bolt 😃
Does this work for 02-03 WRX?
No you need a press in bearing. I have a video on how to replace a press in rear bearing on a forester. It’s the same concept by way easier on the front.
@@EasyFixShaun - thanx for the qwik reply! Bummer! Looks I’ll be sending it to the shop.
You can do it. Get a press kit like in the video. A good bearing and a couple seals. You have to remove the cv axle. Once that is done, press out the old bearing and hub and press the new one in. You can do it all on the car without disturbing the alignment, depending on how you remove the cv axle. I will have a video out soon just for you. I’m actually working on an 2002 WRX front bearing replacement now.
th-cam.com/video/CInFJDz11II/w-d-xo.html Press in wheel bearings on the car with simple new tool!
Why are people pressing out the bearing? Don’t they all come as one assembly?
Good point, These are bolt in bearings. Not press in bearings. The rear Subaru bearings get severely stuck from a tiny amount of corrosion in the tiny clearance between the bearing and the knuckle. Front bearings don't seem to be as much of an issue. The rears are crazy hard to remove sometimes. I mean off the charts difficult! It will seem as if the rears are welded in, and that defeats the purpose of a "bolt in" bearing 😃🔧
Easy if you can get that bearing out of the knuckle otherwise a total nightmare.
Yup. Some of these have been stuck so badly that all I use now is the “Hub Shocker”. It makes it easy in comparison to what I had to do in the video. If you haven’t gotten one for these Subaru rear wheel bearings you should grab one before you even attempt the bearing replacement. I’ve learned the hard way on this. Save yourself! Links below, 2 day delivery from amazon.
@@EasyFixShaun Thanks will do, my first went out but I am still under the certified service so I was lucky. Will do if I have to do it myself though down the road.
Thanks!
Just a warning, I had to use a 4' sledgehammer to remover
Here is what I use on all Subaru's now. Especially the rear bearings. They are some of the most stuck bearings I have ever experienced. The tool pops em out with ease now for me. Make sure and use the mounting methods in the video and cv-axle trick to keep the bearing from separating while removing😃🔧 th-cam.com/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/w-d-xo.html
@@EasyFixShaun I literally bought a medium barrel air hammer at harbor freight for the job and it STILL didn't loosen it
Ya they can be an absolute pain. You must be in a northern state like me?
@@EasyFixShaun I'm in St louis, the car really wasn't even Rusty all except for the exhaust, I thought this was going to be easy peasy because it has bolts
@@christopher6161 oh man that sucks. Sounds like you are in a rust free area which normally helps a lot. It should have been easy. Some are a total pita though.
Subaru bearings need to be greased first , they do not come prepacked.
Do you mean Subaru press in bearings or bolt in bearings?
Bahhahahah I broke my sensor
Bummer! I am sorry. I have been there too. They aren't usually too hard to replace. Hopefully you can find a new one and get it replaced easily 😃🔧
hi, so how much does it cost apprx. todo this work with bearing price in auto services?
Depends on vehicle make/model and part quality and geographical area and shop choice. A wild guess would be $300-$600 nationwide 😃
@@EasyFixShaun so in my case (subaru, legacy 2008) cheapest "work" found: 40eur to change, and FAG bearing 105eur (not cheapest - close to best one at least at that shop) =~ 160eur final price.
In subaru oriented service - 200eur price (not sure what bearing they use)
Seems more than fair. Hopefully quality and speed are also good 😀