Thanks for this very informative didn't want to tackle the job on my own due to living in the rust belt but after seeing your video I feel confident thanks again!!!
If you have trouble accessing bolts to torque behind the knuckle, it helps to turn the wheel so you can more easily access things. Takes 10 seconds and saves on frustration.
You are a true legend. Followed your advice to a T and successfully completed the job this morning. Looks like we have the same exact year and model car. Thank you so much. Have a great weekend.
Excellent explanation on the video, as a Subaru guy who has done a bunch of work on my various WRX's I can say this is about as well explained as it'll get. You nailed pretty much an entire brake job and bearing replacement in one video. Would love to see a future upload covering front / rear bushings on this same generation of Impreza, if you ever get the opportunity.
Thank you. Here in the northeast this vehicle is constantly pounded from the weather and horrible roads. Here's a playlist regarding the bushings - th-cam.com/play/PLl6xt4Pyay3DCdqelfXU09jKAThu8dhtW.html
Great tutorial, thanks! A bit of grease on the mating surfaces usually helps with rust/binding of parts if you ever have to remove/replace in the future.
Just for some extra advice. Ive replaced CV axles before and the slightest touch of force from anything can dent those spline on the axle. My only advice would be to not let it drop down and hit the knuckle after you get the assembly off. Just be careful so you arent back in there a second time.
What are my missing here whenever I do this job on my Subarus I don't take the caliper off I just take the two bolts off the caliper mounting bracket and remove that all is one assembly I have not noticed any issues doing it this way it saves time oil knuckles and seems to work fine. I just want to encourage everybody to do what he did here and that is make sure you tie your caliper parts up because in the upcoming steps there are quite a bit of vibrations that will knock it down if you just balance it somewhere and then you run the real risk of breaking that hose I always use a coat hanger or piece of aluminum grounding wire I have, his chalkboard works fine.
great job watched two other great videos from others as well but you were the only one to do it without removing tie rod, sensor, strut, and pulling axle out from knuckle.
Drive the hub assembly so it rotates before trying to knock it out. It breaks the rust bond. Also, turn the wheel so you can get the torque wrench on the other side.
@@SublimeHiPpOs From what i heard on other videos or read on a Subie site,, I think it refers to an old timer's trick of loosening the axle nut slightly(?) and then driving the car in circles a few times. That little bit of wobble apparently breaks the rust bond?? Anyone else care to chime in I'm all ears.
@@juicer52 Seems like it would be safer to just throw the tire back on it the hub after everything is loose and put some of the car weight back on it.
Wonderful, short & sweet. I thought it would be a pain to carry out this job, but you've shown it's doable with the right tools. Thanks for the video. 😎
@@juicer52 - A lot of PB Blaster all over , repeat couple of times a day. Next day I’ve used a big, heavy duty pipe wrench and big old sledgehammer, and I was able to separate it successfully. Make sure you use a ton of anti-seize when installing new parts. So far, almost 2 years later , everything is working fine.
So I did everything correctly no problems until I got new hub on and I also went ahead and got new rotors I noticed even after I torqued the hub bolts and the axel nut along with calipers I still get the slightest play of movement on the bottom left of rotor without wheel installed yet is this normal when installing new hub and rotors since they are brand new parts that aren't stuck together yet ?
I live in ny, my dust shield looks like ripped swis cheese, ive spent over an hour trying to get one hub bolt off and after much cursing and throwing tools i may just have to drive it till it falls off my car and ive got to do all 4 bearings, pray for me
I’m just curious because my car makes a loud humming sound at speed. Is that how you can tell your wheel bearing is bad it’s only from the front driver side.?
105K miles on my 2014 Crosstrek has noisy rear bearings. Should I go for OEM replacement Bearing/Hubs (1 year Warranty) or aftermarket Duralast (Lifetime warranty)
I just uploaded a video for the rear bearings. It was considerably more time consuming vs the front hub. OEM if a better product. Good luck! th-cam.com/video/aXmsJflHpj0/w-d-xo.html
Hey man, thanks for the video. I am hoping that my B9 Tribeca is the same. Question on the offset wrench. There are cheaper sets out there than the Dewalt set you linked to. Is there something special about the offset that on these wrenches to get to the wheel bearing bolts without removing the knuckle or is the Dewalt set my best bet? Thanks!
Do yourself a favor and buy a new nut and all 4 bolts. I rounded 2 bolt heads attempting to remove them. Then i got pissed. Took a grinder to the old hub at the bolt ends until it fell off. At that point the new hub took 10 minutes to put back on and torq with all new hardware. Subaru part # 901000285 ( flange bolt ).. good luck
Hey when you did this the front part the 2 bulbs in the front what you're gonna go sort of the opposite direction also the boot is clamped on and those little nipples I couldn't get the wrench in there I couldn't get the socket in there I had to pop the Buddha off because I think wouldn't slide around just shut in the head to the video for more frustrations
Replaced both rear wheel bearings on my 2012 subaru legacy. No abs light or traction control light on before. Now they are on. Why would they be on now?
Sounds about right. He has to pay his mechanics 🧰, ancillary staff, overhead, etc. unless you want to spend 6-8 hours on your day off doing it yourself. It's really not difficult work, just time consuming unless you have a shop with every single tool you need, arms length away from.
I wouldn't pull the pin out because I don't want to chance getting something in the grease that jams up the pin when braking. Just take birth bolts out.
there isn't enough room to get a socket on the 4 hub bolts because the axel is in the way.. The bottom ones in particular.. any suggestions?? (08 wrx) is the box wrench the only way?
@@nathancrotts9520 Hey, it was a while ago so I don't remember exactly, but I think I used an extension on my socket. Definitely soak it in PB Blaster and tap with a 3lb mallet to help it get in the threads. Give it plenty of time to soak too. It's also possible I used a crescent wrench with a pipe slid over for extra leverage and/or tapped the wrench with a mallet. I likely did all of the things I mentioned until it broke loose lol. Sorry I couldn't be more help. EDIT: I know I didn't go and buy box wrenches.
I have a question. For the 8mm fastners do you have any specs for it? I went to Lowes and asked an employee and.he didn't know what I was talking about.
lol asking a Lowes employee for torque values, reminds me of the time I asked the employee at Home Depot where I could find a two-part epoxy, and he had no idea what the hell I was asking for
I know it’s way too late now, but next time that happens apply some heat to the hub... watch the cv shaft. And you can rent a slide hammer for free at auto parts store 👍🏼
Yes they are. Same part numbers according to the Subaru EPC (Subaru part number 28373FG000) . I'm about to go through this myself, we have a JDM Forester XS, but I ordered the new bearing from the USA. I realise this is probably too late, but hope that helps.
I just replaced the Cat flange on my Nissan Versa and had the same problem. Couldn't get all the way under because I couldn't jack it up any farther. Time for a diet LMFAO.
Last guy to change my right rear bearing torqued the FUCK out of my lower caliper bracket bolt 😢 havent changed my rear brakes since 2019 so i know it was him, cuz the bearing went out in 2021 :p Now we’re off to go buy removal tools!
New style bolt-on wheel bearings come as a unit with the hub. The old style pressed-in bearings were much more effort to replace, and came with the bearing only. With both, watch out for the ABS sensor and be sure the axle slides freely inside the hub. Otherwise the CV axle and/or the ABS sensor could be damaged as the hub is removed.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
Cannot thank you enough for all the content you've put out for subaru's. You've saved me so much time and money over the years
Thanks for this very informative didn't want to tackle the job on my own due to living in the rust belt but after seeing your video I feel confident thanks again!!!
If you have trouble accessing bolts to torque behind the knuckle, it helps to turn the wheel so you can more easily access things. Takes 10 seconds and saves on frustration.
You are a true legend. Followed your advice to a T and successfully completed the job this morning. Looks like we have the same exact year and model car. Thank you so much. Have a great weekend.
Excellent explanation on the video, as a Subaru guy who has done a bunch of work on my various WRX's I can say this is about as well explained as it'll get. You nailed pretty much an entire brake job and bearing replacement in one video.
Would love to see a future upload covering front / rear bushings on this same generation of Impreza, if you ever get the opportunity.
Thank you. Here in the northeast this vehicle is constantly pounded from the weather and horrible roads. Here's a playlist regarding the bushings - th-cam.com/play/PLl6xt4Pyay3DCdqelfXU09jKAThu8dhtW.html
Then why would you be searching up this video?
@@jam9297I didn't search for it. It showed up on the next video feed. That TH-cam rabbit hole.
Great tutorial, thanks! A bit of grease on the mating surfaces usually helps with rust/binding of parts if you ever have to remove/replace in the future.
Just for some extra advice. Ive replaced CV axles before and the slightest touch of force from anything can dent those spline on the axle. My only advice would be to not let it drop down and hit the knuckle after you get the assembly off. Just be careful so you arent back in there a second time.
what's the timestamp for this? noob here
Good piece of advice
Brilliant, so pleased I watched this, excellent straight to the polnt well edited and presented...saved me lots of time!
What are my missing here whenever I do this job on my Subarus I don't take the caliper off I just take the two bolts off the caliper mounting bracket and remove that all is one assembly I have not noticed any issues doing it this way it saves time oil knuckles and seems to work fine. I just want to encourage everybody to do what he did here and that is make sure you tie your caliper parts up because in the upcoming steps there are quite a bit of vibrations that will knock it down if you just balance it somewhere and then you run the real risk of breaking that hose I always use a coat hanger or piece of aluminum grounding wire I have, his chalkboard works fine.
Good video I couldn't follow along as intended a couple rusty bolts snapped and made my life that much better.
Gotta love Subaru's...
Thank you, great step-by-step guide for a week-end mechanic. Much appreciated.
Im in the process right now and these bolts are on there FIERCE
I used a wobble extension and was able to remove 3 of the bolts. The last one required an angle grinder, torch and a bolt extractor socket.
You are by far and away the best at showing every step you need to know to get the job done thank very much great video!
Clear, concise, well-organized as always.
great job watched two other great videos from others as well but you were the only one to do it without removing tie rod, sensor, strut, and pulling axle out from knuckle.
I just want to know why 6 morons give the video the thumbs down, I thought it was very informative and well edited. Good video, thanks for sharing
Sometimes people dislike a video by accident. You would be surprised the videos you watch show up Disliked by you.
Office people 😊
i know it's quite off topic but do anyone know a good website to watch newly released movies online?
@Maximo Diego I watch on FlixZone. Just search on google for it :)
Torque wrench everything, it's not if you "want to". Jack stand not at the correct location
Drive the hub assembly so it rotates before trying to knock it out. It breaks the rust bond. Also, turn the wheel so you can get the torque wrench on the other side.
Thank you.
Can you please clarify what you mean by "drive the hub assembly"?
@@SublimeHiPpOs From what i heard on other videos or read on a Subie site,, I think it refers to an old timer's trick of loosening the axle nut slightly(?) and then driving the car in circles a few times. That little bit of wobble apparently breaks the rust bond?? Anyone else care to chime in I'm all ears.
@@juicer52 Seems like it would be safer to just throw the tire back on it the hub after everything is loose and put some of the car weight back on it.
9:07 I replace one new bearing but when am finish I see the check light abs light traction light how can I solve that problem
Great lighting/camera even greater info. Best video of 6 on this repair I have seen. Thanks!
Wonderful, short & sweet. I thought it would be a pain to carry out this job, but you've shown it's doable with the right tools. Thanks for the video. 😎
No copper anti-seize to stop all those rusty surfaces from adhering again next time??
Good job kiddo !! Just did my drivers side hub on my Ford 4X4. Smoooth as silk again. Peace.
great video! its definitely much harder when you live in New England and every single bolt is completely frozen and rusted!
Excellent video!! Great lighting and description. This is my car. Keep more coming.
4 hours of banging with a 20lbs hammer and still nothing ! Welcome to Midwest salt and snow . It’s rusted better than weld.
did you ever win? how?
@@juicer52 - A lot of PB Blaster all over , repeat couple of times a day. Next day I’ve used a big, heavy duty pipe wrench and big old sledgehammer, and I was able to separate it successfully.
Make sure you use a ton of anti-seize when installing new parts.
So far, almost 2 years later , everything is working fine.
This is the best one so far. Great video
Dont even own a subaru, but always enjoy your informative videos
Job well done and excellent explanation I have to do one of those jobs and you made it very easy
Great video in content and audio/video quality. This helped so much, thank you!
bro you beat the shit out of that job your a weapon
Thanks man. Great Video. Came here to find out torque spec of the 4 bolts for the hub bearing (~50 lbs).
No problem 👍
Use a pry bar and put between the lug studs to hold it
Beautifully instructed
So I did everything correctly no problems until I got new hub on and I also went ahead and got new rotors I noticed even after I torqued the hub bolts and the axel nut along with calipers I still get the slightest play of movement on the bottom left of rotor without wheel installed yet is this normal when installing new hub and rotors since they are brand new parts that aren't stuck together yet ?
*after I sit on the bench and enjoy the mid day at the park*
Hearing Birds: @0:14
Oh yes.
nice. You made it look so easy
Curious what about speeding wheel sensor?
Does it's safer to remove the abs sensor first? From the wheel hub?
I broke one before hammering a seized one off...yea you should remove it. LOL
crack the driveshaft nut before anything = then jack up remove wheel = much easier !
Awesome stuff, will be doing these next weekend myself 👌
Me too haha
Thank you for this.
I live in ny, my dust shield looks like ripped swis cheese, ive spent over an hour trying to get one hub bolt off and after much cursing and throwing tools i may just have to drive it till it falls off my car and ive got to do all 4 bearings, pray for me
I’m just curious because my car makes a loud humming sound at speed. Is that how you can tell your wheel bearing is bad it’s only from the front driver side.?
What is this talk about using machined or machine bolts not threaded to pull the rotors? I can think of what you were trying to say. Anybody get that?
Great tutorial!
How many miles you recommend to replace it. Mine has 133k. No noise. But I don’t want to wait.
Do you have a video for a 03 subaru outback H6 3.0 water pump replacement?
105K miles on my 2014 Crosstrek has noisy rear bearings. Should I go for OEM replacement Bearing/Hubs (1 year Warranty) or aftermarket Duralast (Lifetime warranty)
I just uploaded a video for the rear bearings. It was considerably more time consuming vs the front hub. OEM if a better product. Good luck!
th-cam.com/video/aXmsJflHpj0/w-d-xo.html
Hey man, thanks for the video. I am hoping that my B9 Tribeca is the same. Question on the offset wrench. There are cheaper sets out there than the Dewalt set you linked to. Is there something special about the offset that on these wrenches to get to the wheel bearing bolts without removing the knuckle or is the Dewalt set my best bet? Thanks!
Do yourself a favor and buy a new nut and all 4 bolts. I rounded 2 bolt heads attempting to remove them. Then i got pissed. Took a grinder to the old hub at the bolt ends until it fell off. At that point the new hub took 10 minutes to put back on and torq with all new hardware. Subaru part # 901000285 ( flange bolt ).. good luck
Quick question buddy, if I were to buy a hub bearing puller what size would do this job?
Hey when you did this the front part the 2 bulbs in the front what you're gonna go sort of the opposite direction also the boot is clamped on and those little nipples I couldn't get the wrench in there I couldn't get the socket in there I had to pop the Buddha off because I think wouldn't slide around just shut in the head to the video for more frustrations
Good to use torque wrench on these bolts
Man, thats a good vid!
I know you will be using anti seize on all metal mating surfaces while putting it back together
would 13-14 crosstrek xv wheel bearing hubs fit on a 2005 impreza
Replaced both rear wheel bearings on my 2012 subaru legacy. No abs light or traction control light on before. Now they are on. Why would they be on now?
you may have broken an abs sensor
@@dasher4117 found the problem. A bit of antiseize got in the hole and on the sensor. Cleaned sensor, problem solved. Thanks for your reply!
Excellent job! Thanks for the socket sizes and torque specs.
Great video, thanks!
You don't have to take the caliper apart. Leave it in one piece
The local dealer just quoted $999 for this.
Sounds about right. He has to pay his mechanics 🧰, ancillary staff, overhead, etc. unless you want to spend 6-8 hours on your day off doing it yourself. It's really not difficult work, just time consuming unless you have a shop with every single tool you need, arms length away from.
Overpriced as hell lol
So you replaced the wheel bearing and hub as one assembly? Would it be cheaper to press out the old bearing and retain the old hub?
It's one unit for the front.
I wouldn't pull the pin out because I don't want to chance getting something in the grease that jams up the pin when braking. Just take birth bolts out.
Did you use OEM wheel bearing or something else, link? Got a right hand side to do on my Impreza, thanks🤙
Stay away from eBay ones! They'll last like 10k before they're donzo
warren lieu cheers, will do
there isn't enough room to get a socket on the 4 hub bolts because the axel is in the way.. The bottom ones in particular.. any suggestions?? (08 wrx) is the box wrench the only way?
What did you end up using ? I’m having the same issue, using a wobble socket (or trying to)
@@nathancrotts9520 Hey, it was a while ago so I don't remember exactly, but I think I used an extension on my socket. Definitely soak it in PB Blaster and tap with a 3lb mallet to help it get in the threads. Give it plenty of time to soak too. It's also possible I used a crescent wrench with a pipe slid over for extra leverage and/or tapped the wrench with a mallet. I likely did all of the things I mentioned until it broke loose lol. Sorry I couldn't be more help. EDIT: I know I didn't go and buy box wrenches.
Are the rear ones on a legacy the same process you think?
Shawn Warnick Working on one rn- seems to be the same process.
Same process on an 05 Forester? Or will I have to use a press?
Gracias explicas muy bien está fin de semana voy hacer esto te dejo saber gracias 🍺
What socket size was use for the center nut
This is all well in good unless everything is rust welded together
How did you know it was wheel bearing?
Mine sounds like helicopter and I think is wheel bearings.
My 2010 legacy started sounding like i had 38 inch super swampers on it.
I did this and now I have every damn light on my dash
My issue is with the bolt right now, it’s seized
Thank you so much bro
Did you use a Subaru oem WB?? Thanks
Does anyone know if I could still use this for a 2003 Subaru Impreza Wrx?
I have a question. For the 8mm fastners do you have any specs for it? I went to Lowes and asked an employee and.he didn't know what I was talking about.
lol asking a Lowes employee for torque values, reminds me of the time I asked the employee at Home Depot where I could find a two-part epoxy, and he had no idea what the hell I was asking for
8mm x 1.25
Can't get the hub assembly to break free. Even broke my 3 lbs hammer. Any suggestions?
I know it’s way too late now, but next time that happens apply some heat to the hub... watch the cv shaft. And you can rent a slide hammer for free at auto parts store 👍🏼
Try a 4 pounder
What year car is that?
Right way to do it
Broke the damn bracket bolt... snapped the head off... can i drill it out?
Yes. Drill it out and retap. This will help: th-cam.com/video/SXxp9Hjyz40/w-d-xo.html
When u dont live in the snow belt
NY vehicle
Wow that's impressive, there is little rust, i wish mine was that clean, thanks for the video
@@CarsNToys WHAT omg... your a god.
I live in MD, humidity, cold weather, and tons of salt yet my 10 year old subaru is rust free. Why? Cause I rinse the salt off during winter
Yep, I have a 2010 with 10 years and 170K with those lovely salty winter roads on it. Going to do this job next weekend. I'm expecting a sufferfest :D
Can anyone confirm if the usdm hubs are compatible with Jdm vehicles?
All else equal of course: year, model, chassis
Yes they are. Same part numbers according to the Subaru EPC (Subaru part number 28373FG000) . I'm about to go through this myself, we have a JDM Forester XS, but I ordered the new bearing from the USA.
I realise this is probably too late, but hope that helps.
No press needed?
No press. The bearing is built in to the hub.
I'm too fat to reach that jack point.
Great video though!
I just replaced the Cat flange on my Nissan Versa and had the same problem. Couldn't get all the way under because I couldn't jack it up any farther. Time for a diet LMFAO.
My dude is wearing bates lights
Does anyone remember when wheel bearing lasted the life of the car ?
piece of cake 🍰
Camera angles really fucked with me but hit it done
sounds like randall from clerks teaching us about mechanics what the fuck are my hands...
Last guy to change my right rear bearing torqued the FUCK out of my lower caliper bracket bolt 😢 havent changed my rear brakes since 2019 so i know it was him, cuz the bearing went out in 2021 :p
Now we’re off to go buy removal tools!
Sweet chevere
😊👍
👌👌👌👌👌👌
too bad these wheel bearings aren't serviceable. add grease and drive forever.
Axle nuts are really c...tnish or my car
Wait, you replaced the entire hub though.
New style bolt-on wheel bearings come as a unit with the hub. The old style pressed-in bearings were much more effort to replace, and came with the bearing only. With both, watch out for the ABS sensor and be sure the axle slides freely inside the hub. Otherwise the CV axle and/or the ABS sensor could be damaged as the hub is removed.
Thank you for the video now I'm going to try to do it myself and will save me $500 at the mechanic