My fridge fan was getting noisy after 10 years. Same model . There's only 2 screws holding the brass bearings on & there are little slots on the inside where YOU CAN OIL THEM . I used synthetic 5 W- 20 & it's quiet now !
I just used a hair dryer and a presto!👌I had put too much stuff in front of it earlier today which meant all the cold air didn't have much place to go, so was colder than it was supposed to be in the area behind the fan. And of course they prevent the fan operating if it's too cold back there so that it doesn't damage itself. So it would've naturally defrosted and came back on anyway. But using a hair dryer will quickly resolve the issue. And no longer obstructing the air flow.
Hi I have a question my fridge fan stopped working & neither fridge or freezer is cooling what could be the problem & is it an easy fix or would it be better to just buy a new one ? It just went out today
111.7302...kenmore fridge...only bottom freezer works...both evaporator fans are good but they don't turn on...no 13 volts to them...any idea what feeds them?a relay or a control board?seeing both dont work you think I need a new control board?thanks in advance for your help sir 🙏
Hello, we have the LG LSXS26386S Linear model. Only about 2.5yrs old. Anyway, both fans and compressor are running, although the compressor is not getting warm to the touch which seems odd to me. Also, the fan in the freezer area seems to cut off until i open that door, then it turns on right away. I feel around the vents in the fridge and don't feel any air movement. I vacuumed and blew out the dirty coils already. Thanks for any tips..
If the freezer compartment is at 0-degrees or colder, then the compressor should be working. If the freezer compartment isn’t cooling at all, then the compressor may have failed. The compressor has an extended part warranty. If you suspect that the compressor has failed, follow the steps shown on page 51 of your owner’s manual to schedule warranty service. Here’s a link for the owner’s manual in case you need it: www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/lsxs26386s00-lg-parts-manual. If the freezer compartment cools but the refrigerator compartment isn’t cooling, then a stuck damper could be preventing the cold freezer compartment air from traveling into the refrigerator compartment for cooling. Unplug the refrigerator and check the wire harness connections on the damper motor that opens the vent to let cold air flow from the evaporator in the freezer section into the refrigerator section. Reconnect any loose wires. If the wires are okay, you may need to replace the damper motor.
Sears PartsDirect thanks for the fast reply! Neither fridge or freezer are cooling at all, both warm. The fan blows good in the freezer but its warm air, and the compressor is running. I'll look into the warranty on the compressor that you mentioned.
My year and a half old kenmore refrigerator seems like has a similar problem. While the freezer is cold, the fridge is warm. Opening the back panel, see that the freezer fan is running, but the evaporator fan isn't (froze, saw lot of ice build-up). After cleaning it up, it seems to be run, but not always. Fridge is not cold enough. Is there a problem with the control board that turns on/off the fan or the fan itself needs to be replaced ?
Because the evaporator fan is now running after clearing the excessive ice, it may be okay. The refrigerator may have a defrost systems failure. Here's a video that describes troubleshooting for that type of failure: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/refrigerator-wont-cool-troubleshooting-video-defrost-system-problems . We recommend that you check the defrost system before checking the fan and control board. Getting rid of excessive frost may help the refrigerator cool properly. If the refrigerator doesn't cool properly, then the fan or the control board may be faulty. We hope this information helps. Let us know if you need more assistance and give us the model number of your refrigerator so we can provide more specific help for your model.
@@searspartsdirect Thanks for the quick reply. Again I see the evaporator fan isn't running and see lot of ice build-up around it. How do I enter the manual defrost cycle/mode on my kenmore fridge (model 111.73035)
@@anandnagappan The evaporator fan doesn't run constantly on that model. The fan is controlled by the electronic control board. You can enter the forced defrost mode by setting the control lock to on, holding down the Freezer Temp button and pressing the Refrigerator Temp button 5 times. The defrost heater will turn on for 30 seconds then will continue to stay on until the defrost temperature sensor senses that the heater should turn off. You can end the defrost mode early by unplugging the refrigerator. The refrigerator will return to normal operating mode when the forced defrost ends or when you restore power after unplugging the refrigerator.
I removed the fan and found 110v at the jack. The coil on the motor was blackened and a resistance check showed infinite. I have a question. The cooling coils are loaded up. Is this because the evaporatior fan was broke or is this a defrost switch fail?
A failure of the evaporator fan to circulate air through the evaporator fins can cause excessive frost on the evaporator fins (if that's what you're describing when you indicate that the cooling coils are loaded up). An air leak into the refrigerator (often caused by damaged door seals) can also cause excessive frost on evaporator coils. Check the door seals and repair or replace them if needed. If you replace evaporator fan and excessive frost reappears, then a failure in the automatic defrost system could be causing the excessive frost. Here's a link for a video that shows how to troubleshoot a common defrost system on a top-freezer refrigerator: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/refrigerator-wont-cool-troubleshooting-video-defrost-system-problems . We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know the model number of your refrigerator and additional details about the problems you're seeing.
HI,I SEE YOUR TIPS ARE GREAT,I HAVE AN LG REFRIGERATOR AND FREEZER COMBI332SF,THE FAN AND COMPESSORS RUNS,ALL DUCTS TO FRIDGE ARE CLEAR,THE FAN DOES NOT SEEM TO HAVE ENOUGH POWER TO SEND THE COLD AIR DOWN TO THE FRIDGE,FREEZER WORKING GREAT,DO YOU THINK THE FAN MOTOR IS TIRED?ANY HELP APPRECIATED.THANKYOU.KIND REGARDS.
The model number you provided seems to indicate that you have a model that isn’t available in the United States so we can’t see technical information for that type of LG refrigerator. We’ll try to provide some general information that will help. (If you have a US model, let us know the full model number of your LG refrigerator.) If you’re certain that supply and return vents between the refrigerator and freezer are clear, then a weak evaporator fan could be contributing refrigerator section cooling problems. Keep in mind that cold air sinks. If the evaporator fan is running (even though it may be weak) enough cold air should be circulating through the refrigerator section to keep the refrigerator section reasonably cook (at least 40 degrees F). If your refrigerator section is above 55 degrees F, then your refrigerator likely has clogs in the air duct system or a damper control problem that’s preventing the refrigerator section from cooling. We hope this general information helps. Let us know if we can assist you further.
Hello, I have an LG bottom freezer refrigerator model number # LRBC20512WW. The refrigerator gets cold in both compartments, but will not freeze in the freezer. Do you have any suggestions for me? Thanks, Joe
hi, Thanks for your clear explanation of Troubleshooting Evaporator Fan Refrigerator . I have one rather important question I would like to ask. Your Airflow where does the Air come from. Is it normally a Close Loop System where the Air is constantly re-circulated by the Evaporator Fan in the Fridge, or is Fresh Air Intake going on so that the Evaporator Fan is constantly pulling Fresh Air from the Outside and blowing it through the Evaporator Coils inside the Fridge. Also if it is not a close Loop System and the Fresh Air is constantly being sucked in from outside , is it vented out as it is recirculated inside and replaced by a fresh stream of air. Thanks
The air that circulates through the evaporator fan comes mainly from the freezer. Some air does circulate through the refrigerator compartment. The cabinet is sealed off from outside air.
I live back in the woods I'm going to try to make this fast... The refer was warm when i woke up. Now this unit has 5 lights' ... If you need to lower the temperature Select #1 and to rase it Select #5 and all the numbers between. I see that all The light are blinking like crazy, skipping the 4 hours it took me to "fix it" I would unplug the top fan, the blinking would stop and compressor would come on!! Thought i would see just how bad the fan was. using a 7-volt power supply Or A "Wall wort" I wired the fan to the 7-volt power supply and the fan was Runing great! But when I plug the fan back in blinking lights!! I connected the fan back up to the 7-volt power supply and put everthing back together aside from there being a wire coming out the freezer it works! I will fix it up correctly next time i go to town. I hope somone can read this and save their meats and TV dinners, lol
Hi I didn’t know where to ask for help but my ice maker in my kenmore elite 106.54603300 stopped working it’s one of those infrared ones I’ve tried everything obvious like making sure it’s clean except there’s ice in it and it’s at the 3 o’clock position thank you
Check freezer temperature because the ice maker won't cycle if freezer temperature is above 15 degrees. You can check freezer temperature with a thermometer or check the condition of ice cream stored in the freezer. At 15 degrees, ice cream stored in your freezer will be extremely soft. If ice cream is firm or hard to scoop, then freezer temperature is likely around zero degrees. If freezer temperature is okay, then the ice maker assembly or the infrared optics control boards may have failed. Your details seem to indicate that the ejector arm is in the home position (3 o'clock) as shown in the parts image on this page: www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/2198597/0046/106.html . If the ejector arm isn't in that position, you may need to replace the ice maker assembly because its internal gears are stripped. Unplug the refrigerator before replacing parts. Here's a repair guide that shows how to replace that ice maker assembly: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/refrigerator/how-to-replace-icemaker-optic-boards.html . If the ice maker ejector arm is in the home position, then the ice maker assembly may not be getting electrical current it needs to eject the ice and refill with water. The infrared optics boards (part W10757851 -- www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10757851/0046/106.html ) control the electric current supply going to the ice maker assembly. That set of control boards may not be sending current to the ice maker assembly or the ice maker assembly. Keep in mind that the ice maker assembly may be getting current but not cycling. There's also a slight chance that bad wiring connections or damaged wires are preventing the ice maker from cycling. Unplug the refrigerator and check all wire harness connections on the ice maker assembly and the optic boards to avoid replacing unnecessary parts in case a wiring connection is loose. Here's a repair guide that shows how to access the optics board wires: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/refrigerator/how-to-replace-icemaker-optic-boards.html . Examine the optics circuit boards while checking their wire harness connections. If you see burn marks on either optics control board, you'll need to replace that set of control boards. Use the repair guide for replacing the ice maker that we provided above to access and check the ice maker assembly wire harness connection. If all wires are connected properly and you need no damage to wiring or the optics circuit boards, then restore power to the refrigerator and leave the freezer door shut for a couple of hours to allow the freezer compartment to cool down and see if the ice maker cycles. Unplugging the refrigerator then plugging it back in to restore power to the circuit boards may reboot them so they send power to the ice maker assembly and there's a chance that the ice maker may begin cycling again. If the ice maker still doesn't work after following these troubleshooting tips, then you'll have to make a decision to replace either the ice maker assembly or the set of optics boards to repair the failure. If you replace one of those components and the ice maker still doesn’t work, then you'll need to replace the other component to attempt to fix the problem. The optics boards don't send current to the ice maker assembly constantly so we don't have safe and practical electrical checks that you can perform on the ice maker system to determine which component failed. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Sears PartsDirect I let it thaw out overnight and dry out but now it’s just cycling through without adding any water. The water from the dispenser is working
@@kwoods3379 Because the ice maker is now cycling, the optics boards are apparently okay. The water fill tube that inserts into the fill cup of the ice maker assembly could be frozen. Unplug the refrigerator and squeeze that black rubber fill tube. If you feel ice inside that fill tube, then you can try to defrost the fill tube by wrapping a clean wash cloth moistened with hot water around the tube. Defrosting a frozen fill tube will likely restore the water supply to the ice maker. If the fill tube isn't frozen, then a bad inlet water valve assembly, a failed ice maker assembly or a wiring failure may be preventing the ice maker from getting fill water. If the fill tube isn't frozen and you need help determining which of these components is preventing the ice maker from filling, let us know.
A failing or inefficient evaporator fan blade typically doesn't cause frost buildup in the freezer. Frost build-up throughout the entire freezer compartment is often caused by air leaks through the door gasket or other openings such as a leaky ice door on the ice dispenser (if present). Placing unsealed food items with high moisture content in the freezer compartment can also cause frost. A failure in the automatic defrost system can cause excessive frost on the back wall of the freezer. If frost buildup covers the back wall of the freezer compartment, follow the steps in this video/article that covers troubleshooting for the automatic defrost system in common refrigerators: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/troubleshooting-defrost-system-problems-in-refrigerators.html . We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
I thank you for your video. my issue is thou the fan works. we had a heat spell in New York for 4 days. just before that time I used to feel the air blowing from freezer to fridge below thru the air duck in back of the fridge. now during the heat spell 2 days ago the fan probably is not blowing strongly or fast enough cuz it's hardly a trace of air blowing through that duck. suspect the fan is spinng slower slw. tempe in ridge is 50 °.humn? it's the same 12 volt type fan found in a UPC computer. fan label says 2.2 Watts. the fridge is 17 years old. is there a faster fan with the same 12 volts i can get. so i can feel that reassuring cool air blowing into the refrigerator thanks so much for help..
We don’t think you need a stronger fan. Replacing the existing evaporator fan with a different type of fan isn’t a good idea. If the existing fan isn’t running at full speed, we recommend that you replace it with the manufacturer-approved replacement part. Give us the model number of your refrigerator if you need help finding that part. If the existing evaporator fan appears to be running at full speed, then the refrigerator may be building up frost on the evaporator fins due to an air leak through a door gasket. Excess frost can clog air passages through the evaporator and prevent air from flowing into the refrigerator even though the fan runs at full speed. Check the refrigerator and freezer door gaskets for damage and replace any damaged gaskets. If the gaskets are okay, then a problem with the automatic defrost system can cause frost to build up on the evaporator fins and prevent air from flowing into the refrigerator. Follow the troubleshooting steps in this video to resolve an automatic defrost system problem: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/troubleshooting-defrost-system-problems-in-refrigerators.html.
Sears PartsDirect hello thank you very much for responding. to my message. I'll have to look for the model number of this Avanti two door frost-free made in 1999. by the way when landlord the first got me this fridge the fan conked out after six months. I looked at the fan and replaced it with a similar fan which looks exactly like a PCU cooling fan which is only 2.2 Watts fan pretty low you think? I don't know what the wattage of the original fan. but the pvu i put in worked well for the most part for 17 years until the heat spell hit last week. I melted away the ice in the air ducks and the cooling fins behind panel with a hair dryer it didn't give much help. when I restarted the refrig after an hour this past weekend the temp about 50 now after a couple of days later temperature went down to 40. its still humid in fridge. my gaskets are holding up. no visible damage or leaks but I'll look for model number and I'll get back to you please can explain why do they call this an evaporator fan?? why is it an "evaporator" fan?? thanks very much for your help again appreciate it
Hey can you help me on this My fridge is stop working so I open coil side and I see there is lots of ice so clean all ice and start machine on but it’s not working I replace thermistor and compressor relay still not working Model no whirlpool WRID45TN Can you help on this
Why don't you mention the easiest thing to check. Thaw out the refrigerate to clear any ice that may have formed inside the wall of the unit that interferes with the operation of the blower fan. I could not see the ice even after emptying out the refrigerator but thawing out for 24 hrs cured the issue. This should be the 1st troubleshooting tip.
Excellent Video. A+!!! My issue was the damn drain. I stripped 5 feet of coax cable to clear it lol. Upon further inspection I noticed the fan blows out torward the freezer door. My freezer and fridge is similar to what I've seen in this video. To me it would make sense to suck air in over the coils to cool them and then to the bottom firdgerator. As far as efficiency is concerned I would think. But I noticed vents in the bottom. I can see it blowing air out to freeze the freezer and then sending the air to the bottom vents for circulation back into the refrigerator but this to me seems extremely in efficient. But makes sense to prevent the freezer getting to cold to quick. It's going to take forever although. Which way does the fan blow on a model like this. Does it blow air toward the door or suck air in.
oh by the way i unpulged the fridge I took the fan panel down hairdryed the filaments in the back turned it back on after an hour and the filaments get Frosty again usual.but the fan is hardly moving the air thry that air duck into the refrigerator from freezer. I just thought I'd get a faster fan
watch the wires when you put the evap fan back, they can hit the blades, then you can take the cover on and off five times trying to figure out whats making the new noise haha
Hey, what is the Wattage for your fan motor? I'm having a problem where my fan will turn on and off which leads to my freezer not getting cold. My Motor is rated 12vDC, and 4W. From my calculations is should be getting a resistance of 36.7 ohms but once I connect my meter to the fan I'm reading 1.2kohms.
The wattage of the evaporator fan motor in the refrigerator shown in the video is 2.6 watts. Because the fan motor in the refrigerator shown in the video (253.60412411) uses an electronic control board attached directly to the motor to control the fan, we weren’t able to check resistance through the fan motor windings. You may be facing the same issue when attempting to measure resistance through the motor windings in the evaporator motor for your refrigerator. Also, the electronic control board doesn’t run the evaporator fan constantly when the compressor is running on some models of refrigerators (including the model shown in our video). If the evaporator fan in your refrigerator runs when activated by the electronic control board, then the evaporator fan motor may be okay. A faulty thermistor (temperature sensor), defrost system failure or bad electronic control board could be causing cooling problems if the evaporator fan motor is okay.
Unplug the refrigerator and tighten the fan mounting screws. That may fix the problem. If you need more help, let us know and give us the model number of your refrigerator.
I have double door refrigerator sanyo... if you work continuously for a week, then there will be no cold .... If you turn off the power for an entire night and turn it on again in the morning, it will start to cool again ....
Your symptoms point to a failure in the automatic defrost system. Frost likely is building up on the evaporator fins because the defrost system isn't working to periodically melt the frost off those fins. After a week, enough frost builds up on the evaporator fins so that air passages through the fins are blocked and the refrigerator quits cooling. Unplugging the refrigerator for the entire night allows the frost to melt so cooling is restored the next day. Let us know the model number of your refrigerator and we'll provide some troubleshooting tips to help you resolve the issue yourself if possible. You may also consider having a service technician repair the failure.
Very good video. Please instruct me how to enter the diagnostic test mode on Kenmore 106.53232300? My Evaporator Fan Motor (Part Number: 2188357) is stopping running. There is much less cooling in the refrigerator section as there is no cold air from freezer section to the refrigerator section. I need to test if the board is good or not before I order the motor to replace it.
That model has a defrost timer instead of an electronic control board. The timer doesn’t have a diagnostic test mode. The compressor is in the same circuit as the evaporator fan. Your details seem to indicate that the compressor is running so the evaporator fan should be getting power from the defrost timer. We recommend that you unplug the refrigerator and check the wiring connections on the evaporator fan. If the wiring is okay, then the evaporator fan likely failed.
We've owned one of those new energy saving Kenmore refrigerators for three years now and it has an irritating problem that I can't seem to find any information about online. The compressor and condenser will come on, but the evaporator refuses if it's not forced. Sometimes it'll run in pieces- condensor and evaporator for several minutes, then they turn off and the evaporator runs for several minutes, then all three run together for several minutes. (This is not great for our power bill.) Now here's the thing that makes it so odd- this only occurs from late October to Thanksgiving, when everything will be perfectly fine for another year. It's so regular I could mark it on the calendar, almost as if it's been programmed into the thing's computer to act like an ass every fall. Any idea what could be causing this and how to stop it?
It's a Kenmore #253.60412410. Normally I have no complaints about this fridge, just this one mystery. The only other time this happens is if we've had a brownout or power outage, but it usually remedies itself in a few cycles in those cases.
Your model uses an electronic control board to control evaporator fan operation. The electronic control board gets input from the defrost thermistor (temperature sensor) when controlling the evaporator fan. We don’t have technical details about how the electronic control board decides when to run the evaporator fan but we suspect that you’re seeing differences in evaporator fan operation based on input that the electronic control board receives from the defrost thermistor. Based on your description, the refrigerator seems to be working properly.
Thanks for looking that up for us. I really appreciate it. :-) I wouldn't have worried about it except that we were losing food, especially dairy products. We actually just figured out what was going on and it has a very simple solution. This time of year is the only time that the sun shines directly on the refrigerator, and (according to the manual) it's shines directly on the spot where the thermostat is located. Blocking the sun stops the problem completely. Weird, but interesting.
That's normal for some refrigerators. If the evaporator fan never turns back on when the compressor is running, then the refrigerator may have a bad control board. Let us know the model number of your refrigerator and more details about symptoms that you're seeing and we'll try to help you troubleshoot and fix the problem.
Hello, sir I'm Fahad sir I see this your video I'm very excited your explained mathed is so good because I'm technician air conditioning and Refrigeration . Sir I want to do work together.. this possible sir...
If the freezers are identical models or use the exact same evaporator fan, then you can unplug the freezers and move the fan. If the models are identical or the fans aren't identical parts, then you'll need to order and replace the fan that fits the model that needs the evaporator fan replaced.
Unplug your refrigerator and check the wire harness connections on the evaporator fan and the control. Reconnect any loose wires. If the wiring connections are okay, then the evaporator fan motor may have failed or the control could be bad. You may be able to fix the problem by replacing the evaporator fan motor. If you replace the fan motor and the fan still won’t run, then you’ll likely need to replace the control.
Check your freezer temperature. The ice maker won’t cycle if freezer temperature isn’t below 1.5 degrees F in that model. Adjust the freezer temperature setting if necessary. If freezer temperature is okay, unplug the refrigerator and check the wire harness connection on the ice maker. Reconnect the wire harness if you find it loose. Plug the refrigerator back in and manually fill the ice mold with water using a squirt bottle or turkey baster. The control will check the ice maker temperature 2 hours after restoring power. The ice maker will cycle and dump the ice if the ice maker’s temperature sensor detects that the ice is frozen. If the ice maker doesn’t cycle after 2 hours, press the test button on the bottom of the ice maker to cycle the ice maker. If the ice maker won’t cycle, then you may need to replace the ice maker. We hope these tips help you resolve the problem. Post the full model number of your Samsung RS267 refrigerator if you need more help.
I'm hearing an irritating sort of high-pitched hum sound that is intermittent and LOUD. Sometimes it will stop for a few minutes or so, but then it comes back. It can be heard rooms away from the refrigerator/freezer, but is loudest when you open the freezer drawer. The noise is definitely coming from the top corner behind the ice tray. Please make this stop!
Hi, can you help me with this ? The fan gets 'stuck' like in the video for 2-3 minutes, then starts by itself again. Happens few times a week th-cam.com/video/elC8mBgYLFE/w-d-xo.html
A loose wire, could cause this problem. Unplug the refrigerator and check the wire connections between the electronic control board and the evaporator fan. Reconnect any loose wires and repair any broken wires. If the wires are okay, then a bad evaporator fan motor or a failed electronic control board could be causing the fan to cycle on and off. If these general tips don’t help you figure out what’s causing the failure, let us know the model number of your refrigerator. With the model number of your refrigerator, we can likely provide you with more specific help for diagnosing and fixing this evaporator fan problem.
The evap fan does NOT run just because the compressor is running. On a warm refrigerator for instance when you first plug it in, the evap fan should NOT be running. The compressor runs for a time without the evap fan in this case in order to cool the line that the evap fan stat control is attached to. Once that line reaches the set temp, THEN the evap fan should come on. If the evap fan came on immediately on a warm friidge, the thing would either never cool or it would take forever to reach the temp you set it at. I hear this poor explanation on nearly every video I've seen on this issue. If the evap fan is running when fridge is warm(like when first plugged in) then the evap t-stat is likely bad.
The video says that the evaporator fan typically runs when the compressor runs, which is true for many refrigerators. You’re correct that the evaporator fan doesn’t always run when the compressor runs on some models (including the one shown in this video). That’s why we used the diagnostic test mode to check the evaporator fan in this refrigerator.
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Damn - the more Wayne talked, the more I wanted to invited him over for beer!
By his appearance I wasn't expecting a lot but this fellow is a wealth of knowledge.
What does that mean? A lot of techs looks like a farmer. You’re trippin.🤦🏽♀️🤣
Wtf does that mean. Guys like that are full of information. Bigot
Great video! Logical troubleshooting steps, clearly presented, and still comes in under 4 minutes!
Thank you!
My fridge fan was getting noisy after 10 years. Same model . There's only 2 screws holding the brass bearings on & there are little slots on the inside where YOU CAN OIL THEM . I used synthetic 5 W- 20 & it's quiet now !
I just used a hair dryer and a presto!👌I had put too much stuff in front of it earlier today which meant all the cold air didn't have much place to go, so was colder than it was supposed to be in the area behind the fan. And of course they prevent the fan operating if it's too cold back there so that it doesn't damage itself. So it would've naturally defrosted and came back on anyway. But using a hair dryer will quickly resolve the issue. And no longer obstructing the air flow.
Hi I have a question my fridge fan stopped working & neither fridge or freezer is cooling what could be the problem & is it an easy fix or would it be better to just buy a new one ? It just went out today
Thank u great tips. U helped me resolve my fridge problem and saved me money.
111.7302...kenmore fridge...only bottom freezer works...both evaporator fans are good but they don't turn on...no 13 volts to them...any idea what feeds them?a relay or a control board?seeing both dont work you think I need a new control board?thanks in advance for your help sir 🙏
I’m hearing a humming noise coming from the top freezer when I open door and see some ice buildup from back of freezer any suggestions ?
What a great new channel. You do a great job.
Thanks a bunch Wayne!
Hello, we have the LG LSXS26386S Linear model. Only about 2.5yrs old.
Anyway, both fans and compressor are running, although the compressor is not getting warm to the touch which seems odd to me. Also, the fan in the freezer area seems to cut off until i open that door, then it turns on right away. I feel around the vents in the fridge and don't feel any air movement. I vacuumed and blew out the dirty coils already. Thanks for any tips..
If the freezer compartment is at 0-degrees or colder, then the compressor should be working. If the freezer compartment isn’t cooling at all, then the compressor may have failed. The compressor has an extended part warranty. If you suspect that the compressor has failed, follow the steps shown on page 51 of your owner’s manual to schedule warranty service. Here’s a link for the owner’s manual in case you need it: www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/lsxs26386s00-lg-parts-manual. If the freezer compartment cools but the refrigerator compartment isn’t cooling, then a stuck damper could be preventing the cold freezer compartment air from traveling into the refrigerator compartment for cooling. Unplug the refrigerator and check the wire harness connections on the damper motor that opens the vent to let cold air flow from the evaporator in the freezer section into the refrigerator section. Reconnect any loose wires. If the wires are okay, you may need to replace the damper motor.
Sears PartsDirect thanks for the fast reply! Neither fridge or freezer are cooling at all, both warm. The fan blows good in the freezer but its warm air, and the compressor is running. I'll look into the warranty on the compressor that you mentioned.
Thank you very much for your help
My year and a half old kenmore refrigerator seems like has a similar problem. While the freezer is cold, the fridge is warm. Opening the back panel, see that the freezer fan is running, but the evaporator fan isn't (froze, saw lot of ice build-up). After cleaning it up, it seems to be run, but not always. Fridge is not cold enough. Is there a problem with the control board that turns on/off the fan or the fan itself needs to be replaced ?
Because the evaporator fan is now running after clearing the excessive ice, it may be okay. The refrigerator may have a defrost systems failure. Here's a video that describes troubleshooting for that type of failure: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/refrigerator-wont-cool-troubleshooting-video-defrost-system-problems . We recommend that you check the defrost system before checking the fan and control board. Getting rid of excessive frost may help the refrigerator cool properly. If the refrigerator doesn't cool properly, then the fan or the control board may be faulty. We hope this information helps. Let us know if you need more assistance and give us the model number of your refrigerator so we can provide more specific help for your model.
@@searspartsdirect Thanks for the quick reply. Again I see the evaporator fan isn't running and see lot of ice build-up around it. How do I enter the manual defrost cycle/mode on my kenmore fridge (model 111.73035)
@@anandnagappan The evaporator fan doesn't run constantly on that model. The fan is controlled by the electronic control board. You can enter the forced defrost mode by setting the control lock to on, holding down the Freezer Temp button and pressing the Refrigerator Temp button 5 times. The defrost heater will turn on for 30 seconds then will continue to stay on until the defrost temperature sensor senses that the heater should turn off. You can end the defrost mode early by unplugging the refrigerator. The refrigerator will return to normal operating mode when the forced defrost ends or when you restore power after unplugging the refrigerator.
I removed the fan and found 110v at the jack. The coil on the motor was blackened and a resistance check showed infinite. I have a question. The cooling coils are loaded up. Is this because the evaporatior fan was broke or is this a defrost switch fail?
A failure of the evaporator fan to circulate air through the evaporator fins can cause excessive frost on the evaporator fins (if that's what you're describing when you indicate that the cooling coils are loaded up). An air leak into the refrigerator (often caused by damaged door seals) can also cause excessive frost on evaporator coils. Check the door seals and repair or replace them if needed. If you replace evaporator fan and excessive frost reappears, then a failure in the automatic defrost system could be causing the excessive frost. Here's a link for a video that shows how to troubleshoot a common defrost system on a top-freezer refrigerator: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/refrigerator-wont-cool-troubleshooting-video-defrost-system-problems . We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know the model number of your refrigerator and additional details about the problems you're seeing.
HI,I SEE YOUR TIPS ARE GREAT,I HAVE AN LG REFRIGERATOR AND FREEZER COMBI332SF,THE FAN AND COMPESSORS RUNS,ALL DUCTS TO FRIDGE ARE CLEAR,THE FAN DOES NOT SEEM TO HAVE ENOUGH POWER TO SEND THE COLD AIR DOWN TO THE FRIDGE,FREEZER WORKING GREAT,DO YOU THINK THE FAN MOTOR IS TIRED?ANY HELP APPRECIATED.THANKYOU.KIND REGARDS.
The model number you provided seems to indicate that you have a model that isn’t available in the United States so we can’t see technical information for that type of LG refrigerator. We’ll try to provide some general information that will help. (If you have a US model, let us know the full model number of your LG refrigerator.) If you’re certain that supply and return vents between the refrigerator and freezer are clear, then a weak evaporator fan could be contributing refrigerator section cooling problems. Keep in mind that cold air sinks. If the evaporator fan is running (even though it may be weak) enough cold air should be circulating through the refrigerator section to keep the refrigerator section reasonably cook (at least 40 degrees F). If your refrigerator section is above 55 degrees F, then your refrigerator likely has clogs in the air duct system or a damper control problem that’s preventing the refrigerator section from cooling. We hope this general information helps. Let us know if we can assist you further.
Hello,
I have an LG bottom freezer refrigerator model number # LRBC20512WW. The refrigerator gets cold in both compartments, but will not freeze in the freezer. Do you have any suggestions for me? Thanks, Joe
hi, Thanks for your clear explanation of Troubleshooting Evaporator Fan Refrigerator . I have one rather important question I would like to ask. Your Airflow where does the Air come from. Is it normally a Close Loop System where the Air is constantly re-circulated by the Evaporator Fan in the Fridge, or is Fresh Air Intake going on so that the Evaporator Fan is constantly pulling Fresh Air from the Outside and blowing it through the Evaporator Coils inside the Fridge. Also if it is not a close Loop System and the Fresh Air is constantly being sucked in from outside , is it vented out as it is recirculated inside and replaced by a fresh stream of air. Thanks
The air that circulates through the evaporator fan comes mainly from the freezer. Some air does circulate through the refrigerator compartment. The cabinet is sealed off from outside air.
I live back in the woods I'm going to try to make this fast...
The refer was warm when i woke up. Now this unit has 5 lights' ...
If you need to lower the temperature Select #1 and to rase it Select #5 and all the numbers between.
I see that all The light are blinking like crazy, skipping the 4 hours it took me to "fix it"
I would unplug the top fan, the blinking would stop and compressor would come on!!
Thought i would see just how bad the fan was. using a 7-volt power supply Or A "Wall wort" I wired the fan to the 7-volt power supply and the fan was Runing great! But when I plug the fan back in blinking lights!!
I connected the fan back up to the 7-volt power supply and put everthing back together aside from there being a wire coming out the freezer it works!
I will fix it up correctly next time i go to town.
I hope somone can read this and save their meats and TV dinners, lol
What a pleasant man.
That was very thorough. Thank you!
Hi I didn’t know where to ask for help but my ice maker in my kenmore elite 106.54603300 stopped working it’s one of those infrared ones I’ve tried everything obvious like making sure it’s clean except there’s ice in it and it’s at the 3 o’clock position thank you
Check freezer temperature because the ice maker won't cycle if freezer temperature is above 15 degrees. You can check freezer temperature with a thermometer or check the condition of ice cream stored in the freezer. At 15 degrees, ice cream stored in your freezer will be extremely soft. If ice cream is firm or hard to scoop, then freezer temperature is likely around zero degrees. If freezer temperature is okay, then the ice maker assembly or the infrared optics control boards may have failed. Your details seem to indicate that the ejector arm is in the home position (3 o'clock) as shown in the parts image on this page: www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/2198597/0046/106.html . If the ejector arm isn't in that position, you may need to replace the ice maker assembly because its internal gears are stripped. Unplug the refrigerator before replacing parts. Here's a repair guide that shows how to replace that ice maker assembly: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/refrigerator/how-to-replace-icemaker-optic-boards.html . If the ice maker ejector arm is in the home position, then the ice maker assembly may not be getting electrical current it needs to eject the ice and refill with water. The infrared optics boards (part W10757851 -- www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/W10757851/0046/106.html ) control the electric current supply going to the ice maker assembly. That set of control boards may not be sending current to the ice maker assembly or the ice maker assembly. Keep in mind that the ice maker assembly may be getting current but not cycling. There's also a slight chance that bad wiring connections or damaged wires are preventing the ice maker from cycling. Unplug the refrigerator and check all wire harness connections on the ice maker assembly and the optic boards to avoid replacing unnecessary parts in case a wiring connection is loose. Here's a repair guide that shows how to access the optics board wires: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/refrigerator/how-to-replace-icemaker-optic-boards.html . Examine the optics circuit boards while checking their wire harness connections. If you see burn marks on either optics control board, you'll need to replace that set of control boards. Use the repair guide for replacing the ice maker that we provided above to access and check the ice maker assembly wire harness connection. If all wires are connected properly and you need no damage to wiring or the optics circuit boards, then restore power to the refrigerator and leave the freezer door shut for a couple of hours to allow the freezer compartment to cool down and see if the ice maker cycles. Unplugging the refrigerator then plugging it back in to restore power to the circuit boards may reboot them so they send power to the ice maker assembly and there's a chance that the ice maker may begin cycling again. If the ice maker still doesn't work after following these troubleshooting tips, then you'll have to make a decision to replace either the ice maker assembly or the set of optics boards to repair the failure. If you replace one of those components and the ice maker still doesn’t work, then you'll need to replace the other component to attempt to fix the problem. The optics boards don't send current to the ice maker assembly constantly so we don't have safe and practical electrical checks that you can perform on the ice maker system to determine which component failed. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Sears PartsDirect I let it thaw out overnight and dry out but now it’s just cycling through without adding any water. The water from the dispenser is working
@@kwoods3379 Because the ice maker is now cycling, the optics boards are apparently okay. The water fill tube that inserts into the fill cup of the ice maker assembly could be frozen. Unplug the refrigerator and squeeze that black rubber fill tube. If you feel ice inside that fill tube, then you can try to defrost the fill tube by wrapping a clean wash cloth moistened with hot water around the tube. Defrosting a frozen fill tube will likely restore the water supply to the ice maker. If the fill tube isn't frozen, then a bad inlet water valve assembly, a failed ice maker assembly or a wiring failure may be preventing the ice maker from getting fill water. If the fill tube isn't frozen and you need help determining which of these components is preventing the ice maker from filling, let us know.
Grandpa has his best duds on today.
Maybe you can help me the evaporator fan is not running it moves freely I did all maintenance on please help
Thanks Wayne. Do you have the model number for the Refrigerator used in this video..
It’s Kenmore model 253.60412411.
Sears PartsDirect Thanks
Is frost buildup in the freezer a sign of a failing or inefficient fan blade?
A failing or inefficient evaporator fan blade typically doesn't cause frost buildup in the freezer. Frost build-up throughout the entire freezer compartment is often caused by air leaks through the door gasket or other openings such as a leaky ice door on the ice dispenser (if present). Placing unsealed food items with high moisture content in the freezer compartment can also cause frost. A failure in the automatic defrost system can cause excessive frost on the back wall of the freezer. If frost buildup covers the back wall of the freezer compartment, follow the steps in this video/article that covers troubleshooting for the automatic defrost system in common refrigerators: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/troubleshooting-defrost-system-problems-in-refrigerators.html . We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
@@searspartsdirect by
I thank you for your video. my issue is thou the fan works. we had a heat spell in New York for 4 days. just before that time I used to feel the air blowing from freezer to fridge below thru the air duck in back of the fridge. now during the heat spell 2 days ago the fan probably is not blowing strongly or fast enough cuz it's hardly a trace of air blowing through that duck. suspect the fan is spinng slower slw. tempe in ridge is 50 °.humn? it's the same 12 volt type fan found in a UPC computer. fan label says 2.2 Watts. the fridge is 17 years old. is there a faster fan with the same 12 volts i can get. so i can feel that reassuring cool air blowing into the refrigerator thanks so much for help..
We don’t think you need a stronger fan. Replacing the existing evaporator fan with a different type of fan isn’t a good idea. If the existing fan isn’t running at full speed, we recommend that you replace it with the manufacturer-approved replacement part. Give us the model number of your refrigerator if you need help finding that part.
If the existing evaporator fan appears to be running at full speed, then the refrigerator may be building up frost on the evaporator fins due to an air leak through a door gasket. Excess frost can clog air passages through the evaporator and prevent air from flowing into the refrigerator even though the fan runs at full speed.
Check the refrigerator and freezer door gaskets for damage and replace any damaged gaskets.
If the gaskets are okay, then a problem with the automatic defrost system can cause frost to build up on the evaporator fins and prevent air from flowing into the refrigerator. Follow the troubleshooting steps in this video to resolve an automatic defrost system problem: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/troubleshooting-defrost-system-problems-in-refrigerators.html.
Sears PartsDirect hello thank you very much for responding. to my message. I'll have to look for the model number of this Avanti two door frost-free made in 1999. by the way when landlord the first got me this fridge the fan conked out after six months. I looked at the fan and replaced it with a similar fan which looks exactly like a PCU cooling fan which is only 2.2 Watts fan pretty low you think? I don't know what the wattage of the original fan. but the pvu i put in worked well for the most part for 17 years until the heat spell hit last week. I melted away the ice in the air ducks and the cooling fins behind panel with a hair dryer it didn't give much help. when I restarted the refrig after an hour this past weekend the temp about 50 now after a couple of days later temperature went down to 40. its still humid in fridge. my gaskets are holding up. no visible damage or leaks but I'll look for model number and I'll get back to you please can explain why do they call this an evaporator fan?? why is it an "evaporator" fan?? thanks very much for your help again appreciate it
My fan stops and spins when I touch the fan post if that's what's its called but the fan post is wobbly and it stops at times spinning
Hey can you help me on this
My fridge is stop working so I open coil side and I see there is lots of ice so clean all ice and start machine on but it’s not working
I replace thermistor and compressor relay still not working
Model no whirlpool WRID45TN
Can you help on this
his channel helped me alot great
Why don't you mention the easiest thing to check. Thaw out the refrigerate to clear any ice that may have formed inside the wall of the unit that interferes with the operation of the blower fan. I could not see the ice even after emptying out the refrigerator but thawing out for 24 hrs cured the issue. This should be the 1st troubleshooting tip.
Probably because that's a temp fix. What is causing the buildup?
how do you get out of test mode?
Excellent Video. A+!!! My issue was the damn drain. I stripped 5 feet of coax cable to clear it lol. Upon further inspection I noticed the fan blows out torward the freezer door. My freezer and fridge is similar to what I've seen in this video. To me it would make sense to suck air in over the coils to cool them and then to the bottom firdgerator. As far as efficiency is concerned I would think. But I noticed vents in the bottom. I can see it blowing air out to freeze the freezer and then sending the air to the bottom vents for circulation back into the refrigerator but this to me seems extremely in efficient. But makes sense to prevent the freezer getting to cold to quick. It's going to take forever although. Which way does the fan blow on a model like this. Does it blow air toward the door or suck air in.
The evaporator fan blows air toward the door. Return air gets sucked in through the bottom and back of the evaporator.
Sears PartsDirect
oh by the way i unpulged the fridge I took the fan panel down hairdryed the filaments in the back turned it back on after an hour and the filaments get Frosty again usual.but the fan is hardly moving the air thry that air duck into the refrigerator from freezer. I just thought I'd get a faster fan
watch the wires when you put the evap fan back, they can hit the blades, then you can take the cover on and off five times trying to figure out whats making the new noise haha
Hey, what is the Wattage for your fan motor? I'm having a problem where my fan will turn on and off which leads to my freezer not getting cold. My Motor is rated 12vDC, and 4W. From my calculations is should be getting a resistance of 36.7 ohms but once I connect my meter to the fan I'm reading 1.2kohms.
The wattage of the evaporator fan motor in the refrigerator shown in the video is 2.6 watts. Because the fan motor in the refrigerator shown in the video (253.60412411) uses an electronic control board attached directly to the motor to control the fan, we weren’t able to check resistance through the fan motor windings. You may be facing the same issue when attempting to measure resistance through the motor windings in the evaporator motor for your refrigerator.
Also, the electronic control board doesn’t run the evaporator fan constantly when the compressor is running on some models of refrigerators (including the model shown in our video). If the evaporator fan in your refrigerator runs when activated by the electronic control board, then the evaporator fan motor may be okay. A faulty thermistor (temperature sensor), defrost system failure or bad electronic control board could be causing cooling problems if the evaporator fan motor is okay.
the fan in my freezer is too loose, and makes too much noise when it spins. How do I fix this ?
Unplug the refrigerator and tighten the fan mounting screws. That may fix the problem. If you need more help, let us know and give us the model number of your refrigerator.
I have double door refrigerator sanyo... if you work continuously for a week, then there will be no cold .... If you turn off the power for an entire night and turn it on again in the morning, it will start to cool again ....
Your symptoms point to a failure in the automatic defrost system. Frost likely is building up on the evaporator fins because the defrost system isn't working to periodically melt the frost off those fins. After a week, enough frost builds up on the evaporator fins so that air passages through the fins are blocked and the refrigerator quits cooling. Unplugging the refrigerator for the entire night allows the frost to melt so cooling is restored the next day. Let us know the model number of your refrigerator and we'll provide some troubleshooting tips to help you resolve the issue yourself if possible. You may also consider having a service technician repair the failure.
Very good video. Please instruct me how to enter the diagnostic test mode on Kenmore 106.53232300? My Evaporator Fan Motor (Part Number: 2188357) is stopping running. There is much less cooling in the refrigerator section as there is no cold air from freezer section to the refrigerator section. I need to test if the board is good or not before I order the motor to replace it.
That model has a defrost timer instead of an electronic control board. The timer doesn’t have a diagnostic test mode. The compressor is in the same circuit as the evaporator fan. Your details seem to indicate that the compressor is running so the evaporator fan should be getting power from the defrost timer. We recommend that you unplug the refrigerator and check the wiring connections on the evaporator fan. If the wiring is okay, then the evaporator fan likely failed.
We've owned one of those new energy saving Kenmore refrigerators for three years now and it has an irritating problem that I can't seem to find any information about online. The compressor and condenser will come on, but the evaporator refuses if it's not forced. Sometimes it'll run in pieces- condensor and evaporator for several minutes, then they turn off and the evaporator runs for several minutes, then all three run together for several minutes. (This is not great for our power bill.) Now here's the thing that makes it so odd- this only occurs from late October to Thanksgiving, when everything will be perfectly fine for another year. It's so regular I could mark it on the calendar, almost as if it's been programmed into the thing's computer to act like an ass every fall. Any idea what could be causing this and how to stop it?
Let us know the full model number of your refrigerator and we’ll look into this issue.
It's a Kenmore #253.60412410. Normally I have no complaints about this fridge, just this one mystery. The only other time this happens is if we've had a brownout or power outage, but it usually remedies itself in a few cycles in those cases.
Your model uses an electronic control board to control evaporator fan operation. The electronic control board gets input from the defrost thermistor (temperature sensor) when controlling the evaporator fan. We don’t have technical details about how the electronic control board decides when to run the evaporator fan but we suspect that you’re seeing differences in evaporator fan operation based on input that the electronic control board receives from the defrost thermistor. Based on your description, the refrigerator seems to be working properly.
Thanks for looking that up for us. I really appreciate it. :-) I wouldn't have worried about it except that we were losing food, especially dairy products. We actually just figured out what was going on and it has a very simple solution. This time of year is the only time that the sun shines directly on the refrigerator, and (according to the manual) it's shines directly on the spot where the thermostat is located. Blocking the sun stops the problem completely. Weird, but interesting.
So the evaporator fan only turns on when the compressor turns on? It doesn’t stay on all of the time?
My evaporator fan is on all the time. What did you find out? I’m trying to troubleshoot right now. Thanks
Great channel
I had a plugged vent and a broken fan, the styrofoam vent was full of ice no air flow to the fridge.
How o you get out of the test mode
Unplug the refrigerator for 30 seconds and then plug it back in.
Help Evaporator Fan runs when i first plug in the refrigerator for about 10 sec then turns off
That's normal for some refrigerators. If the evaporator fan never turns back on when the compressor is running, then the refrigerator may have a bad control board. Let us know the model number of your refrigerator and more details about symptoms that you're seeing and we'll try to help you troubleshoot and fix the problem.
Hello, sir I'm Fahad sir I see this your video I'm very excited your explained mathed is so good because I'm technician air conditioning and Refrigeration . Sir I want to do work together.. this possible sir...
our fan is running, but dont get any cold air into the fridge. only the freezer
Can I take the fan from one freezer and put in another freezer
If the freezers are identical models or use the exact same evaporator fan, then you can unplug the freezers and move the fan. If the models are identical or the fans aren't identical parts, then you'll need to order and replace the fan that fits the model that needs the evaporator fan replaced.
This one what brands?
The refrigerator shown in this video is a Kenmore brand.
my fan is not working in my freezer.. cold..but not cold enough.. please help.
Unplug your refrigerator and check the wire harness connections on the evaporator fan and the control. Reconnect any loose wires. If the wiring connections are okay, then the evaporator fan motor may have failed or the control could be bad. You may be able to fix the problem by replacing the evaporator fan motor. If you replace the fan motor and the fan still won’t run, then you’ll likely need to replace the control.
Dude your the fridge guy or "the man" around here
My Samsung rs 267 can't make ice what the problem please give me ideas
Check your freezer temperature. The ice maker won’t cycle if freezer temperature isn’t below 1.5 degrees F in that model. Adjust the freezer temperature setting if necessary.
If freezer temperature is okay, unplug the refrigerator and check the wire harness connection on the ice maker. Reconnect the wire harness if you find it loose.
Plug the refrigerator back in and manually fill the ice mold with water using a squirt bottle or turkey baster. The control will check the ice maker temperature 2 hours after restoring power. The ice maker will cycle and dump the ice if the ice maker’s temperature sensor detects that the ice is frozen.
If the ice maker doesn’t cycle after 2 hours, press the test button on the bottom of the ice maker to cycle the ice maker. If the ice maker won’t cycle, then you may need to replace the ice maker.
We hope these tips help you resolve the problem. Post the full model number of your Samsung RS267 refrigerator if you need more help.
My fan runs for 1 minute after I power on the fridge then shuts off. Anyone know what might be the issue?
For some refrigerator models, that's normal. If the evaporator fan never runs except at that time, then the electronic control board could be bad.
@@searspartsdirect Thank you. Ill give the control board a look then. :)
my freezer works, the fan in the freezer works. tried to get to the diagnostic mode, no beep. help. 69 yr old trying to fix
I'm hearing an irritating sort of high-pitched hum sound that is intermittent and LOUD. Sometimes it will stop for a few minutes or so, but then it comes back. It can be heard rooms away from the refrigerator/freezer, but is loudest when you open the freezer drawer. The noise is definitely coming from the top corner behind the ice tray. Please make this stop!
He lost me at voltameter
😭😭
Hi, can you help me with this ? The fan gets 'stuck' like in the video for 2-3 minutes, then starts by itself again. Happens few times a week th-cam.com/video/elC8mBgYLFE/w-d-xo.html
mine runs for 2-3 seconds then stops and starts right back up,then repeats
A loose wire, could cause this problem. Unplug the refrigerator and check the wire connections between the electronic control board and the evaporator fan. Reconnect any loose wires and repair any broken wires.
If the wires are okay, then a bad evaporator fan motor or a failed electronic control board could be causing the fan to cycle on and off.
If these general tips don’t help you figure out what’s causing the failure, let us know the model number of your refrigerator. With the model number of your refrigerator, we can likely provide you with more specific help for diagnosing and fixing this evaporator fan problem.
The evap fan does NOT run just because the compressor is running. On a warm refrigerator for instance when you first plug it in, the evap fan should NOT be running. The compressor runs for a time without the evap fan in this case in order to cool the line that the evap fan stat control is attached to. Once that line reaches the set temp, THEN the evap fan should come on. If the evap fan came on immediately on a warm friidge, the thing would either never cool or it would take forever to reach the temp you set it at. I hear this poor explanation on nearly every video I've seen on this issue. If the evap fan is running when fridge is warm(like when first plugged in) then the evap t-stat is likely bad.
The video says that the evaporator fan typically runs when the compressor runs, which is true for many refrigerators. You’re correct that the evaporator fan doesn’t always run when the compressor runs on some models (including the one shown in this video). That’s why we used the diagnostic test mode to check the evaporator fan in this refrigerator.
Hey that guy is a Trump supporter