Refrigerator Too Warm - Diagnostic Steps
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This video will discuss what to check if your refrigerator or freezer is too warm. It will walk you through a series of diagnostic steps via a flow chart to help determine what the issue is with your refrigerator.
While this specific refrigerator is a GE side by side, the diagnostic steps are generally applicable to all refrigerators, but may vary slightly in appearance and in how the particular manufacturer accomplishes certain tasks (i.e. using a defrost timer to turn on the defrost vs. using a control board to power the defrost)
Link to flowchart:
www.graceappliance.com/fridge...
Time Marks:
0:15sec - 2 scenarios for warm refrigerators
0:44sec - Please subscribe : )
0:58sec - use of flowchart as it applies to specific models
1:14sec - Air flow with single vs dual evaporators
*1st Scenario* Only 1 cabinet is too warm
2:05sec - Are both the fridge and freezer too warm?
2:28sec - Appropriate temperatures for refrigerator and freezer
3:00sec - Is the evaporator fan running?
3:12sec - Check voltage at the evaporator fan motor
3:34sec - evaporator coils visual examination
3:52sec - checking for defrost issue
4:13sec - Is the defrost heater running at same time with compressor?
4:35sec - check for correct frost pattern on evaporator
5:11sec - check damper motor on refrigerator
*2nd Scenario* Both Freezer and Fridge too warm
5:38sec - Correct temps for refrigerator
5:52sec - Is the condenser fan running?
6:41sec - Clean condenser coils?
6:55sec - Is the compressor running?
7:08sec - Sealed system issue possible
7:22sec - Voltage to the compressor relays
7:46sec - Voltage after the compressor relays
8:03sec - Check compressor for failure
8:08sec - Please subscribe! : ) - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Hi Everybody, Welcome!
If you have technical questions please check out www.Patreon.com/GraceAppliance
By becoming a channel supporter, you'll get priority response to technical questions, technical data sheet requests, and help support the channel so I can produce more repair videos.
Thanks so much! Andy
Great video. Finally someone knows how to explain a procedure for repair.
Thomas Whiteaker thanks so much for the kind words! Stay in touch, Andy
If you’ve found this ad-free information helpful, please consider a $1 donation to help support the TH-cam channel at: www.paypal.com/donate/?token=p_-S29vsNHZsyxBt-llMSH_zJe4utLKcfvVRiZJHP0vIM5ldZMsdxPh9xywqckuI65fdq0&country.x=US&locale.x=US
You’re a great person I love the way you explain things. I will give you a big thumb up. Keep doing like that my friend and god bless you
Haven't found problem yet but I like that you don't waste our time with only one possible problem and one possible solution as the only answer like so many videos do. That one problem/solution "may" be but is not always the only answer.I'll try your steps. Thanks.
Thanks!
Keep me posted if you have any questions. Glad to help if I'm able. Andy
Your video educated me on how by brand new refrigerator has no sounds coming from it, so your flow chart indicates many possibilities that could be wrong with this new unit. I hope my technician from Barrons Appliance is as knowledgeable as you are.
Thanks for the kind words!
You may research to see if your fridge may be stuck in what’s called demo mode. Some fridge will have a series of buttons you can hold down which takes it out of “showroom mode” and turns the compressor and fans back on. If you find that you only have lights, but no fans or compressor kicking on, this may be the issue.
Thank you Andy the diagnostic step by step was clear and informative,
Thanks for the kind words Danny! You’re welcome. Stay in touch.
The best explained trouble shooting video! Thanks very much Andy.
I have looked at many videos, this appears to be the best for diagnostic steps and fixing.
this has got to be the best video for diagnosing problems with my fridge. Thank you
Watertown Films thanks so much! I’m glad it was helpful.
What is bed video?
@@Ray89135 youtube censors such videos.
I sent you a donation through PayPal Thanks for the flow chart. Ive made a good living selling repairing washer and dryers now looking to learn about refrigerators thank you for your video.
Thank you so much for that! It's truly appreciated!
I don't take for granted those coils again. I found out what a world of difference clean vs dirty coils can make. Make sure they are clean.
It's such a simple thing that makes such a huge difference! Thanks for watching.
valuable flowchart content 👍
Thanx for the information as im am technician myself it really helped me a lot.
Your chart allowed me to find and solve my refrigerator problem by the process of elimination. Good on ya' mate. Cheers
thx Andy this diagram and video is very helpful .
The best. Clean and logical. Needed more pics when describing things but overall very good
Thank you Andy I appreciate your help !
OMG - Absolutely the best video I have seen and I've been Googling for hours!! Thank you for the flowchart and information!!
Awesome Pamela! I'm so glad it was helpful. Thanks for the kind words. Stay in touch.
Oooooooooooo9o9oo
Good well done actually it is amazing lecture
Thank you for all your help. Twice in a month a repair man has been to my home because My fridge was warm at 60 degrees and spoiled all our food.The freezer was cold but not freezing he took the back panel of our double door fridge and took it out side and hooked up a water hose with hot water to remove thick as a block of ice build up on the could .he said that's standard practice and there's no problem with manually defrosting the coils twice in a month .last night he did it again and this morning it's doing the same thing :(
Hi Gnella, I’m sorry for the slow reply. This doesn’t sound normal to me. It defiantly sounds like a defrost issue to me if you haven’t had this issue in the past. There are freezers that are manual defrost, but usually this is once or twice a year. I’ve made a video today addressing this and am uploading it tomorrow. But, the short answer is that if your fridge is not manual defrost meaning it has a defrost heater, you shouldn’t need to be doing this often at all.
Thank you very much Andy 🙏🏻 all of your videos are very helpful keep up the great work .
Wonderful
Excellent
Thumbs up
Indeed very nicely explained 👍
Great video! You made it simple. I have a GE profile, the entire guts had to be replaced after a year because of a leak. Everything ran forgone several years, till there was an electrical problem on the same circuit. A GFCI was wired wrong and had to be replaced. After the installation was finished, it was discovered a ground wire was laying against the hot screw in the box; when the breaker was turned on, there was a pop. I am suspecting momentary short circuit may caused the fridge control board to not work.
steve farac yikes!
Perhaps. It’s recommended I’ve been told that a fridge should not run off of a GFCI, but I am not an electrician either.
It’s best to have its own circuit as they pull roughly 10 amps when the compressor kicks on.
In any case, you may try running the fridge from an extension cord temporarily to see if it resolves the issue. Have you tried this?
Excelent. Very helpful. Thanks you
Very informative. You now have a new subscriber, thank you.
This is is great video so far l have ever seen great explanation thanks for the great job
Fantastic video!
Andy - I am back!
Hope you're having a great Fourth.
I would be except I'm still trying to fix that GE fridge that's been hot for over a week.
Where I am now.
I have a 3-1 that I connected, going through the run capacitor.
BUT there are so many different wires and connectors I wasn't sure it was connected properly.
I did test the windings (?)
Run > Common - 4.6
Start > Common - 7.1
Run > Start - 11.5
The compressor hums but no loud noise.
Today I tested continuity between my plug and the 3-1 to make sure I wired properly.
I easily get continuity between my "input" wire and incoming wire that is dashed.
That "pings" on my meter with the plug on the right.
However I can get no continuity with the plug on the left.
In fact, I was frustrated and scraped just enough insulation off that wire and tested to that plug.
Nothing registered.
I just put it back together and plugged it in, but trying it without the run capacitor.
This might be wiring 101, consider me a dumbass.
Am I doing something wrong?
If not, could I try wiring the 3-1 directly to a different cord, plug leads into an extension cord?
If so, should I reconnect the run capacitor?
Hey, happy 4th as well!
The resistance figures you gave seem good to me. The 2 smaller figures will roughly add up to the larger figure, so that's good there.
You can also test each pin to see if you have continuity (I. E. Resistance) between any of the pins and one of the copper tubes on the compressor.
If so, that would be a shorted compressor.
It could also be that the compressors motor is seized up. Sometimes called a locked rotor. This wouldn't be good news. If you are getting 120vac to the 2 wires coming in to the 3in1, you have appropriate voltage and the compressor should be starting up at that point assuming the motor isn't locked up. You can hook the 2 black wires on the 3in1 up to a test cord of 120vac, but if you're getting 120v there now there isn't a need for that.
The fact that it's humming tells me you are getting at least some sort of voltage which may or may not be 120v.
If it is 120v, double check against the 3in1 install instructions that you have the pins hooked up correctly...it does sound like it would be a locked compressor.
The easiest way to confirm this locked compressor scenario is by using a clamp amp meter which would let you see how much power the compressor is drawing. If you hear that hum and it's pulling like 10Amps, that's what a locked compressor would look like on the meter.
I hope this helps.
Andy
Wonderful to see a nice-looking gentleman with no tramp stamps or hog rings and with a pleasurable voice!
GREAT VIDEO STEP BY STEP
LOUIS BRIAND glad it was helpful! Stay in touch.
Hi Andy!
Great video, especially for someone like me who knows just enough to be dangerous.
I have a GE Adorra, maybe 10 years old.
Model #POS- ice maker works, the chute & auger no.
I digress.
Last year I replaced the defrost heater which is actually a cheap & easy diy.
A couple of days ago, I noticed no longer making ice, similar to last year.
Today, noticed water in the freezer, I assume dripping from the ice machine.
Several hours later, both frig and freezer are 61 degrees, just finished throwing everything out of the freezer.
When I open the freezer, I distinctly hear a fan running.
I already took the back panel off and there is no ice on the coils.
I'm about to take the back off and hit everything with the ShopVac because I'm sure I'll have quite a bit of dog hair back there.
(and I was lazy and forgot my plan to clean it June 1.)
Anyway, I'll follow your advice to clean it all and see if it cools down. Just wondering if there is anything else i should be looking at while I'm down there?
Thanks again and thumbs up.
Hey! Thanks for the kind words. You’re most welcome. Sorry for the delay.
Now, if your compressor is running, there should be a light coating of frost on the evaporator fins. The majority of the rungs should have a light frost on them.
Can you confirm that your compressor is running? If so, the fan behind the refrigerator should also be running (condenser fan).
Let me know. Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance
HA HA! Seems so long ago!
Seriously, update.
Lights are on, no frost.
Based on other videos, took off the start relay and it sounds like a baby rattle.
Put the continuity meter on it and it buzzed off and on.
Many videos suggest replacing the start & overload relays with a Supco RCO 410 3-1 Hard Start.
Didn't want to wait for Amazon 3 day so bought local over the counter. Worth it because the counter guy told me that's mostly what they sell instead of replacement relays. Also, he personally installed one in his beer fridge - 20 years ago.
My problem is the wiring.
I was overwhelmed by the maze of wiring running in and out of connectors.
Stopped at the parts co today - (good move v Amazon). They told me I was overthinking. Basically find two power source wires and connect them. That's what I did and, connecting the three lines out per the diagram.
Black - 12 o'clock
Red (run) - 3 o'clock
White (start) - 9 o'clock.
I plugged it in, lights and inside/outside fans are all working and a very faint hum from the compressor.
Not loud and it's not getting cold. Wondering if either I miss wired, if there is an issue with the run capacitor, or if it is the compressor. (copper tube out was running cold before this).
Any suggestions?
Aren't you missing one on the bottom left to check the fridge thermostat control?
Goodmorning Andy, i watched all 4 videos, my samsung board is layed out differntly, i am assuming the blue plug is the defrost heater? if so mine has f-def-het and r-def-het. and that would go to the black lead. what is the orange wire? plz let me know. i tested the continuity defrost heater at fridge level and freezer. value was fridge 99.5 ohms and 58.5 ohms. i do not know if that helps they had a plug.
thanks
Andy I sure appreciate your video one thing I can’t figure out I have a general electric side-by-side about17 years old I can’t figure out where the damper doors are?
Hi khcopter,
I'm very sorry for the slow reply. I don't know what the deal is with my notifications not working, but in any case - If you're still having issues i'm glad to try and help.
So long as it's not a GE profile, the damper door should be inside the fridge side in the upper left hand of the cabinet. You can also see it from inside the freezer section, but it requires some disassembly.
Parts number 426 & 429 in this diagram is similar to what you're looking for. There should a plastic cover you can remove to access the damper door.
www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/gss25wgpdbb/0432/0165000.html
It may look similar to this?
www.appliance-repair-it.com/images/regdamper.jpg
If you're still not able to find it, please send your model number for your fridge and I'm happy to help further.
Best of luck!
Hello Andy, you make perfect sence and your videos are super awsome. I checked the voltage on the compresser relay and it gave 122 volts on both sides of the lower piece. Its a 2 piece relay and the positive on that relay is on the top side. the circuit board did some clicking before the 122.2 volt displayed on both bottom sides of relay.
I checked the ohms on the compresser it was bottom two 12.1, left side 9.0, right side 3.3, i know the videos were saying 10 by 6 by 4. Is my compressor off and bad.
Thanks again Andy for all your assistance. the compressor runs with the fan, it seems as if the vibration on it is not very strong it is a little hot and the copper pipes out of it the one to the condenser was little warm then it did not feel as warm the other one fealt little cooler. the whole issue started with the freezer being over icing. do you think it is low on freon, i have never had yo add to it before, and it is 11 years old and both fridge and freezer are out.
thanks again for all your help.
sam d hey Sam, you’re welcome. Sounds like the compressor is running fine. The pipes having a temp difference is normal and a good sign.
The freezer size frosting up excessively indicates a defrost issue in your freezer. It’s caused by one of 4 parts having failed. Either the defrost heater, the high limit thermostat (not a common failure) the defrost sensor, or a failed control board.
I have a video titled how to diagnose a bad control board - defrost issues. I’d start with that video if you haven’t watched it already. It will wall you though how to test each of these components. Let me know if you have any questions. Andy
Hey great video working on a whirlpool side by side and freezer compartment colding good but not the fridge section there is a build up of ice on the damper opening and causing a restriction of cold air to the fridge side thermostat good defroster good I changed the PCB board yesterday hoping it's that because like it's not sending the signal to turn on the defroster any thoughts
Hey, a defrost issue would cause heavy frost build up at the evaporator and not so much at the damper door.
Typically ice at damper door would be due to excessive moisture in the cabinet. Can be an air leak, due to bad gasket or ice chute staying open, but more likely would look for a clogged defrost drain line.
You'd have water/ice build up on the floor of the freezer. If so, you'd need to clear the drain line restriction behind the refrigerator.
Also, Certain models will have a diagnostic test you can actuate the damper to test for voltage.
I have a GE Monogram frige almost 20 years old. Refrigerator getting too warm f& bottom freezer too cold. The evaporator coil now ices up and when I defrost with a hair dryer everything's good until it ices up again at the end of the day and frige starts getting warmer. What parts do you suggest I replace?
Great video .. thanks !
Greetings Andy,
Can you please give me a link where I can download the Flow Charts and the schematics?
Thank you,
Ed
Andy i am getting a bit desperate we are on day 7 i feel like we were hit by emp. would a supco hard start kit get it to work?
goodmorning and thanks for the direction, when we start the fridge the compresser sounds loud and normal then you hear clicks several of them then the compresser slows down its sound and activity.
Yes, this sounds normal. The compressor for the first few seconds is pulling very high amp draw (I.e. using lots of power) around 6-10Amps. This is while the compressor is working quite hard to compress the refrigerant inside the sealed system. It takes a bit for the system pressures to equalize, but once they do the amps come down as does the noise. The clicking you hear is the overload relay on the compressor due to the high amp draw.
Hi Andy! I have a Whirlpool SxS with bottom freezer model WRE540CWHZ00. Freezer works, fridge does not. We replaced the evaporator fan motor and still no luck. After further diagnosis, we believe our control board is the problem. Neither the evaporator fan or the condenser fan will run. Upon looking at the control board, the board itself says it is a W10233325 Rev: A. The white sticker on the board says it is a P/N PCB-W10317076 Rev C. I can’t seem to find any replacements where the white sticker number is a Rev: C. (I’ve seen Rev A and Rev B). This has left me confused as to which number to search for and if the Rev matters. Can you help? Thanks in advance.
If your freezer is working then your condenser fan has to be working. So check again
Andy, so glad to find your site. I have a model gsh25isxb that wont cool on either side lower then 55. I followed your chart and the fan and compressor are both running. And it obviously cools from room temp down to the 50s but doesnt get any lower. It doesn't appear to be leaking air from anywhere so might this be something else? A temperature sensor? Something else that wont allow it to cool more? Thx so much. Will def send along some donations if you can help me figure this one out! Regards,
Hey Richard,
Thanks for the kind words.
So, if your compressor is running, both fans are running (condenser & evaporator), the coils are free of dust, and you do not have a defrost issue (very heavy frost build up on your evaporator) then you should have a light coating of frost on the evaporator coils after having run the compressor about 45 minutes. If you don’t, this would indicate a sealed system issue. That is, a failing compressor or refrigerant leak. You should see about 90% of the evaporator covered in a light frost.
The easiest way to confirm is to remove the rear panel inside your freezer to expose your evaporator and inspect it after the fridge has run for a while. Feel free to send a picture to GraceAppliance@gmail.com and I can confirm if this is your issue.
Let me know if you have any questions! Thanks, Andy
I have 1984 GE monogram built in refrigerator the Defrost circuit is built in the board . It will work for 7 days and then it stops getting cold I let it defrost for a few days then it works fine for 7 days I checked all 3 thermistor and they all where in spec 15k ohms in ice water . I checked the thermo Disc it 65-20 and it’s closed under 65f and opens above . I replaced the control board and it did not fix it . I found the wiring diagram and see there is another thermistor on the evaporator I did not see it when I it a part on evaporator . I watched your other videos and see that I can check it from the wire harrness on the board so I will do this next . My other question is if I jump pin 9 and 11 and manually put it in defrost will the compressor stop or will it still run ? Thx for any help you can give me . This refrigerators at my mom’s house, so otherwise I would’ve tested it already. Thank you.
Awesome video.
Thanks Neil for the kind words! Glad you liked it. Stay in touch!
Thanks for you video. Confirmed my logic when I first check my fridge. In my case both (freezer and fridge) were really warm. The fan in the back worked, but the compressor is not running.... however it has a big sticker that says that uses DC current. Any idea which is the voltage value I should be looking for? have you worked with DC compressors? Thank you again Andy
Thanks Alfredo, you're welcome.
Yes, I have. The main control boards only job is to send a signal voltage to the compressors inverter board. This is usually around 3.5 to 5vdc. This tells the inverter board to output the proper voltage which I do no know off hand.
However, if you'll send me your model number to Graceappliance@gmail.com I can reply back with your tech sheet which will answer this question for us.
Thanks!
Andy
@@GraceAppliance thank you, I will as soon as I return home
Hello. Great video. I have a GE Cafe refrigerator. Thought it was the inverter board after checking voltage both at the orange/black for 120V and the red/blk for I believe 4 to 7. All voltages check out. Check resistance at compressor and again around 6.8 to 7.1. Swapped out inverter board for new GE OEM and plugged fridge in. Compressor is running and fan is running. After having the fridge on all night, there still isnt a drop in temperature. Both sides are above the recommended. Baffled, could you give me some guidance? Thanks.
Hey, if the compressor has been running without cutting in and out in a short amount of time, you should definately be seeing a notable drop in temp in the freezer. Within 20 minutes or so, you should notice a temp drop.
If not, it's sounding like a failed compressor (or major refrigerant leak)
To confirm this fact, you can remove the back wall inside the freezer to expose the evaporator coils.
You should be seeing a light coating of frost on the majority of the coils. In your case, the coils will probably have little to no frost on them. This would confirm a failed compressor or refrigerant issue unfortunately.
Andy, hugs you're the best :)
Thanks! I'm glad to be helpful. Stay in touch.
Hey Andy, I'm sure this wasn't what you had in mind when you said keep in touch. But im hoping you can please help me again. What could cause a motherboard to keep failing? Background...I have the same test fridge you have in the video.
My fridge stopped cooling a month ago only the interior lights were on. I changed out the 200D6221G009 board. The original didnt have any burnt areas, but when I put the new one it instantly worked for about a month. Today the panel started to act weird...flashing 0s across. So I pulled the fridge out to disconnect it and try to diagnose the panel. I heard a click then everything turned off again except the interior lights. Its still plugged in n rechecked the fuse. I think the motherboard is bad again after just 1 month.
I have a ge fridge modle# gse25eshb ss. 3 years old tonight it stopped getting cold. Clean coils regularly so they are clean but on the face of the fride it says it is 34f *freezer side* 20f *fridge side* . But the fan and compressor will not kick on . Now I can go in diagnostic mode and kick them on manually and it seems to work good although I can not tell if it is getting colder yet since I just did it but they do kick on and you can hear them runnint . So I was originally thinking thermostat but if it was it would probably be displaying the wrong temperature on the control board face of the refrigerator I would think. Checked to make sure the coils inside where not frozen up and they had no frost on them at all just condensation. So I guess what would you think my next step is the motherboard is bad ? I tryed running a diagnostic test but on my particular model it dies not display fault codes in letters it is giving me numbers and i cant find any codes that have numbers related to them.
But I also do not think the temperatures are reading correctly because the fridge is not 20°f . And evaporator fan and everything is functioning as it should when opening the door. Thank you in advanced for the reply
Hi Nick,
So, if the compressor has been running for 30minutes the evaporator should have frost on the majority of the rungs.
If the compressor has been running and you still don't have a light coating of frost on the coils, that would be a sealed system issue (I. E. Failing compressor, refrigerant issue, etc)
Can you varify if the compressor is running continually for you after you are able to start it up?
Hi Andy, thank you for this vid. I have a ZFSB25DMD SS, do you have any technical information on this uni? Operating pressures, and how this particular mod works
what's up I’m sorry, I don’t. However, your tech sheet may be either tucked inside the temp control housing inside the fridge (if you have this) or under the refrigerator behind the kick panel in the front. This may have the data you’re after.
Hello Andy!
I just watched your videos on the GE side by side refrigerators. My unit was warm and the compressor was not running. One of the relays on the board was clicking every 5 seconds or so. When it would click the condenser fan would twitch but not actually run. I did the tests of the j2 plug per your video. I had just shy of 13v red-white wires, nothing at the yellows. Jumpered the yellows and both fans ran. Unplugged the j2 to do a resistance test an the relays quit clicking and the compressor kicked in and ran. Unplugged the condenser fan and checked resistance at the fan and got a 1.688 reading. Checking resistance at the j2 i got a low reading like your video. So even though it will run with a jumper, does this sound like a faulty evap fan and a bad board like your video? Or a bad board and a strange resiistance reading at the j2?
It sounds like you've got a failed evaporator fan motor. The fact that you can unplug the fan motors from the board and the fridge functions as normal indicates to me that the fan motor has a short. It's almost always going to be the evaporator fan motor because it is constantly wet and the water shorts out the fan motor and gives your symptoms. However, if you wanted to double check this theory - you could unplug just the evaporator fan motor at the fan itself and see if you get the same results as you've gotten.
If so, your evaporator fan motor is bad. Side note, once you've unplugged the fans at the control board, you can take another voltage measurement on the board directly for the fan motor pins and look for 13.5vdc with the fans unplugged. If you get that voltage, your board is not at fault.
If you have a 4 wire evaporator fan motor (with no sensor attached) you'd need this fan: (ordering through these affiliate links helps the channel as we get a small commission from the purchase) WR60X10185 - amzn.to/2lgv7LZ
Or
If you have a 4 wire evaporator fan motor with the defrost sensor attached, you'd need this fan:
WR60X10074 - amzn.to/2lm5Xf7
You can purchase either the OEM versions I linked to, or an aftermarket which are cheaper. I tend to lean toward the OEM as I've never had any issues with them failing after repair, but either way is probably fine.
Please let me know if you have any questions!
Thanks,
Andy
Thanks for the info Andy! Have you done a video on evap fan replacement and I'm just not savy enough to find it? Or is that a video you have not done yet?
chad hoover hey Chad, my videos won’t usually cover disassembly / reassembly as much as they’ll cover the actual diagnosis of the issues. I just don’t focus on that nearly as much because there are some really well done videos on how to perform most of this out there already and they do better at it than I would anyway. LoL
I love Steve from PartSelect...he’s like my grandpa that I’d like to buy a drink for at some point in my life. It’s on my bucket list.
Here’s one that I like:
th-cam.com/video/d5EzKao5QCU/w-d-xo.html
goodmorning Andy i was able to do some of the test i tested the fridge and freezer fan but i tested them at the fridge and freezer side and they were fridge 1.62 kilo ohms freezer 1.665 k ohms. the fan to the shoot that moves temp looks like gerbal cart 1.459 k ohms. nest to it 2 brown wires i belive senser for it to kick it or activate 3.206 kilo ohms.
i checked the board looked clean no burn marks and resistors were not brown or black.
the capasitors were not bulged or leacky and no smell of burns. the board looked new.
1)The blue plug in video three that draws out to test the resister heaterwhat is it called so i can look it up in my board or what does it do. and the blue wire is that the defrost wire and mine has 2 defrost Rdef and Fdef, i guess front and rear. if so i can check both but what is the orange wire on the other plug?
which tests can i do to test the themometers and the sensers
Hi - Sorry I couldn't get back to you soon, I have a GE GSS25QFMC / Serial # VA225662. The fan in the back runs well, Coils are clean and the compressor runs as does the baffle on top of the refrigerator side opens and closes.
Andy - Thank you
You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful. Stay in touch.
Andy, this is a very informative video. We have a GE Profile Refrigerator (Model TFHW22R), around 26 years old, never needed servicing, 2 door side-by-sdie freezer on left/refrigerator on right. Freezer is 10F and Refrigerator is 48F. I do hear a motor sound. I pulled the Refrigerator out and the coils on the bottom had a heavy accumulation of dust which I vacuumed off and blew out with my air compressor. If I read the Flowchart correctly, I have a "Sealed System" issue which I suppose likely means low on Freon. How do you check for low Freon? What Refrigerate does this refrigerator use? I have some automobile AC compressor gauges (R132) and some Heat Pump gauges that I could use but don't know the pressures or where the Hi an Lo taps are at. The other consideration is to simply replace our Refrigerator with a more modern one but we hear a lot about newer units being so unreliable.
Hi Carl, thanks for the kind words and I’m sorry to hear about your fridge issues.
Just as a general statement, if both compartments are warm as in your case, dirty coils can cause this problem. Once cleaned and having run for 24hrs - the temp in the freezer should freezer should be sub zero (around 0’F, assuming the condenser and evaporator fans are both operational). If after this long it’s still not at temp, I would agree it’s a sealed system issue. (Note: Be sure you’ve ruled out a defrost issue as well, heavy frost on the evaporator coils and on back wall if the freezer cabinet)
This could mean low on refrigerant, but most often it means a failed compressor (I.e. a compressor that isn’t compressing as much as it should any longer).
To answer the questions about the refrigerant, it’s going to be R134a which is the same as most modern automobiles. However, dealing with sealed system jobs is not a diy task. To check pressures requires tapping in to the sealed system via valves that aren’t there currently, and looking at the low pressure side pressures. You’d then weigh in the right charge of refrigerant which is only like 4-6oz and requires some equipment most folks won’t have.
If you’ve determined it is in fact sealed system issues, the right answer is to put the money towards a new refrigerator, sorry to say!
Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!
Also, verify that it is in fact the compressor that you hear running. Should be vibrating some and be warm to the touch.
Popped the inside back cover off the Freezer compartment and noted a lot of Ice on the upper part of the coils. My Refrigerator has two heater strips and when I turned the control to Defrost the strips worked, but did not get all the ice off. Turned it back to Defrost again and neither strip was hot. Took my ohm meter and got 11.5 ohms for each strip. Assuming the Thermostat. Well, I used my heat gun to get all the Ice to melt and put it back together. Still the Temps are 20F in the Freezer, and high 40's in the Refrigerator. I'm assuming my old 26 year old Refrigerator is ready to be retired.
We have a 36 inch opening but its next to a door opening and the moulding protrudes about 3/4". Do they make new Refrigerators that are 35" ?? Or do we have to go with a 33" model?
Hey Carl,
I agree. It appears to have a sealed system issue judging from what you’ve described. I’d put the money towards a new refrigerator as well.
The width is not a standard thing. They’ll typically be somewhere between 30-36” to allow fitting through doorways. You’ll need to look at the specific model spec sheet to verify the width so it fits in your space. They also make counter depth fridges which do not stick out as much which may or may not help your situation too.
Thanks!
Keep.up the good work
hi Andy, i checked the defrost heater resistance at ther fridge it was 99.5 ohms while at freezer 58.5 ohms is that normal both are at room tempurature. the fridge thermister 12.7to13.2 ohms at 0 celsius and around 5 room temp. while the freezer 12.2 while at room temp @5.
temp defrost senser flickerd flicker 0.00 to 0.001 0.002.
i am working night shift so i am going to sleep now will check for advise in pm before i go to work.
thanks again
Hi, sorry fo the long delay.
If you look at this video, it will show you how to jumper the heater circuit to visually check your defrost heater. If it glows orange the heater and high limit thermostat are both good. th-cam.com/video/XeZfpB7ok90/w-d-xo.html
In your case, it sounds like your freezer temp sensor and the defrost sensor are not giving correct readings. I’d change both of these based on your test results.
Is it normal to manually defrost thick as a block ice twice in a month ?what would you recommend I do .
good morning Andy did the forced defrost and both fridge and freezer came on what is next step
Do you know the part number for the seal around metal cover that goes over coils?
What is your model number please?
Hi Andy, thanks for making these educational videos in trouble shooting the refrigerator. I have a GE side by side fridge that the damper door stays closed at all times. I have replaced the control board for one of the large capacitors that blew from the bottom and scorched the plastic liner between the board and the housing. I have also replaced the heating element at the bottom of the coils for it was burned out. On the Fridge side I have replaced the temperature sensor twice, once before the control board went out, the second time after I installed the new control board. So far I do not see any frost on the panel where the coils are located. I do not have any thing that is blocking the air flow, I have even taken the cover off the damper door to see if it stays open. I have manually open the damper door, it stays open for a couple of minutes but then it closes. I have even raised the temperature in the fridge side and the door stays shut it will not open. When I manually open the damper door I do feel the cold air flow into the fridge side. When I unplug the unit from the AC outlet and wait about 20min and re-plug the unit back into the AC outlet, the damper door opens but after a few minutes the door closes. I have repeated this step twice and the door still closes after a couple of minutes. Can you please advice on damper door staying closed? Thank you.
David Mena Hey David, you’re most welcome. Thanks for watching.
Please send your model number for your refrigerator. When installing these control boards, there are certain models that require you snip a wire during on the Fridge harness upon reinstalling the control board in order for the refrigerator section to work correctly.
I can verify this for you if you’ll send the model number. It’s on a sticker inside the refrigerator section.
The fridge model number is GSS25IFPAWW. Thanks for your quick response.
David Mena I’m sorry, one more thing.
Does your serial number start with any of the following?
TD2, VD2, ZD2, AF2, DF2, FF2, GF2, HF2, LF2, MF2, RF2, or SF2?
Here are the first five: LF272
Thanks David, the only time I've come across this scenario is when I'd forgotten to follow the steps listed in the installation instructions for the control board replacement.
Here's a PDF of the install instructions. See specifically step number 2
Double check on your control board that you in fact snipped the wire on PIN #2. On the harness for the control board You'll see a large white plastic cylindrical piece that has 2 wires coming from it and leading to pins number 1 and 2 on the J1 connector (top right of the control board).
www.scribd.com/doc/115029528/WR55X10942-Installation-Instructions
It's the wire that's 2nd from the left that you'll need to snip. Make sure the refrigerator is unplugged before doing this. This eliminates one of the 2 temperature sensors in your refrigerator section, but it necessary when installing the updated control board because the multiple temp sensors give conflicting signals to the control board and it does whacky things with the damper motor.
To be on the safe side, don't snip the wire super close to the plastic cylinder piece, but leave some slack to work with in case you needed to reattach the wires in the event it did not work, but if yours is not cut already, I'm very certain this is your issue.
Let me know how it goes.
I have a GE side by side refrigerator. When the fridge stopped working, I replaced the heater element because it tested defective. The fridge then seemed to work fine. After a couple of days, the fridge stopped working. I unplugged the fridge for about a minute and replugged and it seemed to start work fine and returned to required temperatures. It is still working now after 6 hrs. Both the condenser and evaporator fans seem to be working. I am waiting to see if the fridge will fail again, since the problem is intermittent I find it hard to diagnose.
Great video but the link for the flowchart did not work. I can see it from the video though so that should work
Thank you
Yay got fridge to get cold again verrry cold now in low 30s !! Ice was blocking off the bottom return and i chipped it away most of it but stopped when I realized I might damage something . Ice somehow melted away . Checking it every day on ice and if I find water at the bottom which used to collect there . So far since Saturday verrry good .
Frank Montez nice work Frank!
You could have had a clogged defrost drain line. This will cause icebuild up and water build up where it should not be. You’re right, it’s better to stop and walk away when you start chipping ice. It’s never happened to me, but I’ve heard of people chipping ice and puncturing their sealed system and letting all of the refrigerant out. That would be a really. bad. day!
You might check behind the fridge, behind the access panel where the compressor is, you’ll find the defrost drain line which you can remove. You can blow air through this tube and should be able to do so. You may find that it’s clogged up with junk there.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Would you recommend that the 1st step should be to check the coils on the bottom of refrigerator and clean with brush/vac if they are clogged with dirt/dust? This will usually be the problem.
Hey Andy so i need to check the sealed system after i already know that the start relay, the compressor, and the fan is working and my defrost thermostat isnt stuck in defrost mode. What should i be looking for next?
Does my unit need freon you think?
Thanks its been sitting for a few years unused.
The ooo Girl hey, check to be sure the coils behind the fridge are not covered in dust. If not, check that both fans are running (you have 2) one inside the freezer and another behind the fridge by the compressor.
If your compressor and both fans are running at least 30 minutes (with clean coils) your freezer should be sub zero or well on its way.
If not, that is when I start looking at sealed system issues. You can verify this by removing the back wall inside the freezer to expose the evaporator coils. You should see a light coating of frost on most all of the rungs. If not, that’s an indicator of a sealed system issue.
If you wanted to send me a picture of it to GraceAppliance@gmail.com I’m happy to confirm what you’re seeing. That frost pattern is very telling of the health of the system.
Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance hey thanks for the reply!coils are not dirty, and there is only one fan because the coils are on the back of the fridge not under and the fan is working ive removed the covers to expose the freezer evaporator coils, there is no frost. Could the reason both fridge and freezer compartments are warm be because either the defrost thermostat is bad or because the general thermostat is bad? Besides those two things im guessing there is a hole in the lines and the freon needs to be replaced.. ...
@@theooogirl3495 hey,
I know you said the compressor does work.
If the compressor is running, it is not stuck in defrost cycle.
If the compressor is running for at least 30 minutes, you should at a minimum have some type of frost build up on the evaporator. If not, you're correct this would be a sealed system issue. This could be that it is out of refrigerant due to a leak or a weak compressor which has failed. Most commonly neither of these issues are worth fixing due to the high cost. Refrigerant leaks are less expensive to solve if they can be found, but one can end up following a rabbit trail trying to solve these issues too. Often, it's better off putting the money toward a new fridge.
I'm sorry for the bad news on it.
Whats an appropriate fan voltage? Or where can I check for my fridge model.
Emmanuel Velasco hi, if it’s a GE fridge check out this video which will walk you through how to check the fans.
th-cam.com/video/PhQKqF5MgDE/w-d-xo.html
Thanks!
Andy
Hi Andy, Need a bit of help. GE PSI23MGPBBB 2004 vintage. Board got fried in a power outage on generator. Burned R12 just below transformer. I put in new board, WR55X10942 which should be correct. Now, refrig side only gets to about 50 F. Freezer is -2 F. Evap fan is running. Another issue is I get chips when I select cubes. Everything was normal before board fried. Before I go further on the coils and dampers, I am thinking maybe these boards have different versions depending on the exact model. Is that a possibility? Perhaps the calibration is different for different sensors (need correct board-sensor pairing?) which could result in not cool enuf, and the wiring not interfacing properly for front board selections. I have watched your relevant videos and am struggling to think the fried board coincides with something else like frozen coils, and/or damper door issues. One other thing I noticed when measuring on the old board. I was getting about 5 volts where you were specifying about 12.5 v for a couple measurements of the control wiring. Maybe that was because of burned R12, but maybe different boards?
Hey WQTX650,
Sorry to hear about your issues.
There is a wiring modification that needs to be done on certain models which requires disabling one of your 2 refrigerator temp sensors. It gives these exact damper issues you’re describing, but am not sure about the ice issue you mention.
If you’ll send the first 5 digits of your serial number I can happily confirm if your fridge needs this modification.
Thanks!
Andy
@@GraceAppliance Hi again Andy, My serial number is SG416493. I got an info sheet explaining about 2 possible mods with the board. I cannot find it at the moment. I am quite sure the mods only applied to bottom freezer models and were to be ignored otherwise. The mods involved cutting wires in one case, and removing a capacitor in another. My unit does not have the capacitor mentioned and is not a bottom freezer model. Mine is older, 2004, and has about 8 screws holding the board cover, not 3 screws like in your video. One last thing, the replacement board had pins for J14 and J5 which the original board did not. There is an extra plug on my harness which looks like it would go to J14 if that old board had the pins there. I only connected the plugs to the new board that were connected to the old board. Thanks for your help. Bill
@@wqtx6502
Hey, you're right that it does apply to ALL bottom mount freezers, but there is also a list of fridges that it does apply to as well that are side by sides. Yours does not appear to be affected by this list. See here:
www.scribd.com/doc/115029528/WR55X10942-Installation-Instructions
I would double check to be sure that you were in fact sent a WR55x10942 (or WR55x10942P). It seems odd that you'd have additional plugs.
Feel free to send me pictures of the two boards to graceappliance@gmail.com if you'd like me to take a look.
I have not run in to this exact issue before. I'm at a bit of a loss as to why you'd have an extra plug unless you have gotten an incorrect board perhaps.
Having looked up your schematic, it does appear that the WR55x10942 is what's called for. :-/
Great video for trouble shooting.
Where can I get service manual for FF187E so I know where to find timer and control board etc ?
Hi Anthony,
I'm sorry to say I'm not able to find any diagrams to help you either.
However, if you have a defrost timer, it will usually be either behind the panel behind the refrigerator near the compressor area. Or alternatively, you may find its tucked in to the top inside portion of the refrigerator section. You'll see a small hole about 1/2 wide and should look like a spot to put a flat blade screw driver which allows you to advance the defrost cycle manually by turning clockwise. You'll hear an audible clicking as you advance it.
I hope this helps. Andy
Hi Andy I replace the heather element after test was burn but still no working the compresor stays on all the time is posible to convert this model to analog eliminaten the comp board
Hi Guillermo, I'm afraid not. I don't think there is a way to do this.
Does yours have a control board that's on the compressor itself?
Thanks
Thanks for your videos. Im trying to repair my GE side by side( model # ESH25XGPACC ). I found A contact on the large relay on my main board is burned. The compressor will not run. The part number on my main board Is WR55X10942. When I try to buy a replacement board they give me a different part number.(WR55X10956). I’ve tried 2 of these boards and the compressor still won’t run. Also,I’ve replaced the compressor relay, the temperature sensor and the thermistor sensor behind the freezer access panel. Any suggestions??
Hey Brian,
I agree, the board you need based on your model is a Wr55x10942. Since it had a burned relay solder joint, I would start with the correct board and it is likely going to solve your issues.
www.graceappliancediy.com/products/ge-wr55x10942-refrigerator-main-control-board-1?_pos=1&_sid=b0b2d4711&_ss=r
Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks!
Thanks Andy.
i put a clamp amp meter to the wire harness going to the compressor and it gave me 0.13amp. i had it set on 2-20 amps ac.
sam d it should read about 1.2-1.5A once it’s been running a bit. Your meter may be set on too high of a read out which is why you’re getting the reading you are. If your freezer is over frosting the problem is not your compressor so I wouldn’t worry about further tests there. Thanks
did the test both heating elements came on in fridge and freezer sent you an e mail about it
Thank you Andy for awsome video, i have a Samsung rf 67 which is about 11 years old. both freezer and fridge are out. problem started with over icing, then system stoped working. condencer fan is running condenser is clean now, and compresser is running and so is the fan. the refrigerater defrost senser was not giving me any continuity ohms reading when i had ice pack on it. i thought that was the problem, i orderd a new one still same problem and still i am not getting any ohms reading on the new one either.
please advise.
sam d hey Sam, what’s your full model number?
Hi Andrew it is Samsung RF267ABPN
IT IS A TWIN COOLER IT SEEMS THE FRIDGE IS MAKING A LITTLE COOL AIR FOR THE SHELF AREA BUT THE MAIN SYSTEM AND THE FREEZER NON
RF267ABPN
I have the Start Relay (2 pin) and it reads 5.5 ohms and does not rattle. I have the Overload (1 pin) and it reads 0.6 ohms. In short, everything works on my GE GBS22KBSBCC refrigerator except the fridge will not go below 41F and the freezer will not go below 33F. So, what would not allow strong cooling .....if the start relay was bad or the capacitor? Defroster, thermistors, evaporator fan, condenser fan are all working and the coils are spotless. I even checked the three prongs on the condenser and got 8.4 ohm on the two main prongs, 4.5 ohms on the left and 4.2 ohms on the right. My Embraco 1PH condenser has a label on the side reading "LRA of 11.5 EGU 70HLC' 115 - 127 V". My multimeter reads 0.8 amps when it is running. The Capacitor multimeter read 11.85 uF (210 VAC 50/60 Hz @ 12 uF). Some history - In July 2016 I did have a technician add R 134a and in October 2018 I had to add an evaporator thermistor since my evaporator coils were an iceberg and it was not triggering the defrost mode; the refrigerator was warm but the freezer worked fine. NOTE: I made a video of the Start Relay arcing with the Overload when the compressor was called for power; there was just a click sound but no compressor. Then, 90 seconds later, it called on it again and the compressor hummed away. When I took it apart again the Star Relay gave the same reading but I noted it was VERY hot. Could this Relay still be bad but not activating all the time thus overheating because it is sometimes working? If so, maybe this is why the temperatures cannot catch up. With that said, I do not know the spec for my compressor amps but had some handwritten notes from the 2006 technician (when he filled my R143a) stating the original amps were 0.7 and after he added 4.5# the amps were 1.55. His notes also read "spec = 1.5 to 1.7 amps). Should I purchase a new Relay and, if so, is it "good practice" to purchase a new Overload, also? They are very pricey at $76 and $80, respectively......for a piece of plastic! ANY direction would be greatly appreciated by you.
P.S. You are the only one that displayed a Flow Diagram.....LOVE flowcharts!
Did you find a solution?
@@dmnicky27 Hi! Yes. I located some information stating the Compressor Amps should read ~ 1.6 where mine was ~0.8 therefore indicating low "Freon". I purchased a can of "Freon" with a hose, gage, and piercing kit. My initial reading was WAY in the negative psig. I added "Freon" until it stabilized ~ +2 psig. It will be a year next month and all is good. 😉
Hi my side by side is getting cold but the controll panel on the freezer side doesn't go to a - it just say in the plus oil I change it
My problem was the fan behind the rear panel in freezer was not turning. After removing those panels I gave it a little nudge and problem solved!
Following the flow chart, I end up at "check sealed system". Where do I go from there?
My freezer started getting warmer a week ago. I unplugged the fridge for 48 hrs then plugged it back in and it worked: got as cold as -10F! Then I unplugged it again to see if the problem was permenantly fixed, and the freezer can't get ice cold once again. By placing my hand on the comoressor, I know it's running by the vibration I feel. Can you tell me why a compressor that runs and still has a charged system obviously, still wouldn't make the freezer cold after that one time? I always thought if the comoressor runs and you have a freon/charged system, it can't help but make the evaporator cold. I'm stumped. Thank you so much For any help.
Hey Jet,
It could be that you have a restriction (I. E. Clog) in the sealed system. It can definately cause these symptoms.
If you're not seeing heavy frost build up on the evaporator (a defrost issue) after the compressor has been running for at least 45 minutes you should see a light frost build up on the evaporator. If the majority of the rungs of the evaporator do not have a coating of frost, it does sound like a refrigerant restriction. Most commonly these restrictions will happen at the filter/dryer a copper peice filled with bead shot near the compressor. It looks like a copper hot dog. To repair a restriction would require pretty major repairs and often does not make sense due to the cost.
If you wanted to send a picture of the evaporator after the compressors been running feel free Graceappliance@gmail.com
Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks much for your reply sir. If the system has never been breached or tampered with, what causes an internal restriction? I would think it would remain healthy indefininately until something dramatic injured the system....The fridge was working perfectly up till last week. It is16 years old by the way and I was hoping to keep it going much longer.How long can one expect to have a side by side fridge remain alive that was manufactured in 2003? Is it worth keeping it alive? I know the GE's are known to have the compressor relay on the motherboard burn out. I replaced the relay 3 years ago and it was working great since then. Do you think this could be the issue once again?
@@millionpianos hey, if your compressor is running and no cutting on and off, you can rule out a control board issue.
The filter dryer I mentioned is designed to filter out impurities in the refrigerant and gets clogged over time, but as far as why they have impurities I'm not sure why. The refrigerant itself won't go bad for the life of the fridge, but you can have these kinds of issues, compressor failures, leaks etc etc.
Given the age of the refrigerator, you'd be better off not repairing due to the cost of repair.
But send me a picture if you wanted and that will tell us tons.
Hello, we have a GE profile side by side refrigerator. Freezer at 22 degrees and fridge at 89 degrees. The defrost heater in freezer is working. And the fan in the freezer is working. Also smells of electrical burning. Any ideas? Thank you very much
Chris Cleary hey Chris,
Is the defrost heater on at the same time the compressor is running?
I also have a video called “visual inspection of a control board”. I’d inspected the control board behind the fridge to see if you might have any burned connectors or solder joints on the back side.
Hi Andy, thank you for all the informative videos. The compressor on my SxS GE is not running. I followed your flowchart, and measured the voltage to the compressor on the control board (J8) and it reads reads ~0.012V. However, if I disconnect the compressor relay from the compressor and measure J8 again, it reads ~120V. I was expecting ~120V in both cases. Is that normal? If not, any tips on what the issue could be? Thank you!
Hey!
Yeah, that sounds odd to me.
With the power off, I'd check the pins on compressor itself.
With the relay off the compressor, do an Ohm test between each pin. You should get two lower readings and one higher reading. The two lower readings should add up to the higher reading. Like 4.4, 4.4, and 8.8.
Something like this. Also, check each pin to see if you continuity between that pin and a copper tube on your compressor. You're wanting to see if the compressor has shorted to ground.
Let me know what you find.
Thanks!
Thank you for getting back to me, Andy. I've tested the compressor and it seems to check out as you've described. I'm baffled 😕
bigT you may try, unplugging the fridge, remove the two wires leading to the compressor relays. Restore power, take voltage reading at these two wires. If you’re getting 120v there at these two wires, it sounds like bad relays.
Another test you can try is that you can take what’s called a hard start relay (I prefer RCO810...even though some recommend rco410) anyway, you can hook it up to the compressor as shown in the instructions. Then, apply 120v to the rco810 power wires. At this point your compressor should come to life. If not, it’s a locked up compressor. If so, you can rule out a failed compressor.
It sounds like a short somewhere to me though based on that symptom you’re having and this process is just a way you can help isolate the component that’s shorted. Seems most likely that it would be a short with the relay or compressor.
I just measured again from the board (J8) and it was reading around ~70V with the compressor disconnected. Measured the two wires you mentioned, and also getting same reading. Could my motherboard be acting up?
bigT I agree, if you’re seeing inconsistent voltage output from the same two pins at different times, that does sound like a failing control board.
Those are the absolute hardest to troubleshoot because it will often not rear it’s head while you’re looking at it. In your case, it sounds like you’ve gotten lucky!
If your fridge uses a wr55x10942, if you’ll order through this affiliate link it helps the channel greatly.
Thanks and let me know if you have any questions!
Andy
Thanks it helped
But I want to know what number is the warmest in refrigerator
And same for freezer
How to read it from high to low
It will usually say near the knobs themselves. What brand is your fridge?
Hi Andy, Manickam here. Awesome and informative video. Like your flow chart though narrowing down my issue still little tricky. :). We have Maytag SxS and 15 years old model. Freezer works fine and refrigerator doesn't cool. Also, When cut off (kind of fan or motor sound stops), occurs Refrigerator switch off completely and need to start the Breaker switch again. Replaced BiMetal thermo and didn't help and issue still persists. Can you please suggest? Appreciate your help..!!! Thanks.
Manickam Vijayabanu when you say the freezer works fine, is it keeping things frozen rock solid.
If you’ll send your model number (on a tag inside the refrigerator) I can take a look for you.
I believe all monograms will have 2 evaporators, one in the freezer and one in the fridge. So, the systems work independently of each other.
If the freezer is staying around 0F, you can rule out a sealed system issue.
I don’t believe the fridge side will have any defrost components to go with the evaporator. It uses the fridges above freezing temperatures to naturally defrost the evaporator.
To start with, I’d check to see that the evaporator fan is working properly.
Hi Andy, Thanks for your quick response. Here is my model # - MayTag - MSD2641KEW. A quick observation. When changed the BiMetal last week, have noticed the evaporator got ice surrounded on it. Please suggest your thoughts and possible component to replace. Thanks again.! Appreciated.!
Andy, Sorry missed to update in last reply. Yes. Freezer keep things rock solid and no issues at all. Thanks.
Manickam Vijayabanu hey, you’re most welcome!
I must have misread your first comment and responded as if you had a GE monogram. You of course have a Maytag as you mentioned. You have a single evaporator and single defrost system.
You have what’s called a adaptive defrost control board which is quite suspect as the culprit at this point.
I’ll be honest in saying I don’t have a ton of experience with troubleshooting this particular fridge so I may be of limited help. However, I’ve found the tech sheet for your particular model and am happy to email it to you if you’d like. If you can email me at GraceAppliance@gmail.com I can respond with the document.
It has the diagnostic steps to help in troubleshooting the defrost control board which I think is the next best step in your situation.
Thanks! Andy
Hi andy. If everything is running and cleaned and should be cold . What now?. I have a frigidaire model # FFHS2322MBE was giving to me a week ago . I plugged it in left it alone for 24 hours and it still not cool. The thermostat is showing H1 Which I'm sure means temp is too hi. And the fridge is too warm. I was told to unplug it for 5 min. And then let it sit for another 24 hours. I have done it 5 times now. And still showing the H1. Everything seems to be running fine though. Just not cool.
Hi,
The things I’d check is to verify that both fans at working. You’ve got a fan behind the fridge and an evaporator fan. If the one behind the fridge is turning (condenser fan) the compressor should also be running. If one is running and not the other, that’s an issue that we could look at.
If the compressor is running and the freezer is warm, the evaporator fan should be running as well.
Now, if all these are running and not cutting on and off, after about 45min of run time, you should notice a notable difference in the freezer temp.
If not, I’d want to know how the evaporator inside the freezer looks by removing the interior back wall of the freezer section. The majority of the coils should then be covered in a light coating of frost. If not, that indicates a sealed system issue.
Let me know what you’re seeing with respect to the compressor running and fans.
Thanks!
the issue started over frosting in the freezer but the last 5 days there is no cooling in either the freezer or fridge
Thank you. I followed your chart. My G.E. fridge is not cold enough. It just started getting warmer about a week ago. The freezer staying at 20 and the fridge staying at 53.It's not fluctuating from these numbers after all the work I've done to it. I've cleaned the the condenser coils. Did a continuity test on the compressor, and it's fine. I also tested the start relay switch, and it is also good. I removed the evaporator cover and I noticed a light build up of ice on one side of the coils. I don't know why it's not getting colder. Perhaps a T-stat problem? Thank you very much. Any info appreciated. By the way, my refrigerator is 24 years old this month. Perhaps it's time for a new one, but I'm trying to do all I can to bring it back to life first. :)
Hey,
So, the evaporator coils should be getting a light coating of frost on almost all of the rungs of the evaporator. If your compressor and fans are all running and not cutting on and off, after about 30 minutes of run time you should see a light coating of frost on the evaporator.
If not, that would be a problem with the sealed system and probably not good news.
If you want to take a picture of the evaporator after it's been running you can send it to Graceappliance@gmail.com
Thanks!
how long should it take to cool after you clean the coils?
It will depend on too many factors to say for sure, but with the doors closed and empty it should be done to 0’F in the freezer after 24hrs. Probably sooner so long as the compressor is still in good shape.
hi there thank you for the video. Where did you get this troubleshooting chart please?
Hi, you’re welcome. There is a link in the description. Thanks
Thank you for the prompt response. I was hoping I could pick your brains too. I have two fridges. One in house other on in garage. Both of them are down. One has bad ice build up in freezer. I suspect it s the defrost thermostat since this model doesnt have a timer or an adaptive defrost control. The other one is the one that baffles me the most. Everything seems to be working but both the freezer are warm I mean room temperature warm. Any thoughts?
Nick Zane on the first one, you will have some type of defrost timer whether that be an old school mechanical timer or a newer control board.
If you’ll send the model number I can give a little more detail on what to check. Now, it could be either a bad timer, a bad heater, or defrost sensor / thermostat. To properly diagnose it, you’d need a multimeter if you don’t have one.
Now the 2nd fridge, if you can hear/feel your compressor running, your evaporator fan inside the freezer runs, and the fan behind the fridge (condenser) fan is running, and you have clean coils - the freezer should be sub zero.
If not, it would likely be a sealed system issue (bad compressor, low on refrigerant, etc)
Let me know if you have any questions.
Great video. Im not a handy guy at all, but a week ago I changed the defroster because both freezer and fridge were warm. I defrosted al the ice in the coils with a heat gun and replaced the heater. It was working great but 2 day ago only fridge is warm. Any advice? Appreciate it.
Hey Eduardo,
This definately sounds like a defrost issue because you can temperarily get it to work ok by defrosting it, but then it goes back to a warm fridge after the defrost issue returns.
There are 4 parts that can cause a defrost issue (on a GE side by side refrigerator, if that's what you have) The control board, the defrost heater, the defrost sensor on top of the evaporator, and the defrost high limit thermostat.
I have a video called how diagnose a bad control board - defrost issues. I'd start by watching this video and let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks!
Andy
@@GraceAppliance the defrost heater is what I changed last week. Tomorrow I'll check the other the other parts. Thanks for your prompt response, greatly appreciated. Will.let you.know.
Eduardo 769 I understand. I just wanted to make sure you knew it could also be the other 3 parts. If you have an ohm meter it will make the testing much easier. Let me know if I can help. Thanks
Hi Andy I had to turn off the main breaker and notice the panel on my ge side x side panel stopped working. Can't figure out how to reset it. Please help. Thank You.
Virginia Garland hi Virginia,
Sorry to hear about the issues! Hopefully it’s at least cooling at this point.
There isn’t really a ‘reset’ so to speak, outside of unplugging it and plugging it back in.
So, if you have a multimeter, you can test for proper voltage between the main control board (behind the fridge) and the touch panel on the front of the fridge.
This video will help with that:
th-cam.com/video/ViFpwH6_WrM/w-d-xo.html
If you have correct voltage (13.5vdc) at the main control, but not the front board, I’d check the connector behind the kick panel by the freezer door hinge. This plug has the tendency to get corroded and cause connection issues.
Feel free to ask if you have any issues. Thanks!
Thank you for this vital info which I will use and when I get it working I will let you know in order to pass info on to other. Have a nice day and thank you again. @@GraceAppliance
@@virginiagarland6602 you're most welcome. I'm glad I could be of some help.
If you run in to any snags feel free to reach out.
Andy
Goodmorning Andy, the fridge seems like it is clicking like a relay is out i am thinking the compresser relay switch is out. Is there a way to test this? it is model Samsung model RF267ABPN.
Hi, Thanks.
So, your compressor should be running if your condenser fan motor is running. If it is not, if could be either a bad control board, a bad relay, or a bad compressor.
The easiest way to test would be (with the fridge unplugged) remove the relay from the compressor. You'll see 3 holes on the relays that plug on to the 3 pins on the compressor. You should be getting voltage 120vac between 2 of these holes on the relay.
So, i'd start by testing voltage at the two wires coming in to the relay (once plugged in obviously). If you have voltage there, the control board is doing it's job. If not, it's a bad control board.
If you do have voltage, you can then test for 120vac on the other side of the relay. If you do not have voltage there, it's bad relays. If you do have 120vac there it would likely be a failed compressor.
I hope this makes sense. Let me know if you have any questions.
Andy
Goodmorning Andy, sorry for calling you Andrew that is my sons name. you make perfect sence and your videos are super awsome. I checked the voltage on the compresser relay and it gave 122 volts on both sides of the lower piece. Its a 2 piece relay and the positive on that relay is on the top side. the circuit board did some clicking before the 122.2 volt displayed on both bottom sides of relay.
I checked the ohms on the compresser it was bottom two 12.1, left side 9.0, right side 3.3, i know the videos were saying 10 by 6 by 4. Is my compressor off and bad.
Thanks again Andy for all your assistance. the compressor runs with the fan, it seems as if the vibration on it is not very strong it is a little hot and the copper pipes out of it the one to the condenser was little warm then it did not feel as warm the other one fealt little cooler. the whole issue started with the freezer being over icing. do you think it is low on freon, i have never had yo add to it before, and it is 11 years old and both fridge and freezer are out.
thanks again i am working nights fixing to sleep a little i only got 45 min sleep yesterday. Thanks again for all your help.
i put a clamp amp meter to the wire harness going to the compressor and it gave me 0.13amp. i had it set on 2-20 amps ac.
I have a firgidaire side by side. The refrigerator compartment is not cooling. The damper is functioning properly. There is ice build up on the coils inside the freezer section which is blocking the vent in the bottom wall between the freezer and fridge section. When I thaw the fridge out and there is no more ice, the fridge section cools properly for a few days. I suspect there is a problem with the defrost system, but not sure what to check. Oh yea, the freezer section is building up quite a bit of frost, and you can hear a sucking sound when you open the fridge section. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.
Have you found a solution? This is my exact situation with my Frigidaire side by side.
@@heathercarter9741 no, not yet. From everything I have watched, I believe it is either the defrost timer, thermostat, or heater. It's frustrating because the cost of getting a repairman to fix it (likely 200-300), I could get another used fridge for about the same price...
@@jsantaite1 any solution, I have a Frigidaire side by side cooling for a few hours and then allowing the temperature to rise again. Which kind of sounds like your issue, maybe lasting a day at good temp and the next back up.
@@stephenwooten6413 no. Still doing the same thing. It is something related to the defrost function.
@@jsantaite1 I just took my covers off and seen my freezer radiator completely covered in ice, checked the heater and it’s good. So I either have an issue with the component that causes it to kick on or it completely froze up. Thawed it all off and plugged back in and temperature is dropping so far. At the bottom of the fridge there is a vent and mine was iced covered, so no air flow and that’s where I started from. Hope you get it working.
GREAT VIDEO ! Our freezer is working but the refrigerator is very warm almost hot. What do you suspect ? NOT A GOOD TIME FOR THIS TO HAPPEN. Thanks. GE Profile side by side Model PSS26NSWC SS
Hey, I know it! There’s never a good time for a breakdown. I’m sorry!
If your freezer is keeping things frozen rock solid, that’s good news. Your fridge gets it cold air from the freezer.
So, if you don’t have a defrost issue in the freezer you should hear the fan running inside the freezer. This should be pushing the air through a vent In the top of the fridge section. Make sure air is coming through there. If it’s not, you may have a broken damper door or it could be frozen shut.
Also make sure food is not blocking any of the air vents. That’s the first things that come to mind.
@@GraceAppliance Thank you, I will check out your recommendations. PS I have had the refrigerator unplugged now for 3 days now so it is definitely not frozen. after three days I plugged it back and let it run for 45 minutes the freezers ice cold and the refrigerator side is hot it was up to 82 degrees. Thanks again
What could cause only the top evaporator coil out of 5 coils (where the freon is entering the condenser) to be cold but the rest of the coils to be NOT cold? The air coming out of the air baffle on top of the fridge is warm but the compressor seems to be working since there is frost on the first coil but the rest of the coils are not cold which is causing the blown air to be too warm. Im thinking the fact that 4 out of 5 coils are warm is causing this issue. Any ideas?
Hey LasVegas,
If your evaporator is not fully coated in a light frost (95%+/-), both fans are working, the condenser coils are clean, and the compressor is running continually then unfortunately you have a failed compressor (running but not compressing) or a leak in the refrigerant lines. A sealed system issue if some kind.
It's going to be bad news for that fridge I'm sorry to say. Typically this will not be economical for repair due to the cost of sealed system repairs.
I hope it's helpful.
We discovered that our problem with a warm fridge (the freezer section was ok) resulted from the rotating part of the motor for the evaporator fan getting a bit gunked up (after 22 years spinning within an electric field) such that sometimes the fan/motor did not start to spin (to push cooled air down into the fridge), but the fan/motor would spin if given a slight push to get it started. Sometimes it started okay on its own when the compressor started but sometimes it didn't. When the power was off, the fan/motor could be manually spun a bit, but did not spin freely. I removed the evaporator fan/motor (as per a video at th-cam.com/video/YYVEaTJnOxA/w-d-xo.html) and cleaned the rotating motor component with special electrical-contact-cleaner spray to remove a black residue coating where the motor spins, until the fan/motor would manually spin freely, then reassembled. One caution is when I was putting back in one of the screws holding the motor assembly in place, I pressed a bit too hard and cracked the plastic housing, but repaired that with crazy glue.
Nice work!
Sometimes just little adjustments is all it takes. Very cool. Keep a close eye on it though. The times I've run in to a motor that's quit once, it is troublesome from then on.
Fingers crossed for you though.
Thanks!
Hi Andy,
Thank you for creating these informative Videos. I have a Kenmore Side-by-Side refrigerator.
Model# 253-56512400. Recently, I have noticed that when the compressor turns "ON" the evaporator fan tries to turn "ON" too. It takes the evaporator fan couple of tries to start. My refrigerator is working fine for now. But I think soon the evaporator fan will fail. I have been searching for a solution to this problem on the internet. I will appreciate if you could guide me where to look to resolve this problem. Now, it takes eight to ten tries for the evaporator fan to kick in. Thank you
Hi Imran,
You're most welcome. I'm glad they are helpful.
Sorry to hear about the issues with your fan. To proceed you'd need a multimeter to verify voltages as this could either be a weak fan motor or a failed control board.
This video will walk you through how to verify which one it would be.
th-cam.com/video/PhQKqF5MgDE/w-d-xo.html
Please let me know if you have any questions though.
Thanks!
Andy
Hi Imran,
I just noticed that you have a Kenmore side by side and not a GE.
However, the process will be the same, but I'd recommend you take a voltage reading at the plug for the evaporator fan. If you'll let me know what voltage readings you find, It will help me in the next steps.
Thanks!
On the second scenario I couldn't see the flowchart. You didn't zoom in on this part.
Hi, there is a link on the description to the flowchart. Thanks
Let me know if you have any questions.
my compressor and fans all run but not cooling.....lines on both high pressure and low pressure are slightly cool and there is no air flow on the refrigerator side....i can't figure whats wrong....these LG's compressors go bad a lot but since it runs i don't know what's wrong
Is there an email I can send a question - thinking that I may need a new refrigerator - I just need an honest opinion - crazy especially after watching your videos !!! Respectfully, Stan
Sure, no problem.
Graceappliance@gmail.com
How do I check the sealed system? My refrigerator is too warm and everything else on the flow chart checks out, except this step. Please help.