Troubleshooting Thermistor Problems in Refrigerators
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 พ.ย. 2024
- This video from Sears PartsDirect shows how to troubleshoot problems with your refrigerator’s thermistor. The thermistor detects the temperature in the fresh food section of the refrigerator. The electronic control board monitors the thermistor and controls the refrigerator temperature based on thermistor signals. A thermistor that's not working could send the wrong information to the control board, but the problem could also be with the control board, or with wires that connect the two. This video will show you how to check resistance on your thermistor and how to check continuity on the wires that connect it to the electronic control board.
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The video includes these parts and tools. Look up your model to make sure you get the right parts for your refrigerator.
Multimeter
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Thermistor
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Electronic control board
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Transcript:
For safety, unplug the refrigerator. Drop down the control box in the ceiling of the refrigerator to access the thermistor. Examine the thermistor's wire harness for damage or loose connections. If the wiring harness looks okay, let’s check the resistance of the thermistor using a multi-meter. Remove the thermistor and put the meter leads on the two white wires. The tech sheet for your refrigerator includes a temperature/resistance chart for the thermistor. You can usually find the tech sheet inside the refrigerator, stored behind the bottom front grill. Refer to this chart for the expected resistance readings for your model. On this model, at a room temperature of 72 degrees, you should measure around 11,000 ohms of resistance through the thermistor. Place the thermistor in a cup of ice water and you should measure around 27,000 ohms of resistance because the water temperature is around 32 degrees. Replace the thermistor if the resistance readings are off by more than 10%. This video will show you how. If the thermistor resistance checks okay, we know it’s not the thermistor. We still have 2 possible failures: the wire harness or the electronic control board. Let’s check the thermistor wiring harness. Plug the thermistor back in. Remove the 13-pin connector from the electronic control board. Put one meter lead on the grey and black wire and the other on the red wire. You should measure the same resistance that you measured directly at the thermistor at room temperature. If the reading is different, replace the wire harness or repair the thermistor wires. If the thermistor and the thermistor's wire harness are both working, the problem is likely in electronic control board because we've eliminated the other possible causes of inaccurate temperature measurement. Before you buy a control board, I recommend that you make sure the compressor and evaporator fan are working. The electronic control board operates those components based on the thermistor reading. A bad evaporator fan or failed compressor can mimic a thermistor problem. To confirm an electronic control board failure, you’ll need to turn on the compressor and evaporator fan in the diagnostic test mode. First, reassemble the control box and then plug the refrigerator back in. Within two seconds, press the door switch 3 times and then press and hold it a 4th time until you hear a long beep. You're now in the test mode. If this doesn’t work on your model, check your tech sheet for instructions. Press the door switch twice to start the compressor. The control beeps twice and then you should hear the compressor start. To check the fan, press the door switch twice WITHIN 2 SECONDS and wait for the 2 beeps. Repeat this step two more times. The control beeps twice and then starts the evaporator fan. If both the fan and the compressor run in the diagnostic test mode, you'll need to replace the electronic control board because we've eliminated the other possible causes of inaccurate temperature detection and control. Here's a video that shows how to replace the electronic control board. If the fan or compressor doesn't run, you can learn how to troubleshoot the evaporator fan and compressor in these videos.
I have been a Refrigeration Engineer for about 38 years and I have never had the luxury of having the manufactures info sheet withing the refrigerator cabinet.
That is a rare luxury indeed especially in the European Refrigerator market.
It seems the American Market is better set up to assist service technicians ,especially out in the field.
Good job.
AWESOME Video. I was trying to diagnose the thermistor in my KitchenAid Ice Maker and this video helped me a lot. Testing the resistance of the thermistor was the key bit of information that I needed. Once I found the tech sheet tucked inside the ice maker next to the cooling fins, I discovered the values of resistance I needed to know.
Wow! I'm totally surprised how well you explained this video I haven't seen any this good and the support is first rate.
Thanks for this great video! As I have learned, "high temp" is not same as high temp alarm. What I have seen on working freezers (set point temp maintained properly according to electronic thermometer) are erroneous triggering of high temp alarm once a day. Display usually shows correct/sane temp for a freezer. I am focusing on thermister and controller in this case. Regarding other units actually running hot, I have identified a problem in which fan stays on during auto-defrost on a blast freezer (Arctiko FP500), which turned freezer into an oven. New controller, did not resolve problem, but shutting off auto-defrost completely resolved problem. What apparently was happening was that as the temperature rose, the compressor would turn off progressively longer, but auto-defrost would progressively be on with fan also turned on longer up until the point defrost + fan were stuck perpetually on. I hence discovered a new way to cook food... with a freezer!
It looks like I have the same model. 3 pushes and hold on 4th one doesn't give any beep. Also 2 pushed of that switch do not do anything.
What if the fridge stops before it's cold enough because the compressor is overheating (IF that's the case) and WHAT IF the evaporator motor and sensors are okay but the coils are very free of any frost at all, super clean? Could it be the r-134 is too weak and causing the compressor to overwork? Just looking for another possible solution to a too warm fridge.
Great info but actually YOU MUST use the fridges tech sheet and measure the temp AND match the ohms against it. Also check dc output at the board. Thermistor values change according to manufacturers. Again if no tech sheet is present this will point u in a good direction
mabe top mount ref.model ITV1101CERS what is the correct resistance value of defrost sensor
Thanks for the great video - I'm troubleshooting a Frigidaire GLFU2067FW5 upright freezer. Start relay checks ok, compressor will not come on but checks ok with continuity at all points. So I think that leaves me with the thermistor or the control board. Can you provide the spec on the thermistor? I don't have the sheet and cannot find it. I'm trying to follow your diagnostic order before I order an expensive part that I don't need. Thanks in advance for your help.
Great video as always
Hi, great video! my LG GM 849RSC have FS error code on the front panel. What is the values to check it with multi meter?
The error reset after reconnect power cord and showed again time later.
THANKS!
Although we don't have technical information for that particular foreign model, the resistance of the freezer sensor for most LG refrigerators is 7.88 k-ohms at 32 F or 0-degrees C. If the freezer is at operating temperature (near 0-defrees F), you can unplug the refrigerator and measure the resistance through the freezer thermistor circuit from the electronic control board on the back of the refrigerator. Most LG refrigerators have a wiring diagram sticker on the back panel that will guide you on checking the freezer thermistor circuit. Resistance at +5-degrees F (-15 C) should be 17 k-ohms and resistance at -4F (-20C) should be 22.33 k-ohms. If the freezer isn't at operating temperature, you can unplug the refrigerator, remove the thermistor and place it in a glass of ice water to get it to 32F (0C) then measure resistance. We hope this information helps.
@@searspartsdirect wow big thanks for this detailed answer. Found disconnection in the thermistor harness so everything great for now
Dude you're helping so much and yer not getting anything in return, TURN ON THE ADVERTISEMENTS, so you can profit a little from these videos.
can you help me
I hvae sansumg that freeze solid in the hupper part
I have a model rf22nctaww with freezer at the bottom it freezes at the top it doesn't control its temperature well at the top have to change the fan at the bottom it doesn't do anything cahnge they can hear the hatch open or close
but have doubts whether it closes completely and it freezes everywhere is it difficult to clean the hatch or change it on this model
a video would be welcome
THANKS
The evap coil is not icing up, so no issues with defrost that I can see. I replaced the thermistor, and still not cooling. It seems like it's cooling a little, but not nearly enough for the freezer. If the compressor, condenser and evaporator fan are all working during normal operating mode, but still not getting cold, could it most likely be be the control board?
A bad control board could be causing the symptoms that you’re seeing. If you’re not seeing a light, even frost pattern on the evaporator when the compressor runs, then low refrigerant charge, a clog in the refrigerant system or a bad compressor could be causing cooling problems.
@@searspartsdirect Well, if it turns out to be a bad compressor, then I'll probably throw in the towel and just get a new fridge.
@@searspartsdirect ...New control board didn't fix it either. Oh well. I think the compressor, though running, just isn't running strong enough and/or there was a freon leak. Looks like a new fridge is on the way.
Hello, I have a Whirlpool WRT318FZDM05 refrigerator. The evap coil in the freezer keeps freezing up (solid ice). The defrost element test with 40 ohms of resistance, so its not open. I feel I have narrowed it down to the thermistor on the evaporator coil or the control board. I have no spec sheet for this refrigerator unit, so not sure how to troubleshoot further on the thermistor. Any suggestions, or am I at the point to take a shot in the dark and buy on of the two replacement parts I mentioned? Refrigerator works absolutely fine for roughly a month until the evap coil freezes, then after a manual defrost, rinse and repeat.
The tech sheet for that model lists a defrost bi-metal but the wiring diagram shows a fuse instead of a bi-metal switch in the defrost heater circuit from the control board. With the freezer cold (so the bi-metal is below 25 degrees F and closed), unplug the refrigerator and check resistance through the brown and white wires that connect to the control board. If your meter measures infinite resistance through that circuit then the defrost bi-metal or thermal fuse in that circuit is likely bad. Replacing that component should fix the problem. We hope this advice helps. If you need more help, let us know.
Hello. Thank you for these videos! I have a WRT318FZDW00 (zero zero, not oh oh). Can you please tell me what my readings should be at room temp and in a cup of ice water. I can not find ANY info on this model. And the paper work from underneath the backside gives me barely any info. Thank you :)
Ps. Also if you have a part number in case I need to order a new thermistor. Thanks again!
Perhaps this sensor can also cause the refrigerator to be working indefinitely and not turn off due to temperature?
This is my problem too. It just runs forever.
Hi, I put the refrigerator thermistor in ice water for 5 minutes and tested resistance. I wasn't sure to use 200K or 20K setting. I measured the following on 200K scale. 08.4 or 8.4 on 20K scale. Not sure how to convert the numbers to thousands of ohms. This is a Whirlpool WRT318FZDW02 refrigerator thermistor and there have been problems with it running constantly and freezing food. I couldn't locate a thermistor resistance on the refrigerator spec sheet to know if this thermistor is good or not. Also both evaporator and condenser fans operate and the compressor operates all the time too. Condensor appears clean and is cool to the touch. Ice forms at capillary tube in freezer and I never see frost on evaporator.-
According to the details you provided about your meter, it sounds like the meter measured 8400 ohms (8.4K ohms) of resistance through the thermistor at 32 degrees F. That's normal resistance for a Whirlpool thermistor in that model. According to the temperature/resistance chart we have, the meter should measure 9269 ohms at 30 F and 8050 ohms at 35 F so your meter's reading of 8400 ohms at 32 F indicates that the thermistor is likely okay because it reads the right resistance at 32 F. Because the thermistor seems to be okay, you'll likely need to replace the control board (part W11353813 -- www.searspartsdirect.com/product/1er8tftd46-0046-106/id-w11353813 ). We hope this information helps. If you need more assistance, let us know.
@@searspartsdirect Thanks very much for the information. My meter I have is the same model Craftsman as pictured in this video.
@@searspartsdirectIt appears the part number you provided is the control panel/control box assembly; With the LED lights, power on and off button and temperature light selector. Does this include the control board itself? I ask as the part number I found for the control board is W11436574 and that doesn't match the part found in the link. Please clarify if possible. I assume from your prior comments that the control board itself likely needs replaced
@sears PartsDirect (Wayne), Hi Wayne, Great video btw and thank you. I have a
JFX2897DRM02 Jenn Air, noticed the fridge wasn't cooling, internal temp was around 45-50degrees. Replaced the interior fridge fan (attached was the temp and thermistor). With the old parts and the new parts the fridge only cools down to 36 degrees only when I power cycle. After an hour or so the internal temp starts to rise and i check it the next day and its not cooling... question i have is, there are 3 control boards on my unit, which one should i try replacing first?
If a control board is causing this failure, it''s likely the main control board. Here's a link with a photo of the board: www.searspartsdirect.com/product/14qr259849-0046-106/id-w10811364 . Keep in mind that a number of other component failures could cause the symptom that you're describing. Before you buy and replace an expensive control board, we recommend that you consider performing more troubleshooting and testing of components. Follow the testing procedures described in the tech sheet for your refrigerator. You'll likely find the tech sheet on the back of the refrigerator or behind the bottom from toe panel. Unplug the refrigerator before accessing internal components. If you're not completely confident that you can safely follow troubleshooting tests described in the tech sheet, we recommend that you have a service technician examine and repair the refrigerator. We hope this information helps. Let us know if you need further assistance.
@@searspartsdirect thank you!
Excellent Video
Vegetable upside cooling problem how can I solve the problem
Ive checked my defrost thermister the readings are no where like the ones you've tested here
Mine reads 6.5 at room temp and 13 in ice water
The temp sensor for the freezer reads way different again and the fridge different again
I was assuming all 3 should have similar readings
I can't seem to find the tech sheet for a Kenmore Elite 10653709200. Is there one available for this model?
We didn't find a tech sheet available for that model.
I have my rs21 fridge which is not cooling down...the evaporator is already cool but the evaporator fans (both for freezer and fridge) are not working
Cool video Wayne. Lots of good info.
Hey Ben. I replaced control board and thermistor, but Frigidaire LFFH21F7HWG keeps running. goes below set temp, no ice build up, wiring plugs are underneath. dont know what pins are for thermistor. pins are intagrated into the door, pin housing is not removable. there are no freezers for sale right now, a national back order they tell me.
It looks like only the red lead of the multimeter is being connected to only one of the two sensor leads. Is that correct? How is the multimeter measuring resistance without using both probes?
The black lead of the multimeter may be difficult for you to see but it is connected to the other sensor contact.
Kindly advice on the further check up
We don't have technical information available for that model of refrigerator so we're not able to offer DIY troubleshooting advice. You'll like need have a service technician examine and repair the refrigerator.
Great video. Thank you sir :)
LMX25964ST is the model of my samsung fridge. Does this ohms reading apply to most or all models of samsung fridge? Also what is the thermistor looking part that is tucked inside the evap coil?
The model number you posted appears to be for an LG refrigerator. On that model of LG refrigerator, the thermistor tucked into the evaporator is part of the defrost sensor assembly. The part number for that model depends on the revision numbers after the "ST" in the model number. For model LMX25964ST/00, the defrost sensor assembly is part 6615JB2005H ( www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/6615JB2005H/0046/795.html ). For models LMX25964ST/01 and LMX25964ST/02, the defrost sensor assembly is part number 6615JB2005N ( www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/6615JB2005N/0046/795.html ). The thermistor resistances in your refrigerator differ from the resistance of the thermistor shown in the video. For your refrigerator, the resistance through the defrost thermistor in that defrost sensor assembly should be 30 kohms at 32F, 77 kohms at -4F and 13 kohms at 68F. Be sure that you unplug the refrigerator before accessing internal components. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
Does anyone know if a domestic refrigerator can have a thermistor and a defrost timer at the same time or can they only have one of the two?
If the refrigerator has an electromechanical defrost timer then it typically doesn't have a thermistor. Thermistors are used in models that have an electronic control board that controls the defrost cycle and other refrigerator functions such as cooling.
@@searspartsdirect oh my GOD!!! thank you so much for your answer. This question was breaking my head. Thank you again!
Is the control board housing on my Kenmore 60412 removed with a screwdriver or nut driver? Thank you
That model uses ¼-inch hex head screws to mount the control board housing. Use a 1/4-inch nut driver to remove those mounting screws.
Thank you, but I was talking about removing the actual large white housing that holds the board, thermistor, light, etc. I found one 5/16" hex in front and unscrewed that, but it is still somehow held in back. Is this held with keyways and slides out? I don't want to break anything. Thanks again
@@MichaelJohnson-mb1io After removing that front screw, pull the control housing forward about ½-inch to release the keyed slots in the control housing from the plastic tabs mounted to the roof of the refrigerator compartment then lower the control housing and unplug the wire harness. You can see the keyed slots in the housing and the plastic tabs on the roof of the refrigerator compartment in the video.
Thank you very much, I noticed the slots in a video.
I appreciate your help. So now I'm hoping it will be either the heater or the thermistor and I will test both, and the wiring. Is there only one heater and thermistor that will fit the Kenmore 60412, and if so, what are their part numbers, please. Thank you
Good video very helpful thanks for sharing👍
Tks for nice video
Hi, Ive got a LG model #Lfx25978st and ive tested the freezer thermistor and at 32° i got 6.8 Ohms. I do not have the manual for the fridge and can not find the temperature resistance chart for it online. Not sure if the thermistor needs replacing.
My fridge and freezer stopped cooling and was only blowing hot air, then when cleaned and unplugged for 24 hrs to thaw started working again really well. 5 days later it started to warm up and stopped blowing cold air again. All the fans work too and so does the condenser so I am at a loss
Here's a link for a copy of the service manual for that model: www.manualslib.com/manual/996736/Lg-Lfx28978-Series.html . Check your meter settings. The meter may be measuring 6.8K ohms which would indicate the thermistor may be detecting a warmer temperature than actual temperature. That thermistor likely isn't causing the problems that you're describing. The refrigerator may have a bad control board. A number of other problems could be causing the problems you're describing.
Could you please tell me the function of the thermistor inside the refrigerator cabinet. I ask as our refrigerator has one in the refirgerator portion and also one in the freezer question.
I need this information to help determine if one or the other thermistor is contributing to our refrigerator that is only 1-2 years old seeming to run all the time.
The refrigerator food section seems to keep the food cold enough and freezer section the frosen food is solid enough but the fan for the evaporator in the freezer section seems to run non-stop for some reason. Sometimes some of the food was even showing ice on it. After removing the cover I did locate some ice build up on a small section in the top corner of the evaporator in the freezer.
The thermistors detect temperature and send a temperature signal to the electronic control board. The electronic control board turns on and off the compressor to maintain set temperature based on the thermistor signal. A thermistor on the evaporator of some refrigerators is used to monitor evaporator temperature so the electronic control board shuts off the defrost heater when it detects that evaporator temperature has reached a level where frost has melted off the evaporator fins. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, give us more details and let us know the model number of your refrigerator.
Great video sir I do have a question please! I pulled out the freezer temperature sensor in my Samsung side by side freezer and checked the resistance which seems fine. My question is do you have to do the cold water test also I only checked at room temperature and did get the correct reading? Our fresh food side temp is fine freezer not cooling as well as it use to melted ice cream and no ice being made. Any help would sure be appreciated from any of you pros out there I am just a newbie trying to work my way through the repair. Thank you in advance have a wondeful day. Paul
If the meter measured the right resistance through the thermistor at room temperature then the thermistor is likely okay. Let us know the model number of your refrigerator and we’ll provide some DIY troubleshooting tips to help you fix the freezer cooling problem.
Did u ever figure your problem out?
How many ohm in cold u think good for use?
Resistance of thermistors varies by refrigerator brand and model. For the thermistor shown in the video, your meter should measure around 27,000 ohms at 32 degrees F. If you have a different model than the one shown in the video, let us know the model of your refrigerator and we'll try to provide you with resistance values for the refrigerator thermistor in your refrigerator.
@@searspartsdirect Thanks 🙏
Thanks santa
lmao! you know he's riding a harley too 😂
What tool is needed to take the top compartment off in the refrigerator?
To release the control housing in the roof of the refrigerator compartment of many refrigerator models, you'll need to unplug the refrigerator and remove fasteners using a screwdriver or nut driver. You may also need to release catches to remove the control housing from the roof of the refrigerator compartment. We hope this information helps. If you need more assistance, let us know the model number of your refrigerator and more details about the compartment that you're trying to access.
I have a ge profile model PSIC5RGXCFBV that will work fine for 5 or 6 months and then just stop cooling. Everything will completely defrost and after about 24 hours it will start cooling again and work fine for another 5 or 6 months. I have replaced compressor, 3 motherboards and 2 inverters. The problem still occurs about every 6 months. Any ideas of what my problem could be.
The problem that you're describing is likely caused by a bad electronic control board (motherboard). Because the refrigerator cools normally most of the time, the other components are likely okay. Even though you've replaced it 3 other times, you'll likely need to replace the electronic control board again to fix this problem. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
thank you very easy and simple, just wonder such advice are for all kind model freezer refrigerator
The thermistor troubleshooting advice generally works for most types of refrigerator-freezers. The electronic control board and thermistor will be in different locations on the various models. Don’t forget to refer to the tech sheet for your refrigerator to determine the accurate thermistor resistance values when testing the thermistor using a multimeter. Let us know the model number of your refrigerator-freezer if you need specific help for your exact type.
My refrigerator evaporator fan stop after 3hours but compresor still working then form ice plz help
Thanks dude
thanks
Hi Wayne, I have the opposite problem. My refrigerator temperature control seems to have no effect on the temperature of the fresh food section of the frig. It is too cold all the time at any setting. What would cause that?
The damper that controls air flow from the freezer to the refrigerator could be stuck open. Provide us with a model number and we’ll try to give some troubleshooting tips for your refrigerator.
Hi Wayne, the model number is GTL18JCPDRBS thanks for any assistance. Bill
Thanks for providing that model number. Your refrigerator uses a cold control thermostat and an air damper system to control temperature in the refrigerator and freezer sections.
The refrigerator temperature control knob adjusts the cold control thermostat. The cold control thermostat senses refrigerator section temperature and turns the compressor on and off to maintain refrigerator section temperature.
The freezer temperature control knob moves an air damper that controls how much freezer air circulates down through the refrigerator compartment. Setting the freezer at a warmer temperature (1 or 2) allows more air to drop down into the refrigerator section so the refrigerator section cools down faster and the cold control thermostat shuts off the compressor sooner so the freezer section stays warmer. Adjusting the freezer temperature control knob to a colder setting (8 or 9) allows little air to flow down to the refrigerator section so the compressor runs longer - making the freezer section colder.
Check your settings. Try settings of 5 for the refrigerator and freezer sections and allow 24 hours for the new settings to take effect.
If the refrigerator is too cold with both controls set at 5, then check for items blocking the air damper into the refrigerator section or the air return vents back into freezer. The air damper vent supplying air from the freezer is at the back of the refrigerator section ceiling and the return air vents are at the back corners of the refrigerator section ceiling. Blocking those vents will prevent air from circulating down through the refrigerator section which will cause the compressor to run constantly so the refrigerator will be too cold.
If the air vents are clear, then the damper shaft, freezer temperature control knob or the damper could be broken. Refer to the Fresh Food Section of the parts list diagram (www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/GTL18JCPDRBS/0432/0166000.html) to see these parts. You’ll need to unplug the refrigerator and remove the screws from the Control Housing (Key 624) to access the Freezer Temperature Control Knob (Key 301), Damper Shaft (Key 319) and Damper (Key 305). Replace any damaged parts.
William Bro I have Kenmore 111.6120. Fresh food section is too cold. Please help.
@@searspartsdirect This just helped me repair my problem 4 years after you posted this. Thank you.
I have Kenmore Fridge 253.6888901C frost builds in freezer and cuts off cooling to fridge. tested all components in freezer fine with meter but defrost heater never melts the ice. When I drop down the fridge compartment looks it different than video..only has timer& thermostat . The light bulb no longer works. I notice blue wire goes from to light fixture to the timer then to connects to plug in fridge ceiling. There is where i see in the plug the copper inside is black and looks burned out where the blue wire goes into. Need assist as i think this can be why lite no longer works, but more importantly need help as to why defrost heater not working.
The light blue wire that connects to the plug in the ceiling sends current to the defrost heater through the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The defrost bi-metal thermostat shuts off current to the defrost heater to prevent the evaporator from overheating during the defrost process. Based on your details, we think that the defrost heater may be shorted and that’s why the light blue wire in the refrigerator ceiling plug is burnt. We recommend that you unplug the refrigerator and check the resistance of the defrost heater using a multimeter. Here’s a video that shows how to access the defrost heater: www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/refrigerator/how-to-replace-the-defrost-heater-in-a-top-freezer-refrigerator.html. You should measure between 32 and 45 ohms of resistance through the defrost heater. Replace the defrost heater (www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/242044020/0046/253.html) if you measure resistance outside that range. If you measure the proper resistance through the defrost heater, then the defrost bi-metal thermostat could have failed. Check the resistance through the defrost bi-metal thermostat when the thermostat is colder than 47 degrees. You should measure near 0 ohms of resistance through the bi-metal thermostat. If you measure infinite resistance through the bi-metal thermostat, replace it (www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/5303918634/0046/253.html). Here’s a video that shows how:www.searspartsdirect.com/repair-guide/refrigerator/how-to-replace-the-defrost-bi-metal-thermostat-in-a-top-freezer-refrigerator.html. You’ll also need to repair the light blue wire so current flows to the defrost heater. If you’ve already replaced the light bulb in the refrigerator, then a bad door switch, a failed light socket or a wiring failure in the light circuit could be preventing the light bulb from working. If you get to a point where you need a service technician to diagnose and repair the refrigerator, you can schedule service here: www.searshomeservices.com/.
Sir what is the difference between defrost sensor and tempereture sensor...another ....what is sensor-F...is sensor-f is temepreture sensor ..plz guide ..
The defrost sensor detects the temperature directly at the evaporator fins and helps the electronic control board determine when to shut off the defrost heater to keep from overheating the evaporator. The temperature sensor detects temperature inside the refrigerator or freezer compartment. A sensor-F is typically a temperature sensor inside the freezer compartment. We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know and provide us with the model number of your refrigerator.
@@searspartsdirect thanks for guiding...another queation sir...can we use the same sensor for both....can defrost sensor will work the same as tempreture sensor..?
@@searspartsdirect sir another things also...tc-sensor....F-Sensor...R-sensor...amd D-Sensor...these four sensors are installed in hitachi inverter fridge...F-sensor and D-sensors u have already explained...just explain the two ..R and TC sensors..thanks sir..Tahir from Malaysia.
thank u
Indesit total no frost
Hi, very nice video, but the sensor is not a thermistor, it's just a resistor. If someone is attempting to lean how his refrigerator actually works, they will be confused by this charactrization.
Thanks for the compliment and your efforts to help keep our advice accurate. You are correct that the sensor is a resistor but we call it a thermistor because its resistance changes with temperature (by design) more than standard resistors.
Thanks! But it was a bit too fast.
The amout of work that goes into refrigerators is ridiculous.
Really cool and all but I still don’t understand why you need to wear gloves when doing simple tasks lol
Internal edges in appliances can be sharp. We recommend wearing work gloves to protect your hands when working on appliances. We try to provide the safest DIY repair advice so we often recommend wearing work gloves in our videos.
@@searspartsdirect the fins on the evaporator are so sharp too
Seems odd to include a step in the troubleshooting process that requires ice water, as if your fridge is broken there's a good chance you won't have ice.
Some advanced countries actually sell ice in supermarkets in exchange for the local currency.
@@benbaselet2026 🤣