I just came across this video since I'm looking to build a powder coating oven and I must say this is a very well explained video. George you explain everything in detail step by step. Great job. I would like to see a video on how to hook up an alarm (buzzer) Thank you for sharing with us your knowledge.
This has probably already been stated below, but to be clear. On all duplex receptacles that I have used the silver screws denote the neutral side and the copper screws denote the 'hot' or line side. When split wiring a duplex you only want to break off the connecting tab on the hot side. The neutral side (silver screws) can stay in tact so one wire will be bridged to both top and bottom receptacles. The hot side is broken allowing you to feed it from two different sources or controls. When wiring anything the first thing to wire up is the earth ground, the second wire is the neutral and the last is the hot wire. This method prevents a faulty part from coming live without a safe way to go to ground. In short, ground first always. I've been a low and medium voltage electrician for 20 years and have wired circuits from 1.5 to 300 volts. Great videos. I'm mainly watching to see the Inkbird in action as I have just purchased one to run my electric smelter for recycling aluminum heat sinks into castable ingots for later use. I'm using high temp Kanthal heating elements on 250VAC supply that can melt steel at 2400 F but the controls are the same.
I have a question for everyone. I did get quite a few interesting emails from this post. I am considering assembling 20 or more of these and offer them to our contacts on youtube, email and our web site. I want to add a fan for additional cooling and increased safety. What are your thoughts? George
I think there a lot of guys out there that don't want to build a unit themselves and will just pay to have one pre-made as long as there not too expensive, you could make a few dollars.
Is a receptacle needed? Like can I wire the pid to kiln then plug kiln in wall outlet like normal or is the receptacle needed with a separate switch for the ink bird?
Great work mate Awesome video on the Inkbird 100. Very clear & easy to understand. I just converted your wire colours as in Australia we have Brown/Red = Active, and Blue/Black = Netural. And Earth is same Green. But very helpful Cheers!!
Hello all! I'm assembling a panel to control a heating element. The element requires 240v. The circuit I have seen uses a hot leg off of each side of a 240V switch to 9 and 10 of the Inkbird ITC-106VH. An electrician here suggested using a fusable supply of 120V to the Inbird instead. Every example I see uses opposite legs of the power supply to the load. Is it okay to have opposite legs of 120V to the Inkbird while having it control a 240V load through the SS Relay?
You are flipping amazing.... Thank you so much for taking your valuable time to help other beginners in this hobby. I look forward to picking that brain of yours in the future lol. thanks again
George, nice tutorials... I'm now wanting to convert my large fish smoker from charcoal to electric. I'm sure I need an actual contactor instead of the Fotek SSR due to using 220 Volt high current elements. Any wiring diagram and the correct parts would be appreciated. I left you a voice mail. Thanks for any guidance.
Barley and Hops Brewing LLC I have 4 heaters to be controlled by the PID, the question is: can I put an on/off switch for two of them just in case if I need only two so I could easily switch them off or on when I need to and still have under PID control?? I know how to do it but just not sure if this is the safe way. I really appreciate the way you explain this stuff. Wish everyone could have a teacher like you.
That would work very well provided you wire them in parallel and not in series. Just to be clear, parallel is exactly how residential wiring is wired so it's no special wiring requirement - series would be like the old Christmas lights where when one light bulb burns out the rest won't work until you find it and replace it. I am sure you already know this but thought it best to explain for others who may read this post. Great idea. George
The length of the wire does not affect the resistance in this case since the difference is in the probe and not the wire.You can order a K-type coupler on amazon with a 9ft wire and in some cases longer. It is an easy fix. If you decide to just add wire to extend the one you have - I wouldn't recommend that.
George Duncan; So if my column is 8 feet tall and the thermocoupler is in the still head an if the thermocoupler wire is to short to reach the PID I can simply splice in a wire in to make it longer?
Hi, thank you for your video, I found it very helpful. One thing I’m not sure about is the switch. Obviously when switched off, the pump is off. But while the switch is on, does the pump continue to run regardless of the temperature value set through the pid? Or does the pump also turn off when the pid decides to power off? Thank you
The top and bottom of the receptacle are separated so that the top only works when the PID operates it and the bottom plug is always hot so the pump operates continuously as long as the switch is on.
I really wish they would standardize the pin connections between brands inputs/outputs. Replaced an omron with red lion, had to make longer wires to reach the bottom pin, that was the middle on the omron.
Hi George, can you tell us exactly what model Inkbird PID your using. I tried to look for one and there are several of the Inkbird PID's out there there on the market at various prices. I have no clue which in to pick up, they all look very similar?
I see on your setup you have the live black wire conected to the number 1 screw and your load side on the number 2 screw. My question is, will it work the other way around? I have seen people put the live black power wire to the number 2 screw and the load side on the number 1 screw. I see some videos that say it works either way, What is the correct way? I would think the live wire goes to number 1 screw and load side on number 2 screw the way you have it wired. What's the real dea?
just a question George where did you get your power points from or as you call it power receptacle, i am from Australia and carn't find any on eBay with out buttons on them, cheers azza
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Im using it for a pump. I wanted to use the .001 - 999 hour feature where my pump would be on for 1.5 seconds and off for 5 minutes. I mean if you know how to set the timer or have a reference thatd be fine also
Hey George! Thanks for the awesome and precise educational video. I wish I would have had a teacher like you growing up. You're positive energy and love for what you do is infectious. But I do have a question, I have a sestos d1s-vr-220 that looks very similar to your model here. actually amazon no longer sells the model I have and has replaced it with yours. I have wired everything up according to your video, in addition to a on/off rocker so I wouldn't have to unplug every time. I'm having an issue with my pid not cycling on/off. the light plugged into the receptacle stays on constantly with the varying temps. I have exhausted all avenues and hope you could give me some much needed insight. thanks again for your awesome time and effort you put into these videos! JD
Hi, Do you think that a ITC -100VH PID controller would be able to control my 3500w - 240v (15 amp) heater element ??? If yes, do someone can explain me hot to connect it...??? Thank-you
Claude, to wire this for a 220V power supply the wiring is the same. Here is the difference: In 120 volt system you have three wires, a hot (black wire) a neutral (white wire) and a ground. The black and white go to pins 1 and 2. In a 220 volt system you have a hot (red wire) another hot (usually black) a neutral (usually white) and a ground (green). The 2 hot wires go to pins 1 and 2. The reason it works this way is that in a 120 volt circuit there is only one leg of 120 volts and the neutral wire allows the current to flow. In a 220 volt circuit there are two 120 volt wire that are out of phase. This allows current to flow freely. The neutral wire goes to the neutral on the plug and the ground goes to the kettle or you box. You will also notice (if you are using a 220 volt heater element) that there are only two connectors for wires. These are for the two hot leads. The ground (or neutral) goes to the kettle or the base of the element. I really hope this helps. If I have confused you give me a call at 254-681-1760 George
Wow, many thanks for your FAST answer... very quick!!! Goerge, the only confusion I have with my 220V circuit is.... The hot leads wire from the electrical source will FIRST connect in the SSR relay then go in the PID or the reverse way??? ( hot wire #1 will plug in SSR #1 pin then go in #10 PID (I have the Ink Bird ITC-100VH) or should plug first in PID #10 then go into SSR #1 pin)? The second Hot will go directly in PID #9 pin. Milles merci from Québec
You have 2 pins on the PID for power in (pins 9 and 10) One hot wire goes to pin #10- another wire from pin #10 goes to pin #1 on the SSR (doesn't matter if you go to the SSR first or to the PID first- works either way). Your other hot wire goes to pin #9 on the PID and then another wire from pin #9 goes to the heater element. A separate wire from pin #2 from the SSR goes to the other side of the heater element. Hope this isn't confusing. It is the easiest way to wire it. George
+jon davenport Should work just fine but the Alembic Turbo 500 does not require temp control as it is already pre-set to work as one unit. The cooling of the condenser is controlled by the water flow and not the heat supplied. I can see how this could be used with the still but not sure why you would go that route unless you just wanted that much more control over the process. George
Ok so I’ve deconstructed my 220v pottery kiln so I can use it as a heat treat oven for my blade making Problem I’m having is the SSR keeps popping at pin 2/T1 All I have is black,red and ground cause I wanted to match the 250/50amp wall plug so I left out the white wire (neutral) So I have the two hots and the ground ,I have everything hooked up using the Rex-C100 crap PID and it comes on immediately of course cause the thermocouple tells it to ,it doesn’t even get to 500 Celsius before it pops (Sv at 800 Celsius)
The Rex C-100 is not as dependable as most would hope. Sorry but not much else can be done with that. Make sure you are using wire sizes to match the requirement of your amperage draw. I am not sure what your requirement is. If you use an SSR that is is not rated to handle the amp load it will pop off. Is this a 25 amp SSR? What size element (wattage)are you using to heat with? I may be able to help if I know at least that much.
Barley The kiln is a 220v and the latest SSR was a 25amp , I’m not having any luck finding out what wattage the elements are (old K model kiln) Got the inkbird in today and it has a 40 amp SSR I will give that one a shot ✌️
That should do it. I looked up your kiln on line and most K models have at least A 5000 watt element so you will be drawing about 21-23 amps at full power on 240 Volts so the 40 amp SSR will be good for this.
Why not use a switch for all three? One for power, one for the heating element in case you have to stop the boil quick, and then one for the pump? I know it is overkill but it would add to safety and the cool factor! I would use different color switches one red, and two green. Just my less than humble opinion... By the way I really liked the heat sink.
have a pleasant day george this video is very helpful to us but can please create a video set up of parameter setting and defining? ....tnx gods bless,,,,
Have not received any emails from you. Here is the link to the project box www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYMXWZB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi George you also said you were wiring a Inkbird in your video for the wiring a Inkbird PID Part 1 video. But your wiring a Rex 100 on your board. I don’t understand can you help me out here buddy it’s misleading and very confusing.
Hi George, Your videos are sometimes are spot on and other times you are not on the same page as what you say your wiring up. For example your title of this video is “WIRING MY INKBIRD PID PART 2”. But in the video you say your wiring a REX C 100 and you say this is the easiest to wire. That may be true. But I have the INKBIRD ITC106 VH and this title is misleading. So I begin the wiring diagram you show in this video and you said hook up the white wires to pin 2 on the PID. There is no pin 2 on INKBIRD. Where is the wiring diagram for the INKBIRD ITC 106 VH? I’m trying to hook up also a regular 120V switch, an Amp Meter, a fan, thermal couple, and a single lighted switch to run the pump. So I trying to wire what you offered the diagrams to hook it all up but none show how to do it with the 3 PID’S you talked about. MY PIN, INKBIRD, REX...CAN YOU OR DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO TO SHOW HOW TO GO STEP BY STEP ON ALL 3 PID’S with all the components?
I just came across this video since I'm looking to build a powder coating oven and I must say this is a very well explained video. George you explain everything in detail step by step. Great job. I would like to see a video on how to hook up an alarm (buzzer) Thank you for sharing with us your knowledge.
This has probably already been stated below, but to be clear. On all duplex receptacles that I have used the silver screws denote the neutral side and the copper screws denote the 'hot' or line side. When split wiring a duplex you only want to break off the connecting tab on the hot side. The neutral side (silver screws) can stay in tact so one wire will be bridged to both top and bottom receptacles. The hot side is broken allowing you to feed it from two different sources or controls. When wiring anything the first thing to wire up is the earth ground, the second wire is the neutral and the last is the hot wire. This method prevents a faulty part from coming live without a safe way to go to ground. In short, ground first always. I've been a low and medium voltage electrician for 20 years and have wired circuits from 1.5 to 300 volts. Great videos. I'm mainly watching to see the Inkbird in action as I have just purchased one to run my electric smelter for recycling aluminum heat sinks into castable ingots for later use. I'm using high temp Kanthal heating elements on 250VAC supply that can melt steel at 2400 F but the controls are the same.
Very well said.
Thanks
The Inkbird or the Mypin will do a great job of controlling your smelting system.
Let me know if you need anything when setting the parameters.
George
I have a question for everyone. I did get quite a few interesting emails from this post. I am considering assembling 20 or more of these and offer them to our contacts on youtube, email and our web site. I want to add a fan for additional cooling and increased safety.
What are your thoughts?
George
Barley and Hops Brewing LLC
I think there a lot of guys out there that don't want to build a unit themselves and will just pay to have one pre-made as long as there not too expensive, you could make a few dollars.
Is a receptacle needed? Like can I wire the pid to kiln then plug kiln in wall outlet like normal or is the receptacle needed with a separate switch for the ink bird?
I bought the ink bird ITC-106rh. Will this work with a ssr to control the heat output of a heating element on a pot still? Thanks Richard
Thanks for this. I have PID, SSR, heatsink & project box arriving soon. Will be viewing again.
Me too, Thank-you George!!!
Great work mate Awesome video on the Inkbird 100. Very clear & easy to understand. I just converted your wire colours as in Australia we have Brown/Red = Active, and Blue/Black = Netural. And Earth is same Green. But very helpful Cheers!!
Is there instruction on wiring the ALARM? I'm confused on this.
Hello all! I'm assembling a panel to control a heating element. The element requires 240v. The circuit I have seen uses a hot leg off of each side of a 240V switch to 9 and 10 of the Inkbird ITC-106VH. An electrician here suggested using a fusable supply of 120V to the Inbird instead. Every example I see uses opposite legs of the power supply to the load. Is it okay to have opposite legs of 120V to the Inkbird while having it control a 240V load through the SS Relay?
Have you done any video linking a timer to a PID controller, really enjoy watching your videos
That box set up looks nice, that gives me an idea. Why not use a house sub panel breaker box and use a 30 or 40 amp breaker as a power switch.
You are flipping amazing.... Thank you so much for taking your valuable time to help other beginners in this hobby. I look forward to picking that brain of yours in the future lol. thanks again
George have you done a video on how to wire the Inkbird Twin Digital controller to the Inkbird 106VH controller?
George, nice tutorials... I'm now wanting to convert my large fish smoker from charcoal to electric. I'm sure I need an actual contactor instead of the Fotek SSR due to using 220 Volt high current elements. Any wiring diagram and the correct parts would be appreciated. I left you a voice mail. Thanks for any guidance.
Barley and Hops Brewing LLC I have 4 heaters to be controlled by the PID, the question is: can I put an on/off switch for two of them just in case if I need only two so I could easily switch them off or on when I need to and still have under PID control?? I know how to do it but just not sure if this is the safe way.
I really appreciate the way you explain this stuff. Wish everyone could have a teacher like you.
That would work very well provided you wire them in parallel and not in series. Just to be clear, parallel is exactly how residential wiring is wired so it's no special wiring requirement - series would be like the old Christmas lights where when one light bulb burns out the rest won't work until you find it and replace it. I am sure you already know this but thought it best to explain for others who may read this post.
Great idea.
George
Barley and Hops Brewing LLC Thanks for your reply. Really appreciate it. 👍🏻
If you add a longer wire to the thermocoupler will it alter the resistance and therefor alter the temp reading?
The length of the wire does not affect the resistance in this case since the difference is in the probe and not the wire.You can order a K-type coupler on amazon with a 9ft wire and in some cases longer. It is an easy fix. If you decide to just add wire to extend the one you have - I wouldn't recommend that.
George Duncan; So if my column is 8 feet tall and the thermocoupler is in the still head an if the thermocoupler wire is to short to reach the PID I can simply splice in a wire in to make it longer?
Hi, thank you for your video, I found it very helpful.
One thing I’m not sure about is the switch.
Obviously when switched off, the pump is off.
But while the switch is on, does the pump continue to run regardless of the temperature value set through the pid? Or does the pump also turn off when the pid decides to power off?
Thank you
The top and bottom of the receptacle are separated so that the top only works when the PID operates it and the bottom plug is always hot so the pump operates continuously as long as the switch is on.
Barley and Hops Brewing LLC Ahh, gotcha, that makes sense. Thank you so much for your help.
George, I have a ITC-100VL, does it wire up just like the ITC-100VH? thanks also for your vids and information, Ron.
Yes it does
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Thanks for you quick response, and also keep up the informative vids for us, Ron.
Hello, do you have a parts list and where did buy them? Thank You
I really wish they would standardize the pin connections between brands inputs/outputs.
Replaced an omron with red lion, had to make longer wires to reach the bottom pin, that was the middle on the omron.
Hi George, can you tell us exactly what model Inkbird PID your using. I tried to look for one and there are several of the Inkbird PID's out there there on the market at various prices. I have no clue which in to pick up, they all look very similar?
I use the ITC-106-VH model. It is the easiest to work with.
George
I see on your setup you have the live black wire conected to the number 1 screw and your load side on the number 2 screw. My question is, will it work the other way around? I have seen people put the live black power wire to the number 2 screw and the load side on the number 1 screw. I see some videos that say it works either way, What is the correct way? I would think the live wire goes to number 1 screw and load side on number 2 screw the way you have it wired. What's the real dea?
Yes. It will work either way.
just a question George where did you get your power points from or as you call it power receptacle, i am from Australia and carn't find any on eBay with out buttons on them, cheers azza
do you know anything about wiring the inkbird idt-e? does it need a relay? can you make a video for that one?
I do but this is a timer control so it has little value for me.
What are you using it for?
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Im using it for a pump. I wanted to use the .001 - 999 hour feature where my pump would be on for 1.5 seconds and off for 5 minutes. I mean if you know how to set the timer or have a reference thatd be fine also
Hey George! Thanks for the awesome and precise educational video. I wish I would have had a teacher like you growing up. You're positive energy and love for what you do is infectious. But I do have a question, I have a sestos d1s-vr-220 that looks very similar to your model here. actually amazon no longer sells the model I have and has replaced it with yours. I have wired everything up according to your video, in addition to a on/off rocker so I wouldn't have to unplug every time. I'm having an issue with my pid not cycling on/off. the light plugged into the receptacle stays on constantly with the varying temps. I have exhausted all avenues and hope you could give me some much needed insight. thanks again for your awesome time and effort you put into these videos!
JD
Thank you George!!
Hi, Do you think that a ITC -100VH PID controller would be able to control my 3500w - 240v (15 amp) heater element ??? If yes, do someone can explain me hot to connect it...??? Thank-you
Claude, to wire this for a 220V power supply the wiring is the same. Here is the difference: In 120 volt system you have three wires, a hot (black wire) a neutral (white wire) and a ground. The black and white go to pins 1 and 2.
In a 220 volt system you have a hot (red wire) another hot (usually black) a neutral (usually white) and a ground (green). The 2 hot wires go to pins 1 and 2.
The reason it works this way is that in a 120 volt circuit there is only one leg of 120 volts and the neutral wire allows the current to flow. In a 220 volt circuit there are two 120 volt wire that are out of phase. This allows current to flow freely. The neutral wire goes to the neutral on the plug and the ground goes to the kettle or you box.
You will also notice (if you are using a 220 volt heater element) that there are only two connectors for wires. These are for the two hot leads. The ground (or neutral) goes to the kettle or the base of the element.
I really hope this helps. If I have confused you give me a call at 254-681-1760
George
Wow, many thanks for your FAST answer... very quick!!! Goerge, the only confusion I have with my 220V circuit is.... The hot leads wire from the electrical source will FIRST connect in the SSR relay then go in the PID or the reverse way??? ( hot wire #1 will plug in SSR #1 pin then go in #10 PID (I have the Ink Bird ITC-100VH) or should plug first in PID #10 then go into SSR #1 pin)? The second Hot will go directly in PID #9 pin. Milles merci from Québec
You have 2 pins on the PID for power in (pins 9 and 10) One hot wire goes to pin #10- another wire from pin #10 goes to pin #1 on the SSR (doesn't matter if you go to the SSR first or to the PID first- works either way). Your other hot wire goes to pin #9 on the PID and then another wire from pin #9 goes to the heater element.
A separate wire from pin #2 from the SSR goes to the other side of the heater element.
Hope this isn't confusing. It is the easiest way to wire it.
George
It is perfectly clear, once again, a Big-Big thank-you for your time... We are talking electricity and not brewing! Have a nice day!
Would this work with t500 alembic pot still?
+jon davenport Should work just fine but the Alembic Turbo 500 does not require temp control as it is already pre-set to work as one unit. The cooling of the condenser is controlled by the water flow and not the heat supplied. I can see how this could be used with the still but not sure why you would go that route unless you just wanted that much more control over the process.
George
Ok so I’ve deconstructed my 220v pottery kiln so I can use it as a heat treat oven for my blade making
Problem I’m having is the SSR keeps popping at pin 2/T1
All I have is black,red and ground cause I wanted to match the 250/50amp wall plug so I left out the white wire (neutral)
So I have the two hots and the ground ,I have everything hooked up using the Rex-C100 crap PID and it comes on immediately of course cause the thermocouple tells it to ,it doesn’t even get to 500 Celsius before it pops (Sv at 800 Celsius)
The Rex C-100 is not as dependable as most would hope. Sorry but not much else can be done with that.
Make sure you are using wire sizes to match the requirement of your amperage draw.
I am not sure what your requirement is. If you use an SSR that is is not rated to handle the amp load it will pop off.
Is this a 25 amp SSR?
What size element (wattage)are you using to heat with?
I may be able to help if I know at least that much.
Barley
The kiln is a 220v and the latest SSR was a 25amp , I’m not having any luck finding out what wattage the elements are (old K model kiln)
Got the inkbird in today and it has a 40 amp SSR I will give that one a shot ✌️
That should do it. I looked up your kiln on line and most K models have at least A 5000 watt element so you will be drawing about 21-23 amps at full power on 240 Volts so the 40 amp SSR will be good for this.
Barley
These things aren’t sent with the gel for the relay so would Dielectric grease do ?
@@jamesball7322 Yes. That would be fine.
Why not use a switch for all three? One for power, one for the heating element in case you have to stop the boil quick, and then one for the pump? I know it is overkill but it would add to safety and the cool factor! I would use different color switches one red, and two green. Just my less than humble opinion... By the way I really liked the heat sink.
You are amazing 🖐👍
have a pleasant day george this video is very helpful to us but can please create a video set up of parameter setting and defining? ....tnx gods bless,,,,
SELEC xt543 timer how to program on time and off timer. in tamil
Hey George! Please answer my emails concerning where you got your Project Box from?? Thanx Your knowledge is REALLY appreciated!! Gb bg
Have not received any emails from you.
Here is the link to the project box
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZYMXWZB/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi George you also said you were wiring a Inkbird in your video for the wiring a Inkbird PID Part 1 video. But your wiring a Rex 100 on your board. I don’t understand can you help me out here buddy it’s misleading and very confusing.
May need a fan to keep the box cool. Pull the heat out.
+purpguy69 Yeah. This would be an additional safety feature.
Thanks
George
hello sir plz help me pid sg-771 series wiring setting......
Hi George,
Your videos are sometimes are spot on and other times you are not on the same page as what you say your wiring up. For example your title of this video is “WIRING MY INKBIRD PID PART 2”. But in the video you say your wiring a REX C 100 and you say this is the easiest to wire. That may be true. But I have the INKBIRD ITC106 VH and this title is misleading. So I begin the wiring diagram you show in this video and you said hook up the white wires to pin 2 on the PID. There is no pin 2 on INKBIRD. Where is the wiring diagram for the INKBIRD ITC 106 VH? I’m trying to hook up also a regular 120V switch, an Amp Meter, a fan, thermal couple, and a single lighted switch to run the pump. So I trying to wire what you offered the diagrams to hook it all up but none show how to do it with the 3 PID’S you talked about. MY PIN, INKBIRD, REX...CAN YOU OR DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO TO SHOW HOW TO GO STEP BY STEP ON ALL 3 PID’S with all the components?
I started with the Mypin TA4 but had the wrong one so I switched to the Inkbird. I used a Rex C100 as a demonstration.