Thank you very much for the video and comments. I finally did modify the REX C100 and with the SSR works fine. The only thing noticed is that I purchased three REX C100 controllers, from which the one was smaller and the relay placed vertically. It seemed to me as a cheap replicate at first, but it worked fine. The only thing is that it needs more delicate handling in removing the relay compared to the other two ones. Thanks again for your useful video, could not have done it without it.
As others have said, wondered why the SSR wouldn't close, even though the instructions supplied said it was capable of SSR operation (have exactly the same model/sub model as your video subject), now I know why, and how to "fix" it. Many thanks for the easy to follow instructions, and taking the time to do them
REX-C100 FK02 (M) AN is Relay Contact Output and REX-C100 FK02 (V) AN is Relay SSR. Thanks to you I managed to make the conversion and wriggle out of a mess.
Thank you very much for your tutorial; I have made use of the REX C100 as a controller for a 'sous vide' device that switches a rice cooker or slow cooker. Complete with fuses and heat sink. Again thanks fro your patience.
nice work your video really helped me a lot as i reversed the process you did to convert my ssr relay version to normal relay this was big problem for me as i use dc heater and ssr don't work with DC volt i've removed the output resistors and soldered 12v relay and it works like charm i don't know how to thank you
The Fotek SSR-25 DA you show has an input impedance of about 1600 ohms at 12v for a current of 7.5mA. Instead of the jumper wire, you might be able to use a 1600 ohm resistor as a current limiting resistor to protect the internals of the PID from a short. Or instead of this 1600 ohms, check the resistance of the existing relay and match it with a current limiting resistor.
Here is some info that was difficult to find on the net: 1) Manual calibration of the C100 - I found a bias of approx 2.3deg. C between the C100 and an accurate thermometer (at the range of 25-37C). To fix this - enter main manue by pressing "set" for 5sec. Then press "set" several times till tou reach "TC" where you can change the value shown by using the up and down arrows. Exit menue by pressing "set" for 5 sec. 2) Changing the display so that it shows a decimal point. Enter main manue (see above). Go to "Lcy" (or so it appears) and make sure it is set to "1000". Exit menue as above. Press "set + shift" for 5 seconds. The text "COD" will appear with "0000" bellow. Press "set" once to get to "SL1". Change the numbers bellow to "0111". Exit by pressing "set + shift" for 5 seconds. 3) Setting the upper and lower limits. Press "set + shift" for 5 seconds. The text "COD" will appear with "0000". Change the number to "0001". Press "set" to browse through the setting options including SLH (set limit high) and SLL (set limit low). You can change the limits using the arrows. Once you've managed these, the unit seems to be working well and I found no need to change other parameters.
Please leave pins 1 and 2 alone! They are required to power the REX. If you need to supply 220 volts to your heating cable and so long as it is less than 3 amps then you must supply 220 volts to pin 3 or 5, as they are linked by the relay internally, so the relay can switch it on and off for you on pin 4. Make sure this supply has a fuse fitted somewhere.
Good video very helpful as I have just purchased one to make sous vide converter for my crock pot the SSD you show is only capable of taking a load of 14 amps as that is the size of the triac at 230v ac ( see big clives channel for the triac) I think I will remove the plastic tab that holds the connectors in then solder them to the PCB plus your relay mode as Mine will fit into a case
Hi! Could you please give me some advice? I have a REX-C900FK06-M*AC (output RELAY) that is coupled to a 90-240 Vac input/15 Amps output SSR to power two band heaters which sum up 2.5 Amps. This setup is working fine so far, however, I am going to need to power 2 more band heaters (5 Amps in total) but accoding to the specs of this controller the contact rating for the relay output is 3A at 250Vac (as you have mentioned on you videos). Do you think there is a way I can power those 4 band heaters using the controller along with the AC-input SSR? Or should I just get the controller modified (as you showed in the video) and then couple it to a DC-input SSR?
Hi Your REX is working correctly! You must supply the voltage that the relay is switching yourself. You can supply 240 volts up to 3 amps maximum with the built in relay. Look at 4 minutes 25 seconds--- pin 3 is where you supply the voltage to. It is then switched by the relay. If you need more than 3 amps then us the solid state relay option as described in the videos.
Your are completelly right about the wiring regarding the C100, the realy wasnt working, and when I modify like you said it starts to work. Now I do have a question. My relay SSR still passing current, I measure and shows 120 V when on active, and 76 when inactive. Is there any problem on the SSR? What is your opinion on it?
the LED driver is a 3 x 1w 12-18v 300ma type. as you load it up with a few small led.s it drops the voltage towards the 12v end. I have used this supply to run 2 12v fans from CPU's. one is attached to an aluminum fin block. I am going to mount my SSR to that block and screw it to the side of my enclosure. so for 3$ I got voltage for my fans, proper signal voltage and power on display LED's. not too shabby
I still see many selling this PID on ebay with an SSR but on reading the output details of the listing, it is still only relay only. What happens if you connect to an SSR without the above modification?
Hello! Verry good job! You did waht i was thinking to do. One question please. Do you think it's possible to put two SSR on the 4&5 outputs? I think yes but i don't know what amperage REX-C 100 could accept. Normaly SSR don't need to much current to work no? Sorry for my english because i'm from France. Thanks a lot.
I wonder how to get a 4digit led display timer module connected to this hole pid controller, for building a 3d printer filament dryer box. 🤔 I have problems too find a easy MOS timer module that can run more than 999minutes 24/7 too. 😔
How about range? In description range is 0-400 degrees. If I have K type termocouple probe that work at -100+1250 degrees, can this controller measure and control high temperature till 1250 degrees?
Just curious. I have the same kit, and have been running the SSR direct from the PID without modification. Why make this mod exactly, I don't quite get the logic, sorry. I would like to understand though. BTW, you did give me a very good insight. I know for a fact that the cheap Chinese copies of this PID don't always work, I destroyed two in early play. Your pulling apart the box alerted me to the possibility that sometimes the outer casing is not always put on the right way, so, pull it apart to check that the pin designations are what they are actually meant to be. Cheers and thanks.
Hi, at first thanks a lot for this really helping video for electronics loser like me!! I've done exactly the same modification in order to drive my SSR for an oven who cured carbon parts. Unfortunatly doesnt works as good as in your video. The output green led is effectivly light on but the red one on the SSR stay light of, Try to measuring if any voltage comes of the 4 and 5 pins but nothing. Could I ask you some help if you can identity the problem. Thanks a lot in advance Regards
I must have gotten lucky, I ordered one off of aliexpress and it came SSR ready for 22 bucks, included the ssr, heatsink, and K type as well. Just in case it helps any one else out its model number was REX-C-100FK02-V. I think that the "V" maybe stands for the low voltage output to control the SSR.
ElementCollector1001 - Yes, you have to be very careful with the part number - some models can control a SSR without modification... Those will ussually have the word SSR in the "Output" description on the side... Confusingly, some like the one on this video, will have the word "RELAY" printed on the side. This does NOT drive an SSR, it switches main power. Unfortunately I found out too late.
they had that 3 years ago when I bought mine for 22 bucks shiped with the ssr , heatsink and thermocouple.. as little workshop stated there are different models so its wiser just to buy the right one.
Very nice modification! Did this to my rex-c-100, but cant seem to get the 12v pid output stable enough(measuring 12,2 when conected to the ssr). The ssr output is kind of stuttering outputing a voltage of 200-230v when i measure with my multimeter. The ssr i working properly when suplying it with a 9v battery. Anywon else having the same problem? what can i have done wrong? thx from diy guy=)
Thank you very much for the help. I keep on coming back to the same issue. I will connect then the main supply to pin 3 after being fused, and to pin 5, while the heating cable will be connected to 3 and 4? Sorry for not understanding much, I am an agronomist not engineer so please forgive me for insisting on this.
What am I missing? It would seem that the unit described in the video has a relay that switches main power on and off. And it's being modified so that it now has intermittent 12V power being switched on and off. This 12V power is now input to a SSR which switches main power on and off, which is what the unmodified PID was doing strains out of the box!
***** OK so now I am going to answer my own question. The presenter in the TelevisionMagForum video says that the relay that came with the PID can only switch 3A. I just got a PID that has the same model number and looks exactly the same, but the colour of the relay included is white, not blue like the one in the video. I just downloaded the specs for the built in relay its 10 Amps, 250V AC, 300W resistive load and the electrical endurance under those conditions is 50,000 operations - the mechanical endurance is 10 million operations - 50,000 operations is about 3 days of constant operation 5 seconds on and 5 seconds off - I assuming that either way counts as one operation. I am using this PID to control a heating element, that will be on a few hours at a time and then turned off. So I don't know what these ratings mean exactly, but I think that mine at least is safe to use as is straight out of the box without the SSR. If the relay fails then I will make the modification....
Thank you very much for your quick answer. As I am not familiar with all these, do you mean that the main supply should be in pin 3 and either 1 or 2, because I connected it to pins 1 and 2.
i picked the version that just has a couple of resistors instead off ebay. the resistors are crossed over though, not straight jumpers like you did "AC 110-240V Digital PID Temperature controller + 25A SSR + K thermocouple Sensor" came with a thermocouple and the same ssr.
I think we have the very same unit at my plant in chino regulating temperature in a 1000 gallon reactor but i remember that something was wrong with it. I will snap pics when I get a chance. It will give me an excuse to go to 23b.
I have not experimented with a cooling fan but I would suggest you look at the second relay that is fitted in the REX. This relay is triggered by setting the Alarm to whatever temperature you would like. Please look at the wiring diagram for the Alarm output. You will have to supply the 12 volts for the fan via the correct relay contacts and that 12 volts would be switched when the Alarm is triggered. But please confirm the correct contacts on your device. I will try to make a video for this.
Dear friend, I recently purchased from e-bay 3 REX C100 thermostats and I have watched your video which is fantastic. I need your help on something. I connected the PID to the main supply, attached a TC and checked with a multimeter at the connections 3-5 if there is any voltage there and there was not any although I was hearing the relay clicking. Is this normal? I need to wire a heating cable which works at 220 V, Should I do what you are describing her in order to work?Thank for your answer!
i have one of these for a sous virdi what is the max load of the inbuilt relay as i've had it hooked to control a lamp but not sure if it will tahe my slow cooker
So when the temp overshoots, the alarm relay allows to control some other device, for example something (peltier/etc) to cool the temp down...? I think it was indeed labeled as ALM1, so that's probably it. Won't be needing it, though :D
i got a seriouse question can you use a RELAY instead of a SSR if the relay need a 24vdc input to activate ? i think i got my own anwser i need a 12vdc relay input hehehe 7:00 around there he said to connect the 12v input HECK i need to use my multimatter now i need to know Edit1: i want to use the feature of NO and NC to quickly switch between cooling and heating without having to reprogram it will work but need a physical relay with those NC NO contact and a simple 3 pole switch Edit2: i confirm its 12v so i need 12v relay time to ebay this 1
this means i should open again the REX and look inside...hopping i would understand something. Perhaps you could figure it out, i've tryed with + and - and not working, and the original diagram of REX does nor corespond...could be a matter of settings?
the only thing that isnt clear is when using it to run an ssr is what cable connects to what on the pid?, there are 3 connections on the pid (3,4,5)and only 2 on the + and - going to the ssr itself, are only 2 used? if the 3rd is used as it seems for an ext voltage? then what and to what pin?, i have the same pid as in the video, i have finished the mod, i have checked the ssr and that seems to be functioning, to have defined ssr connection info for the modded pid will help decide if its a duff piece of kit or not, thx in advance
4. Make sure this supply has a fuse fitted somewhere. PLEASE check the correct terminal pin numbers are the same as on mine!!! Look at the terminal diagram label stuck on the REX This 220 supply should be fused and connected to pin 3.
I have been buying a couple of the REX c100 of ebay and i guess they are a cheap Chines copy .. I was thinking about the conversion to SSR and also a way to run it of 12 to 14.8 volt dc and i wonderd if you had any ideas on how to convert it ..
hey I am working on building a small crucible furnace and wanted to use the rex-c100. I saw another youtube vid showing how to raise the preset limits so its not shutoff @ 400'C. basically making your thermocouple lead the limiting factor on reading. but on ebay I see lots of the rex-C100 packs sold with the controller a thermocouple lead and a SSR for 21.99$ n free shipping. why would they sell the SSR with it if you have to remove parts for it to be used( which 99.99% of customers cant)
Hi, thank you for upload this Video. I Have a Temperature controller Autonics brand that it has relay output but i need a ssr out for the fater response that works the ssr. I know that the relay has a sloer respose. If i make this modification to my controler, would it speed up the activation response or it will be the same seep response with the difference that has no mechanic components? is the pulse freccuency higher that the needed to activate the mechanical relay? Sorry my bad english.
What's the other relay for? I unsoldered that one by accident, since my REX didn't have another one. So it was already ready to drive SSR's, but I didn't pay enough attention ;) I'm just wondering if I even need the other relay there.
no they sure don't. but the good news is the relay one I got works, well just like a relay. it doesn't supply the 120v AC from inside the unit. but any voltage hooked to it. so I got a LED driver off ebay for 3$ from china. with that hooked up it only switches that input to the SSR and a few led's to manage excess. no soldering or dismantling. it all fits nicely in the steel water heater brain box from the fleamarket. I gutted out the crap in there and kept the terminal block. cheap fix
sorry Trevs but i have a problem with the rex c100 after i did the mod and used it a few times the rex c100 doesn't feel the k-type thermocouple but i've tested it and it works with another device this happened after i played with the settings in the menu but i didn't changed the thermocouple type in the settings as i can't, it is predefined as k-type and you can't change it also the menu that shows with shift +menu don't show this is Chinese Berme rex c100FK02-V*AN DN i think something in the hardware not in the settings. is there anyway to reset the device to factory settings by pressing the keys ? by pressing menu+ down key for 3 sec menu shows with LAS,HAs,CAS but you can't change anything in it just show some values anything i can replace on the board ? can we use email for for fast respond ? thanks
i know the cause of the problem but i can't solve it the problem is sure software nothing in the hardware i have another rex c100 same thing for everything i just hold press set + down key and menu show with LAS, HAS, CAS and you can't change anything in it just pressed set 3 times to exit the menu and after that the PV reading is fixed on 34c and i can't reverse the process if i got to the menu again and reached CAS and pressed set the PV value change from 999 to down and if i got to the menu and pressed set while CAS is shown it returns to 34c but it can't read the actual temp what is the problem i have now 2 dead bodies with the same problem
Good day, I have a RKC RF100. Im making a temp controlled water bath, im using a small boiler element. Can you tell me where I can solders to bypass my relay. How can I contact you to send you images of my setup?
Hi, i'm just dumb, sorry, but i don't understand by you do this? i have the same model, haven't conected it yet, but want to know so i don't break it. I will use it to heat a 12v resistor, but i have 220v on my socket output......how do i conect it???? should i use a power switching before or after the pid? i mean, could i feed 12v to the PID? or it works only with 220? then i should conect the switching after the relay??? HELP!!!!!
I got the rex-C400 and it needs a relay not SSR, meaning the supplied SSR does not work with it... Ebay sellers don't know what they are selling anymore then a uninformed buyer knows what they are getting. Or the sellers just don't care. I will try this seen as the units which I have two of were only $20 including SSR and thermocouple. And the units I need seem to be $40 each...
that is a chinese knock off... I bought a rex-c100 on ebay that came with an ssr/ TC probe and heatsink for just over $20 and the internals are not the same as the ones in your video... It appears there are multiple versions of clones in china just like the STC-1000.
+fathergratwick There are multiple versions of the real thing with various output options as indicated in the manual the letter after the dash denotes which output type it had. But yes there are certainly clones given the low prices and Chinese manuals with some.
Thank you very much for the video and comments. I finally did modify the REX C100 and with the SSR works fine. The only thing noticed is that I purchased three REX C100 controllers, from which the one was smaller and the relay placed vertically. It seemed to me as a cheap replicate at first, but it worked fine. The only thing is that it needs more delicate handling in removing the relay compared to the other two ones. Thanks again for your useful video, could not have done it without it.
As others have said, wondered why the SSR wouldn't close, even though the instructions supplied said it was capable of SSR operation (have exactly the same model/sub model as your video subject), now I know why, and how to "fix" it.
Many thanks for the easy to follow instructions, and taking the time to do them
Saved me so much time and hassle. Thank you so very much for making this.
My model number was the same but the board looked slightly different however all the pins were the same and in the same places. Worked perfectly.
I am always glad if any video I make helps someone.
Thanks.
Was about to give up when I found your video. Followed your instructions, worked perfectly. Thanks!
REX-C100 FK02 (M) AN is Relay Contact Output and REX-C100 FK02 (V) AN is Relay SSR. Thanks to you I managed to make the conversion and wriggle out of a mess.
Thank you for posting this modification video.
Helped me a lot, runs perfectly as SSR output.
You my friend, are a KING! Salute!
Thank you very much for your tutorial; I have made use of the REX C100 as a controller for a 'sous vide' device that switches a rice cooker or slow cooker. Complete with fuses and heat sink. Again thanks fro your patience.
Just want to say thanks for making this video. It helped me modify a different PID controller.
nice work your video really helped me a lot as i reversed the process you did to convert my ssr relay version to normal relay this was big problem for me as i use dc heater and ssr don't work with DC volt i've removed the output resistors and soldered 12v relay and it works like charm i don't know how to thank you
I am always pleased to hear if my videos helped someone.
The Fotek SSR-25 DA you show has an input impedance of about 1600 ohms at 12v for a current of 7.5mA. Instead of the jumper wire, you might be able to use a 1600 ohm resistor as a current limiting resistor to protect the internals of the PID from a short. Or instead of this 1600 ohms, check the resistance of the existing relay and match it with a current limiting resistor.
Hi. Did you test this? Works fine?
Here is some info that was difficult to find on the net:
1) Manual calibration of the C100 - I found a bias of approx 2.3deg. C between the C100 and an accurate thermometer (at the range of 25-37C). To fix this - enter main manue by pressing "set" for 5sec. Then press "set" several times till tou reach "TC" where you can change the value shown by using the up and down arrows. Exit menue by pressing "set" for 5 sec.
2) Changing the display so that it shows a decimal point. Enter main manue (see above). Go to "Lcy" (or so it appears) and make sure it is set to "1000". Exit menue as above. Press "set + shift" for 5 seconds. The text "COD" will appear with "0000" bellow. Press "set" once to get to "SL1". Change the numbers bellow to "0111". Exit by pressing "set + shift" for 5 seconds.
3) Setting the upper and lower limits. Press "set + shift" for 5 seconds. The text "COD" will appear with "0000". Change the number to "0001". Press "set" to browse through the setting options including SLH (set limit high) and SLL (set limit low). You can change the limits using the arrows.
Once you've managed these, the unit seems to be working well and I found no need to change other parameters.
Thank you for share your knowledge. I am pretty sure that you saved the life of more than one (including me).
Thanks mate!! You saved my life :)
Please leave pins 1 and 2 alone! They are required to power the REX.
If you need to supply 220 volts to your heating cable and so long as it is less than 3 amps then you must supply 220 volts to pin 3 or 5, as they are linked by the relay internally, so the relay can switch it on and off for you on pin
4. Make sure this supply has a fuse fitted somewhere.
Excellent, it works. Thank you from Brazil, South America.
Good video very helpful as I have just purchased one to make sous vide converter for my crock pot the SSD you show is only capable of taking a load of 14 amps as that is the size of the triac at 230v ac ( see big clives channel for the triac) I think I will remove the plastic tab that holds the connectors in then solder them to the PCB plus your relay mode as Mine will fit into a case
Thanks for the video! Just finished the same mod today.
saved my life!!!
thanks for the video TMF. Solved my problem in 10 minutes
Thanks for the video, could you provide some insight on how you removed the existing relay.
Hi!
Could you please give me some advice?
I have a REX-C900FK06-M*AC (output RELAY) that is coupled to a 90-240 Vac input/15 Amps output SSR to power two band heaters which sum up 2.5 Amps. This setup is working fine so far, however, I am going to need to power 2 more band heaters (5 Amps in total) but accoding to the specs of this controller the contact rating for the relay output is 3A at 250Vac (as you have mentioned on you videos). Do you think there is a way I can power those 4 band heaters using the controller along with the AC-input SSR? Or
should I just get the controller modified (as you showed in the video) and then couple it to a DC-input SSR?
Hi
Your REX is working correctly!
You must supply the voltage that the relay is switching yourself.
You can supply 240 volts up to 3 amps maximum with the built in relay.
Look at 4 minutes 25 seconds--- pin 3 is where you supply the voltage to.
It is then switched by the relay.
If you need more than 3 amps then us the solid state relay option as described in the videos.
I would think this would be obvious...................... I guess not. ;)
Your are completelly right about the wiring regarding the C100, the realy wasnt working, and when I modify like you said it starts to work. Now I do have a question. My relay SSR still passing current, I measure and shows 120 V when on active, and 76 when inactive. Is there any problem on the SSR? What is your opinion on it?
the LED driver is a 3 x 1w 12-18v 300ma type. as you load it up with a few small led.s it drops the voltage towards the 12v end. I have used this supply to run 2 12v fans from CPU's. one is attached to an aluminum fin block. I am going to mount my SSR to that block and screw it to the side of my enclosure. so for 3$ I got voltage for my fans, proper signal voltage and power on display LED's. not too shabby
I still see many selling this PID on ebay with an SSR but on reading the output details of the listing, it is still only relay only. What happens if you connect to an SSR without the above modification?
Fantastic! would not it be necessary to use two resistors?
Hello! Verry good job! You did waht i was thinking to do. One question please. Do you think it's possible to put two SSR on the 4&5 outputs? I think yes but i don't know what amperage REX-C 100 could accept. Normaly SSR don't need to much current to work no? Sorry for my english because i'm from France.
Thanks a lot.
This is a very old video. But two SSR is fine. Very little power is required.
I wonder how to get a 4digit led display timer module connected to this hole pid controller, for building a 3d printer filament dryer box. 🤔
I have problems too find a easy MOS timer module that can run more than 999minutes 24/7 too. 😔
hi there, thanks for your video. what fuse needs to be used on the PID?
How about range? In description range is 0-400 degrees.
If I have K type termocouple probe that work at -100+1250 degrees, can this controller measure and control high temperature till 1250 degrees?
Thanks! Worked perfectly.
Just curious. I have the same kit, and have been running the SSR direct from the PID without modification. Why make this mod exactly, I don't quite get the logic, sorry. I would like to understand though.
BTW, you did give me a very good insight. I know for a fact that the cheap Chinese copies of this PID don't always work, I destroyed two in early play. Your pulling apart the box alerted me to the possibility that sometimes the outer casing is not always put on the right way, so, pull it apart to check that the pin designations are what they are actually meant to be. Cheers and thanks.
hello, how can I use the temperature controller for egg incubator. To control the fan as well as the light please help me
why not just use the alarm out to run the relay??
Hi, at first thanks a lot for this really helping video for electronics loser like me!!
I've done exactly the same modification in order to drive my SSR for an oven who cured carbon parts.
Unfortunatly doesnt works as good as in your video. The output green led is effectivly light on but the red one on the SSR stay light of, Try to measuring if any voltage comes of the 4 and 5 pins but nothing.
Could I ask you some help if you can identity the problem.
Thanks a lot in advance
Regards
I must have gotten lucky, I ordered one off of aliexpress and it came SSR ready for 22 bucks, included the ssr, heatsink, and K type as well. Just in case it helps any one else out its model number was REX-C-100FK02-V. I think that the "V" maybe stands for the low voltage output to control the SSR.
ElementCollector1001 - Yes, you have to be very careful with the part number - some models can control a SSR without modification... Those will ussually have the word SSR in the "Output" description on the side... Confusingly, some like the one on this video, will have the word "RELAY" printed on the side. This does NOT drive an SSR, it switches main power. Unfortunately I found out too late.
same here when I bought mine 3 years ago... no need to reinvent the wheel
You can however easily modify the relay controls to drive an SSR
thank you trev, very clear
One question please...do you know how can i control a 12v cooling fan when the previous set temperature is reached?
You have a counterfeit Fotek SSR in the video.
P.S. They now have an SSR option so no need to modify. Sold together w the SSR relay and TC on ebay.
they had that 3 years ago when I bought mine for 22 bucks shiped with the ssr , heatsink and thermocouple.. as little workshop stated there are different models so its wiser just to buy the right one.
Does rex c100 has a dc voltage output or just a relay? Do we need an additional dc source to supply ssr?
Very nice modification! Did this to my rex-c-100, but cant seem to get the 12v pid output stable enough(measuring 12,2 when conected to the ssr). The ssr output is kind of stuttering outputing a voltage of 200-230v when i measure with my multimeter. The ssr i working properly when suplying it with a 9v battery. Anywon else having the same problem? what can i have done wrong? thx from diy guy=)
Thank you very much for the help. I keep on coming back to the same issue. I will connect then the main supply to pin 3 after being fused, and to pin 5, while the heating cable will be connected to 3 and 4? Sorry for not understanding much, I am an agronomist not engineer so please forgive me for insisting on this.
What am I missing? It would seem that the unit described in the video has a relay that switches main power on and off. And it's being modified so that it now has intermittent 12V power being switched on and off. This 12V power is now input to a SSR which switches main power on and off, which is what the unmodified PID was doing strains out of the box!
***** OK so now I am going to answer my own question. The presenter in the TelevisionMagForum video says that the relay that came with the PID can only switch 3A. I just got a PID that has the same model number and looks exactly the same, but the colour of the relay included is white, not blue like the one in the video. I just downloaded the specs for the built in relay its 10 Amps, 250V AC, 300W resistive load and the electrical endurance under those conditions is 50,000 operations - the mechanical endurance is 10 million operations -
50,000 operations is about 3 days of constant operation 5 seconds on and 5 seconds off - I assuming that either way counts as one operation. I am using this PID to control a heating element, that will be on a few hours at a time and then turned off.
So I don't know what these ratings mean exactly, but I think that mine at least is safe to use as is straight out of the box without the SSR. If the relay fails then I will make the modification....
Thank you very much for your quick answer. As I am not familiar with all these, do you mean that the main supply should be in pin 3 and either 1 or 2, because I connected it to pins 1 and 2.
i picked the version that just has a couple of resistors instead off ebay. the resistors are crossed over though, not straight jumpers like you did
"AC 110-240V Digital PID Temperature controller + 25A SSR + K thermocouple Sensor" came with a thermocouple and the same ssr.
I have the same unit. The 25A SSR would get really hot. I used it to automate fractional distillation.
Pascal Roget yeah needs a big heatsink otherwise the SSR's metal lugs will eventually break off with the cool/heat cycle
I think we have the very same unit at my plant in chino regulating temperature in a 1000 gallon reactor but i remember that something was wrong with it. I will snap pics when I get a chance.
It will give me an excuse to go to 23b.
What are you using yours for? Sous vide cooking? Coffee? Drug synthesis? :-)
nothing that cool ;) soldering hot plate
I have not experimented with a cooling fan but I would suggest you look at the second relay that is fitted in the REX. This relay is triggered by setting the Alarm to whatever temperature you would like.
Please look at the wiring diagram for the Alarm output.
You will have to supply the 12 volts for the fan via the correct relay contacts and that 12 volts would be switched when the Alarm is triggered.
But please confirm the correct contacts on your device.
I will try to make a video for this.
Dear friend,
I recently purchased from e-bay 3 REX C100 thermostats and I have watched your video which is fantastic. I need your help on something. I connected the PID to the main supply, attached a TC and checked with a multimeter at the connections 3-5 if there is any voltage there and there was not any although I was hearing the relay clicking. Is this normal? I need to wire a heating cable which works at 220 V, Should I do what you are describing her in order to work?Thank for your answer!
Thank you
i have one of these for a sous virdi what is the max load of the inbuilt relay as i've had it hooked to control a lamp but not sure if it will tahe my slow cooker
So when the temp overshoots, the alarm relay allows to control some other device, for example something (peltier/etc) to cool the temp down...?
I think it was indeed labeled as ALM1, so that's probably it. Won't be needing it, though :D
i got a seriouse question can you use a RELAY instead of a SSR if the relay need a 24vdc input to activate ?
i think i got my own anwser i need a 12vdc relay input hehehe
7:00 around there he said to connect the 12v input
HECK i need to use my multimatter now i need to know
Edit1: i want to use the feature of NO and NC to quickly switch between cooling and heating without having to reprogram
it will work but need a physical relay with those NC NO contact and a simple 3 pole switch
Edit2: i confirm its 12v so i need 12v relay time to ebay this 1
What would happen if you used the internal relay to drive the external relay?
Great works well. Thanks!
this means i should open again the REX and look inside...hopping i would understand something. Perhaps you could figure it out, i've tryed with + and - and not working, and the original diagram of REX does nor corespond...could be a matter of settings?
the only thing that isnt clear is when using it to run an ssr is what cable connects to what on the pid?, there are 3 connections on the pid (3,4,5)and only 2 on the + and - going to the ssr itself, are only 2 used? if the 3rd is used as it seems for an ext voltage? then what and to what pin?, i have the same pid as in the video, i have finished the mod, i have checked the ssr and that seems to be functioning, to have defined ssr connection info for the modded pid will help decide if its a duff piece of kit or not, thx in advance
4. Make sure this supply has a fuse fitted somewhere.
PLEASE check the correct terminal pin numbers are the same as on mine!!!
Look at the terminal diagram label stuck on the REX
This 220 supply should be fused and connected to pin 3.
Maksud nya ini output Relay d rubah menjadi output ssr begitu bukan
First control output [out1] (heat-side)
Rex C100 FK02-V=Voltage pulse SSR
" " " -M=Relay Pulse
" " " -G=Trigger(for triac driving)
I have been buying a couple of the REX c100 of ebay and i guess they are a cheap Chines copy .. I was thinking about the conversion to SSR and also a way to run it of 12 to 14.8 volt dc and i wonderd if you had any ideas on how to convert it ..
I took out the built-in relay to find out it is rated for 10A at 250v not 3A. Still, those are probably Chinese amps, so I guess it's a good thing.
hey I am working on building a small crucible furnace and wanted to use the rex-c100. I saw another youtube vid showing how to raise the preset limits so its not shutoff @ 400'C. basically making your thermocouple lead the limiting factor on reading. but on ebay I see lots of the rex-C100 packs sold with the controller a thermocouple lead and a SSR for 21.99$ n free shipping. why would they sell the SSR with it if you have to remove parts for it to be used( which 99.99% of customers cant)
Hi, thank you for upload this Video. I Have a Temperature controller Autonics brand that it has relay output but i need a ssr out for the fater response that works the ssr. I know that the relay has a sloer respose. If i make this modification to my controler, would it speed up the activation response or it will be the same seep response with the difference that has no mechanic components?
is the pulse freccuency higher that the needed to activate the mechanical relay?
Sorry my bad english.
What's the other relay for? I unsoldered that one by accident, since my REX didn't have another one. So it was already ready to drive SSR's, but I didn't pay enough attention ;) I'm just wondering if I even need the other relay there.
no they sure don't. but the good news is the relay one I got works, well just like a relay. it doesn't supply the 120v AC from inside the unit. but any voltage hooked to it. so I got a LED driver off ebay for 3$ from china. with that hooked up it only switches that input to the SSR and a few led's to manage excess. no soldering or dismantling. it all fits nicely in the steel water heater brain box from the fleamarket. I gutted out the crap in there and kept the terminal block. cheap fix
Can you set the alarm to be activated at 120 degrees for 9999 seconds.
Even though the set value is 200 degrees? Many Thanks
I expect the other relay is for the Alarm output.
sorry Trevs but i have a problem with the rex c100 after i did the mod and used it a few times the rex c100 doesn't feel the k-type thermocouple but i've tested it and it works with another device this happened after i played with the settings in the menu but i didn't changed the thermocouple type in the settings as i can't, it is predefined as k-type and you can't change it also the menu that shows with shift +menu don't show this is Chinese Berme rex c100FK02-V*AN DN i think something in the hardware not in the settings. is there anyway to reset the device to factory settings by pressing the keys ?
by pressing menu+ down key for 3 sec menu shows with LAS,HAs,CAS but you can't change anything in it just show some values
anything i can replace on the board ?
can we use email for for fast respond ?
thanks
i know the cause of the problem but i can't solve it the problem is sure software nothing in the hardware i have another rex c100 same thing for everything i just hold press set + down key and menu show with LAS, HAS, CAS and you can't change anything in it just pressed set 3 times to exit the menu and after that the PV reading is fixed on 34c and i can't reverse the process if i got to the menu again and reached CAS and pressed set the PV value change from 999 to down and if i got to the menu and pressed set while CAS is shown it returns to 34c but it can't read the actual temp what is the problem i have now 2 dead bodies with the same problem
Good day, I have a RKC RF100. Im making a temp controlled water bath, im using a small boiler element. Can you tell me where I can solders to bypass my relay. How can I contact you to send you images of my setup?
Sorry. I can not help. This is a 7 year old video and I do not have any further information.
@@Trevs-Shed thanks for the reply anyway
Hi, i'm just dumb, sorry, but i don't understand by you do this? i have the same model, haven't conected it yet, but want to know so i don't break it.
I will use it to heat a 12v resistor, but i have 220v on my socket output......how do i conect it???? should i use a power switching before or after the pid? i mean, could i feed 12v to the PID? or it works only with 220? then i should conect the switching after the relay??? HELP!!!!!
ModulArt22 the rising panic is amusing
I got the rex-C400 and it needs a relay not SSR, meaning the supplied SSR does not work with it...
Ebay sellers don't know what they are selling anymore then a uninformed buyer knows what they are getting. Or the sellers just don't care.
I will try this seen as the units which I have two of were only $20 including SSR and thermocouple. And the units I need seem to be $40 each...
Thats U buy relay version.. other version is mosfet
my device...by the way..it' identical
that is a chinese knock off... I bought a rex-c100 on ebay that came with an ssr/ TC probe and heatsink for just over $20 and the internals are not the same as the ones in your video... It appears there are multiple versions of clones in china just like the STC-1000.
+fathergratwick There are multiple versions of the real thing with various output options as indicated in the manual the letter after the dash denotes which output type it had. But yes there are certainly clones given the low prices and Chinese manuals with some.