I'm hoping I can get the second part of this injector out!. after it snapped!!! enjoy the video and you find it useful. It may help you in tackling yours. thanks
Had a right result there Mark! Nice. You should mark your drill bit to the depth you need with a bit of tape, that way you're not dicking around stopping to measure all the time. Also, after you have cleaned the sleeve holes, before you insert the injectors grease up the sleeves with some anti seize high temp grease like ceramic or graphite brake grease, future proof those bad boys 😂 Great job buddy 👍
@@tinker-time yep that’s where it rots in the most right on the end, read an interesting post where a guy torques to 70Nm and leaves for an hour then every hour re-torques to 70Nm if no joy he takes it to 120Nm and leaves it checking at 120Nm every hour, slow n steady I may try it on my 2 remaining injectors
I was thinking at one point to get it red hot, then pour cold water on it to crack it off, while it was under streese on the puller ,but itso tight in sleeve I don't think water would get in there, really nightmare, and really it the engineer only fault shame really
@@tinker-time yes if only they had left a little more room in there life would be so much easier and a scuttle seal that was fit for purpose, my new ones are in with a smear of ceramic grease hopefully ltll help in future
@@tinker-time my vans fq9 engine dci100 Took me 3 days to get injector number 2 out I wasn't giving up and managed to do it, when I replaced with new injectors the seat was leaking, so I bought a cutting tool, cut about 0.2 mm as they were bad, assembled everything started it up and it was still leaking, disassembled again and cut it ABIT more, then realised the cutting tool has to be perfectly 90 degrees while cutting for the copper washer to sit perfectly and create a seal, bingo when I re assembled and Torque down the clamp it sealed that was 2 years ago and no leaks since, was saying to my missis last night watching your latest vid, it's like watching everything I had to go with my sized injector except my engine was still in the van 😂
Well done on getting that injector out, Mark. Most people would have given up long ago. Regarding the clamping bolt, as long as you don't drill into a water jacket or oil gallery, it should be ok. You need to consider stopping water getting down there in the first place. Are the bulkhead drains/engine covers ok?
Cheers mate, I only drill the 10mm part in out didn't go any more, the bulkhead on the van the engine going in is just leaking water on the engine in video I did on that the injectior look like there have been the sea fir years,! 🙄 I'll seal it all up when fit this other engine in the van 👍
Well done Mark finally getting them all out you never give up and like the idea you have to secure the clamp back on with drilling it out and retap it 👍
Cheers mate 👍, doesn't seem odd drilling the engine but I hoping its all going to work out, when I get all engine parts swapped and the engine over into the other van,
yer mate just abit👍now making all sorts of tools now to get these injectors out, it was rally stuck in that tip, thought id snapped the tool in the thread part, next up engine out on the other van, !
Didnt mean to watch this it just played after watching another video. Well done getting the injector tip out. Take this as a grain if salt but One thing il say is the injector clamps studs are designed to exspand with heat now you put a big m12 bolt in id imagine you can end up putting too much clamping tourqe on the injector itself especially as thermal expansion takes hold and in time cause isues with injector warping something i watched a injector specialist reconditioning injectors talk about in another video where the pintle becomes tight in the injector body from the injector clamp force not being quite dead centre on the injector body/overtouqing them in. Just something to keep in mind. If it was me id thread insert and use new oem size injector clamp studs. Im sure what you have done will work fine. great job in any case!
Hey mate cheers for that 👍👍 make sense alot of sence that reading what you have put, I could drill the rest out to m8 I only did the bit that was 10mm, so I could do a o.e bolt , thanks for taking the time to do this reply 👍
Hi Mark I think the pnumatic injector removal tool would work a lot better with a bigger ID air line and possibly a bigger compressor if you are using a small one ,great videos by the way ,showing it all warts and all
Instead of drilling the engine, could you of got some,10 mm bolts and just turned the end down and re thread to 8mm, so bolt 10 mm at top were water gets in and 8 mm at the bottom. Even put the bolt on a lathe and cut a recess the 10 mm side to take an O ring.
Hi That's a good idea, mate 👍 the top where the head is , is 10mm it was good for a guide when I was drilling it out , but a could still cut a Grove in these m10 to take a thicker O ring 👍👍
I had 3 injectors frozen in tried everything also applied 15 tons and it broke the the hydraulic tool, I ended up having to replace it with a reconditioned engine by the time I finished it cost me £3800 , for a Mr9. 630 , engine
ho heck mate thats not good , have you seen the other video where this engine going in that white van, the injector look like they have been in sea! i'll give them ago when the engine comes out. but i think it smash the engine
I’ve been working on cars all my life I’m 61 you are really doing the right thing by applying logic and skill ie making tools etc as you probably aware these vans are a total nightmare unless they have been garaged or the scuttle panel was sealed from day one you’ll going to be in for a bad time trying to remove the injectors , when doing some research I found that they use a vibration puller at 30 ton then the injectors that snap off in the cylinder head the drill out and tap then try pulling again. I’ve watched one of your videos and you were wondering what engine you were working on it’s a 2.0 cdti M9r 630 engine exactly the same one that I had to remove and replaced with recondition one. Hope this is some help to you and carry on making the videos are very enjoyable.
I'll check the engine code in other white van, there proper siezied in, and have a feeling thing will be snapping , my welding and hold 5ton per sq inch, I think it will be put to the test on them other injector, I've email pincher tooling to see if they want put there puller up against these injector but heard nothing back as yet, Thank for watching and subscribing 👍👍
Hi Mark I pulled 2 more injectors today with a warm engine, what a game changer I’ve uploaded a short video of the last one being pulled, get em warm and wow what a difference, we couldn’t believe how much easier it was compared to the previous ones pulled from cold : th-cam.com/video/uSE3Qo-Nr1U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=TJSz5sI46_OuYc9J
Had a right result there Mark! Nice. You should mark your drill bit to the depth you need with a bit of tape, that way you're not dicking around stopping to measure all the time. Also, after you have cleaned the sleeve holes, before you insert the injectors grease up the sleeves with some anti seize high temp grease like ceramic or graphite brake grease, future proof those bad boys 😂 Great job buddy 👍
That’s great seeing you remove that broken injector! Well done!
Cheers thanks, 👍 did feel like it some thing was about to snap tho, lucky it cracked and came out 👍
Well done Mark, it’s great when that snapped bit comes out ok, the joy is indescribable after all the hassle
Cherrs 👍did think I'd snapped the thread off. It was properly stuck in that bit,
@@tinker-time yep that’s where it rots in the most right on the end, read an interesting post where a guy torques to 70Nm and leaves for an hour then every hour re-torques to 70Nm if no joy he takes it to 120Nm and leaves it checking at 120Nm every hour, slow n steady I may try it on my 2 remaining injectors
I was thinking at one point to get it red hot, then pour cold water on it to crack it off, while it was under streese on the puller ,but itso tight in sleeve I don't think water would get in there, really nightmare, and really it the engineer only fault shame really
@@tinker-time yes if only they had left a little more room in there life would be so much easier and a scuttle seal that was fit for purpose, my new ones are in with a smear of ceramic grease hopefully ltll help in future
Don't forget when you have cleaned out the injector bored, to re-ream the injector seats, I had fun with mine leaking even with new copper washers.
yer i bought one of them cutting tools for the washer seats they do look abit rough looking down the holes
@@tinker-time my vans fq9 engine dci100
Took me 3 days to get injector number 2 out I wasn't giving up and managed to do it, when I replaced with new injectors the seat was leaking, so I bought a cutting tool, cut about 0.2 mm as they were bad, assembled everything started it up and it was still leaking, disassembled again and cut it ABIT more, then realised the cutting tool has to be perfectly 90 degrees while cutting for the copper washer to sit perfectly and create a seal, bingo when I re assembled and Torque down the clamp it sealed that was 2 years ago and no leaks since, was saying to my missis last night watching your latest vid, it's like watching everything I had to go with my sized injector except my engine was still in the van 😂
Wow it hard work when it in the van not much room, well done tho on getting it out 👍, just got to jump in and have a go 👍
Nice one fella goes to show where there’s a will theirs a way 👍
Cheers mate 👍,
Well done on getting that injector out, Mark. Most people would have given up long ago. Regarding the clamping bolt, as long as you don't drill into a water jacket or oil gallery, it should be ok. You need to consider stopping water getting down there in the first place. Are the bulkhead drains/engine covers ok?
Cheers mate, I only drill the 10mm part in out didn't go any more, the bulkhead on the van the engine going in is just leaking water on the engine in video I did on that the injectior look like there have been the sea fir years,! 🙄 I'll seal it all up when fit this other engine in the van 👍
You done well mark 👍👍👍😊
Cheers mate 👍, hope it all holds up when I come fitting it and getting it going in the van 👍
Brilliant idea for the bigger bolt, ive got lots to do, now my timing chain has jumped ( no thanks to RAC, who tried to start it)
🤦♂️ sound like a nightmare mate, try claim off the RAC maybe 🤔
grats bro, was rooting for you!
cheers mate, thanks it still put up some fight but i got they in the end 👍
Well done Mark finally getting them all out you never give up and like the idea you have to secure the clamp back on with drilling it out and retap it 👍
You can come with your fancy home made tools to Scotland when mine go and need changing will give you a free holiday 😀
Cheers mate 👍, doesn't seem odd drilling the engine but I hoping its all going to work out, when I get all engine parts swapped and the engine over into the other van,
Well done buddy what a relief for you, hey 👍
yer mate just abit👍now making all sorts of tools now to get these injectors out, it was rally stuck in that tip, thought id snapped the tool in the thread part,
next up engine out on the other van, !
Didnt mean to watch this it just played after watching another video. Well done getting the injector tip out. Take this as a grain if salt but One thing il say is the injector clamps studs are designed to exspand with heat now you put a big m12 bolt in id imagine you can end up putting too much clamping tourqe on the injector itself especially as thermal expansion takes hold and in time cause isues with injector warping something i watched a injector specialist reconditioning injectors talk about in another video where the pintle becomes tight in the injector body from the injector clamp force not being quite dead centre on the injector body/overtouqing them in. Just something to keep in mind. If it was me id thread insert and use new oem size injector clamp studs. Im sure what you have done will work fine. great job in any case!
Hey mate cheers for that 👍👍 make sense alot of sence that reading what you have put, I could drill the rest out to m8 I only did the bit that was 10mm, so I could do a o.e bolt , thanks for taking the time to do this reply 👍
I pull these things out for a living and regularly need 18 to 20 tones to get them out. Watching this makes me laugh
Now you tell me 🤣 do you use the pincher set up?
Done my first one with a 10T puller then got the tip out with a similar tool to what Marks using, wasn’t any bother
Well done lad, gained a new subscriber
Hey cheers mate thank you. I hope my video's can help you out in some way 👍👍
Hi Mark I think the pnumatic injector removal tool would work a lot better with a bigger ID air line and possibly a bigger compressor if you are using a small one ,great videos by the way ,showing it all warts and all
I've 32amp 200lt 3hp, industrial, think I mite try ¾ hose tho increase air flow 👍
I was looking forward to this video well done you're a star Mark
Thanks, abit worried at the start with another home made, tool but it worked out in the end 👍
Glad you liked it 👍
Well done mate. 👏
Cheers 👍 these injector on these engines just feel like they welded in 🤦♂️
@@tinker-time ive got the primastar. dreading this job
Buzzing dude 🎉
Yer, well happy it came out 👍👍 mate
Instead of drilling the engine, could you of got some,10 mm bolts and just turned the end down and re thread to 8mm, so bolt 10 mm at top were water gets in and 8 mm at the bottom. Even put the bolt on a lathe and cut a recess the 10 mm side to take an O ring.
Hi
That's a good idea, mate 👍 the top where the head is , is 10mm it was good for a guide when I was drilling it out , but a could still cut a Grove in these m10 to take a thicker O ring 👍👍
I had 3 injectors frozen in tried everything also applied 15 tons and it broke the the hydraulic tool, I ended up having to replace it with a reconditioned engine by the time I finished it cost me £3800 , for a Mr9. 630 , engine
ho heck mate thats not good , have you seen the other video where this engine going in that white van, the injector look like they have been in sea! i'll give them ago when the engine comes out. but i think it smash the engine
I’ve been working on cars all my life I’m 61 you are really doing the right thing by applying logic and skill ie making tools etc as you probably aware these vans are a total nightmare unless they have been garaged or the scuttle panel was sealed from day one you’ll going to be in for a bad time trying to remove the injectors , when doing some research I found that they use a vibration puller at 30 ton then the injectors that snap off in the cylinder head the drill out and tap then try pulling again. I’ve watched one of your videos and you were wondering what engine you were working on it’s a 2.0 cdti M9r 630 engine exactly the same one that I had to remove and replaced with recondition one. Hope this is some help to you and carry on making the videos are very enjoyable.
I'll check the engine code in other white van, there proper siezied in, and have a feeling thing will be snapping , my welding and hold 5ton per sq inch, I think it will be put to the test on them other injector, I've email pincher tooling to see if they want put there puller up against these injector but heard nothing back as yet,
Thank for watching and subscribing 👍👍
@@tinker-time yeah I went and tried welding threaded bar it snapped at 15 tons 😡lol total pain best of luck with removing yours 🤞
Hi Mark I pulled 2 more injectors today with a warm engine, what a game changer I’ve uploaded a short video of the last one being pulled, get em warm and wow what a difference, we couldn’t believe how much easier it was compared to the previous ones pulled from cold : th-cam.com/video/uSE3Qo-Nr1U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=TJSz5sI46_OuYc9J
Hi mate
Maybe the head getting warm abit makes them lose if get a running van that need doing I'll try it 👍👍
I wanted to share it with you so i hope you don’t mind me putting the link on here, I don’t know any other way of getting it to you
@@tinker-time yes I was lucky mine was a runner but the difference is amazing
I think there is a chemical which can help from a company called Tunap.
Cheers 👍 I'll look it up