I'm a shade tree mechanic, in my experience the jump battery, multi meter, grinder wheel are very useful tools to have. I would add to the list, magnet/retriever tools, not expensive but very handy when you drop a bolt or nut in a in accessible spot. Headache saver for sure.
I agree I have a flexible push button claw grabber with a magnet and it saves me headaches all the time. I also have some rare earth magnets I can electrical tape to a dowel or long rod and pick up very heavy things just doesn't work well in close quarters because it likes to stick to anything it gets close to.
Great list. Here's some small tools that go a long way: -telescoping magnet -pick tools -ratcheting wrenches -mechanic telescoping mirror -small grab tool -c clamp -vice grips
I remember buying Pick Tools at Harbor Freight thinking why am I buying these? Well, they have been so useful especially when changing Oil Filter Housing Gaskets on my Toyota Avalon!
Must have for me: -10mm wrench -10mm socket -10mm racket wrench -10mm crows foot -Impact (that accepts a 10mm socket) -10mm impact swivel -1/2 right angle impact (that accepts a 10mm) -10mm Irwin extractor -10mm tap and die
There is nothing special about a Fluke meter. The ONLY reason the government, including the military, uses them, is because they literally based all their specifications on them, and Fluke has stuck to those specifications, because they are making a fortune from it. My favorite multimeter is a 30+ year old AW Sperry clamp on type.
Actually a major reason for the Government's use of Fluke is because Fluke will calibrate it for you, which is often a Government Requirement. Granted on most work I use one of my many $3 Harbor Freight Multi-Meters. But when it is important, I use my Fluke@@geraldscott4302
As an older guy the battery powered tools are a Godsend! I recently changed the clutch on my Mk1 VW Jetta. My 20V mini-impact gun made bolting and unbolting the transaxle a breeze. It would've been a nightmare with a ratchet wrench. Even air tools are a pain, what with the hose and the air-blasts and the noise and wait times of the compressor. I couldn't imagine doing any work without my battery powered impact tools. The days of hand-ratcheting nuts and bolts are over!
I haven't found a bolt that a long enough breaker bar won't loosen. Just what are the torque specs on those bolts? I can put 100 lb.ft. of torque on a bolt with a 12" ratchet.
I managed to snag the kobalt right angle impact when it was @ $99. It's great, and man an compact-head 3/8 extended electric ratchet is truly one of the best tools ever.
Scanner - For advanced DIY, Launch has the Elite x431 that is loaded by auto brand. It has the full 2 way communications and module support in including test activation. You can add other brands if needed, so for an example, I have VW + Mercedes library for the cars we have at home. No yearly subscription. Having a limited library saves a lot of money yet keeping performance.
The more modern version of a torch I support this as it works better at targeting the nut and or bolt. One thing is the torch can make steel liquid if needed
Another great video, thank you. As an old retired auto tech of 42 years, 32 of them as a shop owner with ASE certifications and employees I would like to add what I think is the most important tool. That’s the one between your ears. A good basic understanding of physics, basic electronics, the application of logic and how to access information is very important. You can have a wonderfully skilled set of hands but without knowledge and understanding they won’t do you any good. Also if you’re planning to open a shop add business classes to the mix. And just a last comment. Electric power tools are getting better and better and very handy. But when it comes to tightening something, always recheck it with a hand tool to make sure. I’ve seen to many oops come back. 😊😊
One of the things I have learned from you videos is to find a trustworthy mechanic and to follow his advice. I have found a good one by word of mouth and am quite happy. I am older and arthritic so I can no longer do my own work. I would rather spend money on my 1988 vehicle than purchase a new one that costs more than my first 3 homes combined. I am lucky to live in Arizona where I do not have to worry about rust.
Man, I don't know what I would replace with it but I feel a serpentine belt tensioner tool should have been on the list. Especially with how tight many cars are to get to the tensioner.
Oh, that's easy! Just take the end of a breaker bar after you snapped it off trying to loosen a CV Axle-nut and just weld it to a 1/8th inch thick strip of flat steel; problem solved!
Tools are a real problem. The more you have, the more you need. I found that staying out of tool shops helpful. Cordless, high torque drivers are a blessing. You need a couple of those. Thanks for an absolutely fantastic post. Off to the shop to buy a new compressor.
Those spring clamp pliers are one of the best investments I've ever made in terms of saving time and headaches, and scraped up knuckles and bent radiator fins
I purchased my compressor and the beginning of my air tools about 20 years ago. I like the battery tools, and have one long reach rachet, but I can't justify the cost for the amount of use they would get.
I just discovered the power probe last year after hearing the wizard talk about it before. It made a troubleshooting job so easy it was unbelievable. Saved me many hours of time not needing a helper. I got it on amazon in one day for way less than even harbor freights price. I forgot to use the wizards link though. Sorry.
Second place has to go to the angle grinder. I used to absolutely hate working on exhaust systems until my dad bought one… what a timesaver! You aren’t going to reuse the hardware, pipes, or mufflers, so just cut it all off and get it done so you can connect the new exhaust!
I almost didn't watch this! What could I possibly still learn after 50 years turning a wrench? Well I picked up two new items for my toolbox!! I got the hose clamp tool and the relay jumper. Super useful! Thank you!
A piece of brake line in a rubber hose is one of the best stethoscopes I've used, does both jobs is free and flexible, multi purpose, blow gun extension
So as a "boomer" who has only used air tools, it doesnt seem like a "long, long time ago". I still use them . Battery powered are good for in the mobile toolbox. And I have an impact wrench and angle grinder in that box. But Im 100% air power in my shop. More torque than electric too. And if you do any body work, its a must have. My tire changer doesnt run on batteries either., so theres that too.
Yeah, those huge $5,000-$6,000 3 phase air compressors are best used for large scale tire installation (think multiple bays of cars or trucks at 4-6 tires per vehicle or even more if you’re talking heavy duty trucks) but I myself have a small 20 gallon compressor that meets all of my needs for the home garage.
It was a long long time ago in the sense that you have to consider not today but the year that the decision was made to get the air compressor and tools for it. Continuing to use what you have if it works for you, is just common sense. You really don't need more torque than modern battery powered impact wrenches can provide. Granted some may have a h arder time fitting in tight spaces.
Agree about the angle grinder except a caution should be given to those unfamiliar. A guard should be included as the cut off wheel will explode and send pieces everywhere.
I had a guard on mine and a disk exploded. Screwed up my finger a little bit but those flying pieces of disk would have hit me right in the face without the guard on.
Yes, absolutely, thank you! Personally I never use the guard anymore and always take it off when I get a new grinder, but I have 25 yrs (+) of experience under my belt so I don't really need one and know how to deal with it, but if yer new, absolutely, yes! Also, I would like to note that with that experience comes enough wisdom to still use a face shield every time!
Milwaukee Fuel battery powered tools are great but the best I've used are Hilti. They do cost an arm and a leg but the batteries charge up faster than any other brand, their capabilities are unmatched and although I've never experienced one breaking but if they do Hilti replace them with new no questions asked unless it's a case of perfectly obvious abuse like dropping the tool into sea water and leaving it there for some time. Others we used that worked fine were Bosch blue, Makita, AEG and Hitachi.
Actually, that geiger counter could be very useful, for Japanese imports. Seriously there have been a number of instances around the world where Japanese import cars have turned out to be highly radioactive. Some unscroupulous guys had been pulling cars, mainly exotics and rarities, out of the Fukushima prefecture and re registering to another prefecture, then exporting them.
My uncle worked with a recycling company for a few years and they had an incident where scrap metal from Russia had a high level radiation source embedded in the scrap. He got heavily exposed before it was detected and a decade later he developed multiple cancers. The health authorities seriously messed up and he was informed only 5 years after the first detection. Against all odds he survived the treatments and lives a full life today.
Just because you parked your car in Fukushima doesn’t mean it’s going to be a significant source of radiation contamination, assuming you washed it (dust and all that.) Unless it was parked next door to one of the damaged containment buildings. It doesn’t work like that. So much concern about the release of water from that incident. The Pacific Ocean is a very big drink of water, heh. Still, having a Geiger counter is _never_ a bad idea.
@@declanfarberUnfortunately, you would appear to have a hollywood movie grasp of nuclear radiation. It's not as simple as just washing radioactive dust off, that's why there are a half a dozen or so Bradley fighting vehicles shipped back and buried in Arizona, they were damaged in friendly fire incidents involving DU ammunition in Iraq. When it is too difficut and expensive to successfully decontaminate and repair a multi million dollar military vehicle I don't think anyone is going to decontaminate a Datsun, especially considering the contaminating isotopes at Fukushima were orders of magnitude more dangerous than those produced by DU - we're talking cesium and cobalt. As for 'Unless it was parked next door to one of the damaged containment buildings.' ...the contamination was widespread, to this day an 800 sqkm exclusion zone exists with only limited access.
One tool i keep in my tool box is a pair or several pairs of locking hemostats (like used in surgery)..one pair i have magnetized so if i drop a bolt or nut down somewhere i can easily retrive it...that thing has saved my bacon more than once
You know car wizard, this is exactly the content that makes me appreciate you, you want to share your knowledge with others, i respect that a lot, keep up the good work man
Been using the Milwaukee 12 volt tools for twenty years now. Does just about everything but the last turn. Reliable and plenty strong for most all of my woodworking. Judging from that their 18 volt stuff is doubtless the best.
I've have been a mechanic for years specializing in electrical repairs. Long before they came out with relay testers I took 2 old relays and on one I put a push button on it to manual activate the circuit. On the other I put 2 LEDs on it. One red and one green to test to light up if it has power and activated
My favorite tool currently is my electric ratchet. I’m 6 years into building my own cars & it’s always cool when I find a new tool I can use on a regular
An alternative to the power probe is the TOPDON version that also has an oscilloscope. That scope function is brilliant for chasing intermittent signal drops in ignition modules and injectors when you can see what's happening. It was my best tool purchase last year.
10 essential tools plus the pile of odds and ends that’s been accumulating the last 20 years thinking this bolt, screw, or part will come in handy one day 😅
One thing I would recommend for your shop since you have a fairly large shop is picknup a used walk behind floor scrubber like they use at Costco, Grocery stores. You can clean the whole shop in half hour and better than just sweeping or mopping the floor will do. We have two Tennant scrubbers at our shop and we work on heavy equipment that bring in lots of dirt.
I used to deliver parts to shops for a national auto parts store chain. One shop, specializing in diesels, had a floor machine and they used it frequently. That was an amazing shop to walk into. It almost looked like the waxed the floor, and maybe they did.
If OBD2 is all you care about, just get one of those $20 dongles that bluetooth or wifi links to your phone, then torque or whichever other app you find most useful for your make of vehicle.
I really like my MK808ts, it's done everything I need so far with my BMW's. I purchased the BT506 battery diagnostic add on tool that works with it, haven't tried anything with TPMS programming. Before the subscription expired in 2023 I downloaded as many popular models into the device as I could so at least diagnose everything up to that point
Somehow this reminds me of the Mastercard commercial with MacGyver fixing a 18 Wheeler with a pair of tweezers, a Swiss army knife and a roll of ducttape
Love the content Wizard! I am 43 and 20 year tech now I am solo in the sticks and still run all on air I can't justify it as all my air stuff works great. I do have some electric but prefer air. Great video!
Once they all start to fail a bit, and arent as strong as you thought they are, youll notice. My grandpa swore by his air for so long, till one day He goes to put a wheel on, and hammers the shit out of it. I came by and loosened that lug by hand... Just two fingers... He said "WT FLYING FUCK" and thrw it in the trash and subsequently bought battery tools. They work when they work but when they dont.... its hard ot notice without double checking stuff. NTB / Tire king has been sued for wheels falling off due to people using air tools and never checking with a torque wrench... because they overly trusted that air tool...
Dave, thanks to your recommending Mountain reversible ratcheting wrenches with flexible heads in an earlier video, I was able to loosen the bolt from hell: a 15 mm fastener behind the back of the intake manifold on my 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis. It's been called the hardest part of the job of replacing the intake manifold on that car. What a wonderful feeling when I got the head around that sucker and it cracked loose. The sound of success. Thanks for the tip!
Just got my mid-rise installed (which involved unboxing, connecting lines filling with hydraulic fluid, and plugging in. No concrete work, unpack and work. It's a back saver. I can already tell. 😅
If you can't fit a lift, don't have the space, do mostly restoration work or don't own the building, get a pair of identical professional grade trolley jacks. That way you can quickly and safely lift one end of the car at a time...
I’ve spent 30 years wrenching. I like all the tools you mentioned, but you forgot the most important and valuable tool of all. The pocket screwdriver. They come in handy for so many things that don’t involve turning a screw. When we were slow at the Saturn dealer after the 9/11 attacks we put together a list of uses for a pocket screwdriver and came up with almost 40 uses for it.
Been working on our cars for over 30 yrs. I still enjoy using air tools. (They are Powerful, inexpensive, very dependable, low maintenance and takes up less space. I thought of some other tools that might come in handy: 1) Head led light. Nothing like being able to use both hands and shine the light where your looking. 2) Under hood led light. Lights up the entire engine bay when working. 3) Small magnetic led light 4) Welder 5) Plasma cutter 6) Floor creeper for those of us that don't have a lift. 7) Stubby air wrench. Great getting into those small spaces. 8) Hand wrench with an extendable handle, for more torque. 9) Bolt extractor set.
The list is endless.. budget seems to play a big part.. now we have all this cheap chinesium stuff to add confusion to the mix.. nothing like a box full of modified spanners n sockets to get the job done..😂😂
Well thats a warm and fuzzy feeling, I looked at the tools and had all but the clamp pliers, and did buy a set of those hose clamp pliers) Yeah, I'm old my impact wrench is pneumatic but I rarely use it that much and its good enough for my purposes. Pretty good at DC electrics and just amazing how many good mechanics apparently have no idea of what to do with wires. I do like the plug in relays but I can get buy with my switch with alligator clips (and a little green LED bulb that says its got juice).
As a DIY guy, I bought an XTool D7 scan tool, and so far, I'm pretty happy with it. It's a bit cheaper than the similar Autel model, and it paid for itself in the first week when I used it to program new immobilizers and fobs for my wife's Subaru.
I have one I just bought, and I was a bit disappointed in playing around with it and inadvertently resetting the mileage on my car. I had set it to miles, and it converted it into a pseudo kilometer conversion (it was NOT km's that's for sure). I just felt that this was something stupid that should have never left the shop without this kind of testing.
While I like this but the jump pack, as a tow truck driver I run the noco boost pro gb150, can't beat it lithium batteries so can be below 0 no problem we recently had -60 weather having 3000amps really helped
My top ten tools are 10 spare 10mm sockets. I spent 32 years as a mechanic using air tools that caused hearing loss from the air tools and an air compressor running all day. Finished just before cordless was used, but have all Makita cordless workshop tools now.
Always buy an extra 10mm socket. They really do go missing. Ive lost 2 in the last 5 years. No idea where they went But seriously, this was a great video. Super interesting! I love that you are enjoying the success and fruits of your labor. Makes us all very happy
I have worked in electronics most of my life, and consider myself a shadetree mechanic who does most of my own automotive work. I purchased my DVM from O'Reilliy's and it has most of the Fluke features, but it also has the ability to measure RPM and Dwell. Useful when setting up points when needed.
I believe I have heard him say that he, or no one else in the shop knows how to diagnose and work on the old ignition systems, and they have no desire to learn. That they basically do not like to work on old cars. (except the ones they like apparently)
I like the electric tools a lot. I’m 81 and only work on my 2000 Echo and 97 Corolla which doesn’t even have an OEBD port just a port under the hood where jump pins and read blink codes. The jumper wire costs less than a penny. I do have a Fluke 117 about the same as you 115, but mostly just sockets and hand tools that go back to the 60s. Interesting what you have to have in a modern shop.
Love the new Milwaukee tools. Total game changer. The only air tools I care to use or find the need for anymore in the automotive sector are air hammers and tire inflators and thats really it.
I bought one of those weird hose clamp pliers months back when I had to replace my previous car's radiator. There were some hose clamps that I could not get to at ALL with regular pliers. $30 at my local auto parts store, and they paid for themselves the first time I used them. They're never leaving my toolbox, especially if I can ever afford to start collecting a few 90s Japanese cars. I'm going to reach for them first, every single time I have to do a spring-type hose clamp, because even the clamps that are right there up at the very top can be made short work of by those things. They saved me so much time and sanity the first time I used them.
Geiger counters are actually very useful for inspecting Chinese parts, because you don’t know where they got the metal to build them. This is a thing, particularly with machine tools in the past. It’s gotten better now that they have radiation detectors at some of the major shipping ports (but I don’t know how effective those would be for smaller items and random contamination.)
I agree with you on the battery electric impact tools, but I still use air for an impact hammer or chisel. The hose clamp compression tool is new to me, seems like a good idea. The angle grinder (and Dremel for finer work) changed everything when it comes to cutting. The last time I used my oxyacetylene torch for cutting was to burn off a trailer hitch ball that was seized beyond any hope of normal removal. I still use my torch for freeing up seized items from time to time. Multimeter - check. A temperature probe for the multimeter is also helpful, especially for hot bearings. I also have a DC amps clamp meter - very useful. Stethoscopes - check. Power probe - check. Relay manual switch - check. Easy to make your own from an old relay and a mini toggle switch and a LED to indicate if the relay coil is powered. Jump box - check - now done with lithium ion batteries very light weight. Smoke machine - don’t have one yet. Scan tool - check. The other tool I find very useful is a digital battery tester as you can measure the internal resistance of the battery - that is the big tell all on battery state of health.
Can I ask why you still use air for impact tools? I personally like that they can be lighter tools since they don't have a DC motor or battery, but managing the air hose is a bit of a hassle.
@@josephsager9425 I use a battery powered tools for 1/2" of 3/8" drive applications. I much prefer them as they are very portable and easy to use away from the workshop. And yes, that air hose can be annoying at times. I am still using manual tools for 3/4" drive stuff.I haven't come across a battery powered impact hammer or chisel yet, so I use air to power them.
One tool that I'm liking now is my thermal camera. Useful for household purposes, but seeing a hot circuit draining your battery, or cold spots near the exhaust suggesting a dead cylinder firing is nice.
As a mechanic in the past, I had all air tools and to this day I still use them. Now as the maintenance manager for a door company, I’ve been moving more to battery tools. Why? While we have compressed air from a couple 20HP rotary air compressors. Having a place to connect to air to use is limited and having to drag air hoses suck. Especially if I’m working in a large freezer. It moving from one room to the next. Besides I’m not paying for these tools, let alone the batteries. If I’m working on cars professionally, I would still use air. You don’t have to worry about batteries being charged let alone going bad. There air air hoses all over. The tools are generally less bulky. At home I have an air compressor and air fitting and a couple roll up hoses, one that will reach across the street, then easily roll back up. So I’m using air tools at home. Build my new shed using air nailers and staplers and other air tools. I think there is a place for both types.
I am stocking up on Milwaukee tools currently. I'd say the 3/8" Right Angle Impact, 1/2" stubby impact, and 3/8" impact ratchet are my most used. As well i bought a diag tool, an Xtool D8. Does everything I currently need it to for cars, will be upgrading to a D9HD soon. Will definitely look at your amazon list and keep stocking up. Thanks for the recommendations on must haves.
I do like battery tools, but in the home shop I like air and plug in stuff, most of the time I don't need the convenience of a cordless tool and the reliability and power of corded stuff when I only use it a few times a month makes it easy to justify rolling out a cord or hose when you do need it. Glad your Fluke meter landed high up there, you can hardly even diagnose a 1940's charging system without a good multimeter, I don't even check my mail without mine.
for a first scan tool, I recommend the otofix D1 or D1 lite. I got a lite for $320 on sale, normally ~$420. The lite is basically just smaller screen and has a slower processor. The non-lite is ~$750. These ARE Autels in function. The interface is AUTEL and you get software updates directly from AUTEL. Even the lite DOES have bi-directional controls (they don’t advertise that on their site but it was recently added in an update). 2 things they lack are TPMS activation and any programming/coding. Basically, get one of these and upgrade to a much more expensive scan tool later if you really need those functions. Oh and they have 3 years free updates instead of the 2 for the AUTELs
Also inductive heater, 2 joint plier, magnetic lifter, mirrors. I like your channel. You give so much information without abusing the attention of your viewers.
I did a cooling system overhaul a few months ago and that spring clamp tool would have been a God send. Definitely buying one. Contorting my wrist that day is probably how I injured it. Thanks!
My MS 906Pro has been a godsend for solving some bizarre problems without setting off a parts MOAB. Regarding the subscription, if you're not looking to get anything newer than you already own, the subscription isn't needed, once it runs out. the tool doesn't "brick" itself after the subscription runs out, you just don't get any more updates.
I love that scan tool so much, I had a used one, and mostly buy 90's and early 2000's car's/ trucks. never bothered updating it cause nothing I touched with it was new enough to need the update.
One tool I've never noticed others use on car work is a headlamp! I'd not leave home without two of them, one to use, and one that's recharging. If I can get my head in there to see anything, I want it bathed in light. You also have two hands free. If it's right above your eyes, you generally avoid shadowing things. I like serious light, like 500-1200 lumens. The older you get, the more you'll appreciate headlamps.
A Super-Capacitor jump pack is a TOTAL game changer! Even if you don't charge it up first, you can STILL jump start a car using the residual energy in the battery itself; GENIUS!!!
Ridiculous thought. You don't even need the residual energy in the vehicle's battery if you have a common jump pack with a suitably sized battery. It is not a game changer at all and you have no idea what "game changer" means. There's nothing genius about spending more money to get the same job done, with more detriments than advantages.
As a courtesy I'll have a memory saver as well to keep all the cars presets as they were when I need to disconnect the battery. Plus some cars (first gen equinox 😡) can go a bit screwy with certain systems and cause more headaches with even a simple battery change. And for a few dollars, get some double-ended alligator clips. You'd be surprised how often you're gonna reach for these when diagnosing some electrical issue.
I have battery but still use air for a big job. Since I deal with really rusted bolts there is nothing better than an oxy-acetylene set. I don't mind cutting some but there are a lot that I don't want to break only to have to drill them out. If you are on a budget you can get a torch set and lease your tanks. I pay a lease fee every 5 years. If I owned the tanks I would have to get them certified every 5 years which is the price of leasing. I might get an induction heater tool which is smaller and no flame.
I have to admit you are correct. Add to that,16" long reach needlenose pliers, baby vise grips, acetylene torch, snap on line tools, 2.5 ' screwdrivers, surface preparation tools.
As a potential customer the most important thing i need is a honest competent tooled up machanic who isnt going to make my problem worse and over charge me for it
For someone just doing cars as a hobby, especially if they just do their own cars, I'd say it is a bit overkill to go for Milwaukee power tools. I have gone for Ryobi and it does the job just as good as Milwaukee, but a lot cheaper. Several other brands are also good, but cheaper.
The Wizard seems like a nice and knowledgeable guy! I live in South Florida and in the 8 years since moving here, I’ve yet to find a single mechanic who won’t charge me a 200% mark up on parts, and $120-$130 per hour for labor. The tool that I really need is a mechanic with respect for my wallet.
The Milwaukee impact was a life saver when I had to torque bolts to 450 on rear sway bars. It didn’t get them all the way but it saved me a lot of work on the 4 foot torque wrench that has 3ft of slop.
I have no idea how “regular” people get along without an air compressor. With 5 cars (two young adult children) someone’s tire is always a bit low. I need to get that jump pack with an air compressor. But I agree that battery powered tools have come a long way. I’ve worn out my Makita tools and will probably replace them with Milwaukee. That brand seems to have floated to the top. Thanks for some ideas that solve problems.
My number 11, a two post or four post lift. Yes, its a very special piece of equipment but if you have the overhead space and the floor loading capability its worth every penny. I'm in my 70's and full of arthritis so getting down on a creeper under a car isn't going to happen for me. I still seek the help of a professional occasionally but I'm able to maintain my vehicles for 90% of our maintenance needs. My lift was my retirement gift to myself eight years ago.
The spring clamp pliers in my opinion is one of the GREATEST tools! If you mess with Toyota and Lexus stuff alot like I was at a time, those will save you so much frustration.
1:16 I work in a potash refinery. It’s very similar to a salt mine. We use Milwaukee fuel impacts. They really impress me with the power and durability.
I just bought a spark light bulb tester, a 4 dollar tool to keep on my motorcycle, when the bike doesn't crank, which cuts in half to either a fuel or an electrical problem. If there spark, it's a fuel problem... if there's no spark, it's an electrical problem. Yes you can do it with a socket wrench and getting yourself tickled, but this is faster.
Funny you showed stuff like the Manhattan grinder tool (never used one on a car or motorcycle, used for all other jobs) and not a single dynamoetric wrench, which is absolutely necessary for stuff like head bolts or for everyone that is at the beginning and (for sure) tends to over-torque the bolts where it's unnecessary and even problematic. A 2-20Nm, 12-60Nm and a 50-200Nm are a must to have for anyone seriously working on engines, cars and motorcycles. Also an impact screwdriver: relatively cheap, but absolutely needed when you've to deal with overtorqued screws.
I've learned to fix so many things via TH-cam videos,but it mostly started when my friend lent me his Milwaukee v18 fuel impact driver. Now I have my own that I got as a gift, a different brand which works good but it's not the Milwaukee that's for sure,lol
Be advised mobile mechanics. Do not store a smoke machine in your car. If you use it once, take it back in the house at the end of the day. The smell will permeate throughout your interior its almost suffocating and doesnt go away for several days unless you leave your windows down for an extended period. I learned the hard way.
Great list. I'd never even heard of that relay tester before. I have a battery impact wrench, which is godsend in my little hobbyist workshop. But, if I had the space, and was using it regularly, I would probably still buy a compressor. Because there are so many tools and other equipment that can be run when you have air; different size impact wrenches, sanders, bead blasting cabinet, CV boot spreader, etc.
A TORCH!!!!! Unless everything you work on is relatively new or never driving in a northern winter. A ball-pin hammer? Adjustable hand wrench? Hand jack? I don’t know how much work you could get done with that selection of tools you advised. Seems to me the only work you could do would be taking off a lugnut and diagnose electric failures and maybe fix a few of those diagnosis’.
The power probe supplies 12V, and needs a 12V battery to do it. So, I use a battery with a handle, and two wires. to test components around the car. Don't need a $125 extension cable... Also, the relay with the switch can be replaced by a simple jumper wire. Around here, wire is free.
Very good choice of tools. I used to work on my own cars back before they went crazy with onboard computers, and I didn't want to spend the money on a scan tool, so I stopped doing most of my own work. But I have some of those tools you listed. The Multimeter I have is an old OTC 100 that still works great, but with that tool, I don't need a power probe because it's built into the OTC100 I just hook up the proper leads. OTC no longer makes the same 100 model I have, they do make a 100 model but from what I can tell it's not nearly as involved as mine is, I bought mine over 20 years ago. So I still use that OTC 100 to diagnose some problems, but it can't do codes obviously.
Man, no wonder you have a million subs. I was a tech for a few years back in the late 90's early 2000's and I think this video would have made me an extra 5-10 hours a week.
My 1/4in ratchet, socket, extension set lol. A lot of mercedes engines and bolts are all aluminum now and stuff like transmission pan bolts, oil cooler bolts are super easy to snap or overtighten. I also love my milwaukee fuel 3/8in sidewinder, cuts my job times in half.
FYI, the hose clamp pliers are showing out of stock using your direct link... Might want to provide a new one for a certain that's in stock. Great stuff, thank you!!!
I'm a shade tree mechanic, in my experience the jump battery, multi meter, grinder wheel are very useful tools to have. I would add to the list, magnet/retriever tools, not expensive but very handy when you drop a bolt or nut in a in accessible spot. Headache saver for sure.
And the magnetic little trays / bowls for parts. I have a few stuck on my toolbox until needed
Magnet retriever for getting those spark plugs out of those deep wells.
That hose clamp plier is the most usefuls after the impact gun lol
I agree I have a flexible push button claw grabber with a magnet and it saves me headaches all the time. I also have some rare earth magnets I can electrical tape to a dowel or long rod and pick up very heavy things just doesn't work well in close quarters because it likes to stick to anything it gets close to.
Omg definitely magnets. Definitely.
Great list. Here's some small tools that go a long way:
-telescoping magnet
-pick tools
-ratcheting wrenches
-mechanic telescoping mirror
-small grab tool
-c clamp
-vice grips
I remember buying Pick Tools at Harbor Freight thinking why am I buying these? Well, they have been so useful especially when changing Oil Filter Housing Gaskets on my Toyota Avalon!
Magnet will save a lot of headaches and cursing. Flexible ones as well
What do you use the c clamp for? I don’t think I have any or ever wanted to buy one except for woodworking
Telescoping magnet has saved my behind several times.
@@amg863 you can use a C-clamp to compress brake caliper pistons
Must have for me:
-10mm wrench
-10mm socket
-10mm racket wrench
-10mm crows foot
-Impact (that accepts a 10mm socket)
-10mm impact swivel
-1/2 right angle impact (that accepts a 10mm)
-10mm Irwin extractor
-10mm tap and die
Sig p220 in 10mm
My wife was in an auto maintenance program in community college for a time. She had a Fluke multimeter; they were and still are the gold standard.
As we used to say in the electronics industry, "If it works, it's a Fluke!"
There is nothing special about a Fluke meter. The ONLY reason the government, including the military, uses them, is because they literally based all their specifications on them, and Fluke has stuck to those specifications, because they are making a fortune from it. My favorite multimeter is a 30+ year old AW Sperry clamp on type.
@@geraldscott4302 Fluke may not be special, but it works. Period.
I got my Fluke Meter I got while in automotive trade school back in 87/88 and it still works great today!!!
Actually a major reason for the Government's use of Fluke is because Fluke will calibrate it for you, which is often a Government Requirement. Granted on most work I use one of my many $3 Harbor Freight Multi-Meters. But when it is important, I use my Fluke@@geraldscott4302
As an older guy the battery powered tools are a Godsend!
I recently changed the clutch on my Mk1 VW Jetta. My 20V mini-impact gun made bolting and unbolting the transaxle a breeze. It would've been a nightmare with a ratchet wrench. Even air tools are a pain, what with the hose and the air-blasts and the noise and wait times of the compressor.
I couldn't imagine doing any work without my battery powered impact tools. The days of hand-ratcheting nuts and bolts are over!
And no damn airhose.
i have all the air tools/compressor...never a dead or dying battery LOL
I haven't found a bolt that a long enough breaker bar won't loosen. Just what are the torque specs on those bolts? I can put 100 lb.ft. of torque on a bolt with a 12" ratchet.
Just remember to wear hearing protection when you can. All of those will trash your hearing over time…….
I managed to snag the kobalt right angle impact when it was @ $99. It's great, and man an compact-head 3/8 extended electric ratchet is truly one of the best tools ever.
#1 must have tool: 10mm wrench!
And a ratchet at least
Multiple**
There is a Harbor Freight 10mm set that has 9 pieces. 3 for 1/4, 3 3/8 and 3 1/2 sockets. Under $15
Six point wrench/socket is a instant win
@@stoundingresultsthank you for giving me motivation to put myself into a money pit at the local HF. Gonna be happy person sad wallet 😂
Scanner - For advanced DIY, Launch has the Elite x431 that is loaded by auto brand. It has the full 2 way communications and module support in including test activation. You can add other brands if needed, so for an example, I have VW + Mercedes library for the cars we have at home. No yearly subscription. Having a limited library saves a lot of money yet keeping performance.
Thanks, I've been looking for something just like that in the market.
My favorite tool is the 120 volt induction coil for removing seized nuts and bolts.
The more modern version of a torch I support this as it works better at targeting the nut and or bolt. One thing is the torch can make steel liquid if needed
Another great video, thank you. As an old retired auto tech of 42 years, 32 of them as a shop owner with ASE certifications and employees I would like to add what I think is the most important tool. That’s the one between your ears. A good basic understanding of physics, basic electronics, the application of logic and how to access information is very important. You can have a wonderfully skilled set of hands but without knowledge and understanding they won’t do you any good. Also if you’re planning to open a shop add business classes to the mix. And just a last comment. Electric power tools are getting better and better and very handy. But when it comes to tightening something, always recheck it with a hand tool to make sure. I’ve seen to many oops come back. 😊😊
Torque wrench w/clicker = NO Comebacks!
I agree. I've been a tech for 15 years now and I've seen guys with all the tools and still can't fix cars properly
One of the things I have learned from you videos is to find a trustworthy mechanic and to follow his advice. I have found a good one by word of mouth and am quite happy. I am older and arthritic so I can no longer do my own work. I would rather spend money on my 1988 vehicle than purchase a new one that costs more than my first 3 homes combined. I am lucky to live in Arizona where I do not have to worry about rust.
I order a lot of used parts through ebay & I look for sellers coming out of Arizona because the parts are always completely rust free.
I've been a tech since 1997. I like watching the Wizard, he's straight to the point and no bullshit. Good job!
Man, I don't know what I would replace with it but I feel a serpentine belt tensioner tool should have been on the list. Especially with how tight many cars are to get to the tensioner.
Oh, that's easy! Just take the end of a breaker bar after you snapped it off trying to loosen a CV Axle-nut and just weld it to a 1/8th inch thick strip of flat steel; problem solved!
CV axle nuts, head bolts, exhaust nuts, either way: A snapped off breaker bar is a snapped off breaker bar; just weld it to something else.
@@Rekuzangood tip
Tools are a real problem. The more you have, the more you need. I found that staying out of tool shops helpful. Cordless, high torque drivers are a blessing. You need a couple of those. Thanks for an absolutely fantastic post.
Off to the shop to buy a new compressor.
Those spring clamp pliers are one of the best investments I've ever made in terms of saving time and headaches, and scraped up knuckles and bent radiator fins
I still have all my grandfathers professional grade air tools & the huge giant compressor. All still works flawlessly.
I use air tools constantly also, once you have a decent compressor the air tools are getting better for the price aircat is quite a good one.
I still prefer air tools I don't have to worry about charging batteries.
I purchased my compressor and the beginning of my air tools about 20 years ago. I like the battery tools, and have one long reach rachet, but I can't justify the cost for the amount of use they would get.
@@aldoncoplus air tools have a better power to weight ratio than most battery tools. I don’t like heavy cordless impact wrenches.
I'm still using my 1990 Mac impact gun . I rebuilt it once and it works flawlessly.
I just discovered the power probe last year after hearing the wizard talk about it before. It made a troubleshooting job so easy it was unbelievable. Saved me many hours of time not needing a helper. I got it on amazon in one day for way less than even harbor freights price. I forgot to use the wizards link though. Sorry.
If there was ever a time saved per dollar spent metric, the hose clamp tool wins hands down. That thing is awesome.
great tool,I wasted too much time before I got that
You don't understand until you use one. I couldn't believe I ever went without one after using it. It's a tool straight from the mechanic gods.
Second place has to go to the angle grinder. I used to absolutely hate working on exhaust systems until my dad bought one… what a timesaver! You aren’t going to reuse the hardware, pipes, or mufflers, so just cut it all off and get it done so you can connect the new exhaust!
@@JBM425 good tool. I put a course flap sander on mine and sharpen lawn mower blades in a jiffy.
I almost didn't watch this! What could I possibly still learn after 50 years turning a wrench? Well I picked up two new items for my toolbox!! I got the hose clamp tool and the relay jumper. Super useful! Thank you!
A piece of brake line in a rubber hose is one of the best stethoscopes I've used, does both jobs is free and flexible, multi purpose, blow gun extension
So as a "boomer" who has only used air tools, it doesnt seem like a "long, long time ago". I still use them . Battery powered are good for in the mobile toolbox. And I have an impact wrench and angle grinder in that box. But Im 100% air power in my shop. More torque than electric too. And if you do any body work, its a must have. My tire changer doesnt run on batteries either., so theres that too.
Yeah, those huge $5,000-$6,000 3 phase air compressors are best used for large scale tire installation (think multiple bays of cars or trucks at 4-6 tires per vehicle or even more if you’re talking heavy duty trucks) but I myself have a small 20 gallon compressor that meets all of my needs for the home garage.
It was a long long time ago in the sense that you have to consider not today but the year that the decision was made to get the air compressor and tools for it. Continuing to use what you have if it works for you, is just common sense.
You really don't need more torque than modern battery powered impact wrenches can provide. Granted some may have a h arder time fitting in tight spaces.
Agree about the angle grinder except a caution should be given to those unfamiliar. A guard should be included as the cut off wheel will explode and send pieces everywhere.
I had a guard on mine and a disk exploded. Screwed up my finger a little bit but those flying pieces of disk would have hit me right in the face without the guard on.
Yes, absolutely, thank you! Personally I never use the guard anymore and always take it off when I get a new grinder, but I have 25 yrs (+) of experience under my belt so I don't really need one and know how to deal with it, but if yer new, absolutely, yes! Also, I would like to note that with that experience comes enough wisdom to still use a face shield every time!
pieces? Naw, scars on your hand!
That's why they call it a death wheel
Always use a face shield with these, just in case.
Milwaukee Fuel battery powered tools are great but the best I've used are Hilti. They do cost an arm and a leg but the batteries charge up faster than any other brand, their capabilities are unmatched and although I've never experienced one breaking but if they do Hilti replace them with new no questions asked unless it's a case of perfectly obvious abuse like dropping the tool into sea water and leaving it there for some time. Others we used that worked fine were Bosch blue, Makita, AEG and Hitachi.
Actually, that geiger counter could be very useful, for Japanese imports. Seriously there have been a number of instances around the world where Japanese import cars have turned out to be highly radioactive. Some unscroupulous guys had been pulling cars, mainly exotics and rarities, out of the Fukushima prefecture and re registering to another prefecture, then exporting them.
My uncle worked with a recycling company for a few years and they had an incident where scrap metal from Russia had a high level radiation source embedded in the scrap. He got heavily exposed before it was detected and a decade later he developed multiple cancers. The health authorities seriously messed up and he was informed only 5 years after the first detection. Against all odds he survived the treatments and lives a full life today.
Then they must also be forging the Japanese government-issued radiation-free export document that all car exports get
Just because you parked your car in Fukushima doesn’t mean it’s going to be a significant source of radiation contamination, assuming you washed it (dust and all that.) Unless it was parked next door to one of the damaged containment buildings. It doesn’t work like that.
So much concern about the release of water from that incident. The Pacific Ocean is a very big drink of water, heh.
Still, having a Geiger counter is _never_ a bad idea.
@@declanfarberUnfortunately, you would appear to have a hollywood movie grasp of nuclear radiation. It's not as simple as just washing radioactive dust off, that's why there are a half a dozen or so Bradley fighting vehicles shipped back and buried in Arizona, they were damaged in friendly fire incidents involving DU ammunition in Iraq. When it is too difficut and expensive to successfully decontaminate and repair a multi million dollar military vehicle I don't think anyone is going to decontaminate a Datsun, especially considering the contaminating isotopes at Fukushima were orders of magnitude more dangerous than those produced by DU - we're talking cesium and cobalt. As for 'Unless it was parked next door to one of the damaged containment buildings.' ...the contamination was widespread, to this day an 800 sqkm exclusion zone exists with only limited access.
Sooo, everything old is NUKE again? 🥸
Even as a driveway weekend warrior the Milwaukee 1/2" impact is the best tool I've ever purchased.
I have a 3/8” Milwaukie that is as strong as the 1/2” inch. Love it.
@@nels9382 do you use that for lug nuts?
One tool i keep in my tool box is a pair or several pairs of locking hemostats (like used in surgery)..one pair i have magnetized so if i drop a bolt or nut down somewhere i can easily retrive it...that thing has saved my bacon more than once
Love those. Have straight jaw and bent jaw ones myself. Inexpensive at local farm and ranch store in vet section.
You know car wizard, this is exactly the content that makes me appreciate you, you want to share your knowledge with others, i respect that a lot, keep up the good work man
Been using the Milwaukee 12 volt tools for twenty years now. Does just about everything but the last turn. Reliable and plenty strong for most all of my woodworking. Judging from that their 18 volt stuff is doubtless the best.
Their tools are 20 volt now though!
I've have been a mechanic for years specializing in electrical repairs. Long before they came out with relay testers I took 2 old relays and on one I put a push button on it to manual activate the circuit. On the other I put 2 LEDs on it. One red and one green to test to light up if it has power and activated
I also made a similar tool. As well as a tool for testing used relays with & without a simulated load...
My favorite tool currently is my electric ratchet. I’m 6 years into building my own cars & it’s always cool when I find a new tool I can use on a regular
An alternative to the power probe is the TOPDON version that also has an oscilloscope. That scope function is brilliant for chasing intermittent signal drops in ignition modules and injectors when you can see what's happening. It was my best tool purchase last year.
10 essential tools plus the pile of odds and ends that’s been accumulating the last 20 years thinking this bolt, screw, or part will come in handy one day 😅
It will come in handy, but only if you threw it away, a day before you need it.
@@altergreenhornWelcome to my world 😅
@@altergreenhorn
My 'I might need this in the next 3 decades' garage next on Hoarders. 😅
@JeffMcMenamin1027 my problem exactly.
One thing I would recommend for your shop since you have a fairly large shop is picknup a used walk behind floor scrubber like they use at Costco, Grocery stores. You can clean the whole shop in half hour and better than just sweeping or mopping the floor will do. We have two Tennant scrubbers at our shop and we work on heavy equipment that bring in lots of dirt.
I used to deliver parts to shops for a national auto parts store chain. One shop, specializing in diesels, had a floor machine and they used it frequently. That was an amazing shop to walk into. It almost looked like the waxed the floor, and maybe they did.
Always have an OBD2 scan tool in your car! They are so inexpensive to buy! You’ll be glad you did!
what kind of cars do you drive?
If OBD2 is all you care about, just get one of those $20 dongles that bluetooth or wifi links to your phone, then torque or whichever other app you find most useful for your make of vehicle.
@@gvxclassicsAny vehicles made effective 1996-current use OBD2 ports.
@@boogitybear2283 duh
@boogitybear2283 pretty sure he already knew that .
As a DIY, I can confirm, that second clamp tool, LIFE SAVING
Every pro shop needs a credit card processor equipped with a Tyler Hoover.
The Wizard is like the US version of James May in his explanation of things. I find it very soothing and comforting.
I really like my MK808ts, it's done everything I need so far with my BMW's. I purchased the BT506 battery diagnostic add on tool that works with it, haven't tried anything with TPMS programming. Before the subscription expired in 2023 I downloaded as many popular models into the device as I could so at least diagnose everything up to that point
Somehow this reminds me of the Mastercard commercial with MacGyver fixing a 18 Wheeler with a pair of tweezers, a Swiss army knife and a roll of ducttape
Love the content Wizard! I am 43 and 20 year tech now I am solo in the sticks and still run all on air I can't justify it as all my air stuff works great. I do have some electric but prefer air. Great video!
air has never let me down! batteries sure have many a time.
Once they all start to fail a bit, and arent as strong as you thought they are, youll notice. My grandpa swore by his air for so long, till one day He goes to put a wheel on, and hammers the shit out of it. I came by and loosened that lug by hand... Just two fingers... He said "WT FLYING FUCK" and thrw it in the trash and subsequently bought battery tools. They work when they work but when they dont.... its hard ot notice without double checking stuff. NTB / Tire king has been sued for wheels falling off due to people using air tools and never checking with a torque wrench... because they overly trusted that air tool...
Stupid question, but if the cables/hoses are THAT short, how do you plan to get the air chuck to the tires when it's connected to the battery?
I actually have a nice handheld cordless air compressor for remote tires it works great. I also have 200 ft of Air hose @@Rekuzan
I don't think he ever answers.
Geiger Counter a must have 😅
Dave, thanks to your recommending Mountain reversible ratcheting wrenches with flexible heads in an earlier video, I was able to loosen the bolt from hell: a 15 mm fastener behind the back of the intake manifold on my 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis. It's been called the hardest part of the job of replacing the intake manifold on that car. What a wonderful feeling when I got the head around that sucker and it cracked loose. The sound of success. Thanks for the tip!
In Germany there is a very well-known car channel called “Die Autodoktoren” and they use the smoke machine at least in every other episode.
Smoke escaping from the wiring harness indicates Lucas electrics.
another bonus #11 if you have the space
a lift!
I hate getting under my car, so much easier to pick it up
Just got my mid-rise installed (which involved unboxing, connecting lines filling with hydraulic fluid, and plugging in. No concrete work, unpack and work. It's a back saver. I can already tell. 😅
If you can't fit a lift, don't have the space, do mostly restoration work or don't own the building, get a pair of identical professional grade trolley jacks. That way you can quickly and safely lift one end of the car at a time...
i couldnt afford a lift, I dug a hole in the yard like the bays at quick lube places.
I’ve spent 30 years wrenching. I like all the tools you mentioned, but you forgot the most important and valuable tool of all. The pocket screwdriver. They come in handy for so many things that don’t involve turning a screw. When we were slow at the Saturn dealer after the 9/11 attacks we put together a list of uses for a pocket screwdriver and came up with almost 40 uses for it.
I appreciate how generous you are with your time and knowledge. Nothing replaces knowledge and experience.
Been working on our cars for over 30 yrs. I still enjoy using air tools. (They are Powerful, inexpensive, very dependable, low maintenance and takes up less space. I thought of some other tools that might come in handy:
1) Head led light. Nothing like being able to use both hands and shine the light where your looking.
2) Under hood led light. Lights up the entire engine bay when working.
3) Small magnetic led light
4) Welder
5) Plasma cutter
6) Floor creeper for those of us that don't have a lift.
7) Stubby air wrench. Great getting into those small spaces.
8) Hand wrench with an extendable handle, for more torque.
9) Bolt extractor set.
What brand hood LED light do you recommend……I would like to add one??
I have an Eastwood Co. brand. But Harbor Freight has a similar one.
The list is endless.. budget seems to play a big part.. now we have all this cheap chinesium stuff to add confusion to the mix.. nothing like a box full of modified spanners n sockets to get the job done..😂😂
Yes, number 1 is very helpful.
Well thats a warm and fuzzy feeling, I looked at the tools and had all but the clamp pliers, and did buy a set of those hose clamp pliers) Yeah, I'm old my impact wrench is pneumatic but I rarely use it that much and its good enough for my purposes. Pretty good at DC electrics and just amazing how many good mechanics apparently have no idea of what to do with wires. I do like the plug in relays but I can get buy with my switch with alligator clips (and a little green LED bulb that says its got juice).
As a DIY guy, I bought an XTool D7 scan tool, and so far, I'm pretty happy with it. It's a bit cheaper than the similar Autel model, and it paid for itself in the first week when I used it to program new immobilizers and fobs for my wife's Subaru.
I have one I just bought, and I was a bit disappointed in playing around with it and inadvertently resetting the mileage on my car. I had set it to miles, and it converted it into a pseudo kilometer conversion (it was NOT km's that's for sure). I just felt that this was something stupid that should have never left the shop without this kind of testing.
@@jum5238 Weird. I know that feature is controversial for ethical reasons, but I didn't know it doesn't actually work lol
While I like this but the jump pack, as a tow truck driver I run the noco boost pro gb150, can't beat it lithium batteries so can be below 0 no problem we recently had -60 weather having 3000amps really helped
My top ten tools are 10 spare 10mm sockets. I spent 32 years as a mechanic using air tools that caused hearing loss from the air tools and an air compressor running all day. Finished just before cordless was used, but have all Makita cordless workshop tools now.
Always buy an extra 10mm socket. They really do go missing. Ive lost 2 in the last 5 years. No idea where they went
But seriously, this was a great video. Super interesting! I love that you are enjoying the success and fruits of your labor. Makes us all very happy
I have worked in electronics most of my life, and consider myself a shadetree mechanic who does most of my own automotive work. I purchased my DVM from O'Reilliy's and it has most of the Fluke features, but it also has the ability to measure RPM and Dwell. Useful when setting up points when needed.
I believe I have heard him say that he, or no one else in the shop knows how to diagnose and work on the old ignition systems, and they have no desire to learn. That they basically do not like to work on old cars. (except the ones they like apparently)
The first tool I ever bought off a tool truck was my Fluke 88V. 18 years later, I still have it and use it daily. Solid list Car Wizard.
I like the electric tools a lot. I’m 81 and only work on my 2000 Echo and 97 Corolla which doesn’t even have an OEBD port just a port under the hood where jump pins and read blink codes. The jumper wire costs less than a penny. I do have a Fluke 117 about the same as you 115, but mostly just sockets and hand tools that go back to the 60s. Interesting what you have to have in a modern shop.
You do a wonderful job. Your mentor called them rabbit ears because old TVs back in the day had rabbit ear antennas that looked similar.
Agree with every choice! I had the same reaction the first time I saw a fellow tech used those remote hose clamp pliers, instantly had to get my own
Love the new Milwaukee tools. Total game changer.
The only air tools I care to use or find the need for anymore in the automotive sector are air hammers and tire inflators and thats really it.
I bought one of those weird hose clamp pliers months back when I had to replace my previous car's radiator. There were some hose clamps that I could not get to at ALL with regular pliers. $30 at my local auto parts store, and they paid for themselves the first time I used them. They're never leaving my toolbox, especially if I can ever afford to start collecting a few 90s Japanese cars. I'm going to reach for them first, every single time I have to do a spring-type hose clamp, because even the clamps that are right there up at the very top can be made short work of by those things. They saved me so much time and sanity the first time I used them.
Geiger counters are actually very useful for inspecting Chinese parts, because you don’t know where they got the metal to build them. This is a thing, particularly with machine tools in the past. It’s gotten better now that they have radiation detectors at some of the major shipping ports (but I don’t know how effective those would be for smaller items and random contamination.)
Just like trying to weld with chinese steel, what a joke.
I agree with you on the battery electric impact tools, but I still use air for an impact hammer or chisel. The hose clamp compression tool is new to me, seems like a good idea. The angle grinder (and Dremel for finer work) changed everything when it comes to cutting. The last time I used my oxyacetylene torch for cutting was to burn off a trailer hitch ball that was seized beyond any hope of normal removal. I still use my torch for freeing up seized items from time to time. Multimeter - check. A temperature probe for the multimeter is also helpful, especially for hot bearings. I also have a DC amps clamp meter - very useful. Stethoscopes - check. Power probe - check. Relay manual switch - check. Easy to make your own from an old relay and a mini toggle switch and a LED to indicate if the relay coil is powered. Jump box - check - now done with lithium ion batteries very light weight. Smoke machine - don’t have one yet. Scan tool - check. The other tool I find very useful is a digital battery tester as you can measure the internal resistance of the battery - that is the big tell all on battery state of health.
Can I ask why you still use air for impact tools?
I personally like that they can be lighter tools since they don't have a DC motor or battery, but managing the air hose is a bit of a hassle.
@@josephsager9425 I use a battery powered tools for 1/2" of 3/8" drive applications. I much prefer them as they are very portable and easy to use away from the workshop. And yes, that air hose can be annoying at times. I am still using manual tools for 3/4" drive stuff.I haven't come across a battery powered impact hammer or chisel yet, so I use air to power them.
One tool that I'm liking now is my thermal camera. Useful for household purposes, but seeing a hot circuit draining your battery, or cold spots near the exhaust suggesting a dead cylinder firing is nice.
@@josephsager9425 I have a hose reel up above the floor, so not causing many problems.
As a mechanic in the past, I had all air tools and to this day I still use them. Now as the maintenance manager for a door company, I’ve been moving more to battery tools. Why? While we have compressed air from a couple 20HP rotary air compressors. Having a place to connect to air to use is limited and having to drag air hoses suck. Especially if I’m working in a large freezer. It moving from one room to the next. Besides I’m not paying for these tools, let alone the batteries.
If I’m working on cars professionally, I would still use air. You don’t have to worry about batteries being charged let alone going bad. There air air hoses all over. The tools are generally less bulky.
At home I have an air compressor and air fitting and a couple roll up hoses, one that will reach across the street, then easily roll back up. So I’m using air tools at home. Build my new shed using air nailers and staplers and other air tools.
I think there is a place for both types.
I am stocking up on Milwaukee tools currently. I'd say the 3/8" Right Angle Impact, 1/2" stubby impact, and 3/8" impact ratchet are my most used. As well i bought a diag tool, an Xtool D8. Does everything I currently need it to for cars, will be upgrading to a D9HD soon. Will definitely look at your amazon list and keep stocking up. Thanks for the recommendations on must haves.
I do like battery tools, but in the home shop I like air and plug in stuff, most of the time I don't need the convenience of a cordless tool and the reliability and power of corded stuff when I only use it a few times a month makes it easy to justify rolling out a cord or hose when you do need it. Glad your Fluke meter landed high up there, you can hardly even diagnose a 1940's charging system without a good multimeter, I don't even check my mail without mine.
for a first scan tool, I recommend the otofix D1 or D1 lite. I got a lite for $320 on sale, normally ~$420. The lite is basically just smaller screen and has a slower processor. The non-lite is ~$750. These ARE Autels in function. The interface is AUTEL and you get software updates directly from AUTEL. Even the lite DOES have bi-directional controls (they don’t advertise that on their site but it was recently added in an update). 2 things they lack are TPMS activation and any programming/coding.
Basically, get one of these and upgrade to a much more expensive scan tool later if you really need those functions.
Oh and they have 3 years free updates instead of the 2 for the AUTELs
I always look forward to wizard videos. Doesn’t matter the topic. Also very much enjoy Mrs wizards ways. Her videos are very calming and informative.
Also inductive heater, 2 joint plier, magnetic lifter, mirrors. I like your channel. You give so much information without abusing the attention of your viewers.
I did a cooling system overhaul a few months ago and that spring clamp tool would have been a God send. Definitely buying one. Contorting my wrist that day is probably how I injured it. Thanks!
My MS 906Pro has been a godsend for solving some bizarre problems without setting off a parts MOAB.
Regarding the subscription, if you're not looking to get anything newer than you already own, the subscription isn't needed, once it runs out. the tool doesn't "brick" itself after the subscription runs out, you just don't get any more updates.
I love that scan tool so much, I had a used one, and mostly buy 90's and early 2000's car's/ trucks. never bothered updating it cause nothing I touched with it was new enough to need the update.
One tool I've never noticed others use on car work is a headlamp! I'd not leave home without two of them, one to use, and one that's recharging. If I can get my head in there to see anything, I want it bathed in light. You also have two hands free. If it's right above your eyes, you generally avoid shadowing things. I like serious light, like 500-1200 lumens. The older you get, the more you'll appreciate headlamps.
I am a retired mechanic and this is an excellent list of tools. Have every one of them in my toolbox.
Most all of these tools aid in quickly and properly diagnosing your issue. Diagnosing, the most valuable skill of any mechanic.
A Super-Capacitor jump pack is a TOTAL game changer! Even if you don't charge it up first, you can STILL jump start a car using the residual energy in the battery itself; GENIUS!!!
Ridiculous thought. You don't even need the residual energy in the vehicle's battery if you have a common jump pack with a suitably sized battery. It is not a game changer at all and you have no idea what "game changer" means.
There's nothing genius about spending more money to get the same job done, with more detriments than advantages.
As a courtesy I'll have a memory saver as well to keep all the cars presets as they were when I need to disconnect the battery. Plus some cars (first gen equinox 😡) can go a bit screwy with certain systems and cause more headaches with even a simple battery change. And for a few dollars, get some double-ended alligator clips. You'd be surprised how often you're gonna reach for these when diagnosing some electrical issue.
I have battery but still use air for a big job. Since I deal with really rusted bolts there is nothing better than an oxy-acetylene set. I don't mind cutting some but there are a lot that I don't want to break only to have to drill them out. If you are on a budget you can get a torch set and lease your tanks. I pay a lease fee every 5 years. If I owned the tanks I would have to get them certified every 5 years which is the price of leasing. I might get an induction heater tool which is smaller and no flame.
As the old saying goes: “Can’t be tight if it’s a liquid!”
I have to admit you are correct. Add to that,16" long reach needlenose pliers, baby vise grips, acetylene torch, snap on line tools, 2.5 ' screwdrivers, surface preparation tools.
As a potential customer the most important thing i need is a honest competent tooled up machanic who isnt going to make my problem worse and over charge me for it
For someone just doing cars as a hobby, especially if they just do their own cars, I'd say it is a bit overkill to go for Milwaukee power tools. I have gone for Ryobi and it does the job just as good as Milwaukee, but a lot cheaper. Several other brands are also good, but cheaper.
The Wizard seems like a nice and knowledgeable guy!
I live in South Florida and in the 8 years since moving here, I’ve yet to find a single mechanic who won’t charge me a 200% mark up on parts, and $120-$130 per hour for labor.
The tool that I really need is a mechanic with respect for my wallet.
The Milwaukee impact was a life saver when I had to torque bolts to 450 on rear sway bars. It didn’t get them all the way but it saved me a lot of work on the 4 foot torque wrench that has 3ft of slop.
I have no idea how “regular” people get along without an air compressor. With 5 cars (two young adult children) someone’s tire is always a bit low. I need to get that jump pack with an air compressor. But I agree that battery powered tools have come a long way. I’ve worn out my Makita tools and will probably replace them with Milwaukee. That brand seems to have floated to the top. Thanks for some ideas that solve problems.
My number 11, a two post or four post lift. Yes, its a very special piece of equipment but if you have the overhead space and the floor loading capability its worth every penny. I'm in my 70's and full of arthritis so getting down on a creeper under a car isn't going to happen for me. I still seek the help of a professional occasionally but I'm able to maintain my vehicles for 90% of our maintenance needs. My lift was my retirement gift to myself eight years ago.
The spring clamp pliers in my opinion is one of the GREATEST tools! If you mess with Toyota and Lexus stuff alot like I was at a time, those will save you so much frustration.
1:16 I work in a potash refinery. It’s very similar to a salt mine. We use Milwaukee fuel impacts. They really impress me with the power and durability.
I appreciate that his list isn't wrenches and screw drivers. We know those things, but he's listing the things that we wouldn't have thought of.
Thank you! The hardest part of replacing the water pump on my Dodge Cummins is as removing the radiator spring clamps.
I just bought a spark light bulb tester, a 4 dollar tool to keep on my motorcycle, when the bike doesn't crank, which cuts in half to either a fuel or an electrical problem. If there spark, it's a fuel problem... if there's no spark, it's an electrical problem. Yes you can do it with a socket wrench and getting yourself tickled, but this is faster.
I wanna know what was setting off the Geiger counter under that towel!! Oh, and you need a grab bag of about 100 10mm sockets.
Probably a smoke detector.
I heartily agree about the 10mm sockets!
Air never fails!! Fact air tools last longer, and you can't get by with only battery tools. No batter powered air hammer, ext.
Funny you showed stuff like the Manhattan grinder tool (never used one on a car or motorcycle, used for all other jobs) and not a single dynamoetric wrench, which is absolutely necessary for stuff like head bolts or for everyone that is at the beginning and (for sure) tends to over-torque the bolts where it's unnecessary and even problematic. A 2-20Nm, 12-60Nm and a 50-200Nm are a must to have for anyone seriously working on engines, cars and motorcycles. Also an impact screwdriver: relatively cheap, but absolutely needed when you've to deal with overtorqued screws.
I've learned to fix so many things via TH-cam videos,but it mostly started when my friend lent me his Milwaukee v18 fuel impact driver. Now I have my own that I got as a gift, a different brand which works good but it's not the Milwaukee that's for sure,lol
Be advised mobile mechanics. Do not store a smoke machine in your car. If you use it once, take it back in the house at the end of the day. The smell will permeate throughout your interior its almost suffocating and doesnt go away for several days unless you leave your windows down for an extended period. I learned the hard way.
Great list. I'd never even heard of that relay tester before.
I have a battery impact wrench, which is godsend in my little hobbyist workshop. But, if I had the space, and was using it regularly, I would probably still buy a compressor. Because there are so many tools and other equipment that can be run when you have air; different size impact wrenches, sanders, bead blasting cabinet, CV boot spreader, etc.
A TORCH!!!!! Unless everything you work on is relatively new or never driving in a northern winter. A ball-pin hammer? Adjustable hand wrench? Hand jack? I don’t know how much work you could get done with that selection of tools you advised. Seems to me the only work you could do would be taking off a lugnut and diagnose electric failures and maybe fix a few of those diagnosis’.
The power probe supplies 12V, and needs a 12V battery to do it. So, I use a battery with a handle, and two wires. to test components around the car. Don't need a $125 extension cable... Also, the relay with the switch can be replaced by a simple jumper wire. Around here, wire is free.
Very good choice of tools. I used to work on my own cars back before they went crazy with onboard computers, and I didn't want to spend the money on a scan tool, so I stopped doing most of my own work. But I have some of those tools you listed. The Multimeter I have is an old OTC 100 that still works great, but with that tool, I don't need a power probe because it's built into the OTC100 I just hook up the proper leads. OTC no longer makes the same 100 model I have, they do make a 100 model but from what I can tell it's not nearly as involved as mine is, I bought mine over 20 years ago. So I still use that OTC 100 to diagnose some problems, but it can't do codes obviously.
Man, no wonder you have a million subs. I was a tech for a few years back in the late 90's early 2000's and I think this video would have made me an extra 5-10 hours a week.
My 1/4in ratchet, socket, extension set lol. A lot of mercedes engines and bolts are all aluminum now and stuff like transmission pan bolts, oil cooler bolts are super easy to snap or overtighten. I also love my milwaukee fuel 3/8in sidewinder, cuts my job times in half.
FYI, the hose clamp pliers are showing out of stock using your direct link... Might want to provide a new one for a certain that's in stock. Great stuff, thank you!!!
If the power probe isn't obtainable, use that good ol' multimeter. Out of the tools shown here, that is **the** most versatile one of the bunch!
If you have a Harbor Freight near you, they usually have the Power Probe III in stock for $150-$200
WIZARD!! You definitely can't run a shop without a torch, propane/map at the very least.. northeast mechanic here 😊