This is not “crazy”, this is just a normal shop talk with Steve! I love how everything is custom made to meet the situational needs. Finding people that can design/engineer a part and make it right in their garage with their mill & lathe is not common. Keep up the great content!
I only have two and think that is not enough. Yankum Ropes has recently released an eccentric snatch ring that has the center hole offset to one side so it does not rotate. The winch rope just slides on it. They also propose to use it as a double pulley buy slipping a rope through the center hole so one ring acts as two pulleys.... an interesting concept.
Really well done. I like this build, and I think I'm going to steal your idea, although I think I'm going to make an addition to it. What do you think about taking the hydraulic cylinder, and at the top of the cylinder tube, make a plate or pipe fitting that slides over the piston rod, but allows the piston rod to move freely up and down, but holds tight to the cylinder tube. Then have two mounting points on that plate or pipe fitting where you can attach wire rope guy lines, which would then run down to the backside corners of your base plate and attach there as well with a snap link or whatever. Now, you can have a pretty secure and stable jack that will not shift on you, or attach just ONE guy line so the vehicle cannot tip in the opposite direction you want it to go. It can only tip in the direction where the guy line has no tension, and will just become slack as the vehicle moves in the direction you want it to go. The pipe fitting that slides over the top of the cylinder tube, will need to be a snug fit and come down a few inches, so it doesn't tilt and possibly dent the cylinder tube, and also keeps the hole where the piston rod passes through, far enough away so it doesn't damage the surface of the piston rod, and then the seal in the top flange. The weight penalty is small, but the advantages I think would make it worth considering. I hope I explained myself clearly. Anyway, keep up the great work.
I think that any jack design that attempts to use the jack as a lever to control the vehicle is going to need to be very heavy and even then, not work well (bind up the sliding parts). The long cylinder hydraulic jack is made ONLY to provide thrust, not ANY angular support. My pivoting mount foot insures that. Hydraulic cylinders are similarly designed although some are heavier. The jack body is thin and the leverage that would be produced by the jack ram when extended (over 20") would be tremendous. It too is not particularly large. If you wanted to go this way, It would be best to find an over-sized hydraulic cylinder and use a separate pump. I think the weight of something like this gets out of control very quickly. My truck weighs 13,500lbs so anything that seeks to control its motion, is going to need to be VERY beefy. I can't afford the weight so I made sure it was only lifting.
I was going to carry around a port a power. It was just to heavy. Think it would be extremely handy. I did build an screw in anchor out of a tent spike for hold solar panels when it's windy but will make stronger out of some small dia. Pipe that I can impact into the ground and use for pulling myself out. Something else to look at is in the 70s and 80 there was a screw jack. Merlin garage just did a video. It has a longer stroke than a bottle jack. Look at some videos of people strapping a board on a tire through the wheel for getting unstuck. 32 years in manufacturing/welding. Honestly I'd stay away from aluminum seen to many failures. Believe aluminum needs to be 3 to 5 times the mass of steel to be equal the strength of steel
I thought about a porta-power pump with a larger/longer hydraulic cylinder but the cost was pretty high and the weight is also a lot. I settled on the 8T long stroke jack (really only intended to lift and engine hoist boom) which has about the right capacity and size but it is still very heavy. They also make a 3T version which I decided against. Like you, I believe use of aluminum in any of my jack design is ill advised. The one concession was the tip of the jack, because it was under compressive load. Other than that, everything is steel. I mention the possibility of making a ground anchor with longer 'spades' of ~6" long 4" x 1/4" angle on the jack base but I see this as only useful for anchoring the truck as a winch platform (not even sure that is likely a need), not as an anchor that I could use to pull myself out (likely more useful). While the prospect of making a winch anchor is enticing, I don't have the payload to add more weight for something of likely small utility. I searched for 'merlin garage' but didn't find anything. I have had some poor experiences using screw jacks and replaced them with hydraulic (both personally and professionally) so am pretty happy with my hydraulic solution.
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This is not “crazy”, this is just a normal shop talk with Steve! I love how everything is custom made to meet the situational needs. Finding people that can design/engineer a part and make it right in their garage with their mill & lathe is not common. Keep up the great content!
Thanks!
Snatch rings really are fantastic, endlessly useful.
I only have two and think that is not enough. Yankum Ropes has recently released an eccentric snatch ring that has the center hole offset to one side so it does not rotate. The winch rope just slides on it. They also propose to use it as a double pulley buy slipping a rope through the center hole so one ring acts as two pulleys.... an interesting concept.
Don’t think it’s crazy. I think it absolutely fabulous. Well done great ingenuity!
Thank you very much!
Really well done. I like this build, and I think I'm going to steal your idea, although I think I'm going to make an addition to it.
What do you think about taking the hydraulic cylinder, and at the top of the cylinder tube, make a plate or pipe fitting that slides over the piston rod, but allows the piston rod to move freely up and down, but holds tight to the cylinder tube.
Then have two mounting points on that plate or pipe fitting where you can attach wire rope guy lines, which would then run down to the backside corners of your base plate and attach there as well with a snap link or whatever.
Now, you can have a pretty secure and stable jack that will not shift on you, or attach just ONE guy line so the vehicle cannot tip in the opposite direction you want it to go. It can only tip in the direction where the guy line has no tension, and will just become slack as the vehicle moves in the direction you want it to go.
The pipe fitting that slides over the top of the cylinder tube, will need to be a snug fit and come down a few inches, so it doesn't tilt and possibly dent the cylinder tube, and also keeps the hole where the piston rod passes through, far enough away so it doesn't damage the surface of the piston rod, and then the seal in the top flange.
The weight penalty is small, but the advantages I think would make it worth considering. I hope I explained myself clearly. Anyway, keep up the great work.
I think that any jack design that attempts to use the jack as a lever to control the vehicle is going to need to be very heavy and even then, not work well (bind up the sliding parts). The long cylinder hydraulic jack is made ONLY to provide thrust, not ANY angular support. My pivoting mount foot insures that. Hydraulic cylinders are similarly designed although some are heavier. The jack body is thin and the leverage that would be produced by the jack ram when extended (over 20") would be tremendous. It too is not particularly large. If you wanted to go this way, It would be best to find an over-sized hydraulic cylinder and use a separate pump. I think the weight of something like this gets out of control very quickly. My truck weighs 13,500lbs so anything that seeks to control its motion, is going to need to be VERY beefy. I can't afford the weight so I made sure it was only lifting.
I was going to carry around a port a power. It was just to heavy. Think it would be extremely handy. I did build an screw in anchor out of a tent spike for hold solar panels when it's windy but will make stronger out of some small dia. Pipe that I can impact into the ground and use for pulling myself out. Something else to look at is in the 70s and 80 there was a screw jack. Merlin garage just did a video. It has a longer stroke than a bottle jack. Look at some videos of people strapping a board on a tire through the wheel for getting unstuck. 32 years in manufacturing/welding. Honestly I'd stay away from aluminum seen to many failures. Believe aluminum needs to be 3 to 5 times the mass of steel to be equal the strength of steel
I thought about a porta-power pump with a larger/longer hydraulic cylinder but the cost was pretty high and the weight is also a lot. I settled on the 8T long stroke jack (really only intended to lift and engine hoist boom) which has about the right capacity and size but it is still very heavy. They also make a 3T version which I decided against. Like you, I believe use of aluminum in any of my jack design is ill advised. The one concession was the tip of the jack, because it was under compressive load. Other than that, everything is steel.
I mention the possibility of making a ground anchor with longer 'spades' of ~6" long 4" x 1/4" angle on the jack base but I see this as only useful for anchoring the truck as a winch platform (not even sure that is likely a need), not as an anchor that I could use to pull myself out (likely more useful). While the prospect of making a winch anchor is enticing, I don't have the payload to add more weight for something of likely small utility.
I searched for 'merlin garage' but didn't find anything. I have had some poor experiences using screw jacks and replaced them with hydraulic (both personally and professionally) so am pretty happy with my hydraulic solution.
Looks like your set!
At least till the next time I get stuck and discover I need something different...thanks
Great stuff.
Thanks!