Ronny , as a city slicker who gets out in the bush only every now and then i really appreciate guys like you who take the time to make vids like this. Thanks mate. Tim
as a country guy that has been offroading and using recovery equipment regularly through out my whole life, i also really appreciate these videos! it gives me good way to pass on knowledge to my less experienced friends and i enjoy watching a good lesson when they are this clear, concise and too the point. Thanks for the quality education and entertainment !
I love your videos, so thank you. I've been using these for decades, so I have some lessons learned. -Always be careful your fingers on the upright can't get hit if the handle slips free. -Keep your head out from above the handle. Lean clear over it, or lean back. -Have your escape path clear and planned ahead if things start moving. Run, don't try to stop it. Keep onlookers back and out of your escape path. -Keep a wheel barrow tire and tube (no rim) for sticking between the jack and your rig. Your shirt was doing similar but less effective. You can zip tie the tube to the jack, but usually they either stick there or aren't needed. -Keep WD-40 on hand (I've recently been told water can lube the pins when sand gets in there). -You can move either end of your vehicle sideways (like out of a rut) by jacking the center (or low side) until it teaters, then push the rig where you want it to go. Dumping some rocks or logs in the rut before you push can keep it from sliding right back in. I did a complete 180 once on a trail where I had no room to turn around and was already high centered in ruts and pointing toward worse. It took a long time, but less than walking home. -When you click to the climbing position, you can simply pull up on the handle and it will ratchet up to engage. You don't have to lift first, then click it. -You can and should jack up to get over hard points like rocks or stumps before you winch forward. But, don't leave your jack there and pull or it will wedge the climbing bar into your rig. Jack up, throw rocks or irritating onlookers under the tires, then take the jack out before winching. -You can use ratchet straps to keep the foot from sliding when it wants to. -A base is a must for much terrain, and I prefer my own custom one made of layered plywood with carraige bolts installed to provide pegs for the holes in the foot of my jack so it can't slip off. Then I cross drilled and use pins to hold the jack down to the base, so I can pull my base back up out of the mud or snow after a lift. FYI, I have a 60" hi-lift Xtreme in my F150, and a 60" Hi-lift firefighter recovery tool in my Grand Cherokee (not worth the extra money, but it has a cool foot with lots of options). I love your videos, so keep it up. I especially love how you say what features make you prefer something, so if I don't have that same need I can factor that in. Thanks!
He's right...the down procedure is dangerous. I was changing a tire without gloves in 110 degree weather. My hands slipped off the handler and it flew up and then just repeatedly jacked itself downward fast. The jack shot off the truck too. Luckily I was off to the side. Great video
Ronny - This was a really well made video. I especially liked how you repeated and emphasized the risks of injury when using a farm jack, and actually demonstrated the backlash of the handle if the user lets go halfway through a stroke when lowering the vehicle. Back when I was a kid in the '60's, these were the standard jack that came with cars and pickup trucks (of course, they were only as long as needed to lift the vehicle for a tire change). I remember my Dad warning me about how dangerous they were if used carelessly. The screw-type scissors jack became the standard OEM tire changing jack in light duty trucks and cars here in the U.S. sometime in the early 1970's as I recall.
I am new to jeeps and off roading, Of all the TH-cam channels I watch of the different expeditions and how-to do videos I like your channel the best. I wish I lived in Western Australia so I could go out with you guys.
That was a great lesson. My lifted FJ came with a tiny bottle jack. So, hi-lift jack. Thank You, Ronny, for taking the time to pass on this knowledge on how to use and not use a hi-lift jack. I will get familiar with it in the driveway.
I've lived in a remote area of the Southern California Mojave Desert for 44 years and have been stuck in blow sand probably 100 times. Trying to dig your way out of sand is a wasted effort. The only way for one person alone to get out is to jack up the vehicle and fill in the holes under the wheel or wheels with rocks and sand, or whatever.... I have a high lift jack that I carry in my old 1978 Dodge Colt that I bought new and still tool around the desert with. The high lift jack is dangerous to use, but as you've shown in your really good video blog, it's highly effective and will get you out of almost impossible situations. My old Dodge Colt has steel bumpers and the high lift has been worth it's weight in 20 dollar bills for me. It's gotten me out of sand when the temperature was 118 plus, and being stuck in those conditions is not a guarantee toward continued good health.
Ronnie has learnt and shared a lot of good info over the years, He is one of a few who takes pride in what he teaches, I have been using Hi-Lifts for decades and it is good to see Ronnie teaching the safe tried and true methods of self recovery, WTG Ronnie.
Hi Ronny, I am new to 4 wheeling. I received a 4x4 and I'm planning on using it properly. Thanks to you and a few others I feel more confident about my first expedition over Easter. Thanks mate, your videos are heaps good.
I've got a high lift, or as we call it, a tractor jack. It's probably 60 years old but works perfectly. Also have a manual tire bead breaker stamped Sears and Robuck1933. It works great too. Antiques I got from my father.
Heya there Ronny, love you use of the shirt, but I have a better solution. I have a split pool noodle on my highlift jack to avoid vibration noise while driving, works great as a panel guard aswell.
Whilst there are a number of comments in the video about safety there are other points to note (as some reviewers have commented too). Firstly, one must always chock the wheels before using the jack to prevent the vehicle moving (as the jeep did). Applying the hand brake is no substitute; if the vehicle has a transmission brake, like a Land Rover, it can move as soon as the first wheel comes off the ground; if the hand brake operates on the rear wheels and you are lifting the rear the brakes become ineffective as the weight comes off the wheels. The other major risk is that the shoe of the jack can slip sideways if you are jacking under a bumper or a sill. It's far better to use a jacking point (which may require an adapter) or to weld metal lugs under the bumper or sill (as I have done on my 4x4). These jacks can be lethal and when used in recovery situations conditions are often challenging and the user may be very stressed. Carry the right kit with you (e.g. jack adapter and wheel chocks) and you are more likely to achieve a good outcome. Anyhow it's an informative video particularly for those not used to these jacks.
Dont forget the stock scissor jack will still help for a tire swap. It only works if you can get under the axle. Of course if you have tires oversized it may not help. But considering most vehicles have a spot to store it anyways keep it on hand and dont forget it may be usefull
Ronny, this is a great video. So much I could comment on but I will keep it short. Showing how that handle can slap back was awesome. I have done a few recoveries with these jacks. Respect the jack! The suggestion to try it in your driveway before needing it is spot on. And you didn't mention it but folks never ever get under a rig supported by a farmers jack.
Watched a number of your videos so far and you've got some great stuff. I'm glad you're showing people HOW to use this tool and the dangers that are waiting. I don't use the high lift anymore... it's incredibly dangerous. I have instead custom built a aluminum floor jack with custom bolt on blocks that are waaaay better and safer. It is a bit heavier, but I'll take the weight and keep my fingers.
Grew up around vehicles that had bumper jacks for the factory. My grandparents and dad always threw them out and got a bottle jack as a replacement because they had experiences where the bottom would shoot out
Great demo mate you blokes downunder know your 4x4 stuff, just got a Hi-Lift for my mitsy l200 ill need a couple of straps and D shackles to reach under front recovery lugs and ill feel more confident when using the jack, good point about side step slide!! Regards from boggy Ireland 😂🍀👍
ADVANCEDTECHTIPS On farms they are great for many things from lifting dozer blades to changing traktor tyres. Great for lifting timber and spreading something you're working on. I stopped using them on 4wd's many years ago when I realised they are too inconvenient and sometimes dangerous. It's a farm tool - not a 4wd tool.
Ade Larsen Yeah I agree. Since my comment I have even lifted the corner of a 40ft sea container on the farm with the high lift to level it out. Definitely proved its worth!
Having used mine once. I realize how much more I need to use it. You really have to get out and test your equipment. Even if you do it in a driveway. I used mine to help with a vehicle in my garage. Super nervous and trying an operation I had not practiced. I feel a little better about it now. But I need a lot more practice. I knew the principles and have even fully disassembled mine to do a complete rebuild. But all of that and my video watching did not completely prepare me.
In my 20+ years of working on cars, I’ve learned a few things. One is that the most useful tools are usually the most dangerous. This is no exception. Be careful everyone.
Make sure the pins move freely and squirt with some lube once in awhile, especially if you carry them on the outside of your vehicle. If they dont engage fully bad things can happen. I have had the handle start ratcheting down and you cant get close to grab it. These are extremely dangerous if you are not careful, always double check and be aware of whats going on. Having said that they are one of the handiest tools you can carry for lots of purposes. I have also used them for stretching fence wire etc.
Check out the Rescue42 Jackmate. It's fifty US dollars but adds a lot of possible ways to use your High Lift Jack. Instead of using the pin that came with it I use a longer bolt like comes with the Jack. More secure during travel and storage. Probably overkill during use but better safe than sorry.
Ronny thanks for the tips and Video. I noticed when you were lifting with the straps on the lift you put your padding on the body of the vehicle. You could also put a long wooden block between the jack and the tire, allowing jack to hit the block and push block intothe tire which would prevent all body damage. Cheers Mate
Thanks very much. Most informative. I got one as a Christmas present and although I eventually worked out how to raise the jack, I could not fathom how ti lower it.
The wood is a great idea but i would reccomend framing the base on the wood though. Metal can be very slick on wood. I use 2x4 arround the highlift base over top of the high lift. I would also stand to the side just in case the hi lift slips and kicks out at the base
Thanks for the video. Although not as practical to carry, but any jack can be used with proper wood base. With some rocks properly positioned under the wood base, the shorter Hi-Lift jack can easily do the job. Houses have been lifted with hydraulic and proper wood base.
another trick if all you have is the short farm Jack is to use a ratchet strap to strap your axle to the frame before lifting, this will keep your suspension from extending so you don't have to lift as high. only use very high quality ratchet straps due to the danger of the strap breaking and the the suspension forcing the tire down with a ton of force.
Exactly right , lifting on a smooth side step bar is dangerous even with the brake on it can still slide on sand or mud . I use one of those sling hooks attachment lift mates to lift the wheel when in a bog or place another jack or two under on blocks and let down on that to change a wheel . High-Lift jacks are great but they have a low margin for error . A bull bag is probably safer for lifting both wheels . Your strap is too long , if you shorten it the jacking mechanism stays down lower near the tyre . Less potential for damage .
Few years ago, when I first started learning recovery and self-reliance, I watched a bloke use a hi-lift jack, he put his chest between the handle and the jack, using his weight to push down. Kinda swinging over the handle. There was this sudden noise like a street fight had broken out, about 6 blokes (including me) started yelling at him to stop. We were so loud, if there were a bucks party next door, they would have complained about the noise.
Great videos Ronnie. I have only just started heading out bush and the information you provide on this channel is sure to come in handy! Cheers from SA.
Hello, Ronny, from central Mississippi, USofA. Just found your channel; liked what I saw; and subscribed. Another name for these jacks is "Sheep Herder" jack. Maybe that's from using one to stretch fencing. Anyway, I've had my Sheepherder; Hi-Lift; etc. jack for about 38 years or so. Been in storage for most of that time. Just pulling it out again because I now have a 1981 Jeep CJ-7 thanks to my son-in-law. He wanted my 1976 Chevy half-ton, short wheelbased, stepside pickup ;and I wanted his Jeep. I've had 4x4 trucks before, but this is my first JEEP. We're both in "hog heaven". lololol. Anyway, one small tip. When not actually jacking the handle, leave it in the upright position just in case the lock handle is knocked to the down position. That's extra insurance against getting wacked by the handle as you demonstrated in this video. I really like your rig man, except for one thing......the steering wheel is on the wrong side. lololol. Those stock jacks could be used as buried, deadman winch anchors. Have a Blessed Day, my friend.
You had me about ready to write a long dissertation about the adjustable control (radius) arms. How could you not elaborate more on them? That is by far the best way and easiest way to correct caster. If you're going to all the trouble to weld brackets or install adjustable ball joints (kingpins), a few dollars will buy you some adjustable control arms with heavy-duty Heim-type bearings that flex easier than any others you will try. With this type of arm, you can fine-tune the caster to exact tolerances. All the other methods are by the "guess method" and will frustrate the hell out of you getting the caster where you REALLY want it and you'll end up settling for a lesser quality job. I've done several vehicle lifts and would never consider any of the first options you laid out.
Whenever you jack up a vehicle regardless if the surface is flat or slanted, secure your wheels with your handbrake and put a rock or something in front/behind the wheel to prevent it from moving/rolling. Just my 50c. For the rest great video! Thanks!
It is not a good idea to use handbrake alone with a 4WD which has a driveline handbrake. Some rear wheel handbrake systems with one-piece shoes are also useless when the vehicle rolls in the reverse direction.
Keeping your head away from that handle when lowering is great advice. Many years ago I was cracked in the head from the handle. All my own stupid fault but WOW did it hurt, was seeing stars for a bit and sported a bruise which ensured embarrassment.
You can change a wheel with a farm jack lifting the rim, lift and shove a log under the axle, drop the jack change the wheel, reversr step one to whatever and your done. I have done this Cheers
It really is a good idea to use a bar or something long to knock the selector into "lower" from the side with a bit of distance if you can. I have seen them immediately release and go flying as the vehicle fell. I believe you should still be able to raise the body with the selector in the "lift" position, it should just ratchet up.
I saw a doco years ago with Malcomb Douglass using a Kanga jack, he jacked up the front and pushed it sideways to get the wheels out of a rut in doing so he nearly lost his legs as it flicked out. Funniest thing I've seen, he wasn't the sharpest tool in the shed.
Another use is to use the instability of the jack get a high centered vehicle free. especially if you have something crosswise under an axle, such as a log. Jack up the vehicle from the bumper on the OPPOSITE end you wish to go. From the front bumper if you want to go backward, rear bumper to to forward. Jack up the Jeep until it frees from the log or what ever the vehicle is stuck on and push hard. The Jeep will fall off the jack, hopefully far enough to be freed from the object its stuck on. WATCH YOUR TOES of the falling jack. if you have a winch use that, but this technique will work in a pinch. :disclaimer, this will take paint off of the bumper and possibly cause other damage if your rig is not up to the task.
Ronny, you planning on doing a winching with a hilift video? There are a few but none that I really like. Obviously you wouldn't need to do this very often but I'd sure appreciate it.
Another way to use this type of jack, Although I'm not recommending it because it's dangerous. But I have done it myself many times. If you are in the mud and stuck in deep ruts and have tried everything else, you can remove the hitch from the receiver, slide the jack tongue into the receiver, jack it up as high as it will go, and then push the vehicle sideways. It can be dangerous but it will get you out of the ruts. And if your front bumper is strong enough you can do the same on the front end as well. I grew up boonie bouncing up in the mountains of Oregon without a winch and have gotten unstuck like this many times. If you choose to do it this way just be mindful of the danger and be very careful.
Ronny , as a city slicker who gets out in the bush only every now and then i really appreciate guys like you who take the time to make vids like this. Thanks mate.
Tim
+Tim Robinson Photography no worrie mate ;)
Tim Robinson Photography-STUDIO 7 I
as a country guy that has been offroading and using recovery equipment regularly through out my whole life, i also really appreciate these videos!
it gives me good way to pass on knowledge to my less experienced friends and i enjoy watching a good lesson when they are this clear, concise and too the point.
Thanks for the quality education and entertainment !
when trying to get information on anything offroad im scrolling till i find your video mate. Best explained, great work.
I love your videos, so thank you. I've been using these for decades, so I have some lessons learned.
-Always be careful your fingers on the upright can't get hit if the handle slips free.
-Keep your head out from above the handle. Lean clear over it, or lean back.
-Have your escape path clear and planned ahead if things start moving. Run, don't try to stop it. Keep onlookers back and out of your escape path.
-Keep a wheel barrow tire and tube (no rim) for sticking between the jack and your rig. Your shirt was doing similar but less effective. You can zip tie the tube to the jack, but usually they either stick there or aren't needed.
-Keep WD-40 on hand (I've recently been told water can lube the pins when sand gets in there).
-You can move either end of your vehicle sideways (like out of a rut) by jacking the center (or low side) until it teaters, then push the rig where you want it to go. Dumping some rocks or logs in the rut before you push can keep it from sliding right back in. I did a complete 180 once on a trail where I had no room to turn around and was already high centered in ruts and pointing toward worse. It took a long time, but less than walking home.
-When you click to the climbing position, you can simply pull up on the handle and it will ratchet up to engage. You don't have to lift first, then click it.
-You can and should jack up to get over hard points like rocks or stumps before you winch forward. But, don't leave your jack there and pull or it will wedge the climbing bar into your rig. Jack up, throw rocks or irritating onlookers under the tires, then take the jack out before winching.
-You can use ratchet straps to keep the foot from sliding when it wants to.
-A base is a must for much terrain, and I prefer my own custom one made of layered plywood with carraige bolts installed to provide pegs for the holes in the foot of my jack so it can't slip off. Then I cross drilled and use pins to hold the jack down to the base, so I can pull my base back up out of the mud or snow after a lift.
FYI, I have a 60" hi-lift Xtreme in my F150, and a 60" Hi-lift firefighter recovery tool in my Grand Cherokee (not worth the extra money, but it has a cool foot with lots of options).
I love your videos, so keep it up. I especially love how you say what features make you prefer something, so if I don't have that same need I can factor that in. Thanks!
Thanks for such a detailed comment!
@@m3zza9 Thank you very much
He's right...the down procedure is dangerous. I was changing a tire without gloves in 110 degree weather. My hands slipped off the handler and it flew up and then just repeatedly jacked itself downward fast. The jack shot off the truck too. Luckily I was off to the side. Great video
love that land cruiser!!!
I would classify this as a much-needed PSA, thanks.
Ronny - This was a really well made video. I especially liked how you repeated and emphasized the risks of injury when using a farm jack, and actually demonstrated the backlash of the handle if the user lets go halfway through a stroke when lowering the vehicle. Back when I was a kid in the '60's, these were the standard jack that came with cars and pickup trucks (of course, they were only as long as needed to lift the vehicle for a tire change). I remember my Dad warning me about how dangerous they were if used carelessly. The screw-type scissors jack became the standard OEM tire changing jack in light duty trucks and cars here in the U.S. sometime in the early 1970's as I recall.
I am new to jeeps and off roading, Of all the TH-cam channels I watch of the different expeditions and how-to do videos I like your channel the best.
I wish I lived in Western Australia so I could go out with you guys.
+wrangler cheers mate appreciate the feedback
He wants to say "no you dont" so bad.
That was a great lesson. My lifted FJ came with a tiny bottle jack. So, hi-lift jack. Thank You, Ronny, for taking the time to pass on this knowledge on how to use and not use a hi-lift jack. I will get familiar with it in the driveway.
I've lived in a remote area of the Southern California Mojave Desert for 44 years and have been stuck in blow sand probably 100 times. Trying to dig your way out of sand is a wasted effort. The only way for one person alone to get out is to jack up the vehicle and fill in the holes under the wheel or wheels with rocks and sand, or whatever.... I have a high lift jack that I carry in my old 1978 Dodge Colt that I bought new and still tool around the desert with. The high lift jack is dangerous to use, but as you've shown in your really good video blog, it's highly effective and will get you out of almost impossible situations. My old Dodge Colt has steel bumpers and the high lift has been worth it's weight in 20 dollar bills for me. It's gotten me out of sand when the temperature was 118 plus, and being stuck in those conditions is not a guarantee toward continued good health.
Ronnie has learnt and shared a lot of good info over the years, He is one of a few who takes pride in what he teaches, I have been using Hi-Lifts for decades and it is good to see Ronnie teaching the safe tried and true methods of self recovery, WTG Ronnie.
Hi Ronny, I am new to 4 wheeling. I received a 4x4 and I'm planning on using it properly. Thanks to you and a few others I feel more confident about my first expedition over Easter. Thanks mate, your videos are heaps good.
this was the most helpful "how to high lift jack" I've seen. thank you!
Very useful video. Great explanations of how to use and how not to kill your self or damage your vehicle while using.
Thanks for the very informative video. Hi-Lift should make a video like this.
I've got a high lift, or as we call it, a tractor jack. It's probably 60 years old but works perfectly. Also have a manual tire bead breaker stamped Sears and Robuck1933. It works great too. Antiques I got from my father.
Hey Aussies
I saw a little mini pickup truck in Scottsdale AZ March 15, 2023.
It's about time.
Heya there Ronny, love you use of the shirt, but I have a better solution. I have a split pool noodle on my highlift jack to avoid vibration noise while driving, works great as a panel guard aswell.
Great idea, I have a spare one laying around.
I also use a split one on the back of my roof flat rack when I want to slide things up on to it.
Whilst there are a number of comments in the video about safety there are other points to note (as some reviewers have commented too).
Firstly, one must always chock the wheels before using the jack to prevent the vehicle moving (as the jeep did). Applying the hand brake is no substitute; if the vehicle has a transmission brake, like a Land Rover, it can move as soon as the first wheel comes off the ground; if the hand brake operates on the rear wheels and you are lifting the rear the brakes become ineffective as the weight comes off the wheels.
The other major risk is that the shoe of the jack can slip sideways if you are jacking under a bumper or a sill. It's far better to use a jacking point (which may require an adapter) or to weld metal lugs under the bumper or sill (as I have done on my 4x4).
These jacks can be lethal and when used in recovery situations conditions are often challenging and the user may be very stressed. Carry the right kit with you (e.g. jack adapter and wheel chocks) and you are more likely to achieve a good outcome.
Anyhow it's an informative video particularly for those not used to these jacks.
I've just bought one of these but have not used it yet. I feel prepared now after watching this. Thanks for the effort!
thank you for teaching us high lift safety!!
Bloody good advice. Thanks for this! I just got a 3" lift and didn't even consider that my factory jack is probably a bit useless now.
Dont forget the stock scissor jack will still help for a tire swap. It only works if you can get under the axle. Of course if you have tires oversized it may not help. But considering most vehicles have a spot to store it anyways keep it on hand and dont forget it may be usefull
Cheers for that Ron, I haven't got a high lift Jack but now I know how to use it safely for when I do
Great video, I especially like the improvising of a strap to make a wheel lift. I like how you showed when things go sideways as well.
Well made video. Great step-by-step how to along with emphasizing the risks of injury when using the Farm Jack.
Thanks Ronny for the advice, safety is everything anytime even more so if you are remote. Really enjoy your vids... cheers.
Ronny, this is a great video. So much I could comment on but I will keep it short. Showing how that handle can slap back was awesome. I have done a few recoveries with these jacks. Respect the jack! The suggestion to try it in your driveway before needing it is spot on. And you didn't mention it but folks never ever get under a rig supported by a farmers jack.
Watched a number of your videos so far and you've got some great stuff. I'm glad you're showing people HOW to use this tool and the dangers that are waiting. I don't use the high lift anymore... it's incredibly dangerous. I have instead custom built a aluminum floor jack with custom bolt on blocks that are waaaay better and safer. It is a bit heavier, but I'll take the weight and keep my fingers.
Super clear video, thanks so much for uploading.
Grew up around vehicles that had bumper jacks for the factory. My grandparents and dad always threw them out and got a bottle jack as a replacement because they had experiences where the bottom would shoot out
Hi Ronny, Only just getting into 4 wheeling. Your videos are truly awesome and so informative, thank you.
Informative video that could save a few lives.
Great demo mate you blokes downunder know your 4x4 stuff, just got a Hi-Lift for my mitsy l200 ill need a couple of straps and D shackles to reach under front recovery lugs and ill feel more confident when using the jack, good point about side step slide!! Regards from boggy Ireland 😂🍀👍
Gracias por compartir experiencias de vida en el aprendizaje, saludos desde mexico
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. I’m new to all this and I find your videos the most helpful.
Really good video on using high jack and it's hazards...thanks.
Only person who tells you about the 50kgs weight factor’ well done
Definitely the best high lift jack vid and now I'm kinda sacred of my high lift jack.
Well, you're not supposed to lift more than one wheel off the ground at a time unless you absolutely have to, so that was kind of a negligent mistake.
Just respect it mate and you will be fine. Never stand in front of the jack or handle, allways stand the side doesnt matter which on
We use ours on the farm a lot. From changing tractor tyres to lifting up drawbars of heavy trailers.... wouldn't go anywhere without it!
ADVANCEDTECHTIPS On farms they are great for many things from lifting dozer blades to changing traktor tyres.
Great for lifting timber and spreading something you're working on.
I stopped using them on 4wd's many years ago when I realised they are too inconvenient and sometimes dangerous.
It's a farm tool - not a 4wd tool.
Ade Larsen Yeah I agree. Since my comment I have even lifted the corner of a 40ft sea container on the farm with the high lift to level it out. Definitely proved its worth!
too what?
Having used mine once. I realize how much more I need to use it. You really have to get out and test your equipment. Even if you do it in a driveway. I used mine to help with a vehicle in my garage. Super nervous and trying an operation I had not practiced. I feel a little better about it now. But I need a lot more practice. I knew the principles and have even fully disassembled mine to do a complete rebuild. But all of that and my video watching did not completely prepare me.
In my 20+ years of working on cars, I’ve learned a few things. One is that the most useful tools are usually the most dangerous. This is no exception. Be careful everyone.
Make sure the pins move freely and squirt with some lube once in awhile, especially if you carry them on the outside of your vehicle. If they dont engage fully bad things can happen. I have had the handle start ratcheting down and you cant get close to grab it. These are extremely dangerous if you are not careful, always double check and be aware of whats going on. Having said that they are one of the handiest tools you can carry for lots of purposes. I have also used them for stretching fence wire etc.
I actually have one with special grabbers on the ends just for stretching fences. Glad to know at least someone actually used one for that purpose.
Check out the Rescue42 Jackmate. It's fifty US dollars but adds a lot of possible ways to use your High Lift Jack. Instead of using the pin that came with it I use a longer bolt like comes with the Jack. More secure during travel and storage. Probably overkill during use but better safe than sorry.
Great video and good emphasis on safety. Thanks Ronny
Ronny thanks for the tips and Video. I noticed when you were lifting with the straps on the lift you put your padding on the body of the vehicle. You could also put a long wooden block between the jack and the tire, allowing jack to hit the block and push block intothe tire which would prevent all body damage. Cheers Mate
Thanks very much. Most informative. I got one as a Christmas present and although I eventually worked out how to raise the jack, I could not fathom how ti lower it.
Wow! I have never used one of these but now I see how dangerous they can be. Thanks for the videos man. Keep them coming.
The wood is a great idea but i would reccomend framing the base on the wood though. Metal can be very slick on wood. I use 2x4 arround the highlift base over top of the high lift. I would also stand to the side just in case the hi lift slips and kicks out at the base
Onya Ronny. Excellent vid
Thanks for the video. Although not as practical to carry, but any jack can be used with proper wood base. With some rocks properly positioned under the wood base, the shorter Hi-Lift jack can easily do the job. Houses have been lifted with hydraulic and proper wood base.
If I could give this two thumbs-up, I would. Great video, and excellent audio.
another trick if all you have is the short farm Jack is to use a ratchet strap to strap your axle to the frame before lifting, this will keep your suspension from extending so you don't have to lift as high. only use very high quality ratchet straps due to the danger of the strap breaking and the the suspension forcing the tire down with a ton of force.
Good video. Thanks.
great safety demo Ronny
good knowledge and thanks for sharing, great instructional video. Have you ever though of being an air steward 🙂
Fantastic clip Ron!!! Thanks for doing all this clips...very very helpful.
Thanks mate glad you found them useful.
Really great video Ronny
Exactly right , lifting on a smooth side step bar is dangerous even with the brake on it can still slide on sand or mud . I use one of those sling hooks attachment lift mates to lift the wheel when in a bog or place another jack or two under on blocks and let down on that to change a wheel .
High-Lift jacks are great but they have a low margin for error . A bull bag is probably safer for lifting both wheels . Your strap is too long , if you shorten it the jacking mechanism stays down lower near the tyre . Less potential for damage .
This is an excellent and very educational video! Thank you for taking the time to make it.
+RikuSpirit no problem
Few years ago, when I first started learning recovery and self-reliance, I watched a bloke use a hi-lift jack, he put his chest between the handle and the jack, using his weight to push down. Kinda swinging over the handle. There was this sudden noise like a street fight had broken out, about 6 blokes (including me) started yelling at him to stop. We were so loud, if there were a bucks party next door, they would have complained about the noise.
Very, very educational.
Great videos Ronnie. I have only just started heading out bush and the information you provide on this channel is sure to come in handy! Cheers from SA.
They were called Wallaby jacks where I grew up. because of the action of the handle
Hello, Ronny, from central Mississippi, USofA. Just found your channel; liked what I saw; and subscribed. Another name for these jacks is "Sheep Herder" jack. Maybe that's from using one to stretch fencing. Anyway, I've had my Sheepherder; Hi-Lift; etc. jack for about 38 years or so. Been in storage for most of that time. Just pulling it out again because I now have a 1981 Jeep CJ-7 thanks to my son-in-law. He wanted my 1976 Chevy half-ton, short wheelbased, stepside pickup ;and I wanted his Jeep. I've had 4x4 trucks before, but this is my first JEEP. We're both in "hog heaven". lololol. Anyway, one small tip. When not actually jacking the handle, leave it in the upright position just in case the lock handle is knocked to the down position. That's extra insurance against getting wacked by the handle as you demonstrated in this video. I really like your rig man, except for one thing......the steering wheel is on the wrong side. lololol. Those stock jacks could be used as buried, deadman winch anchors. Have a Blessed Day, my friend.
You had me about ready to write a long dissertation about the adjustable control (radius) arms. How could you not elaborate more on them? That is by far the best way and easiest way to correct caster. If you're going to all the trouble to weld brackets or install adjustable ball joints (kingpins), a few dollars will buy you some adjustable control arms with heavy-duty Heim-type bearings that flex easier than any others you will try. With this type of arm, you can fine-tune the caster to exact tolerances. All the other methods are by the "guess method" and will frustrate the hell out of you getting the caster where you REALLY want it and you'll end up settling for a lesser quality job. I've done several vehicle lifts and would never consider any of the first options you laid out.
Thanks ronny ur a big help. Keep doing what ya love mate.
Amazing video! Super useful. Just bought a hi lift jack for my VDJ 76. I will start practising :-)
Ronny is a legend
Thank you.. just got a offroad jack, this was helpful
Great video
Whenever you jack up a vehicle regardless if the surface is flat or slanted, secure your wheels with your handbrake and put a rock or something in front/behind the wheel to prevent it from moving/rolling. Just my 50c. For the rest great video! Thanks!
Very good point, thanks for your comment
It is not a good idea to use handbrake alone with a 4WD which has a driveline handbrake. Some rear wheel handbrake systems with one-piece shoes are also useless when the vehicle rolls in the reverse direction.
You guys do a fabulous job. Thanks a lot.
loved this video as I'm going for a hi jack!
12:00 in a shackle would secure the slings!! get some shackles.
Keeping your head away from that handle when lowering is great advice.
Many years ago I was cracked in the head from the handle. All my own stupid fault but WOW did it hurt, was seeing stars for a bit and sported a bruise which ensured embarrassment.
Thanks for this great video. I reckon WA must be the 4WD capital of the world.
You can change a wheel with a farm jack lifting the rim, lift and shove a log under the axle, drop the jack change the wheel, reversr step one to whatever and your done. I have done this Cheers
Nice work mate!
Can you do a segment , using a high lift jack as a PRESS to change control arm bushes on the track?
Great video, got stuck in mud with my Tacoma, recently, this would have helped, thanks.
It really is a good idea to use a bar or something long to knock the selector into "lower" from the side with a bit of distance if you can. I have seen them immediately release and go flying as the vehicle fell.
I believe you should still be able to raise the body with the selector in the "lift" position, it should just ratchet up.
I saw a doco years ago with Malcomb Douglass using a Kanga jack, he jacked up the front and pushed it sideways to get the wheels out of a rut in doing so he nearly lost his legs as it flicked out. Funniest thing I've seen, he wasn't the sharpest tool in the shed.
Great video Ronny, I recovered many a vehicle with these, more times using it to winch than lift unfortunately.
Good of you to concentrate on the safety
Also, don't ever click the lever down if the handle is down while there is weight on the jack.
keep that in mind
Did that once. Once is all it took to learn that. Great tip!
good look ronny very safe
Love all your videos mate, you're a champion!
You rock Ron..!
It's a lil bit monotone 😂but your videos are always very informative so I keep coming back. Good job bud!
thanks for your help and explanations.
Another use is to use the instability of the jack get a high centered vehicle free. especially if you have something crosswise under an axle, such as a log. Jack up the vehicle from the bumper on the OPPOSITE end you wish to go. From the front bumper if you want to go backward, rear bumper to to forward. Jack up the Jeep until it frees from the log or what ever the vehicle is stuck on and push hard. The Jeep will fall off the jack, hopefully far enough to be freed from the object its stuck on. WATCH YOUR TOES of the falling jack. if you have a winch use that, but this technique will work in a pinch. :disclaimer, this will take paint off of the bumper and possibly cause other damage if your rig is not up to the task.
Thanks for a great video Ronny. Very informative
Ronny, you planning on doing a winching with a hilift video? There are a few but none that I really like. Obviously you wouldn't need to do this very often but I'd sure appreciate it.
Patrick Rich its something we may done later on after some other video already planned
Great video. Thanks for the info.
great video. Love your explanations. Thanks
hi Ronny, thanks for your tips!
Fabian Erde no worries
Love the videos Ronny, really helpful
Another way to use this type of jack, Although I'm not recommending it because it's dangerous. But I have done it myself many times. If you are in the mud and stuck in deep ruts and have tried everything else, you can remove the hitch from the receiver, slide the jack tongue into the receiver, jack it up as high as it will go, and then push the vehicle sideways. It can be dangerous but it will get you out of the ruts. And if your front bumper is strong enough you can do the same on the front end as well. I grew up boonie bouncing up in the mountains of Oregon without a winch and have gotten unstuck like this many times. If you choose to do it this way just be mindful of the danger and be very careful.
Thanks very much, really well explained.
+Buzz Bayley no worries
Great videos and channel Ronny, if you're ever in California come 4-wheeling!
Wow this was a really good video!