One thing you didn’t mention is that you can adjust the collar with sprocket attached, in or out to line up the sprocket & chain with the motor drive sprocket. You can find adapters if you do a search with "80cc motor CNC sprocket adapter". They come in 1", 1 1/2" and 2" diameters.
love the show- used this item on my beach cruiser and had no choice but to slam the breaks down and the breke arm that i bent to clear sprocket buckled. you ever have this problem?
Thank you so much. For what ever reason I've never needed to do any work with sprockets. Now I'm wanting to build a small EV trike from scratch, and I'm comfortable with everything involved...except how to get the damn power from the motor to the axle shaft. Don't know the terminology for the parts and been having a helluva time finding just the basics on how to add sprockets to anything, particularly a smooth shaft in a "built from scratch" type axle. This is a great start on the topic, thank you. I'll check out your other vids. I have a 1hp motor that I want to use for the trike, but it's got a smooth shaft and has what I think is called a keyway (groove or channel carved into the shaft). So now I just need to figure out the proper way of getting a sprocket on that and I'll have all the info I need to feel comfortable starting. Been frustrating to be held up over such a little thing. I was sure it was a simple job, so thank you again!
Dear Sir-Still on the fence with the sprocket adapters. My 13 year old first bike build was stolen last Friday:( Have you had any problems with your sprocket adapter slipping?My new bike has a painted hub, which I don't know if this will be an issue with the hub adapter slipping. The incoming sprocket adapter does have recessed screw holes. Thanx for any updates-John in
Yeah, i'm in the same boat. I hear slippage is a common problem. If you're interested, Build-Break-Fix TH-cam channel has a video that addresses this (basically lightly sanding contact points on the adapter as well as the hub & using Loctite).
This is 10yrs old but I'm in the process of a mongoose dolomite and motorizing it. Can you provide me with a link to that specific sprocket adapter. I bought two and still too smal.
Man definitely use lock tite on these sprockets. I got mine and I love it but, twice now it has started coming apart on me while riding! Luckily I wasn’t going very fast cause the first time it made my back wheel lockup. The second time, about an hour ago, it broke the chain. Getting lock tite.
With the bikes that I have put together....when I have the rear axle taken apart to install either the rag joint or the hub lock type, I loosen the bearing axle pack of both sides and put in a bit more High Pressure and High Heat bearing grease. It doesn't take much but it insures that the axle bearings are good to go. I do the same for the front axle, too. My reasoning is this.... We humans put out about 1/5th of a horsepower. Most of the Chinese Engines start out at about 2.2 horsepower. With the addition of a few bolt-on parts, Tuned pipe, Bigger Carb, High compression head, Hotter ignition, Hotter plug, these engines can be teased to 4.7 - 5 hp. This puts a lot of additional strain on the bike quite a ways above the Designed strength of the said Bicycle. My bike is a Fat Framed Aluminum Beach Cruiser, a bit longer and a bit lower, with 2.25 Tires at 45 lbs.
im surprised nobody ever mentions how these things can slip, especially with a torquey predator motor and a large, torquey sprocket. that, along with a smaller 1" hub, and now you really have almost nothing holding the thing on the hub. it's only a smooth surface clamped to another smooth surface. that thing slips on the hub and youre looking at a broken spoke disaster!! at least with a 1-1/2 incher the clamp has some more meat to grab. so to speak. I would be extra generous with the perma-strength red Loctite, and I would assure that the clamp bolts are NOT near bottomed out, and I would sand the clamp's 2 flat spots where the bolts go so it tightens down that little extra bit. I want every bit of clamp force I can get. another thing im gonna try to accomplish is to install it with the thru-bolts to the sprocket already touching the next spoke so if it does want to slip, it's not going to get a head start with momentum to really slip and start ripping spokes before I notice its not holding
like your video . i took a piece of string and wrap it around my rear hub it was 41/4 what size would work for a hub adopter can't figure it out . can you help me .thanks
Out of curiosity, how tight is this on the hub? I know, at least on my bike, the hub is relatively smooth and there's not much for the clamp to grip on to, so is there still a lot of force on the spokes as it spins?
...and that sucks. this is a real issue. I find it odd how the makers of these adapters will tell the world how much safer they are than the stock rag joint, and then charge BIG $ for one, just to have the thing slip and destroy your spokes before you even make it out of the driveway. SHOWS OVER!!! ( i would be furious to say the least) at least a rag is gonna last you a few thousand miles done correctly and not abused mercilessly. this thing can end it for you in the first 20 seconds.
your highness,..it was your post that probably saved me a ton of BS. I went right out, bought one, and was all ready to just slap it on there without any type of Loctite or epoxy or whatever. your method is good. i like the one, tack weld the key's ends right to the hub and put a matching groove in the adapter. then mount the adapter between the tack welds. unfortunately, i got no welder, and i have an aluminum 1-1/4" hub. if roughing the surfaces and perma-red Loctite doesn't work for me, im gonna have to come up with something radical
How would this compare to just drilling new holes in the sprocket to attach it on the disc brake 6 bolt factory mount on the hub which is already fitted on the bike? Thank you for the reply
Hey. My adapter is 1.5 inch same as hub but doesn’t fit correctly through the spokes. . If used this adapters before but this one giving me major fitment trouble
Hey bud,where can I buy that sprocket adapter and can it be used on any motor kit or is it for a certain motor kit?Do you have to order the sprocket for the size hub you're working on or are these sprockets universal?Great video,keep up the good work bud.
Have you ever had issues with the hub adapter? I have a cnc dolphin 1in adapter and a cdh 2in adapter for 2 different bikes both 40t sprockets. And having issues with both. The issue the chain gets tighter and looser at different points of the rotation.
As soon as time allows. Those are fairly labor intensive and Im fairly busy right now. However, good idea for a video. I'll see what i can do to show the basics of a build
I'm wanting to get one of these adapters for my bike but the shaft size for my wheel is between 1" and 1.5". The sprocket adapters only come in three sizes, 1", 1.5", and 1.8". Any idea on what I should do to insure a proper fit? I was thinking about getting the 1.5" one and improvising a spacer but I'm not sure that would work very well.
mine is 1-1/4". I went out and found myself a brass 1-1/4IDx1-1/2ODx1-1/2long bushing, had it cut in half lengthwise, (clamshell) and am about to install all that with red perma strength Loctite between the hub and the adaptor, not the bolts. beware- these things can slip and rip your spokes to hell and gone. destroyed. its only a smooth surface tightened down onto another smooth surface. ensure the thing is really attached.
I accidently bought the size with the hub hole too big do you think there is a way to jimmy this to still work because its from china shipping took a month
You would think they are and its simple bolt on but no you do have to be careful and watch how you mount it and also come up with a way to stop slipping. Different hubs its not a issue but with some its a very big issue. Tap a screw and your good or a key or what i did was use a steel wire mesh tape around hub. But with that it pushes it off center so need to line it all up just right. And hope your set up is made right with no high or low spots
So I purchased a 36 sprocket with the adapter it’s a little to big for my hub is there anyway around making it work without replacing the whole wheel ?
Hello i just made a beach cruiser motor bike and i am wanting to get a new sprocket this is the one i want 40 Tooth CNC Sprocket and Adapter Assembly but i don't know what size my hub is.Can anyone help me please? here are the sizes they offer 1.0inch 1.5inch 1.8inch so what size you know that well fix?
@@HughesMotorized hmm 🤔 ok where to get a decent one? Bc I’ve had well aligned ones lock tite and all come loose anyway the bolts didn’t even really match the threads on some of these tho a lot of them actually now I’ve seen a lot of people take longer bolts and put a nut on the backside and locktite that and it hold
@@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90 If your bike is not highly modified, go with a rag joint. A properly setup one is fine. You have to tune the CNC adapter ones. A little filing or shim it to make it solid. AND thick spokes are important too. Other than that go w/ a top hat adapter where the sprocket is bolted onto the disc brake mount
Bought the bbr 1" adapter for a seven speed Electra cruiser. Has about a 1 mm gap and thus will end up sliding on the hub. Any recommend on what to wrap or use as spacer on the hub to make it tight?
i have the same question , the generic ones are 38mm if i remember , made to fit shimano coaster hubs , but eventually i want to run a old sturmey 3speed , did not found bigger inner holes yet :(
Seems like on many hubs and like mine, there is a flange where the spokes connect. Thus the hub may centrally be one inch or whatever but at the ends flares wider. Latest update, my adapter actually slipped and broke spokes. Now I am at the crossroads of fixing the rim and working out a new shim plan or pursue bbr mag wheels that the sprocket hooks directly to the end of the hub. Anyone had any experiences with shim or the bbr mags?
+HoustonMotorized yeah they said no motors but the guys that work there Friday night when the owner is not there help me out. I keep running into more problems every time I fix something else it's like a big money pool. I regret buying it but it's really cool to have. Thank you for all your help and videos tho.
My CNC 3 point sprocket adapter and 41 tooth sprocket just arrived today. When I tighten it to the hub , it is slightly smaller than my hub, allowing enough space to just slide a sheet of paper between the two halves of the adapter. I think it is better than being to loose. QUESTION: When I tighten the adapter to the hub, should the sprocket rest against the spokes, or pulled away a little from the spokes. Or do you adjust the adapter in or out along the hub to line up with the crank sprocket. Does it matter?
you have to shim some wheels to stop that. You can cut a piece of soda can and put where adapter mates w/ hub. You also need to make sure there's a gap between both inner clamping pieces when tightened
Hughes Motorized ok, I have the 1” adapter for mine also. And it came with rubber to put on the axle but it is already chewed up. So just wrap a strip of aluminum can around the axle? Or multiple layers
@@Hashainderjit123 shoot me some pics so we on the same page. Show me what adapter you have and the area on the wheel you want to mount it on. houstonmotorizedbicycles@gmail.com
The same thing happened to my rim. I know I didn’t install it correctly so after watching again and reading the comments I have a better idea of what to do this time and will give it a run again. If there’s no slippage on the hub, then all I need it to locktite the bolts and will be good to ride on? My buddy was telling me that rag joints are easier on the spokes then the sprocket adapters, how can I convince him otherwise?
Moshe Bassman if you have a 1.5 or 2 inch hub you should be fine. I just recently got a wheel built with a disc brake hub. That is the 100% best way to do it. I’ve never had issues with the rag joint. It just take awhile to get nuts on tight and sprocket spinning true. If you have like an am6 or a motor with higher hp then I would worry about rag joints but stock is totally fine to run rag joints. But I would highly recommend searching for disc hub rim.
You can try scuffing the hub to crate more friction. Add a soda/beer can shim to tighten up. If I'm going to the expense of a hub sprocket adapter i usually go with a HD steel wheel w/ 11ga spokes
I am experiencing an issue with the whole sprocket and adapter set in which the screws are loosening when I'm riding with the engine on. It seems the vibration causes the sprocket screws to loosen. Am i suppose to add lock washers or is there something i need to do? Please provide me with a solution because I can not keep it together without them loosening.
Disk mount best, second best is the one rag joint method. Where you go metal on metal on the outside. Replace the hardware with black Allen Bolts from your local Home Depot, combined with good quality lock nuts. Just keep them tight you never ever problem. Hub adapters just Destroy your Wheels, looks like a good idea in theory but they're only being held to your Hub by two bolts, opposed to 9
I've put on my dad's using the rag joint, my first time, had to remove the dust cap, went on good, hardly to no up and down movement, a little side to side, which is expected, trued it some more to where it keeps the chain on, but it can't be perfectly spot on, every time I visit, I check on things and tighten the bolt, no big problem, when I get bite by the motorized bug, well it was not the same when doing the rag joint on mine, frustrated me cause I could not true it enough that would kept the chain on, when I first looked at get myself a motor, I, as I have done, learned and asked others about their knowledge and experienced with them, so l knew there was chances somethings wouldn't work as well on another bike, because of quality on the makers or the bike, so alternative choices are always good to have and the hub adapter was my alternative option, I don't have no problems with it as the slippage hasn't happened to me the sprocket is as straight as an arrow, no up and down or side to side play at all, I love it just cuz effective having to mess around with my dad every time I visit him I don't have to come home and mess around with mine
@@dannymartinez8314 i feel you, if you start to have a problem, if you only use one rag joint instead you won't have a problem with the wobble. Put the teeth facing outwards if you have an indented sprocket. Personally, I only use the 10 spoke mags now. They are totally worth the money. They're pretty much maintenance-free the hubs usually don't loosen up or Tighten Up On You.
@@marcs4091 wait, what do you mean one rag joint, metel on metel? Can you explain it with more details, I've installed rag joint on my son's occ Schwinn stingray chopper, went on without a problem.
+HoustonMotorized ....And since the hub-mount adapters are in direct contact with the hub, they also act as a heat sink which dissipates excess heat from the coaster brake and bearings, thereby increasing the lifespan of your hub.
you bought a bad sprocket. there are sprockets with FLAT hex screws that go in flush with the sprocket so you wouldn't have had to bend your plate at all.
That sucks. Buy that expensive sprocket mount, and then have to beat the brake arm with a hammer? They should make offset brake arms to go with that sprocket mount. Rather than make a mess like that I would probably just leave the rear brake off and use a good V brake in the front. When are motorized bicycle parts manufacturers going to get with it and build parts that will just bolt together without any bending, grinding, cutting, etc?
thats a cheap hub sprocket thingy theres better ones with reesed bolt holes no big allen bolts sticks out! but even this cheap version is way better than that junk kits come with rag joint thingy!
How am i supposed to pit the bolts in after getting the adapter on? The spacers arent short enough for the bolts and i dont know what the other 3 set of bolts are for what the fuck is this shit
My adapter doesn’t shut all the way there is a little gap after I screw down the 2 Allen bolts. It doesn’t close all the way around the hub but it’s tight and not moving .. not sure if I can leave it and go ahead and put the sprocket on now or what
I swear, the intro music sounds like a porno from the 80s. Lol! NEVER CHANGE A THING!
I thought this was a nerd porno anyhow. Seems fitting!
One thing you didn’t mention is that you can adjust the collar with sprocket attached, in or out to line up the sprocket & chain with the motor drive sprocket.
You can find adapters if you do a search with "80cc motor CNC sprocket adapter". They come in 1", 1 1/2" and 2" diameters.
love the show- used this item on my beach cruiser and had no choice but to slam the breaks down and the breke arm that i bent to clear sprocket buckled. you ever have this problem?
Thank you so much. For what ever reason I've never needed to do any work with sprockets. Now I'm wanting to build a small EV trike from scratch, and I'm comfortable with everything involved...except how to get the damn power from the motor to the axle shaft. Don't know the terminology for the parts and been having a helluva time finding just the basics on how to add sprockets to anything, particularly a smooth shaft in a "built from scratch" type axle. This is a great start on the topic, thank you. I'll check out your other vids. I have a 1hp motor that I want to use for the trike, but it's got a smooth shaft and has what I think is called a keyway (groove or channel carved into the shaft). So now I just need to figure out the proper way of getting a sprocket on that and I'll have all the info I need to feel comfortable starting. Been frustrating to be held up over such a little thing. I was sure it was a simple job, so thank you again!
jasondean88888 +
7:56 "My memory is starting to kick in and I know I'm a be alright" that made smile.
Dear Sir-Still on the fence with the sprocket adapters. My 13 year old first bike build was stolen last Friday:( Have you had any problems with your sprocket adapter slipping?My new bike has a painted hub, which I don't know if this will be an issue with the hub adapter slipping. The incoming sprocket adapter does have recessed screw holes. Thanx for any updates-John in
Yeah, i'm in the same boat. I hear slippage is a common problem. If you're interested, Build-Break-Fix TH-cam channel has a video that addresses this (basically lightly sanding contact points on the adapter as well as the hub & using Loctite).
This is 10yrs old but I'm in the process of a mongoose dolomite and motorizing it. Can you provide me with a link to that specific sprocket adapter. I bought two and still too smal.
Thank you for making this easy to understand. Good job.
Do you have a video on how to install the motor and complete the job?
Yes, look on my channel. I have 2 playlists
Man definitely use lock tite on these sprockets. I got mine and I love it but, twice now it has started coming apart on me while riding! Luckily I wasn’t going very fast cause the first time it made my back wheel lockup. The second time, about an hour ago, it broke the chain. Getting lock tite.
After you install one of these cnc sprocket adapters you will never install a rag joint ever again. they are so much worth the money.
With the bikes that I have put together....when I have the rear axle taken apart to install either the rag joint or the hub lock type, I loosen the bearing axle pack of both sides and put in a bit more High Pressure and High Heat bearing grease. It doesn't take much but it insures that the axle bearings are good to go. I do the same for the front axle, too.
My reasoning is this.... We humans put out about 1/5th of a horsepower. Most of the Chinese Engines start out at about 2.2 horsepower.
With the addition of a few bolt-on parts, Tuned pipe, Bigger Carb, High compression head, Hotter ignition, Hotter plug, these engines can be teased to 4.7 - 5 hp.
This puts a lot of additional strain on the bike quite a ways above the Designed strength of the said Bicycle.
My bike is a Fat Framed Aluminum Beach Cruiser, a bit longer and a bit lower, with 2.25 Tires at 45 lbs.
im surprised nobody ever mentions how these things can slip, especially with a torquey predator motor and a large, torquey sprocket. that, along with a smaller 1" hub, and now you really have almost nothing holding the thing on the hub. it's only a smooth surface clamped to another smooth surface. that thing slips on the hub and youre looking at a broken spoke disaster!! at least with a 1-1/2 incher the clamp has some more meat to grab. so to speak. I would be extra generous with the perma-strength red Loctite, and I would assure that the clamp bolts are NOT near bottomed out, and I would sand the clamp's 2 flat spots where the bolts go so it tightens down that little extra bit. I want every bit of clamp force I can get. another thing im gonna try to accomplish is to install it with the thru-bolts to the sprocket already touching the next spoke so if it does want to slip, it's not going to get a head start with momentum to really slip and start ripping spokes before I notice its not holding
like your video . i took a piece of string and wrap it around my rear hub it was 41/4 what size would work for a hub adopter can't figure it out . can you help me .thanks
No idea. Sounds like it just needs a shim
So there's no need to to drill a hole in the hub and the hub adapter so the Is adapter doesn't slip?
Out of curiosity, how tight is this on the hub? I know, at least on my bike, the hub is relatively smooth and there's not much for the clamp to grip on to, so is there still a lot of force on the spokes as it spins?
I had to use a woodruff key to prevent slippage th-cam.com/video/JL28GtEw3LE/w-d-xo.html
...and that sucks. this is a real issue. I find it odd how the makers of these adapters will tell the world how much safer they are than the stock rag joint, and then charge BIG $ for one, just to have the thing slip and destroy your spokes before you even make it out of the driveway. SHOWS OVER!!! ( i would be furious to say the least) at least a rag is gonna last you a few thousand miles done correctly and not abused mercilessly. this thing can end it for you in the first 20 seconds.
your highness,..it was your post that probably saved me a ton of BS. I went right out, bought one, and was all ready to just slap it on there without any type of Loctite or epoxy or whatever. your method is good. i like the one, tack weld the key's ends right to the hub and put a matching groove in the adapter. then mount the adapter between the tack welds. unfortunately, i got no welder, and i have an aluminum 1-1/4" hub. if roughing the surfaces and perma-red Loctite doesn't work for me, im gonna have to come up with something radical
What was that toll you use for bending the coaster break thing ?
will this work for a lowrider style rim with a lot of straight spokes?
what size is a huffy crankbrook hub
1.5"
Thanks for the vid... my mongoose malus wheel OD measures 1 1/8", which size sprocket should i use?
Id say go for the 1 inch, you can file it to fit. It might take 45 mins or so amzn.to/2ubY2Bm
How would this compare to just drilling new holes in the sprocket to attach it on the disc brake 6 bolt factory mount on the hub which is already fitted on the bike? Thank you for the reply
Hey. My adapter is 1.5 inch same as hub but doesn’t fit correctly through the spokes. . If used this adapters before but this one giving me major fitment trouble
Just what size is you sprocket adapter?I have a Mongoose Terrex with big wheels and i am like that I need the same size that you have.
Hey bud,where can I buy that sprocket adapter and can it be used on any motor kit or is it for a certain motor kit?Do you have to order the sprocket for the size hub you're working on or are these sprockets universal?Great video,keep up the good work bud.
Hello mr hughes great videos & instructive, great job thanks, say hello from panama republic.
what to do if you have an oval shape hub, which has smaller OD on the center of hub and bigger OD on the end of hub?
wow. an OVAL hub??? you still have your receipt?
Is it 26inch wheel?
could you post one these motorized fat tire builds? Thanks.
Can you tell me where i can order that sprocket and adapter?
ebay.us/QFHma5
Great video I love you videos because,you explain what you're doing very precisely
Have you ever had issues with the hub adapter?
I have a cnc dolphin 1in adapter and a cdh 2in adapter for 2 different bikes both 40t sprockets. And having issues with both. The issue the chain gets tighter and looser at different points of the rotation.
Sounds like the sprocket is out of center
Wouldnt it be best to key the adpater so that it doesnt slip?
good idea
Nice! Where can I find that wheel and white wall tire at?
Does your rear hub need to be a disc brake hub?
Hello will you be posting the predator build? I am building a beach cruiser with the 79cc predator..Thank you?
As soon as time allows. Those are fairly labor intensive and Im fairly busy right now. However, good idea for a video. I'll see what i can do to show the basics of a build
Thanks man!
Is that Samuel Adams or Shiner craft brew?
6 years ago. Might have been Samuel Smiths Ale
I'm wanting to get one of these adapters for my bike but the shaft size for my wheel is between 1" and 1.5". The sprocket adapters only come in three sizes, 1", 1.5", and 1.8". Any idea on what I should do to insure a proper fit? I was thinking about getting the 1.5" one and improvising a spacer but I'm not sure that would work very well.
mine is 1-1/4". I went out and found myself a brass 1-1/4IDx1-1/2ODx1-1/2long bushing, had it cut in half lengthwise, (clamshell) and am about to install all that with red perma strength Loctite between the hub and the adaptor, not the bolts. beware- these things can slip and rip your spokes to hell and gone. destroyed. its only a smooth surface tightened down onto another smooth surface. ensure the thing is really attached.
I accidently bought the size with the hub hole too big do you think there is a way to jimmy this to still work because its from china shipping took a month
You need to buy the correct size
So are these adapters balanced so you don't have to use a hammer to align it with the sprocket on the motor?
+Dan Croft You need to be careful with these. Use your head to hit the sprocket ;-)
You would think they are and its simple bolt on but no you do have to be careful and watch how you mount it and also come up with a way to stop slipping. Different hubs its not a issue but with some its a very big issue. Tap a screw and your good or a key or what i did was use a steel wire mesh tape around hub. But with that it pushes it off center so need to line it all up just right. And hope your set up is made right with no high or low spots
There are adapters with recessed mounting bolts that cure the clearance problems.👍🇺🇸
So I purchased a 36 sprocket with the adapter it’s a little to big for my hub is there anyway around making it work without replacing the whole wheel ?
Yes they sell the sleeve
You Still out there ? What size Hub Adapter did you use on the Beast?
pulesjet maybe 40T????
Help!!!!!! What size?
The Adapter, not the Sprocket.
1.5" 44 tooth
Where do i find the adapter part at brother
Here ya go: amzn.to/48iLgDD
@@HughesMotorized thank you bro
Hi, what size chain are you using on that sprocket adapter?
+Rickolitus Man 415 kit chain or #41 roller chain both work well
Them is some big boy tires! Woo wee
Hello i just made a beach cruiser motor bike and i am wanting to get a new sprocket this is the one i want 40 Tooth CNC Sprocket and Adapter Assembly but i don't know what size my hub is.Can anyone help me please? here are the sizes they offer 1.0inch 1.5inch 1.8inch so what size you know that well fix?
+kris jensen You can get a set of calipers fairly cheap. Most beach cruisers have 1.5 inch
my hubs on both bikes are flared at the ends, I have to rig the hub so there is no flare...
Wat sparkplug do i get after the factory one dies ....ive got the 66cc grubee skyhawk kit thanks yall plz help
Thankyou very much
What’s a good adapter that don’t have the 3 bolts vibrate loose and wreck ya junk
Loctite and let sit overnight
@@HughesMotorized hmm 🤔 ok where to get a decent one? Bc I’ve had well aligned ones lock tite and all come loose anyway the bolts didn’t even really match the threads on some of these tho a lot of them actually now I’ve seen a lot of people take longer bolts and put a nut on the backside and locktite that and it hold
@@motorizedbicyclenation53cu90 If your bike is not highly modified, go with a rag joint. A properly setup one is fine. You have to tune the CNC adapter ones. A little filing or shim it to make it solid. AND thick spokes are important too. Other than that go w/ a top hat adapter where the sprocket is bolted onto the disc brake mount
Bought the bbr 1" adapter for a seven speed Electra cruiser. Has about a 1 mm gap and thus will end up sliding on the hub. Any recommend on what to wrap or use as spacer on the hub to make it tight?
sandworm3 for situations like this, ive always cut a piece of an old inner tube, and put it in as a spacer. Thats probably your best option
duct tape for fine adjustments
Im having trouble bending the brake arm.. I've bent it each way but the right way.
It's an art getting it bent right. Keep at it
What is the inside diameter? I have a 3 speed rear hub that has an outer diameter of 2"
i have the same question , the generic ones are 38mm if i remember , made to fit shimano coaster hubs , but eventually i want to run a old sturmey 3speed , did not found bigger inner holes yet :(
Seems like on many hubs and like mine, there is a flange where the spokes connect. Thus the hub may centrally be one inch or whatever but at the ends flares wider. Latest update, my adapter actually slipped and broke spokes. Now I am at the crossroads of fixing the rim and working out a new shim plan or pursue bbr mag wheels that the sprocket hooks directly to the end of the hub. Anyone had any experiences with shim or the bbr mags?
I fucked up my bearings and bearing cover trying to do this how much do you think it would cost to bring it to a bike shop so they can deal with it
Bike shops hate our hobby. Most shops won't work on these. Probably better off getting a new wheel from Amazon
+HoustonMotorized yeah they said no motors but the guys that work there Friday night when the owner is not there help me out. I keep running into more problems every time I fix something else it's like a big money pool. I regret buying it but it's really cool to have. Thank you for all your help and videos tho.
sternlicht101
My CNC 3 point sprocket adapter and 41 tooth sprocket just arrived today. When I tighten it to the hub , it is slightly smaller than my hub, allowing enough space to just slide a sheet of paper between the two halves of the adapter. I think it is better than being to loose. QUESTION: When I tighten the adapter to the hub, should the sprocket rest against the spokes, or pulled away a little from the spokes. Or do you adjust the adapter in or out along the hub to line up with the crank sprocket. Does it matter?
+JERRYR708 You need some gap to allow for tolerances and allow it to be tight. You will slide the sprocket out some to align with front drive sprocket
hello can you tell me where to get the sprocket adapter ?
+Sam Smith YES, eBay, Manic Mechanic, Bikeberry sell them
Very helpful
I installed one of these on my bike and it started slipping on my axel and has totally destroyed a spoke
you have to shim some wheels to stop that. You can cut a piece of soda can and put where adapter mates w/ hub. You also need to make sure there's a gap between both inner clamping pieces when tightened
Hughes Motorized ok, I have the 1” adapter for mine also. And it came with rubber to put on the axle but it is already chewed up. So just wrap a strip of aluminum can around the axle? Or multiple layers
@@Hashainderjit123 shoot me some pics so we on the same page. Show me what adapter you have and the area on the wheel you want to mount it on. houstonmotorizedbicycles@gmail.com
The same thing happened to my rim. I know I didn’t install it correctly so after watching again and reading the comments I have a better idea of what to do this time and will give it a run again. If there’s no slippage on the hub, then all I need it to locktite the bolts and will be good to ride on? My buddy was telling me that rag joints are easier on the spokes then the sprocket adapters, how can I convince him otherwise?
Moshe Bassman if you have a 1.5 or 2 inch hub you should be fine. I just recently got a wheel built with a disc brake hub. That is the 100% best way to do it. I’ve never had issues with the rag joint. It just take awhile to get nuts on tight and sprocket spinning true. If you have like an am6 or a motor with higher hp then I would worry about rag joints but stock is totally fine to run rag joints. But I would highly recommend searching for disc hub rim.
I have a Micargi Slugo with disc brakes. Do I need one of these to keep the rear brake on the bike when I motorize it? Not sure what to do here.
You may want to consider a Sick Bike Parts jackshaft kit to retain your disc rotor.
How do you keep it from slipping .
You can try scuffing the hub to crate more friction. Add a soda/beer can shim to tighten up. If I'm going to the expense of a hub sprocket adapter i usually go with a HD steel wheel w/ 11ga spokes
Bike+ motor+radio+ helmet with 2 beer holder with straw attached. Good times
wee woo wee woo
pull over
how about when you want to install the sprocket on a mongoose malus fat tire with disc brakes?
There are tophat adapters out there. I don't play w/ fat tire bikes as they seem dangerous if you have a blowout you would regret it
Where buy Sprocket Adapter please share link
ebay
I have a huffy what size do I need for it??????
1.5"
man I cannot find the correct size to fit my roadmaster bike that I also bought from walmart
You can make a key sleeve . Look on u tube for the process
is there a club or a place where you can race them for funny. I live in S.A
thankyou for the help full video soo much
If you use sprocket adapters long enough you know that they slip so might as well take care of that before they do and save a wheel
What size of adapter is that?
1.5"
Where is the cheapest place to get that sproket
There is no cheap one about 80 bucks
Calvin Baker go to gasbike.net
I am experiencing an issue with the whole sprocket and adapter set in which the screws are loosening when I'm riding with the engine on. It seems the vibration causes the sprocket screws to loosen. Am i suppose to add lock washers or is there something i need to do? Please provide me with a solution because I can not keep it together without them loosening.
+Andy Blue loctite thread sealer
Use machine hard screws and countersink them flush No more problem with brake clearance
No free wheeling, rotate continuously as long as the bike is moving.
This man for real sounds like Kevin Costner
🤣🤣
I need yo number I got a 2 stroke motor kit for my bike we’re u location at if so plz I need help
How do you hook up a light or a cigarette lighter?
Ok, so rag joint bad, adapter good, I like it, take the pain of trying to true the damn thing.
I prefer the rag joint myself. I'm cheap and a properly setup rag joint is solid.
Disk mount best, second best is the one rag joint method. Where you go metal on metal on the outside. Replace the hardware with black Allen Bolts from your local Home Depot, combined with good quality lock nuts. Just keep them tight you never ever problem. Hub adapters just Destroy your Wheels, looks like a good idea in theory but they're only being held to your Hub by two bolts, opposed to 9
I've put on my dad's using the rag joint, my first time, had to remove the dust cap, went on good, hardly to no up and down movement, a little side to side, which is expected, trued it some more to where it keeps the chain on, but it can't be perfectly spot on, every time I visit, I check on things and tighten the bolt, no big problem, when I get bite by the motorized bug, well it was not the same when doing the rag joint on mine, frustrated me cause I could not true it enough that would kept the chain on, when I first looked at get myself a motor, I, as I have done, learned and asked others about their knowledge and experienced with them, so l knew there was chances somethings wouldn't work as well on another bike, because of quality on the makers or the bike, so alternative choices are always good to have and the hub adapter was my alternative option, I don't have no problems with it as the slippage hasn't happened to me the sprocket is as straight as an arrow, no up and down or side to side play at all, I love it just cuz effective having to mess around with my dad every time I visit him I don't have to come home and mess around with mine
@@dannymartinez8314 i feel you, if you start to have a problem, if you only use one rag joint instead you won't have a problem with the wobble. Put the teeth facing outwards if you have an indented sprocket. Personally, I only use the 10 spoke mags now. They are totally worth the money. They're pretty much maintenance-free the hubs usually don't loosen up or Tighten Up On You.
@@marcs4091 wait, what do you mean one rag joint, metel on metel? Can you explain it with more details, I've installed rag joint on my son's occ Schwinn stingray chopper, went on without a problem.
I dont think that chain will ever fit. Shit can the coaster brake and put on a disc that will actually stop you. Let's see that when you finish it.
There has to be a lot of tire rub from that chain.
805edog You can clear the tire with the adapter. That is the main point of using it
+HoustonMotorized ....And since the hub-mount adapters are in direct contact with the hub, they also act as a heat sink which dissipates excess heat from the coaster brake and bearings, thereby increasing the lifespan of your hub.
Aluminum sprocket don't see that lasting 5 minutes 😊
9 years and still running fine
USE LOCKTITE I LEARNED THE HARD WAY FROM MY WHEEL LOCKING UP GOING 25MPH AND IT BENT THE SCREW
you bought a bad sprocket. there are sprockets with FLAT hex screws that go in flush with the sprocket so you wouldn't have had to bend your plate at all.
This was done years ago. That's what was on the market. Flush bolts are indeed better as you infer
counter sink those holes.
That sucks. Buy that expensive sprocket mount, and then have to beat the brake arm with a hammer? They should make offset brake arms to go with that sprocket mount. Rather than make a mess like that I would probably just leave the rear brake off and use a good V brake in the front. When are motorized bicycle parts manufacturers going to get with it and build parts that will just bolt together without any bending, grinding, cutting, etc?
vulcan1753
vulcan1753 xx then stop buying Chinese garbage and put a chainsaw on the bike, much better match up I've done several
Dansler Shaw
MN
thats a cheap hub sprocket thingy theres better ones with reesed bolt holes no big allen bolts sticks out! but even this cheap version is way better than that junk kits come with rag joint thingy!
Hub adapters, terrible design! You're asking way too much of two little bolts.
How am i supposed to pit the bolts in after getting the adapter on? The spacers arent short enough for the bolts and i dont know what the other 3 set of bolts are for what the fuck is this shit
My adapter doesn’t shut all the way there is a little gap after I screw down the 2 Allen bolts. It doesn’t close all the way around the hub but it’s tight and not moving .. not sure if I can leave it and go ahead and put the sprocket on now or what
They will have a gap. If it didn't, it wouldn't be tight on the hub